Fine Shetland Fall 2018 No 1 The Knitter: MoniqueB.

The : Jamieson & Smith The pattern: The Second One

Shetland Woolweek patron: Elizabeth Johnston

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Content: The Knitter Page 3 MoniqueB

Shetland Wool Week Page 6 Information and Links

The Swatch Page 7

Screaming Silence... Page 9 A little story on Unst

The Yarn Page 11 Jamieson & Smith

The Designer Page 14 This year’s Shetland Wool Week patron: Elizabeth Johnston

The Pattern Page 18 The Second One

The Lace... Page 19 A bit of information

A word Page 20

Idea and Publisher, Editor, Art Direction, Layout, Photography unless otherwise mentioned: Monique Boonstra. Cover image: The Second One ©2018 by MoniqueB. Image on this page: Shetland Bound ©2012 by MoniqueB. This is a free of ads publication. You’re NOT allowed to copy this magazine for distribution, handouts, free gifting or ANY commercial purposes. Every part of this magazine is subject to copyright by those mentioned in this magazine and cannot be used without permission. For possible contributions, questions and remarks, please mail to [email protected]

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

The Knitter

The Shetland Stars

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Tell us a bit about yourself. How do you feel about the so called controversy of “dumbing down” patterns for knitters? I’m Monique Boonstra, 48, married for 24y, 3 children. I work as a mail delivery person 4 days a I see myself as a pretty advanced lace knitter. I love week and I design Fine Shetland Lace. I also spin fine open work (patterning on both sides). But that corner yarn. I live in The Netherlands. of the (lace) knitter market is very small. So, my designs in that section sell only a few copies. Technically, for me, it’s not as easy as one might think. You have to make sure the pattern gives clear instructions, gives a clean design of which many people will think: “Hey, I can do that!”. With all my designs, I haven’t managed to land one in the Top 20 of . On the other hand; with Ravelry being over 6 million users, the number of simple lace patterns is overwhelming. It’s really hard to stand out from the rest with a simple design among hundreds of others, released every day. Potential buyers can be picky.

How many sample/test knitters do you have working for you or do you do it all yourself?

I am very fortunate to have people wanting to test for my designs when I call out for them. I have the luxury Where do you find inspiration? to even have a choice in this. At first I had around five Old books, shapes of the shawl-to-be, test knitters for one project. Life happens, so some constructions, stitch patterns or repeats. I work as a dropped out. In addition to all that: I often have test mail delivery person ("mailman") and while I’m knitters in two languages; Dutch and English. walking, I think of stitch patterns, repeats and shapes. Or I make a sketch and try to come as close as I can “...In all cases: I knit the design knitting that. myself. Sometimes more than Do you look at other designers’ work or are you afraid that you will be influenced by their designs? once. Why deny myself the Yes, I do look at other designers. But more often than pleasure of a new project with not to see what has already been done. So I don’t come up with something that has just been designed sometimes a brand new yarn to by someone else. Sometimes I look to see what colours are hot (or not) and see how they have styled experiment with?...” it to sell. When I see something I like, I always work hard to give my own interpretation of it. Or give it a Do you have a business model that you have twist with shaping. For instance: I had seen the Cockle emulated? Shell pattern, but only in a rectangle version. I When I started knitting lace, I wanted to knit shawls to thought: I could be the first to give it in a triangular make people happy with something handmade. Now version! That meant that it had to be a shawl that that I’ve learned to knit finer lace, there is a part of needed to be designed bottom-up. Which presented a the history that comes with that. I’m trying to pass whole set of challenges and pattern combinations. It’s that on, so that it doesn’t get lost. That wasn’t why I my best selling pattern so far. got into this, but it is now. Thanks to knitting, I’ve met a lot of very nice people, I’ve learned how to run a business and pushing myself to get better at it.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Do you use a tech editor? occasions but also for every day. I want to tell knitters to invest in good quality material to work with. All I don’t make enough to pay a good one. My test that hard work (knitting lace patterns) in a luxury knitters help me out with things I have overlooked. yarn, will make you want to wear it every day. My Sometimes a (knitter) friend will help with spelling. specialty is Shetland Lace. The finer, the better. I (can) recreate shawls from pictures I took or have seen at How do you maintain your life/work balance? the Shetland Museum and Archives website. It’s like When things need to be done, they get done. I am reaching through the glass of the Museum (Unst, of somewhat famous for making the deadline. I’ve course) and touching it, recreating it, wearing it. I truly missed only one out of 79. I have 1 teenager, 2 young hope knitters will get interested in the finer lace adults and a husband that is away from home a lot. I designs. am a night person, so knitting gets done in the evenings and nights. When the children do their hobbies in the weekend, I get more knitting done.

How long did it take for you to be able to support yourself? I can’t support myself with knitting. At first, I had a lot of commissions. I was able to go to Shetland Wool Week from that in 2012. The crisis hit, I had been giving workshops and people can knit their own shawls now. So, income has been transferred to giving workshops and making designs. My record selling pattern has sold 200 copies over the past three years. I average 10 - 12 sold patterns per design. Compared to the amount of work a design takes, that is not enough to support myself as a business.

What advice would you give someone who wants to pursue a career in knitting?

Make sure you have your client at heart, what do you have to offer that they would like to see and want to wear. I’ve noticed that personality comes into running Find MoniqueB here: a business too. It’s the way you present yourself, your designs and your skills. That is makes your designs www.kantwerk.nl stand out from the rest. A business ethic is also very www.apassionforlace.com important; correspondence (don’t keep the client https://www.instagram.com/apassionforlace/ waiting for an answer to their troubles) administration https://www.etsy.com/shop/APassionForLace?ref=si_ (on both paper and digital) is crucial. Keep track of shop what you’ve done and have planned. Do what you know, and know what you do. Believe in yourself, set a goal and work towards that. Reached your goal? This interview was initiated by Robin. Thank you. Find Make a new one! her blog here:

What’s next for you? http://knittingrobin.blogspot.com/

I’ve been lucky to have made designs for some very kind people, shops and brands. Lace can be for special

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

Shetland Wool Week 22 - 30 September 2018

©AmmerinsMoss picture

This year’s Shetland Wool will be held in the last week But... because this issue is coming out Sept 1st, it’s of September. Activities all over the island can keep highly likely a lot is booked, sold out or not available you entertained. Spinning, knitting, felting, , anymore. It is merely a taste of the happening, a jewelry, lectures, sculpting, talks, trunkshows, temptation to go next year... museums, teas, bears, sweaters, hats, shawls, yarn, http://www.shetlandwooladventures.com/ is an wool, colours, shows and fun. http://www.shetlandwoolweek.com/wp- option to see Shetland any time of year. (Shetland content/themes/ShetlandWoolWeek/events_search.php based) is the site where you can find all the information. http://www.theshetlandtrader.com/shetland-trips/ is an option to travel to Shetland too. (USA based).

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 The Swatch

Yarn: Jamieson & Smith 1/16NM Gossamer Left over or approx. 45 – 55 yards. (I dyed it in “Goudsbloem” / Calendula). Needles: 2,0mm or US0 Size: To fit a “Dove” Beauty Cream Bar (soap: 8 x 6 x 2cm) Notions: Ribbon 5mm wide and 16” or 40cm long (or (for contrast) a coarse piece of rope), tapestry needle to weave in ends. 1 Beauty Cream Bar van “Dove”, suitable detergent for this yarn and a towel, T pins. Instructions: 1. Knitted Cast on: 30 loops. Leave a tail of 16”, use that later to close a side. 2. Turn work and start with the Chart. EVERY row is knitted. Start with a slipped stitch purlwise (S). 3. Work Rows A - H (up to the Red marked row). Work Row “I”, and repeat 44 times. 4. Continue working the Chart: Rows 1 – 45 5. Bind off all stitches. Again, leave a tail of 16”or 40cm. 6. Wash the rectangle gently by hand and press out excess water with a towel. Pin into shape (rectangle) and leave to dry. Then, weave in the 16” tails, by using the edge loops, to close the cozy. 7. Weave in ends. 8. Pull the ribbon or the rope gently through the second row of eyelets. Cut the ribbon of at an angle to prevent it from unravelling. 9. Put in the bar of soap, make a knot and a nice bow in the ribbon and done! 10. Put it on display, give it as a gift, lay it between the towels in the bathroom or in a closet. Enjoy!

This is an original design by A Passion For Lace… This design is ONLY for personal use. You may print it but not for any commercial purposes, sharing or hand outs. NO part of this design can be used without explicit permission by MoniqueB. ©2016 2017 2018 including all pictures. Available for free in my Ravelryshop and in the Fine Shetland Lace Group. For any FAQ or comments, please mail directly to [email protected] Be aware of pollution, if you can use your digital devise to use this pattern please do. You don’t have to print all pages.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Chart 1

S 45 S ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 44 \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / S 43 S 42 S 41 S 40 S 39 S ● ● ● ● ● ● ● 38 \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / S 37 S 36 S 35 S 34 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 33 S \ O O / \ O O / 32 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 31 S \ O O ▲ O O / \ O O ▲ O O / 30 \ O O / \ O O / S 29 S \ O O / \ O O / 28 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 27 S 26 O ▲ O S 25 S \ O O / 24 O ▲ O S 23 S \ O O ▲ O O / 22 \ O O / S 21 S \ O O / 20 O ▲ O S 19 S 18 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 17 S \ O O / \ O O / 16 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 15 S \ O O ▲ O O / \ O O ▲ O O / 14 \ O O / \ O O / S 13 S \ O O / \ O O / 12 O ▲ O O ▲ O S 11 S 10 O ▲ O S 9 S \ O O / 8 O ▲ O S 7 S \ O O ▲ O O / 6 \ O O / S 5 S \ O O / 4 O ▲ O S 3 S 2 S 1 I S ● ● ● ● ● ● ● H \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / S G S F S E S D S C S ● ● ● ● ● ● ● B \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / \ O O / S ← A

Stitch Guide

S Slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front Knit 1 ● Purl 1 O ▲ Knit 3 together = slip 2 at once, knit 1, pass unknit stitches over / Knit 2 together \ Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

Binding off stitches knit 1, * knit 1, yarn over, pass 2 knit stitches over the yarn over*. Repeat *-* until 1 stitch is left. Cut yarn at 16” and pull through last loop. Then use remainder of yarn to close 1 side of the cozy.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

Screaming silence

It’s the end of september 2016. We, MoniqueD and MoniqueB, are on Shetland. A rather large group of islands, some 170 miles from mainland Scotland. Our feet are planted in the heather on Hermaness, a nature reserve at the most northern island of Shetland: Unst. Surrounding Unst are small and large rocks sticking out of the ocean. On one of them, Muckle Flugga, a lighthouse was erected. The walk to the lighthouse is beautiful and long. Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 The beauty makes you forget time. There is nothing to remind you of it, no reference at all. There is no sound. The It took my head 10 minutes (?) to search for ANY noise, ocean is too far away, no sheep in sight and no trees to give sounds or … or what? Then it happens, my head is quiet you a clue of any season. too. No thoughts, no impressions, just breathing. Wow.

If only I could stay longer. Being quiet. Enjoying the silence. Just by reflecting on the cloths you are wearing, you get an It dawns on me this must have been so for centuries. And indication of ‘a’ time. You’re in the 21st century, but you hopefully it will still be for centuries to come. might as well be in the 17th. After we’ve recovered from all that silence, we still have to After the boardwalk is cut off, we set foot on a grass plain. walk for probably another hour to the car. Still a long way to go to the lighthouse and the first sheep Back to reality. appear. Rocks with Gannets in the distance, sheep on a cliff I’m glad the transition is gradually, there are only 600 sitting and eating where I could never set foot. There is a people living on Unst. We don’t see any. small breeze, but you only feel it.

The path leads us down a slope and up another part of the There are indeed more sheep on Shetland than humans. Reserve, and finally we see the lighthouse. Still far away in Most sheep roam free, although fences have been put in the distance but stressed for time, we can’t get any closer. place to make sure specific characteristics of a certain type What a sight to behold. remain pure. The sheep have adapted to the harsh environment and give a surprisingly soft and versatile fleece. The ‘Oo’ (wool) can be spun thick and thin and takes dye very well. It’s suitable for socks, garments and... fine lace. Even the natural shades give plenty of options without dyeing.

Some 180 years ago, women on Unst developed a new take on knitting; Lace. They ‘rooed’ (plucked) the longest neck hairs of the sheep and spun all winter to create a very fine and delicate yarn. In summer, they knitted the finest lace. You truly have to see it with your own eyes to believe it’s delicacy. They became specialists, each knitter had her (mostly women although there were a few men knitting fine lace) own patterns and designs. Most often, each shawl had more than 5 different patterns. A true mark of a hand knitted shawl. The women capable of doing this extraordinary work were exempted from working on the croft and rough work. Their hands needed to be soft to handle the wool and fine spun yarn. In the end, shawls could be pulled through a wedding ring, no matter what the size of the shawl. On other Shetland islands, women made lace shawls too. But not as fine and delicate as they came from Unst. Could it be because of that screaming silence? It was a hard life. When A sign makes sure we need to go up the hill and follow a shawl was done, it was brought to Lerwick to be sold or coloured poles to get back to the car. After we’ve been traded for goods, tea or clothing. And then, on to the next walking for 3 hours, we see a random piece of boardwalk, shawl. In that silence.... covering a rather large puddle. Big enough for both of us to rest our feet. You can visit Hermaness for free. The Museum on Unst:

http://www.shetlandheritageassociation.com/members/north- We sit. We lay down, looking at the sky. mainland-and-isles/unst-heritage-centre I close my eyes. Listening. Listening for what? There’s nothing to ©Picture Muckle Flugga is from Wikipedia.org hear. The silence is screaming: … there’s no sound here!

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

THE YARN ©jamiesonandsmith The Woolbrokers

Oliver Henry, thé Woolsorter at Jamieson & Smith, local companies and also firms & wool mills on based in Lerwick, has been working there for 49 – 50 the U.K. mainland. In 1952 John Smith moved to years. He’s been sorting and grading the wool by Lerwick and enlisted a wool merchant James Jamieson quality and colour. of Lerwick who was given a minority share- holding of 10 %, information from company archives, hence the The (wool) Brokers set up shop in 1955, as John Smith trading name of Jamieson & Smith, Mr Jamieson had a keen eye for “Kind wool”, (Ref: OO by Kate retired in 1958 leaving John Smith as the sole owner. Davies), could you tell us a bit how the store was In 1967/8 J & S had some of the local wool they started, collecting the wool and sorting, and what they bought spun into various weights of by Hunters had on offer? of Brora based in the Scottish Highlands, long time Jamieson & Smith Shetland Wool Brokers originated woollen spinners of Shetland wool. J & S had their from Berry Farm Scalloway in 1930 and was started by own “ wool bank “ at the mill and would place orders the late John “ Sheepie “ Smith who dealt in all types as demand required. of farm produce wool being part of his business Picture above from the Jamieson & Smith blog interests, wool was bought in from local crofters and Picture of Oliver Henry: Monique Boonstra (2014) farmers stored and in the winter months sorted into various qualities it was then sold on to a number of

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 The ranges of yarns were from the finest lace, Campaign for Wool. An international group set up to Spencer, Hap, 2 ply Jumper, , and the awareness of wool world – wide. Chunky yarns. Activities include wool weeks in each company involved in the campaign and Shetland Wool Week “...IT HAS TO BE NOTED THE WOOLLEN was started in 2010 by J & S, who enlisted the help of SPUN METHOD IN SPINNING FINE LACE IT the Shetland Sheep Society and Shetland Museum and IS NOT POSSIBLE TO SPIN SHETLAND Archives a part of the Shetland Amenity Trust, a FINE ENOUGH UNLESS A STRONGER Shetland Islands Council organisation. BLEND OF WOOL SUCH AS AUSTRALIAN Our Supreme Shetland lace range were on smaller MERINO LAMBSWOOL IS ADDED TO THE cones originally but this proved to be costly and more SHETLAND TO PROVIDE STRENGTH IN difficult to produce. We are restricted by costs in such THE FINISHED FIBRE...” fine yarns and have settled on our current weight and qualities and have no plans at present to change. In a talk by Carol Christiansen, I learned the fine cobweb yarns were developed with Jamieson & Smith After sorting, the wool is send off to the main land, as and the Shetland Museum and Archives. It is a good it was back in the days when Shetland knitwear had its quality 1ply yarn in natural colours suitable for heyday.Can you tell us a bit about the percentage of knitting a fine shawl or garment. wool clip that is, in the end, suitable for spinning the Can you give us an insight on how the weight was finest yarns? decided, or were there limits to what the machines could produce? We at J & S control between 80 & 85 % of the Will there be, as I have tried myself to dye the wool; it Shetland wool clip and source our finest wool from takes dye very well, a coloured range as well? our hand sorted wool we purchase. We appear to be the only local company left doing hand sorting of In 2008 J & S was approached by the Shetland graded greasy Shetland wool. ( ACCORDING TO Museum to develop a lace “ wirsit “ worsted as was DISPLAY BOARD OUTSIDE JAMIESON’S SHOP WHERE used by the hand spinners and knitters of Shetland in THEY STATE THEY ONLY GRADE WOOL AND DO NOT the past. The aim was to replicate the type of lace APPEAR TO SORT. ) yarn used. We along with our parent company and a worsted mill, in Yorkshire England one of the very few left in the U.K. produced a single ply and two ply lace yarn which matched the lace collections in the museum. Various trials were carried out initially and we eventually produced a yarn which suited the museum, these first yarns were test knitted by two local knitters and a group of avid lace knitters in the U.S. who provided detailed reports on how the yarn performed and how it should be presented on cone or ball and shades. These yarns optic white and a range of natural undyed yarns are a smooth leaner and strong yarn with a very good handle. Worsted spinning is a different process from woollen spun and is produced from the finest Shetland wool we buy and sort hence the name Shetland Supreme.

In 2010 the project was completed and a Shetland Museum & Archives presentation kit, of hand- made scarf and DVD of the lace knitting tradition, was presented to H.R.H Prince Charles; Patron of the

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Knitting lace, or even better, Fine Shetland Lace, is a In the past years, Knit British has been a rising star, small part of the infinite possibilities in knitting as a promoting local flocks, British Wool and therefore also whole. Since 9 years, there is Shetland Woolweek, Shetland wool. With Prince Charles as a Patron for September 22 – 30 2018. A week filled with Wool wool in the UK, are there new insights on wool, related activities, classes, exhibitions, talks and handling of the sheep and fleeces? shopping. Attendance is increasing every year. In 2012 Jamieson & Smith released The Lace Collection; a set Yes, there is more awareness of wool due to the of 9 designs in Shetland Lace, worked in yarns by J&S. Campaign for wool and Shetland Wool week. Have you seen a increase in interest in Fine Lace? Also, there are more and more retailers overseas that Yes, due to our introduction of 100% Real Shetland are now selling Shetland Wool. Is Fine yarn a part of Supreme Lace yarns. their range too?

Do you hope to see an increase in interest now that Our retailers for sure, others uncertain as we control most of the fine Shetland wool. Elizabeth Johnston is patron for this wool week?

Yes, Elizabeth is very strong into her lace designs. How do you handle the wool / project once it’s done?

There are many patterns that are specifically known Once your garment is finished wash in luke warm and recognized as Shetland Lace. water with wool wash detergent do not rub in case of Will you be promoting Fine Lace with a (new) felting I just put it in and out again rinse with fabric collection of patterns / designs? conditioner and put in a towel to get excess water out and then thread through fishing line and put evenly Hopefully. on to board for drying. Are you in the process of developing more yarn ranges in weight or colours? Will it always be 100% pure Shetland Wool? Below: Shetland Bound by Monique Boonstra, available as a kit. ©jamiesonsmith for the picture (left). Yarn and fibre(right) Yes.

Shop: http://www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk/ Blog: https://jamiesonandsmith.wordpress.com/ FaceBook: https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=jamieson%20%26%20smith%20shetland%20wool%20brokers Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/thewoolbrokers/

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

Photo ©shetlandwoolweek THE DESIGNER

This year’s patron for the Shetland spinning wheel I went to an evening had been spinning for about 2 years Woolweek is Elizabeth Johnson. class with an older spinner who had before I had confidence in the Famous for her skilled spinning for learned from her family. I consider quality of the yarn I was spinning. fine lace shawls. She designed the that I was really lucky to learn from For my first spinning I let the fleece 2018 Woolweek hat, but I want to her – the old way – as a professional dictate the yarn size, but I was focus on her spinning and lacework. Shetland spinner. Spinning missed spinning from good quality fleece only one generation here in Shetland and would have spun a yarn size in so we learned spinning skills which between our jumper weight and lace On the website of Wool week, one had been passed down through weight in thickness. I was not aiming can read you have a business, generations. for a lace weight, more for a working with Shetland wool as a consistent and even yarn. spinner and a knitter. I’ll focus on the Did it take you long to learn? What spinning first. You’ve been spinning yarn weight did you learn to spin? Over the years, did you (learn to) since 1978, who did you learn it Were you aiming for lace weight spin finer and finer and more from? right away? consistent? Spinning fine yarn for a shawl takes a long time, making a I had watched spinning at one of the I think I learned a lot by watching as balanced yarn, what were the Agricultural Shows here in Shetland, a child. The evening class was one problems you ran into? Having said so one day every year for about an evening a week for 10 weeks, then I that, do you have a ‘default’ spinning hour since I was a small child, and was on my own, but still with yarn, one you can do without any you can learn a lot by watching. spinners around me so I could go ask effort? When I eventually bought my first for advice when I needed. I think I Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 When I was more confident in my I always spin in the grease. Very colours. Sometimes I do find a fleece spinning I did work on spinning a occasionally I will wash fleece if I which just tells me what to do with lace yarn and a fine lace yarn. It does want to have dyed fleece, but it. Last year I found a variegated grey take time, but the more you practise normally I dye in the hank. fleece when I needed to spin and the faster you can spin. I don’t look knit a hap. I separated the shades of to spin a balanced yarn as it is talked Do you know if that particular fleece grey and spun and knitted the shawl. about today. I spin the single with will have enough locks to spin for a I could almost not tell where the the twist in it that I need so that shawl? shades of grey changed, but I loved when it is spun with the twist I want the end result. With practice I know how much raw in the ply, it is then the yarn I want. fleece is needed to spin an amount Do you look at museum pieces for That takes practice, but of yarn, although I usually spin more inspiration or have you developed than I think I will need for a project. practise is just spinning more your own patterns? In a good fleece I will usually spin and more. Then I practised at enough yarn for more than one I almost always develop my own spinning faster. I now spin a shawl, perhaps enough for two patterns. Just occasionally I will use jumper weight yarn as a shawls. an existing piece but there has to be a special reason for doing that. default, and can spin a lace And do you blend the fibres to make weight and a finer than lace sure the shawl is in one colour? Are you starting with an idea or weight easily by choosing the develop a design first and then spin Yes, usually I will try to have an even or the other way around? correct fleece quality. I have colour in the yarn. You want to see no desire to spin a very fine that lace pattern and too much I will usually spin the yarn first. lace weight yarn – that takes colour variation means the pattern is too much time. not so clear. I try not to knit a design twice, but sometimes for a commissioned knit I Is there a specific flock you can get I’ve been to Shetland 3 times, only 2 have too. Do you work on your hands on that delivers the best ‘as a spinner’, which made me look commission or do you ‘just’ make a fleece to spin fine yarn? Or even a at Shetland wool in a totally design and it will sell (anyway)? specific sheep? Are there good / bad different way. Quality of the fleece is years in fleeces? I used to be able to do both, but now crucial for spinning the finer yarns, I do not have much time to knit as is the preparation. There are good flocks, but for me items to have in stock for sale. I am How / what did you learn to prepare not specific sheep. I mostly spin usually working on yarns to sell and the fleece for the best spin? coloured fleece and the colour commissioned pieces. changes as the sheep ages so I am Most of my yarn is spun from carded looking for colours as well as quality. A question I always get: how long fleece, and preparation is key to It is not normal to have good/bad will it take to knit a fine lace shawl? whatever yarn you want to produce. years in fleece. Shetland knitters are famous for For an even consistent yarn a good being so quick, I’ve seen you knit; I preparation is key. I learned hand Now for the lace. There is a saying couldn’t keep up if I tried. Do you carding, eventually, it is the hardest that a woodcarver sees the thing he take your time and it is quick part of the process to perfect, but will be making in the wood, he just anyway? now I use a drum carder and have removes all the wood to get to it. Is it perfected a technique with the drum the same with the wool? Is there an Yes, Monique, we do learn to knit to have well carded fleece. I also idea for a specific lace pattern that fast. Knitted at a steady speed or learned several ways to comb fleece will come out best in just thát wool, pace makes for a better tension, but for worsted yarns. or colour? Or is it always white? no I don’t take my time, I will just knit fast. To knit slower is not Do you spin ‘in the grease’ or do you It isn’t always white. For most lace enjoyable – it is not what we do. wash locks before spinning? designs any one colour will work. For Then I always want to finish a piece a hap it is different, you want to see how it looks.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 Elizabeth giving a class on Shetland lace, Shetland Woolweek 2014, Jamieson & Smith Store.

Last question and something I still You can find Elizabeth here: get worked up about: is Fine Lace a www.shetlandhomespun.com niche? https://shetlandhandspun.blogspot.com / Fine Lace can only be spun from fibres that have a low micron count, www.shetlandwoolweek.com https://www.ravelry.com/designers/eliz fine fibres. It is not restricted to wool abeth-johnston but there are only a few wools which are fine enough to spin true fine https://shetlandhandspun.blogspot.com lace. Perhaps it is a niche because it /2017/08/dvd-launch-50-tips-from- is limited by the rarity of the fibre shetland.html required. Maybe it has a niche market as it is a more expensive https://fruityknitting.com/2017/10/24/e pisode-40-shetland-lace-spinning- item and also less people may feel weaving-elizabeth-johnston/ able to wear fine lace. But perhaps Handspun and handdyed yarn by Elizabeth Johnston (2016, blogpost photo) each type of knitted garment is in its https://www.instagram.com/shetlandha own niche. Perhaps it is in a niche ndspun/ because it is extra special. You must admit that fine lace garments are very beautiful. Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 THE PATTERN

THE SECOND ONE Yarn 1650m Jamieson & Smith Shetland Supreme 1/16NM Gossamer 1 ply in (1)Black, (2) grey, (2) fawn, (2) white and (1) optical white* (400m/25gr) Needles 2mm or US 1 (for fine lace) or 2,5mm or US 1,5 (for lace) Size approx. 45” x 45” after on US 1 or 60”x 60” approx. on US1,5 needles. Notions stitch markers, tapestry needle to weave in ends, mild detergent for washing, blocking kit and T pins for blocking. * The optical white is only 12 rows. If you don’t want to purchase a whole ball for just 12 rows, the natural white will do. You don’t need extra for this.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018

Shetland is famous for its large fine lace shawls. The Shetland Museum and Archives stores many pictures of handspun and handknitted shawls, with delicate designs and patterns. Luckily, they were recorded for posterity. ©jamieson and smith A visit to that museum will reveal the delicate nature of the shawls for real. They are so fine, a whole shawl With the development of a new 1ply gossamer can be pulled through a weddingring. The shawls were Shetland Wool yarn, by Jamieson & Smith and the knitted as a family heirloom or as income. Shawls Shetland Museum and Archives, it is now possible to were collected in Lerwick and often sold to ‘well to choose a design and knit your own Fine Lace Shawl! do’ ladies on the mainland. Spinning and knitting such a shawl could take up to a When I was on Shetland in 2012, I brought my shawl: year. Only the finest wool was used and spun into a The One. I was so proud. Worked in a 65/35 truly delicate plied yarn. The museum has a little bit of Merino/Silk yarn in grey/green. Back on Shetland in edge lace on display. It is supported by a magnifying 2014, I learned even more and knitted the same shawl glass to capture the tiny stitches, created by a very again: The Second One. I used the natural colours of skilled set of hands. the 1ply gossamer and some finer needles.

The construction of the shawl: 1. Knit the edge points (colour 1). Pick up loops. 2. Work the pattern for the border (colours 2 – 3). 3. Knit centre (colour 4, option to use colour 5). 4. Repeat points 1 and 2 3 more times. 5. Graft / sew the parts together. 6. Wash and block the shawl. 7. Wear it proud.

Yarn for this design is available at Jamieson & Smith or a local retailer. http://www.shetlandwoolbrokers.co.uk/epages/BT49 17.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4917/Categories /Stockists1 Not all stockists might have the 1ply in stock.

Use code: FSL2018 to get a discount of 20% on the purchase of this design. Valid until Dec 31, 2018. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-second-

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Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 THE LACE

It always comes in handy to know what all those symbols in To keep track on which side you’re on, you can start (i.e.) a chart for knitting lace mean. A chart is very handy, you with a pink marker and end with a green marker. It also can see each row stacked on top of the previous. And means, that when there is no front or back, you can start repeats are easy to indicate. It is a lót of work to have with a pattern whenever you want! No need to wait for a written words for Fine Lace. Often only letters were used. purled row to be done; put it right there where there’s For example in the book by Gladys Amedro: “Shetland room for it. Lace”. T was Take 1, nowadays: Knit 2 together. Also, did you ever notice how, with lace knitting, the holes K is still Knit 1. become ROUND and often at a 45°, due to the purl row. P is still Purl 1. The round holes exist of 2 strands twisted around each 3T was Take in 3, nowadays: knit 3 together. other. And when you knit lace, the holes most often TB is Through the back loop, or Knit 2 together. become more RECTANGLE, and less steep. The yarn in C is Cast up, nowadays: yarn over / Forward. the yarn over are not 2 strands twisted, but a single one. And many combinations of those together, like cTB: wool Finally, in Shetland lace, due to all those knitted rows and forward, 2 two together through the back loops. all the lace you just worked, it becomes more stretchy than

stockinette lace. It all comes to a magical ending when you Once you get the hang of it, it will become easier. But, you ‘dress’ the project. Wash it clean, stretch it in ALL have no idea how it will look, if the repeat ligns up with the directions, see the yarn bloom and pulling open those yarn previous rows. And with, sometimes only a hand drawn overs. It’s SO worth the effort of hurting your knees, example of the end product, it can be a bit difficult. stretching your back and getting terrified that you might be Charts. Each box has only 1 function / 1 symbol. pulling too hard on it. An O looks like a hole, so you make a yarn over, that ends Before I had even heard about Ravelry©, I visited up in that shape. The same idea goes for the / or the \ and www.knitting-and.com/homework often. Not much the ▲. It pretty much self explanatory. Not to make it an Shetland lace, but enough patterns to improve your skills. unreadable chart, the knit stitches are almost always an She has made a glossary in many languages and in empty box. Purl stitches are often a ● or a − . combination with the symbols, I’m sure you’ll find your way A true Shetland Lace shawl is worked in all knitted rows. to get going! Every time you turn your work, you get a new ‘front’. You http://www.knitting-and.com/wiki/multilanguageglossary/ need to remember that, because you’ll find that patterns can start at any row now: right or wrong side rows. 1: Lace knitting. 2: Knitted Lace.

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Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018 I mailed them to ask if there would When you knit a ‘fine fabric’ and add be a WoolWeek next year. They a lace pattern (or 5), it will look This is it! didn’t know yet, but as soon as they better. Lace shouldn’t be worked on did, they would give a heads up. larger needles, but on finer! So, I Back in 2007, after a year of did! (see The Second One). Later that year, apparently word had blogging, a friend of mine asked me gotten around that I was the lady of Finally, it all came together in 2016. if I could knit her a shawl. She lace. And an email from Jamieson & Another dream, one I couldn’t have dropped Victorian Lace Today (Jane Smith stopped me in my tracks. They imagned of coming true, became Sowerby) in my lap and I was wanted me to be part of a Lace reality. I was part of Wool Week instantly in love. The techniques, the Collection, due in 2012. I couldn’t again: I was giving a class on delicacy of the yarns, the patterns. believe it, but I designed my butt off. Shetland Lace in the Jamieson & What’s not to love? I got the yarn, I knitted with the Smith store. And it sold out, quite Of course I chose one of the most greatest passion and send it to quick too. difficult patterns, not only Lace them. I couldn’t believe my eyes The suitcase was again filled with patterns on both sides, but in when the collection was published. wool, also for spinning now. I even stockinette: the Myrtle Leaf. Great names, people I admire and had a fleece send home. The The yarn, Malabrigo Lace, was very little old me! And to top it off, I was ultimate news came, when our son soft and forgiving. Now that I had a able to go to Shetland Wool Week had his appointment with his taste for it, I wanted more! 2012. oncologist. I was on Shetland and Already in 2008, I made the first I had never set foot on an airplane, listening in on my phone, hearing ‘official’ fine lace shawl: The hadn’t been on a trip by myself him say our son was clean. His 5 Shetland Tea shawl. Finer yarn, abroad and had no clue what to years were up, they didn’t find any bright colour and in the round! expect. I had a friend that had been activity in the past years, he got a A year later, the same shawl, but to Shetland and I visited her to hear clean bill of health.... with a split, in even finer yarn. An all about it. That same night I addiction was born. booked a ticket. I had no car, no Now, it’s 2018. I won’t be going to Shetland’s Woolweek. My passion is By that time, I had founded my own place to stay, but I was going! It was to knit and spin Fine Shetland Lace company Kantwerk (in better everything I wanted and more. My and share the loveBecause I had English: A passion for lace...). shawl was in the Jamieson & Smith submitted several of my designs and Commissions started to come more store, my name was in the got rejected at other companies, I frequent and I had great fun. programme book as part of a Trunk thought: I’d better do it myself. I Ordering beautiful yarns from Show (with Mary Kay and Gudrun started my own Fine Shetland Lace England and America, because in Johnston!). My suitcase was filled group on Facebook. I asked around, The Netherlands, they were hard to with as much wool as possible. And mailed to the guests and coming find. Starting to make my own with a head full of idea’s I came guests, learned how to ‘build’ a designs, it was getting more serious. home on a cloud. magazine. I have NO idea how this Matching yarns with designs, In 2014, I was able to go again. will work out. This issue has a lot of shaping, size, needles. Stubborn as I Expecting the WOW-experience of ‘me’, but I promise that is only for am, I kept holding on my straight the first time, I was disappointed this issue. You can get to know me a needles, while the world was that it wasn’t that WOW. little, and share in my passion for celebrating the circular needle. The islands and the people were still Fine Lace. The day I heard about a ‘Wool Week’ amazing, the only thing that had Next issue will have the same items: in Shetland, was also a hard day. Our changed was me. It wasn’t ‘the first’ The Knitter, The Yarn, The Designer, son was very busy handling chemo time anymore. Something else did The Pattern and The Lace. New for his Hodgkin. I really wanted to happen; I learned to look and items could be added. go, but I really didn’t want to leave. understand better what I was looking at. A display of Fine Lace by We had no idea how it would work I hope you have enjoyed it and will Ina Irvine, at opening day of out, if the treatment would be look forward to the next issue! Keep WoolWeek really opened my eyes. I successful. By the time we did know, on knitting! Thank you. there was no time to prepare and wasn’t doing anything wrong, but I go. could do a lot better, finer.

Fine Shetland Lace Fall 2018