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4 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India 6 7 Apparel Online India 8 Apparel Online India 9 Apparel Online India VOL. XVIII Issue 19

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10 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com 11 Apparel Online India EDITORIAL

EDITOR- IN- CHIEF’S DESK REWIND 2015

REFLECTING THE INDUSTRY PULSE

January 16-31 Nothing has changed… except, of course, the year! New Year gift from the AEPC comes as a shocker to all Apparel House showroom holders enquiring about schedules of India Market Days to be held at the Apparel House for the year 2015 since EC Committee decides to discontinue the event… The callous attitude of the EC Committee continues as they did not have courtesy to inform the showroom holders of their decision immediately after the meeting…

February 1-15 Companies moving towards social sustainability… NGOs think otherwise So much talk is happening on the sustainability front… and the major element within the concept is ‘employee engagement’ and ‘social and environment responsibility’. NGOs seem to think that nothing has changed and there is more talk than action. So what is the real story… Are the workers still being grossly exploited as claimed or are the NGOs propagating the same for their own livelihood…!

February 16-28 Are we tackling labour issues responsibly...? The number of worker-related violence is disturbingly on the increase in the garment export industry in the Delhi- NCR region. Over the last few years, big names like Viva Global, CTA Apparels, Modelama and Orient Craft have witnessed angry workers pelting stones and destroying property leading to riot-like situations, halting work and calling for immediate management intervention for damage control. In all these cases the situation could have been averted…

March 1-15 Is ‘Make in India’ enough for true growth? ‘Make in India’ is an excellent initiative by the …, but the concept is nothing new… What is new is the single-minded thrust which the current Government is giving to this newly coined term. To succeed, we should first ‘Make India’, turning the country into a worthy place for ‘Make in India’ and that can only be done if we have ‘Clean India’, ‘Skilled India’ and ‘Corruption-free India’. The rest will follow automatically…

March 16-31 The fight for Accountability and Transparency is far from over… Change at the AEPC can happen only with a new team and that is only possible if every exporter registered with the AEPC is given a fair opportunity to vote for their representatives. Last year, a group of exporters under the aegis of AHEA had taken the bold initiative to drag the AEPC and the MoT to court demanding implementation of the Electronic Voting System (EVS), mandating adoption of EVS by all councils, including the AEPC…

April 1-15 Government funds must be judiciously given, used and accounted for… How serious is the Government on long-term sustenance of the handicraft and handloom sectors! When disbursing funds allotted for developing handloom clusters, the absence of a vision is visible in the selection of the final candidate to implement projects. Many micro and macro level schemes have been initiated with the agenda to develop handloom clusters; several crores of rupees in funds have reportedly gone into these projects, but not even one cluster has emerged as a benchmark…

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April 16-30 One disappointment after the other! The Modi Government has not given the garment industry the necessary thrust to be among the manufacturing industries of preferences. While the Government gave its nod to the MGNREGA scheme, the garment manufacturing industry was not connected to it; similarly new textile policy and the suggested changes in the labour laws remain a dream! Even the first full year budget was devoid of any benefit to the industry…

May 1-15 Change is in the air... finally! In our determination to put apparel exports on fast-track, we have been consistently pointing out the urgent need for change in the way the AEPC is functioning… Over the last few years, some committed people from the industry have come forward to share their experiences and concerns... As media we have honestly put these on our pages for the industry to evaluate and take a stand... Rarely does one get the chance to be a part of an unfolding change…, one that we have stood for, for a long time… But it happened with us on our recent visit to the Textiles Ministry as a part of a small, but highly motivated and determined delegation of industry colleagues… The open and honest acceptance that there were serious issues in export promotion that needed attention was a big high, but the declaration that the Ministry has already passed an order of making EVS mandatory for AEPC, was a triumph for the group.

May 16-31 Paying tribute to an icon of the industry: Kanval Dhillon The usual hustle-bustle of Monday morning was broken by a message from Leela, a good friend… Kanval Dhillon (MD, K Dhillon & Co.) passed away on Sunday, 3rd May 2015, much before her time. Even as we at Apparel Online were absorbing the news, the messages started pouring in, all wanted to share their grief…AO’s tribute to a lady who touched many hearts in the industry…

June 1-15 Two important news in the recent fortnight caught my attention... Two news that impact the industry – IAM (Institute of Apparel Management) in Gurgaon, has violated the UGC norms by signing a MoU with Mewar University for granting of degrees without UGC’s permission. Secondly, the Government’s announcement allowing children below the age of 14 to work with their parents in homeworkers- environment after their school hours or during vacation deprives them of all their rights evoked a strong reaction from some quarters… I personally feel that this move was long overdue and it has laid to rest fears that traditional crafts that are passed down through generations, will die out if children of artisans are not allowed to work and learn the craft.

June 16-30 Garmenting is the driver for growth in textile value chain… It’s time Ministry recognized this! The focus for the Government (Textiles Ministry) has always been for the poor, and schemes which appeal to masses have been promoted and cleared… The handlooms sector is the obvious choice for schemes and incentives since the sector represents clusters of poor artisans, and announcing of such schemes gets good media time. Is it not ironic that the segment that gets maximum benefits and media attention is actually the worst off!

July 1-15 Are businesses really professional? There are professionally managed businesses, and there are businesses wherein I recognize an owner as professional too. In that lies the difference in their success levels. The former knows that the business depends on people; it is these people who manage the show, so they deserve all the respect and grooming. It’s all about recruiting and retaining the right people…, making them responsible and responsive to take on bigger roles.

July 16-31 Is the depreciated rupee helping exporters...? Exports are picking up and for the right price; within this scenario the community is happily claiming that business is growing too. Statistics also corroborate the fact as business grew 12.2% in dollar terms in the FY 2014-15. Even the regular analysis done by my team for our data pages shows that despite market conditions, India made steady progress in both the US and European markets on both quantities and values in 2014.

August 1-15 Social issues hounding the industry; combine efforts by stakeholders the only solution Two recent reports – Workers being shoddily treated at factories, a PUDR report; and report by Savethe Children, an NGO, claiming 8,044 children between 6-18 years working in the garment industry have painted a very negative picture of the industry. Isolated meetings and finger pointing reports are not going to get results; synergy of thought and a collective effort to find solutions is required to get results.

14 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com EDITORIAL

August 16-31 Have the apparel institutes failed the industry and the students? Interviewing some youngsters for the organization and their naive responses to my very simple questions got me thinking... Are the institutes actually not doing a disservice to the students and the industry, by putting on blinkers and not evolving with time? Institutes must spend enough time and energy on reviewing curriculums, and encourage their faculty to be industry-informed; time and again the importance of staying abreast with industry needs by institutes has been stressed.

September 1-15 AEPC elections in December... Will EVS implementation be a turning point? EVS has been a long standing demand and the AEPC management body has been resisting the move for long, despite repeated notifications from the Textiles Ministry. But this time, the pressure and intensity was too strong for resistance, and the EVS system is in place! Even the Textiles Minister suggested that we get support from the industry to include all registered exporters in the election process.

September 16-30 Notifications on sustainable initiatives fail to garner response from industry... Are they too busy to care! Of late many new notifications are being issued by both the Central and State Governments with regard to sustainable initiatives for the common good of the public. While these notifications indicate the growing acceptance of the need for sustainable practices for industry to grow and compete on a global platform, the slow implementation and cold-shoulder response of the industry is disappointing.

October 1-15 Apparel House under the scanner! When the Apparel House was allotted to exporters’ in 2007, 242 showrooms promised to attract business for the lotunder the umbrella of Apparel International Mart (AIM)...; eight years later there are only 67 showrooms left and 50 companies maintaining the same! Today, a small group of showroom owners under the aegis of AHEA (Apparel House Exporters Association) are fighting a lonely battle for their right to receive export promotion support at the venue…

October 16-31 We need to revamp the structure and functioning of Export Promotion Councils… A lot has been said on how Export Promotion Councils are functioning or rather not functioning… In Bangladesh, the impact which BGMEA has on the RMG sector and the confidence with which it functions can be seen. But the same is missing in India… There are 10 EPCs under the Ministry of Textiles... Do we really need so many councils?

November 1-15 Is the TPP scare justified? There has been much talk about the impact of the TPP (Trans-Pacific Partnership) on exports from India... At a recent event many top honchos of textile companies expressed fear of losing out on business at every stage of the textile chain from to garmenting. But are the fears real or are they just hype?Industry watchers say the signing of the TPP will adversely impact the global business of Indian industry, I think otherwise…

November 16-30 Is the Buyer only worried about price? It is strange that we all keep talking about change, and the fact that most of it is Buyer-driven… The requirement to be a preferred supplier keeps growing and so do the efforts of the industry to keep pace… Talking to a Buyer or reading about his sourcing strategy, impresses one with issues like social sustainability, environmental concerns and safety issues, but in reality he cares for Price, Price and Price only…

December 1-15 AEPC Elections: Your business is at stake… If you wish to govern the Indian Nation, spend ten thousand rupees and fight the elections; but if you have to govern AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council), you need to spend one lakh rupees... I think the blame lies with entire apparel export community as most do not even care to apply for the voting right… There are around 4,000 exporters who are eligible to vote but never care to apply to be members (only 700 at present have registered).

December 16-31 Has the first spark of change just happened with EVS? An interesting outcome of the EVS is the appeals which have come in from the candidates for the AEPC elections... It seems like a Goliath vs. David story, where a small exporter who has shown the courage to enter the fray is pitted against big names that have been at the helm of affairs for a long time. We will know pretty soon the fate of this historic clash, but what is for sure is that the first spark of change has happened…

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MINDTREE REWIND 2015

SOME INTERESTING REPLIES RECEIVED FROM THE INDUSTRY...

January 16-31 Most importantly, ‘Land Bank’ – plots Q: How would you The year 2014 was a good year as the of manufacturers should not be kept for look back on the year apparel export business exited from the ‘investment’ purpose only, which is seen gone by…? ‘ICU’, but is still in hospital, and hopefully, very commonly in Delhi-NCR. – Dipin can go home in 2015 or 2016! But in the Oberoi, Owner, Dipin Creations India, Delhi long run, it all depends on Government March 16-31 policies, labour availability, and consistent Q: Lot of fabrics The entire process is cumbersome, power supply. Focus on North-East is also and accessories is both at Government as well as supplier required. – V S Chandira Kumar, imported from China, level. Due to shorter lead time, we don’t MD, Sentinel Clothing Company, Tirupur Hong Kong and have enough days to explore better February 1-15 other countries. What and cheaper sourcing options. Even to Q: As a buyer of Mills should follow new trends and are the difficulties get proper samples and analysing it is fabric, what are your the most selling designs, the quality at ground level in practically impossible, besides approval expectations from requirements and understand what the importing the same? and timely delivery are major issues. fabric manufacturers, industry wants. This mismatch in most of Specific quality is another challenge. both in terms of the cases happens in the construction and – Anshu Saxena, Director, Moissanite products and composition of the fabric. Due to such Apparels, Noida responsiveness…? issues of variations in fabric quality, colour April 1-15 etc., the mills and the industry always Q: Soon the Central Almost one year and updated Foreign have a lot of arguments. – Mohammad Government will Trade Policy has not been released. Nurul, Merchandiser, Asmara Bangladesh Ltd., complete one year in The interest rate subvention was Dhaka (Bangladesh) power, but no major discontinued on 31st March 2014, February 16-28 change in policies leading to increase in financial favouring the textile Q: It is being The Government should stop misuse of servicing cost. With the EU markets or apparel export speculated that duty drawback so that only the genuine being thoroughly in the doldrums, our industry is seen…, duty drawback exporters enjoy its advantages. We costs are becoming non-competitive your comment... may be on the way talk of ‘Make in India’ but on the other day by day. With hike in service tax, out for exports. side there is no level playing field. the refund of service tax against e-STR Your comment… Government support exporters; else they must be increased. There are customs will focus on domestic business, as it delays in the release of duty drawback is comparatively easy at most stages. – where the EGM (Export General Palak Kubadia, Proprietor, Kalakruti Apparels, Manifest) is delayed; also there are errors in the EGM. – SP Mundra, Proprietor, March 1-15 Rajat Collections, Q: Change Continuation of interest subvention April 16-30 seems to be the scheme, increase in rate of duty Q: There have always For export or domestic, PD is a must as underlining theme drawback and focus on SME sector been contradictions you cannot run business in the long-term. for India today… are the issues where I expect support/ in whether Indian We did PD with 5 designer teams, and What changes you change from the Central Government. companies are increased turnover from Rs. 2 crore to would like to see in ‘Make in India’ discussion is popularising. doing PD or not… Rs. 250 crore in a span of 4 years (2003 our industry…? Sectors like defence or areas requiring Where does your to 2006), majority were US buyers. We high technology should be welcomed company stand? participated in Magic shows in the US for foreign investors; textile or apparel and got good orders from new buyers. manufacturing sector should be We believe in giving consistent service encouraged internally with more support. to the existing buyers. Now working in

16 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com MINDTREE

domestic Indian market with own brands areas with dense population like Orissa, RHAM, RHAM GOLD and BLUROLLER West Bengal, Bihar and also Kashmir and growing. – Raghavendra K S, Director – where at present handloom sector is Business Development, Rhamkumaar Impex, prevalent. – Shiv Bhargava, President, Bangalore Exporters Grievances Association, Noida May 1-15 June 1-15 Q: Increasingly Payment terms must be prioritized over Q: Often dates of The clashing of dates is due to new buyers are better margins; even if a buyer’s prices international fairs lack of communication and proper deceiving exporters are ‘sharp’ but he is willing to part an clash disappointing planning… The concerned ministry by placing orders advance or open clean sight LCs from Indian exporters… needs to step in to sort this out, and and not making prime banks, let this be the criteria for Any suggestions those involved in managing and final payments taking orders. DP (Documents against on improving such organizing such international fairs and after shipment; Payments) and DA (Documents against promotional events? exhibitions also need to take care of any solutions to Acceptance) terms should be firmly turned such occurrences. Also, many of the plug them? down by exporters unless the buyer is organizing committee members who a well-known person. Exporters should are into exports have their own interest also get a D&B (Dun & Bradstreet) report to grind and are not working as hard as on all buyers irrespective of ECGC they ought to. – Pradeep Nahata, Director, cover. – S. Srinivasan, Country Head, India, Karni Exports, Jaipur Mulitex Ltd., Chennai June 16-30 May 16-31 Q: The Rajasthan This is going to have a big impact on Q: Recently It’s certainly a very welcome and State Pollution export to traditional markets like Japan Foundation Stones of encouraging development initiated by Control Board issued and Europe as many designers from all two garment making the Textiles Ministry. It has gradually closure notices to over the world are visiting Sanganeer. centres were laid in and increasingly become very difficult 893 textile units in The city is main centre for hand block Sikkim and Imphal, to survive in the apparel trade in areas Sanganeer followed and hand screen printing and India’s both in the North- around the big current hubs like the NCR, by 739 textile units in image as an exporter started with ethnic East. Do you favour Bangalore, Bombay, Chennai and Tirupur. Jodhpur. Why is the designs from here in the 1970s. I think industry not serious to setting up a factory in Government should set up such textile NGT and Pollution Board should give a this region? such issues...? hubs around the country, especially in final deadline, say 6 months to a year,

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and in the meantime the Government of 10 years. We have policies which attracts Rajasthan and the Centre should jointly the staff/workers, like offering flats/ look for alternatives. – Deepak Vijay, housing facilities to middle-level CEO, Enn Enn Expo International, Delhi staff who complete 10 years with us. July 1-15 Besides, worker’s loyalty is the top-most Q: In recent years The certifications are important requirements and that is not possible we have seen an and improve the working standards without their engagement. – Zahir Sait, increase in the and ensure correct discipline in the Managing Partner/CEO, International number of companies business practice. While GOTS, Trading Company, Yercaud (Tamil Nadu) going in for various WRAP and SEDEX are related to September 1-15 certifications – social and ecological compliance, Q: The Central Being based in Varanasi, I can say that GOTS to WRAP to ISO applies to the processes and Government has this traditional culture of handloom SEDEX to ISO. Do standards followed by any organization. declared 7th August is almost dying as the community these certificates In our experience we have seen that as the National which is involved with handloom is actually help in having these certificates certainly Handloom Day struggling to survive, so such kind of securing business…? gives one a different identity in the every year Do you steps are welcome. However, I have global market and sets you apart from feel that this is a two suggestions – first, there should the mass. – Asmita, Export Manager, good move…? be a brand ambassador for handloom Mallcom India, Kolkata products; and secondly, sincere efforts July 16-31 should be made to build awareness Q: According to a Our Government’s friendly gesture and market and promote handloom recent report, a group to the neighbour country Bangladesh at domestic and international levels. – of industrialists from is not at all a welcome step for our Amitabh Singh, Director, Sorreal System/ Bangladesh want to textile fraternity, it is also being President, Eastern Uttar Pradesh Exporter’s set up a 1,000-store as a suicidal one, and the reason is Association, Varanasi retail chain in India. that next to agriculture the greatest September 16-30 Do you support employment generating industry is Q: AEPC Elections are Certainly yes, this time more and more the move…? textile. Though we are a populous slated for December exporters would cast their votes due to nation, next only to China, the 2015 and this time it the EVS. But I have my doubts about ‘blessing in disguise’ is that more will be held through how democratic the selection procedure than 60 per cent of it falls under 35 EVS (Electronic Voting is as most of the time we have the System). Will it bring years of age group. Our Government same faces being repeated. I may any change…? should work to uplift this share to at be aware and even familiar with the least 15-20 per cent, considering the person contesting from my zone and his production and population working or intension, but for candidates strength we have. – Raja M. Shanmugham, from other zones, it is difficult to make MD, Warsaw International, Tirupur a decision. – Ajay Mehta, Proprietor, August 1-15 Nidhi Design, Jaipur Q: There seems to Following fashion trends is number October 1-15 be a positive vibe all one point; Secondly, we are using Q: For the first time I feel it is too early to say anything around..., exporters advance machines and latest leading industrialists about the impact or result of this are busy and buyers technology in all the processes. It is Mukesh Ambani and meeting as both Mukesh Ambani and are looking at India not only about the manufacturing or Kumar Mangalam Kumar Mangalam Birla are corporate more aggressively... using ERP, but also having a strong Birla met and giants and have multi-directional Please share with internet. Thirdly, it is your relation expressed concern business in textile or apparel industry us your five tips with workers. Fourth it is the quality over the state of the rather than focusing only on garment textiles sector… This to success. which matters ultimately. Lastly, it is export business. But the Government meet’s impact on pollution – we all should learn a should promote SME sector especially the industry…? lesson from Tirupur… as soon ‘Zero in export; and secondly, address the Liquid Discharge’ will be ‘a must’ in increasing competition from China. – all the states. – Davinder Sandhu, MD, Pavneet Singh, Owner, Aiwit Fashion, Delhi Davinder Sandhu Impex Ltd., Ludhiana August 16-31 October 16-31 Q: Many exporters Most of the players in the industry Q: There is a global Suggestions are at two levels: personal today talk are complaining about price pressure movement to increase or individual level; and at Government or about employee and unavailability of workers, which wages at all garment policy level. At individual level, we saved engagement. Is your is right to some extent. But I strongly manufacturing a lot by educating the workers/staff, company making any believe that it all depends on your destinations; on the controlling the rejection rate, being strict activity for employee policies – how you manage things other hand retail on our TNA calendar, and improved engagement...? and your long-term planning. In my prices are being buyers’ services. At the Government or pushed downwards… factory at least 55 per cent of the policy level, changes in labour laws or Your comment…? workers have been working with us some decision favouring the garment for last 7 years and about 40 per cent exporters is required. – Rajinder Jamwal, of the middle-level staff from the last Partner, Trend Exports, Noida

18 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com MINDTREE

November 1-15 December 1-15 Q: How important is PD is the only way to differentiate India Q: The role of I did Masters in Fashion Product Development from Bangladesh/China, and one of the merchandisers is Merchandising from Pearl, Delhi and (PD) to your biggest reasons why buyers still look at often underplayed am running my own business as a company? India as an option. Be it in the form of and many companies fabric supplier, so I am in touch with fabric/weaves/embellishments or value feel that they are merchandisers. I feel merchandisers in additions, we clearly have an edge not fully equipped export houses are not getting their credit over the rest of the world. India must with skills to and also the salary they deserve, while in keep up the reputation of being great service the Buyers. buying houses the same person is getting in creativity and product development Your comment… more salary and learning a lot. No matter whilst striking a right note of affordability how highly educated he/she is, they are by the brands.” – Nagesh Badida, Dy. treated by their seniors as a junior or a Executive Director, Aquarelle Casual Shirts, ‘helper’ only; even their creativity and Bangalore ideas don’t get any execution or even November 16-30 discussed, forget about appreciation. Q: accounts My views are more concerned with – Sanyam Mehra, MD, Fabtex Creations, for around 60% of the knitwear garments, especially in Tirupur. Amritsar total global clothing The garment manufacturing community December 16-31 market, yet Indian is focusing mainly on cotton because of Q: How often has the There is nothing like margins shared exporters prefer to the non-availability of trusted processing buyer shared margins by buyers; we will at the most get play safe with cotton facilities for man-made fibres/clothing. with a supplier for repeat orders of the same but without as the backbone of Even if we go for it, we have to pay more good sales, and is extra penny. Ethical sourcing is a must the product basket for such processing and in turn we cannot Transparency a one- for most of the buyers but again they on offer... compete with price. The polyester fibres way terminology? don’t pay anything extra for it, but show are mainly being imported through some Also Reverse Score only appreciation. As far as Transparency big shots and who even increase the Card has been talked is concerned, no buyer is ever open price of raw materials overnight which about in certain about his margins, but they do help sustainability forums, discourages exporters to work with man- if we have any problem in sourcing. your comment… made fibres. – C. Rathinaswamy, Proprietor, – Vidur Nath, Director, Nath Bros Exim Freeway Clothing Company, Tirupur International, New Delhi

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BUSINESS REWIND 2015 STRATEGIES

GLOBAL STRATEGIES FOR INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

June 16-30 June 1-15 April 16-30 Shiva International Kingdom Holdings Magsons Exports is goes organic; Limited world’s now AEO certified; Offers GOTS largest manufacturer First garment certified activewear of ... exporter to be for women certified

medium-level, but progressive ingdom Holdings Limited, China imilar to the SAFE framework Aexporter of fashion garments, Kshifted its focus towards linen Sof standard adopted by World Shiva International is known for yarn in 1999 with a small capacity Customs Organisation (WCO), to its fashionable and trendy clothes of 5,000 spindles and today the secure and facilitate global trade, is and also for its brand ‘Pluss’, which company has grown to become the the Indian Customs Administration’s caters to plus-size fashion. Taking largest in terms of linen exports with Authorised Economic Operator its capabilities a notch higher to find a capacity of 100,000 spindles. In an (AEO) certificate programme, a niche in the competitive market, exclusive interaction with Team AO at which provides export and import the company initiated a dedicated Kingdom’s beautiful corporate office businesses with an internationally line for GOTS certified activewear/ on the outskirts of Shanghai, Eric Sun, recognized quality mark indicating yogawear 2 years ago... International Commercial Director, their secure role in the international shares the company’s strategy of supply chain and the customs “At that time the international tapping potential emerging markets... procedures. Magsons Exports, sister market was dipping and I found that concern of Jyoti Apparels, is the first there was no availability of plus- “In , linen is less from the garment export industry size clothing, so we tried to fill in than one per cent of the total to receive this newly constituted the gap within the Indian market.” conceptualized textile fibres. So certification in India. – Sandeep Aggarwal, Proprietor, nobody wants to make investment to Shiva International develop new types of machinery...” “There is a complete traceability – Eric Sun, International Commercial along the supply chain as the style Director, Kingdom Holdings Limited number and the purchase order number of every resource has to be mentioned in all the documents...” – H.K.L. Magu, MD, Jyoti Apparels

20 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BUSINESSSTRATEGIES

May 16-31 May 1-15 People, the force January 16-31 Bhandari Hosiery Ginza Industries behind Texperts’ Exports taking the Limited: The largest success; Innovation sustainable route for integrated exporter and creativity keys growth of lingerie in India… to future growth

ith a fully integrated setup n international textile sourcing, volving on niche strengths has Wfrom yarn to fabric to apparel, Amarketing and garment Ebecome critical for growth in also including accessories and value buying house, Texperts India a market which is becoming not addition, Ginza Industries Limited Private Limited has developed an only fiercely competitive, but is also has made a niche in the market by extensive network of customers constantly demanding freshness. offering close to 10,000 different and suppliers in more than 63 With an integrated setup from products, all focusing on excellent countries since its inception in circular to retail, Bhandari craftsmanship and innovation. 2002. A value-enhancer to existent Hosiery Exports has been consistently Recently, the company has entered businesses, Texperts facilitates trade upgrading its three critical units: the lingerie market, both domestic of about 10,000 tonnes of fibres, knitting, processing and garmenting. and exports, and has also launched , fabrics and garments per From basic fabrics the company is the brand ‘SOIE’ ( in French) month. In an exclusive interview now concentrating on specialized for intimatewear, nightwear and with Apparel Online, an extremely fabrics, for which it is focusing on women’s fashionwear, which is articulate Yatish Pandey, Founder processing. It has invested Rs. 30 getting a positive response. With its Member, Texperts, who generally crore (US $ 5 million) in the past integrated manufacturing setup, the prefers to remain in the background, one year, and for the next two years company is today a frontrunner in the talks about his approach to it will continue to invest more in lingerie manufacturing sector. business and what truly makes processing which it sees as a very Texperts successful – the people weak area in the textile chain, but a “Many questions were raised when associated with it. hugely potential growth platform for we started apparel in Surat and that companies willing to take the plunge. too with it such technical products like “I believe we are in the business lingerie, which was a huge challenge of creating entrepreneurs and with “India suffers a lot because we do for us. But then we thought we have our success we have set a trend not not have the proper processing, and the basic raw material, financial only in India, but outside the country people who did go for processing backing and inherent strengths, also. We have this ‘Lagaan’ team, are not considering the environment so why not Surat… We had ready so we tell them to do the best they angle, but we all saw how Tirupur customers for lingerie, who we had can. It doesn’t matter how much suffered for a whole year and been supplying some or the other they know, but it matters how much was practically closed down. product categories such as fabrics, they want to accomplish and we Strengthening one’s processing and elastics, , etc. We took the give them as much freedom as they looking after the environment has plunge for manufacturing lingerie in want to realize the dream... “It is to go hand in hand… Right now our 2005, initially for exports, and only an exciting time for people like us focus is on high-value processed 2 years back we entered the domestic who are doing different things. It’s fabrics, for which we are getting market…” – Ashok Sethia, MD, an opportunity and we are much enquiries from Bangladesh and Sri Ginza Industries Ltd. energized... “Textiles, is a very huge Lanka, and are now also targeting industry and each area has a super Turkey…” – Nitin Bhandari, Director, specialization. So we are now looking Bhandari Hosiery Exports (seen below at specializing within each area and with his father Naresh Bhandari) strengthening it.” – Yatish Pandey, Founder Member, Texperts

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 21 BUSINESSSTRATEGIES

October 1-15 November 1-15 August 16-31 Survival is Indian Stitchers 25 years of New impossible aiming for new Delhi Export House: without heights with ‘Be focused and Government organic keep walking’ – The strategy forward! support

ith rich experience of working ompletion of 40 years in the ost of the time Apparel Online Wfor 8 years in various export Capparel business, 25 years of Mdiscusses companies that are houses, Rajesh Taneja started his helming a growing organization growing despite difficult situation own company Indian Stitchers and close to achieving the magical with their different strategies, niche 10 years ago and has, in this turnover of Rs. 100 crore, can be a products or other such specialties to decade long journey, achieved a proud moment for anybody but for motivate and create examples to be commendable turnover of Rs. 35 Kusum Uppal, Founder of New Delhi emulated, but it cannot be ignored crore in FY 2014-15. Indian Stitchers Export House (NDEH), Noida, it is that a major part of the industry holds the distinction of being one just another milestone in her long is struggling or just managing of the few companies in India career. A family-driven company, to survive, especially small- and doing organic garments in knits as NDEH has achieved 100 per cent medium-level companies. To well as . Continuously growth in the last five years, yet is overlook their issues is a disregard adding new categories, products not in an expansion mood but has to a large section of the industry… and new buyers has been one of the instead set targets for optimization AO had a deep interaction with main reasons for the success of the of current setup. A firm believer of Girish Kumar Pareek, MD of the two company. Having realized early the spreading out risks, NDEH is working decades old Savi Exports, one of the importance of investing profits back with on an average 28 buyers from well-known export houses of Jaipur, into the business, Rajesh has never mass to class with not more than 8 who honestly shared the plight of shied away from making financial per cent turnover dedicated to any companies like his in today’s difficult commitments on growth, which has one of them. With priority to work market conditions. supported this entrepreneur, who with virgin markets and relatively though belonged to a middleclass newer buyers, Kusum shares her family, didn’t have passion for big journey and vision… “The business is dying as profitability cars and big houses, instead he is ending and we are doing it for possesses a passion for organized the sake of survival/existence with “We don’t believe in the rat race and factories and good products. one can’t base their strategy on what the only hope to look forward to others are doing, so exploring newer is an improvement in the market “We grew because we continuously markets and a newer buyer is our conditions, but nobody knows when added on to our product offerings, strength as well as the reason of our it will happen. We are struggling like we started with normal woven growth too… While Argentina is still to continue the business to keep ladies garments, then we added considered a virgin market, Brazil has the customers with the hope that kidswear, after that we got into knits, been highlighted from the last two whenever the economy of his country heavy knits and value additions. years and more orders are coming will improve, we will get some more Continuing with the same strategy from there. To enter such market, we business. We are just trying to retain we stepped into organic almost four also hire local marketing teams...” the infrastructure and team we have years ago. Now we have certifications – Kusum Uppal, Founder, New Delhi built after years’ of hard work, not and accreditations from GOTS, Export House (NDEH) making profit. There is no other way Sedex, BSCI, Textile Exchange and apart from working on lesser profit…” Inditex audit team...” – Rajesh Taneja, – Girish Kumar Pareek, MD, CEO, Indian Stitchers Savi Exports

22 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BUSINESSSTRATEGIES

March 1-15 Living by the philosophy of ‘Being the biggest September 16-30 and the best’, Sahiba Limited on expansion spree Eastman Exports’ e-Commerce initiative a success… Data analysis and quality, The determination to be different as also the zeal to be the biggest in whatever key to growth they do has propelled Sahiba Limited into the big league of value-added fabrics. This Surat-based company is a true integrated setup for all types of finished fabrics for both the international and domestic market. Unlike many Consistent growth, backed by quality product and other fabric suppliers in Surat, the company does not believe in getting any responsive service that can guarantee complete work outsourced, and has built in-house capabilities for processing, embroidery customer satisfaction, defines the winning strategy and most recently digital printing. Team AO met two of the enterprising next at Eastman Exports, Tirupur, driven by the vision and generation inheritors of the company – Jashpreet Saluja and Aman Saluja – for acumen of N Chandran, CMD of one of India’s top a rundown on what keeps this innovative group motivated… apparel export companies. Taking forward his dynamic legacy is his son Cibi Karthic, who is not only learning the nuances of the export business, but has also been “Though we are a family business, we run instrumental in starting a new vertical through an the company in a very professional way. in-house brand ‘Huetrap’, which is their vehicle to Each department is headed by a family enter the e-Commerce domain. Speaking exclusively member, supported by a well-trained to the father-son duo, Apparel Online unravels team, many of whom have been with us the new vertical of the company and the changing for years.” – Aman Saluja business dynamics.

“We want to give all types of value “Our ultimate goal addition options to our buyers and is sustainable textile also have complete control over production. Confidence the quality and design, for that it is has come back, and if important to have in-house facilities…” we talk about recycling, – Jashpreet Saluja (Jash) we are the best in the world; we can say we are 15-20 years ahead April 1-15 of the rest of the world. Resurgent Morarjee Textiles Ltd. focuses on strategic expansion; Technical Textiles the future Also I can say that the Sumangali issue, of which this region Since inception, quality and service has been the hallmark of Morarjee has been accused of, Textiles Ltd. which is amongst the oldest and most reliable textile companies does not pertain to in the country that has survived the many ups and downs which this industry the garment industry has seen in the past few decades. Today, a leading global player in the and buyers should premium cotton shirting fabric and high-fashion printed fabric, the company’s consumer base pans 44 countries, including international brands such acknowledge and as ZARA, Esprit, Hugo Boss, Next, to name a few. Hit by a lean period in end this debate...” – business some years ago, the company has made a strong comeback with N Chandran, CMD, a fresh strategy and systems in place. In conversation with Team AO at Eastman Exports their beautiful office in the heart of Mumbai, Harsh Piramal, Executive Vice Chairman and R K Rewari, CEO & Executive Director, shared strategies the company has incorporated for better profitable performance and also discuss the future growth path. “The response is surprisingly good. “Today our business is both performing When I came back as well as sustainable since we are in from England I wanted the niche segment in which there are to create designs that only a handful of focused players, as I would wear – which this segment is very design and quality- to my surprise didn’t driven… During the relocation of the sell. The designs which factory we narrowed down operations looked good, but to two businesses – prints and shirting. were not my personal We started the prints factory in 2003, as favourites, were the ones we felt that ‘prints’ was an area for the that were selling a lot; future.” – Harsh Piramal, Executive Vice so it was very interesting Chairman, Morarjee Textiles to see the data, what customers liked, and “Our aim is to grow to 1 million metre per what was happening. month in a shorter term in yarn dyed and Today, in terms of 2.5 million metre per month in prints; so in quality, customers can order to achieve that whatever backward differentiate my brand...” and forward integration is required, – Cibi Karthic, Director, we are doing…” – R K Rewari, CEO & Eastman Exports Executive Director, Morarjee Textiles

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 23 SPECIALFEATURES

SPECIAL REWIND 2015 FEATURES

UPFRONT INDUSTRY TAKING LEAD

July 16-31 September 1-15 MIDDLE-LEVEL ‘PREFERRED SUPPLIERS’ OF WHATSAPP BRINGS THE NCR AND THEIR OPERATIONAL STRATEGIES TAMIL NADU INDUSTRY TOGETHER Collaborative initiatives leading to ver the time, buyers stopped coming to NCR for basic garments cooperative competition Oand the region became a hot spot for products adorning value addition, intricate detailing and flexibility in manufacturing. ommunication plays a major role in enhancing businesses and while However, instead of easing the competition, it created a whole new Cmany IT tools are being used to monitor and improve systems within circle of struggle, as everyone in the region was making similar the factory, there are very few times when we see the industry utilizing products and the buyers were spoilt for choices. To fight such fierce tools such as WhatsApp effectively. When Whatsapp becomes not just competition, NCR exporters started to differentiate and develop some a mode of communication but also of collaboration, between players core strengths... of the textile industry of Tamil Nadu, it gives rise to Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF). Currently having 3 different groups on WhatsApp Gurmeet Singh, consisting of 200 young entrepreneurs, ITF is bringing together collective intelligence and inclusive growth between all its members along the Owner, Fredbi Fashions textile value chain. “It’s like putting all eggs in one basket, which is quite risky, believe Prabhu Dhamodharan, Secretary, ITF most exporters, but this kind of an “Once the Regional Comprehensive operational strategy has worked for Economic Partnership (RCEP) comes us. Earlier it was Hettlage and now into practice, cotton textiles will get an it is M&S. 80% of our business is advantage because China is imposing owned by M&S…” duty on yarn and fabric from India till now, which we are expecting will come Sidharth Sawnhey, down to zero. We are definitely more Director, Indian Hand Fabs competitive in cotton textiles than China. Through ITF, we are representing the “The buyers, who come to us, know whole value chain, so that we can come they are going to get a different together for a common programme and product, difficult to duplicate. No speak in a single cohesive language to buyer ever comes to us for a basic the world and the Government…” garment. We are capable of providing any value addition or detailing that is required by our customers…” Srihari Balakrishnan, President, KG Fabriks Ltd. “Here we are trying to be self- Sanjay Chawla, sustainable and use everybody’s Owner, Cotton Harbour intelligence to sustain in a cooperative “If a buyer comes up to me for a competition… “Our business is like our product, I wouldn’t want him to go DNA. At the end of the day, no one can to some other factory in the same copy my DNA and I cannot copy anyone region for another product. I do else’s, so where is the fear? For me, it smaller quantities and my USP is to has been a learning experience. We are provide any kind of product that my learning from each other and together, buyer would want…” we represent huge numbers.”

24 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com SPECIALFEATURES

March 1-15 STRATEGIES SET THROUGH IDENTIFICATION OF STRENGTHS PUSHING LUDHIANA TOWARDS NEXT PHASE

oving slowly from family run businesses (lala culture) to professionally-run organizations, Ludhiana-based garment exporters are moving Mforward by identifying their strengths and setting strategies for growth, be it focusing more on product development, creating product niche, working with a set kind of buyers or increasing thrust on technology. With second generation of the business taking the lead role, these strategies are proving successful which is motivating not only for them, but also for the entire industry to initiate more of such focused strategies. Apparel Online recently met 4 progressive companies on their growth strategies...

VK Goyal, ED & CEO of Akhil Seth, Director, “The time we are able Amit Jain, second the SEL Manufacturing Versatile Enterprises to save by outsourcing generation of the Company Limited of knitting and business and President, “Even till date most people is more precious than Shingora Textiles “For the time being, we don’t know what the the little extra cost that want our business to be applications of laminated “We are focused and we pay, which in reality less complex; therefore, bonded fabrics are... so specialize more in hardly matters in the final at present, we don’t work we show them complete design inputs, we don’t costing of the end-product. with the giants, who product applications. With want to get into mass By putting the extra time have more elaborated our experience of exports, volume fabrics, but we in garmenting, we get and complex demands. we are now on the lookout do want to be present better margins and faster However, going forward, to invest in machinery for in very specialized deliveries.” – Kanwardeep we shall certainly plan to seam sealed garments. areas, so we are trying Singh, MD and Pavneet work with giant retailers Once we finalize the to get into this kind of Singh, ED of the like Walmart, Target, machines, we will use our fabrics.... For me, PD Grandway Incorporated Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, in-house fabric advantage is about fundamental who initiated garmenting UCB, GAP, etc. to name to manufacture cost- changes in products.” and are now expecting 25 a few, and many others effective workwear and we per cent growth. Ishpaul across the globe. Though, are sure for further growth Singh, Chairman is the we can certainly deal with with these products…” guiding force behind the the complexities but that company. The company has a higher cost and you works only with the US have to spend larger share buyers and that too with of limited and expensive those offering volumes management time.” (basic minimum 25,000 pieces; colours may be 5 or more).”

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 25 BUYERSSPEAK

BUYERS REWIND 2015 S P E A K…

BUYERS BAT FOR CHANGE WITH SUGGESTIONS

October 16-31 VASTRA 2015: BUYERS’ FEEDBACK

t was the third and the last day of the recently concluded Vastra 2015 in Jaipur and there were very few buyers at the venue. Most of them claimed Ito be wholesalers, but their sourcing is very limited and in fact they seemed to be very small buyers. However, to their satisfaction, the buyers claimed to have found whatever they were looking for. Since many of them are frequently sourcing from the ‘Pink City’, Apparel Online tried to figure out what exactly they are looking for and their wish list to improve Jaipur as a sourcing hub. The organizers claimed that 250 buyers and more than 150 buying agents/buying houses visited the fair, but visibility was not so high...

THEODORE ALEKSOV, PAOLO ZANI, ART COO, MACEDONIA DIRECTOR, WARLI, ITALY “Jaipur-based “Exporters should not expect manufacturers should orders in two days, as we need do some fusion of time to develop our designs.” traditional styles with ALISON OTWAY, western culture.” CALLIOPE GRIGOREA, MARKETING VISION QUEEN CALLIOPE, SA, PANAMA ATHENS “I feel Jaipur is good as “Jaipur-based exporters need this hub is comfortable for to improve on delivery time small orders directly from as this is the only point where factories, more choice

DEANNE RICHARDS, Jaipur exporters are not available in designs/styles. SUSWAR, AUSTRALIA reliable, they have to be more There are great designs, focused and organized to fabrics and patterns in Jaipur DORA POPOVA, PROPRIETOR “In Jaipur, price and quality is very give better attention to order but exporters don’t put MANAGER, BULGARIA accessible, colours and designs are execution.” them together in a perfect “Material which is being used in also good.” way, sometimes with some Jaipur now needs to improve; Jaipur suppliers quality control is exporters should think beyond also lacking. summerwear also.”

26 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com BUYERSSPEAK

August 1-15 BUYER’S PERSPECTIVE Indian industry growing… But problems still persist

survey conducted by AO revealed that while the bigger exporters are working mostly through buying houses and liaison offices, there are over A1,000 exporters who are doing an annual business of an average Rs. 15 crore per year and primarily working with small- and medium-size wholesalers, importers and small chain stores from various countries. While many of these small buyers have been working in India for a long time and many have even accepted the vagaries of working in the country, the urge to see a change is obvious.

Korabelskaya Natalia, Marina Potemkina, Head Head of Production Team, of Purchase Department, Department of Men’s Fashion-Sport, Russia & Ladies’ garments, “Quality of Indian products is accessories, Snejnaya Tracey Farrington, not best but is acceptable, like Koroleva, a retail chain of MD, Bondi Beach Bag sometimes they have issues 100 stores Co., Fiji, a wholesaler in stitching also,” she claims “We are sourcing men’s and & importer of fashion Koki Veber, Director, “Indian exporters should also ladies garments from India apparel & accessories. Sariko, Slovenija increase focus on products since the last five years “I wish to shift some Chinese like jackets and skiwear,” but Indian manufacturer’s “My sales girls always ask me order of hats to India, but she concluded.” production period is very long. that why there is invariably a India does not have many of I can’t understand why it is so.” difference between what we the required raw materials approve and what we get! and I am forced to source it Even in small lots of say 300 from China.” pieces, the goods are not the same when compared to the sample.”

Karine Dupouy, Fashion Fernando Asuar De La Designer, Seychelles Calleja, Servicotex SL, Sadrettin Coka, Asude (Armanda/ “I am in the process to start Spain my sourcing from India as I Kroren), Turkey (Importer) “Sometime exporters change like the products made in the “We are looking at partnerships for the price after a few weeks of country, especially the kind of shawls and scarves as we already finalizing all the things, which embroidery and soft tropical have some partnerships in Turkey is very wrong and difficult to fabrics like cotton, viscose, and China; our priority is something Natalie Centaine, manage. They don’t remain , etc. that the exporters different and special compared to other firm on their words despite Azure, Australia can offer. I am finding it difficult countries. From design perspective, written communication, we “Ideal sampling time should to start, as initially I would like India’s products are good and variety just try to solve such issues be a maximum of 2 to 3 to start with 100 pieces for is really interesting, but we could not by increasing the frequency of weeks, but most Indian which I am ready to pay a price find what we wanted as 90 per cent communication.” exporters take double the time accordingly because I know of scarves are in cotton and polyester than this. I am now exploring my order size is too small, but as our requirement is 100 per cent silk suppliers who can work on Indian exporters are not too (pure), which very few exporters are faster turnaround time.” enthusiastic for this.” interested to do.”

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 27 BUYERSSPEAK

February 16-28 SMALL- AND MEDIUM-LEVEL BUYING HOUSES FACING DIFFICULTIES IN QUICK SOURCING ON THE INCREASE SHIFTING MARKET SCENARIO

February 1-15 hough most buying offices agree Bipin Sehgal joins Tesco International Sourcing Tthat order position is good now and business is definitely back on Bipin Sehgal, Ex Director – Sourcing & Production at All Saints track; however, it is also a reality India, has now taken on a bigger role, having recently joined Tesco that problems still exist especially for International Sourcing office at Gurgaon as GM, handling entire Indian medium-level buying houses; be it the subcontinent. “It is challenging and I am enjoying the new role as the changing priorities of buyers as well as dynamics are different. Though I am handling subcontinent and we vendors, increasing demand for sampling from Europe but less conversion resulting have annual sourcing of 275 million pound from India, Bangladesh, Sri into extra cost and useless exercise, or Lanka and Pakistan, I believe India has full scope and strength to grow, buyer’s priority to work directly with especially compared to China and other neighbouring countries.” those vendors with whom earlier he was working through buying houses. A September 1-15 recent change in policy with regard to service tax is another problem which is Buying house ‘Rare Texsource’ starts own manufacturing claimed to have added an extra burden Rare Texsource, a 4-year old Chennai-based buying house, recently on buying agents/buying houses. Though started its own manufacturing (Raretex Fashions) in Tirupur, with a these problems differ from company to capacity of 50,000 pieces per month. Sourcing woven shirts, shorts company and buyer to buyer, AO takes a closer look on ground realities… and tees and having clients in UK and Spain, it overall sources around 1,50,000 pieces per month and has total of 16 vendors in India. We felt there are many buyers who don’t prefer to work with buying house and want to source directly from the factory. We don’t Vipin Bhutani, VP, Soul, want to lose such buyers…” – Sunil T, MD, Rare Texsource a Delhi-based buying agency “Good and big export houses are as September 16-30 usual supporting us in terms of timely Vlerick Kids Fashion NV is looking for deliveries and we have not felt any premium kidswear manufacturers changes in their priorities. Texport Industries, Bangalore is one of them. Belgium-based company Vlerick Kids Fashion NV is looking for The only issue we are facing is the exporters of kidswear that can offer premium products and are ahead price pressure.” in PD. Currently having more than 20 vendors in Mumbai, Delhi and Chennai, the company is equally into sourcing of knits and woven products. Senthilnathan S.M., heading the company’s India office in M. Anand, General Secretary of Tirupur, shared – “We are mainly into premium articles and are looking the association and MD of Dean for such exporters who are also specializing in the same category…” Textile, Tirupur

“Whatever commission we are October 1-15 getting from overseas buyers, is not The Edinburgh Woollen Mill (EWM) Group completely our income as we have many inaugurates new office expenditures and also we are getting The EWM Group operates 1,200 stores in the UK and internationally foreign currency for the country so we via its many retail fascias Peacocks Stores Ltd., Pondon Home, Jane deserve exemption from this. We have Norman, ProQuip and The Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores. A simple given a memorandum to the Government lamp lighting ceremony was attended by a close network of long-term but still not got any positive response…” suppliers and a buying team from the Edinburgh Woollen Mill stores. The Group will continue to develop their sourcing from the region for Paresh Vora, Production Head, each of their retail brands. H&G Textile, Mumbai

“European buyers are now asking for December 1-15 more and more sampling compared Axstores to increase apparel sourcing to last few seasons but not converting The Delhi-based India office of the Axstores Far East Limited of them into orders. Though it is a routine Sweden mostly sources home products and apparel, which is problem from buyer’s side but as it is on just 25 per cent of its total sourcing, but now the buying office is the increase, it is adding more worries to in the process to increase its apparel sourcing as markets start to the buying houses, especially to those stabilize. “Last year, Axstores increased its apparel sourcing by more who are working with European market than 30 per cent and currently the apparel sourcing from India is only. To avoid this issue our company US $ 3 million working with 6 regular suppliers based in north India is asking for sampling charges, not to and Tirupur,” informed Anika Passi, Country Head of the company. all, but with new buyers or wherever the number of samples is large...”

28 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com HUBSUPDATE

H U B S REWIND 2015 UPDATE

CENTRES UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

August 16-31 2 3 FRESH THRUST TO INDUSTRY IN WEST 4 BENGAL; KOLKATA 1 STRENGTHENING AS SOURCING HUB

o the dismay of many, Kolkata Tas a garment manufacturing destination is still underdeveloped, and though it is estimated that total business in the region from ‘sewing’ is worth about one billion dollars plus, apparel exports from Kolkata is just about US $ 235.60 million (Rs. 1,500 crore), of which kidswear is a major segment and that too going mostly to the Middle-East. Fashion garments is not the forte of the region, but intricate embroidery 5 for very high-end brands and design houses is going to the western world in large quantities, 6 but mostly undocumented. Another product for which this 7 area is known for is workwear, which though a focus segment of the city, accounts for just around 1 “We can think of export market only when we have been 4 “The current facility is short of being utilized at 100% US $ 31 million (Rs. 200 crore) able to consolidate our position in the local market and level right now; otherwise we can reach a turnover of in the exports basket. In this for that we have to compete and deliver products at US $ 8-10 million (Rs. 60-70 crore) easily from the same par with international brands. That is why all innerwear stagnated scenario the new textile setup.” – Gayan Ruhunage, President – Apparel brand owners are targeting the young brand conscious policy that envisages to establish Manufacturing, EKF generation with new upmarket options promoted by West Bengal as a leading producer celebrities.” – PR Agarwala, Chairman, Rupa of globally competitive value-added 5 “For the export industry to grow I think the industry textiles and apparel products, for needs favourable labour laws to put up organized both domestic and international 2 “We have supplied our products to companies such as setups.” – Anil Buchasia, MD, Amrit Exports markets, has put hope into the BMW, Audi and other such end-users through a third industry that things are now set to company.” – Ajay Mall, Managing Director, Mallcom “Options are limited in Kolkata for international buyers change... Today, Kolkata has four (India). Mallcom started workwear in 1990 and the 6 and by and large quality is not as per International distinct business models in textiles, company has today grown to become a complete standard and timely delivery is still a major problem.” – babywear and undergarments workwear solution provider with annual revenues Alok Prakash, MD, Jiwanram Sheoduttrai Industries in knits for the domestic market, upwards of US $ 45 million (Rs. 300 crore). and workwear and intricate embroidery work, mostly panels for “The biggest challenge in babies wear is colour, even 3 “The demand of workwear is not growing in the western 7 the international market. Players world because newer manufacturing industries are the best of styles will fall flat if it is not in a colour in each are different and only few coming up majorly in Asia, which has become the appropriate to babies so we have different shades of companies have moved beyond world’s manufacturing hub and these companies are the blues, pinks, greens and whites every season.” this traditional pattern. Yet changes becoming more sensitive about the workwear safety.” – Pradeep Arora, Director Cotton Casuals, the are happening. – Pankaj Madhogaria, Director, JPM Exports owners of the brand ‘Zero’ a trend setter in Kolkata

www.apparelresources.com | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | Apparel Online India 29 HUBSUPDATE

January 16-31 LUDHIANA SPINNERS LOOKING TO EXPAND UNDETERRED BY EXCESS SUPPLY OF YARN…

nce considered as the nerve centre for the textile industry with big names like Vardhman, Oswal, Nahar and Trident, based in the city, OLudhiana had a thriving business in both cotton and acrylic yarn; however now the city is losing its sheen with many of the top mills looking for greener pastures in other States like Gujarat, and Madhya Pradesh. As spindle capacities of the country increase manifolds, Punjab spinners are finding new ways to remain competitive. Team Apparel Online recently met top spinners in Ludhiana to check ground realities…

Vivek Verma, Managing Director, Square Corporation “Our presence in multiple markets across the globe gives us opportunity and advantage of feeling the Ajay Mittal, Director, pulse of the markets and Kaur Sain Spinners Ltd. hence our forecast of “One of the biggest factor markets, based on our which has allowed us inputs from various markets, to grow even in times of is generally correct.” recession is the fact that we maintain a balance between Nitin Sondhi, Executive your commodity yarn which Director, S.T. Cottex is a regular product and Exports also few niche products “It is important to keep a which keeps us on the pulse on how the market sourcing map.” is moving and regularly enhance the portfolio of the company. Going forward processing is the Amit Thapar, next growth strategy with Commercial President, plans in place to invest Ganga Acrowools Ltd. in a modern processing “We were the first unit both for yarns and company to drive acrylic Abhishek Ahuja, ... “Since we into India in 1974-75 and Director, ACL Group deal in a basic product, today in terms of capacity “In the towel industry, the differentiator is we are the second largest forward integration is our quality and timely in India for Acrylic and a natural progression. delivery, which is at par to Acrylic worsted yarns, Rajiv Garg, MD, Garg But towel’s is not our international norms.” but in exports we are the strength; we want to stick Acrylics Ltd. largest. The only simple to spinning, fabric and “To beat the competition, tagline and philosophy garmenting only. Our we converted our two we have been following main focus is towards units into mélange is ‘experience, expert value-added products yarn, some into slub; and innovation’. The key and our main strength is but now we are much to success these days is our quality... “The yarn more prepared, having innovation, you have to increased our volumes keep doing something Sarish Mittal, Director, business is essentially a in a number of products. different in the market, KSM Spinning Mills commodity business and We are into acrylics, each year we come up with “Now we will focus on those companies that polyester, polyester something interesting in more specialized yarns like have failed to upgrade cotton, cotton mélange, our product range and that compact yarn and value- and give quality as per slub yarns, dyed yarns, is where the customers’ added yarn for technical the current standards double yarns, acro , expectations are.” textiles. This is possible have either sold out Ajay Gupta, MD, blends, all types of because all our machines to new players or just Supreme Tex Mart Ltd. blended yarns.” are fully automized... closed shop.” “My estimate is that Capacities have increased, currently there must be so we have to look at the around 15% excess supply, global market. Selling which is not really too in the domestic market much, but does impact the is more difficult, as it is profitability; to counter our unorganized, but in exports dependency on exports you can sell 80 containers and global scenario, we in a day provided you have have to forward integrate a good agent... “March and add capacities at the 2016 onwards will be a fabric and garmenting landmark for us, as we will stages. This will not only be crossing the Rs. 500 create demand for yarn, but crore (US $ 83.33 million) also add value to the textile milestone.” chain at the front end.”

30 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com HUBSUPDATE

February 16-28 MAKERS OF SURAT ON CREATIVE HIGH Business growing for companies investing in Product Development

he city of Surat is known for two very creative businesses – textiles and laces. Over the years, the manufacturers and traders have upskilled Ttheir businesses with the result that today the textile segment is offering innovative designs and a wide product range that has moved beyond manmade processed fabrics to cotton and cotton blends. Not far behind are the city’s lace manufacturers, who have invested not only in the latest machines but also in design team, to offer an amazing range of laces. What’s interesting is that every manufacturer is being driven by his desire to be differentiated from his competitors, and since Surat is a small city, most of the players are aware of each other’s strengths and have respect for individual competencies. Team AO recently met some lace manufacturers in Surat and was fascinated by their beautiful creations…

Dalpat J. Kaswala of Manoj V. Jariwala, Paras Jariwal of Naveen Seksaria, Vasudev Kachiwala, King Laces Nilesh Ribbon Industries Jariwal Industries looking after the Schiffli Global Lace Collection “The Surat lace industry “While we are doing our own “With our production Division at Armo “We are creators and our has been nurtured on developments for the local capacities increasing, Synthetics expertise is to visualize how copying of designs either market, the requirements for we could not survive on “Our integrated strength the strengths of different from the movies or from the international market are reproducing what was enables us to offer different manufacturers can be leading designers! Till more standardized and the already running in the finishes, colours and put together to develop a about a decade ago, no play is mostly on colour.” market, so we decided to washes in laces all within new concept which is very effort was made to invest in create our own market and a stipulated time and exclusive, high-end and product development...” also charge a better price...” price framework.” difficult for others to copy.”

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June 1-15 MEERUT ALL SET TO TRANSFORM FROM SPORTS GOODS CAPITAL TO SPORTSWEAR HUB FAIRS REVIEWED BY TEAM APPAREL ONLINE IN 2015 rom sports gear to sportswear, Meerut – renowned as the sports Fgoods capital of India – is going the whole hog. To cater to the entire February 1-15 range of sportswear demands, for both domestic and international Review: Knit World and Knit Vision, Ludhiana 2015 markets, Meerut is now turning into a sportswear hub. And why not, with resources at disposal and a proven track record in sports goods Knit World: Enthusiastic visitation reflects reviving production, it’s the logical way forward for Meerut. business in Ludhiana as global market revives Knit Vision: New developments set to bring better support to companies in Ludhiana for doing more business

“We are making almost everything in March 16-31 sportswear section as per requirements,” Good pan-India visitation at GTE signals revival observed Lokesh Vats, MD of Vats of the garment manufacturing industry Sports adding, “We would be more than happy to start working with buying houses or buyers who can guide us in exports as it April 1-15 is something which is new for us.” Review F&A 2015 – Fabrics and accessories strive for differentiation to beat competition

Knit-tech show 2015: Tirupur technology suppliers happy with promising market

April 16-30 “With the new and advanced factory, we Spring Edition 2015 – Quality visitation at expect to increase our volume of exports and try working with the top brands,” says Intertextile Shanghai – China dominates fabric Manik Mahajan, CEO & Partner. He also section; India and Pakistan major players in feels that Meerut’s proximity to Delhi works cotton yarn to its advantage in ensuring easy access to raw materials and ease of communication May 1-15 with prospective buyers. ‘Diwali Mela’ in Vegas... but at what cost…? Is this the way to promote Indian exports on a global platform?

Review and Yarns 2015: From Fashion to Nature to Technical... Developments cover “We are exporting to China as the GST all aspects there is much higher on some products compared to India. We believe in offering more facilities to our workers like flexible June 1-15 timings, food and extra benefits during over- Review: Technotex 2015: Minister calls upon time which also helps in ensuring timely textile industry barons to hold hands and move delivery of orders,” maintained Shivinder forward in Technical Textiles Sharma, Director, Kasturi Lal & Sons. September 1-15 Review: Knit Show 2015 successful fair covering all stakeholders of the supply chain

, Vineet Mahajan, Owner of Vega Industries September 16-30 “Organized players are always on the radar of Fabric companies geared up for intimatewear the local administration pertaining to issues industry… Accessories and technology providers such as excise duty, PF, etc., whereas small keep pace or unorganized manufacturers don’t have to follow all these rules and regulations and they are posing a big challenge to the organized October 1-15 players by flooding the market with cheap and Review: Yarnex 2015 – Positive market conditions inferior products.” create hope for textile companies

October 16-31 4th edition of Vastra: Everything, but the buyers, Many sportswear manufacturers in Meerut are doing quality work like offering were fine! various sports uniforms, capris, T-shirts, lowers, track pants, etc. SFE Sportswear – exporting to USA, UK, Australia, Brazil and UAE, received an November 1-15 award from JCM International Inc., USA for its efforts in achieving the quality. Autumn 2015 edition of the India Handicrafts Ajay Puri, Director and Kanchan Puri, Design Head of the company lead and Gifts Fair (IHGF) - A tricky question all are their team with complete involvement which results in quality products – the asking… Will Europe pick up soon? strength of the company.

32 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online India 33 FASHIONBUSINESS

FASHION REWIND 2015 BUSINESS

A YEAR THAT SET FASHION TRENDS…

ppearing as the uncrowned king of all Astyles, the plunging ‘V’ is definitely the most With the year 2015 popular neckline trend for the summer. Plunging coming to an end, a necklines are low necklines, in either ‘V’, ‘U’ plethora of silhouette or square shapes, that reveal various amounts ideas and detail of cleavage, and some even variations make it a year June 1-15 which was not a ‘trend extending to the natural follower’ but a ‘trend NECKLINE OF waist line, as setter’. These details, THE YEAR... seen in the silhouettes and colour PLUNGING ‘V’! collections inspirations not only by Reem adorned the runways but Acra and also created space for Porche themselves in the retail Design. Although still daring and revealing segments... Starting plenty, the plunging neckline meets an entirely from the top, the sensual new level of sophistication this season, with plunging ‘V’ became the inspiration spanning in-between the utterly neckline of the year, the feminine and the sleek masculine tailoring. sleeves styles declared Martin Grant to be the most influential were the extra-long sleeves, and due to the n extraordinary sleeve trend on the runways prolonged 70s influence Awas the extra-long sleeve that finishes inches ‘the Bell’ became the past the wrist bone in line with the trends of fluid shape of the year. 2015 and oversized fit. It’s an on-trend silhouette for also witnessed an array knitwear and knit tops where these long of unconventional things sleeves are created with knitted fringes as seen in the S/S ’15 collection happening…, the back of Gareth Pugh. The was seen given more more mass attention than the front, suitable June 16-30 the colour blush became version of this SLEEVE OF THE the new white, and sleeve length fabric was flowing in the works from a YEAR… EXTRA- most asymmetric cuts. practical point of LONG SLEEVES! Taking a quick recap, view because of we present the top 10 its very tapered and Fashion Business Trends structured shape on which were the leaders in the forearm, making the sleeves stay put without their categories! falling over your hands and fingers. The extra Hood by Air length looks luxurious; visually elongates the

Gareth Pugh arms, creating proportions.

34 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com FASHIONBUSINESS

August 1-15 February 1-15 SHAPE OF THE YEAR… TROUSER OF THE YEAR THE BELL ! (WOMEN’S)...CULOTTES!

he fashion world is a ith skinny jeans Tcyclical amalgamation Wand slim-fits slowly of old styles in new becoming a thing of the interpretations; sometimes past, culottes in different that manifests in ways that lengths and varied guises we prefer the older version are entering the industry via than the new. Bell-bottoms, the runways to the streets. pants with legs that become Valentino’s Pre-Fall ’15 wider below the knee, collection conceded were an extremely popular adaptations of wide legged fashion during the 1960s calf length pants, whereas, and 1970s. The belled or BCBG Max Azria and Carven flared legs on bell-bottom presented formal looking pants were originally a wide hem cropped culottes functional design, worn by in heavy weight and those who worked on boats pinstriped fabrics. Culottes Valentino since the 17th century. were officially named The large legs allowed the the ‘must have’ pants for pants to be easily rolled spring but with exporters up out of the way of messy converting these styles in jobs and if a sailor fell winter suitable fabrics; this overboard, bell-bottom silhouette has become a fall pants could be pulled off collection staple. Rachel Comey over boots or shoes and the wide legs inflated with air Ellery for use as a life preserver. Rachel Zoe April 16-30 SILHOUETTE/CUT OF THE YEAR… ASYMMETRY! September 1-15 COLOUR OF THE YEAR… BLUSH! symmetrical hems by Anature are sexy as he blushing colours associated by the uneven Tshowering itself in a cut that flows along when greater way, particularly walking, highlighting taking over the resort 2016 the legs and the and Menswear S/S ’16 movement more. Though collections have marked a stereotypically pushed into point of growing feminism in the category of summer, today’s world. Spotted all over asymmetrical hems have the place and being dubbed become a dynamic fashion as the new white, Blush has which flows with ease the flexibility to look sweet across, summer and fall and to look sharp. Without seasons. This fashion has a doubt, one of the best been predicted to be in features of Versace in Resort full bloom in the next few is time which was her array of seasons. Asymmetrical smart suits in the same colour skirt hems are back on range. Be it fur coats in blush the runway and they look at Jason Wu or gentle flowing more glamorous than ever garments at Max Mara prove in the Fall 2015 fashion the capacity of the pastel season. Now, we’re pink to be soft and strong at Christian Dior Resort looking at the skirt with the very same time. Narciso longer sides and more Jason WU Rodriguez working on the legs shown, albeit in a Stella Mc Cartney date-worthy gowns, selected classier manner for the the perfect hue. most part. Maison Margiela

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October 16-31 July 1-15 THEME OF THE YEAR… TECHNIQUE OF THE YEAR...RUFFLES! UNDER THE SEA INFLUENCE!

ummer wardrobe he term ruffle is a makes all expect details S particular type of like the floral prints and T fabric manipulation that vibrant colours, but this creates a similar look to year’s S/S ’16 collections that of gathering but with brought us to the depth of less bulk. A wavy effect the ocean. Inspired by the is created by cutting a iridescent shades of the curved strip of fabric sea and the tropic colours and applying the inner of coral reefs, designers or shorter edge to the had their models grace garment. The depth of the the catwalk as mythical curve as well as the width sea creatures and urban of the fabric determines mermaids. Ocean-inspired the depth of the ruffle. clothing and accessories felt Ruffles have always been fresh in the form of flowing the essentials for evening silk gowns and coral-print gowns; but now they are Bluemarine swimsuits. Some wispy entering other domains, gowns were decked out in such as shirts, skirts and an array of exquisite marine blazers as well. Some embellishments, from ruffles are known to spice beaded sea horses to almost up the outfit while others cartoonishly sweet fishes. are known to give it a Pucci statement look.

October 1-15 Lanvin Rosie Assoulin DETAIL OF THE YEAR… BACK ADORNMENT! August 16-31 ith warmer weather MENSWEAR TREND OF THE YEAR... Won the horizon and the shedding of layers ‘ UTILE UNIFORMS’ ! that comes with the onset of spring is an increased orking on the concept of likelihood of showing Wcreating utility, practical more skin. A handful of functional styles became spring dresses, blouses core staples in numerous and tunics have caught collections. Busy with multi- eyes of the critics, and pocket jackets, boiler suits each share interesting and casual co-ordinations, back design details designers added newness in their trend listings. in through military or sporty Aesthetically speaking, accessories. Umit Benan, the back of a garment Kenzo and Fendi brought is often overlooked. back the uniforms from the But not this season! streets to the ramp doing Cape backs abound justice to the all-in-one suits. on dresses, jackets, Transforming the unflattering blouses, even parkas, one-piece with contemporary cut-outs on peplum tops visual appeal designers and straight fit dresses, were seen creating fighter panelling on dresses and jet pilot uniforms, mechanics open backs in gowns and race car driver overalls. are few of the numerous Almost all of the versions seen examples witnessed on were cinched at the waist with the runways. elastic bands and the other Louis Vuitton Kenzo common element was that they were printed. Narciso Rodriguez Rosie Assoulin

36 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com Apparel Online India 37 VALUEADDITION

V A L U E REWIND 2015 ADDITION

THE BEST OF ‘ VALUE ADDITION’ TECHNIQUES OF 2015

3 MOST-POPULAR SURFACE ADORNMENTS OF THE YEAR...

Pleats Love for and tucks… Glitter…

February 1-15 June 16-30

Ohne Titel Veronique Branquinho Zac Posen Naeem Khan BCBG Max Azria Mary Katrantzou

e it a high waist midi silk skirt, floor length e it Stella McCartney's sporty silhouette metallic dress Bdress or just a subtle accent on the sides to an Btoughened up with black ankle boots or full-on glitz ensemble, finely placed accordion pleats, bias pleats and ensemble at Dolce & Gabbana, the upheaval of the knife pleats add a touch of graceful fluidity and movement shiny surface was clearly visible in the Fall and S/S ’15 into the garments. With our winter wardrobes welcoming collections. Moschino showcased acid wash denim mixed pleated skirts, culottes and shirts, garment manufacturers with the flashiness of a gold lame fabric creating a gold and exporters are also picking up refined elements from and denim patchwork overalls, whereas, Gucci, touched the runways to incorporate them into their collections. The down the seventies with pleated skirts in lame, lurex Pre-Fall ’15 collections witnessed multiple interpretations and leather. Giles presented a black and white lace and of the classic pleat technique in amalgamation with arty leather made tough-chic bedfellows in strictly tailored twists, folds and curves among other ocular techniques. jackets, skirts and ruffled lacy blouses.

38 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com VALUEADDITION

3 MOST-TALKED-ABOUT FABRICS OF THE YEAR...

August 1-15 Mix-media nother sophisticated and printing Afeminine way is use of lace; special nowadays laces of all kinds effects… are available which make the creation of perforated surface October 1-15 even easier. Laces, owing to their sheer glance, have moved away from being used as hemming and patches. They are now Lace... being used as base material for trench coats and leggings. Be it knotted laces used as sleeves and back yoke of a top or bobbin lace used to create an entire blouse panel, execution becomes a very interesting part when creativity gets hold of a Gucci perfect medium.

esigners continue to pillage October 16-31 Dthe ’80s archive in order to inform today’s trends. Loewe and Maison Martin Margiela showed tailored separates in a cellophane type fabric. The material looked exactly like the cellophane stick tape, shiny, plastic and clear. To achieve a similar effect, fabrics can be used, Cellophane... which at a cheaper rate will give out a more mass accepted style. While organza has traditionally been used on fancy ball gowns; lately we’ve seen it acting as a see-through detail on modern designs and minimalistic pieces. Fabrics with an overlap between screen printing and digital Fast fashion stores like Vero Moda printing effects and Zara are seen to be staging Maison Martin Margiela home for dresses with a sheer reating special effects on organza skirts and capes. Cfabrics at nominal prices has led to combination of two March 1-15 distinctive printing processes. For ur had been a constant in fashion instance, digital and screen printing Fevery year, forever, as for some services, owing to their distinctive people it signified the true essence of application areas tend to target luxury, but as the users and makers different market niches. But when got enlightened with environmentally used together on a fabric, a digital harmful process of fur production print can be overlapped with a foil or which involved animal cruelty, fur foam print to give a distinct special was no longer a part of designer effect. Digital printing regarded as Fur collections. In the quest of not killing expensive and unique in nature, imitations... a living creature to adorn an outfit aims mostly at boutique buyers and with fur, a wide range of on-trend designers, whereas screen printing faux fur has hit the market right on on the other hand is the pet printing spot. Manipulating and involving process for exporters and job- techniques of fibre fusing, flocking workers with bulk orders. Therefore, and knitting, service providers have if used together the printing effect been able to create a similar fur like will be able to provide a higher effect to feed the growing demands aesthetic effect at a lower price. Marni of fur users.

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Windowpane/ Grid pattern…

April 1-15

4 COLLECTION STAPLE PRINTS AND PATTERNS OF THE YEAR…

Dior Tory Burch Lanvin

Bold Marbling graphic madness… prints…

August 16-31 December 16-31

Tsumori Chisato Crinkled Cracked Crimped Christian Dior Jonathan Saunders

hether they are bold and crazy or subtle and f prints make you nervous then this winter you’re Wsophisticated, marbling in variation of patterns are Iprobably filled with high anxiety, as the boldest, brightest being created through rotary and digital printing. These prints have trickled down from the catwalk to the retail swirly designs have been making a strong statement since segment and street fashion. Bold prints create perfect the runways of S/S ’14, with designers such as Phillip Lim, illusions, making the eye follow the print and create fluidity Rachel Comey and Peter Som using it on items such as in the entire design. Vivid, graphic patterns swirled across shirts, sweaters and dresses. Marbling is the process of the collections at Dior, Pucci, Loewe and more, sending floating fabric paints on the surface of a thick cellulose exporters into a daze with all those optical illusions and solution (called ‘size’), or oil on water. The floating paints are comical prints. When we say bold prints, we mean prints swirled into patterns, and this is how the pattern is captured. inspired from Comic Book Layouts or Super Hero Imagery.

40 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com VALUEADDITION

yriads of these windowpane mimics were Mseen on the runways of Pre-Fall ’15. Giving the designers an additional graphic appeal to work with, grid patterns were seen in distinct ways in the collections of multiple designers making it clear that grid prints are the preferred checks for Fall. Derek Lam zeroed in on the spartan beauty of the work of painter Kazimir Malevich, whereas on Dior’s Tokyo runway, Raf Simons sent out cozy brushed day dresses and coats in the square line pattern. Proenza Schouler doubled down on the idea, layering a spruce coat and turtleneck, taking the trend of matching sets a notch higher. The trend was also seen hinting towards a shift from closely placed checks to more sparsely distributed ones. These checks also transformed the classic trouser suits into striking digital grids – offering appeal for the contemporary market.

Printed tie & dye…

January 16-31

Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Prabal Gurung

ie & dye is a playful way of incorporating print in your look, Tespecially in the winter months. As Indian export industry does not invest in development of Fall collections, colourful and on-trend tie & dye prints on silhouettes like leggings, trousers and scarves can help strengthen the client base. The effect of marbling amongst the others is manipulated the most by designers. McQ Alexander McQueen in their Pre-Fall 2015 collection, created a blue and white marbling effect with a cracking look whereas Alexander Wang in his Resort 2015 collection presented a plethora of spatter inspired marble prints on bomber jackets, bra-lets and skirts.

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SUSTAINABILITY REWIND 2015

INDUSTRY’ S INITIATIVES IN SUSTAINABILITY ON THE INCREASE

May 1-15 October 16-31 ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES INTERNATIONAL It’s not only about the money or business, TRADING COMPANY but it’s also for Mother Earth First ever GREEN sweater factory of India

ore than a decade ago, when buyers started pushing for social compliance, the Mface of factories in India changed, albeit initially very reluctantly. As results of nternational Trading Company (ITC), the compliance initiatives started to reflect in better business and also happier working Ibrainchild of the young, enthusiastic and environment, exporters became more involved…, perhaps this is the reason that globally trained ZahirSAIT, is probably going today many of the exporters are willingly going for measures to be environment- to be the first ever green sweater factory in friendly, even as buyers still debate on what should be made mandatory… India. An apparel professional, with strong technical knowledge, ZahirSAIT is investing Ajit Lakra, MD of Rs. 20 crore (US $ 3.3 million) in this new green facility which will have solar energy Superfine Knitters, of 300 KW on its roof to take care of the Ludhiana – “A year entire air-conditioning system, ZLD facility, ago when we water harvesting, and vertical garden on the installed our solar walls with complete LED lights, etc. What is unit, we got 30 per even more interesting is his smart investment system which will make all his proposed cent subsidy and projects, including solar panel installations 100 per cent tax commercially viable. rebate, so our actual investment was Pranab Mahajan, ZahirSAIT, Rs. 20 lakh, but can I Director Mahajan MD, ITC – honestly say that the Overseas, Panipat “Reducing cost thought that really – “One should is the biggest pushed me to take not think of every motivation this initiative was my move taken in for green own conscious which business from the factory, and questioned me on money or buyer’s adapting to what am I doing for pressure point of solar energy is the environment, the view. Big natural Deepak Dumra, a major cost- society – nothing. But disasters over the Partner, Eveline cutting initiative. We are looking at now I feel proud as last decade have International, investment for next 25 years and solar using less electricity struck various parts Ludhiana – “The will contribute 30 per cent of the total of the state, I am of our country and lush greenery has energy consumption of power, the helping others to they can happen created such an saving will be immense. Though on get more. Subsidy anywhere... growing atmosphere in our ground reality a green factory would or rebate matters, awareness should factory that people not be able to get me an extra penny but not more than motivate others also love to work here from the buyer, but it will help to get your conscious.” to willingly make the and has increased some extra orders as factory recall will changeover.” efficiency also.” be on top of the mind.”

42 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com SUSTAINABILITY

July 1-15 February 16-28 GO GO RETREAT ESPRIT EMERGES AMONGST A perfect blend of LEADERS IN SUSTAINABILITY employee engagement, Emphasizes on Environment and People fun ‘n frolic and team building nternational fashion brand Esprit, which is mindful Iof both people and nature, is increasingly upping its sustainability quotient by undertaking new environmental oday, the culture at garment and social responsibilities while creating high-quality manufacturing companies T fashion, and also making sure that its production has come far beyond the realms Lalita Goenka, Director, processes respect the environment and the people of getting work done. The buzz Go Go International involved. In 2015, the company partnered with animal word now is ‘engagement’; it’s – “It was a great rights organization, People for Ethical Treatment of all about engaging your people Animals (PETA), to introduce PETA approved vegan to feel an integral part of your pleasure to see even hang-tags to mark Esprit’s vegan shoe and apparel style. organization. The concept is the usual serious faces already in practice at bigger laugh out loud during export houses and is now the stand-up comedy; Lary Brown, Vice creeping into even the smaller also the newly formed President – Head companies. One company equations and friendly of Global Sourcing which has been amongst the early implementers of employee interactions among Compliance, Esprit – engagement is Bangalore based different departments “Customer feedback Go Go International. Their was an indication of is very important to annual retreat for their staff is not the growing comfort us since it allows us just about having a good time, level among various to understand what is but also helps a lot in stimulating creative thought, rediscovering employees and a really important to the hidden passion, improving stronger Go Go team.” people who wear our communication skills and above clothes… for example we recently developed a all team building. hang-tag for our vegan shoes in cooperation with PETA, the animal welfare organization.”

March 1-15 April 16-30 BIRLA CELLULOSE ANANDI ENTERPRISES A leader in sustainability through Moving ahead with collaboration with brands, knowledge- organic, BCI and sharing and efficient R&D recycle yarns

he growing consciousness of consumers, brands, rom an employee to an Tfactories and industry is leading to revolution of Femployer, from a yarn agent sustainable change and everyone is doing their bit in to a leading sustainable yarn this endeavour. Amongst them is Birla Cellulose, part of manufacturer; it is a remarkable RS Balagurunathan, the Aditya Birla Group, a global leader in man-made growth story of determination Founder & Director of cellulosic fibre industry which is continuously focusing on to do something different… Anandi Enterprises – building sustainable leadership by creating value through RS Balagurunathan, a textile innovations in products and processes, excellence in quality, technologist who is the Founder “Currently, we produce services and people development, and a better environment & Director of Anandi Enterprises a yarn which is made for the future. is doing commendable work in from 60 per cent Manohar Samuel, sustainable yarns be it organic, recycled cotton and BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) or President (Marketing and 40 per cent recycled recycled yarns. Working as a Business Development), poly (pet bottles). This is supply chain partner of Levi’s and Birla Cellulose – “The supplying yarns to C&A, M&S etc., a 100 per cent recycled concept of Life Cycle Anandi Enterprises, Tirupur is product and is used as Assessment (LCA) has doing an annual business worth natural yarn dyed for US $ 6 million (Rs. 35 crore) while brought sustainability to knitted garments that also helping thousands of farmers a different collaborative one can see at stores to earn a decent livelihood and level, where life of serving mother earth. of Levi’s. This unique the entire product yarn is eco-friendly and is evaluated. Sustainability is the lifecycle we are proud to be one itself. Apart from brands individually doing of the partners in a something, they have also started collaborating larger effort to save the to do things better for the future generation.” earth’s environment.”

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September 1-15 ARMSTRONG KNITTING MILLS CHALLENGES OF SUSTAINABILITY SYNONYMOUS TO SUSTAINABILITY Focusing on innovative products

ime and again, Tirupur-based Armstrong Knitting TMills has been in the news for its various sustainable November 16-30 initiatives and collaborations. Amongst the most ethical SOCIAL SUSTAINABILITY manufacturers in India, the company is continuously “Do You Really Treat Workforce As An Asset?” strengthening its sustainability commitments and is unfazed by the many challenges that assail the concept over time. uman Resources our strength, my team is my biggest asset, and Hworkforce is our base...” Most of us have heard similar kinds of words from many in the industry, over the last few years..., but is it the truth? In some cases yes, but these are taken as exceptional cases and do not reflect ground realities of the situation in most of the apparel manufacturing companies. HR experts are vocal on the importance to consider human resources as assets and treat them accordingly... The only satisfying development in the current scenario, according to experts, is that despite and within the ‘Lala Culture’, things are changing and increasingly changing, and HR Managers are aware of what they have to do.

E. Palanisamy, Group P. Vivek Anand, MD, Aisshvarya S. Shah, CEO & Chief Chairman, Armstrong Armstrong Knitting Trainer, Work Senses, Chennai – Knitting Mills – “We Mills – “When we “There is very urgent and critical have spoiled the started organic, need to professionalise HR in earth through there was not much this industry. It is not only about chemicals... If we awareness in the recruiting the best HR person, go on like this, then market, but slowly but also important is whether where would the next we increased our our HR Department is moving generation cultivate? focus and now we to the next level of people- At Armstrong, we are are trying to be a management.” installing solar panels truly sustainable for spinning and company both Major General (Retd.) NK Dhir, windmills for other in our products Director of Alphabet Teletec, Noida energy needs.” and processes.” – “Stop telling this lie. Human resources is not being treated like an asset... Our companies are just February 1-15 talking about it; they don’t take PRATIBHA SYNTEX any action to make it true. Are Moving from ‘responsible’ textiles to they able to touch the employee’s ‘responsible and responsive’ textiles heart...; there is only talk about EQ (Emotional Quotient).” ndisputedly, the torch-bearer of the sustainability Umovement in textile and garment industry in India, Shreyaskar Chaudhary, MD, Pratibha Syntex is very Arun Batish, Lecoanet Hemant proactive both within his company and at national/ Sagar, Gurgaon – “HR persons international forums, not only to understand what new need to ask themselves if they is happening, but also representing India’s position on are justifying completely the various topics including challenges in organic cotton. However, he candidly admits that there is more talk than concept of exit interviews, actual action and it is time for the industry thought leaders especially in the apparel to chalk out a long-term roadmap to grab opportunities in industry, which has high the trillion-dollar worth ‘responsible’ marketplace, which he turnover ratio.” firmly believes India as a nation has the potential to utilize.

Shreyaskar Chaudhary, MD, Pratibha Syntex – Madan Kukreja, MD, Super Fashion, Delhi – “Growth and “Earlier I was more vocal about what importance of the HR depends on the size of the company, companies need to do, but now I want to work since majority of the garment companies are having only and create a role model to show that it can around 100 to 500 people to manage; the owner himself work successfully, but has to be more than a takes care of his people, so where is the need of an HR at lip-service”. such a top level.”

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September 16-30 C P Gupta, Maintenance JL Sehgal, MD, Kiran Associates Rooftop solar power systems in Haryana... Engineer of Richa Global – “We have installed solar Deadline over, result nowhere Exports – “What is our panels for 15 KW capacity responsibility if the factories which is fully operational are on rent; there is no now and generating almost n 3rd September 2014, the Haryana Government issued 2,000 units per months. I don’t Oa notification for the installation of rooftop solar power precision in the notification systems for commercial buildings having load connection of 50 as to whether the owner agree that it is too costly when Kilo Watt (KW) to 1 Mega Watt, and making it mandatory for such of a building or the tenant comparing it to the benefits factories to produce solar power of 5 per cent of total requirement (factory owner) will invest we get. Installation cost for or 10 KW, whichever is higher. The deadline for installation was per KW is Rs. 75-80 thousand September 2015; however, as of now very few factories have for this system; secondly, come forward for implementation and most of them are going to there are only two companies and there is not much miss the deadline. The garment and textile industry of Haryana, in India manufacturing panels maintenance expenditure be it the garment export hub of Gurgaon or Faridabad, home and we can’t rely on imported too. As far as benefits are furnishing hub of Panipat or other emerging industrial areas like panels from China. Despite concerned, there is 80 per Sonepat, have also not warmed up to the idea, despite penalties... that we are working on this cent accelerated depreciation project and very soon we may in first year from income tax have it in the factories which which is a good support. are on our land.” Secondly, with the system which is going to start very soon, one can sell electricity Anuj Bhatia, CEO, Chelsea Mills to the Government on off – “We have almost 500 solar days like Sundays, when panels and are using them most of the factories don’t for our energy needs from the work but power is generated, last 6-7 years. Our laundry which means the factory is section is completely running earning on Sunday without on solar power.” doing anything.”

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November 16-30 SKILL DEVELOPMENT ECONOMIC SUSTAINABILITY… Industry requires a fresh look on Finance June 16-30 & Cost Management Sustaining livelihood through ISDS: Modelama Skills focuses on ustainability is all about ‘people’, ‘planet’ and ‘profit’, all of which are now community mobilisation S‘scarce’. While, industry makes effort to take steps for ‘people’, ‘planet’ and ‘profit’ is something which is shrinking by the day with no one having a clear abour-intensive industries like textiles require vision how to perk up the same for sustainable existence. Limiting overheads, Lnot only skilled workforce but also vocational cost control efforts and sharp costing are already being used as tools to improve training for knowledge building. Under the margins, but are the export houses doing enough on these fronts, is there still Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS), some scope for improvement, are some questions that need to be asked. Modelama Skills Pvt., Ltd. is partnering with the Government for many Central and State Skill development schemes, being presently run in centres across India.

“For initiatives such as skill development, a strong inclusive team management is required where people need to believe in what they are doing. I can make Manish Sachar, Head-Systems Anoop Dhanda, ED – Finance, any process I want to, but if my & Finance at Orient Fashion Orient Craft –“At our company trainers, mobilizers and people on Exports –“We were of the we also measure the unit cost the ground don’t believe in what opinion that we are very embedded to the product they do, then they will never be good in fabric usage, and whether the product is motivated to do it...” – Vineet Lall, despite that we were able really capable to cover the Director, Modelama Skills Pvt. Ltd. to reduce 40 per cent of cost... So we structure are the fabric wastage just by balance sheet and our needs looking at our operations in a to decide whether to expand October 1-15 different perspective.” or not to expand.” AMH SSC promotes skill development; larger vision of promoting the industry

June 16-30 mong one of the basic and ongoing NO LESSONS LEARNT FROM TIRUPUR PROCESS Aproblems facing the apparel industry are HOUSES’ CLOSURE FIASCO… the diminishing skills among workers and few Blatant violations continue training options to revive it. But all this is going to change, as the Government has constituted the Prime Minister’s National Council on Skill here is disturbing news about violations, to say the least. Not only will this Development for coordinated action for skill Taffect business, but it only goes to reinforce what environmental experts development, both in the public and private keep repeating... “Industry has total disregard for pollution norms.” At many sector. Currently, with 31 skill councils for each locations CETPs do not exist, even if installed, they are not working; companies sector, Apparel-Made-ups-Furnishings Sector are not following norms despite having resources..., all of which proves that the Skill Council (AMH SSC) is looking towards a processing industry has not learnt anything from the crisis of Tirupur which was skilled workforce through this new initiative. also related to water pollution. Stakeholders are vocal in blaming each other and no one is ready to take the responsibility... “Our Prime Minister believes in Skill India Rajendra Jeengar, General Secretary, The Sanganeer Kapada Rangai and has a very and Chappai Association – “Shifting was never a solution from any motivating influence. perspective, so we moved to the Supreme Court and in 2009 So involving the MPs the shifting orders were cancelled. Immediately we asked land to promote the scheme for CETP but we got land in 2013. Earlier we were being told is an intelligent option as to only install a CETP, later we were asked for zero discharge they will feel proud and will also be system. Now we have started bid for CETP which is supposed able to show to their constituency to be operational in mid 2017, and will only be possible if we the progress even if 1,000 people get the full support of the Government. More than 50 units get trained in 5 years in their have their individual ETPs despite that they have not been given respective areas...” – Dr. A. Sakthivel, permission to function as this area is not for commercial use.” Chairman, AMH SSC

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TEX-FILE REWIND 2015 ROUND-UP

UPDATE ON TEXTILE PLAYERS…

November 16-30 February 1-15 Mercury Fabrics ventures KG Fabriks taking the into printed knits; introduces sustainable route for growth: designs never done in India zero discharge, zero waste company in true sense n integrated manufacturer of high- Aquality knitted fabrics, Mercury eading from the front, Srihari Fabrics, has recently ventured into printed LBalakrishnan, President, KG Fabriks knitted fabrics with a fully automated Ltd., has set out a clear roadmap for setup, claiming to be the only one to the future wherein there is increased do such high-end fine and complicated focus on ‘sustainable growth’ not prints in India. Although the company only through better quality and wider is well-known for its quality knitted product range, but also ensuring that the fabric that makes it a favourite to many July 16-31 company adheres to sustainable practices exporters and international brands, Morarjee Textiles constructing encompassing both environment and this new niche value-add is pushing the zero-waste textile social issues. The company is aiming company’s upward growth and setting it to be amongst the most sustainable apart from its competitors and attracting factory with biomimetic design textile companies in India and provide attention from many international brands. ‘sustainable fashion’ in true sense. xploration Architecture, a UK based Ecompany that specializes in biomimicry, has completed its design for a sustainable factory in Nagpur, India, that aims to address both the human and environmental challenges facing the country’s textile industry. The innovative building should radically reduce energy and water usage, and the design team’s goal is to create a zero-waste factory that is also an inspiring environment in which to work. Exploration’s client – Morarjee Textiles, which works almost exclusively in high-quality cotton for overseas markets with a significant proportion of the output being either Tajinder Sachdeva, MD, Mercury printed or dyed – is a pioneer of sustainable Srihari Balakrishnan, President, Fabrics – “The range and quality thinking and challenged the architects to KG Fabriks Ltd. – “We have already of products that we have, no one change the paradigm for factories in India. started the process to be really else has in the Indian market. I can Harsh Piramal, Executive Vice sustainable and alongside we confidently claim that nowhere Chairman, Morarjee Textiles – will continue to grow in a very in India can any other knitted “The structure should be designed organic manner, and maybe in manufacturer print this type of and engineered to use the least 3-4 years we’ll set up a second fabrics; we have worked hard to material possible and should denim line, and strengthen our yarn perfect the outcome and the clients provide a world-class environment business substantially. who have seen the results have for the 600-odd people who been astonished.” will work at the factory... and be a viable, sustainable and profitable business.”

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HUB REPORT…

May 16-31 February 16-28 Trinity Tex Trade bats for a : Moving from greige to processed fabric and export strong and mature textile industry ndia’s biggest cotton (greige) fabric producing hub Ichalkaranji in district, Maharashtra, Iis witnessing a turnover of more than US $ 170 million per day. The city has grown significantly during the last decade or so, and its growth momentum is set to continue in the coming years. hile garment manufacturers It is moving towards processed fabrics, there is an increased focus on export, and garmenting is always talk about how W also growing slowly but steadily. While is the core business here, companies are installing difficult it is to work with imported machines, wider width technology, and undertaking fabric processing and marketing fabrics, mostly because of activities as well. With the hub witnessing multi-directional growth, there is a lot of enthusiasm procedural issues, fabric importers amongst companies. However, the fear of higher power tariffs being levied looms large over the rue that selling imported fabric in industry, and is forcing many companies to consider shifting their base to nearby , which India to both domestic brands and is offering more and better facilities. This is posing a big challenge for Ichalkaranji. garment exporters is becoming difficult by the day. With various challenges such as pricing, payments and an unorganized structure hindering free flow of fabrics, the country is losing out on fabric categories that are better produced elsewhere. Mumbai- based Trinity Tex Trade, importers of menswear fabrics have over the last two years restricted their focus on India, as it is a small market for the company.

Prakash Awade, Deendayal B. Pradeep Kumar Sanjay Jain, former Textile Jhanwar, MD, Birla, MD, Birla Director, Minister, Ram Krishna Udyog Samuh Arihant Group Maharashtra (Jhanwar) Group Shrinidhi Exports – “We are not – “Along – “Our priority – “The hub is interested in with growing is forging moving towards dyeing. In fact, footprints in a stronger finished the strength fabric export, relationship products as of most of the our target is with buying we are getting companies to develop houses and a direct here is making this city as a international demand for greige like garmenting brands as they dyed fabrics. us, and can hub as we recommend us Garment offer a variety have the fabric for our fabric, manufacturers of fabrics be (even though which is being at the lower- it shirting, produced used in making and mid-level, , , the garments who were or denim. We Dinesh V. Bahirwani, Director, largely by for M&S, Polo earlier dealing have exported Trinity Tex Trade – “I feel small-scale Ralph Lauren, with merchant greige to Russia design-wise India is better industries). Fifth Avenue, exporters, are and we want than China and that is why Garmenting has TSS, Walmart now coming to expand the they score better in women’s grown well here and other directly to same product wear, but since China gives in recent years, respected weavers like category rather better quality and finish, and we want brands, besides us. This trend than getting the country will give India a that the fabric- exporting also started two into processed tough competition even in to-garment through buying years ago and fabric.” that category if the norms process should offices.” is increasing.” and the duty structure of be completed India changes.” here.”

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ISSUES IN DISCUSSION….

March 16-31 Bullish Textile Policy attracting new investments & expansions

ith industry-friendly Government sitting in the centre and voicing the ‘Make in India’ slogan, along with announcement of a new textile Wpolicy with an ambitious target of achieving 20 per cent share of the global textile trade and helping the domestic industry attain a size of US $ 650 billion by 2024-25 by focusing on investments, skill development and labour law reforms, players in the textile industry are more positive than they have been for years. The industry is expected to attract investment of about US $ 120 billion by 2024-25 and create about 35 million additional jobs in the process. Exports are also expected to rise from the current US $ 39 billion to US $ 300 billion during this period. With the textile industry growth, the textile machinery industry size is also expected to double to US $ 7,167.8 million (Rs. 45,000 crore) in the next seven years from the present US $ 3,504.3 million (Rs. 22,000 crore) on the back of new projects and emphasis on setting up textile parks.

Rajiv Dayal, Managing Director & Chief Executive Officer, Mafatlal Industries – “We plan to further raise our denim capacities to 30 million metres by 2015 at the Navsari unit.”

Abhishek Gupta, Managing Director, Trident Ltd. – “The bed linen and spinning units are expected to be operational by September 2015 and will Deepak Chiripal, CEO, Nandan Denim Ltd. contribute nearly Rs. 1,200 crore (US $ 191.60 – Chiripal Group – “We aim to build Nandan million) to the company’s annual revenue.” Denim into an organization capable of competing with the world’s best – in terms of product, people, process and technology. We set high standards for ourselves and for the operations and decided that profitability and growth must result from efficient exploration of challenging opportunities.”

Vijay Puniyani, Sr. Vice President (Marketing), Vardhman Textiles Ltd. – “Over the last 3-4 years, we have repositioned our business model, Paritosh Agarwal, Managing Director, especially for the domestic market, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills – “We have shifting our production capacities from a network of associates or the US fundamental yarns to value-added yarns. market and we have opened a market Today our sales of value-added yarns consultancy for Europe.” accounts for close to 50% of total sales, while earlier it was ranging between 25- 30%.”

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March 1-15 Improving market supported by new developments from fabric manufacturers

ith the market picking up and offering fresh opportunities, both domestic players and direct exporters are feeling positive about growth. From top Wfabric players like Vardhman and Arvind, and strong regional players like Bindal Exports and Madhusudan Group in Surat to smaller companies across India producing 8 to 10 lakh metres of fabric per month, the mood is upbeat. Those engaged in the cotton business are no longer worried about the glut but are taking it as a temporary phase, while those specializing in polyester are confident that demand will increase. This sentiment is driving many textile manufacturers to expand capacities and invest in product development to attract more buyers. Apparel Online talked to some big and medium level players in the fabric segment to get a pulse of the market dynamics...

Pratik Tulsian, Director, PR Creation Saurabh Kukreja, Senior Manager (Gomti Group of – Marketing, Arvind – “The US Textiles), Surat – market is good and Europe is “Demand for 100 per picking up; in fact, every product, cent polyester fabric be it denim, shirting weight, has almost doubled in piece-dyed, non-piece- dyed, etc., recent times, as buyers are all doing well.” who were earlier asking for small quantities are Subrata Sanyal, GM (Marketing), now giving good quantity Maral overseas – “We were Anupam Arya, ED, Bindal Silk Mills/Bindal Exports, orders. Companies which willing to reduce our costs which Surat – “We are diversifying into viscose prints and will were producing 100 per became possible with more start production within the next two months, as many of cent cotton or viscose production capacity. Now we are our buyers are asking for and viscose. We have only, have now expanded more competitive and since the the capability to produce flexible width sizes ranging into polyester in order market is showing positive signs, from 44 inches to 58 inches, flexible repeat sizes from to meet their buyers’ we are expecting good orders.” 68 cm to 2 metres, and repeat scarves sizes.” demand for the fabric.

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APPAREL RESOURCES ISSUES IN DISCUSSION…. INITIATIVE 2015…

March 1-15 Good response to Workshop initiative by Apparel Resources March 1-15 Recycled yarns... The game changer

s the business of fashion is getting more sensitive towards sustainable clothing, the Ademand for recycled yarns is escalating. Numerous conventional yarn manufacturers have started making yarns out of waste products like PET bottles and ‘textile-to-textile' waste such as used fabrics, garments and home furnishings. Many products such as clothing, soft toys, bed linen, towels, gloves and rugs, to mention a few are being manufactured with such yarns. Apparel Online talked to a few recycled yarn manufacturers to understand what kind of Over the last few years, there has been recycled yarns they are producing and how this market is moving... an increased thrust on training and skill development, but very little effort has gone into looking at training needs of senior and middle management. Further, whatever workshops or training sessions Shreyaskar Chaudhary, are organized, they are either technology Managing Director, provider-driven or by consultants who are promoting their services. Both these Pratibha Syntex – “The avenues, while providing knowledge, market is steadily picking leave much to be desired. Backed by the up with keen interest industry need and demand for workshops shown largely by the that are more holistic and interactive, international market. Now Apparel Resources, India has initiated a series of training sessions on varied we are also seeing some industry-focused topics…; in 2015 AR movement in the domestic conducted 8 workshops, two of which demand asking for were held in Bangladesh. recycled yarns translating into demand.” October 16-31 FIRST EVER GOLF DAY Gets huge response in Dhaka… India the next venue Makrand Kulkarni, General Manager-Sales & Marketing, Polygenta Technologies Ltd. – “Interestingly, customers are now increasingly Srihari Balakrishnan, President, demanding 100% recycled KG Fabriks – “When 100 kg yarns made from 100% Apparel Resources in its commitment to provide an engaging platform for of cotton comes to my factory, post- consumer PET waste rather than just industrial interaction and networking has made 100 kg is used, nothing is a foray into sports with the ‘Golf Day’ treated as waste.” factory waste or a blend initiative. The first event held in Dhaka this of recycled inputs.” year attracted many industry golfers and some celebrity golfers too! Buoyant after the positive and enthusiastic response, the V. P. Goenka, CMD, Pashupati Polytex – “We have been regularly supplying initiative is all set to debut in India soon. our fibres to various leading textile mills who are using the same for The brainchild of Mayank Mohindra, Director, Apparel Resources and a producing different types of yarns (100% polyester yarn, cotton blended passionate golfer himself, ‘Golf Day’ has yarn, polyester-acrylic blended yarn, polyester viscose blended yarn, etc.) been designed for the industry where as well as cushioning products (carpets, sofa, dolls, toys, mattreses, furniture, stalwarts can enjoy a day of interaction and toys, dolls, etc.).” networking while celebrating the corporate game of golf, away from the shop floor and meeting rooms, among the greens of the golf course. Apparel Online A&E Golf Day saw many popular buyers, exporters and Ramesh Verma, President, HEMA – “More than 30 units produce 500 tonnes accessory/technology providers from the of recycled yarns a day out of cotton pants and T-shirts and then that yarn is Bangladesh RMG sector coming together for the first time ever in such a unique fun- reused to make mats.” filled networking event.

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ISSUES IN DISCUSSION….

June 16-30 November 1-15 Indian mills have potential for Industry expectations from new Government larger share in Bangladeshi market high…Textiles Ministry proactive in approach... results awaited

argeting to touch the US $ 50 billion mark in its garment exports by T2021, Bangladesh cannot be underestimated as a potential market for s the textile industry at the cusp of change... This is the question Indian textile mills though the country’s dependence on imported fabric is Ithat everyone in the industry is asking. And what triggered the currently decreasing. The very fact that the country is looking at doubling thought..., our very upfront Prime Minister of course! its garment exports in just a span of six years, while the growth in the textile No one can deny that there is an air of vibrancy in the country segment during the same period will be much slower, will create a gap for and no sector is left untouched. Since the new Government took imported fabrics. The critical question is..., are Indian mills geared up to over in May, the people of this country are continuously amazed grab the opportunity? at how changes are coming in, some very visible, while others just starting points for change. For the textile industry, the very fact that the new Government initiated the process of reviewing the National Textile Policy, 2000 in an effort to facilitate the Indian textile industry to gain and sustain a global position in the manufacture and export of clothing, keeping in view the various changes both on the domestic and international fronts, sends a signal of positivity...

Rahul Mehta, President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India – “For the first time, the Government has recognized the importance of the domestic sector, and that apparel is the apex sector which must be encouraged.”

Anil Kumar, Mayank Jain, Kulbir Kundu, Prem Malik, Chairman, CITI – “CITI, along with Country Head, Vice President, Country Manager other stake holders in the textile industry, Arvind Ltd. – Malwa Industries of Vardhman have studied the draft report in detail and Bangladesh – – “Bangladesh – Bangladesh made recommendations for improving it to “Initially it was gains importance – “The qualities meet the needs of the industry. I am hopeful difficult for us to for us since a running in this that the expert committee would look into market our fabric lot of our US/ market till now these pertinent recommendations and finalize as a large portion EU customers are mostly the report soon, after incorporating the of denim, mostly nominate our regular qualities necessary changes.” basic, was being fabrics, making in cotton which sourced from it compulsory for are not seasonal, DL Sharma, Managing Director, Vardhman Yarns China. Today hosts manufacturers and which & Threads Ltd. – “First of all, the draft textile of international producing can be used policy shows the ambitious attitude towards the brands are garments for throughout the growth of Indian textile industry and increase sourcing denim these buyers to year irrespective the size of textile industry to its potential. The products from source from us. of the changing necessary reforms required to achieve the Bangladesh; Apart from this, trends. But slowly desired objectives are well identified.” things have many garment the market is changed factories use graduating to drastically and our fabrics by more fashionable Sanjay Jain, MD, TT Ltd. – while earlier it choice also. We items as the “The intent is there for sure. was just basics are exporting margins are However, we still wait to and volumes from close to 2 million becoming lesser see how this gets translated Bangladesh, now yards every year in basics and into action. Further, one buyers are asking to Bangladesh fetching a good area where the industry is for fashion and and the way price in volumes.” disappointed is the speed value addition in the country is of clearing incentives under denim, which has growing, we see TUF and also following up created demand a lot of potential with Commerce Ministry for for our fabric.” in this market.” various export incentives.”

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IMPORTANT PLATFORMS….

October 16-31 December 1-15 Textile Exchange Indian Cotton Conference 2015 Sustainability Conference 2015, Are you experimenting, adding value, ask industry experts Mumbai: Huge participation emphasizes on the growing rganized by the Indian Cotton Association Limited (ICAL) the “Indian Cotton Conference importance of ethical textile O2015” held in Gurgaon recently discussed various aspects focusing on Indian and global supply chain cotton scenario. Dr. Kavita Gupta, Textile Commissioner emphasized the importance of technical R&D needed to increase productivity as the average cotton productivity in India is just 528 kg/ hectare whereas the same stands at 2196 kg/hectare in Australia and 963 kg/hectare in the he Textile Exchange Sustainability US. The event also witnessed experts from apparel manufacturing/export industry discussing TConference held in India for the first on the topic ‘Make in India – Future Textile hub of the World.’ The outcome of this session was time was hosted by Mumbai from October the recognition of ‘Value Addition’ as the key for growth, but which is perhaps ignored by the 5-8, 2015 and appropriately themed industry in its march to get regular business. “Textiles – A Circular Life”. The event was a power-packed one with 33 sponsors from around the globe adding buzz to the two- day informative sessions by top speakers in sustainability, organic cotton round Prashant Agarwal, JMD, Wazir table and other material meetings. With over Advisors – “Things are not moving 340 delegates and media from 32 countries, in the manner in which it should the sessions were well-attended with active participation from the audience. move for India. Our overall textile export is much affected The main points of discussion at the various forums were the future of cotton, water and by conditions in international forest conservation, sustainability, supply business because we are not chain integrity, design and materials. The more focused on apparel interest from various stakeholders was exports. Garmenting is no more palpable and why not...? The textile industry production-driven, it’s a fashion which is a US $ 1.7 trillion business employs 75 million people worldwide, is collectively and service-driven industry; so the most damaging industry responsible for buyers and suppliers have to work approximately 10 per cent of the planet’s very closely.” carbon foot print.

Neeraj Verma, President – Wovens, Orient Craft – “Even our domestic market has not matured to that level where exporters can get value. Some companies are into domestic and export markets as they are trying to do balance according to the season, but I fail to understand why they don’t target to have capacity utilization for both the markets. Can’t they LaRhea Pepper, Managing have orders throughout the year Director, Textile Exchange –“The from both the markets? mission of Textile Exchange is to inspire and accelerate people to sustainable practices in the textile value chain. The Sanjay Jain, MD, TT Ltd. – “This is an opportunity for people and they goals are to make it easier for should very objectively analyse whether to take out few crore rupees for companies to adapt to changing garmenting rather than just expanding in spinning or ginning. They can opportunities and requirements start with basic items and online marketing to get a feel of whether the in textile sustainability and product works or not. Even if not, start it with trading and then move on that actions result in real and to the job work or own manufacturing.” meaningful change.”

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INDUSTRY REWIND 2015 WIRE

NEW DIRECTIONS KEEP THE INDUSTRY GOING

With a production capacity of 30,000 January 16-31 garments per day, Ludhiana-based Atith International Supreme Tex Mart is going in for (Chilly Grapes) enters February 1-15 ‘recycled schoolwear’ for the UK France market; adds ‘Recycled market. “The concept of sustainability new unit schoolwear’, and how to preserve resources is a Delhi-based Atith International the sustainable major theme for Western countries. (Chilly Grapes), exporter of commitment Our sweaters are a hit because it womenswear to Australia, Germany, from Supreme carries a subtle message that recycled USA and Austria, is growing and Tex Mart material is not only environment- entering new markets like France, friendly, but also comfortable and and expanding its sampling and good looking,” says Gautam Gupta, capabilities by opening the young Executive Director. a new unit in Sahibabad. “We are optimistic about our home furnishing items (mainly cushion covers and Ahmedabad-based Globe Textiles accessories) as we feel that the (India) has recently invested more segment could grow in the long run,” than Rs. 12 crore for a new facility informed Nirdosh Sadh, Proprietor. at the Apparel Park in Khokhra July 1-15 where the floor space is about Globe Textiles February 16-28 50,000 square feet. As of now the (India) invests unit has 2 lines of 150 stitching Pearl Global to add in new facility; 1,250 machines; machines besides other equipment. focuses on “Currently our group capacity has enhance capacity by energy saving 7 per cent gone up to 1,50,000 pieces per month, and in a phased manner we Pearl Global Industries Ltd., is shall ramp it up first to 2,50,000 and investing around Rs. 20 crore later 4,00,000 pieces per month.” – (US $ 3.2 million) for expansions Bhavik Parikh, CEO. in its factories in Bangalore and Chennai. The expansions will raise Tirupur-based The Ainnurruvar has the manufacturer’s production acquired important certifications capacity by 7 per cent to 5.35 March 1-15 such as Sedex, Fair Trade, GOTS, million pieces per month. With the The Organic, SA 8000, ISO 9000 and addition of 1,250 machines, the Ainnurruvar ISO 14000. This unusual feat by a company will have a total of 9,750 acquires all company having only 80 stitching sewing machines. Of the 450 new important machines is an example for other machines that will be deployed in certifications; small- and mid-level companies Bangalore (adding 150,000 garment sets example to follow. “As a member of Hydra pieces per month), 250 machines for small- and Confedera, we are very active on will become operational by this mid-level sustainable development and the month, while the remaining 200 companies ESG criteria of environmental, social machines will be operational by and governance,” revealed STS May 2015. Chockalingam, CEO.

58 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com INDUSTRYWIRE

Small- and mid-level companies in June 1-15 Tirupur, especially those focusing on KPR Mill to set the woven segment, are expecting up green field March 1-15 good business, and Beaumonde is manufacturing facility Beaumonde one of them. With annual business focusing of US $ 1.66 million (Rs. 10 crore) The Coimbatore-based KPR on woven Mill, with total business of almost and exporting 70 per cent of its garments; production, J. Victor, CEO of the US $ 425 million (Rs. 2,566 expects 300 crore), including garment export company says, “More than 20 buying of almost 25 per cent (i.e. US $ per cent houses are in discussion with us, 85.16 million or Rs. 511 crore), growth and we are now planning to expand is all set to add another large our capacities to meet their orders. green field manufacturing facility In the current scenario, we are at a cost of US $ 26.16 million expecting 300 per cent growth. (Rs. 175 crore). The new unit with 36 million-garment per annum- Working with Shahi Exports, Ashima, capacity will boost the total apparel Ambattur Clothing and many other manufacturing capacity to 95 million companies in various positions, garments per annum, said KP October 1-15 and overcoming various problems Ramasamy, Chairman. Stalwart Sourcing: like pollution issue RM Shankar, Knowledge Founder Director, Stalwart August 1-15 Sourcing Solutions, Tirupur is doing Campari Exports and networking an annual business of Rs. 22 crore adding new factory (US $ 3.6 million) and producing one in Faridabad helped company to lakh pieces per month of all kinds of BSCI, Sedex and Primark certified start, survive knitted apparels (outerwear). “We Campari Exports of Gurgaon, have clients like Universal Studio, manufacturing ladies and kidswear, Disney and many more in export, is expanding its manufacturing while Allen Solly, Van Heusen, etc. capacity by adding a new factory are in domestic,” shared Shankar. in Faridabad with an investment of about Rs. 25 crore. Expecting Rs. 100 crore turnovers in the current Go Go International, Bangalore having fiscal, the company is also involved workforce of more than 3,000 people in social work and support programs and doing an annual business of almost for orphanages as a CSR effort, US $ 30.76 million (Rs. 200 crore) informed Sunil Mehra, Director when November 16-30 has launched its brand ‘Antigravity’ talking about growth plans. Go Go for domestic market. “We are geared International up and targeting growth of US $ 1.53 August 16-31 launches million (Rs. 10 crore) for the current Cheer Sagar new brand season and US $ 4.16 million (Rs. 25 honoured with ‘Antigravity’ crore) for next financial year. Initially we National Productivity are expecting to sell 50,000 pieces and & Innovation Award double it by next season,” informed an enthusiastic Achal Goenka, Director, Exporting women’s fashion wear in Go Go International. both woven and knits, well-known exporter of Jaipur, Cheer Sagar, which has already won many accolades in various fields, has State Government of Rajasthan has once again been awarded with the recently conferred ‘Quality Mark National Productivity & Innovation Trust Award’ to Kamakshi Kraftex, a Award in Textile & Garment Sector Jaipur-based manufacturer of suiting, May 16-31 (pg. 36) for the year 2013-14. The award shirting, home furnishings and linen Kamakshi fabrics’. Akshaya Goyal, MD and was presented by Union Minister Kraftex of MSME Kalraj Mishra to Ravi Sarvesh Agarwal, CEO received the Poddar, Partner of the company, awarded with award. First generation entrepreneur, and who credited this success to ‘Quality Mark Akshaya, a CA, has good overseas the efforts of his entire team. The 16 Trust Award’ experience as he was associated with years old company is BSCI, WRAP a well known company in Russia for Gold Certified, ISO 9001:2008 more than a decade, while Sarvesh, an certified and it has 3 units where MBA has strong knowledge of textile almost 500 people are working. industry. This award was presented to promote industries in MSME sector.

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Arvind Mills’ denim unit has become September 1-15 the first denim unit in the country to Shahi Exports to be ISO 50001 certified. This is an invest Rs. 36 crore International Standard for Energy in Orissa; lays June 1-15 Management System which provides foundation stone of Arvind’s denim a robust framework for optimizing new facility unit, the first energy efficiency. The company in India to be introduced a range of products Four years ago, StitchWorld ISO 50001 under the Neo brand which utilizes (Stitching technology-based certified Neo dyeing machine that brings magazine of Apparel Resources) sustainability to deep dyeing as there published an article ‘Orissa: is no drainage of dye before or after The New Apparel Manufacturing dyeing for shade adjustment. It is a Destination!’, based on a study by closed-loop system which releases Priyanka Sinha of NIFT, comparing zero discharge. 113 locations in India on 50 different key performance indicators to settle on the best and most low-cost apparel manufacturing hubs. The Producing almost 1.2 million pieces news has come true as Orissa per annum (mostly jeans and shirts) Chief Minister Naveen Patnaik laid and exporting 90 per cent of its the foundation stone of the unit produce to various countries, Ashima at Mancheswar Industrial Estate, April 1-15 Dyecot, part of the Ahmedabad-based Bhubaneswar in the presence Ashima Dyecot prestigious Ashima Group, is moving towards automation by replacing old of Chairman of Shahi Exports is moving machines at its garment manufacturing Harish Ahuja who expressed hope towards that this step of the company will automation unit. Machines that would be installed encourage others to invest in the are mostly for jeans manufacturing like state. With an investment worth waistband attachment, loop attachment, US $ 5.5 million (Rs. 36 crore) and pocket seams, etc. informed Dipen proposed capacity of 0.3 million Patel, Head-Production. The garment pieces, the unit is expected to be unit of Ashima is WRAP certified and completed in one year and will also has certifications like ISO- 9001 & provide employment to about 2,500 ISO 14001. people. Doing an annual business of almost US $ 738 million (Rs. 4,800 Jaipur-based Saraf Textile Mills, crore), the company has expanded a part of Saraf Group, with three 200 times in the last 4 decades factories and 1,000 stitching and currently operates across 51 machines, has recently added a factories in six states and produces February 16-28 new factory of 500 machines. The 135 million garments per year. Saraf Textile company offering men, women and Mills adds new children wear is expecting 50 per cent Sepember 1-15 factory; eyes growth this year, views Vimal Saraf, SD Enterprises 50 per cent Director. Swimwear, which was investing in new growth started by the company one and half technology years ago, is fetching good orders. There are very few sweater manufacturers and exporters in Delhi-NCR, and one of them is SD Enterprises, a DISHA certified company, having its factory in Okhla. Celebrating its Golden Jubilee in The company has 11 flat knitting 2017, one of the well-known export machines, and with the capacity houses of Tirupur, Jupiter Knitting of 30,000 pieces of sweaters (high Company recently added 100 more fashion) per month, is expanding April 16-30 machines to enhance its capacity by adding 4 more machines, with Innerwear for ‘briefs’ manufacturing. Now an investment of Rs. 1 crore. exporting the company has a total of 1,100 “It’s like an expansion as well as companies are machines. technical upgradation for us as we T. Devendiran, GM expanding in briefed AO, “We are exporting most constantly want to control our cost Tirupur of our production to Europe and have and bring more innovation in our good orders for the next few months, products. That’s why we are going and expecting 20% growth as we for Japanese machines,” shared are focusing more on PD and IT Vineet Sood, Proprietor. intervention like ERP.”

60 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com H2FINDUSTRY

H 2 F REWIND 2015 INDUSTRY

GETTING INNOVATIVE FOR GROWTH

November 16-30 March 1-15 October 16-31 IKEA: INDUSTRY SHAYAN – THE BEDDING SUPRINT TEXTILES JAIPUR: SHOULD GET READY COMPANY: ADDING A NEW AN EXCEPTIONAL AND FOR ‘NEW PRODUCT DIMENSION WITH ALL WHITE GROWING COMPANY IN CATEGORIES’ VALUE-ADDED COLLECTIONS THE REGION!

Sourcing from India since the last 3 decades, Going deep and niche is the growth strategy There are very few companies in Jaipur Ikea picks up a lot of home textile products at Shayan – The Bedding Company. Just which are doing an annual turnover and has almost 48 suppliers in the country. a year old, the company has a lineage of of Rs. 80 crore and having vertically As of now, the company buying from 53 belonging to a group which is a traditional integrated setup. And out of them very few countries sees South Asia as one of the exporter of home furnishings under the will be expecting double turnover in next major buying destinations. Undeterred by name ‘East India’, as also running a buying few years. But Suprint Textiles seems to be slow market, in last fiscal Ikea registered agency Expo India that specializes in home an exceptional company that has its own growth of 12 per cent, which is phenomenal furnishing. Headed by the young Chetan processing house with ZLD processing, as it was in single digit from the last many Shah, the company is catering only to value- having an equal stronghold on export as years. With 23 years of industry experience added bed linen that too in white colour, well as domestic market, and similarly and working with Ikea since 2007, mostly for the European market. Working on competent in home and garment segment. Huge infrastructure, focus on product Kamal Gaba, shared his views. a unique collaborative supply chain model, development, timely diversification and a Mumbai-based Shayan is now looking to set strategy are some of the main reasons “Till now whatever we are sourcing enter the US and Indian markets with small that propel Suprint Textiles for growth, from India, is mostly cotton-based tweaking in its products to suit both markets. preparing it to double its business in the and going forward we are moving next two years. towards some synthetic products as “My mentor in Holland helped us well. This is one of the main areas in defining a niche and today many “Jaipur still does not have high to explore further. The solution as buyers who were earlier not sourcing class designers and nobody wants of now we see is to import fabric from to India for such products are to come here. Similar situation is from overseas and have a stitching showing interest, as our competition is with planning department. We have factory here, to ask our suppliers from Italy, which is very expensive. We changed our outlook and are now to put up a different unit for are seeing increased competition from hiring people in merchandising/ storage solutions.” – Kamal Gaba, Turkey and East European countries on planning up to Rs. One lakh per Business Development Manager – price, as both are able to give better month because we know without Textile Products, Furniture Fabrics costing and also have the advantage proper talent we can’t achieve our & Covers, Purchasing Operations of proximity.”- Chetan Shah, Director, target.” – Jasmeet Sodhi, Director, Areas South Asia Shayan – The Bedding Company Suprint Textiles

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September 16-30 January 16-31 October 1-15 DAKS INDIA: CREATIVITY AALIDHRA TECHTEX CORNELL OVERSEAS: LEADING TOWARDS SURAT TARGETING A SYNERGY OF THE GROWTH, HOME 100 PER CENT GROWTH WEST AND THE EAST; DIVISION ON AN UPWARD WITH HOMETECH HOME DIVISION A PROJECTILE PRODUCTS GROWING SEGMENT

Unlike most of the export companies Of the 12 segments in Technical Textiles, The very structure of Cornell Overseas, around the country, the reception at Hometech is one of the largest, and the Noida is tailor-made for uniqueness, Delhi-based Daks India does not issue segment is growing with the boom in real as it is owned by an American, but a simple visitor card, instead they give a estate and higher spending on home independently run by a lady from specific colour smiley; and as you enter interiors. The Technical Textiles market India. The strength of the company the office it is amazing to see every staff is expected to reach US $ 160.38 billion lies not only in its unique ownership, member wearing a smiley, but in different by 2018 at a CAGR of 3.71 per cent over but also in its corporate structuring colours. Along with being a kind of 2014-2019 and according to the Indian and attitude towards business, which identity, the smiley represents happiness, Research General, in the global technical is very different from other export to take work as fun and most importantly, textile market, Hometech (components companies. With an annual business a spirit to do something different and of furniture, household textiles and floor of US $ 6.7 million (Rs. 40 crore), 60 creative, which is the biggest strength coverings) contributes about 7 per cent per cent of which is in clothing and of the company working with many of the overall share. Even medium-level remaining 40 per cent in the home top premium brands and continuously exporters in this segment are growing. segment, Cornell Overseas, not only growing, expanding and reinventing itself. Surat-based Aalidhra Techtex is one such has a creative office, but also develops Daks India started its journey as a buying company that offers blackout curtains copyright prints. The company, which agent, moved on to make a mark as a (ultraviolet) and cushions with water and has a professional work culture, strong quality garment manufacturer/exporter dust repellent finishes for the export market, R&D department and undertakes small and now has 1,200 machines with and for the domestic market it offers but many sustainable initiatives, is led in growing presence in backpack and home parachute, lining, and heavy fabrics for India by Harpreet Sindhu, Director. segment. Passion for creativity is obvious luggage. The 25-year-old company, which when talking to Vanduta Khurana, is part of the US $ 66.6 million (Rs. 400 “We are proud to be a PD-driven President and Anil Khurana, CEO of crore) Aalidhra Group, has a total turnover company and don’t pick up any the company... of US $ 5 million (Rs. 30 crore), is expecting 100 per cent growth in the coming years. prints from the market; every “We work in a pro-active way print we produce is copyright so that we can get the loyalty of “The textile industry has a huge worldwide... We have a monthly the buyers for long-term mutual scope for growth; the next generation reporting system, including beneficial relationship. Similarly, should explore its potential. The production, finance, etc. and we don’t believe in saying ‘No changing worldwide conditions are I am free to take decisions. problem… We are completely also in our favour. We are using The kind of mutual trust that transparent, honest and open with 60-70 per cent polyester and the rest April and I share, never fails to buyers. We have built in a lot of cotton, but is flexible enough to cater amaze me, I am very fortunate, check points and once we have to all kinds of buyers’ demand and is because she trusts me completely taken an order, the team is always not rigid with any kind of product.” and I can trust my people here.” looking how to give better value.” – Suresh Gondalia, Director, – Harpreet Sindhu, Director, – Anil Khurana, CEO, Daks India Aalidhra Techtex Cornell Overseas

62 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com H2FINDUSTRY

August 16-31 MAHAJAN OVERSEAS BUILDS FIRST-EVER H2F HUBS TAKE STRIDE GREEN FACTORY BY A HOME FURNISHING PLAYER September 1-15 Home Furnishing hub Karur embracing change Mahajan Overseas has the distinction with positivity of growth of being the first ever Green factory in Haryana, and is the first in India which is truly dedicated to home Famed for its home textiles, Karur accounts for more than Rs. 6,000 crore-business annually, with textile products only. Not yet counted 80 per cent exported across the globe. The 500 odd companies dotting the landscape of Karur among the corporate giants of the in Tamil Nadu, a two hour drive from Tirupur — which played a significant role in the history and home industry, Mahajan Overseas culture of the state and its people — has a niche in bed , kitchen linens, toilet linens, table has always shown a very progressive linens and wall hangings. attitude towards the business and is today one of the best and most respected players of the segment from Panipat belt. Apparel Online visited the new unit and was impressed with the vision that this upfront company, under the stewardship of Pranab Mahajan, Director has for a sustainable future.

“Almost 4 years ago when we thought about expansion and putting up a new factory, MK Rajendheren, CEO, Veera Home Tex we felt why not something “Compared with other hubs, Karur different to stay ahead of needs to improve collective efforts as others, a difference that these are missing.” would give us satisfaction as Satheesh Ram, Marketing Director, Homebase Exports well as advantage over the others. “Wider width is not a problem as we And when we looked around have 4 looms (Out of total 11 rapier and saw the fast developments looms), with the width of 120 inches.” happening on the global front regarding environment, we decided for a Green factory, and now many of our buyers who have visited here have actually increased the quantum of work.” V. Ananthapadmanaban, CEO, Karur Textile – Pranab Mahajan, Director, Manufacturers Exporters’ Association which is Mahajan Overseas working from 1973 and has 143 members. “Despite many challenges, we are closely associated with local administration and pursuing for textile processing park and it is on initial documentation stage. We are in yellow K. Ramesh, Director, Tex-Worths category as we are into home textile “We are expecting almost 50 industry and don’t use very hazardous per cent growth this year as there chemicals. It will take time and effort is reasonable growth in the US, but but will come out...” Canada and Europe are still not much positive.”

Gunasekaran, MD of Kuppu Exports “We are following the designs/products according to what the buyers wish...with the kind of setup we have, it is difficult to do very good PD in-house.”

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February 1-15 April 16-30 White Paper on Panipat: Panipat firms up facilities and focuses on Jaipur Home Industry: Emerging expanding capacities as international markets revive as a strong and independent sector in exports

ith business booming, mainly in the export of blankets and made-ups, Panipat-based Whome furnishing companies are confident about their future growth. Be it a million dollar aipur has always been perceived as a company, a medium-sized company, or a small player, there is demand for their existing Jmanufacturing base for womenswear, product categories, and they are optimistic of renewed growth with the revival of the US market. accessories, jewellery, handicraft and Though poor infrastructure, lack of training initiatives, and high interest rates continue to create furniture, but of late, the centre has bottlenecks, companies are gearing up fast, with an increasing focus on product development, caught the eye of buyers looking for home expanding their production capabilities. The city has more than 4,000 firms engaged in export furnishings also. In fact, while doing this of home furnishing items worth US $ 1 billion (Rs. 6,000 crore) annually. The newly formed story, more than 18 home furnishing Panipat Home Furnishing Cluster (PHFC) has been allotted one acre land, where they will install a exporters shared that they were too busy multi-needle tufting machine, a ChromoJet printing machine and a 4-metre wide packing unit. to talk as they were sitting with buyers. Thanks to the reasonably good flow of orders which is keeping the Jaipur-based home furnishing exporters busy, the Ramesh Verma, home furnishing (soft goods) industry has MD, Diamond Exports emerged out of the shadows of the garment & Founder PHFC manufacturing industry, creating an identity “We have had of its own. several meetings with NSDC (National Atul Poddar, Partner, Skill Development Exotic Pods Creations Corporation) and are “There are many companies hopeful that a training that are into home as well as centre will start in the into garment manufacturing next 3 months, where or any other segment, but Asmita Dwivedi Paliwal, every kind of training that in no way takes away Director, Abhiasmi the strength of the home International (Paliwal will be provided...” Group) furnishing industry. In fact, “As the market we increasingly find that our environment is work is a source of inspiration becoming more and for garment people...” more challenging, buyers too are looking Navneet Jhalani, Proprietor, for vendors with whom Marudhara Arts Inc. they can consolidate “Earlier my buyers were their businesses...” asking mostly special prints of Jaipur, but now they are also sourcing plain dye from us which they could have sourced from any other centre...”

Chaitanya Rawat, Manglam Arts “We are equally into soft Ashok Kapur, goods of home segment and MD, Anunay Enterprises as well in other items in hard “In made-ups, printing is our forte and we will goods. I can clearly notice expand and strengthen the increasing move towards it more. We will focus PD in last three years since I more on product Prem Vij, Chairman, Harisons joined the business...” development for which & Harlaj Ltd. & President of Panipat Exporters Association we will set up a new Hira Nand Khatri, CEO, “As majority of Panipat Khatri Texstyles design studio with companies cater to the “My focus on PD is same Sumeet Nath, Managing 3 new designers...” Partner, Raj Overseas US, revival of the country’s as it was some years ago, “Panipat can’t be market is pushing them in both design and colours, specified for a towards further capacity but strength is still in block particular product building and expansion. Yet, prints; buyers are coming and as the city is making the city has still not come up will come mainly because almost all categories of to the level it had reached of this strength and cost made-ups...” prior to the recession...” advantage...”

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Apparel Online India

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RESOURCE REWIND 2015 CENTRE

EXPANDING RESOURCE BASE SUPPORTS INDUSTRY

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January 16-31 India, it has set up a testing facility with a fully equipped lab in SGS hosts Interactive Technical Seminar and 1 Tirupur, besides a lab in Bangalore, and has recently opened Networking Dinner another testing facility in Delhi-NCR. MTS team, comprising of SGS, the Switzerland-based inspection, verification, testing and Hogunn Park, COO, MTS and Dr. M.V.S Rao, Vice President – certification company in an endeavour to drive awareness about South Asia, Modern Testing Services (India) Pvt. Ltd., share sustainability issues in the textile chain, hosted an Interactive information during the facility’s inauguration in Noida... Technical Session and Networking Dinner on ‘Product Safety & February 16-28 Sustainability Issues in Global Textiles Markets’, in Noida (Delhi- Talreja Textile Industries puts strategies in NCR). Dr. Karen Kyllo, Deputy VP Global Softlines, SGS USA, 3 place; Focuses on nomination through a an internationally renowned expert on Product Safety, Performance and Sustainability in Textiles and a member of the AAFA Board of compliant setup Directors, AATCC Board of Directors, and the Consumer Advisor Though interlining may be a niche product, but it takes technical on the US Cotton Board, shared her thoughts on some critical expertise and sound knowledge to deliver, and Talreja Textile areas of concern to the industry as also future plans of SGS Industries Pvt. Ltd., an ISO 9001:2008 certified company, has moving into 2015. been successfully doing it for the past six decades. A leading manufacturer of Woven Fusible Interlinings,the company markets February 1-15 its products through an established brand name ‘Talco', which is Modern Testing Services (MTS) makes its mark yet 2 synonymous with high-quality and reliability. Catering to export again through quality service and advanced IT solutions markets, domestic markets and requirements of the defence Founded by Dr. B.J. Park in 1985-86, Modern Testing Services sector, the Mumbai-based company is revamping its existing (MTS) has soon spread its operations across 28 countries. It was facility, incorporating latest technology in interlinings and focusing taken over by Bureau Veritas (BV) in 2000, but after six years and a on nominations from national and international brands, disclosed non-competitive clause with BV, the company has re-started its Varun Fotedar, Vice President-Operations and Manish Rupani, operations, which are based on its previous business model. In Director, Talreja Textile Industries Pvt. Ltd. to Team AO.

66 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

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February 16-28 focuses on quality, creativity and innovation through a highly Jack Sewing Machine holds dealer conference; 4 motivated team which drives the company’s success. Speaking Declares India as the focus market for future growth exclusively to AO, Harsh Bassi, MD, Pioneer Group, shares Technical support and after-sales service have been touted by every strategies for both domestic and international markets and what technology provider and manufacturer as their top priority and the sets the company apart from its competition. “We speak the only way to find success in the highly competitive global market. customer’s language. One part of our business is embroideries But the industry rarely witnesses strong moves in this direction, and where mistakes can happen; after all it is not mechanical. One of in one such move, Chinese sewing solution pioneer Jack Sewing the important things that we have taught our team is to be open to Machine Co. Ltd. held the first agent conference in India at Hotel accepting faults.” Crown Plaza, New Delhi on 4th February. Apparel Online interviews March 16-31 Vincent Guo (VG), Director General Manager, Jack Sewing Optimystix coming up with in-house dyeing, Machine Co. Ltd. and Zhao Xin Qing, Chairman of Jack Sewing 7 OEKO-TEX Certification Machine Co. Ltd. Specialized in the manufacturing of zippers, metal buttons, February 16-28 eyelets and braided ropes, Tirupur-based company Optimystix is ATM Exports adds machines for embroidery, 5 continuously moving ahead for customer satisfaction and achieving laces and finishing of crochet fabric good growth also. Recently, the company has installed imported Believing in growing slowly yet steadily and never losing sight of automatic and latest machines for more smooth, better quality the prevailing market conditions, the forward-looking Faridabad- and advance making of its products. It is also coming up with a based company ATM Exports has recently added machines for state-of-the-art continuous zip rolls making plant equipped with making embroideries such as Aari, Chenille, Dori and Soutache dyeing facilities with a capacity of 20 lakh zippers per month. Work; laces such as Neck-Laces, Jhallar-Laces and Jacquard- Optimystix is investing US $ 0.33 million (Rs. 2 crore) in the Laces; and machinery for handling different kinds of yarns to give project which will be fully operational in the next 2 months, shared a new look to crochet fabrics. With expertise in making crochet Heerender Kataria, MD of the company. fabrics, cotton jacquard tapes, fine laces, embroideries, laser April 1-15 cuts, neck patches and other trims, the company mostly works From Fabric to Garmenting: Rasik Vatika offers with exporters who are looking to place bulk orders, and with some 8 small though serious players for whom quality is a priority, reveals one-stop solution in Fashion Tanuj Goel, Director to AO. Amongst the topmost manufacturers and exporters of superior quality fashion fabrics in Surat, Rasik Vatika Group of Companies March 1-15 today offers complete solutions from fabric to garment. Traditionally, A strong team and exceptional service backs 6 the company has focused on fabric for the past 45 years but with growth at Pioneer Embroideries changing times and market demand, the company has started Mumbai-based embroidered fabrics, lace manufacturer and yarn its own garment unit and is very upbeat of growth potential as major Pioneer Embroideries has established an impeccable an integrated unit. Vaibhav Arora, Director, Rasik Vatika reputation and carved its niche in the market for over a decade shares the company’s future plans and how Surat is emerging as now. Also, the owners of a retail brand ‘Hakoba’, the company a garmenting hub.

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April 16-30 May 1-15 Kotak Overseas looks towards 100 per cent growth; Intertek launches highly specialized leather and footwear 9 11 Provides complete gamut of products for bra testing laboratory in Chennai; New lab – one-stop shop manufacturing for all leather and footwear testing India’s leading player in accessories for the intimate apparel Not a company to rest on its achievements, Intertek, a leading industry, Kotak Overseas has made a niche for itself in bra trims, provider of quality and safety services to industries around manufactured both for the domestic and export market. Known for the world, is always looking for ways to support industry in its high and consistent quality products, the company works closely its efforts to be globally compliant. In a continuation of those with its customers to develop specific and customized products, efforts, the company recently inaugurated a comprehensive continuously innovating based on latest international trend forecasts. leather and footwear testing facility in Chennai to support the Nikhil Kotak, the young and enthusiastic CEO of Kotak Overseas country’s leather, footwear and leather goods industries. The talks about the evolving intimate wear market with more mature and new laboratory will offer a full range of safety and performance educated consumers and how the company has an edge in its field testing services to leather manufacturers in Southeast India. The by manufacturing locally. lab was inaugurated by Padma Shri Mecca Rafeeque Ahmed, Chairman of the Council for Leather Exports (CLE) and April 16-30 Farida Group. PARK Non-Woven enters garment interlinings 10 through QNF; Positive market response secures a May 1-15 Anand Furnishers now working towards successful future 12 Already established as a highly reliable brand in automobile and improvising cutting room furniture non-woven industry, PARK Non-Woven Pvt. Ltd. has recently Designing, developing and manufacturing customized furniture ventured into the garment industry through QNF Interlinings. Initially items since 1980, Delhi-based Anand Furnishers are now gearing catering to interlinings for automotive industry, the company has up for its next round of R&D. Already having sewing room furniture started approaching established export houses and is getting installations at premier export houses of the nation, the company is a good response from the market, both in domestic and export. now looking at designing cutting tables that have seamless joints. Robin Kapoor, Executive Director, PARK Non-Woven Pvt. Ltd. “Wherever there is a joint on a cutting table, the machine gets stuck shares with AO about creating a brand that can compete in or something unpleasant happens because of improper levelling. domestic and international markets. “QNF is an extension of our We are working towards alleviating that problem... “Our unit is fully core business and also represents moving up the value chain. equipped with latest machinery and equipments to produce any Within one-and-a-half years, we have been successful in getting kind of furniture item with utmost precision and accuracy,” informs acceptance by the industry...." SS Anand, Director, Anand Furnishers.

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May 1-15 July 1-15 TAL Group awards STAFLEX as ‘valuable partner for YKK, the world’s best zipper...; Reinventing Indian 13 15 interlinings’; Ceremony held at TAL’s Grand Chinese New operations for a wider customer base Year Annual Dinner Earning the confidence of many reputed fashion brands Recognizing and acknowledging vendor partners in the success of a for decades and manufacturing roughly half of the zippers company is a rare sight and though we have seen buyers award the used worldwide through 71 locations around the globe, is manufacturers for their performances, it is not a common practice YKK, the Japanese zipper giant. Producing 7.2 billion zippers in to award accessory and trim suppliers. Giving great pride to Staflex a year, manufactured to rigorous quality-control standards within Interlinings, TAL Group – innovative garment manufacturer of 100% a vertically integrated production system, YKK’s products cotton wrinkle free non-iron clothing, honoured NC Staflex Co. Pte. have earned the reputation of a global market leader. In an Ltd. for their contribution in supporting TAL for its quality reputation exclusive conversation with AO, Noboru Matsumoto, MD, for over 40 years. “We can always work towards nominations to YKK India Pvt. Ltd., talks about the strategic changes within increase business, but when companies like TAL endorse us purely the Indian operations over the past two years since he took on performance at a global platform, it is a great motivation,” says charge, and which have resulted in an upward growth for Ernest V Raj, Managing Director, NC Staflex Co. Pte. Ltd., a the company. Japanese company with its manufacturing setup in Singapore, and who are pioneers in cotton fusible and non-fusible interlinings in the July 16-31 Birla Cellulose leverages the “Liva” proposition at global market since 1973. 16 61st National Garment Fair May 16-31 Birla Cellulose, the flagship company of the Aditya Birla Group, Doshi Group: For sustainable fashion, innovative fibres 14 recently launched ‘Liva’ – a new age fabric brand in line with a must! Need for domestic players to use it for local consumer needs. Leading Bollywood diva, Kangana Ranaut is the consumption brand ambassador of Liva and had been part of the Liva launch in Increasingly it’s becoming possible to walk into a store, flip through Mumbai earlier this year. Made from natural cellulosic fibres using a rack of hangers and find a pair of bamboo-made pants, shirts wood pulp, a natural resource, Liva lends fluidity, comfort and constructed out of corn or dress made out of wood pulp. These fashion quotient in clothing. The company had earlier, in March fibres often blended with luscious organic , cashmeres, etc. 2015, also launched a unique concept called ‘Liva Accredited have become a staple for sustainable fashion, Sachin Doshi, Partner Forum’ (LAPF) of aggregated partners. LAPF is a Director, Doshi Group, Mumbai, the sole marketing partner of community of spinners,fabricators, and processors who work closely Anhui Tenbro Textile Co. Ltd.’s Tenbro brand, talks about the market with Birla Cellulose on innovation, quality & technology to deliver for innovative sustainable fibres. Liva fabrics to consumers.

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August 1-15 August 1-15 Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Sainmarks Industries certified by GOTS 17 19 India launches its new Website Tirupur-based Sainmarks Industries, production associate Taking its quest to be a benchmark in service, Bureau Veritas of Britannia Garment Packaging, UK which produces a Consumer Products Services India has recently launched its range of hangtags and labels for retailers both domestic and new country website at www.bureauveritas.co.in/cps, which international, has recently been certified by the Global Organic has a clean uncluttered design with enhanced features and Textile Standard (GOTS), recognized as the world’s leading functionalities. “The new website offers quick and easy accessibility processing standard for products made from organic fibres.“With to latest testing, inspection and factory and social audit services the choice of trims being considered as limited, we took a stride offerings for consumer products industry primarily for electrical forward to put the trims as well into GOTS certified range, and electronics, softlines and accessories, leather and footwear, said Aranganathan J (popularly known as AJ), Managing toys and juvenile products, hardlines and food products,” said Director, Sainmarks. Paromita Roy, Country Chief Executive of Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services in India. September 1-15 MITHRA & CO. offering a gamut of trims 20 August 1-15 and embellishments under one roof Coats launches thread for secure 18 Operating in a highly competitive market of garment trims and button attachment accessories,Tirupur-based Mithra & Co has created a niche with its In a recent development, Coats Group plc, the world’s leading ‘Agni’ and ‘Lancer’ brand of sewing threads along with dealing in industrial thread and consumer textile crafts business, is launching many different accessory categories to service its client base more Secura, a fusible thread which helps secure buttons and also comprehensively. Tight control over quality, right from sourcing other decorative applications such as sequins and beads. Secura of raw materials to finished products along with an ‘affordable’ is a polyester/polyester core spun thread which resists abrasion price band, ensures that the company has dedicated dealers who and ensures excellent sewability.“Secura has been developed in distribute the product range pan-India, shares Kesavar Senthil, response to feedback from our customers looking for ways to reduce MD of the company who is now looking to backward integrate into returns of garments due to buttons, beads or sequins coming loose,” spinning to support his thread manufacturing for better control over informs Rajiv Sharma, CEO, Industrial, Coats Group plc. quality and lead times.

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September 16-30 October 16-31 Top Light Labels specializes in jacquard elastic; FREUDENBERG: From trends to solutions; 21 23 Niche categories provide an edge to the company India a growth market with diverse opportunities A well-established name in manufacturing of labels and elastics Offering technically challenging products and services, Freudenberg in the garment industry, Tirupur-based Top Light Labels is a Nonwovens India provides its customers with a total package of trusted name for many familiar brands,internationally and locally. solutions in interlinings and nonwoven fabrics, catering to both N. Velusamy,Chairman, Top Light Labels and his enterprising domestic and export markets needs with equal thrust. The company daughter Kani Prabha Velusamy, representing Gen-Next of the is into many diverse segments including apparel, building material, company, talk about the business and what new the company is medical, hygiene, technical specialities, shoe components, all of doing. Always looking to keep abreast with latest market needs, Top which are critical for their business in India. G. Sivasailam, MD, Light Labels has recently ventured into digital printing on elastics at Freudenberg Nonwovens India Pvt. Ltd. talks about their market its factory, which was established in 2005. strength, quality standards, product offerings and the inevitably important,innovation culture, consumer and fashion trends. October 1-15 Kornit Digital creates synergy with screen printing November 1-15 22 for design exploration AMANN makes its mark in India; Quality products 24 The clamour for digital printing as the next big thing in garment and customer service sets it apart value addition is getting bigger by the day. But, ironically many For more than 160 years, Amann Group has been one of the global misconceptions have put brakes on the acceptance of the technique leaders in high quality sewing and embroidery threads ranging at an industrial level and many in the garment industry still believe from regular use to high-tech applications. In India also, the Group that it is too expensive and limiting to invest in currently. Breaking has made its mark through its level of customer service and high- the myth that digital printing is going to replace screen printing and quality products. S. Suresh, CEO & CFO of Amann Sewing & that the technology is ‘expensive’, Sanjib Baruah, Sales Channel Embroidery Threads Private Limited, shares the growth strategy Manager for SAARC Region from Kornit Digital says, “It is not of the Group in India. Responding to market demands, Amann India the case of either or survivor, it is about co-existence and getting is planning to upgrade its warehousing & logistics facility in Chennai better value for users by optimising the core strengths of both as well as at Amann central warehouse in Germany that will enable printing technologies.” Amann India to serve its customers more efficiently and promptly.

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November 16-30 customers looking to produce designed products for the international Schiffli giant Saurer Embroidery strategizes for next 25 market, as also the Asian domestic market, the upcoming show will phase of growth; Emphasis on better service, new bring together various stakeholders in the value chain. markets and automation December 16-31 Since its inception in 1995, Saurer Embroidery Systems (India) Pvt. Danufil® Proshade® revolutionizes the textile industry Ltd. has over the years emerged as a centre of excellence in schiffli 27 through partnership with Linz, DyStar and Kelheim embroidery. Through an efficient management system with technical expertise, backed by a huge infrastructure, Ankush Kapoor, As the leading spinning and weaving company in Europe, Linz Textil Ashish Khanna and Aditya Khanna, the dynamic trio behind the GmbH has introduced an innovative yet challenging concept to sell success of the company, share what makes them grow. in the Indian market, called the Danufil® Proshade®. Currently, being represented in India by Stuti Exports Pvt. Ltd. which is December 1-15 based in Mumbai, the company has launched an innovative new Shima Seiki geared for first ever private show; 26 viscose mélange yarn, which no one has yet ventured in India with. Targets Asia The Linz Textil team of Matthias Lucan (Head of Research & “Not all customers from Asia are able to make it to ITMA,” says Development) and Harald Schneebaur (Area Sales Manager), Ikuto Umeda, Executive Director, Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd., as one Pradeep Roongta (MD, Stuti Exports Pvt. Ltd.) and Michael of the major reasons that the company is organizing a private show Rodrigues (GM – Fabric, Shakthi Knitting Ltd.) shared with in Hong Kong in January. However, the show is not just for those AO details about this new revolutionary product and its growing who missed out on the ITMA, it is much more. Focused for the Asian acceptance in the Indian market…

LABELS / TAGS ELASTICS / TAPES Tagging the BEST

Nilesh Impex India (P) Ltd. (Manufacturers of Plastic Seal Tags) 8/88, Laxmi Nager, 50 Feet Road, Tirupur - 641 602, Tamil Nadu, INDIA Contact Person: R. Vijay Yadav - 94433 4238, Phone: 0421-4336765, 4336364 Email: [email protected], [email protected] www.nileshimpexindia.com

72 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com RESOURCECENTRE

BUTTONS / BUCKLES LABELS / TAGS / BARCODES

FANCY EMBROIDERY LACES EMBROIDERY FABRIC / LACES

THREADS / YARN HANGERS / PACKAGING ACCESSORIES

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Apparel Online India 74 Apparel Online India | JANUARY 1-15, 2016 | www.apparelresources.com EYES & EARS... PICKING UP BUYER NEWS FROM THE ROOTS

January 16-31 as probable country manager. Currently, the products include sportswear like tee-shirts, IKEA to double sourcing from India brand is working with almost a dozen buying polos, sweats, shorts and long sleeve knits. A World’s largest furniture retailer, IKEA, is planning houses as well as many factories in India. source claimed that as of now some orders are to double its sourcing of home furnishing products in the process with Bangalore/South India-based July 16-31 from India by 2020 from Euro 315 million to Euro companies while one Noida-based sportswear Fifth Avenue expecting 100% growth 630 million. The company has been sourcing manufacturer is also in touch with the company. in coming years; shifting its main products from India for the past 27 years, working operations to Bangalore office October 16-31 with 48 suppliers. “We are not only looking at Nine Square: A new buying existing home furnishing manufacturers but also Doing approximately US $ 88 million turnover per house in Tirupur at new companies to diversify into the product year, Chennai-based buying house Fifth Avenue Nine Square, a buying house in Tirupur, has just category, who are looking at growing with us,” is expecting to double its turnover in the next 1½ recently completed first year of its establishment. avers Sandeep Sanan, Head of Sourcing, years. It is working very systematically for this Somu, one of the Partners in the company IKEA South Asia. stupendous growth as it has enhanced focus last shared with Apparel Online that the first year year on the US market and is now expecting about of business was good and to the expectations March 16-31 30 per cent of total business from the same. Superdry opening its direct sourcing of the partners. “As we are now entering into office in Gurgaon July 16-31 the second season, our expectation is to grow by about 30 to 40 per cent. Our team is also Superdry, a UK-based brand owned by Babolat exploring sourcing options from India working to add new buyers as we have very SuperGroup plc, which is currently sourcing vast experience in various segments of apparel 29 per cent of its products from India and Sri Babolat, the famous French company best industry. Whereas our own manufacturing is Lanka, is in the process to start its own office known for its strings and tennis rackets, is concerned, despite serving our buyers well, we in Gurgaon. Hiring in QA, QC, merchandising exploring India for apparel sourcing. According want more control on quality and want to secure and PD departments for the new office is in full to industry sources it started its own office in total satisfaction of buyers. It is more easy with swing; however no name as yet has emerged Bangalore almost 1½ years ago and its main own manufacturing.”

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