News: Tensions Unnerve South Serbia Villagers on Kosovo Border

January 15 - 28, 2010 Issue No. 31 www.prishtinainsight.com Free copy Top Ten FEATURE Prishtina Insight’s Destinations Review of the Year for 2010 With your diaries look- ing decidedly empty for the next 12 months, Prishtina Insight has compiled its top ten > page 7 destinations for 2010 in INSIDE PRISHTINA the region, ranging from must-see cultural The Ancient City of events to culinary Ulpiana extravaganzas. > page 11 Turn to page 8-9 NEIGHBOURHOOD for full story. ‘Cynical’ Politicians use Albania Floods to Score Points Road Goes Nowhere in > page 12

FOOD & DRINK Western Kosovo Wet your Whistle at Three isolated villages are still awaiting the ‘vital’ paved road that senior officials said would be completed more Filikaqa than 18 months ago. > page 10 while touring the site in June 2008 the road to a municipal waste always intended to be in two phas- By Fatos Halili and said the road would be inaugu- depot, creating a 3.3km-long route. es, although the initial tender was rated two weeks later. A second tender was issued in labeled “Zahaq to Sferke”. CITY road that was to connect Limaj, who visited the site with October 2009 to connect the com- “Not a cent has been misused in three villages in western Deputy Prime Minister Hajredin pleted section of the new road with projects that the ministry has EC Buys Comfy AKosovo, and was praised by Kuci, described the road as “vital Lutogllave, requiring a further invested in,” he maintained. Sofas and Swivel the Minister of Transport during for the inhabitants of this region of 2.3km of new asphalt. An official from the ministry of construction, has not been complet- the municipality of Peja”. The contract was awarded for transport later told BIRN that the Chairs for Ministry ed – after the minister pledged it But the Balkan Investigative 664,000 euro, well above the value of decision to divert the road to the would be finished by last summer. Reporting Network has discovered the initial contract. The route landfill site, instead of to the vil- > page 6 Minister Fatmir Limaj lauded the that the 4.4km-long road, costing between Lutogllave and Sferke lages of Lutogllave and Sferke, was construction of the route linking 244,000 euros, was never completed. remains unpaved in the meantime. made by Peja municipality. the villages of Zahaq, Lutogllave Indeed, Peja municipality decided Limaj told BIRN in an interview NGO FOCUS and Sferke in the Peja municipality to divert the completed section of last month that the scheme was continues on page 2 Igniting Business News Business Ideas – SPARK BIRN Probe Uncovers Holes in Foreign Investment Falls in Kosovo Kosovo Health Service for Second Year Medical staff in Kosovo’s state hospi- Foreign investment in Kosovo fell by tals are directing patients to their own 22 per cent in 2009 from 366 million euro private clinics for treatment even when in 2008 to 285 million euro. the services they need are available free While the government attributes the of charge in public institutions, an inves- decline to the global financial crisis, eco- tigation by the Balkan Investigative nomic experts maintain the drop is Reporting Network, BIRN, has revealed. nonetheless disturbing. This is just one of many problems that Gani Gerguri, vice-governor of the the probe... page 3 central bank... page 5 > page 14

is supported by: 2 • January 15 - 28, 2010 news Tensions Unnerve South Serbia Villagers on Kosovo Border

failing to tackle the huge eco- nomic problems that the region faces. By Nikola Lazic and “When people don’t have jobs Zoran Kosanovic or money to survive, some turn to extremism,” he said. “That is hose living near the fron- why the state must employ both tier with Kosovo have had Serbs and Albanians; it is one of T enough of constant ten- the prerequisites for calming sion and ‘incidents,’ which they tensions.” say are further depressing the In Bujanovac, he says, Serbs region’s prospects. need integrating into the struc- Villagers in southern Serbia, tures of the local authority, near the border between Serbia where ethnic Albanian parties and Kosovo, live in insecurity currently hold power. due to occasional incident at the Jonuz Musliu, speaker of the sensitive frontier. More and local assembly in Bujanovac, more are losing patience and also blames the authorities in leaving the region. Belgrade for the constant ten- Armed incidents do not hap- sion – but for completely differ- pen that often, but they still ent reasons. keep people awake at night at “The government is piling up least several times a year. The special forces here, which caus- region is also exposed to the es fear and panic among the problem of organised crime. Albanians,” he said. Locals are alarmed by the smug- “The curious thing, however, gling of people illegally crossing is that incidents still occur, the border, by smuggling and despite the large presence of illegal logging. armed forces,” added this for- The border zone remains a Kursumlija - Tensions remain on the border region between Kosovo and Serbia mer commander of the sensitive region. In 2000 and shooting from the Kosovo side The perpetrators and circum- goals. The danger of organised Liberation Army of Presevo, 2001 it was the scene of an Medvedja and Bujanovac. armed conflict between the secu- disturbed them that night. Some stances of the incidents have not crime should not be ignored, “The problems would be rity forces and local ethnic also claim searchlights were been revealed. Serbia’s either. solved if, instead of government Albanian militants in the pointed at their village, which President, Boris Tadic, and the “Individual incidents and acts forces, NATO took over control Liberation Army of Presevo, led some to head out to the out- Minister of Interior, Ivica Dacic, of sabotage can be expected, as of the border with Kosovo,” he Bujanovac and Medvedja. skirts with weapons. have described both incidents as they haven’t stopped since 2001,” maintained. The new Serbian army base is Neither KFOR command in terrorist acts. Krstic told Prishtina Insight. Meanwhile, people living in another source of disquiet. Kosovo nor the Serbian Army A criminal group accused of He says security along the bor- the border zone between Serbia Known as Jug, it officially registered any incidents, howev- trafficking people and narcotics der could be markedly improved and Kosovo remain hostage to opened last November near the er. The circumstances of the was subsequently arrested. But through closer cooperation the poor security situation. mainly Albanian town of case have still not been cleared there has been no official confir- between the Serbian army and Although he is 26, Luan Bujanovac. While Serbian offi- up. mation of a link between the police and NATO forces sta- Sadiku from Lucani still does cials insist the base will guaran- About 150 kilometres to the gang and the two crimes. tioned in Kosovo. not have a proper job. He tee peace and stability in the southeast, on the border near Interior Minister Dacic said Military analyst Aleksandar believes the poor security situa- region, ethnic Albanians remain Bujanovac, Luan Sadiku, 26, an this week during visit to special Radic defines the situation in tion in the area damages his opposed to its opening. ethnic Albanian from the village police forces in the village of South Serbia as “unpredictably economic prospects. Although experts and repre- of Lucani, says living with the Miratovac, near Medvedja, that stable”. He also says individual “No one will want to invest sentatives of the Serbian Army fear of armed incidents is frus- the security situation on the incidents should be expected, say southern Serbia is stable, trating. border remained stable but he but doubts they will be serious here until something changes,” people in the border villages, “My family and I cannot sleep also called on the government to enough to provoke a major reac- he said. “That is why we who both Serbs and Albanians, do peacefully because we are in invest more money in the region tion from the security forces. live here are the greatest not feel especially safe. constant fear of possible inci- in order to stop people from emi- Radic believes there would be hostages of such a situation.” Dragoslav Vasiljevic, from the dents,” says the young man, sit- grating. fewer incidents and less tension Dragoslav Vasiljevic from village of Rasevac, near ting with his friends in front of There was “still a lot of crimi- in the region if local Serbian Rasevac is determined to Kursumlija, says many of his the grocer’s in this entirely nal activity” in the border and Albanian leaders worked remain in his village until bet- neighbours have moved away Albanian village. region, Dacic added. “This better together. ter days come, although he because they don’t feel comfort- The area where Sadiku lives is means that there is illegal log- “The army and police cannot doubts that will happen any able close to the border. “Many one of the most sensitive border ging, stealing and smuggling, do much about preventing these time soon. have already moved out,” he areas. It has seen the highest and our [security] forces are incidents,” he said. “The key to “I have been living with this said, “and only around 50 have number of registered incidents. struggling to stop the flow of stability in the region is politi- tension for years, but I am remained in the village, but I Gunmen wounded two members terrorists from over the border.” cal agreement between Serbs standing firm by my decision to have nowhere else to go.” of the gendarmerie, the Serbian Retired general Ninoslav and Albanians.” stay in my home,” he said. “I Locals reported a shooting special police, in Lucani on July Krstic, commander of security Meanwhile, the local political was born here, I have nowhere incident near the dividing line 10 last year. forces in the conflict in south leaders of the Albanians and else to go.” on the night of January 4 to 5. Several days later, an explo- Serbia in 2000 and 2001, dismiss- Serbs say the greatest responsi- “As soon as I heard shooting sion in a building in the over- es the possibility of wider bility lies with the authorities Zoran Kosanovic is a journal- from the Kosovo side, I decided whelmingly Albanian border unrest in the region but says iso- in Belgrade. ist from Nis, and Nikola Lazic is to get my weapon,” said one vil- town of Presevo injured two peo- lated incidents should be expect- Stojanca Arsic, political a journalist from Bujovac. This lager who lives only a few hun- ple. A police investigation estab- ed. He claims the region suffers leader of the Serbs in article was published with the dred metres from the border. lished that an explosive device from the actions of politicians Bujanovac, thinks the state support of the British embassy Locals claim the sound of had been planted in the base- who see raising tensions as a should take responsiblity for in Belgrade as part of BIRN’s ment. means to realise their political the current tension because it is Training and Reporting Project. Road Goes Nowhere in Western Kosovo from page 1 the problems we have with the The average cost of building 1 charged by road building com- in Kosovo, adding that the regional landfill site,” he said. square metre of 3cm-thick panies in the European Union, Ministry of Transport needed to Osman Dinaj, director of pub- BIRN has also discovered that asphalt in Kosovo is 25 euro, which average 16 euros a square monitor the situation. lic services for the municipality, road building in Kosovo is gen- according to calculations based metre. The Kosovo government allo- defends the decision. “Our idea erally more expensive than it is on figures from the Association Dinaj confirmed to Prishtina cated a total budget of 45 mil- was to give priority to asphalt- in the EU and is often of worse of Kosovo builders. This is up to Insight that there were prob- lion euro for road building in ing the road to the landfill to fix quality. 66 per cent higher than the costs lems with the quality of asphalt 2009. news • January 15 - 28, 2010 3 BIRN Probe Uncovers Holes in Editor’s word Kosovo Health Service Borë Investigation sheds light on corrupt practice of doctors referring patients to their own clinics for treatment, emer- gency centres left unstaffed, broken equipment and unequal deployment of specialists. By Lawrence Marzouk

t’s often said, fallaciously, that Eskimos have 52 words for snow. By Petrit Collaku IBut Albanians have only one word, and it’s Borë. Recently, while northern Europe has edical staff in Kosovo’s been dealing, often very badly, with state hospitals are inches of the white stuff, Kosovo, and Mdirecting patients to the Balkans, have been tackling rising their own private clinics for water and mild temperatures. treatment even when the servic- In fact, the lack of snow in Brezovica es they need are available free of has made for one of the worst starts to charge in public institutions, an the ski season in 30 years. Conversely, investigation by the Balkan Scotland has had the best skiing condi- Investigative Reporting tions for 14 years. Network, BIRN, has revealed. With all this topsy turvy weather, we This is just one of many prob- have had some very topsy turvy conclu- lems that the probe uncovered sions about climate change. during 20 months spent monitor- And yes, notice the use of the term ing the state of Kosovo’s health ‘climate change’, rather than the out- service. dated ‘global warming’. According to the report by The Express newspaper in London BIRN, Raport i Monitorimit të went as far as to splash this headline Shëndetësisë, which was pub- across their front page: “Global warm- lished on December 25 and will ing? It’s the coldest winter in decades”. be published in English in the Unfortunately, this kind of crass near future, equipment is often

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit pseudo-scientific observation on the out of order, medical staff regu- Prishtina’s main hospital is overstaffed with specialists most serious challenge to face larly moonlight in their private humankind is not confined to down- clinics to top up their wages and anonymity, admitted receiving made only by those with a deep centre, Sadri Dervishaj, said market rags looking to fawn to their some hospitals lack specialist between 20 and 50 euro each time knowledge about services … by the ambulances were out of ignorant readership. doctors. he referred a patient for a CT those with more knowledge order because they were too The simple fact is that while one More than 400 interviewees scan. Another doctor at the same about the quality of these serv- old. It also emerged that there swallow doesn’t make a summer, one took part in the investigation, hospital admitted referring ices.” was no functioning phone in extraordinary weather event doesn’t which lasted from March 2008 to patients following their first The investigation uncovered the centre. make a very useful basis for judging the November 2009 and involved visit to his own clinic. that UCCK staff referred In response to BIRN’s ques- theory of climate change. monitoring health institutions A BIRN researcher in Ferizaj patients for CT scans that were tions, The Health Ministry said And we are all guilty of it to some across the country, including the saw doctors leaving the hospital usually unnecessary. it had spent 4 million euro on extent. Who hasn’t jumped into the cli- University Clinical Center of during working hours, still in Concern over the number of new equipment in 2009 and that mate change debate after a couple of Kosovo, UCCK, regional hospi- uniform, and going to their pri- patients being referred for scans at the UCCK more than 700,000 heavy downfalls or a scorching week- tals and family medical centres. vate clinics located a few metres was raised in an official letter euro had been used to buy a CT end? The collected data showed away from the hospital. that the Health Inspectorate and magnetic resonance equip- It is my humble opinion that we many doctors and nurses regu- One doctor was filmed defend- sent in August 2009 to the ment. should leave these kind of assessments larly begin work late and leave ing this practice. “The salary I Minister of Health, Alush Another problem in the to scientists who numbercrunch and early. The most serious case was receive is not sufficient to pro- Gashi, to the former director of health service that the investi- analyse reams of data, based on years observed in the emergency cen- vide for my family,” he said. the UCCK, Jusuf Ulaj, and to gation highlighted concerned of experience and study. tre in Peja on May 13, 2008. None “With the 240 euro I get [from the Halit Ymeri, director of the unequal deployment of special- I’m not saying that the ‘global warm- of the 24 staff was present there, government] my family would radiology centre. ist doctors. In interviews with ing’ naysayers should not muffled. except for the cleaner, for the have ended up on social assis- Based on an inspection made hospital staff, BIRN found that In fact, those messianic, myopic cli- whole day. tance”. in the radiology clinic, the let- many hospitals had few or no mate change campaigners annoy me The BIRN report says delays Speaking on BIRN’s weekly ter, which BIRN has seen, notes specialist doctors, while UCCK almost as much as those who refuse to in treatment often occur because TV show, Life in Kosovo, the that 80 per cent of CT scans did appeared to be overstaffed with consider the possibility that man is doctors’ work commitments con- newly appointed director of not uncover any medical prob- specialists. responsible for the warming of the flict with their appointments in Prishtina hospital, Ali Sadriu, lems. According to the Health Jusuf Ulaj, a former doctor at planet on the basis that it could mean their private clinics. said he could not change such Inspectorate, over-frequent use UCCK, said that 12 gynecolo- more expensive petrol for their gas-guz- Many interviewed patients behaviour overnight but his of scans incurred unnecessary gists had been selected for work zler. said that when they first went management would not tolerate expenses, and unnecessarily there, even though the clinic It is essential that all scientific theo- for a consultation in public it. exposed patients and staff to did not need so many. He ries are subjected to the most rigorous health institutions, doctors or “The law is the law,” he said. radiation. claimed the ministry had not tests and questioned thoroughly. other staff referred them to pri- “There is no excuse for anyone In August 2009, a patient at ascertained the real needs of But the damaging and stupid com- vate clinics that they or their not respecting working hours.” Peja hospital told the investiga- the hospital. ments made by those in influential colleagues or acquaintances Sadrui added that he was lobby- tion he had paid 100 euro for a Tefik Bekteshi, a cardiolo- positions, such as newspapers, on the owned. This happened even ing the government for more CT in a privately owned clinic gist, said that because of the basis of one weather event make my when the services they needed funds to improve the health sys- after a nurse told him the hospi- excess number of surgeons blood boil. were available for free in the tem in general. tal equipment was not working. employed at the UCCK, one sur- Which, incidentally, may come in public institutions. The BIRN investigation rec- However, the chief nurse in the geon carried out only about 40 useful when the temperatures drop, as According to the report, ommends that the Ministry of surgery unit, Shpresa surgical operations a year, expected, in Kosovo, back to the season- Raport i Monitorimit të Health regulate the employment Rexhbogaj, told BIRN that the which was a low workload. al average. Shëndetësisë: “Many patients of doctors both in the public and CT equipment had been The Health Ministry rejected It will snow again in Kosovo this win- claimed that they had been queu- private sector and raise doctors’ brought a month before and this criticism, however, saying ter, just as the UK will return to its ing for medical services because salaries to encourage them to was fully functional. that recruitment policy was defacto weather – drizzle. the doctors were late, or their stay in the state sector. Broken equipment was, how- “based on the requirements of Borë is a word you would have heard breaks were longer than Faik Hoti, spokesman for the ever, a serious problem – as our the hospitals, clinics and differ- Ministry of Health, said that the surprisingly rarely for this time of allowed, or because the doctors team of researchers discov- ent units. poor service apparently uncov- year, and probably one that will be were working at their private ered. In the gynecology clinic “Nobody sends staff to clin- ered by the probe reflected only uttered increasingly rarely in the clinic during regular working in Peja, we found the ultra- ics or hospitals if those clinics a perception on the part of the future. hours. sound machine had been out of do not require it,” the ministry BIRN researchers. But take the time to learn it, as you’ll “Many patients and their rela- order for more than a year, forc- said. “The ministry considers that need it for a good many years. And tives said they had been advised ing patients to seek private “There are more doctors and all this data on the poor services hopefully, if we can stop looking for by doctors in public health insti- health care. other medical staff at UCCK of medical staff are the percep- excuses and face up to the climate tutions to visit their private clin- At the emergency centre in because it is the only tertiary tions of BIRN monitors and of change challenge, we will be able to ics.” Peja, both ambulances were out centre [in Kosovo], so it is nor- part of the public,” he said. save the word and the snowcapped One doctor at UCCK, speaking of order. In an interview in mal that it should provide most “Such an assessment can be mountains for generations to come. to BIRN on condition of May 2008, the director of the medical services.” 4 • January 15 - 28, 2010 news Arrest in Tensions Raised Outside In over Serbian Hashim, Fatmir Kosovo Political Minister’s Curtailed – is that a Murder Probe Kosovo Visit chemical? ment decided to intervene only after the nature of his visit By Kreshnik Hoxha changed from private to political. By Bojana Barlovac The EU’s Special and Petrit Collaku Representative’s Office in y name is Zikomo Kilembe. Prishtina also said Bogdanovic Days ago I came across had not respected procedures Msome news from the Malawi erbian Prime Minister required for official visits. “There Broadcasting Corporation about Mirko Cvetkovic has con- are accepted principles and proce- this thing called Kosovo. Apparently Stacted German, British, dures between Belgrade, EU and we have recently recognised it as a French, Italian and US ambassa- Pristina for official visits and in country. dors to Serbia to convey his gov- this case those procedures were Where and what on earth is ernment’s outrage over Kosovo’s not respected,” spokeswoman Kosovo? Prishtina apparently is the decision to prevent Belgrade’s Julia Rueter said in a statement. capital. Albanians are the majority. Minister for Kosovo, Goran But the Serbian government Democratic or communist? I am not Bogdanovic, from entering claims it was a mindless move. “I sure. It seems like one of those Kosovo’s southern Serb enclave of would have understood this if I places that likes to be associated Strpce. had come to Strpce to disseminate with democracy but is actually far Kosovo police stopped hate speech, to provoke, to open from it. Bogdanovic and his team on the military objects… but I’ve sent a Keen to expand my knowledge on A spokeswoman said: “The arrest way from the village of Sevce to message of peace, as I always do,” this country,I religiously researched was ordered by a EULEX pre-trial the town of Strpce on Wednesday, Bogdanovic said, shortly after it. The BBC’s country profile calls it judge in connection to the so-called saying he cannot visit that area being turned back. an ‘impoverished territory’. So, it’s Bllaca case.” By Lawrence Marzouk without Prishtina’s permission. Cvetkovic told the ambassadors not real a country then? But, hang ‘Driton H.’ has been charged with He was then escorted to the that “such violations of human on, it has a Prime Minister and a participating in two attempted mur- Kosovo border. rights and freedom of movement’’ President. Hashim Thaci and Fatmir second man has been ders, one committed in November Kosovo’s government noted in Kosovo cannot be tolerated. Sejdiu – are these names of chemi- charged as part of an investi- 1999 in Prishtina, the second in June that Bogdanovic should have He asked the countries to cals? How do you even pronounce Agation into claims of post- 2000 in Ferizaj. these odd names? asked for Prishtina’s permission secure support from the EU Rule war political assassinations by an A DVD confession from Bllaca was prior to his visit, a position of Law Mission in Kosovo, Are these leaders as odd as their alleged former member of Kosovo’s made public by Gani Geci, parlia- backed by the EU Special EULEX, and NATO-led forces in names? Certainly the Prime unofficial secret service. mentarian for the opposition Representative in Kosovo, Pieter Kosovo, KFOR, to prevent such Minister must be a little odd and Nazim Bllaca, of Lipjan, rocked Democratic League of Dardania, in Feith. incidents in the future and to impulsive in delegating powers to the political establishment in November. Bllaca then held a press “This should not be interpreted increase their efforts to create his cabinet. Kosovo when he claimed to have conference about his crimes in front as a violation of freedom of move- decent living conditions in News from the web indicates that taken part in a series of political of parliament. ment because all Kosovo people Kosovo. his Deputy Prime Minister murders. He claimed to have worked from and visitors can move freely as The move comes amid growing announced the dissolution of the Bllaca has been under house 1999 to 2003 for Intelligence Service private people,” said Memli calls in Kosovo to clamp down on government one night and the next arrest since December 1, accused of of Kosovo, SHIK, which served the Krasniqi, the spokesperson for the so-called parallel structures, morning acted as if nothing had murder, attempted murder and Kosovo Liberation Army until the Kosovo’s government. that take their orders from happened. Very strange. organised crime. end of the conflict in Kosovo, and Pristina’s daily newspaper Belgrade, that have continued to This Thaci chap also boasts that On Tuesday, the EU rule of law which is seen as being most closely Express reported that Bogdanovic operate in Serb dominated parts his government is the most success- mission, EULEX, arrested another associated with the governing was followed by Kosovo police for of Kosovo after the country’s dec- ful in the region. My naïve opinion man suspected of having participat- Democratic Party of Kosovo, PDK, some days and the Kosovo govern- laration of independence. makes me think that this is slightly ed in two attempted murders. of Prime Minister Hashim Thaci. optimistic. SHIK claimed in June 2008 that it Fatmir Sejdiu is the President it had officially disbanded. seems, but I really do not under- During his time as agent Seiko, stand his political affiliations. Bllaca alleges he was involved in 17 I understand that he comes from a murders, attempted murders, beat- party that was in extreme rivalry www.prishtinainsight.com ings and other criminal acts. He said with Hashim’s party, but now forms that SHIK had told him the targets the coalition. Do these people lack Publisher: were members of the Serbian intelli- party ideals and vision or are they so BIRN gence service, UDB, but that he later eager to gain power that they are will- Balkan Investigative Reporting Network realised that some were just mem- ing to coalesce even with opponents? bers of the Democratic League of Strange country, strange place! Mensa e Studenteve, first floor Kosovo, which is currently in the Strange people too! How can you 10000, Prishtina government coalition with PDK. be the most optimistic country in Kosovo He listed a string of senior SHIK the world with such high rates of figures with whom he interacted Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 unemployment? Corruption seems and who are members of the govern- to be the job description for almost Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 ment or high-ranking PDK officials. every political position. [email protected] The PDK has dismissed the accu- I also discovered that MPs are cur- sations, branding them politically rently seeking 50 per cent pay rises Editor-in-Chief: motivated, and has called for a to make their monthly income near- Lawrence Marzouk speedy investigation into the matter. ly 1,500 euro. Why would you pay the [email protected] MPs that much when quite blatantly they seem incompetent in sorting Mauritania Recognises Kosovo’s Independence out Kosovo’s mess? That amount Editorial Team: seems to be rip off. Ana Petruseva, Arif Muharremi, to Kosovo’s foreign ministry, said: Recently, Foreign Minister “The Islamic republic of Skender Hyseni lobbied Arab and According to my research, paying Gordana Igric, Jeta Xharra, Marcus Mauritania has recognised Kosovo Islamic countries for recognition. electricity bills is also optional in Tanner, Petrit Collaku and Shengjyl By Petrit Collaku as independent and sovereign coun- Out of 57 member states of the the country, which seems very gen- Osmani try and decided to establish diplo- Organisation of the Islamic erous, and you can even choose matic ties at ambassadorial level.” Conference, just 15 have recognised which country to pay it to. The people accuse their politicians Marketing, Sales & Distribution: he Islamic republic of Kosovo unilaterally declared Kosovo’s statehood. of theft, but if the people are not pay- [email protected] Mauritania has recognised independence in February 2008 and TKosovo as an independent has so far been recognised by 65 out ing their bills does that not mean they are stealing from the state too? Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” and sovereign country,Kosovo’s for- of 192 member states of UN. eign ministry announced on Forty three countries have recog- Now, those in glass houses should Wednesday. nised Kosovo’s passports without surely not throw stones. Printing: Interpress R. Company The verbal note sent to Kosovo’s establishing diplomatic ties with What ever made us recognise this consulate in New York, addressed Prishtina. country? Copyright © BIRN business • January 15 - 28, 2010 5 Foreign Investment Falls in Kosovo for Second Year Government blames global financial crisis for sharp drop in foreign investment in 2009, but critics say much more could be done to encourage investors.

and a failure to combat corruption and organised crime. By Lavdim Hamidi “The model should be taken from Macedonia, or the Scandinavian countries, where they apply a so- oreign investment in Kosovo called tax holiday,” he said. “Land fell by 22 per cent in 2009 from should be given to businesses to F366 million euro in 2008 to 285 build factories, and loans should be million euro. available at more affordable rates.” While the government attributes Gerxhaliu added that the drop in the decline to the global financial foreign investment could also be crisis, economic experts maintain explained by the government’s fail- the drop is nonetheless disturbing. ure to award some “mega” tenders. Gani Gerguri, vice-governor of “Despite promises, the govern- the central bank, said that accord- ment failed in 2009 to select the ing to early estimates, direct foreign winners for the Kosova e Re power investment in Kosovo in 2009 plant and for construction of the amounted to 285 million euro, down Merdare-Vermica highway, tenders 81 million euro on the previous that would have raised significant year. In 2007, direct foreign invest- foreign investment,” Gerxhaliu ment reached 441 million euro. added. Gerguri said most of Kosovo’s The Minister of Economy and neighbours recorded similar Finance, Ahmet Shala, said declines, as potential investors investors were still very interested shied away from the Balkans while in Kosovo. He maintained that the attempting to weather the global

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit government had created a economic crisis. Kosovo’s economy in its first years as an indepedent country have been dominated by the global economic crisis favourable environment for foreign Albania is the only country in the investors but that Kosovo’s first Balkans to have seen double-digit Albania reached 460 million euro. government to issue low-interest Commerce, said the fact that 1,000 years of independence have been growth in foreign investment in Agim Shahini, chairman of the loans to businesses and work on businesses had gone bankrupt in overshadowed by a global economic recent years. According to a com- Kosovo Alliance for Business, removing all barriers to exporting 2009 demonstrated the country’s crisis. parative study by the Central Bank in the region. said the fall in foreign investment difficult economic environment. “The electricity supply has of Albania, the significant growth was worrisome, especially given the “Businesses that employ large Gerxhaliu cited several reasons improved enormously,” he said, in direct foreign investment in underdeveloped state of Kosovo’s number of employees should be for the decline in foreign invest- “and it is worth mentioning that in Albania has been the result of the economy. given a tax holiday for a certain ment in Kosovo, including monopo- order to attract foreign investors privatisation of large, state-owned He said the figures demonstrated period of time,” Shahini conclud- lies on basic products, the involve- and improve the business environ- companies and an improving busi- that “there is no climate for invest- ed. ment of politics in the economy, a ment we have reformed the tax sys- ness environment. In the first half ment in Kosovo” and a “lack devel- Safet Gerxhaliu, vice-president lack promotion of foreign invest- of 2009 alone foreign investments in tem and now we have the lowest opment strategy”. He called on the of the Kosovo Chamber of ment opportunities, tax evasion taxes in Europe.” Kosovo Fears Serbia Will Tighten Economic Squeeze Serbia’s chairing of free trade zone adds to the woes facing the country – though IMF takes a different view of its prospects in 2010 the crisis starting from the free the government should concen- trade agreement, CEFTA, starting trate on passing legislation that from the New Year, when the presi- would enable the country to even- dency is taken up by Serbia,” he tually sign a Stabilisation and By Besiana Xharra said. “In my opinion, Serbia will do Association Agreement, SAA, the everything to block Kosovo’s first step towards European Union combination of a blockade exports.” membership. Laws on public debt on exports, the withdrawal Shpend Ahmeti, director of the and on public-private partnerships Aof funds from commercial Institute for Advanced Studies, are two key pieces of legislation banks and the impact of the global GAP, says the economic crisis has that Kosovo needs to adopt to downturn on remittances are likely already arrived and will deepen this reach EU benchmarks. to worsen Kosovo’s business envi- year. “Many companies are close to The Kosovo government, howev- ronment and lead to a hike in bankruptcy and some have already er, maintains it will avert an eco- unemployment in 2010, experts pre- gone bankrupt,” he said. “Foreign nomic crisis with a series of pri- dict. investment has fallen and the gov- vatisations, including the sale of The first crisis Kosovo will have ernment has no concrete plan of Prishtina International Airport, to overcome is the likely impact of action.” the Kosovo Energy Corporation Serbia chairing the Central Hashim Rexhepi, director of the and Post Telecommunications of

European Free Trade Agreement, Photoby Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Central Bank of Kosovo, said the Kosovo. CEFTA. Currently, Serbia and Some economic experts expect a difficult year ahead for Kosovo’s economy withdrawal of many funds from “This year we will escape the Bosnia block imports from Kosovo ther reduce the flow of remittances above the sluggish growth levels commercial banks in 2009 may trig- crisis,” Ahmet Shala, Minister of that bear the hallmark of the coun- to Kosovo sent by members of the predicted for most of its neigh- ger a banking crisis. “Banks will Economy and Finance, said. “This try,and experts doubt this situation diaspora. This money accounts for bours. not now be able to lend as they did will happen with the privatisation will ease with Belgrade heading the up to 14 per cent of Kosovo’s econo- Economist Flamur Keqa said: before,” he said. “They will cer- of KEK, PTK and by granting the organisation from January 1, 2010. my. “The level of unemployment in tainly not lower interest rates and concession for the international The withdrawal from commer- While local economists suspect Kosovo will increase [in 2010], may raise them, so people will not airport.” cial banks of 200 million euro, these factors will lead to a deterio- which will worsen the social situa- be able to get loans if they want to The minister refused to say how invested by the public firm Post start businesses.” much money the government Telecommunications of Kosovo, ration of the already fragile econo- tion of the citizens of Kosovo”. He also doubted the government expected to raise through the PTK, is also predicted to tighten my,the IMF takes a different view.It Unemployment already stands at an would be able to secure loans from process, however. The govern- credit availability, according to the viewed Kosovo as the Balkans’ eye-watering 40 per cent. international financial institution ment’s budget priorities this year central bank. fastest growing economy in 2009, Besim Beqa, chair of the Kosovo this year, as it had planned. will be education, infrastructure, Meanwhile, the continued global predicting a 3.8 per cent growth Chamber of Commerce, also economic slump is expected to fur- rate. Moreover, it suggests GDP will believes the economic outlook for Agim Shahini, director of the health, private sector development expand by 4.3 per cent in 2010 – well 2010 will be bleak. “Kosovo will feel Kosovo Alliance for Business, said and agriculture, he added. 6 • January 15 - 28, 2010 city Laura Kullenberg… Senior Operations Officer at the World Bank office in Kosovo, Prishtina through the Eyes of: the Eyes through Prishtina Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit The new headquarters for the Ministry of Internal Affairs EC Buys Comfy Sofas and

Swivel Chairs for Ministry Laura Kullenberg he European Commission will ‘create adequate working not asked for the ECLO to fund the ECLO, said: “Out of many has revealed its latest conditions and increase the effi- the new building or the furni- projects, ECLO has assisted Tproject in the fight to ciency of the ministry’. ture. financially in reconstruction of What surprised you most about improve efficiency at Kosovo’s The exhaustive tender docu- He said: “We have submitted the new building for the Prishtina? Ministry of Internal Affairs – ments, which list details includ- five projects on the rule of law. Ministry of Internal Affairs. leather sofas and glass coffee ing the thickness of the foam in Four projects involved the min- “Part of this project is also The vitality, energy and friendliness of tables. the sofas, reveal that one lucky istry.” furnishing the new MIA build- the city. I was last here in the summer of The EC’s Liaison Office in employee of the MIA will quali- Regarding furnishing the ing with the aim to create ade- 1999 when the picture was very different, Kosovo has launched a tender to fy for an ‘executive office’ set, as new headquarters, Rexhepi quate working conditions. so it was heartwarming to see all the secure furniture for the MIA’s opposed to a ‘modular office’ set said: “The government proba- “This we hope will serve as changes. new office in Prishtina, also for other staff. This honour will bly could afford that but we had motivation for the staff and will funded by the EU. guarantee the member of staff no reason not to accept it.” contribute towards a reduction What’s your favourite hangout? This includes hundreds of an extra cupboard. He added that the police in staff turnover due to the low new chairs, leather sofas, coffee Fisnik Rexhepi, political would soon benefit from 3mil- payments in the civil service.” The bakery is half block from our tables, ‘executive’ office desks advisor to the Minister of lion euro from the ECLO for The new headquarters is office, so I can be spotted there through- and other essential items. Internal Affairs, told Prishtina new equipment. expected to open in imminently out the day, collecting another excellent The ECLO hopes the contract Insight that the ministry had Fjolla Ceku, spokeswoman at after some delays. macchiato and trying, usually unsuccess- fully, to avoid the delicious pastries. At the weekends I love Germia Park (and my dogs love it even more). ‘Worst Start’ to Ski Season in Do you do anything cultural? In my first week in Prishtina I went to 30 years the Roma film festival, which was great. What is the most annoying thing lack of snow. about Prishtina? But despite the delay to the ski season, the Woodland Hotel Poor air quality. By Shengjyl Osmani in Brezovica has reported a good start to the year. If you were mayor of Prishtina for Manager Labinot Vitija told the day, what would you change? nusually warm weather Prishtina Insight: “We have in the Balkans has led to had many visitors since open- One thing I would focus on is improv- Uone of the worst starts ing on December 25, and many ing the visual environment of the city, to the ski season in 30 years. alpinists have come to rest and particularly garbage collection. While northern Europe has have a holiday, even without been shivering in sub-zero tem- skiing, hiking around How many macchiatos do you drink peratures and contending with Brezovica.” a day? a thick blanket of snow, the The same snow conditions Balkans has seen torrential have also caused problems in See question two above. rain and relatively warm Mavrovo and Popova Sapka in weather. Macedonia. What’s the tastiest Kosovar food? Although Kosovo’s main ski But not all resorts have been

station, Brezovica, received a byPhoto Snow Njeri Brezovica has not received enough snow to start the ski season struggling this winter – The salads are great. I am still waiting covering of the white stuff in Scotland has the best snow to begin operating its lifts. It is the fifth time since 1980 to taste more local dishes. December, rising tempera- conditions for 14 years and the According to the Snow Njeri that Brezovica has not received tures, which have continued Swiss and French Alps have Association, which organises enough snow in December to What landmark do you use to tell into January, brought rain, received more than enough to skiing events in the Balkans open, forcing the start date taxi drivers where you live? washing away much of the start the season. and has recently opened a back. snow. It’s now hoped that snow snow park in Brezovica, this Arben Islami, who heads the I am “just above the President’s This has delayed to the start forecast for the weekend and winter has been one of the Snow Njeri Association, house”. to the ski season as Brezovica next week will allow the season worst in the last thirty years. blamed global warming for the has not received enough snow to kick off in Brezovica. feature • January 15 - 28, 2010 7

Prishtina Insight’s Review of the Year Shengjly Osmani and Visar Hapciu bring you the good, the bad and the ugly of 2009 January Kosovo opened 18 new ambassado- and The World Bank. The IMF agreed nomic crisis. paign, prepared by Saatchi and Kosovo’s president Fatmir Sejdiu rial posts including in France, to Kosovo’s request for membership Saatchi, aimed to lure foreign said that the country would hold local Germany, Italy, Czech Republic, with an absolute majority of 96 votes September investors to Kosovo and transform elections during the year, but parlia- Bulgaria, Sweden, Holland, Japan, out of 138. Plans for EULEX to sign a protocol the country’s reputation. mentary elections would probably Hungary,Croatia and Slovenia. UNMIK made preparations for at with Serbia’s Ministry of Interior Prishtina Jazz Festival was held, have to wait until 2010. The announce- least two more years in Kosovo, raised tensions in Kosovo. starting from November 1, in front of ment followed clashes between the April despite calls from the Kosovo The Vetevendosje movement over- sell-out crowds. government and opposition regard- The EU rule-of-law mission, Government to end its presence in the turned 25 EULEX vehicles in a park- On November 15, Kosovo went to ing elections, with the latter demand- EULEX, launched a tender to assem- country. The timeframe emerged in a ing lot in central Pristina. the polls for the first time since its tender from the United Nations ing polls as soon as possible and the ble an arsenal of surveillance equip- The demonstrators said the attack declaration of independence in ment – including bugging and track- Mission in Kosovo, which was order- was a response to EULEX’s plan to government resisting. February 2008. ing devices and night-vision tele- ing in two years of fuel. sign the protocol with Serbia. The agricultural sector was set as a Out of 36 municipalities, only 15 scopes for sniper operations. The Albania-Kosovo highway was Some 21 Vetevendosje activists priority for 2009. Kosovo’s govern- emerged with a mayor after the first Former UN envoy Martti Ahtisaari inaugurated by both Albanian PM were arrested by police and remand- ment announced a five-year plan to round of the elections. Isa Mustafa said he was optimistic that Moscow Sali Berisha, and Kosovo PM Hashim ed in custody for a month. EULEX develop the struggling sector, pledg- was re-elected as mayor of Prishtina would recognise Kosovo’s independ- Thaci. later signed the agreement. ing more money and development aid by the majority of voters. ence since relations between US and Kosovo President Fatmir Sejdiu Kosovo’s Trade deficit reached 900 for one of the backbones of the econ- Kosovo’s governing coalition col- Russia were thawing. announced the first local elections in million euro. Companies were being omy. lapsed and was reformed within 12 The man who devised the blueprint post-independence Kosovo for forced to register outside of Kosovo to hours. The dominant Democratic for Kosovo’s supervised independ- November 15. avoid the embargo imposed on prod- Party of Kosovo (PDK) decided to February ence told Voice of America that it ucts by Serbia and Bosnia and Delays in the appointment to key drop its coalition partners LDK dur- may take “some time in order for this July Herzegovina. posts were condemned, but the gov- ing a session at the Prishtina bar to happen”. Kosovo government announced a Zanzibar. ernment finally recruited a chief for tender for a 2,000 megawatt power October Bill Clinton’s statue was unveiled the Kosovo Intelligence Agency, plant to be built in the suburbs of Following Agim Zatriqi’s resigna- May in Kosovo with a visit from the for- formed the Security Council and Some 35 states had sent their com- Prishtina. tion from his position as the director mer president. attempted to choose an ments to the ICJ on Kosovo, it This energy deal was deemed cru- of RTK, questions were raised about Ombudsperson. emerged. Twenty-one countries had cial to Kosovo’s economic and ecolog- whether the public broadcaster On the first anniversary of the dec- sent their written declaration to the ical development by the highest rank- would be able to remain unbiased. December The second round of elections for laration of independence, Ramush International Court of Justice, ICJ, ing officials in the country. Although the reasons behind mayors of municipalities was held Haradinaj, leader of the opposition favouring Kosovo’s independence, But on the eve of the decision Zatriqi’s resignation remained Alliance for the Future of Kosovo, while thirteen backed Serbia’s stance. German company RWE withdrew unclear, a ‘leak’, which emerged from on December 13. claimed that Kosovo has a govern- The court opened the case in their bid for Kosova e Re and later in the office of ICO, was believed to have A total of 21 municipalities were ment that focuses more on its image December. the year the government was forced played a part in the decision. required to enter the mayoral run-off than on addressing key issues. The western Balkans braced itself to downgrade the grand plans to a Macedonia launched their official elections. for Swine Flu. Authorities increased 1,000 megawatt scheme in two phases. national encyclopaedia, sparking a After these elections, the Central March border controls and imposed other Some 307 Serb police officers fierce reaction from Albanians in the Election Committee (CEC) decided Kosovars denounced Milutinovic’s measures in order to prevent swine returned to their duties after over a region, especially those in that the elections in Prizren and ‘‘unjust’ acquittal. The UN war flu from spreading. year of protests following Kosovo’s Macedonia. Skopje was forced to Lipjan should be repeated due to crimes court in The Hague found five Joseph Biden, US Vice President, declaration of independence. withdraw the tome because of the irregularities. In addition, the vote senior Serb officials guilty of orches- visited Kosovo and was decorated derogatory references to Albanians. in Gjilan required a recount and the trating the murder,torture and depor- with the Medal of Liberty for his con- August The election campaign officially final decision after this recount is tation of ethnic Albanians in Kosovo, tribution towards securing the coun- Kosovo’s government revealed opened on October 15, even though still to be made. but acquitted the former Serbian try’s independence. “I want to thank negotiations with the UK and Norway some political parties decided to Kosovo government finished 2009 president Milan Milutinovic. you for one of the greatest honors in to extradite two men, suspects in a ignore the deadline. with a surplus of 165 million euro, up He was cleared on the grounds that my career, the Medal of Liberty,’’ fraud case involving PTK, Post from 74 million euro in 2008. he was largely a figurehead during claimed Biden. Telecommunications of Kosovo. November And Nazim Bllaca became a house- the conflict in Kosovo, while real Kosovo’s Central Bank revealed An international campaign aimed hold name after his public claims of power remained in the hands of June that remittances from the diaspora at improving Kosovo’s image started having committed murder as a mem- Slobodan Milosevic, the then presi- Kosovo became a member of the had fallen significantly during the with the slogan “Kosovo – the young ber of Kosovo’s Intelligence Agency dent of Yugoslavia. International Monetary Fund, IMF, first half of 2009 due to the global eco- Europeans”. The 6 million euro cam- (SHIK). 8 • January 15 - 28, 2010 By Lawrence Marzouk Guide and Shengjyl Osmani Top Ten Destinations

With your diaries looking decidedly empty for the next 12 months, Prishtina Insight has compiled its top ten destinations in the region for 2010, ranging from must-see cultural events to culinary extravaganzas.

Istanbul, European City of Culture 2010

ou hardly need new reasons to put Louvre and the Hermitage. Istanbul on your must see list with its A series of concerts called Music of Ybuzzing nightlife and stunning histo- Istanbul Architecture will bring perform- ry, but 2010 presents one. ances to some of Istanbul’s most glorious The Turkish metropolis is this year’s settings, including the 19th-century European City of Culture, and has lined up Dolmabahce Palace, on the shores of the an impressive programme of events. Bosporus, and the Aynalkavak Pavilion, Exhibitions held to mark the accolade part of an 18th-century palace on the include the Treasures of Kremlin Palace, Golden Horn. The 50th Guca Trumpet Festival, Serbia which will look at the Russia and the Among a host of dance events, the Ottoman empires’ relationship during the Istanbul International Ballet Competition he Guca Trumpet Festival attracts Golden Trumpet award, but make-shift bars 16th and 17th centuries at the stunning, and from July 5 to July 10 stands out. 600,000 visitors from across the world and restaurants also spring up across town to recently renovated, Topkapi Palace. With cheap and fast flights from Pristhina Teach year, drawn to the small town in host musicians and heavy drinking sessions. From Byzantium to Istanbul will explore to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines, you western Serbia to listen to some of the best The weekend is a raucous affair of copious the history of the Byzantine empire would be mad to miss the festivities. Balkan music in the region. food and drink and is one of the best places through treasures from major Turkish In 2010, the event reaches the grand old in region to catch Balkan music. museums and also institutions such as the For more information visit age of 50 and will be held between August 13 British Museum, Vatican Museums, the www.en.istanbul2010.org. and August 22. For more information visit Fifty brass bands compete each year for the www.guca.rs. Ohrid Summer Festival

he 49th edition of the Ohrid Summer Festival will be held in Tthe UNESCO heritage city this year. The event, which focuses on interna- tional classical music and theatre, is widely seen as the best festival in Macedonia, hosting renowned artists from all over the world. One of the special attractions of this festival is the performance spaces, such as the Church of St Sophia. Ohrid’s Antique Theatre will also be used during the festival. Rafting on the Tara River he canyon of the Tara River is one of the most beautiful areas of one the Balkans’ Tmost beautiful countries, Montenegro. And the river, which runs through the second deepest canyon in the world, after the Grand Canyon in America, also provides great whitewa- ter rafting. You won’t find ranging torrents of water here, so extreme sports enthusiast be warned, but you will discover a stunning landscape, experience tranquility, and possibly spot an otter or two as you glide along the Tara. Along the route expect to see the ruins of water-mills, monasteries, shepherds and young fawns, drinking water from the water’s edge. The Tara recently gained ‘Mark 4’ status, which places it up with the best rafting rivers in the world – Colorado in the USA which gained Mark Prishtina’s Jazz Festival 2010 5. You can enjoy the beauty of the Tara by raft rishtina’s Jazz Festival is held Organisers hope to expand the from May, when the river is swollen with melting in November each year and number of venues for 2010, offering snow and at its fastest. Passembles an impressive line- an even wider variety of jazz to afi- The Tara runs through Durmitor National up of top musicians from across the cionados and amateurs alike. Park, which is a wonderful place for hiking if world. Make sure you clear your diary water-based activities are not to your taste. The 2009 event was a roaring suc- for this week-long event if you want cess, attracting sell-out crowds to to experience cool Prishtina at its For more information visit almost every performance. best. www.visit-montenegro.com. • January 15 - 28, 2010 9 Guide for 2010

Albania’s Picture Postcard Beaches

ith the opening of the ‘patriotic The dirt track which brings you off the highway’ last summer, travel times ‘main road’ between Vlora and Saranda has Wfrom Kosovo to Albania’s pristine been asphalted and Drymades Beach Resort, and tranquil southern coast have been which offers comfortable chalets within slashed. earshot of the sea, has expanded, which The beautiful stretch of sand around the should go some way to tackling the difficul- small seaside town of Dhermi, 50km south of ties of booking a room. Vlora, is attracting a lot of international Opposite the chalets is one of the most laid attention, featuring in such august publica- back and relaxing bars you’ll find anywhere tions as The Observer of London and receiv- on the planet. You can enjoy a morning coffee ing positive reviews in the Lonely Planet. before taking a few strides and dipping into All this means that the secret is out, and the the warm sea, while away the afternoon play- throngs of Kosovars and Albanians who ing chess, or sip sublime cocktails as the suns already flock to this part of the world for sum- sets. mer relaxation are being joined by increasing The best time of year to visit is June or numbers of people from Western Europe. early July, when the sea is at its cleanest and Possibly the best place to soak up the sun, beaches still quiet. sink a beer and enjoy the impossibly turquoise sea is Drymades beach, just north Rooms at Drymades Beach Resort are 40 to Kokino, Macedonia of Dhermi. 50 euro with breakfast. Booking is advisable he world’s fourth oldest observatory, The site was discovered in 2001 by archeolo- Here you’ll find one hotel and a smattering in the summer and can be made by calling Kokino, is a lonely but beautiful place at gist Jovica Stankovski from the National of restaurants and bars. Tani on +355693646058. Tmost times of year. Museum of Kumanovo. But at dawn on June 21, the day of the sum- He uncovered two stone thrones crafted into mer solstice, it buzzes with activity as people the rock and positioned in the north-south gather to watch the sun rise through the mark- direction to face the rising sun in the east. ers in the rocks, designed thousands of years In 2002, physicist Gjore Cenev from the ago. Planetarium in Skopje joined the exploratory On a lofty peak, high above the strategically team and noted that seven markers had been important plain, which runs through Serbia made in vertical rocks and had been used for and Macedonia, is Kokino. defining the positions of the rising Sun and If the awe-inspiring view is not enough to Moon. tempt you to this lonely outcrop, the incredible Artifacts dating back 3800 years old have history of Macedonia’s Stonehenge should be. been found on the hill, which has been nomi- Kokino has been ranked as one of the most nated to become a UNESCO heritage site. important, and oldest, observatories in the For more information visit world by,none other than, space agency NASA. www.mymacedonia.net/kokino. Dokufest, Prizren

okufest, the International Documentary and Short Film Festival, is the largest film event in Kosovo Dand is another must-see in the country’s cultural calendar. Set against the backdrop of the picturesque and his- toric town of Prizren, the festival attracts numerous international and regional filmmakers and thousands of visitors, looking to catch a documentary or two and enjoy the party vibe. Truffles Festival in Istria, Croatia The festival is held in August, taking full advantage of the warm Kosovo nights and days to screen films in the he truffle – that exclusive, illusive open air, including one cinema which is assembled over fungus – is often dubbed black gold. Prizren’s river. TIt’s also the centre of attention at a On top of the films, the festival is also well known for yearly festival in the beautiful Istria lively nights after the screenings. Various events are held region of Croatia. within the scope of the festival, including workshops, The festival, held in October and DokuPhoto exhibitions, festival camping and concerts. November, has its own majestic, and sometimes bizarre, way of celebrating this much sought after delicacy. Exit Festival, Serbia: The most admired truffles is the white variety, Tuber Magnatum Pico, and is Four Days, 500 Performers and 200,000 Revellers found in abundance in Istria, around the he annual EXIT festival in Novi Sad, on the ticket price. town of Livade. Serbia, has become one of the most Details of this year’s line-up have yet to be Events organised include decadent truf- Tpopular of its kind in Europe, with the released, but judging from recent years, it’s fle and champagne evenings and an oppor- number of foreign visitors, notably from likely to be crampacked with some of the tunity to join a truffle hunt. Britain, growing every year. hottest names of the moment. A truffles weekend is planned for the The Petrovaradin fortress, overlooking the For more information visit town of Buzet on November 7 and 8, when Danube, last year welcomed 200,000 people for http://eng.exitfest.org for more information. an exhibition and market in honour of the another extravaganza of top artists, includ- fungus awaits you. ing Prodigy and Lily Allen. A giant truffle omelet, made of 2010 Novi Sad, a beautiful town at any time, real- eggs in one enormous, 2.5-metre wide pan, ly comes to life during the EXIT weekend and will be the centerpiece of the festival. is a must-see for pop, rock and electronic music lovers. For more information visit Buy your ticket for the July festival early www.istria-gourmet.com and receive a heft discount of almost 20euro • January 15 - 28, 2010 10 Food & Drink Wet your Whistle at Filikaqa Cheap prices and ample portions mean even the most budget conscious diners can let loose at this sports bar.

evening, a few of us couldn’t help and herbed, topped with crispy The chicken burger also sparked The menu lends a but be distracted by the personal pieces of homemade-style local rave reviews and ‘à la McChicken’ flat screen television conveniently sausage that are full of flavour. The comparisons’, albeit a much fresh- hand in rousing a By Maneater in Prishtina placed at the head of our booth. chicken wings are also tasty, er interpretation of the fast-food Despite slightly deflated conversa- thanks to their spicy chilly sauce. classic. sports arena tion, our appreciation for HDTV Nevertheless, what we hoped to technology skyrocketed as our table be the most distinctive part of the atmosphere – ometimes, even the thriftiest mimicked a VIP stadium lounge. platter – the cheese and ham potato with spicy chicken of people crave a slice of The menu lends a hand in rous- skins – didn’t live up to expecta- Soverindulgence, and at ing a sports arena atmosphere – tions. The snippets of potato gave wings, beef Filikaqa, which means “whistle” with spicy chicken wings, beef the impression of having been pre- in Albanian, that can translate into nachos, cheese-stuffed pizza, fried pared earlier and the cheese nachos, cheese- a cheap night of watching a game chicken, burgers and fries. At first seemed to have cooled to its origi- stuffed pizza, on over a dozen HDTV screens, glance, the picture menu looks lots nal state. guzzling down a metre of beer, or more up-market than your stan- As far as Filikaqa burgers are fried chicken, devouring enough fries to feed a dard Route 66 menu, even though concerned, forget the usual third-grade classroom. this one doesn’t price anything at pleskavica sandwich affair on offer burgers and fries. This sports bar doesn’t play with over 5 euro. Cheap prices just in most places in town. These pup- We were all far too stuffed after small portions or mediocre-resolu- meant larger orders for our group. pies are remarkably authentic, and the food and “a metre of beer” – six At first glance, the tion television. The only thing that Party Nachos prices at 4.95 euro by authentic I mean Western fast- half-litre glasses priced at 7.50 euro picture menu is small in terms of quantity at will surely fill up the four people food-franchise delectable. – even to consider dessert. I’ll leave this spot is the price tag, and we’re the menu indicates it will. Doritos The Hat-trick burger, at 3.45 molten lava cake and cheesecake to looks lots more all better off for it. chips topped with heaps of tangy euro, can best be described as a Big the rest of you to investigate. Thankfully, there is enough melted cheese, pan-fried ground- Mac replica in appearance, roping Liverpool won that night, and so up-market than space to accommodate large beef and jalepeno peppers arrived in a three-piece bun and double did Filikaqa’s proprietors as crowds and still maintain enough within minutes of ordering. Feel beef patty together with sliced orders flew out of the kitchen. your standard legroom and breathing space free to ask for sides of additional pickle, melted cheese and Mac-like Stay tuned for special events Route 66 menu, between rival supporters, or those sour cream or salsa for this option; sauce. Mercifully missing was such as karaoke and comedy wanting to watch different games, you’ll need them. overcooked processed meat, card- nights. Reservations are recom- even though this whether it is a Liverpool match, The Triple Platter, at 3.95 euro, is board lettuce and a side of oil- mended. NFL game, or cycling race. a touch more exciting, with a selec- drenched fries. All our table one doesn’t price Although my companions and I tion of individual dishes crammed agreed: this burger definitely gives 038 244 288 were just eyeing some classic into one group-oriented option. the Golden Arches a run for its Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku BL 4/1 anything at over American sports bar chow that Pizza sticks are freshly baked money. www.filikaqa.com 5 euro. By Shega A’Mula • January 15 - 28, 2010 11 in Prishtina Inside Prishtina Building Review: Shop Review: The Ancient City of Ulpiana Faceology emnants of the Roman empire lie just 7 kilometres south east of Prishtina at Rthe Ulpiana excavation site, located in a field near the town of Gracanica. The ancient city is believed to date back to the first century AD and thrived during Roman occupation and the early Byzantine period. At that time, the territories of Serbia, Kosovo, and portions of Macedonia and Bulgaria were known as the Roman province of ‘Moesia Superior’, and Ulpiana Nature gives you the face you have at 20, was one of the main hubs of political, cul- but it is up to you to merit the face you have tural and economic life. “at 50,” is the moto of choice at Faceology, Stone, marble and brick constructions, an upscale beauty spa which has been offering such as walls, rooms and sections of a ceme- advanced skincare solutions to young and tery, can be seen at the site today. A few mature faces for more than a year now. stones are engraved with Roman scripture. New York city educated esthetician Agnesa The site was given the status of interna-

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Ziba-Bicaj heads the clinic, incorporating her tional importance in 2006, after UNMIK pub- The Roman remains are unmarked and unprotected belief in non-surgical treatments and a thor- lished a preliminary technical assessment of ough cleansing regime. Her treatments feature the area. to Kosovo’s Ministry of Youth, Culture and among the archaeological discoveries. Biologique Recherché, a range of professional Significant damage of the archaeological Sport. Plastic tarps held down by stones cover Parisian products containing high concentra- discoveries were also noted, such as semi- Burbuqe Deva, head of the cultural her- some artifacts, while water floods other tions of active ingredients, and no artificial destruction of buildings and excavated itage division at the ministry, told Prishtina areas. ingredients. walls, growth of vegetation, and climate Insight that the ministry has assigned Enver Rexha, director of the Kosovo Agnesa’s believes in the brand’s power to damage from water and humidity. 300,000 euro to Kosovo’s Archaeology Archaeology Institute and project leader, deliver results quickly. More than 50 face Inappropriate human intervention has Institute which has devised a three-year told Prishtina Insight that excavation creams and 30 tonics are available, which allow also been blamed for the poor state of project to expand the archaeological study, efforts will be made periodically through her to create a customised skincare regime for Ulpiana. Because of the lack of protection, conservation and protection of the Roman the three-year period in cooperation with any condition – dry skin, oily skin, enlarged which lasted many years, many valuable ruins. The amount is significantly less than the German Archaeological Institute, pores, hyper pigmentation, acne and signs of artifacts have been stolen. Garbage is also UNMIK’s projections, and the project did not which began geophysical studies of the aging. scattered throughout the site. begin until 2009. ancient city in 2008, and will continue to Facials, costing from 30 euro, are also The UNMIK assessment estimated that a A visit to the site doesn’t suggest any offer technical and financial support in designed to meet your skin’s needs. Other opi- total of 800,000 euro was needed to carry out improvements. Protection is non-existent, as years to come. tions include oxygen masks to rid the epider- appropriate excavation, restoration and con- anyone can access the area and walk freely “We do not have adequate tools to conduct mis of harmful Prishtina pollutants and lifting servation on the site. That job was entrusted geophysical studies of Ulpiana. The German techniques to turn maturing skin into taut archaeologists have completed 24 hectares of splendor, without going under the knife. 1 to 1.5 metre underground recordings of the Nail care at Faceology is completed with OPI area, and will be returning in February to products, which are known worldwide for their continue excavations,” he said. quality, and a rare find anywhere in the city. A However, he admits that the infrastruc- coat and simple manicure is only 4 euro, while ture desperately needs to be improved in the nail extensions and pedicures are slightly more. area. Body treatments are also available, from rea- In fact, no sources of electricity are found sonably priced waxing options (based on other near the site. A newly paved road running spa prices), to anti-cellulite, restructuring, from Gracanica to the other mainly Serb firming, lifting rehydrating, massages and ther- populated town of Cagllavica is located apies. about 100 metres away, but a road leading to So tackle all those holiday party derivatives, the excavations does not exist. which I’m sure have caused havoc with your Rexha explained that the three-year proj- skin, with quality solutions that will not dent ect is actually part of a longer five-year plan your wallet. to turn the site into a tourism area. Besides, Agnesa’s bubbly persona will com- Ulpiana is also believed to be the former bat your frown lines, while a good rubdown will capital of the Dardania, a region some histo- have you leaving with a smile. rians believe to be the land of the ancient 038 222 945 Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Illyrians, which, again, are believed to be Ruins of the ancient city of Ulpiana ancestors of the Albanian people. Rr. Fehmi Agani 27/3 Bar Review: UnderGrand The back entrance to Prishtina’s Grand Hotel The area is far from spacious, but clean-cut and has recently been released from the grasps of easy on the eye. UNMIK and is now undergoing a revival of A few tables occupy the floor space, a standard sorts, beginning with the opening of UnderGrand bar runs along the back wall, and a DJ booth fills Bar, which will be the first of many in the next up another nook. Poster art hangs around the couple of months. room, apart from where there is a long, built-in Before the war, this area, located directly across aquarium. These two elements and the various from the Youth and Sports Palace, was a trendy bottles of spirits add colour to the otherwise very shopping precinct frequented by all city dwellers. neutral backdrop. Now, many big names have acquired space in As far as the crowd is concerned, UnderGrand’s the area, suggesting the development of a new manager labels it as the close-knit Spray Club gen- café/shop district for the capital. eration, which used to gather at the club during its Undergrand is your classic Prishtina bar – years of weekly events. But don’t feel left out – this serves coffee by day, mixes drinks by night – but is a group of forthcoming and open-minded peo- incorporates a healthy approach to service and ple. ambience. The music, for one, is ultra-chill, incor- So feel free to mingle, request a song, or play a

porating indie sounds by day, with slightly more round of PS3 on the flat screen television located byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit progressive electronic beats by night. at the bar. UnderGrand has replaced UNMIK in central Prishtina 12 • January 15 - 28, 2010 neighbourhood

Serbia Split on Srebrenica ‘Cynical’ Politicians use Albania Declaration olitical parties in Serbia’s par- liament agree it is necessary to Pcondemn the crimes committed Floods to Score Points during the wars in the former Yugoslavia, but disagree whether a With floodwaters covering most of northern Albania, both government and opposition are competing to make politi- in Brief News declaration on the Srebrenica mas- cal gains from the disaster. sacre should be adopted. On Saturday, President Boris Tadic right fill the news, echoing politi- launched an initiative for the Serbian cal reactions to past disasters, parliament to prepare and adopt a local commentators said they resolution condemning the doubted the horse-trading would Srebrenica massacre, stressing that By Besar Likmeta result in reforms that prepared the Serbia has an obligation to the Hague country better for future calami- based UN Tribunal to undertake such ties. a measure. he northern Albanian city Gjergj Erebara, a business edi- Srebrenica has become a byword of Shkodra could as well tor with the Tirana daily Shqip, for genocide and a symbol of the hor- Thave been Venice last week said the government had rushed to ror of Bosnia’s 1992-95 war. as flood waters, boosted by weeks define the floods as “extraordi- Around 8,000 Bosniak (Bosnian of heavy rainfall and melting nary” partly in order to escape any Muslim) men and boys were executed snow, cut it off from the rest of the responsibility. “Howeve the oppo- by Bosnian Serb forces after they country, making it reachable only sition’s accusations make an objec- overran the UN-protected enclave in by emergency boat. tive analysis or investigation [of July 1995. However, while thousands of events] less likely to happen,” A flooded mosque in nothern Albania But while parliamentarians tend to people were being evacuated as the Erebara added. communities don’t have access to Berisha’s assessment of the gov- agree that a resolution should be country struggled to control its The opposition and the govern- adopted, many object to singling out worst flooding in nearly half a cen- drinking water. The damage done ernment’s response but said the ment have been locked in a harsh Srebrenica, noting that crimes were tury, the politicians were busy to agriculture and transport infra- premier and his “corrupt” govern- exchange and personal jibes since committed elsewhere too. sorting out whether divine wrath structure has been considerable. ment were to blame for the flood- Berisha narrowly won the June 28 A member of the Tadic’s or man’s vice was to blame. Several EU countries, Moldova ing in the first place. parliamentary elections last year. Democratic Party, DS, Nada Although political squabbles and neighbouring Kosovo, have “Northern Albania is not being The Socialist claim they only lost Kolundzija, told Balkan Insight that it over manmade or natural disas- responded to Tirana’s call for help flooded by God, but [as a result of] the election as a result of fraud. is necessary to condemn all war ters have become a staple of by sending boats, electricity gener- the bad governance and corrup- In the current poisoned political crimes, including the one in Albanian politics, local observers ators, water pumps, food, medi- tion of this government, which is climate, there seems little hope Srebrenica. “DS has always had a note that these squabbles seldom cine, tents and other aid. leading the country from catastro- that the floods will be assessed by clear stance that the perpetators of produce reforms or regulatory Prime Minister Sali Berisha phe to catastrophe,” Rama told an impartial review. Even worse, all committed crimes should be changes to avert them in the said the authorities had averted a reporters in Shkodra. analysts believe the disaster will brought before justice and punished,” future. potential human catastrophe Rama lambasted “the triumph only feed the propaganda she said. According to the national emer- while facing what he called the of greed, incompetence and cor- machines of both big parties. The position is supported by other gency task force, set up to deal ‘flood of the century’. ruption, which has turned dams in “The main problems with such parties in parliament, including G17 with the situation, nearly 5,000 “The Ministry of Energy and a source of illegal profits for politi- events, which have huge costs to Plus, but the Serbian Radical Party, people have been evacuated from the Albanian Power Corporation cians”. ordinary people, is that they do not SRS, member Dragan Todorovic told their homes and 2,500 homes have have done a wonderful and effi- The Socialist Party has called lead to any lasting reforms or to Balkan Insight that this is another been flooded by rising waters in cient job, facing an extraordinary for the indictment of Berisha and actions that would avert them in wrong move by the president. the Shkodra district, north of the situation with exemplary compe- the Minister of Economy, Trade the future,” said Ervin Qafmolla, The spokesperson of the capital, Tirana, and close to tency,” Berisha said, speaking in and Energy Dritan Prifti policy director with the local civic Democratic Party of Serbia, DSS, Montenegro. the flooded village of Kuc. “This Berisha’s Democratic Party on group Mjaft. Andreja Mladenovic, said his party A total of 10,400 hectares of kind of flooding is rare, occurring the other hand has hit back at “Politicians cynically use as supports the adoption of a document farmland is flooded and 9,830 live- less than once in a century,” he Rama, accusing him of slander political capital and for propagan- that will condemn all crimes commit- stock are at risk. Because of seri- added. and of using the country’s suffer- da purposes the same natural or ted in the former Yugoslavia, not only ous damage to the water supply The Socialist opposition leader, ing to score political points. manmade catastrophes that they Srebrenica one. system, many homes in flooded Edi Rama, not only did not share As accusations from left and failed to avert,” he added. Serbia’s parliament has not yet received any official initiative to adopt such a resolution. According to daily Politika, Tadic’s initiative has Josipovic Claims Landslide secured the support of 121 parliamen- tarians belonging to the ruling coali- tion and the opposition Liberal Democratic Party. However, this is Victory in Croatian Elections not enough for the resolution to pass in parliament which has 250 seats. ernment in implementing reforms aimed at making Croatia “compat- Thousands Lend Support ible with the European Union”. Although the president’s power to Bosnia Postal Thief By Sabina Niksic in Croatia is largely ceremonial, he has strong influence over foreign n less than 24 hours, nearly 2,800 vo Josipovic, the candidate policy and is also the commander Bosnians have joined a group on fielded by the leftist opposition of the armed forces. Ithe social networking site ISocial Democratic Party, SDP, The post also holds high moral Facebook set up to offer support to a claimed a landslide victory on authority and Josipovic already postman who stole cash intended for Sunday in Croatia’s presidential pledged to support the anti-corrup- pensions to satisfy his thirst for gam- elections, seen as a referendum on tion drive launched by the govern- bling. his pledge to strongly support the ment in July. The postman identified as Benjamin fight against rampant corruption The government campaign had S. stole some 22,000 euro worth of pen- and lead the country into the already resulted in the arrest of sion payments before being discovered European Union. Josipovic sealed victory with his anti-corruption mandate more than a dozen officials and by the internal control of the Bosnian After nearly all votes had been high-level investigations into a Post Office, BH Post. counted late on Sunday, Croatia’s ly after midnight. 1991, is almost certain to lead the number of state owned companies. He reportedly used the stolen electoral commission announced “We all want a country where country into the European Union During the pre-election cam- money in a betting shop in the that Josipovic had won 60.3 per work is paid for and crime is pun- by 2012. paign, Josipovic’s contender Milan Sarajevo suburb of Vogosca. cent of the vote compared to 39.7 ished… we will win the fight He will replace veteran reformer Bandic was exposed to particularly “All the betting shop goers are with per cent secured by the populist against the economic crisis, the Stjepan Mesic, whose second five- harsh media criticism over his you,” reads the Bosnian group header mayor of Zagreb Miland Bandic fight against corruption and crime, year term expires on February 18. alleged nepotism and corruption. on Facebook. Most members were who competed as an independent the fight against poverty and mis- “This was a victory of democra- Bandic was kicked out of SDP voicing their support to the postal candidate. ery,” the jurist and classical music cy, a victory of European Croatia,” after deciding to run for the presi- thief, but some joined the group to “This victory is not only mine… composer added. “Croatia will be Mesic said. dency, thereby ignoring the party’s express their outrage at its formation. all citizens of this country have one of the shining stars on the Mesic added that the key chal- choice of candidate. The thief himself has allegedly won because we all want a better European sky.” lenges facing his successor will After losing the election, he said posted a message on the group’s wall Croatia with more justice,” Josipovic who will be Croatia’s include further improvement of he will “return to work” as Zagreb to apologise to pensioners and say that Josipovic said after preliminary third president since its independ- relationships with neighbouring mayor and voiced satisfaction with “things should not have ended this results had been announced short- ence from former Yugoslavia in countries and supporting the gov- the support he won. way”. opinion • January 15 - 28, 2010 13 My Part in Ceaucescu’s Dear Teta Mia...

Downfall Teta Mia solves your problems

found out, or simply guessed, Romanian translator who had I’m thinking of getting a tattoo but I’m not sure what it what hotel I was in and had been sitting in the back. should be. Any ideas? rung and got through to the Without warning, some By Marcus Tanner reception. sniper had shot a bullet at the Fashion victim, Prishtina A dastardly French journal- car, and it went into the trans- ist, lying nearer than me to the lator’s head on one side and A tattoo, eh? The painfully short fringe, diamante sparkle receptionist, had claimed the out the other. on your front tooth, high heels to die for (on Prishtina’s pave- From 1988 to ’ll always remember the telephone call was for him, We all stared at the neat hole ments) and purple Mini Cooper not enough to mark you out Romanian revolution insisting he was from The that bullet had made in the from the crowd? I think I can help... 1994, Marcus Ibecause it’s the only time Independent. backseat window, and at the Of course, it rather depends on your interests, but let’s look Tanner was in my life I felt like royalty. It was only after I overheard equally neat hole it had made at some symbols you may want to demonstrate your rever- We’d been waiting on the him in his bad English trying in her head. She simply looked ence towards on your right shoulder or left hip, and some you The Yugoslav border, near to persuade the person on the asleep, as in a trance. I had to may not. Independent's Timisaoara, for days, as soon other end of the line to put leave them to it. First, the traditional arrow through a heart to depict the as the first news broke on the him through to a number in In the square outside the steadfastness of your love for someone. Now (and assuming Balkan corre- BBC about “disturbances” in Paris that I suddenly got suspi- Hotel Athenee palace, I you have such a beau), this is both risky and unbearably the city. cious, just grabbed the phone trudged around, watching spondent, tacky. Either you or your amour-propre may change your But the border guards off him and found it was the tanks lowering and raising mind, and then not only will you have to go through the heart- covering the wouldn’t let us journalists Independent foreign desk. their barrels and crunching wrenching anguish of a split-up, you’ll also have to undergo cross, and day after day we “You fucker!” the around, while people milled break-up of the skin-stretching agony of tattoo-removal. traipsed miserably back to Frenchman screamed, furious around beside them. What about a dove of peace? Waste of money. Don’t splash Yugoslavia, Belgrade, feeling frustrated that I’d rumbled his dirty There were lots of burned- your pacific avian inclinations on your torso – do something the fall of and disappointed. trick. out buildings and tonnes of about them instead! Help an old lady with her shopping, bake Then, finally, we turned up There had been no time to broken glass and I interviewed communism some cakes for your hungry neighbours, and hand your gun and the guards had gone. An write anything down, nor was people here and went to a press in Bulgaria empty border post! And so it it possible, lying on the floor of conference that I couldn’t real- into the police. and Romania, was that we – the BBC and a the hotel, so I had only a few ly follow and tried to cobble Or the fist of revolution? But the revolution will not be tat- whole convoy of cars carrying minutes to dictate words off together a sort of feature on too-ised. Anyway,a short cautionary tale: my aunt in the anti- the wars in reporters – drove off into the the top of my head to the copy- what the city looked like now authority heyday of the 1960s stamped her protest with her Slovenia, hermit kingdom, feeling just taker. I still have the story. It the dictator Ceaucescu had ankle. But in the more sober 2000s, she is a prison warden. like explorers. wasn’t that bad at all, given fled. She has to wear thick black tights in the height of summer to Croatia and The ride was amazing. the circumstances. I returned to the hotel and obscure the very attractive but hugely inappropriate Bosnia and Along the villages lining the The next day I got back to finally got through to the cannabis leaf from the inmates’ watchful gaze. road, word had got out that Belgrade, totally exhausted, paper. They expressed polite Instead, go for something more lasting and less at the the siege of some foreign reporters were having not really eaten any- interest in my story about the mercy of growing up. Sarajevo. coming into Romania to see thing in about 48 hours. new government being formed Perhaps engrave your national fervour on the small of your He received the now free city of Timisoara I was looking forward to get- and about what it looked like back? Are you an Albanian nationalist? The proud twin-head- and people just poured out of ting back to London in time for in Bucharest – and then broke ed eagle should win prizes for being one of the most stylish an MBE for their houses and lined the Christmas, imagining that big the news to me that Ceaucescu flags worldwide, but I hesitate to suggest anything involving services for sides of the highway, waving turkey that mother was going and his wife, Elena, had in fact black on a red background for skin adornments – it may end and cheering at the top of to be roasting. I didn’t worry been executed! up resembling some nasty epidemiological problem. journalism. their voices. about events in Bucharest. We Ho hum, seemed like I’d How about the Kosovar flag instead? No, no, no. In the inter- The temptation was too had a “bigshot” reporter somehow missed the big ests of aesthetics, I beg you not. much. I climbed out of the already there – a so-called story… You need to look to the graphic genius of the Stars and vehicle I was sitting in and “name”. I said I was leaving Stripes, flapping gracefully on your upper arm, for true tattoo clambered onto the top of the I was halfway out the door Bucharest the next day. This taste. And setting aside the visual attraction of this design roof for a while, waving back with my suitcase when the situation was ridiculous. If classic, under cover of the holiday period, there may also and receiving the applause phone rang. It was the paper. they wanted a live story out of have snuck a deeper reason for displaying your loyalty. like a Hollywood star. I barely There was an emergency. Bucharest, they needed to send In a press statement dated December 23, 2009, a seasonal noticed it was freezing. The “big name” reporter was someone in with some money, miracle occurred. The US Embassy to Prishtina Timisoara, when we arrived not so big when bullets were so they could hire a real trans- “encourage[d] all political parties and entities to respect both later that afternoon, was in a flying, apparently. lator and get a proper room in the letter and the spirit of the law [on elections] as this state of pandemonium and He had, in fact, fled from the a hotel with decent phone con- process [of deciding whether to hold new elections in Lipjan, delirium. The trams were hotel and had fled Romania nections. Gjilan and Prizren] continues and to refrain from attempts to hurtling round the city, hoot- too. I had to go there instead. I When I was eventually back subvert the institutions and processes established by law to ing, the roofs covered in people protested that I had no money, in London and saw that big their own partisan advantage”. who were shouting and crying and no means of getting to front page article with my You may need to take a deep breath and read that again. and waving flags while the Romania in my tiny little car, name on it, but which I’d only The US Embassy in this short note affirms publicly and bells of every church in town but they insisted. So, off I half written, I threw it in the unambiguously its support for free, fair and democratic elec- peeled. went. bin. tions and un-politicised, independent institutions in Kosovo. Suddenly, without warning, As I literally had no money, I I didn’t even keep a copy. OK, so it’s a little late: the first round of municipal elec- the mood darkened. Towards couldn’t even afford the visa I never went back to tions on November 15 was no better than the second round. sunset, shots started echoing through still-communist Romania for many, many years And anyway, the second round was a whole ten days before and the crowds turned from Bulgaria, so I had to politely and have never revisited this press statement. joy to fear – and suspicion. beg the guards to let me Bucharest. And for that tattoo, you may well be worried. On November To escape the shooting and through on the grounds that I But I did go back once to 16, Ambassador Dell said the elections “demonstrated to the screaming and pushing crowds needed to “tell the world the Timisoara, stopping off on my world that an independent Kosovo is a place where democra- us reporters fled into a hotel, truth” or some such thing. To way back from a visit to some cy can and does flourish”, brushing over the widespread only to find it full of angry my surprise they gave in and Saxon villages in irregularities a touch too glibly. youths wearing armbands, let me pass, for free! Transylvania. But we forgive him this extraordinary U-turn, since the ordering us around and mak- The weather was filthy and Wandering into a hotel, I ing us lie on the floor “for own the roads terrible but somehow suddenly noticed a row of turn has been towards the right direction. safety”. or other I rattled my way to clocks on the wall that gave the The US has long been a staunch and loyal ally of Kosovo. Suddenly I realised: how the Bucharest and booked myself times in New York, Moscow But flattery is not the mark of a true friendship; to be a true hell was I going to file, lying on into the first hotel where I and various other cities. friend, uncomfortable messages sometimes need to be deliv- the ground and with only one could find a space. Suddenly I knew where I’d ered. In this press statement, the US Embassy demonstrates or two outside lines? A car pulled up behind me seen those clocks before. That the strength and fidelity of its friendship with Kosovo. There seemed to be two on the same road in front of was the hotel! Unchanged! So, hot-foot it down to the tattoo shop and etch this new US working telephones and about the hotel. There was a dead Same marble floor. Same recep- policy on your right arm immediately – and then they can’t a hundred journalists! body in the back. Two Italian tion. I remembered everything change their minds, can they? Amazingly, my paper, The journalists were sitting in the then, from that evening 20 Independent, had somehow front. The woman was their years ago, and smiled. Email your questions to [email protected]

To send a letter to Prishtina Insight, email [email protected]. 14 • January 15 - 28, 2010 If you would like your NGO to appear in our Making a Difference feature, please NGO Focus email [email protected] Igniting Business Ideas – SPARK education and entrepreneurship so that young and ambitious people are empowered to lead their post- By Shengjyl Osmani conflict society into prosperity. Their first activity has been to help the University of Prishtina establish its summer university, outh unemployment is one of which has become a tradition Kosovo’s most pressing social among students. Yissues, with almost half of Every year, more than 1,500 stu- the country’s young currently dents from the Western Balkans workless. complete one of the SPARK-initiat- This is where the Dutch NGO ed summer university courses in SPARK steps in to provide Kosovo’s Prishtina or Mitrovica. young Europeans with training, In 2009, the NGO started new guidance and financial help to start summer university courses in up new businesses or find a job. Palestine and Liberia and it will “We work to improve education soon launch a new business college and employment opportunities for in Mitrovica. youth in post-conflict countries,” Qarri said: “We find youth from said Valentina Qarri, head of the the region very curious and inter- office in Prishtina. “We build the ested in participating in regional capacity of local economic and edu- activities. cational institutions so they can “The summer universities in empower their own populations.” southeast Europe, for example, are Established since 2000, SPARK drawing strong regional interest –The Business Start-Up Centre, from the youth. Also, the new busi-

BSC, provides practical training to byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit ness college in Mitrovica has lead to One of SPARK’S successful projects students and graduates on how to many requests from the youth from establish small and medium size Promising course attendees are The NGO believes that high The centre is assisting graduate the entire region.” commercial enterprises. selected through a regional busi- youth unemployment is creating a students of all universities in In the near future, SPARK plans The training includes modules on ness plan competition and assisted dissatisfied, idle young population Kosovo to establish small and medi- to establish a vocational business business-plan writing, entrepre- with soft loans, small grants and which could eventually trigger um sized enterprises. studies course that will provide neurial skills, accounting and budg- technical assistance. social unrest, as witnessed in Practical training courses are high quality professional degrees eting, project cycle management, Improving regional relations and March 2004. offered, as well as access to micro- and BA degrees issued by a Danish local and international trade oppor- increasing trade in south east SPARK has now established a credits for the most promising busi- partner institution. tunities and skills which prepare Europe are essential for economic BSC in Prishtina, with expertise ness ideas. the entrepreneur to operate in a growth and stability in the Western drawn from existing BSC’s in south SPARK said that its overall objec- For more information visit competitive business environment. Balkans, SPARK says. east Europe and The Netherlands. tive for the project was to develop www.spark-online.org.

Easy

Embassies and Liaison Offices in Prishtina 142789365 American Bulgarian 10000 Prishtina 835246197

Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 French Japanese Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 697351482

Prishtina Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina Slovenian Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 783194526

Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Prishtina

10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 524673819 Luxemburg Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886

Austrian Danish Greek Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. 14 916528734

Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Address: "Nene Teresa" no. 2 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Swedish

Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 10000 Prishtina Prishtina Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19 279815643 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000

Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 Pejton Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Prishtina 10 000 Pristina 461937258

Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 Malaysian Phone: +381 38 24 57 95 Dutch 358462971 Belgian German Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 10000 Prishtina Swiss Velania, 10000 Prishtina 10000 Pristina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11

Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 Medium

Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 Prishtina Norwegian 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 637124859 Finnish

British 10000 Prishtina Italian Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Turkish 284965713

Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6 Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19

Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Pejton 195387462 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Saudia Arabian Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000

Prishtina 10 000 Pristina Address: Dardania SU 7, building Prishtina Prishtina 962738145

Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 Phone: +386 43 737 000

Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 2, #1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044

713459286

548612397 Easy Medium Hard 476893521 |

49 269 39852 829571634 351246978 358 71 34 8

Hard

91 4 85 65 916427385

96 87 43798 6 3 374658291

582193746

54789 32 7 147236958 31 5 6 92 4 17 95 653879124

954 57 19 298541673

429365817

83 4 28 96 1 865712439 29 71 4 96278 731984562 By Visar Hapçiu • January 15 - 28, 2010 15 in Prishtina Timeout

Prishtina Diary January 15, 10pm January 16, 10pm Kosovo Basketball Duplex Club – Why Not Club – Skopje’s DJ Babura Live performance by will be entertaining Florent Nushi fter nearly a four-week winter playoffs, which will be played at the end Currently Sigal Prishtina sits in first you with house, pro- break, Kosovar basketball teams of the regular season. place, just two points ahead of Big gressive house and January 16, 10pm Aare now returning to the court. This week sees some major clashes in Brother Bashkimi. UP Club (Prizren) – The Technomarket Superleague of the league, but the one which will draw The league leaders will meet their big electro music while Kosovo is composed of eight teams, fight- most attention is match between Sigal rivals at The Youth and Sports Center, DJ Pamoni will Live music with the ing to secure themselves a place in the Prishtina and Big Brother Bashkimi. Prishtina, at 8pm, Saturday, January 16. deliver a combina- famous Kosovar tion of hip hop and rock band TNT RnB music January 16, 8pm January 15, 11pm Kosovo National Peppermint Club – Theater – DJ Itto with house Performance of the music play Norway.Today

January 15, 10pm January 20 and 212 Jazz Club – January 30, 8pm Latino Band for a Kosovo National special Latino Theater – Ilire Friday Çelaj, Ernest Malazogu, Yllka January 15, 10pm Gashi and others City Room Club – will be performing Hip hop party with the well known DJ Jungle Kosovo play From January 15 – Dejziland January 25 January 21 and Expoart.40 Gallery January 28 – Multimedia exhibi- Kosovo National tion of Leart Zogjani Theater – Ballet January 15, 8pm play “Rhapsody on a Oda Theater – Rap Theme of Paganini” outfit Ufo Click are Cinema Pristina In Your promoting their January 23, 10 PM newest album Last Oda Theater – Pocket city guide City DNB-KS presents a massive drum and January 15, 8pm bass event with Kosovo National Black Sun Empire Theater – Piano from the concert with Netherlands (Tickets Albanian artists available for 3 euro at Drrasa Thyme) January 16, 10pm Duplex Club – January 26, 8 PM Party with DJ Kosovo National Kont’s hip hop and Theater – The RnB mixes Basement, a play by January 16, 11pm Ardian Kyçyku, Peppermint Club – directed by Fadil DJ Flow will be Hysaj delivering the best of ABC Cinema – After Zombieland, ABC his hip hop mixes Basketball match, Cinema is kicking off the New Year with a January 16, 8 PM musical. Fame will be screened three January 16, 10pm Youth and Sports times a day, each day. This musical which City Room Club – Center – Two titans was first broadcast in the USA, Canada The greatest hits by of Kosovo basketball and UK, and is a remake of the well DJ Doni will be measuring known movie with the same name, which up against each New issue for sale at January 16, 10pm was released in 1980. other. Sigal Dukagjini and Dit e Nat 212 Jazz Club – Time: 6pm, 8pm and 10pm Prishtina vs. Big For more info tel. +38 649 173 447 Bringing you back Duration: 1 hour and 47 minutes Brother Bashkimi to the 80s with a spe- Ticket price: 3 euro will be a match not http://pristina.inyourpocket.com cial RnB night Reservation: 038 243 117 to be missed. 16 • January 15 - 28, 2010 marketing