BonitoText and photos by Pierre Constant Caves — in Brazil

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Gruta do Mimoso cave entrance (above); Scenery of Serra da Bodoquena on the way to Bodoquena (top right). PREVIOUS PAGE: Dive guide Tuta inspects stalagmite cones in Gruta do Mimoso

— “Moro num país tropical, abençoado In July 2019, I took a domestic flight por Deus e bonito por natureza …” (“I from Sao Paulo to Campo Grande, am born in a tropical country, blessed where I hired a car at the airport. On the Located west of Bonito and by God and beautiful by nature…”) So pleasant 300km drive to Bonito, I passed Bodoquena is Serra da Bodoquena—a goes the famous song by the popular endless fields of transgenic corn and the weathered limestone plateau of both Brazilian musician Jorge Ben Jor. green pastures of zebu cattle farms. carbonatic and terrigenous rock in the The little town of Bonito is a tourist attrac- Corumbá Group (formed 580 million Did you say, “Bonito”? I had tion for Brazilians and a self-proclaimed years ago in the Ediacaran Period of never heard of this place. A ecotourism wonderland. Everything is the Neoproterozoic Era). The sedimen- geared to serve the “bona fide” tourist, tary deposits followed a period when Brazilian diver I met in the not the cave diver. Here, local agencies the planet was subject to intense gla- Galapagos Islands referred to control the game. You cannot access ciation. An ocean formed through the it as the capital of cave div- any place without going through an separation of the African and South ing in Brazil, located south of agent, who will eventually hand you a American continental masses, formerly voucher for any activity you can think of. joined in the Rodinia supercontinent. the Pantanal wetlands in Mato Furthermore, a rental car proved to be a The second chapter in the geologi- Grosso do Sul—a state border- real necessity in Bonito if one wanted to cal history of the region took place 60 Pantanal marsh deer, Blastocerus ing Bolivia and Paraguay. access all the sites. million years ago (in the Cenozoic Era) View of Lagoa Misteriosa spring (above); Caracara bird of dichotomus, Serra da Bodoquena prey, Caracara plancus, in Mato Grosso do Sul (center)

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cies of the of farmland, with Brahman cows, THIS PAGE: Scenes from Lagoa Misteriosa; Dive guide Iago Siluriformes "gauchos” on their horses, and and stumps of wood in Lagoa Misteriosa (top center and order, adapt- the ever presence of urubu, or tur- top right); Tour photographer takes photos of divers (right) ed to living key vultures, swooping down from in caves), above. I handed in my voucher with the formation of caves. The Covering an area of 77,022 hec- jaguar (Panthera onca) and cougar and was allowed to don my shorty Bodoquena Plateau slopes east- tares, the Serra da Bodoquena (Puma concolor), among others. for the dive. ward, with a 200m escarpment National Park, which was created More than 200 caves have been As part of a group of snorkelers, I on the western side. A karst area on 21 September 2000, is adminis- identified in the region, all of them was led along a 400m trail through that extends 200km north-south is tered by the Chico Mendes Institute on private farmland or in the park, the forest, then down a wooden part of a plateau with an average for Biodiversity Conservation. It is and are hard to get to. stairway to the sinkhole, which elevation of 800m, which surrounds part of the Pantanal Biosphere was emerald green in color. Iago, the lower plains of the Pantanal Reserve and classified as an IUCN Lagoa Misteriosa our 19-year-old dive guide, spoke Mato Grosso Plain. Dominated by protected area, with the aim of Being the odd unwilling tourist, I some English, although I found that dolomites, the eastern sector of the preserving natural ecosystems booked a R$400 (US$75) tour to speaking Spanish fluently came in Bodoquena exhibits a morphology of great ecological importance, dive the sinkhole Lagoa Misteriosa. handy when communicating with of karst plains with residual hills and enabling scientific research, envi- Transportation was not included Brazilians. features such as dolines, caves, ronmental education and eco- in the fee, so I was glad I had the Coming from a deep spring in a sinks and springs, as well as tufa tourism. Protected species in this car to drive the 51km south from fracture in the rock, the water was limestone deposits along the cur- area include the armored catfish Bonito to Recanto Ecológico Rio da a balmy 25.4°C. The first dive ever rent fluvial drainage system. Ancistrus formoso (a troglobitic spe- Prata. It was a bucolic landscape made here was done by Augusto Armored catfish (Ancistrus sp.) is a protected species found at Rio da Prata.

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Buraco das Araras red sandstone sinkhole (above); Urubu, or turkey vulture, Cathartes aura (left); Jacaré, or caiman, at Rio da Prata (top center)

underwater. Plenty of small fish, known (US$20). This remarkable sinkhole in red Azul. Definitely a place of wonder and as lambari in Brazil (Astyanax sp.), which sandstone was 160m across and 100m enchantment, it was a large cave that were yellow in color with a black spot on deep, had a green-water lagoon at the had been dived before. “We’ll see if we the tail fin, swam around my mask like bottom and was surrounded by trees can get an authorization for you,” said pests. There were also mussums, which and vegetation. Two jacaré (caimans) the agent. It was denied, as expected, the dive guide Iago confirmed later to lived here, prisoners of their own fates. since Gruta do Lago Azul was a site be marbled swamp eels (Synbranchus There was no way down, but a trail in the of archeological and paleontological marmoratus). forest went around the sinkhole and led research. Lagoa Misteriosa was a good place for to two viewing platforms, one at each “You may look for Edy Edmundo, Auler as a member of a French-Brazilian creative photography. I photographed end. The main draw here was a popu- Secretario do Meio Ambiente (SEMA),” expedition in 1992. The deepest dive rays of sunlight filtering through the water, lation of red-and-green macaws (Ara said the agent. “He is an experienced down to 220m was undertaken in 1998. old wooden logs resting underwater and chloropterus), which dwelled in the cliffs cave diver here. His office is in the However, I was instructed that we would Iago as an underwater model, while the and in the trees. They were noisy for sure, Department of Environment.” not go deeper than 25m—a shame, underwater photographer assigned to us but so entertaining and such a beautiful So, I went there and waited patiently since I was promised by the tour agency took pictures of me in every position! One sight in flight. The forest was teeming with for half an hour before Edmundo came that I could dive to 40m. “But that is not positive comment about the experience birds, and I was surprised by a striped owl out to meet me. Straightaway, he the same price!” I was abruptly told later. is that you could choose the photogra- resting on a branch in the sunlight. advised me to contact another cave Considering the fame of the site and the pher’s best shots of yourself in the end, at diver, named Tuta, who could possibly number of dive novices doing their “bap- no extra cost. Just bring a USB stick. Seeking authorization arrange a dive at Gruta do Mimoso, tismo” (baptism) here, this was a well- Back in Bonito, I explained my dilemma which was actually closed for tourism. Plush-crested jay, Cyanocorax chrysops at oiled industry! Buraco das Araras to another agency. “But I came here But the man was not in town that day. Buraco das Araras (above); Striped owl, Asio The visibility of the water in the sinkhole Only 15 minutes away was Buraco das to go cave diving!” I said and enquired “Come back again tomorrow,” said clamator midas, Buraco das Araras (top was excellent; it was a deep blue color Araras, which incurred a R$78 entry fee about the renowned Gruta do Lago Edmundo. right); Red-and-green macaws, Ara chlorop- terus, Rio da Prata (center)

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View into the sinkhole Abismo Anhumas from the outside (left); Rappelling down in tandem into Abismo Anhumas (right)

Abismo Anhumas of R$1,517 (US$400) is charged for the through the necessary training at the Meanwhile, I decided to have a experience, should you decide to rappel center the day before, where look at Abismo Anhumas (Anhumas dive in the lake as well! you are given a basic understand- Shaft), another famous cavern, 23km A team of six guys pulled people ing about how the technique works. to the southwest, in the hills of Serra out on a rope, running a board- Here, you had to pull yourself up nine da Bodoquena. To get there, I drove walk 30 to 40m long. The whole meters on a rope, with the help of along a red dirt road that climbed ordeal was carried out with enthu- your legs and a rappelling tool. into the dry mato (forest). The last siasm and a good sense of humor. Back at Abismo Anhumas, early 100m had to be done on foot. The A friendly guy named Fernando in the morning, my scuba tank and operation here consisted of rappel- gave me the name of the opera- dive gear were brought down sepa- ling down 72m on a rope, through a tion’s owner, Juca, whom I should rately on the rope, as well as my narrow cleft that opens into a huge approach for further information. underwater camera in a bag. The cavern, which had a lake at the bot- That same evening, I met Juca by subterranean lake was 120m long by tom. From a viewing platform, you chance on the street. As it turned 90m wide, with a maximum depth of can peek inside the sinkhole. One out, he was the owner of both 80m in a specific pit hole. I rappelled can get a glimpse of people sliding Ygarape Tours and Bonito Scuba. down together with another guy, to down or being pulled out, with har- Two days later, I was back with my whom I was hooked up with a cable ness, helmet and the lot. A mere fee dive gear. It was compulsory to go and our legs had to be clutched.

45 X-RAY MAG : 102 : 2020 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THIS PAGE: Underwater scenes showing the huge stalagmites in Abismo Anhumas; Arriving at the feature platform after a 72m rappel down into the sinkhole (below); Skeleton of a tamandua, or anteater, in Abismo Anhumas (right); View of the daylight hole in the open roof of Abismo Anhumas (bottom right)

Underwater, the was 19,000 years old, if we a frisky 18°C, and the 5mm consider a deposit was indeed appreciated. Most of growth of 1mm per the lake did not exceed a depth year. A mind-boggling of 20m. The water visibility was not explanation is that clear, which was not helped by the these stalagmites were darkness of the surroundings. The made underwater, only source of light came from the from the accumula- open roof of the sinkhole. tion of sediments dripping down from Eduardo, the dive guide, pointed with a maximum depth of 18m, and Giant stalagmites rose from the the stalactites above and incidental out the full skeleton of a tamandua I still had 100 bar left. The hoisting up bottom like nuclear warheads. mineralization. It was hard to believe, (giant anteater) laying on the bot- was rather quick and took no more Yellowish-white in color, the tallest was but a proven scientific fact. With the tom. It was estimated to be at most than three to four minutes. It was a 19m high! According to this scale, shortage of light, photography of the 100 years old. memorable experience. it would mean the stalagmite was stalagmites was rather challenging. The total dive time was 34 minutes,

46 X-RAY MAG : 102 : 2020 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Blue Lake, Gruta do Lago Azul (left); View looking up to the entrance of feature Gruta do Lago Azul (below) spring in distant times. During the Franco-Brazilian BONITO/92 Expedition of Jacques- Yves Cousteau, fossils of megafau- na mammals from the Pleistocene were discovered at the bottom of the lake. These were from the giant ground sloth Eremotherium laurillardi and the sabre tooth tiger Smilodon populator (dating from 1.8 million to 11,000 years ago). A second expedition in March 2015, led by researchers of the Museo da Historia Natural—which included divers, photographers, journalists and filmmakers—went to a depth of 90m, discovering 12,000-year-old fossils at depths of 17m to 50m. Other caves in the region, such as Buraco do Japonês, Nascente do Rio Formoso and Fadas Cave, revealed fossils of Pleistocene carnivores such as jaguar, Pantanal cat (Leopardus braccatus) and bear (Arctotherium sp.), as well as mastodons (Stegomastodon sp.), gompho- theres (Notiomastodon platensis), prehistoric armadillo or glyptodont

Gruta do Lago Azul diction is the occurrence of the However, tourism activity here was Gruta do Lago Azul would have bones of Pleistocene animals. approved in May 2008. been a fantastic dive, but the The Monumento Natural Gruta Lago Azul Cave was formed Brazilian bureaucracy is such a do Lago Azul (Blue Lake Cave in Neoproterozoic-era dolomitic headache and the restrictions are Natural Monument) was declared carbonate rocks of the Corumbá so insane that it will take a long a national heritage site in 2001 Group, within the geotectonic time before anything becomes by the Instituto do Patrimônio Paraguay Fold Belt, in relation possible. It is simply not enough Histôrico e Artistico Nacional to the Pan African/Brazilian oro- to be a licensed Full Cave Diver. (IPHAN), not only for its fossils, but genetic event which extends for The environmental laws are overly also for the occurrence of rare 1,500km. The main chamber of protective, but promotion of the minerals such as nesquehonite, Lago Azul extends 224m north- place by agencies is fully encour- and for the minute endemic crus- west-southeast and 184m in a aged, as long as it attracts the tacean Potiicoara brasiliensis, northeast-southwest direction, with lambda-paying tourist. which resembles a weird mantis a maximum depth of 90m. This The reason behind the inter- shrimp, barely a centimeter long. chamber was probably a former

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Piraputanga fish, Brycon hilarii, at Nascente Azuil

(Glyptodontinae) and tapir. located. Hard to find, I ended up permits to take divers into Gruta Nowadays, one can be led by at Estancia Mimosa. A helpful man do Mimoso. With Bruno, his assis- a tour guide along the tourist trail, showed me a road junction on the tant, he was busy placing lines which takes you down a flight of way to Nascente Azul on a map. and markers for future underwater cement stairs to the bottom of Driving to the spot, I discovered a circuits, adapted to all levels of the 60m cliff, into the cavern and hilltop crested with original forest. diving and cave diving. The great- to the edge of the Blue Lake. The A dark 4x4 pick-up was parked in est depth reached was 40m+ in light being minimal, it is rather dif- the shade of some trees. “These the Catacumba. The site was not ficult to take photos of the lake farmers can help me for sure,” I yet open for visitors but should be in natural light, unless you push to thought. To my astonishment, they in March 2021. 3200 ISO, use the timer and keep were divers—with scuba tanks! “Send me a copy of your pass- the camera perfectly motionless! Addressing the big one in a drysuit, port, TDI Full Cave certification I reached out my hand and and DAN insurance, and we could More caves asked: “May I know your name, by plan it for this weekend,” he said. Other dry caves around Bonito any chance?” Well, wasn’t this providence at (such as Gruta de Sao Miguel and “My name is Tuta,” he said. last? I thought. Gruta Sao Mateus) can be visited “Oh, what a coincidence! I was on a tour, but they hold very limited just looking for you,” I said. Springs [email protected] interest in comparison to the amaz- After I explained the reason for The regions of Bonito and Jardim +1 813.628.6284 @NAUIWorldwide ing caves found elsewhere. my presence, he pointed his finger are full of nascentes, better known Back in Bonito to pick up some towards the cave: “Go have a as springs in English. These include COURSE DIRECTOR | CROSSOVER | | FIT | FREEDIVER | INSTRUCTOR lights, my aim was now the search look, then we’ll have a chat.” Nascente Azul, Nascente del for Fazenda Mimoso (Hacienda), Tuta was indeed the new legal Rio Formoso, Nascente da Ceita where Gruta de Mimoso should be operator, who had free entry and Corê, Nascente do Rio Sucuri and

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School of piraputanga fish at Nascente Azul (above); Aquatic plants at Nascente Azul (right); Flutuaçao, loosely translated as snorke- ling, at Nascente Azul (left); Clear-water spring at Nascente da Ceita Corê (bottom right)

Nascente Azul. I signed up for the “You have to, sir, as well as the life jacket. experience, in the hope of tak- This is the rule of the environmental law for ing some nice photos of the fish conservation!” he said. in fabulous visibility, and I showed By now, I was pretty upset about the whole up one morning at Nascente Azul, circus. Once in the water, I felt like a floating with mask, fins, and my tortoise, with my head down and my back underwater camera. “Sorry sir, you bobbing up like a champagne cork. cannot bring your fins,” said the “You must move forward with your arms. guide. Do not use your legs!” he said. “May I know why?” I asked. For goodness sake, how did they expect “Because it will disturb the bot- me to take decent photos of the fish like tom, and you cannot skin dive,” this? It was ridiculous. A bad joke. I thought Nascente do Rio Olho d’Água—all of which he said. to myself, “Now you understand the principle come from Serra da Bodoquena and from I frowned with displeasure, but the man of floatation.” the artesian waters below. In those areas, added: “And you cannot bring the camera the water comes out crystal clear and warm arms with the strobes. It will annoy other peo- Ceita Corê. Ceita Corê was another attrac- at 24°C on average, whereas river water on ple and create delays.” tive spring, located on a farm of the same the surface is around 18°C. Colorful fish life I did not understand but complied for the name. Bubbling with gin-clear water, the is plentiful at the nascentes and favors an sake of peace. Then the small group I was hole connected to a subterranean cham- activity known as flutuaçao, which Brazilian with, composed of families with kids, moved ber that was six meters deep and to a cave brochures translate as . However, it on along the trail to the departure point. At fracture that descended 155m. An enticing is not really snorkeling but something rather the midway point, we were told we had to cave to dive, this activity was sadly not on different. collect equipment. offer. “However, you may snorkel and skin “I do not need the neoprene shorty!” I said. dive to 5m, if you wish!” said the guide.

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THIS PAGE: Underwater scenes of spectacular stalagmites in Gruta do Mimoso; Dive guide Tuta penetrates the tunnel to Gruta do Mimoso (bottom left); Tuta entering the “Salon of the Cones” (top left); Tuta glides over a cluster of cones (left); Tuta hovers over cones that thrust upward like daggers (below); Overhead view of the cones (center)

Gruta do Mimoso Tuta had confirmed our dive at Gruta do Mimoso for Sunday. “Did you bring your signed Liability Release?” he enquired at once. I nodded in agreement. We would be diving with twin 10-liter steel tanks and a backmount with a manifold system. “The first dive will be a loop around the main tunnel, follow- ing the U-shape of the yellow line, maximum 18m depth. You’ll lead,” said Tuta, as if to test me. No camera this time, I was diving only to get used to the cave fea- Salon of the Cones, the highlight another like a collection of rock- tures of the main chamber. It took of this dive. ets pointed towards the ceiling. me 15 minutes to cover the circuit. “Do not swim below the line, Floating above them, I noticed Visibility was fabulous. There was always above the cones,” Tuta some bulbous ones among the hardly any fish life except for small warned. A vision of a surreal tapered cones. lambari (Astyanax sp.). Christmas-tree-like forest in white “When we take a right turn at Tuta led the second dive, and appeared in the beam of my the end of the alignment, you I brought the camera along torch. It was simply breathtaking. may come deeper to shoot from this time. After five minutes, a The stalagmites were a few meters below,” advised Tuta. The depth T-junction took us left into the high and set rather close to one gauge now marked 26m, from the

50 X-RAY MAG : 102 : 2020 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Alignment of cones between the guide lines in Gruta do Mimoso (left); Tuta’s progression forward to the next cham- ber (below); Side view of Tuta inspecting the cones (right); Bonito feature View of cones protruding upward like daggers (bottom cent- er); Tuta at a stop (bottom right)

previous 22m. The tallest stalag- could regain consciousness with mite might be close to 10m, reck- his regulator,” Tuta informed me oned Tuta. Following the side of later, dead serious. the chamber a bit farther on the I emerged from the dive after left, we came to a side tunnel that 44 minutes, truly enchanted and plummeted into the Catacumba, thrilled by the cave. But there at a depth of over 40m. Not the was not going to be another plan for today. We made it back opportunity for me to dive it. “We into the main tunnel and slowly still have a lot of work to do on rose to the 10m level. Above us the cave and we are just behind was a dry chamber where we schedule,” explained Tuta, with a would not surface. nod of the head. “Back in 2003, a couple of Italian divers explored the cave. Topside excursions One came out of the water there Besides diving in rivers such as Rio and fainted after a few minutes. Formoso or Rio da Prata for the The level is only 10%. colorful fish life—with species such Fortunately, his friend brought him as piraputanga or South American back into the water, where he trout (Brycon hilarii), dorado

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Aerial view of Rio Salobra at Boca da Onca (above); Toco toucan, Ramphastos toco, in the town of Corumbá (top left)

(Salminus brasiliensis) and curimbata or streaked prochilod (Prochilodus lineatus)—there are a number of excursions available for those who like trilhas (trails) to walk. A well- recommended one is Fazenda Boca da Onça, where a two- hour tour in the forest takes you first to a platform, where you can rappel down 90m to the river bed of the Rio Salobra. The trail then passes through the forest to eight amazing cachoei- ras (waterfalls) in a very lush natural environment. The tallest waterfall is no less than 156m. Afterthoughts Bonito is an experience of a different kind, definitely Brazilian in style. To be perfectly honest, the restrictions on cave diving left me a bit puzzled and frustrated, knowing that there was so much yet to be discovered underground. But as Tuta rightfully concluded: “Blame it on Brazilian bureaucracy!” 

With a background in biology and geology, French author, The tawny browed owl, Pulsatrix koeniswaldiana, is endemic cave diver, naturalist guide and tour operator Pierre Constant to Mato Grosso do Sul (above); Waterfall at Boca da Onca is a widely published photojournalist and underwater photog- (left); Underwater photographer at Lagoa Misteriosa, with rapher. For more information, visit: calaolifestyle.com. snorkelers at the surface (bottom right)

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