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A Frenchman in America, Recollections of Men and Things Library of Congress A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. A FRENCHMAN IN AMERICA. Max O'Rell A FRENCHMAN IN AMERICA Recollections of Men and Things BY MAX O'RELL AUTHOR OF “JONATHAN AND HIS CONTINENT,” “JOHN BULL, JUNIOR,” “JACQUES BONHOMME,” “JOHN BULL AND HIS ISLAND,” ETC. WITH OVER ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. W. KEMBLE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS COPYRIGHT OCT NEW YORK CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY 104 & 106 FOURTH AVENUE (1891) E168 .B65 Copyright, 1891, by CASSELL PUBLISHING COMPANY. All rights reserved. THE MERSHON COMPANY PRESS, RAHWAY, N. J. vii CONTENTS. CHAPTER. PAGE. A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress I.—Departure—The Atlantic—Demoralization of the “Boarders”—Betting—The Auctioneer —An Inquisitive Yankee, 1 II.—Arrival of the Pilot—First Look at American Newspapers. 11 III.—Arrival—The Custom House—Things Look Bad—The Interviewers—First Visits— Things Look Brighter—“O Vanity of Vanities,” 14 IV.—Impressions of American Hotels, 25 V.—My Opening Lecture—Reflections on Audiences I Have Had—The Man who Won't Smile—The One who Laughs too Soon, and Many Others, 37 VI.—A Connecticut Audience—Merry Meriden—A Hard Pull, 48 VII.—A Tempting Offer—The Thursday Club—Bill Nye—Visit to Young Ladies' Schools— The Players' Club, 52 VIII.—The Flourishing of Coats-of-Arms in America—Reflections Thereon—Forefathers Made to Order—The Phonograph at Home—The Wealth of New York—Departure for Buffalo, 60 IX.—Different Ways of Advertising a Lecture—American Impressarios and Their Methods, 66 X.—Buffalo—The Niagara Falls—A Frost—Rochester to the Rescue of Buffalo—Cleveland —I Meet Jonathan—Phantasmagoria, 74 XI.—A Great Admirer—Notes on Railway Traveling—Is America a Free Nation?—A Pleasant Evening in New York, 81 A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress XII.—Notes on American Women—Comparisons—How Men Treat Women and Vice Versa—Scenes and Illustrations, 90 viii XIII.—More about Journalism in America—A Dinner at Delmonico's—My First Appearance in an American Church, 110 XIV.—Marcus Aurelius in America—Chairmen I Have Had—American, English, and Scotch Chairmen—One who had Been to Boulogne—Talkative and Silent Chairmen—A Trying Occasion—The Lord is Asked to Allow the Audience to See my Points, 124 XV.—Reflections on the Typical American, 137 XVI.—I am Asked to Express Myself Freely on America—I Meet Mrs. Blank and for the First Time Hear of Mr. Blank—Beacon Street Society—The Boston Clubs, 149 XVII.—A Lively Sunday in Boston—Lecture in the Boston Theater—Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes—The Booth-Modjeska Combination, 156 XVIII.—St. Johnsbury—The State of Maine—New England Self-control—Cold Climates and Frigid Audiences—Where is the Audience?—All Drunk!—A Reminiscence of a Scotch Audience on a Saturday Night, 163 XIX.—A Lovely Ride to Canada—Quebec, a Corner of Old France Strayed up and Lost in the Snow—The French Canadians—The Parties in Canada—Will the Canadians become Yankees? 172 XX.—Montreal—The City—Mount Royal—Canadian Sports—Ottawa—The Government— Rideau Hall, 182 A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress XXI.—Toronto—The City—The Ladies—The Sports—Strange Contrasts—The Canadian Schools, 191 XXII.—West Canada—Relations between British and Indians—Return to the United States —Difficulties in the Way Encounter with an American Custom-House Officer, 196 XXIII.—Chicago (First Visit) The “Neighborhood” of Chicago—The History of Chicago— Public Servants—A Very Deaf Man, 203 XXIV.—St. Paul and Minneapolis, the Sister Cities—Rivalries and Jealousies between Large American Cities—Minnehaha Falls—Wonderful Interviewers—My Hat gets into Trouble Again—Electricity in the Air—Forest Advertisements—Railway Speed in America, 214 ix XXV.—Detroit—The Town—The Detroit “Free Press”—A Lady Interviewer—The “Unco Guid” in Detroit—Reflections on the Anglo-Saxon “Unco Guid,” 222 XXVI.—Milwaukee—A Well-filled Day—Reflections on the Scotch in America—Chicago Criticisms, 236 XXVII.—The Monotony of Traveling in the States—“Manon Lescaut” in America, 244 XXVIII.—For the First Time I See an American Paper Abuse Me—Albany to New York—A Lecture at Daly's Theater—Afternoon Audiences, 248 XXIX.—Wanderings Through New York—Lecture at the Harmonie Club—Visit to the Century Club, 255 XXX.—Visit to the Brooklyn Academy of Music—Rev. Dr. Talmage, 257 A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress XXXI.—Virginia—The Hotels—The South—I will Kill a Railway Conductor before I Leave America—Philadelphia—Impressions of the Old City, 263 XXXII.—My Ideas of the State of Texas—Why I will not Go There—The Story of a Frontier Man, 274 XXXIII.—Cincinnati—The Town—The Suburbs—A German City—“Over the Rhine”—What is a Good Patriot?—An Impressive Funeral—A Great Fire—How It Appeared to Me, and How It Appeared to the Newspaper Reporters, 279 XXXIV.—A Journey if you Like—Terrible Encounter with an American Interviewer, 296 XXXV.—The University of Indiana—Indianapolis—The Veterans of the Grand Army of the Republic on the Spree—A Marvelous Equilibrist, 306 XXXVI.—Chicago (Second Visit)—Vassili Verestchagin's Exhibition—The “Angelus”— Wagner and Wagnerites—Wanderings About the Big City—I Sit on the Tribunal, 311 XXXVII.—Ann Arbor—The University of Michigan—Detroit Again—The French Out of France—Oberlin College, Ohio—Black and White—Are All American Citizens Equal? 322 x XXXVIII.—Mr. and Mrs. Kendal in New York—Joseph Jefferson—Julian Hawthorne—Miss Ada Rehan—“As You Like It” at Daly's Theater, 330 XXXIX.—Washington—The City—Willard's Hotel—The Politicians—General Benjamin Harrison, U. S. President—Washington Society—Baltimore—Philadelphia, 332 XL.—Easter Sunday in New York, 342 A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress XLI.—I Mount the Pulpit and Preach on the Sabbath, in the State of Wisconsin— The Audience is Large and Appreciative; but I Probably Fail to Please One of the Congregation, 347 XLII.—The Origin of American Humor and Its Characteristics—The Sacred and the Profane—The Germans and American Humor—My Corpse Would “Draw,” in my Impressario's Opinion, 353 XLIII.—Good-by to America—Not “Adieu,” but “Au Revoir”—On Board the Teutonic— Home Again, 361 A FRENCHMAN IN AMERICA. CHAPTER I. Departure—The Atlantic—Demoralization of the “Boarders”—Betting— The Auctioneer—An Inquisitive Yankee. On board the “Celtic,” Christmas Week, 1889. IN the order of things the Teutonic was to have sailed to-day, but the date is the 25th of December, and few people elect to eat their Christmas dinner on the ocean if they can avoid it; so there are only twenty-five saloon passengers, and they have been committed to the brave little Celtic , while that huge floating palace, the Teutonic , remains in harbor. Little Celtic! Has it come to this with her and her companions, the Germanic , the Britannic , and the rest that were the wonders and the glory of the ship-building craft a few years ago? There is something almost sad in seeing these queens of the Atlantic dethroned, and obliged to rank below newer and grander ships. It was even pathetic to hear the remarks of the sailors, as we passed the Germanic who, in her day, had 2 created even more wondering admiration than the two famous armed cruisers lately added to the “White Star” fleet. A Frenchman in America, recollections of men and things. http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.01319 Library of Congress I know nothing more monotonous than a voyage from Liverpool to New York. Nine times out of ten—not to say ninety-nine times out of a hundred—the passage is bad. The Atlantic Ocean has an ugly temper; it has forever got its back up. Sulky, angry, and terrible by turns, it only takes a few days' rest out of every year, and this always occurs when you are not crossing. And then, the wind is invariably against you. When you go to America, it blows from the west: when you come back to Europe, it blows from the east. If the captain steers south to avoid icebergs, it is sure to begin to blow southerly. Doctors say that sea-sickness emanates from the brain. I can quite believe them. The blood rushes to your head, leaving your extremities cold and helpless. All the vital force flies to the brain, and your legs refuse to carry you. It is with sea-sickness as it is with wine. When people say that a certain wine goes up in the head, it means that it is more likely to go down to the feet. There you are, on board a huge construction that rears and kicks like a buck-jumper. She lifts you up bodily, and, after well shaking all your members in the air several seconds, lets them down higgledy-piggledy, leaving to Providence the business of picking them up and putting them together again. That is the kind of “YOUR LEGS REFUSE TO CARRY YOU.” 3 thing one has to go through about sixty times an hour. And there is no hope for you; nobody dies of it. Under such conditions, the mental state of the boarders may easily be imagined. They smoke, they play cards, they pace the deck like bruin pacing a cage; or else they read, and forget at the second chapter all they have read in the first.
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