TEMBE emerging from the SHADOWS Mercilessly hunted for sport and for their ivory until their very existence was rumoured to be a myth, the elephants of northern KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa are making a steady comeback. Thanks to the dedication of a group of conservationists, the pachyderms are coming out of their forest hideaways calmer, healthier and bigger-tusked than ever. Last year Clive Walker visited Tembe Elephant Park abutting the Mozambique border and investigated the progress of a sanctuary he helped create almost three decades ago. ᮣ TEXT BY CLIVE WALKER GRANT ATKINSON WWW.AFRICAGEOGRAPHIC.COM 37 t’s not surprising that for many the end of that decade, no-one knew their years the elephants inhabiting the status. Civil war had broken out north of area known today as Tembe Ele- the border and, understandably, the phant Park, in Maputaland in the South African authorities were unwilling South African province of KwaZulu- to allow researchers to investigate the INatal (KZN), were regarded as both phan- population. toms and as extremely dangerous when So what was I doing there in 1978 beat- encountered. In the 19th century, early ing a hasty retreat from an angry ele- European hunters had pursued them hotly phant? How did I manage to find myself for their ivory; in the 20th century, their in a restricted area that required an entry ancient migration routes led them across permit from the South African govern- the border into Mozambique, where they ment? Well, at the time, John Hanks of were targeted for both their tusks and the University of Natal’s Department of meat. Those that escaped fled back to the Biological Sciences had advised Iain safety of their sand forest home, where Douglas-Hamilton of Save the Elephants their descendants live to this day. of his concerns about the the province’s By the late 1970s, just 20 to 30 bulls last elephants living outside a protected remained, a pitiful fragment of the vast area. As director of the Endangered herds that once roamed as far south, it is Wildlife Trust (EWT), I had been invited thought, as present-day Durban and as far by Douglas-Hamilton to join the IUCN north, via the Futi River Corridor, as the Elephant Specialist Group to help expose Rio Maputo wetlands in Mozambique. By the illegal ivory trade in South Africa. And By the late 1970s, just 20 to 30 bulls remained, a pitiful fragment of the vast herds that once roamed as far south, it is thought, as present-day Durban CLIVE WALKER SHUTTERSTOCK/HEIN WELMAN TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK NDUMO–FUTI–TEMBE TRANSFRONTIER CONSERVATION AREA t’s long been a dream of conser- Ivationists to create a vast arc of protected land stretching from South Africa’s Indian Ocean coast through Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia to the Atlantic shore. Tembe Elephant Park is a core area within the proposed Ndumo–Futi– Tembe Transfrontier Conservation Area, which incorporates parts of Swaziland, Mozambique and South Af- rica, linking Tembe with the wetlands and pan system of Ndumo Game Reserve. It would restore to the elephants their territories in the Futi system and the Rio Maputo wetlands of Mozambique, allowing them to roam freely as they once did. ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN that’s how, one cool morning, I found which utilised the abundant resources, myself running through the dense thick- cutting reeds and thatching grass, tapping MOZAMBIQUE ets with my companions from the the local palms, grazing livestock and col- KwaZulu Bureau of Natural Resources lecting fruits and traditional plants. I had (now Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife). made numerous trips there in the past Two other people were interested in and had spent time photographing the Maputo the future of the elephants: Les Lückhoff, huts and the inhabitants. Apart from the a former chairman of the KwaZulu elephants, there were few larger wild ani- Conservation Trust, and Anthony Hall- mals other than red duiker and the elu- Proposed Ndumo-Futi- Martin, another member of the Elephant sive and very rare suni. Tembe SWAZILAND TFCA Specialist Group, who had worked in the In order to determine the status and Ponta do Ouro region for a short period and believed number of the elephants, I had to obtain • NDUMO GR TEMBE only bulls inhabited the thick forests. special clearance for what turned out to ELEPHANT PARK Lückhoff had informed me that the be a two-year undertaking. The man cho- establishment of a sanctuary was being sen to carry out the survey was Walther discussed by the authorities, not only as Klingelhofer, a wiry young German- a preserve for the elephants, but also to speaking Honours student who studied INDIAN OCEAN protect the area’s biodiversity. under Koos Bothma at the Centre for SOUTH AFRICA Wildlife Management at the University of aputaland (or Tongaland, as it Pretoria. Despite admitting that he knew N was then called) lies in the precious little, if anything, about ele- ✵ north-eastern corner of South phants, Klingelhofer set off gamely in the St Lucia • MAfrica, tucked between Swazi- university-supplied vehicle. It was not a 60 km land, the Indian Ocean and Mozambique. conventional 4x4 and could not penetrate An area of some 8 000 square kilometres, the rough terrain, meaning that he had to it includes reserves such as Ndumo and carry out much of his work on foot, Kosi Bay, which also reach to the armed with a shotgun, binoculars, note- Mozambique border. book and pen. He did wear running shoes OPPOSITE, LEFT A Tembe trainee sangoma The region was occupied in part by the – essential for escaping an irate elephant. I photographed in the 1970s. Tembe people, whose chief, Msimba am certain that few students today would Tembe, was open to the suggestion of a have taken on the task. OPPOSITE, RIGHT A lone nyala moves across the Tembe Elephant Park wetlands. reserve area in the midst of their land. Our visits to check on Klingelhofer’s Our biggest challenge was balancing the progress were better equipped. When PAGE 37 An elephant mum and baby. It has taken three decades for the elephant population needs of the people and the animals. Bothma and I headed northwards, our to grow from some 30 to 250, comprising several There were 51 kraals, the inhabitants of transport was a Ford F250, (to page 42) ᮣ breeding herds. WWW.AFRICAGEOGRAPHIC.COM 39 Tembe Elephant Park is a wonderful tribute to all who put a great deal of effort into its creation, not least the men and women on the ground who are tasked with its day-to-day integrity KOOS VAN DER LENDE TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK TEMBE ELEPHANT PARK Established: 1983. Size: 30 000 hectares. Wildlife: Elephant, suni, red duiker, leopard, African buffalo, porcupine, warthog, 340 bird species (notably plain-backed sunbird, African broadbill, Rudd’s apalis, rufous-bellied heron and TEMBE ELEPHANT LODGE swamp nightjar). Vegetation: Sand forest, bushveld, one of those legendary pick-ups so well 1983 and the electrified fence was com- swampland, palm veld. known to rough-terrain devotees. Our pleted in 1989. The human inhabitants What to do: A 4x4 vehicle is re- main concern when driving along the were resettled on land immediately quired to enter Tembe. Morning and border was that we would hit a landmine, south of the park, although they con- evening game drives, self-guided trails, and I said a quiet prayer each time we tinue to cut and collect thatching grass rock art. ventured onto the road. and reeds within it. Where to stay: The author was At that time, poaching in Mozambique The move to establish a sanctuary on the guest of Tembe Elephant Lodge was rife and the elephants that wandered community land raised considerable (above), which offers luxury tented across the border from South Africa were controversy, and Chief Tembe’s far- accommodation with en-suite facilit- shot at. Those that survived their wounds sighted support played a major role in its ies (including outdoor showers) and fled south into the thick forests along the realisation. It was part of a much bigger excellent service. E-mail info@tembe. Muzi Swamp, occasionally killing people conservation plan that was led by co.za, tel. +27 (0)31 267 0144, or go en route. Klingelhofer the Bureau of Natural to www.tembe.co.za, where you can had his fair share of con- [Klingelhofer] had Resources director also view the webcam. frontations and on one to carry out much Nick Steele, with back- occasion, unable to scare of his work on foot, ing from the chief live Walker is one of South Africa’s off an angry elephant by minister, Mangosuthu Cbest-known conservationists. A firing his shotgun in the armed with a shot- Buthelezi. Another co-founder of the EWT, he is also the air, he threw the weapon gun, binoculars, supporter was the author of several books. His most re- down in front of the notebook and pen Natal Parks Board, now cent, co-written with son Anton, shares beast and made his es- also incorporated into his personal story about rhinos. The cape. Needless to say the gun required Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, the park’s man- Rhino Keepers is fi lled with a passion for repairs, which did not impress the univer- aging authority. the animals, and urges readers to ques- sity authorities. In 1998, Tembe Elephant Lodge was tion the way we manage Two and a half years after starting opened to the public. A luxury 18-bed our natural heritage and work, Klingelhofer produced his find- retreat, it is part-owned and managed by to recognise our role as ings, revealing the existence not only the Tembe community, with employees custodians of our rhinos of bull elephants but of breeding herds drawn locally.