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Life Cycle Assessment for the Dyeing and Finishing Process of Organic Cotton Knitted Fabrics

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Life Cycle Assessment for the Dyeing and Finishing Process of Organic Cotton Knitted Fabrics Volume 8, Issue 2, Summer 2013 Life Cycle Assessment for the Dyeing and Finishing Process of Organic Cotton Knitted Fabrics K. Babu Murugesh Department of Textile Technology Bapuji Institute of Engineering and Technology India [email protected] M. Selvadass Visvesvaraya Technological University India ABSTRACT This paper summarizes the results of the life cycle assessment (LCA) for dyeing and finishing process involved in development of 1 ton, 2/40’s, 100% organic cotton single jersey knitted fabrics. Results show that the environmental impact of the dyeing and finishing process of knitted fabrics is primarily due to the method of dyeing process adopted, the dye quantity used to obtain the required color and color strength, electricity and compressed air use, the burning of wood in the industrial boiler for production of steam, the operation of an effluent treatment plant to treat process effluent and transport of chemicals. The environmental impact observed for dyeing fabric in softflow dyeing machine and non-silicate CPB dyeing method remains same, however, the intensity is greatly reduced in non-silicate CPB dyeing method. The environmental impact of finishing process is mainly due to use of softener, burning of wood in boiler for production of steam, use of compressed air and electricity. Keywords: Life cycle assessment, environmental impact, organic cotton, knitted fabrics, dyeing, finishing 1 Introduction Tufekci, Sivri & Toroz, 2007; Jaya, 2011; Rita, 2012; Mahfuza et al., 2009). Every The knit fabric processing is one of the process and almost every operation within a important industries related with knitted processing plant has an environmental fabric manufacturing operations. Fabric aspect that should be considered and for processing is a general term that covers all which the environmental performance can operations related to scouring, bleaching, potentially be improved. The main dyeing, finishing and printing. This industry environmental issues in fabric processing sector has massive and undeniable economic are water use and pollution, energy use and value but also causes unprecedented climate change and chemical use (Crem, environmental impact that raises 2011). Further, the amount of pollutants and sustainability issues (Jayanth et al., 2011; waste generated by processing facilities has Article Designation: Refereed 1 JTATM Volume 8, Issue 2, Summer 2013 become an increasing costly problem for defined as any change to the environment, manufacturers and a significant stress on the whether adverse or beneficial, wholly or environment (EPPP, 1994). partially resulting from an organization’s environmental aspects (ISO 14001, 2004). Recently, buyers are including To study the environmental impact of sustainability issues in their purchasing products, an inventory of all material inputs policies that mainly focus on social issues and energy for the product should be but also on environmental aspects of the prepared along with the emissions to the production process. The demand for environment. Subsequently, this life cycle sustainable clothing, significant inventory can be used to calculate the size of improvements in enforcement of various environmental impact indicators. environmental laws by regulatory authorities and further compliance by manufacturers In this paper, the environmental impact clearly demonstrate a growing recognition analysis for dyeing and finishing process of the importance of moving towards a more adopting gate-to-gate LCA using Impact sustainable model for the textile and 2000+ methodology is presented. The clothing industry (Dystar, 2010). objective of the study is to determine and examine the differences in the The future development of the industry environmental impacts of exhaustion & cold will depend on several factors, including the pad batch dyeing and finishing process for adoption of Best Management Practices the production of 1 ton, 2/40’s 100% organic (BMPs) and Environmental Management cotton single jersey knitted fabrics dyed to Systems (EMS) (BMP, 1996; Datta, 2011). three different colors using textile reactive The BMPs helps to maximize the efficiency dyes. of raw material usage, while minimizing the consumption of energy, water and auxiliary 2 Research methodology chemicals and the discharge of environmentally damaging materials. The 2.1 Environmental aspects of textile EMS provides the company with an dyeing and finishing processes integrated approach to managing and monitoring its environmental effects and Dyeing is the application of desired complying with environmental regulations. color (textile dyes) to the fabric whereas, An effective and efficient EMS will provide finishing involves a number of processes the company with the opportunity to reduce such as softener padding to impact softness, costs, to reduce its environmental impact, voluminous handle & hydrophilic character increase efficiency and enhance its to the fabric, drying to remove moisture and reputation. compacting to impact dimensional stability. Life cycle assessment (LCA) (Rebitzer The fabric dyeing process is depended et al., 2004) can be used as part of EMS in on many factors. These include the order to evaluate environmental fabric state (tubular or open width performance and also as a tool for fabric), the color and color strength to identification of significant environmental be developed, the dyeing process (batch aspects of products or service of an or semi continuous) adopted, the dyeing organization. An environmental aspect is technology (exhaust or cold pad batch) defined as an element of an organization’s adopted, the quantity of material to be activities or products or services that can dyed, and quality requirements of the interact with the environment. An aspect dyed fabric. regarded significant is the one that has or can have a significant environmental impact (Anna, 2011). An environmental impact is Article Designation: Refereed 2 JTATM Volume 8, Issue 2, Summer 2013 The finishing process of dyed fabrics such effluents often exceeds acceptable depends on the end use of the fabric and standards and the concentration of pollutants the customer requirements. The most is generally high. The impact can be common finishing process involves the significant when several processing plants use of silicon softener to improve the are located at one place and discharge fabric softness and handle. This is effluents into a common source. followed by the drying and compacting process. In general, the recent environmental policies led the processing industry of Exhaust dyeing process using softflow knitted fabrics to adopt some dyeing machine is the most popular and environmentally responsible activities such common method used for dyeing of the as: knitted fabrics. Here, the fabric is rotated in a large volume of dye bath containing The use of low impact reactive dyes. reactive dyes, dyebath chemicals and The use of low liquor ratio softflow auxiliaries. During this process, the dye gets dyeing machine. slowly transferred from a dyebath to the The use of non-silicate cold pad substrate (cotton) that is to be dyed. This batch dyeing technology. method uses a high material to liquor ratio Adopting good management that result in high volume of effluent. practices to achieve right first time dyeing. Cold Pad batch (CPB) dyeing is used for Setting up zero effluent plant for dyeing cotton knitted fabrics. The basic treatment of process effluent. technique is to pad the pretreated ready for dyeing (RFD) fabric with premixed dye 2.2 Process sequences adopted for liquor. The padding process forces the development of knitted garments dyestuff inside the fabric for greater penetration while removing excess dye Global Organic Textile standards solution. The fabric is then batched on rolls (GOTS) approved 2/40’s, 100% organic for 4 to 12 hours. The batching time depends cotton super combed hosiery yarn was upon the type of dye used, the color and procured and knitted to gray fabric using a color strength developed. Typically, the single jersey knitting machine. The gray batches are covered with a plastic film to fabric was sent to a processing mill where it prevent carbon dioxide absorption and was subjected to pretreatment processes rotated continuously. While in batching, the such as demineralization and combined dyestuff penetrates and reacts with the scouring and bleaching process to develop fabric, resulting in even, consistent color. scoured RFD fabric. The RFD fabric was After the reaction is complete, the fabric is dyed and finished to develop ready to stitch washed using counter current continuous (RTS) fabrics. washing machine. The dyeing process involves the use of The environmental aspects of the dyeing textile reactive dyes, dyebath chemicals and and finishing are closely connected to the auxiliaries to obtain the required color and high volume of process effluent released. color strength using an exhaust or non- This is followed by emissions to air and silicate CPB dyeing method. The finishing energy consumption. The effluent is process involves softener padding, drying characterized by high total dissolved solids and compacting. The finished fabrics are (TDS), biological oxygen demand (BOD), later transported to garment unit for cutting chemical oxygen demand (COD) and color & stitching into garments. that has adverse impact on surface water, ground water and on land. The volume of Article Designation: Refereed 3 JTATM Volume 8, Issue 2, Summer 2013 Three samples S1, S2 and S3 was recipe used
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