Notes

Introduction

1. Kathy Davis (2002) makes a similar point. 2. The DSM-IV definition of Narcissistic Personality Disorder describes the sufferer as ‘often preoccupied with fantasies of unlimited success, power, brilliance, beauty, or ideal love’ and of possessing ‘inflated judgments’ of themselves (1994, p. 658). 3. Thirty in- depth semi- structured interviews were conducted in 2011 with women whose children were attending childcare centres in Melbourne, Australia. The study recruited participants from three geographically dispersed childcare centres with different economic, ethnic and social compositions. The research was funded by the Australian Research Council, and has ethics clearance from the Monash University Human Research Ethics Committee.

1 Modern Vanity: Consumption, the Body Beautiful and the New Political Subject

1. Having emerged from around 1818 as an art form, poses plastique borrowed from a range of aesthetic traditions and contexts including art, sculpture, statuary, pleasure gardens and, more loosely, tableaux vivants. The form also evolved stylistically alongside a variety of literary movements, especially Symbolism, Realism and Naturalism. See Nicole Anae (2008). ‘Poses, plastiques: the art and style of “statuary” in Victorian visual theatre’. Australasian Drama Studies, 52 (April 2008), 112–30.

4 Enacting ‘Reality’: Fat Shame, Admiration and Reflexivity

1. Versions of the show have been aired in the US, Australia, Asia, the Arab world, Brazil, Finland, Germany, Hungary, India, Israel, Mexico, the Netherlands, the Philippines, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Scandinavia, Slovakia, South Africa, Sweden, Ukraine and the UK. 2. For a discussion of the ‘Americanness’ of the televisual makeover genre see Weber, Brenda (2009). Makeover nation: Americanness, neoliberalism, and the citizen- subject. In Makeover TV: selfhood, citizenship and celebrity (pp. 38–79). Durham: Duke UP. 3. For critical approaches to the obesity epidemic see, for example, Evans, Evans & Rich, 2003; Evans, Rich & Davies, 2004; Fullagar, 2002; Gard & Wright, 2001, 2005; Kirk, 2006; Saguy & Riley, 2005; Wright & Burrows, 2005. 4. This description is drawn from a scene in the first episode of Season 11 of The Biggest Loser (Australia).

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Historical Serials

Adelaide Register Advance Australia Ararat Advertiser Sandow’s Magazine of Physical Culture The New Idea Vanity Fair Woman’s Sphere Index

A B Abelson, Elaine, 39 Bakardjieva, Maria, 158 achievement vanity, 25 Bauman, Zygmunt, 88 advertising standards bodies beauty, 1–2, 5–8, 12–14, 18–19, 23, in Australia and UK, 110 49, 51–3, 56, 128, 178 The Aftermath of Feminism: Gender, feminine, 47, 50, 106–7 culture and social change –health nexus, 60–87 (McRobbie), 7, 11 natural, 38 ageing participation of women in practices, active, 89 130 medical discourse on, 88 physical, 58 medical perspectives on, 90 The Beauty Myth (Wolf), 7, 71 negative effects of, 91 being younger, 102–10 negative impact on social status, The Biggest Loser, 115–18, 157–8, 181 90–1 article in Star magazine, 122 participation of Western societies beginning of new season, 123–32 against, 115 celebrity trainers in show, 121 alcoholics anonymous (AA), 123–4 final revelation and post-The Biggest ‘all-about-me’ phenomenon, 176 Loser, 137–43 anti-ageing medicine, 19, 92–101, formatting of shows across seasons, 110–12 120 anti-fat, 148–9 journey through pain, 132–7 anxiety part of contemporary Western about feminisation of culture, 32 societies, 120 over Western consumer culture speculation over popularity of, 121 influence, 31 telecast of first season in 2004, 119 appearance, 52, 56 bikini- clad image, of Mirren, 102, 108 of ageing, 99, 102–3 bio- citizens, 131 attention on body, 68 Blessing, Jennifer, 36 external, 67 blogger(s), 152 focus on women’s relationship to, 3 narcissus in digital pool, 160–4 male consumer practices, 21 vain individualist or interactive self, natural, 129 164–8 new goods and glossy, 59 blogging, 1–2, 16, 20, 117, 149, 152, normative, 138 161, 172 power of, 40–1 form of autobiography, 172 arrogance, 8 linking to vanity, 160 Astbury, Jill, 39 media coverage of, 164 audiences, impact of reality shows modern, 165 on, 143 as narcissistic, 162, 164, 170 Australasian Women’s Association, 55 negative characterisation of, 162 Australian Magazine, 104 in public discourse, 164 autonomy, 2, 15, 145 blogs, 152, 154, 160–1

204 Index 205 bodily improvement, 66 consumption, 12, 24 body(ies) of health-related goods and dissatisfaction in Western societies activities, 86 over size, 63 vanity of, 28–33 emphasis on ongoing contemporary male fitness magazines, transformative work on, 65 61 of manual worker, 75–6 contemporary resistance production of visibly healthy, 63 to ageing, 114 of right size and appearance, 65 contested beauty practices site for materialisation and to fit female body, 69–78 management, 60 cosmetic products, for men, 79 transformation through physical cosmetic surgery, 2, 5–6, 10, 26, 71, culture, 58 76–7, 100, 129 Body mass index (BMI), 64, 148 makeover programmes, 118 Bordo, Susan, 7, 64, 67, 71, 78, 80–1, Cosmopolitan magazine, 82 87 costume bourgeoisie, 51 histories of, 52 Brabazon, Tara, 152, 166 Craig, Maxine, 62 Braidotti, R., 11, 13–14, 16–17, 20, crisis of masculinity, 79 150, 158, 164, 185 CRM Magazine, 166 Bridges, Michelle, 135 cultural discourses, 111 Buckley, Cheryl, 37 cultural studies, 6–9 Buffardi, Laura, 154 The Culture of Narcissism (Lasch), 1, 9 cyberbullying, 153 C cyberperformer, 157 Calender Girls magazine, 106 call centre, Indian, 31 D Campbell, K., 26–8, 130, 139, 148, Danahay, Martin, 7, 35 151–4, 161, 163, 176, 179 digital narcissism, 152, 164 Cartesian split, 64 digital self- production, 174 celebrated mode of vanity, 132 digital selves, 94, 152–3, 158–60, celebrity(ies), 1, 4, 17, 20, 24, 27, 37, 162–4, 173–5 41, 50, 121, 139–40, 142, 148–9 discourses, of men’s health, 86 Chaney, David, 172 Dobson, Amy, 157 charlatan, 95 Douglas, Mary, 70 childhood obesity, 17 Dumova, Tatyana, 155 Cohen, Kris, 161–3, 171, 174 Dvorak, John, 165 compulsive consumption, 25 confession, 125 E conspiracy theory, 12 eBay, 176 consumer(s), 23 economic independence, 13, 33, 79 contemporary, 23, 56 elite social class, 51 cultures, 3, 22, 30, 61–2 Ellis, Havelock, 5 dictate production, 27–8 employment for older workers, access excess, 30–1 to, 91 green, 24 England, Kim, 132 practices, 22, 59 enlightenment reason, 21 producers, 3 evolution, 33 vanity, 25 excess consumption, 25, 30–1 206 Index exposed female, 48 Grosz, Elizabeth, 64 exposure, 125 gym, 75 extravagant dress, 51 creation of social spaces for women, 85 F Facebook, 3, 28, 154–5, 157 H face- to- face communication, 156 hard bodies of men, redesigning new, The Famine Within (Gilday), 69 78–81 fashion, 51, 53 health, 14, 18, 24, 26, 72 fashionable dress, 55 beauty nexus, 59–87 fat conscious women, 38, 58 activism, 75 modern discourses of, 48 anti, 148–9 modern investments in, 43 politics of, 70 healthy body(ies), 85–7 Fat is a feminist issue (Orbach), 69 contemporary emphasis on, 88 faux feminism, 11 healthy lifestyle, notion of, 143 Fawcett, Hilary, 37 healthy selves, 85–7 Featherstone, Mike, 61–2, 64–6 heterosexual sex, 82 feedback loop, 151 Hilton, Paris, 27 feeling good logic, 61 The History of Vanity (Woodforde), 1 Felski, Rita, 40 Howard, Reverend Henry, 42–3 female fat, 70 Humphery, Kim, 28 feminine false consciousness, 86 hydraulic masculinity, 111 feminine vanity, 58 hypocrisy, 8 femininity, contemporary, 13 feminism, 11 I second wave rise, 86 inauthenticity, 8 fight against ageing, 115 inner body, improvement in working fit female body, 69–78 of, 64–5 fitness culture, 61, 68–9, 85, 115 internal signs, of health and fitness magazines, of men’s, 67–8, 81 self-discipline, 64 Foucault, M., 10–11, 15, 84, 178 international women’s suffrage Fraser, S., 2, 5–6, 8, 10, 76–7, 91, movement, 33 100–1, 130, 179 internet, 26–7, 158, 161–2 futile, 4 intimate confessions, 123–32 iPhone, 31 G Gabriel, Yiannis, 24 J gender, 11–12 Jeffreys, Sheila, 71 gendered embodiment, 113–14 Journal of the American Medical gender of modernity, 33–40 Association ( JAMA), 93–5, 98, 111 Gilbert, Charles Allan, 34–5 Gilman, Sander, 8, 21, 88, 102 K glamour, 1, 38, 105 Kant, Immanuel, 21 Goldstein, Vida, 54–6 Kaufman, S., 89, 91, 93, 98, 114 ‘good vanities of the self,’ 179 Kelly, Veronica, 37 Graves, Robert, 5, 178 Kent, Jennifer, 24 Gray, Ian, 132 kleptomania disease, among women, 39 green consumer, 24 Kotronias, Efthymios, 175 Index 207

L Miller, Peter, 15, 185 La Milo, 47 Mirren, Helen, 102–9, 183 Lancet, 19, 93–4, 96, 98 modernity Lang, Tim, 24 gender of, 33–40 Lasch, Christopher, 1, 9, 26, 28, 178–9 individual experiences of, 32 Law, John, 20 Modern Milo, 47–9 Lawrence, Geoffrey, 132 moral panic, 62 Leong, Sandra, 159 Murray, Samantha, 70 Lewis, Tania, 120 mutual dependence, of mind and Life magazine, 34 body, 64 longer- lasting sex, 112–13 Myers, Norman, 24 look, importance of, 67 MySpace, 162 looking younger, 102–10 Luciano, Lynne, 79 N narcissism, 175 M contest over online, 155–60 macrocosm, 70 in cultural studies and sociology, makeover programmes, on cosmetic 6–9 surgery, 118 definition of, 4–5 Making the Body Beautiful (Gilman), 88 digital (see Digital narcissism) male behaviours, 83–4 increase in second half of twentieth male sexual change, 112 century, 154 male sexual dysfunction, 112 The Narcissism Epidemic (Twenge and Malignant Self Love: Narcissism Campbell), 26, 161 Revisited (Vaknin), 161 Narcissism Reader (Gaitinidis and manly muscles, importance of, 82 Curk), 179–80 manual worker body, 75–6 nationalism, 33 Martin, Wayne, 29 near- naked female bodies, 47 Martin, Wendy, 89 near- naked female performances, 46–7 masculine hard- body, maintenance neoliberal individualism, 1 of, 84 neoliberalism, 23 masculinity, contemporary, 13 Netemeyer, Richard, 25–6 materialization, of visibly healthy new acceptable vanities, 66 body, 66–7 New Atlantis, 151 Matthews, Jill Julius, 32, 51 new forms McRobbie, Angela, 11–14, 16, 71–2 of digital vanity, 176 meatless immortality, 159 newness, 88 media platforms, new, 155 new social spaces, creation for women medical discourse, on ageing, 88 in gym, 85 medicalised material body, 2 normal consumption, 25 Medical Journal of Australia (MJA), 93–4, 98–9, 111 O medicine, anti- ageing, 92–100 obesity, 17, 73, 127–8, 140, 143, 149, Mehdizadeh, Soraya, 154–6 186n3 Men’s Fitness and Muscle and Fitness childhood and adult, 121 magazine, 67–8 among women, 73 Men’s Health magazine, 67, 81–5 global, 74 microcosm, 70 increasing rates of, 18, 62 middle-class women, 39 offline interactions, 156–7 208 Index

‘of no value or profit,’ 4. See also Prime Suspect (TV show), 106 Vanity products, of looking/being younger, old age, 90 102–10 older- age sex, 111 prostitution, 97 old gendered dilemmas, 113–15 public celebration, of exposed female, online interactions, 154, 158 48 online intimacy, 154 public commercial spaces, 35 online narcissism, contest over, public discussion, of beauty practices, 155–60 71 online platforms, 156 public exposure, 123–32 online selves, 151, 174 public- health discourse oral sex, 82 contemporary power and influence Orbach, Susie, 62, 75 of, 128 overweight, 63, 67, 72–5, 83, 90, 103, of slenderness and fitness, 72 125, 127–8 Pudner, Karen, 154

P Q Padley, Ben, 166 quack, 95 pain, journey through, 132–7 The Queen (film), 106 paintings, in Vanitas tradition, 29 Parkins, Wendy, 55 R PC Magazine, 165 racial purity, 33 Pentney, Beth, 136, 142 Raisborough, J., 107, 158, 163, 176–7 perfect bodies, 41–50 reality television programmes, 1–2, perfect minds, 41–50 116. See also The Biggest Loser personal web site, construction and red bikini, 19, 52, 102–5, 107–8, 183 posting of, 153 redesigning men, 78–81 photographic booths, 38 reflexivity of self, 2, 132–7 photographic competitions, 38 reliable alliance, bloggers levels of, photographic event, 38, 52 162 photographic studios, 38 remaking of self, 132–7 physical attractiveness, 26 repressive tolerance, 30 physical body, 70 responsibilising process, 125 physical culture, 58 Rosen, Christine, 151 movement, 22 Rose, Nikolas, 3–4, 15, 76, 185 physical survival into old age, in Ryan, Elizabeth, 56 contemporary Western societies, 60–1 S physical vanity, 25 Sandow, Eugen, 22, 33, 41–50, 58 pleasures, 2 Scottish Daily Record, 107 political leverage, 58 The Second Sex (de Beauvoir), 7 politically minded women, 58 second wave feminism, rise of, 86 politics, 54–5, 78 self, new vanities and practices of, body, 78 168–75 of fat, 70 self- absorption, 2 public, 56 self- affirmation, 26 of sexual difference, 55 self- awareness, 59 post- feminism, 11, 13 self- confidence, 8 power, 14 self- contemplation, 2 Index 209

self-creation, 153 Star magazine, 122 self-discovery, 135 Straits Times, 159 self-esteem, 5 suffragists, women, 40, 50, 53–4, 56–7 self-estimation, 8 Sullivan, Margaret, 143 self-expression, 2–3 Sunday Times, 105, 108 self-help, 59 The Swan and Extreme Makeover, 118 self-help movement, 10 self-improvement, 21 T Western projects of, 22 technologies of the self concept, 10 self- knowledge, 2 Tickner, Lisa, 40, 53–4 self-love, 132 The Times, 106 self online, 153–60 Times Higher Education Supplement self-production, 27 (Luckhurst), 167 self-promotion, 2, 155, 160 TODAY.com, 140 self-realisation, 125 tracing self-scrutiny, 135 of vanity, approach and method self-transformation, 27 for, 9–17 Sender, Katherine, 143 transformational politics, 15 ‘sex for life,’ 110 Turkle, Sherry, 173–4, 177 sexual activity, 102 Twenge, J., 26–8, 130, 139, 148, sexual allure, 102 151–4, 161, 163, 176, 179 sexual capacities, of aging men, 110 twenty-first-century consumers, 57–9 sexual desirability, 102 Tyler, Imogen, 56, 65, 76 sexual difference, 33, 55 sexual dysfunctions, 110 U sexual freedom, 13 Unbearable Weight (Bordo), 7, 69 sexualised self- presentation, of young user-generated content, 3 women, 153 sexuality, 11–12 V sexual performances, 111 Vaknin, Sam, 161–2 sexual potency, 112 Van Dijck, José, 172–3, 174 shame, 125 vanity, 170 Slater, Don, 23 of consumption (see Consumption, social body, 70 vanity of ) social construction, of old age, 90 cosmetic surgery rise impact on, 2 social discourses, 111 in cultural studies and sociology, 6–9 social integration, bloggers levels of, definition of, 4–6, 179 162 gendered cultural trajectories of, 4 social networkers, 155 mobilisation of, 1 social networking sites, online, 1, 3, 151 movement between self- production concerns in, 153 and judgments, 28 diagnostic psychological studies on publishing, 152 impact of, 154 scales, 25 hoped- for possible selves, 156 Vanity Fair magazine, 49 sociology, 6–9 Veyne, Paul, 15 soft bodies of men, redesigning new, viagra, 2, 19, 92, 101–2, 112–13 78–81 Victorian era, 38–9 Stallone, Sylvester, 79 virtual communities, 176 standard of vanity, 27 virtue, as vanity, 61 210 Index

W fitness discourse, 114 Wann, Marilyn, 128 images in leisure pursuits, 37 Western culture(s), 1, 30, 68, 81 impact on enhancement of natural Western neoliberal societies beauty, 38 anti- ageing products use in, 102 marriage rates among young, 36 physical survival into old age, 60 meeting in political matters, 36 vanity in, 31–2 middle-class, 39 Whitty, Monica, 157 near- naked performances of ideal Williams, Rosalind, 35 modern, 46–7 Wilson, Elizabeth, 30, 51 notion of natural propensity, 36 Wolsey, Barbara, 37 projects of self- improvement, 37–8 Woman’s Day, Australian magazine, suffragists, 40, 50, 53 121 women’s gym, 68 women Woodforde, John, 1, 7, 108 achievement of balance between worthless, 4 masculinity and femininity, 56 consumer culture impact, 40 Y description of shopping by, 39 yoga, 75 distinction between healthy and young children, 63 beautiful body, 61 economic independence among, 3, Z 33, 79 Zdanow, Carla, 154, 157