The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 THE SEA CANOEIST NEWSLETTER Issue 61 February - March 1996 Editor: P Caffyn, RD 1, Runanga. West Coast .N.Z. Ph/Fax: (03) 7311806 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is published 6 times a year as the official newsletter of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. Subscriptions are $10.00 per annum & should be made out to K.A.S.K. (NZ) Inc. & sent to the Treasurer: Sandy Ferguson,12 Dunn Street, Christchurch 2. Ph: (03) 332 5155 home, Fax: (03) 364 2110 Correspondence to the Secretary: Peter Sullivan, 7 Monowai Cres, North New Brighton, Christchurch. Ph.(03) 388 3380.

INDEX rum clinics, lectures and slide shows NETWORK ADDRESSES EDITORIAL p. 1 with an overnight paddling trip. The Auckland Sea Kayak Network KASK Forum p. 1 overnight venue is a DOC campsite at (ASKNET) NETWORK ADDRESSES p.1 Mistletoe Bay, with room for 40 tents, Vincent Maire: 7 Motuora Rd, Manly, S.I. Circumnavigation p. 2 plus a large shed which can be used Whangaparoa, Auckland EXPEDITION NEWS p. 5 for cooking and shelter. A key is also Tel: (09) 424 2293 BOOK REVIEW - 'Kabloona being provided to KASK to allow Fax: (09) 480 5719 in the Yellow Kayak' p. 5 vehicle access via the Keneperu Road POP RIVETS AT SEA - for those unable to paddle around. Otago Sea Kayakers Association by Bevan Walker p. 6 Mistletoe Bay, at the head of Onahau (OSKA) TRIP REPORTS Bay, lies 10 kms by kayak north of Stephen Cox, 104 Highcliff Rd, White Island, by Max Grant p. 6 Picton. Anderson Bay, Dunedin Puysegur Pt. > Doubtful Snd. At last year’s Titahi Bay forum, the Ph: (03) 454 2315 home by Phil Handford p. 8 idea of a ‘sea kayak meet’ was sug- Ph: (03) 477 6603 work NOT QUITE KAYAKING gested, with paddlers getting together Fax: (03) 477 6670 Canoedling Couple p. 6 for an overnight or multi-day paddle. Batph: (025) 368 330 From the net p. 7 Generally, the frenetic pace and regi- LETTER BOX: Mail mentation of the forums allows too Canterbury Sea Kayak Network & Newsletters received p. 7 little time for fraternizing and chin newsletter editor: Sandy Ferguson RUSSEL GINN -Tribute p.13 wagging. Hence this year, the short 12 Dunn St, Christchurch 2 KASK FORUM - Cont. P.14 paddling trip and overnight camp will Ph: (03) 332 5155 home allow a chance to meet and socialize Fax: (03) 364 2110 with paddlers both on the water, in the Trip & event contacts: EDITORIAL convivial surroundings of a secluded Stephen Counsell: Congratulations and a hearty well done bay. Participants are requested to pro- (03) 366 9305 work to Brian Roberts, who completed the vide food, equipment and selected Peter & Diane Sullivan first solo, unsupported circumnaviga- bottles of Australian hermitage wines (03) 388 3389 before 9.30pm tion of the at Picton on for the evening. February 5, 1996. The account of his For prospective paddlers or cou- Waikato/Bay of Plenty trip is a mix of what Brian wrote ples short of a boat, Alistair Rynn has Vincent Maire of the Auckland Sea during his bad weather sojourn at the three rental doubles and a single he Kayak Network (ASKNET) has writ- 12 Mile, brief notes I recorded of the can bring from Nelson (30% discount ten to more than 30 kayakers residing intervening sections, and a letter from for the occasion). in the Bay of Plenty and Waikato Brian at the end of his trip. Write to Alistair at 71B Tahunanui regions suggesting they get together Drive, Nelson or; to organize trips and other activities. Sadly, Russel Ginn, our veteran KASK Ph/fax: (03) 546 4038 ASKNET has a number of members Titahi Bay paddler passed away in Batphone: (025) 374 037. from the area and the Coastbusters January. He will be sadly missed by Symposium always attracts paddlers family, friends and KASK members. Reminder: from south of the Bombay Hills. Please notify Peter Sullivan of your The idea is for ASKNET to promote KASK Forum intention to attend the forum. Num- trips for sea kayakers in the region and bers are necessary to arrange the ca- it is expected these trips will also Peter Sullivan has finalized organiza- tering. The forum notification was in- attract paddlers from Auckland. tion for the annual forum at Picton. cluded in Newsletter No.60. Peter’s Any paddlers wanting to know The change this year is to bring to- address and contact numbers are in- more about the idea, contact Vincent gether the traditional organized fo- cluded with the newsletter information. at (09) 424 2293 or fax: (09) 480 5719

1 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 S.I.K.E line to Porpoise Bay; stopped at Bluff terrible spot to come ashore - my South Island Kayaking for food. worst error in judgement. After a The following is a more detailed white-knuckle ride through the con- Expedition 95/96 account of Brian’s trip around Puysegur fused surf, I climbed to the top of a by Brian Roberts & P. Caffyn Point, which he wrote while waiting steep rocky beach and surveyed the Paddler: Brian Roberts for the weather at the 12 Mile: situation; 300m to the left or right Trade: electrical engineer 'Five days. Waiting. I was glued to were much calmer areas with better From: Denver, Colorado the AM and VHF radios listening to the sleeping surfaces. Ug... I was too Age: 29 years weather forecasts praying for a change tired to carry everything one way or 2 years previous sea kayaking experi- in the winds. ‘Foveaux Straight is a bit the other. My punishment for the ence; came from climbing/skiing unrelenting, eh?’ I rhetorically asked night was to squirm around on rubgy- background; quit his job 2 years ago; myself. Up until now, I had some pretty sized rocks trying to get comfort- wanted to travel; bought a klepper; good weather to help me along the East able. At least there was a beautiful wanted to see things from a different Coast. In fact, I would wish for unfa- sunset and no rain. viewpoint; read John Dowd’s books; vourable winds at times so I could rest. I was on the doorstep of Fiord- packed up the boat; went paddling in Maybe I wished a little too hard be- land. And the coastline in front of me Fiji; 3 weeks in Australia paddling; cause it all came at once and in the to Puysegur Point is considered the wrong spot: Bluff. Gale force NW’ers crux of a circumnavigation because Timetable had been consistently churning up the there are no landings in rough seas. Brian’s goal was to paddle around the seas leaving little hope for a kayaker to Gates Harbour (near Puysegur Pt.) entire length of the South Island coast- get into . provides some shelter, but is quite line in a clockwise direction. Since he So frustrating... I could feel that exposed to the southerly swell. Anxi- couldn’t convince friends to accom- ‘expedition edge’ begin to wither in- ety welled up inside me as I listened pany him, it was a solo unsupported side me. After three days of sitting at a to the weather report; SEerlies in the effort which was a daunting prospect backpackers, I figured I’d just better morning turning to 50 knot northerly to start, but proved personally satis- grin and bear the wind. So I launched by the end of the day. The radio fying. from the protected harbour at Bluff and broadcaster announced it twice so Brian commenced his trip from clawed my way into it. After several that there would be no confusion: Picton on 22 October 1995, on the hours and only 17km, I decided it wasn’t FIFTY... FIVE ZERO knots. With first leg down to Christchurch. Went worth the struggle. I landed through the apprehension, I packed the kayak out through Tory Channel where he surf and set up the tent for another two and punched through the subsided explored sea caves just south of chan- days. At least I had a good book to read surf at 7am. Hopefully, I could make nel; on the first leg his only problem - the voyages of Captain James Cook. it to Gates Harbour before the hurri- was dumping surf just before Kaik- And I was happy to learn that he had cane set in. oura; didn’t break anything but in- some incredibly bad weather in this The winds pushed me along as I jured a knee. While trying to break area as well (...misery loves company). admired the bush that covered the out, a big wave flipped the kayak over The book was so absorbing that I was low lying hills. A spark was rekin- Brian while he was launching. Pegasus reluctant to leave when the winds sub- dled in my spirit as the unspoiled Bay crossing was his longest day; 20 sided. But, change was in the air; it was wilderness of Fiordland began to to 30 knot NElies, and 90 kms in 13 3 degrees when I packed up the kayak unfold. I had stared at so many grassy hours to Sumner. to push myself through the strait. hills with white specked sheep on Brian then took a two week break I stopped in at Riverton to notify the the East Coast that I forgot bush does in Christchurch; a recce of the West local coastguards of my intentions and exist in NZ. (And don’t forget the Coast and Fiordland with his cousin; continued to Colac Bay for the night. dreary Canterbury plains; 40' cliffs changes made to the boat with few At 5am, I listened to the marine weather and shingle beaches as far as the eye modifications to back rest and the bulletin predicting south-easterlies in can see - for days.) Now, the hills rudder foot pedals. Started again; lots the morning (you beauty) and norther- gave way to mountains, ever increas- of NElies and calm days and he made lies in the afternoon (bummer). I ing in height. Ah...this is kayaking! good time down to Dunedin; worst launched hoping to make a little more The day moved on and the winds stage of trip was coastal bluffs and progress. The 4m swell from the dissi- drew calm. I found myself at the gravel beaches down to Dunedin. pated NW’ers was quite impressive to Green Islets; a collection of volcanic Otago peninsula was enjoyable and watch as it battered the rocky coastline rocks scattered around a protruding he was told about a dairy behind the with tremendous force. I had to move head. And since the swell was down beach at St. Clair; wet suit swept off quickly and get myself into Te Wae- to 1m, I weaved myself in and out of the kayak while landing. The break- wae Bay before the winds changed their maze like structure. Caves led out from St. Clair was one of his direction. But, they never came. The to other openings. Archways tow- toughest breakouts; stopped dead by SE’ers persisted the entire day giving ered above me. Seals stared at me in some of the waves. me the opportunity to reach Sand Hill confusion. I had bummed into an- Only night paddle was to avoid Point by evening. It turned out to be a other crown-jewel in NZ’s coast- headwinds; went round Nugget Point beautiful day for paddling. But, then I line. And the splendour continued as at 4am in the morning; lovely coast- went ahead and ruined it by picking a I worked myself west along the shore-

2 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

line. Waterfalls tumbled off of high days with repairs to kayak; picked up Day 76: lunch at Seal Island; en- forested cliffs, glissading down to a cold in Te Anau, which then made tered Constant Bay at Charleston for a white sand beaches. The sun came out the next section through to Barn Bay stretch, then camped at Carters Beach. and lit up the shallow waters in an the most frustrating, despite good Day 77: calm all day; camped in- array of deep blue hues. Wow... I weather, a day resting, a day pad- side Little Wanganui River mouth didn’t expect this during the ‘crux’! dling, couldn’t shake the cold, Dees (sth end of Karamea) But, I couldn’t stay long. The weather to Looking Glass Bay, to Poison Bay; Day 78: Northerly breezes 10 to 15 could still turn bad. I pressed forward straight past Milford to Martins Bay; knots. Made it to the Heaphy River into Gates Harbour and startled some to Barn Bay ; rest day, northerlies and and entered at high tide through low fisherman resting on their boat. I asked three days at Barn Bay; shook the cold surf; slept in the DOC hut. about the weather and the skipper was in the comfort of the fisherman’s Day 79: Westerly breezes; talked confident that it would remain calm cabin; then good progress, seven days to research scientists on a boat moored for the rest of the day. “And even to Greymouth near Otukoroiti Point: “This is the tomorrow,” he added. “I’ll take to- Re-supplied at Haast Beach with calmest we’ve seen it in three years....” day... if I can,” I replied and he ex- food; punched a hole in the stern by Camped a couple of bays north-east plained to me where I could find the dragging the kayak over some logs; of Whanganui Inlet. Kisbee Lodge in Preservation Inlet. didn’t realize stern was holed until Day 80: Paddled through Archway So I continued and paddled around Moeraki; sleeping bag drenched; some Islands and Pillar Point; westerly Puysegur point in calm winds, feeling food lost; perspective had begun to winds gusting to 30 knots - pushed me rather fortunate. The caretaker at the change with less frustration and anger down Farewell Spit in no time. Ran Kisbee Lodge welcomed me with a when things went wrong; patched over a shark along the way. Camped hot shower and a first-rate feed of holes in stern with duct tape; to north on the easternmost islet of the spit. venison stew to finish off one of the of Bruce Bay; then to Okarito which Day 81: Light winds in the morn- best days of the trip.' was a highlight; stayed in backpackers; ing; cut across Golden Bay to Separa- a shower, conversation with people; tion Point. Lunch at the Awaroa Bay Brian took a rest day at Kisbee lodge; people who run a kayaking shop gave cafe. Camped near Pitt Head in Abel good yarn with the caretaker named him a loaf of bread; from Okarito two Tasman National Park. Peanut; who took Brian out fishing days to the Taramakau River mouth. Day 82: Paddling by 5am, on a for the day; blue cod technique. North- Got in through some of the breakers course east for French Pass. The fore- erlies starting to pick up; went over to but a huge wave which swept him in cast was for northerly winds in the Cavern Head and soaked up some for 20 to 30m, had a kick at the end afternoon so I was hoping to get to history; up to Cape Providence, and which dumped Brian; he tried rolling; Pepin Island or further. The winds Nlies came in; next two days tried to separated from his boat; swam after never got above 15 knots, so I made it make progress against Nlies. South- boat for two to three minutes, always to Cape Soucis; camping on a very erlies then and a fast ride to Dusky. 2 to 3 m in front; finally caught up exposed beach south-west of the cape. Camped in Wet Jacket Arm; same with kayak; dragged boat around end Not a good place to land but I was campsite as Max & Paul. Christmas of the bar and into the river mouth; a quickly running out of energy; my Eve; one of his best campsites; caught local chap John Edwards was BBQing body was shutting down. a cod. Then a short day to Breaksea there; offered Brian some tea, and Day 83 & 84: I lay comatose for 24 Sound with northerlies picking up; rang Paul Caffyn. hours, mustering enough energy to tried to contact fishermen but all out cook a meal every now and then. for Christmas. Made it by evening to On January 20, I found Brian packing After the second day, my strength had Breaksea Island, but the DOC hut was at the Taramakau River mouth, and returned. locked; he decided to stay but no helped him launch. The sea had eased Day 85: NWers had blown for the room to camp; seals and rocks on a little over night and Brian made a past two days so it was a challenge to beach; ended up nailed in the hut clean run out through the northern break out of the surf. Breezes at my doorway for four nights with gale channel, easily missing a big line of back all morning to push me through force northerlies; just about to break breakers toppling on the bar. Three French Pass. The current was with into the hut when the storm subsided. hours later I picked him up at me. What a ride! I averaged eight to Brian left at noon on roughest sea Blaketown lagoon, the fishermen’s ten knots from the pass to Clay Point. conditions; very confused; boat harbour in the Grey River. A one way ticket. I rounded Cape popped out of water and made it to A cold front, big seas, then strong Jackson in the evening and came Doubtful Sound; stopped at the hut by north-easterly winds nailed Brian for ashore in Ship Cove after dark. The Gut on Secretary Island. A stroke five days at the 12 Mile, but he Day 86: I woke in the morning to of good luck after a paddle up to Deep launched at 7am from the 12 Mile on see ‘No Camping’ signs Cove; cadged a ride with a fishermen 26 January and had a superb run with everywhere'...oops. Climbed into the over to Te Anau for New Years’ eve. tailwinds and calm seas to Farewell boat quickly and battle headwinds all Fell asleep at 10.30am. Stocking up Spit. The following is from a brief day to make it to Picton in the after- on food, Bill and Daphne took Brian note Brian sent me at the conclusion noon. A quiet ending, but many con- back to Deep Cove. Next section, two of his trip: gratulations from Dave, Sara and the days to Dees Cove, lots of NWers; team at Marlborough Sounds Adven-

3 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 ture Company (who stored my boat 1 hand-held smoke flare - orange epoxy, neoprene glue, and gear as I headed off for a good Night glow sticks needle+thread, etc. feed.) Paddle float First Aid kit Trip Summary Leg rest - dry bag holding: baliclava, Bivy sac Distance: 1,554 miles fleece jacket, AM/FM radio (Sony Coffee mug - big! Total time: 86 days Sport, weather resistant) and emergency Fanny pack - journal, pins, money, Paddling days: 55 food (in case I am forced to sit in the checks, passport, etc. Rest/weather: 31 boat overnight). Personal bag - toothbrush+paste, TP, Paddling day average: 28.3mpd A tray in the cockpit held the fol- fishing tackle, candles, batteries, etc. Fiordland Summary lowing: lunch for the day - scrogin, biscuits and an orange Radio Coverage Distance: 340 miles VHF hand-held radio - ICOM IC- The VHF radio proved useful, pri- Total time: 26 days M10A, in waterproof radio bag. Six marily for weather reports. Most of Paddling days: 13 AA alkaline batteries. Registered with the East coast is covered by repeater Rest/weather: 13 NZ Ministry of Commerce. stations which are used by Maritime Camera - Olympus Superzoom 80wide, Radio authorities to broadcast Equipment List: weather resistant, automatic, 28-80mm weather information and warnings Kayak - fibreglass Southern Aurora zoom. three times a day. There is a gap in by Quality Kayaks. It was 3 years old, the Catlins, however coverage is purchased second hand. The sliding Placed in small dry bag: good in Foveaux Strait. West of Te foot rests connecting to the rudder Odds+Ends bag - Sun screen, lip balm, Waewae Bay, the coverage ceases were replaced with stationary foot sun glasses, light rope, bug repellent, until Greymouth so I relied on fish- rests and toe control for the rudder headlamp ermen to transmit my position and cables. The back rest was replaced (Everything in the cockpit was at- intentions via Single Side Band ra- with closed-cell foam padding and tached to the boat by string in case the dios to local safety coordinators. padding for the knees was added. The cockpit gets flooded - Which happened Repeaters do exist in Fiordland, how- seat was well padded with 1/2" foam. recently. And everything stayed with ever, I was told that I would have to the boat expect the pogies and the venture a few miles off the coast to Outside of kayak: sponge, which were not strung up.) access them. The VHF radio was Paddle - light weight fibreglass, thin only useful for boat to boat contact, blade, split, Zypher by Nimbus. 235cm In the back hatch: which I would use in case I became Spare paddle - old, indestructible, plas- Sleeping bag - synthetic, 3 season by stranded. tic blade and aluminium shaft (very North Face, in dry bag NZ National radio transmits ma- heavy). 240cm Tent - 2 person by Moss. The extra rine weather bulletins at 3am and Hand pump - plastic room was appreciated when all of the 5am each morning which I was able Helmet gear could be placed inside, in sandfly to receive on my AM radio. Even in Sea anchor by Boulter of Earth country. Fiordland, although it was difficult (Canada) - attached to bow Tent poles at times, I was able to receive the Drink bottle Stove - Peak 1 by Coleman, burns bulletins. When the weather was bad Plastic map case white gas (lots of cloud cover), the signal faded Pot with lid in and out. But, after listening to both On the paddler: Maps - 9 maps covering the South reports I was able to piece together Wetsuit - 3mm, Farmer John style Island, scale 1:250,000 - in dry bag the situation. Neoprene booties Reading book - in dry bag Sandflies were a constant annoy- Polypro top Hiking shoes ance in Fiordland. In order to func- Paddle jacket Plastic tarp tion properly outside the tent, I would PFD - pockets containing: 8 mini hand Food - in dry bags; Breakfast: muesli, cover myself from head to foot in flares (red), compass, mirror, whistle, coffee or peppermint tea; Dinner: pasta clothing. Polypro long johns cov- knife n’ sauce packets, rice, potatoes, car- ered the body, arms and legs, light rots, onions, garlic, crackers, fish polypro gloves covered the hands, In the cockpit: socks on the feet and mosquito net- Sleeping pad - closed-cell foam. In the front hatch: ting over the head. After burning a Placed under feet for cushion. Clothes - polypro long johns, fleece hole in the tent while cooking inside Water bag - plastic, 2.5 gallon. Pushed pants, shorts, cotton shirt, polypro (to avoid the sandflies), I cooked and past foot pegs. gloves+hat, ate outside. I used bug repellent spar- Bailer - plastic milk container cut in spare paddling hat, parka, plastic rain ingly, since the stuff I had was 95% half pants. sandals Deit (bad for the skin). Pogies Fuel Bottle for refilling stove Brian Roberts Sponge Water filter - MSR Waterworks 1 hand-held flare - red Repair kit - duct tape, multi tool gadget,

4 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

After 28 days on the ice, the kayaks a care package arrived from a Cana- EXPEDITION NEWS were lowered down a 20m terminal dian friend, with a copy of ‘Kabloona ice face onto a river bank on the west- in the Yellow Kayak’ by Victoria Japan Update from Takehiro Shibata ern coast of Greenland. After a short Jason. A young Japanese paddler, Tetuya paddle on glacial fed whitewater, the The trip: In 1990, at the tender age Nogawa, finished his trip around Ja- two kayaks were rafted and the three of 46, Victoria Jason bought her first pan on December 30 1995. Paddling a men, Eric Phillips, Ben Galbriath and kayak and a primer on paddling VCP Pintail kayak, he started and Wade Fairley, with their 200kg cargo strokes. The following year she joined finished at Togawa Harbour, near strapped on top, paddled the final Don Starkell for the start of a planned Choshi. He did the trip totally alone 30kms downstream to their destina- trip from Churchill in Hudson Bay and it took him eight months. He tion, Kangerlussuaq. through the Northwest Passage to paddled outside of Shikoku Island, The combination of ski, kayak, and Tuktoyaktuk, near the mouth of the whereas another circumnavigator, Quadrafoil, proved an extremely light- Mackenzie River. They reached Re- Mikio Inoue, took the Inland Sea pas- weight and innovative form of travel pulse Bay on the Arctic Circle the first sage between Honshu and Shikoku in for the first unassisted sea to sea cross- year, and in 1992 had their kayaks and 1989. ing of Greenland in 20 years. A three equipment towed behind skidoos on Tetuya actually tried the Japan cir- man film crew also spent a month sledges to Spence Bay near the base cumnavigation two years ago in a filming the people, culture and beauty of the Boothia Peninsula. Don and Feathercraft folding kayak, but he quit of East Greenland. The expedition Victoria then hauled their kayaks 109 after a week. The Kujukuri surf was documentary will screen on ABC tel- miles south to Gjoa Haven, where too much for him and his kayak. This evision in Australia and hopefully we Don pushed on solo for Cambridge time he was very well prepared and will get a chance to see this on New Bay and Tuk. Overexertion through was very happy all the time. He never Zealand screens. the kayak hauling, had led to muscle thought of turning back. breakdown, heart strain and edema The interesting thing is that he spent BOOK REVIEW for Victoria. In September, Don was just 300,000 yen (NZ$4,225) in eight rescued on the Tuktoyaktuk Penin- months. That includes alcohol and Title: ‘Kabloona in the Yellow Kayak’ sula with frostbitten fingers and toes, food. Author: Jason, Victoria which were later amputated. He met only two paddlers during Published: 1995 Fully recovered, Victoria paddled his trip but he found your footprints in Publisher: Turnstone Press, Suite 607, down the Mackenzie River to the sea many different places. Fishermen still 100 Arthur St., Winnipeg, Manitoba, in 1993, and soloed eastwards to remember you and also Mikio. Canada, R3B 1H3 Paulatuk. In 1994, she soloed the miss- A funny story. He wanted to have ISBN: 0-88801-201-2 ing leg from Paulatuk to Gjoa Haven. fresh sandwiches for lunches. He was Subject: Woman’s kayak/sled trip spreading jam and peanut butter out through the Northwest Passage; Hud- The book: For me the book was an of a glass bottle while seated in his son Bay to Gjoa Haven with Don inspirational read. From the worst tippy kayak with a low deck. By the Starkell, Gjoa Haven to Fort Provi- possible introduction to sea kayaking, time his sandwich was ready to eat, dence solo. paddling with a temperamental, self- waves washed his deck and his sand- Cover: Hardback ish tyrant who made incredible navi- wich. This happened often, he said. Contents: 298 pages, 5 maps, 33 col- gational blunders, this lady kept her our pics in two sections eyes and ears open, learnt from the GREEN ICE TRAVERSE Size: 170 x 250mm early mistakes, and by 1994 had RRP: US$22.95 evolved into an accomplished, vet- The Australian outdoor magazines Reviewed by: Paul Caffyn eran solo Arctic kayaker. Particularly ‘Wild’ and ‘Out There’ recently car- with her solo trips, all the necessary ried recent a brief report about a team In 1995 I heard of a book by Don attributes for successful expeditioning of Australian paddlers who paddled Starkell, of a kayak trip from Hudson are revealed in the text; thorough re- 110kms from Angmasgssalik down Bay to Tuktoyaktuk, titled ‘Paddle to search and planning, listening care- the East Greenland coast to Isertoq. the Arctic’ and a second kayaking fully to advice of the locals, prior They then hauled their kayaks up onto narrative ‘Kabloona in the Yellow range practise with a shotgun for deal- the Greenland Ice Cap, and using them Kayak’. Don Starkell is better known ing with bears, and optimizing fa- as sleds, crossed 540kms of ice using for his trip from Winnipeg in Canada vourable weather and sea conditions a steerable kite called a Quadrafoil. to the mouth of the Amazon River in while exercising restraint and patience Weighing less than 4kgms, and with a South America with his son in a Cana- on shore in bad weather. surface area of only 4 square metres, dian canoe, and the book ‘Paddle to The text is semi-diary style, but the Quads pulled the Australians and the Amazon’. very readable. I found the short sen- their 80kg kayaks easily, even when I tried to order the two books, how- tence writing style a bit monotonous the wind was as slow as five knots. ever Alpen Books in the USA had after a while, and although there are Half of the total distance across the never heard of the ‘Kabloona’ title. A numerous snippets of Arctic explora- ice cap was covered with the Quads. week later, and totally out to the blue, tion history and the flora and fauna, I

5 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 would have liked more solid meaty POP RIVETS AT SEA 30. After 1.5 hours of battling a 25 descriptions of what transpired at some knot westerly wind, we camped at by Bevan Walker of the areas she paddled through. Her the eastern end of Whale Island and descriptions of the colourful charac- set up camp for the night. We have some of the saltiest water in ters she met and her easy interaction At 5.30am next morning, after the world. Aluminium against steel, in with them are well written. Victoria listening to the latest marine weather sea water, is not a good mix. easily expresses her pleasure and sat- report, we set out for White Island. To illustrate practically the prob- isfaction of capably surviving in what The wind had turned around to the lem, we were at Archway Island, near most people consider a hostile, barren south during the night which, al- Cape Farewell, last summer and had to and cold environment. though behind us, was not very pleas- break out through surf. On reaching Details of Victoria’s early life are ant to paddle with as there was still a clear water, I noticed a lump on the very brief; her first experience of the metre swell from the west. This gave deck of the Feathercraft. On close in- North was in 1961 when her husband us a confused sea to paddle on. How- spection I could see some rivets had was transferred to work on the Hud- ever we made good time and at popped. Back at home I had a close son Bay railway. She was 16 years 11.30am landed on a small beach at look at the pop rivets and could see old, had two babies under two years the eastern side of White Island. steel nail heads left inside the aluminium old, and was trapped in a marriage to I have never seen such a derelict rivets. Within two years of use, the a man she hated. After a divorce in island before. Our small beach sloped aluminium had corroded through, al- 1989, she was working for Canadian gradually into a huge crater, which lowing the rivets to pop. I replaced the National Railways as a keyboard op- had steam rising out of it and a strong remaining corroded rivets with new erator when her love affair with sea smell of sulphur hung in the air. aluminium rivets that had the steel nail kayaking began. A brief quote from Except for our landing beach, the heads punched out. the end of the last chapter, when Vic- crater was surrounded by steep bar- Most kayak manufacturers use pop toria paddled in to Gjoa Haven, sums ren cliffs. At one side were the re- rivets with cadmium coated steel nails up for me how this lady achieved so mains of an old jetty which led up to as part of the aluminium rivet. Within much: the old sulphur factory, which stood days of being used on the sea, the steel in ruins. About a kilometre across I could understand what an abun- nail head will begin to corrode. To the crater lay the spectacular crater dance of respect, determination, and avoid this, punch the steel nail head out lake, a huge mass of boiling water humility could accomplish. of the rivet, leaving the rivet hollow. One map shows the entire route, with large vents which on its far The best rivet is a solid rod of alu- while the four stages are shown in shore, shot huge jets of steam into minium cut to length with both ends slightly more detail. The maps all lack the air. Although the area resembled ball paned over. a scale, and reference to a larger scale something similar to a desert, there When riveting stainless steeel to atlas or ‘National Geographic’ map of was an air of mystic about the place stainless steel, use stainless steel pop Arctic Canada is necessary to locate that had a beauty all of its own. rivets or stainless steel bolts and nuts. many of the areas described in the During the afternoon we paddled Avoid using steel against aluminium. text. The photos, in two colour plate around the island before pitching If you use blind pop rivets, make sections, provide a simple visual our tents on the small beach and sure that the nail head and rivet are of record of the trip, but large white settling down for the night. the same metal. borders diminish the impact of the At 6.30am next morning, we set photos. off back to Whakatane. A 10 knot To conclude, a superb book of an TRIP REPORTS south-easterly was blowing in our inspirational adventure by a remark- faces, which allowed for a comfort- able grandmother. able 8.5 hour paddle back. WHITE ISLAND TRIP N.B. If you plan a trip to land on # I have suggested to Stephen Counsell by Max Grant either Whale or White Island, you at Canoe and Outdoor World that he Date: 30/31 December 1995 must have permission from the De- try and obtain copies for sale. Until Paddlers: Max Grant & Dave partment of Conservation at then all I can suggest is ordering Herrington Whakatane. through specialist books shops, writ- We had planned to complete the Max Grant. ing to the publisher, or asking a friend return trip to White Island in three in North America to mail you a copy. days; to paddle the 4.5 nautical miles from Whakatane to Whale Island where N0T QUITE KAYAKING we would spend the night, then con- from the ‘Christchuch Press’: tinue next day to White Island, a dis- A girlfriend set up a romantic can- tance of 22.5 nautical miles. On the dle-lit dinner on the Heathcote River third day, we hoped to paddle the 27 bank, complete with roses and soft nautical miles back to Whakatane. music. The couple then adjourned After a lot of ‘watching the weather into a canoe, where a bottle of bub- patterns’ we decided to set out to Whale bly was cunningly hidden. The Island on the afternoon of December canoedling couple then drifted down

6 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

the river, apparently oblivious to dle, a demanding 360km race over page account of their northern sum- passers by. The birthday boy must eight days. mer adventures in a Feathercraft fold- have been enjoying himself for a jog- Anyone interested, write to me for ing double, on the Yukon River from ger nearly ran into a tree, and one the brochure or get in touch with: Whitehorse to Dawson, and across motorist drove past three times. World Marathon Championships Prince William Sound from Valdez to S-185 83 Vaxholm, Sweden Whittier. Colur zeroxed photographs, from the ‘net’: Ph: +46 8 541 708 00 sketches and maps round off the ac- It’s common practice in England to Fax: +46 8 541 709 92 count. Stan has also sent a slimmed ring a telephone by extra voltage pass- E-mail: [email protected] down version, of which I will try and ing across one side of the two wire 2. Windrush Sail Rigs (Canada) include the account of the Prince circuit and earth. When a subscriber A brochure and photos of a kayak sail William Sound trip. answers the phone, it switches to the rig, with an outrigger system, mast, 8. SKOANZ Newsletter No. 6 Feb.'96 two wire circuit for the conversation. sails and leeboard. Notes, easily in- This contains a meaty equipment re- This allows two parties on the same stalled on any single hardshell kayak, view of three double kayaks, used in line to be signalled without disturbing equipped with a rudder; collapses eas- the rental business. I will endeavour each other. ily; sails as close to the wind as most to print this in the next newsletter. Anyway an elderly lady with sev- small sailboats; both sails furl easily The next guide assessment course eral pets called to say that her phone from the cockpit. Any one interested, dates are: failed to ring when her friends rang; write to me and I will forward the April 22 - 26 & May 6 - 10 and on the few occasions when it did brochure. Contact Roy Dumble for details: ring, her dog always barked first. 3. Queen Charlotte Islands; Canada Ph (09) 307 9999 The telephone repairman pro- Brochure on guest house Executive Officer Bruce Maunsell has ceeded to the scene, curious to see this accomodation, kayak rentals and been focussing the past few months on: psychic dog. He climbed a nearby guided expeditions 1. Liason with Water Safety Council telephone pole, hooked in his test set 4. Cook Strait Crossing and Maritime Safety Authority and dialed the lady’s number. The The February 1996 ‘Korero’ news- 2. Co-ordination of the Sea Kayak phone didn’t ring. He tried again and letter of the Ruahine White Water Safety Course the dog barked loudly, followed by a Club has a five page article, including 3. Guides Assessment Scheme Re- ringing telephone. photos and a map, of a team of five draft Climbing down from the pole, the paddlers crossing Cook Strait on Janu- 4. Pre Guides Assessment Training telephone repairman found: ary 6, 1996, from Titahi Bay. 5. Approved Operator System a. the dog was tied to the telephone’s 5. Skegs 6. Membership - 34 current SKOANZ ground(earth) pipe via a steel chain The February 1996 ‘Sea Trek’ news- operators and collar letter of the Victorian Sea Kayak Club b. the dog was receiving 90 volts with has an article by South Australian BOOK LAUNCH the signalling current Peter Carter on built in skegs or ‘fins’ On 21 December 1995, Graham c. after several jolts, the dog began as he calls them, and the dynamics of Egarr's book ''s South barking and urinating on the ground. using them. This type skeg is mounted Island Rivers: A guide for canoeists, d. the wet ground then completed the in a skeg box, 20 to 25% of the hull kayakers and rafters' was launched at circuit and the phone would ring. length along the hull from the stern. It Mapua. is raised/lowered with a shock cord or This book was virtually completed FROM MAIL AND push/pull cable from the cockpit. before melanoma took its toll on NEWSLETTERS RECEIVED: Unfortunately the author destroys Graham. It was aimed as a compan- his credibility at the end of the article ion volume to Graham's book 'North by noting: 1. Notification of the 5th ICF World Island Rivers' which was published in a rudder is not for steering, but to Marathon Championships, to be held 1989. trim. Sea kayaks are steered with the August 22 - 25, 1996, at Vaxholm, Over 15 years ago, Graham and his paddle, like all kayaks and canoes. Sweden. To coincide with the cham- wife Jan wrote paddling guides on a For a photcopy of the article send me pionships, three kayaking safaris with regional basis to the rivers of New a few $ of stamps and a stamp ad- varying degrees of demad, will be Zealand. These were published by the dressed envelope. conducted; New Zealand Canoeing Association 6. Folding Kayaker a. a 300km trip from Finland to Sweden and are very difficult to get hold of Vol.6. No.1, Jan/Feb 1996, has a three b. tours in the Stockholm archipelago now, even in secondhand bookshops. page Cyberspace Guide for folding c. day and night trips. If this new South Island book is not kayaks, and an article on the pros and available in your local bookshop, I Kayak rentals for the tours are avail- cons of kite flying. would suggest writing to the pub- able at moderate prices. 7.Kiwi Kayakers in Alaska lisher: One of the major sponsors, the & the Yukon Nikau Press Swedish Navy with the regiment of From Stan and Belinda Mulvany, a Swedish Marines, are also hosting the PO Box 602 delightfully put together A4 size, 37 3rd. International Military Kayak Pad- Nelson.

7 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 TRIP REPORT 22nd January. They would be staying with help, lowered her down about Puysegur Point to Doubtful Sound. in the Preservation to Breaksea area the 6 foot into the water. I hadn’t 22-30 January 1996. until the end of March doing dive trips. practised getting into the kayak from Phil & Max Handford in double sea Normally the ‘Cindy Hardy’ transports this height and its not very beamy at kayak ‘'Endeavour’. crays back to Bluff from Fiordland in 28 inches, I could just see us taking ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 12 the crayfish season and harvests oys- a swim in front of all these people January 1996 turned out to be the start ters in Foveaux Strait. who already thought we must be of the trip of a lifetime for Max and We arrived in Bluff, the day before mad to paddle up this coast. Luckily me. Ever since our first aborted trip to one of those rare balmy hot Southland all went okay. We thanked them for Fiordland in 1992 there had been some days. We’d left Hamilton in shorts and the crays, said we might catch up unfinished business that was going to T-shirts and were still in them. The with them in Dusky and then pad- nag away at me until I had been to ‘Cindy Hardy’ wasn’t leaving until dled the short distance to Cemetery Puysegur Point. Since 1992 we had 10pm so in the morning we loaded or Island. Here we collected our never really been in a position to both gear and secured our 22 foot long ‘En- thoughts and let it sink in that we take three weeks leave from work and deavour’ to the top deck, well out of were actually in Preservation Inlet. this year we thought we could stretch harms way. We claimed the two bunks Once the Cindy Hardy had gone it. And even better, in Spring 1995 it in the ‘honeymoon suite’, had a brew there was just the two of us with one looked like the El Nino weather pat- with the skipper Kevin, and deckhand little kayak in about the most iso- tern had gone and La Nina had arrived Tracker, then set off to explore Bluff lated place in New Zealand. As which meant typically more Easter- and various lookouts overlooking crazy as it seemed, all we had to lies and less Westerlies and ideal for Foveaux Strait. worry about now was being able to paddling in Fiordland. Soon after 10pm a dive party of 15 get out of the place. In 1992, six of us were going to arrived. It started to pour with rain as A SW of 15-20 knots was still paddle in two doubles and two singles we lifted the mooring ropes and left blowing so we decided to run with it from Te Waewae Bay to Doubtful Bluff Wharf at 10.30pm. It was going and paddle up Long Sound, pushing Sound. That February, westerlies to be a long night as it takes 8 to 10 into at least one knot of tide in parts forced us to abort the idea of going hours around to Preservation Inlet. We of Narrow Passage. These were the from south to north and we went up to headed off to bed once we were clear of biggest tides for some time but would Manapouri to start at the Doubtful Bluff heads. Things soon got pretty gradually drop as the days went by. Sound end. We spent so many days in rough with a big SW swell, I spent the We were only going as far as Sandy Doubtful waiting for the weather to night dozing in a state of semicon- Point where there had been an old clear that we ran out of sufficient time sciousness hoping not to get thrown sawmill. This was a bad place to to complete the trip. We never got out of the top bunk. have our first camp. The sandflies past the Hares Ears at the entrance to were horrendous. On the brink of a Doubtful as the SW and NW swell Day One. I set my alarm for 6am as I mutiny we departed as early as we persisted and the NW never seemed to didn’t want to miss going around could the next morning. Fortunately stop blowing. We learnt some valu- Puysegur Point. I got up as we were just nowhere else did we strike such bad able lessons about Fiordland and did passing Big River, still a couple of sandflies. Overnight the wind had come home with memories of sand- hours from Puysegur. There was a good changed from SW to what was to be flies, rain, and NW gales, and forgot 3m SW swell running and Puysegur many days of SE-E winds and clear what the sun looked like, but did end looked as awesome as I had imagined, skies, as a large anticyclone moved up with a good video thanks to Peter as swells crashed onto rocks around the south and remained south of Stewart Garlick. point. It was still drizzling and the Island. Departure date from Hamilton was cloud was down as we steamed around 20 January 1996 and there didn’t ap- the northern side of Coal Island, in a Day Two: Puysegur Point was one pear to be much sign that La Nina had classic dull misty day with poor visibil- of the ‘must visits’, so off we went. arrived in Fiordland. The forecast was ity. By the time we arrived at Cromarty pretty shocking and certainly not pad- We pulled in behind Steep-to Island there was a good 20 knot SE coming dling weather. The old nervousness and dropped the divers off in pairs for out of the bay. We briefly met up and doubts returned as they do on a 30 minute dive, long enough to col- with Peanuts, the Cromarty Lodge these big trips. As much as I would lect plenty of crays, scallops, paua and caretaker, on his way out of the bay like to paddle the southern coast from kina for breakfast. We had already got in a dinghy, head down as he baled Te Waewae Bay to Puysegur Point it to know these Otago-ites from Milton out rain water. The lodge is appar- wasn’t practical as the chances of it and they generously gave us some of ently pretty impressive, although not being suitable at the start of our holi- the catch. One crayfish for dinner and completely finished, it is now on its day were about nil. We were fortunate one for breakfast. Near Cromarty was second owner and rarely used. We to make contact with Gordon Johnston to be our departure point and already didn't want to hang around until Pea- from Campbelltown Seafoods of Bluff the sun was coming out, the skies clear- nut came back to show us around. He who was taking the 60ft ‘Cindy Hardy’ ing and our bodies warming up. We did tell us an American paddler had from Bluff to Preservation Inlet on loaded ‘Endeavour’ on the deck, and recently paddled up the coast around

8 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

Puysegur. I was a bit surprised to hear The wind was enough to keep you wind that was blowing that night had this, as this is only the second time it well back from the cliff edge. The gone, and there was not a cloud in the has been paddled solo. We later view to the south was impressive with sky, in fact when I could see clearly, worked out it was Brian Roberts. the prominent Solander Islands 50 the water was oily calm. We rose We arrived at the Oil Store, as the km in the distance rising steeply up early as it was likely to be a big day. Puysegur landing is known, and en- out of the sea and the swell breaking The sandflies were bad that morning. joyed lunch in the sun on an old boat over the Marshall Rocks south of Max and rice and apricots had a disa- ramp with few sandflies. The build- Puysegur. To the north we could see greement about staying down. We ing that housed boats and various as far as Cape Providence and we were gone by 8.30am on our way to stores is now home to a few old beds could clearly see the swells breaking Gulches Head and our first feel of the and rats, the roof is still good and the on Balleny Reef, offshore from open sea. We paused before entering water tank is still useful. A note on the Gulches Head. Inland there was hardly Gulches Head so Max could have wall from two Nelson paddlers, in- a cloud to be seen, we could see the some more food to replace the miss- cluding Bevan Walker, ‘stuck here prominent entrance to Long Sound ing breakfast. Gulches Head is an for 10 days waiting for the weather’, marked by Narrow Bend and high impressive steep, 500ft high, broken reminded us that we too could be mountains further back. Treble Moun- headland and not a place you feel like delayed getting home. Although tain stands out as a prominent peak hanging around in the swell apart from spending a night here in these condi- between Preservation and Chalky In- a quick photo or two. As we rounded tions was pretty tempting, conditions let. Gulches Head, ahead lay the white on the other side of Puysegur were Paddling back up towards cliffs of Chalky Island which made an quite different. Cromarty we kept on the leeward side impressive sight in the early sun. The graves that have been remarked of Otago Retreat as the SE coming The swell felt good as we pro- at the landing are a reminder of earlier down off the hills around Te Oneroa gressed over to the inside of Chalky hardship; all perished due to drown- was now more like 30 knots with the Island without a breath of wind. ing between 1895 and 1914 when this odd bit of spray being lifted over by Chalky Inlet looked inviting with The area was at its busiest with gold and Coal Island. When we reached the Brothers forming a prominent moun- whaling. James Cromarty is buried point between Te Oneroa and Kisbee tain backdrop. There were places we here, drowned in 1895. Bay, we ran with the wind to the wanted to visit in Chalky but the per- The old tractor track out to the light passage between Coal Island and fect conditions meant we could not house is rapidly growing over and Steep-to Island; it was an exciting pass up an opportunity to get up to subsiding. It is now mainly used by ride and we were quite pleased that Dusky Sound. You feel you are given hunters following removal of the light Steep-to Island provided some shelter these days as a special gift and to think house keepers 15 odd years ago. There for the rest of the paddle across to you will get another tomorrow is be- is plenty of deer sign and fat wood Cavern Head and the bay inside Spit ing foolish. pigeons on the track out to Puysegur. Islands. The rock gardens in Bad Passage On a fine day it is a really beautiful As we arrived the tide was reced- make another variation, but there was walk with surf breaking on the rocks ing and the sand spit out to Spit Is- still some swell pushing in here and a and reefs in Otago Retreat. A sole lands dried. We cooked tea at Spit lot of submerged rocks so we were a crayfisherman, the only one in Pres- Islands where there was ample drift- bit cautious. As we paddled directly ervation over the summer, waited for wood and few sandflies, and returned for Landing Bay inside Cape Provi- his craypot buoys to surface as the to the mainland to camp on the sand dence, the sea was still oily calm, tide turned in the narrow gap between dunes once the sandflies had gone to apart from the swell. At Landing Bay Puysegur and Coal Island. bed. Such a beautiful spot; with its it was low tide and I knew there was a There is only one building remain- gently sloping golden sandy beech reef sheltering the sandy beech, but ing at Puysegur now, all the other and the gold pingau grass on the sand the swell seemed to be breaking well buildings and radio masts have been dunes with bush right down to the out. The gap in the reef is on the dumped over the cliffs into Otago dunes. Easy to see why a small group western side where the waves weren’t Retreat, slowly rusting away and of Maori once had a pa here. The large breaking and although needing care- slowly hidden by the scrub. The light- sandy beach, which is such a feature ful navigation at low tide we reached house is not as big as I’d imagined but of this spot, is now used occasionally calm waters behind the reef. Sitting in has an impressive bank of light bulbs. to land light planes. our kayak inside the reef taking a few The large banks of solar panels, that photos I noticed a shark fin; the la- charge the batteries for the light, are Day Three. As usual the alarm went at goon was full of sharks, obviously very securely attached to the ground 4.55am and I reached over and turned fishing on the incoming tide. Being so to avoid being blown away. The skies my head lamp on, turn the radio on , calm and clear it was like sitting on a were clear but a good 30 knots of SE plugged the earphones in and got out 10 ft deep fish tank with about 20 ft covered the sea in whitecaps and as a note book and pen. Caught the 5am visibility. Grey sharks, six to eight SW swell crashed into the rocks be- news and then the Marine Forecast at foot long, were cruising around us, low the point where the spray was 5.05. ‘Easterly 20 knots, SW swell not particularly interested in us but caught and whisked away by the wind. 2m reducing, outlook, similar’. The maybe a little curious. The fish life

9 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 here was quite amazing. side of Dusky and you lose sight of who it would be. They were coming We lifted the kayak up the beach Cape Providence and all points to the in to restock with fresh water at the ahead of the incoming tide. The kayak south. crayfishermen’s barge and to stop wasn’t getting any lighter. The worst A light tail wind of 10 knots helped the night. They invited us on board thing about paddling a fully laden us along and woke us up. I had calcu- for a shower which we couldn’t say double is that it’s so heavy to lift. My lated our times based on 6.5 km/hr, no to, so collected our gear and pad- worst fear was losing grip and drop- which included stops, and this worked dled the 500m around to the barge. ping it on some rocks and damaging out perfectly as we reached Fannin Bay By this time it was about 9pm so the hull. Lunch, sitting on the beach inside Dusky by 6pm. ‘Duskey’ Bay, after showers, crayfish on bread with was the standard bread, mustard, as Cook named it, looked so soothing. mayonnaise, Speights, leftover roast cheese, salami, cucumber and tomato. Such a huge area of low lying islands and veg, more Speights and a few And occasionally there was a jelly with a backdrop of steep mountains lies, it was well after 11pm. We made the night before. Stopping here over 3000 ft. We paddled to Indian managed to enter the kayak from the gave us time to assess the situation Cove on Indian Island. The sea-breeze boat which was now anchored in the and decide to carry on around Cape that had been helping us along dropped middle of Cascade Cove, and pad- Providence and West Cape into Dusky away to nothing. Indian Cove turned dled off into the dark, much to the Sound. A very light breeze, only out not to be such an exciting place to amusement of the divers. What moon enough to ruffle the surface, came up camp, so we made our 8pm scheduled there was, had gone down, and we and there was still not a cloud to be radio call on SSB mountain radio to the had a little bit of discussion where seen. We got extra food out onto the base and then headed for our camp was but managed to find deck and departed at 1.30pm. Cascade Cove. It wasn’t getting dark the landing without much difficulty. Cape Providence is one of those until after 10pm and by the time we had places where you can be extra cau- set up camp and cooked tea, we didn’t Day Five. The weather was still very tious and go around very wide and get into bed until midnight. settled but there were forecasts of add extra time to the open sea pas- NE in the outlook. We wanted to sage, or dodge inside the offshore Day Four. We had slept well after our paddle up to Breaksea as it looked rocks and breaking reefs and take the big paddle (65km) and decided a climb like the weather might hold long short route. We chose the short route, onto the tops would give the bodies a enough to get up to Doubtful Sound but you are forever watching for boils rest from paddling and a chance to see the following day. With the settled that mark shallow rocks or occasional the beauty of Dusky from another an- weather, it meant we could do the set of swells that are about 3m instead gle. The forecast was still good and the portage at the head of Goose Cove of the average 2m. We bucked our weather was perfect with another clear inside Five Fingers Peninsular and way through here but by the time we day. We chose a steep narrow spur around the top of Resolution Island got to the Providence lighthouse, about behind the beach and climbed clear of into Breaksea. 2 km north, the sea was a lot more the bush and scrub within 2 hours. We took a bit of a zig zag route. comfortable and the breeze had disap- Within 3 hours we were on top of a We visited Pickersgill Harbour and peared to nothing. West Cape (the 3,500 ft peak that gave us views in all Astronomers Point and moored ‘En- western most point of NZ) lay ahead directions, still blues skies and not a deavour’ where Cook had moored and Puysegur had disappeared from breath of wind, it was just unbeliev- ‘Resolution’ for six weeks in 1773. sight astern. Reefs along the coast able. To the west we could see South Then across to Luncheon Cove on protect the rocky beech, much of which Point and Fannin Bay and the swell Anchor Island, where the first Euro- you could walk along. Behind the breaking on Seal Islands and Five Fin- pean house and boat were built in beach, cliffs and steep faces which gers Point. To the north we could see 1792. Here we met an interesting rise up to 1-200 ft and covered in low up into Goose Cove, Earshell Cove, Swedish couple on a yacht who had stunted scrub, block out a view fur- Duck Cove and the entrance to Acheron been sailing around the world for the ther back apart from the distant moun- Passage. To the east where the moun- past three years and had last sailed tains like Mt. Inaccessible, The Stoper tains rise over 5000 ft there was not a into Dusky 10 years ago. We carried and Mt. Bradshaw that rise up to 3500 cloud to be seen. To the south we on to Earshell Cove on Resolution ft about 15 km back from the coast. looked over to the Kakapo Range which Island with its beautiful white We paddled a line direct for West rises up from Edwardson Sound in beaches and brilliant red rata flower- Cape which kept us outside of numer- Chalky. We looked down on Pickersgill ing all around us. We had lunch here, ous offshore reefs along the coast. We Harbour. This was exactly the same but didn’t linger as there was a bit of were well offshore and crayfish bu- view of Dusky Bay that Dr. James wind coming up, and we were get- oys made good stationary points Hector, the provincial geologist of ting behind schedule to catch high against which to gauge our progress. Otago had sketched in 1863 and ap- tide at Goose Cove. We wove our The gentle swell was almost enough pears in John Hall-Jone's book, ‘Fiord- way inside Pigeon Island and into to send us to sleep on this long pas- land Explored’. Facile Harbour for a look, before sage. West Cape itself is unimpres- We had watched the ‘Cindy Hardy’ carrying on around Whidbey Point sive but a major point on the voyage, cruise up the far side of Long Island, so into Goose Cove. as when you pass it you are looking up when we heard a boat coming into There is a 2km tidal estuary at the to Five Fingers Point, on the northern Cascade Cove that evening, we knew head of Goose Cove and the tide

10 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

pushed us in strongly. It was the most of glass. We stopped briefly for a chat more caution. We entered the familiar picturesque place I think we went to with Tracker and replacement skip- ground of Doubtful Sound in good with clear waters, bush down to the per Gordon who warned us of the sea time. This is still one of the grandest water and rata flowers. We only had breezes that can blow up or down the sounds with its wide entrance and to get out of the boat for the last 20m. coastline between Breaksea and steep mountains rising straight up It is a portage of less than 200m to Doubtful. Fortunately we hadn’t cho- thousands of feet. We took some video Woodhen Cove on the Breaksea side sen to paddle up Acheron Passage the of the Hares Ears and swell to com- of Resolution Island. It is all grass and day before as Tracker said there was pare to 1992, then caught a very fast only rises a few metres above sea a 20 knot breeze blowing in Break- 25 knot tail wind to the Shelter Is- level. By the time we had transferred sea. He was quite surprised that we lands, arriving at The Gut Hut on gear and boat to the other side and had had virtually no wind. Secretary Island by 7.30pm. a feed it was 7pm. We departed Breaksea by 10.30, Here we read a log book entry from Paddling out of Woodhen Cove we still no wind and one metre W swell. Brian Roberts that he had spent six saw a hind and fawn grazing the high Coal River was to be our lunch spot. days stuck at Breaksea waiting for the faces of the cove in the evening sun. A tail wind lifted as we neared Coal weather to settle. To paddle from Out into the open sea proper there was River and I was amazed at the way the Puysegur to Doubtful without a break no wind and only about one metre of wind was getting dragged into the in weather still seemed amazing and W swell. Once around into Breaksea, deep bay at Coal River, 15-20 knots here we were with all this food left and the last of the afternoon sea-breeze in the bay while offshore there was even the last of our fresh tomatoes. helped us along. From this angle you nothing. It was pretty much a W swell get views of the rugged outside of coming straight into the bay and so it Day Seven: Still a fine day and a Breaksea Island with its many pinna- didn’t make much difference where leisurely paddle down Doubtful Sound cles and vertical faces rising up out of we landed on the 1km long black to Olphert Bay opposite Elizabeth Is- the ocean. We paddled inside Gilbert sandy beach. Its is quite shallow so land. The 20+ knot following sea- Islands and set up camp at a sandy we had a double break to get through, breeze made it pretty easy paddling beach inside Disappointment Cove but only broached once coming into although we had to watch for gusts on Resolution Island. It was after 8.30 the beach. We lifted the boat up the and the odd bit of spray was being and we had missed our radio sched. beach and then climbed up onto the lifted down by Elizabeth Island. I was The bird life on Resolution is impres- high sand dunes for lunch amongst a bit concerned that Fiordland Travel sive but the deer population seems to the Pingau grass. Behind the dunes might not ferry our kayak from Deep have exploded and the undergrowth lay the tidal estuary of Coal River and Cove over Wilmot Pass to West Arm has been grazed very hard. a big wide valley ran back to the after reading some comments in The mountains at the end of the valley. Gut Hut. As I found out that night, that Day Six. We awoke to an even better Paddling back out of the bay into a was the case. The old Leyland bus we forecast of variable 10 knot winds and head wind wasn’t too bad as we knew used in 1992 was now obsolete. one metre SW swell, with a similar it would be better outside. Once outlook. We were packed and gone by around the point it returned to the one Day Eight: We packed the kayak in a 9am on our way to Doubtful Sound. metre swell with no wind. We were light drizzle, the first rain since day There was low cloud around the hills able to keep closer to shore which one, and paddled off into the mist and but this was burnt off by 10.30. Break- made the trip more interesting pad- Deep Cove. At Deep Cove we met up sea Sound has much higher moun- dling inside the various rocks that lie with Daphne, on a Fiordland Wilder- tains rising up out of the sea than the along this coast. The coastline is all ness guided kayaking trip, who kindly outer parts of Preservation and Dusky. pretty much the same but none the offered to give us a lift over the pass We paddled over to Entry Island and less impressive with the mountains the next day. In the meantime we met the entrance of Acheron Passage hop- rising straight up out of the sea to up with David and Fiona who look ing for a good view down the passage open tops and lower down, heavy after the Deep Cove Hostel and they but with the low cloud and darkness it bush sprinkled with red Rata flower. generously offered to put our kayak didn’t look as impressive as we had Certainly not much coastline like this on the trailer when they went over to hoped, just rather gloomy. around. the power station that afternoon. By We knew the ‘Cindy Hardy’ was There wasn’t the sea-breeze going 2pm we were at West Arm, Lake going to be in Breaksea at Sunday into Dagg Sound that I expected and Manapouri among the sandflies. We Cove, the same night we were, to we stopped off Castoff Point for a rest were promptly in our kayak and gone change dive parties, but didn’t think and snack. The entrance to Dagg within 20 minutes. The last two hours we would meet up. Shortly after, the looks an unfriendly place and obvi- of our crossing to Manapouri town- ‘Cindy Hardy’ appeared from Sun- ously a long way inland to any decent ship was the worst two hours of our day Cove, another crayfishermen’s landing. Paddling on from Dagg whole trip as we battled a head wind. base, and headed for Entry Island. It Sound, the sea-breeze increased to The last 30 minutes of gale and driv- made a great scene; this large wooden the point that it was pushing us along ing rain into Manapouri confirmed we fishing boat heading out in the mist; well; the white caps were increasing had got out just in time. the dark mountains behind on a sea in number and size. Stopping to eat Phil Handford that was so calm, it looked like a piece and drink had to be done with a bit

11 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

12 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

TRIBUTE TO RUSSEL GINN perfectly.{This was the kayak Russel A late starter by nature, Russel like FRIEND AND KAYAKER paddled at the 1995 KASK Forum}. fossicking around, enjoying where he For convenience, in the last few years, happened to be; windy days off were by Conrad Edwards Russel also paddled his lighter fibre- not wasted on him. For such occa- glass Puysegur and Arctic Raider; but sions, he carried an umbrella, and It is with great sadness that I record he took greatest pride in his wooden always a book of poetry. Only once the death of Russel Ginn, peacefully craft. He was a great believer in the does anyone recall Russel approach- at his home in Titahi Bay in January skeg rather than the rudder; he fitted ing anger: being woken an hour too 1996. Russel, a veteran sea kayaker, his Hereshoffs with adjustable skegs, early for a dawn start. Otherwise, will have been known to many of you. and was adept in their use. whether up to his neck in water or Reserved and thoughtful, with a In 1983, Russel had his first long shivering in a howling gale, Russel delightful, sly humour and turn of kayaking trip, transferring his tramp- was impeccably polite and composed. phrase, Russel loved the sea, the moun- ing and hunting gear to the Hereshoff, However, once on the water, Russel tains, poetry and music. He was a and setting off with David and Jo was off; paddling comfortably and family man: his wife Ellinore, as flam- Banks to Mount Stokes (an unusually with a full head of steam, he did not boyant as Russel was quiet, died in high objective for a kayak trip), via want to stop, and would keep going 1995, and he is succeeded by their Picton and Keneperu Sound. In the into the evening. Not bad, for an ol’ daughters and their families. He also following decade, averaging at least fella with one lung. Russel circum- loved solitude, and reading and mus- two trips a year, Russel developed a navigated D’Urville Island while in ing on voyages and exploration: mari- love and intimate knowledge of New his early 70’s. Tony Jennings, en- time, desert, polar and historic. This Zealand’s beautiful rivers, lakes and countering Russel on the water many tribute focuses on the kayaking side coastlines; Abel Tasman National a time around Mana Island and of Russel’s long and interesting life, Park, Lakes Taupo and Plimmerton, was surprised to find on although it can only hint at aspects of Waikaremoana, the Wanganui River, his death, just how old he was. it. I write it for Russel, and on behalf but especially the Marlborough Russel paddled often around his of his kayaking friends. Sounds. He knew practically every Titahi Bay base. He enjoyed the tran- Russel had since the 1950’s forged bay and camp site, every sound and quillity of the Porirua and Pauatahanui the family dream of building an ocean reach. Russel occasionally travelled inlets, as much as the stark beauty of going yacht and sailing the family off solo but mostly with groups of friends, the coast and Mana Island. Keeping a in it. Ages were spent in detailed especially Mike and Kathy Peers, boat in his shed on Titahi Bay beach, plans, stacks of timber were purchased, David and Jo Banks, Hugh MacRae, in the luxury of retirement he would but the keel was never laid - only but many others also. often paddle to one of the neighbour- some small sailing dinghies eventu- Despite his companion’s com- ing bays for lunch. Mike Peers, who ated. Russel commenced kayaking plaints, Russel insisted on paddling in has survived more trips with Russel around 1970, initially in long, broad his oldest, most worn cottons, wool- than anyone, recalls with equal pleas- wood and canvas craft that he and lens and oilskins. After a day’s pad- ure, their chance encounters while some neighbours built and used in the dling, he would let them dry on him, paddling separately around the rocks Titahi Bay surf. He increasingly mar- before eventually changing into his of Titahi Bay, usually resulting in velled at the elegant simplicity of kay- Paisley pyjamas, keeping the ‘going them paddling together into the aks, their freedom and versatility. A home’ clothes’ he always carried for evening. Russel also acted as the local boat so small that it could be manhan- that purpose alone. Russel satisfied kayaker’s guardian, keeping a watch- dled with ease, so seaworthy it could his impressive appetite with solid ful eye - with his powerful vintage ride out gales, and so easily propelled home-made bread, eaten with cheese binoculars - from his clifftop home that long tours were possible. Early in and dates, and washed down with for any overdue paddlers, and meet- his kayaking life, Russel would act as wine or a whisky and ginger wine mix ing them on the beach after long trips. if sailing a ketch, choosing campsites - sipped from a glass of course. When For myself, the memories I cherish for their anchorage potential, but he the resultant warmth reached his toes, most of many are of cosy winter eve- soon shrugged off the constraints of it was time for bed. nings at Russel’s, chatting with him in sail. His only expressed regret was Russel enjoyed his sleep on trips, front of the fire - armchair kayaking - that he had not discovered the poten- unpeturbed by his dogs. One night perhaps with a glass of wine or a book tial of sea kayaking earlier. Mike Peers mistook a tube of poison of poetry, always with humour and In the late 1970’s Russel con- for toothpaste. With a swollen tongue, friendship. I miss him. structed his first wooden Hereshoff Mike woke Russel, who slowly put Russel had many dreams that will kayak, a five-planked clinker design his reading glasses on and examined now not be realized: to continue his that he modified to three-planked the tube. “One thinks it would take a explorations of the Marlborough stitch-and-glue: at 16’ and 80lbs, it considerable amount of this to be fa- Sounds and other coasts, and to pad- was affectionately known as the bat- tal, Mike”, he concluded, as he dle across Cook Strait {see the corre- tleship. He constructed two more, dropped back to sleep. Endless cups spondence in the last newsletter lower and shorter, the final white ver- of tea were required to coax a grumpy No.60}. Neither will the massive tim- sion so fine tuned that it fitted him Mr. G to strike camp in the morning. bers in his back yard ever form the

13 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996 keel of his yacht. But his lately devel- Speakers: Speakers include Cathye in this overnight paddle, please bring oped love of sea kayaking had prob- Haddock, Conrad Edwards, John Kirk- paddling gear, camping gear, cook- ably superseded that dream, anyway. Anderson, Stephen Counsell, Mark ing & eating utensils. Forty tent sites Change was his mistress, Chance his Hutson and a local representative of are booked for KASK. There a dou- counsellor DOC. Brian Roberts, the recent South ble garage for shelter and cooking. Love could not hold him, Duty forged Island circumnavigator, will present a There is no power. A key is available no chain; talk show and slide show of his solo, to anyone who prefers to drive to the The wide seas and mountains called unsupported trip. Kayak manufactur- site, however no camper vans or him ers who have responded to Peter’s invi- vehicles are allowed to remain in the And grey dawn saw his camp fire in tation to demonstrate their boats at the camp area (there is a car park up the the rain. ‘Show and Tell’ include Quality Kay- hill a bit). Anon, from Russel’s collection. aks and Paddling Perfection. As an epitaph what could be more appropriate than that chosen by his Kayak Hire: As well as Alastair Rynn Reminder family: (see p.1), Marlborough Sounds Ad- Russel, ‘the oceans, the mountains venture Co. are willing to provide a Please notify Peter Sullivan of your and spacious quietude salute you. forum discount of 20% on kayaks (at intention to attend the forum. Num- Your friends do too. $32 per person per day) and equip- bers are necessary to arrange the Conrad Edwards, ment. Boats available include: catering. The forum notification was 15 March 1996. singles - Puffins and Sea Quests included in Newsletter No.60. Pe- doubles - Sea Bear, Southern Light and ter’s address and contact numbers Dusky Bay are included with the newsletter in- # Please make your own prior booking formation. arrangements for kayak rental, contact KASK HANDBOOK Dave Wilson, FORUM TIMETABLE The handbook is shaping up well with Marl.Snds. Advent. Co: The Tentative Timetable for the Pic- Peter Sullivan’s time and effort. A 1 Russell St, Picton; ton Forum is included on page 15. final editing session plus obtaining PO Box 195, Picton quotes for printing an intitial run of Tel: (03) 573 6078 200 is planned for March, with a Fax: (03) 573 8827 Suppliers of Nautical Pilots launching scheduled at the KASK A note from Conrad Edwards to say Picton forum. Big thanks to all those Accomodation: Unfortunately we can Transport Pacific Marine have a good who contributed and proof read. not ‘live in’ at the Picton Yacht Club selection of Pilots, with an overnight rooms. The closest motel/cabin/camp- supply service (provided you have KASK PICTON FORUM UPDATE ing accomodation is the Blue Anchor plastic money). British Admiralty Information for this years KASK Fo- Holiday Park. approx. 5 minutes walk Pilots and Sailing Directions rum, from organizer, Peter Sullivan: from the yacht club. The address is (Canada), plus supplements updat- 70 - 78 Waikawa Rd., Picton. ing information are available. They Tentative Cost at present: $75 per Ph/Fax: (03) 573 7212 are not cheap, approximately head which will include the evening Costs are as follows:Motel units - NZ$100, but they are the start point meal on Friday night, three lunches, first 2 persons $68, extra adults $12each for planning an expedition. camp fees at Mistletoe Bay, venue (sleep 5) The address: hire, and a copy of the KASK Hand- Tourist flats - first 2 persons $53, Trans Pacific Marine Ltd. book. This cost is subject to a con- extra adults $12 each. (sleep 2 > 5) PO Box 1874 firmed quote from the caterers. Tourist cabin - first 2 persons $42, 121 Beaumont St extra adults $12 each.(1D/bed, 4 bunks, Westhaven Venue: Queen Charlotte Yacht Club. supply own bedding) Auckland Ray Forsyth has offered to open the Standard cabin - first 2 persons $32, Ph: (09) 303 1459 club rooms early and will act as sort of extra adults $12 each. (sleep 4 > 8, Fax: (09) 307 8170 resident caretaker to keep an eye on supply bedding & utensils) Freephone: (0508) 800 600 stored kayaks etc. It is a green build- Caravan/tent sites - first 2 persons ing on the water’s edge, due east across $18, extra adults $9 each. Old editions of Pilots and Sailing the sound from the ferry terminal, and # Please make your own bookings Direction often contain more perti- just past the old scow ‘Echo’. Kayaks for accomodation this year. nent information for kayakers; can be stored inside overnight for sources of freshwater, boat landings security. There is ample parking. Overnight Trip to Mistletoe Bay etc. Nautical sections of New Zea- At 3.30pm on Saturday 27 April, we land second hand bookshops are the Date: from 4pm, Thursday 25 April to will depart by kayak in several small place to find them, generally at a 1pm Sunday 28 April. groups for Mistletoe Bay. The paddle fraction of the cost of new Pilots. will take 1.5 to two hours. Participants

14 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

15 The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. 61 February - March 1996

If undelivered, please return to Sandy Ferguson: 12 Dunn St., Christchurch 2.

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