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Lviv & Western Ukraine Львів & Західна Україна

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Lviv & Western Ukraine Львів & Західна Україна ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lviv & Western Ukraine Львів & Західна Україна POP 5.85 MILLION / AREA: 75,847 SQ KM Why Go? Lviv . .88 More quintessentially Ukrainian than the rest of the coun- Zhovkva . .105 try, and distinctly more European, the west is all about its largest city, the Galician capital of Lviv. One of Ukraine’s Olesko . .106 great hopes for tourism, the city is a truly captivating place, Drohobych. .106 rich in historic architecture and with an indulgent coff ee- Ternopil . .106 house culture, but only a fraction of the tourist hordes who Pochayiv . .108 choke similar city-break destinations such as Krakow and Kremenets . .109 Prague. Early signs of gentrifi cation have yet to smother its shabby authenticity. Ternopil Caves . 110 The Soviets ruled for only 50 years here, making the Lutsk . 110 west the most foreigner-friendly province with less surly Shatsky National ‘no-can-do’ bureaucracy than in eastern regions. People Nature Park . 112 here speak Ukrainian (rather than Russian) and show Dubno . 112 greater pride in Ukrainian traditions than elsewhere. Rivne . 113 Away from Lviv, the moody Carpathian Mountains are a short bus ride away, as are historic Lutsk, the olde- worlde spa at Truskavets and the golden domes of Pochayiv Monastery. Best Places to Eat » Masonic Restaurant When to Go? (p 101 ) Lviv » D i m L e h e n d ( p 1 0 1 ) °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm 30/86 12/300 » Korona Vitovta (p 111 ) 20/68 » Kupol (p 101 ) 8/200 10/50 0/32 Best Places to 4/100 Stay -10/14 -20/-4 0 » V i n t a g e ( p 9 7 ) J FDNOSAJJMAM » L e o p o l i s H o t e l ( p 9 7 ) » Hotel Zaleski (p 111 ) May Stroll through July Experience August Crowds Lviv’s centre on a Ukrainian of pilgrims gather » K o s m o n a u t H o s t e l ( p 9 7 ) Sunday mornings, summer of love at Pochayiv when church at Pidkamin’s Monastery during music wafts along Ethnofestival. the Feast of the the streets. Assumption. History ern Ukraine never lost its taste for indepen- Mongols overrunning Kyivan Rus in 1240 dence. Several centuries of Polish domina- 87 never made it as far west as the powerful tion saw the rise of a unique Ruthenian province of Galicia-Volynia. They did occa- identity, which is the basis for much con- sionally knock on its door, but the region temporary Ukrainian nationalism. Many was largely left to enjoy self-rule under Galician boyars (nobles) – often sent from King Roman Mstyslavych, his son Danylo Poland, Germany or Hungary – adopted the Halytsky and his descendants. Polish language and Roman Catholicism. This idyllic state was shattered in the However, the peasants, also known as Ru- 1340s when Polish troops invaded, but west- thenians, remained Orthodox. They were e# 060km P 030miles Lake rypyat Svityaz 0¸E581 BELARUS a y i ‚ #\ r u Shatsk & WESTERNLVIV UKRAINE & WESTERN UKRAINE #÷ T VOLYN Lublin Shatsky National REGION Sarny #] Nature Park #\ Kovel Chelm 0¸E373 #\ 0¸E373 0¸M07 #\ RIVNE Horyn REGION POLAND #\ Volodymyr Hubkiv Lutsk #\ #\ Volynsky 0¸M08 #5 Zamosc Bug Novohrad Olyka V# ^# Rivne Volynsky r 0¸E40 #\ #\ 0¸E372 y St Korets #\ #\Chervonograd Dubno 0¸M21 0¸E40 ЛЬВІВ Svirzh Shepetivka #\ Zhovkva V# Brody #\ #\ #6 Kremenets 0¸E40 # & 0¸M10 #\ 4 #\ Pochayiv Przemysl Olesko 0¸M21 ## ЗАХІДНА #\ #\ #\ Shehyni 1 2 Pidkamin ch E40 0¸ #3 Lviv Starokostyantyniv lu Medyka #\ S 0¸M12 Sambir LVIV REGION Ternopil #\ ^# Berezhany Zb S Drohobych V# УКРАЇНА #\ e ^# r r Khmelnytsky uc #\ #\Truskavets e Boryslav t #\Stry TERNOPIL 0¸E85 h S Skole REGION tr #\ y Buchach Husyatyn #\ #\ 0¸E50 #\ #\ Bolekhiv ^# Chortkiv Volovets #\ Ivano- Czerwonogrod Borshchiv #\ #\ Frankivsk V# Kamyanets- Pylypets #æ 0¸P03 #\ Podilsky Optimistic Mukacheve 6#\ Mizhhirya #\ Ya r e m c h a #\ #\ Kolomyya Cave Dnister Lviv & Western Ukraine Highlights 1 Do a spot of cobble- 3 Pay your respects to 5 Take a turn around surfi ng in Lviv’s historical Lviv’s great and good of Lutsk’s old quarter (p 110 ) centre (p 89 ),666 which is yesteryear at the city’s for a blast from Western packed with churches, amazing Lychakivske Ukraine’s past museums and eccentric Cemetery (p 89 ) 6 Head uphill to restaurants 4 Join the Orthodox Kremenets Fortress (p 109 ) 2 Make a caff eine- faithful for a pilgrimage to for show-stopping views of and-cake halt at Lviv’s Pochayiv Monastery (p 108 ) the town’s many churches coff eehouses (p 102 ), some to fi nd Ukraine’s most of the best in the country devout atmosphere.
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