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CHAPTER XIII

TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS (TRAs)

COTTON RESEARCH Testing, from the National Accreditation ASSOCIATIONS Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories, Department of Science and There are eight Textile Research Technology, . Associations (TRAs) receiving financial support from the Ministry of , of ATIRA during the year worked on 23 these the following are the Textile different projects/studies (12 projects in the Research Associations (CTRAs)- core areas i.e. , and Processing, 2 in Environmental l Ahmedabad ’s Engineering, 4 in Machinery Development, Research Association(ATIRA), 4 in Electronics and Information Technology Ahmedabad and 1 in Management areas), of which 6 l Bombay Textile Research Association have been completed successfully while the (BTRA), . rest are in progress. These projects have been sponsored by various agencies like l South India Textile Research Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Association (SITRA), Coimbatore Communications & Information Technology, l Northern India Textile Research Government of Gujarat, Defence Research Association (NITRA), Ghaziabad. and Development Establishment, and the Industry. Out of 23 different projects, 3 have Like other TRAs, these TRAs are textile been sponsored by the industry. industry promoted private bodies, set up and promoted by the textile industry of the Consultancy Areas respective region for carrying out research and providing them various services l ATIRA provided guidance to more including consultancy, testing, training and than 60 units for the implementation research etc. Their main sources of of upgraded ginning technology. In earnings include government grants, addition, training was offered to 397 subscriptions from member-mills, fees from members of 77 ginning units on the services etc. Since these have various ginning aspects. renowned industrialists as their elected Chairmen in overall in-charge of their l Technical consultancies were functions, Government provides full provided in improving quality autonomy in their functioning. parameters like neps, classimat faults, yarn strength and elongation. Performance of ATIRA It was observed that improvement of the order of 25 to 40% in neps During 2004-05 ATIRA obtained and classimat faults and 5% in accreditation for its two laboratories (i) strength and elongation was Chemical Testing and (ii) Mechanical achieved. 183 m i n i s t r y o f t e x t i l e s l Fabric realization and fabric defect l Workshop on “Modernisation of analysis were the major Textile Industry” consultancies offered in the weaving l ATIRA Powerloom Service Centre area. inaugurated at Indore on 27.10.2004 l Technical consultancy in the areas followed by a Technical Seminar for of spinning, weaving, processing, Powerloom Owners. energy conservation and l Lectures held at ATIRA by the officials environmental engineering were from the Society of Dyers and provided to the industry. Colorists, UK l Studies on ‘technical viability’ were l Workshop for Handlooms conducted carried out by a multidisciplinary by ATIRA-CATD Centre at Indore team of experts from spinning, (M.P.) weaving, processing, costing and finance. During the year, the team Glimpses has carried out technical viability for l five mills. ATIRA scientists visited 67 units and paid 272 visits on consultancy as well as project work. Application for patents on the following subjects l 33 reports were prepared for various units who sought ATIRA consultancy services. l Cotton Contamination Analyser (complete specification accepted) l 13508 different samples were tested at ATIRA, Ahmedabad and 657 at l “Biodegradable Hydrogen” ((patent ATIRA Regional Centre at Indore. filed jointly by ATIRA and GSFC Science Foundation has been l The newly set calibration laboratory accepted). took up 370 calibration assignments during the year covering 2800 l Rotation Ring/Fixed Yarn Guide instruments from textile and other System for Ring Frames and like industries. Machines l ATIRA training programmes were in l Instrument to Assess Frictional good demand during the year. In Behaviour of Spindle Bolster all 303 mills sponsored their staff for Assembly for Ring Frame and like the 49 ATIRA training programmes. Textile Machine Total number of trainees participated l ATIRA Pneumatic Cleaning System are 1617. for Comber Half-Laps Machine l Thirteen papers presented by ATIRA scientists during the year and Events held fourteen papers were published by ATIRA staff during the year. l 46th Joint Technological Conference held at ATIRA on 12-13.03.2005. BTRA l Seminar on “Indian Textile Industry in the WTO Regime” In 2004-2005, research and development activities at BTRA were directed towards l ATIRA Celebrated Sixth National developing cost effective techniques, Technology day on 11.05.2004. product innovation, improving product (yarn/ 184 a n n u a l r e p o r t 2 0 0 5 - 0 6 fabric) quality, ensuring utilities (energy and Performance levels of Modern Blended water) conservation, improving productivity Yarn Spinning Mills in India’, (iii) Quality and machine maintenance. During the year, Parameters for Home Textiles and (iv) six technical reports on sponsored projects Norms for Chemical Processing. These four were submitted to the concerned publications were well received by the sponsoring agency. Also, BTRA completed industry. three sponsored projects and three in- house projects. The number of on-going Projects sponsored projects is eight out of which one project is newly initiated during the year In the field of Nonwovens and Technical under review. Textiles, BTRA has set-up a technical textiles laboratory. BTRA has developed National Recognition needle-punched nonwoven from viscose fibre with different parameters. It has also BTRA has successfully developed modified handloom to be operated by a handicapped developed nonwoven from cotton waste. person. This development has received national recognition by getting two awards In the field of Microbiology / biotechnology, viz., (i) National Award 2004 for ‘Adaptability BTRA has undertaken three in-house of Innovation to Provide Cost-effective projects viz., efficacy anti-fungal activity of Technology Category’ and (ii) NCPEDP- treated fabrics, development of microbial Shell Helen Keller Award 2004 for suspension for increasing soil fertility with ‘Individuals who have been active in extended shelf life and mosquito repellency promoting the cause of employment for of furnishing fabrics. persons with disabilities’ Joint Technological Conference Projects for Defence Labs Forty-sixth Joint Technological Conference Under a project on ‘Optimisation of heat set was jointly organised by ATIRA, BTRA, conditions for narrow fabrics’ sponsored by NITRA and SITRA on 12th and 13.03.2005 ADRDE (Aerial Delivery Research & at ATIRA, Ahmedabad. BTRA staff Development Establishment), Ministry of presented the following six research Defence, BTRA has completed the work of optimisation of heat set conditions to papers- achieve minimum level of permanent set, low elongation and higher strength without l Evaluation and Requirement of Raw deteriorating other properties. Material and In-process Material for producing World Class Yarn Under a project on ‘Anti-fungal of l Application of IT Systems in selective cotton textile using commercially Chemical Processing available finishes’ sponsored by ADRDE, Agra, BTRA has carried out optimisation of l Effect of Enzyme and Silicon the formulation and the treatment condition. Finishing Treatments on Physical Properties on /Cellulosic Publications Blended Textiles l Cost Reduction in Chemical BTRA has released four publications viz. Processing – Few Case Studies (i) ‘Global Challenge vis-à-vis performance levels of Modern Cotton Spinning Mills in l Role of Lubricants in Weaving India’ ,(ii) ‘Global Challenge vis-à-vis Machines 185 m i n i s t r y o f t e x t i l e s l Total Quality Management with SITRA Special Reference to Textile Industry During 2004-05, SITRA was involved in 34 Research Projects and 141 Consultancy Consultancy Services Studies in the areas of Product Development, Process Control, Chemical BTRA has undertaken extensive liaison and Processing, Machinery Development, consultancy services to solve problems of Energy Conservation, Instrumentation and quality, maintenance, productivity, water / Finance and Productivity. In the area of Human Resource Development, 16 energy conservation, etc., at various levels. different training programmes were Also special studies [such as techno- organised benefiting 798 managerial and economic viability, valuation of fixed assets, technical mill personnel; about 1,411 vetting out revival proposals, equipment workers participated in labour training verification, control panel valuation, etc.] for programmes conducted at shop floor level the mills are undertaken. at their own mills. Under international training programmes, 64 trainees from 21 BTRA has undertaken quality audit in different developing countries attended spinning for 6 mills, maintenance audit in these courses. spinning for 4 mills and maintenance audit in weaving for 3 mills during the year. SITRA’s Powerloom Service Centres offered a wide range of services, including ISO-9000 group of BTRA assisted six units 1,400 technical consultations, around 2,200 for ISO 9000 (2000) revision and new designs, 119 training programmes to certification. It has helped one testing around 1,123 persons, around 30,000 yarn laboratory for ISO 17025 accreditation. It and cloth tests and over 3,750 liaison visits. has also conducted audits on behalf of certifying bodies. More than 15 units During the year, 19 publications including purchased Audio-Video CD on ‘Computer 5 monographs and 6 research reports were based training modules for TQM in the brought out. SITRA scientists have textile industry’ published 21 technical papers in reputed scientific journals. BTRA has conducted numerous need NITRA based training programmes on topics of interest such as quality audits, lubrication Overseas consultancy in Ethiopia- and programmes in testing, quality NITRA has bagged two prestigious inspection, etc. overseas assignments from Ministry of Trade & Industry, Government of Ethiopia- University Recognition for Ph.D. – For (i) Preparation of Business Plan, Ph.D. in Textile Technology, BTRA has been Implementation and Start-up of a Textile and a recognised centre of Mumbai University Garment Industry Support Institute in Addis for many years. Now, the recognition is Ababa, Ethiopia, and (ii) Training Sewing extended to the field of Ph.D. in Chemistry Machine Operators engaged in Ethiopia and M.Sc. in Chemistry by Research. Apparel Industry.

In addition, BTRA is managing 3 Powerloom Construction of NITRA Garment Wing Service Centres situated at , Building- NITRA had ventured into and Madhavnagar in . manpower training three years ago and 186 a n n u a l r e p o r t 2 0 0 5 - 0 6 started job-oriented professional programs Research & Development: A few of the at Ghaziabad. Students who have passed notable projects undertaken during the out, are well placed in the Industry. NITRA reported period are Development of has also set up an independent Garment combined and sectional warping for Wing at its campus in Ghaziabad. The wing fine counts/single yarn for producing high is fully operational at present. Beginning priced cotton fabric for decentralized with just one program in 2002, NITRA at powerloom sector, Development of cost present offers 6 regular programs and 3 effective and eco-friendly bleaching of programs on distance-learning (DLP) for the natural textile fibres using advanced benefit of working executives. oxidation technique and Development of cost effective model process house for Nodal Agency for TEV Study: NITRA has handloom sector for upgrading technology been working as nodal agency for by adopting various controls and practical assessing technical viability of textile measures. In addition to that, NITRA has industry for availing the benefits of developed a unique PLC based steam flow restructuring of debt profile under the Textile meter. The device is successfully installed package offered by MOT. As a result, NITRA in commercial units. has successfully completed a number of TEV Studies for different units in the last Technical Consultancy: During the one year and many more assignments are in the pipeline. reported period NITRA has conducted 77 technical consultancy jobs on different Nodal Agency to Train VRS optees-: The parameters of textile, garment and allied Ministry of Heavy Industries & Public industry. NITRA’s Environment division Enterprises has designated NITRA as developed techniques to recover and reuse Nodal Agency for counseling, retraining and the effluents discharged from textile redeployment of VRS optees of Public units without using Reverse Osmosis(RO). Sector Enterprises under CRR Scheme. The system is capable to recover and reuse Keeping in mind the emerging need for about 50% to 70% of the processing effluent alternative occupation for VRS optees, back into the process house. During last NITRA offered short-term training programs, year NITRA’s energy team conducted a so as to help them find alternative number of energy audits (thermal, electrical, occupation. power quality, humidification, air conditioning, D.G. sets and compressors) Job oriented Garment Programs: NITRA by which the mills saved to the tune of 10% is offering techno-commercial programs on to 20% of their energy bill. Garment Technology & Management, Computer Aided Garment Designing, Quality Evaluation: Altogether 5403 testing Computer Aided Textile Designing and jobs on different parameters of textiles, Sewing Machine Operation & Maintenance dyes, chemicals and effluents were carried for fresh science, arts and commerce out in NITRA LABS DURING LAST YEAR. graduates and working executives in order Additionally, 51 fabric defect analyses were to meet the demand of the garment industry. also carried out during the said period. Also The programs are run both as full time and DLP. Textile and Garment industry during the reported period NITRA’s nationwide highly regards the courses Software Development Centre developed offered by NITRA and as a result, 500 eight software of different nature, suitable students passed out so far are well placed for small and medium scale industry, at a in the industry. very nominal price. 187 m i n i s t r y o f t e x t i l e s

HRD Activities: Amongst HRD activities, , for the development of NITRA organized 36 workshops /seminars Contour socks for the composites / training programs/lecture meets/talk used in the nose portion of the Light sessions for the benefit of textile, garment Combat Aircraft (LCA). and allied units. NITRA offers a unique SASMIRA is also contributing to the techno-mail service that comprises NITRA missile programmes of ministry of News Bulletin, Joint Article Alert Service defence like Prithvi, Trishul, Agni, (JAAS) and NITRA Tex-Clips. In addition Sagarika, etc. Considering to that, the resources of library were further SASMIRA’s contribution in the field of enriched in various specialties. The library technical textiles, the Ministry of provided consultation and reference Textiles has identified it as one of the services to students, researchers and centers of excellence for Technical faculty from various other institutes of Delhi Textiles in India. and other states. Furthermore, NITRA library from time to time publishes useful l Education/Studies SASMIRA also technical books and techno-business imparts manpower training through literature, for the benefit of the industry. technical education offering various diploma and certificate courses. SYNTHETIC & ART MILLS SASMIRA is also authorized by the RESEARCH ASSOCIATION. Ministry of Textiles to carry out viability (SASMIRA), MUMBAI studies under the package for restructuring high cost debts of textile The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills’ Research units in the organized sector. Association (SASMIRA), Mumbai is a co- l Testing services SASMIRA’s testing operative venture set up by the man-made services are accredited by the textile industry of India with the prime National Accreditation Board to the objective of rendering scientific and Testing and Calibration Laboratory technical assistance to the textile industry. (NABL). Testing is as per ISO/IEC SASMIRA is engaged in various activities 17025 norms. The certification made viz. research and development, a positive impact on the testing and instrumentation, technical education, technical services and has resulted dissemination of technical information and in better interaction with the industry. organizing seminars and conferences. l Projects SASMIRA is engaged in the implementation of two projects Activities during 2005-06 sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles l Applied Research Commencing with Ø “Zero effluent in the wet the testing of textile materials, processing units”. The main SASMIRA has geared its activities to objective of this project is to meet the changing needs of the man- recycle process house exhaust made textile industry. It is engaged in dye liquor containing different applied research in textile materials, dyes. The process also development of products and recycles wash liquor so that the processes, and associated with generation of effluent and cost national security for their of effluent treatment is reduced. developmental activities. SASMIRA is Ø “Development of geo-textile associated with the Aeronautical for pavement overlay”. This Development Agency (ADA), project aims to develop a range 188 a n n u a l r e p o r t 2 0 0 5 - 0 6

of woven and non-woven 10 % to R.s.130 lakhs during 2005-06, as geosynthetics from per the decision taken by the R&D polypropylene and for Committee chaired by the Additional pavement overlay applications. Secretary & Financial Adviser to the Ministry Field trials will be undertaken to of Textiles. popularise the technique, which is very popular abroad. MAN MADE TEXTILES RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (MANTRA), SURAT SASMIRA completed the following projects in the previous year The Man-Made Textiles Research Association (MANTRA), Surat, is a Textile l Development of multiplayer garment Research Association concentrating on for sportswear and leisurewear. man-made fibres. It has been taking up need-based R&D projects in areas related l Speciality from recycled PET to quality and productivity improvement, bottles using different spinning product development, energy, ecology, and techniques. environment. MANTRA is recognized as a l Development of ballistic protective Scientific and Industrial Research fabric for soft armour Organization by the Ministry of Science & l Energy conservation in preparatory Technology, . The and finishing processes for natural activities of MANTRA are primarily aimed and synthetic fabrics through at the planned and healthy growth of the ultrasonic technique. decentralized sector. Local industries have benefited l SASMIRA is also receiving financial greatly from the R&D work successfully support to run two Powerloom Service pursued by MANTRA. Centres (PSC) at Bhiwandi for the benefit of the local weaving industry. During 2004-05, MANTRA completed two Forty-two students have enrolled for projects sponsored by the Ministry of the one-year certificate course on Textiles (MOT) through plan funds, namely weaving run by the centre. The centres also implemented the Group l Development of novel stack-disc Scheme (GIS) promoted friction units made from the by the Ministry of Textiles for the combination of polyurethane (soft) Bhiwandi weavers. They have also friction discs with other hard materials’ conducted 20 Seminars on current friction discs and quality evaluation of topics relating to textiles and relevant draw-textured yarns made therefrom. to powerloom weavers during the year under review. l Development of lightweight reusable protective fabrics from micro denier FINANCE synthetic filament yarns.

SASMIRA received a Non-Plan support of Further, the Government of Gujarat Rs.143.42 lakhs from the Government in sanctioned one R&D project in 2004-05 2004-05 for its recurring expenditure. In titled “ Development of Viscose and Lyocell addition, Rs.12.74 lakhs was released to fabrics” the Association during the year under review from the Plan fund for its ongoing MANTRA has a Computer Aided Design plan projects. The grant was curtailed by Centre and two Powerloom Service Centres 189 m i n i s t r y o f t e x t i l e s

(PSC) at Sachin and Pandesara. The appointed as consultant by the present activities of these units include Gujarat Energy Development Agency. training of weavers for quality fabric MANTRA got authorization to conduct production, design development on looms, the mandatory energy audit of all testing and technical service support for industrial units in Gujarat having a loom modernization activity, etc., for local contract demand more than 200 KVA. Weaver’ Co-operative Societies and l Dissemination of information was weavers in respective areas. PSC, Sachin conducted by MANTRA jointly in has been shifted to a new location in the association with the Department of GIDC area. During the year 2004- Textile Technology, Sarvajanik 05, income from CAD increased and the College of Engineering and textile industry greatly benefited from the Technology, Surat. MANTRA also Jacquard and Dobby designs prepared on exhibited 115 varieties of fabrics computers and the Card Punching facilities made in Surat in a catalogue at the by MANTRA provided to the weaving Golden Jubilee celebration of the industry. Surat Art Silk Cloth Manufacturers’ Association (SACMA). Activities l The Two Powerloom Service Centres (PSCs) functioning under the l MANTRA has been recognized as a management of MANTRA trained a “Schedule-I” Auditor by the Gujarat total number of 114 weavers and Pollution Control Board (GPCB). designers, covering 2567 mandays. MANTRA continued to perform well as an Environmental Auditor for MANTRA, in collaboration with M/s Kothari Schedule-I industries. Altogether, the Info Tech Ltd., has developed a software environmental audit of 18 units was for Computer Colour Matching and has also conducted during 2004. During the developed a huge data base in this field. year 2005, MANTRA conducted audit Also, MANTRA conducted a survey on of 20 units. In the Analytical “Waterjet looms” in and around Surat. An Instruments Laboratory, about 153 area-wise catalogue and other technical samples were tested. details has been compiled. This information l The Physical and Chemical Testing will be used in a study on product planning Laboratories of MANTRA continued and development. to perform well, and 9332 samples were tested. The total income INDIAN JUTE INDUSTRIES generated through Environmental RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (IJIRA), Audit, Consultancy, and Testing, etc., KOLKATA amounted to Rs.45.96 lakhs. The Indian Jute Industries Research l MANTRA also generated an income Association (IJIRA), Kolkata registered of Rs.1.38 lakhs by conducting a under West Bengal Societies Registration training course for 6 months titled Act, 1961, is an autonomous Co-operative “Synthetic Textile Dyeing and Printing Research Organization mainly funded by Technology”, attended by 12 the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. IJIRA candidates. governed by a Council, headed by the l MANTRA expanded activities in the Chairman, assisted by the Vice Chairman field of Energy Conservation. It was and 24 members, drawn from the Industry, 190 a n n u a l r e p o r t 2 0 0 5 - 0 6 the Government, Eminent Professionals Natural Fibres (Jute, etc.) based and others. The Director is appointed by the Industries in North Eastern Region. IJIRA Council and is the Principal Executive Powerloom Service Centre (PSC) is Officer of the Association exercising general rendering services to decentralized power of supervision and coordination of Powerloom Units of Assam for improvement overall activities of the Association and is in productivity. The Handicraft sector is also assisted by a Secretary-cum-Financial getting benefit through R&D works of IJIRA. Controller. There are nine technical divisions and each division is supervised IJIRA has three Regional Centres at by a Head or Group Leader. Shantipur (West Bengal), Guwahati (Assam) and Vizianagram (Andhra The objectives of IJIRA are: Pradesh). l To promote research and other RESEARCH ASSOCIATION scientific work connected with the (WRA), THANE jute trade and industries allied with or accessory thereto; The Wool Research Association (WRA), Thane, was established and registered l To establish and maintain under the Societies Registration Act 1860 laboratories and faster education of in October 1963. It is engaged in various people engaged in or likely to be activities, necessary for the technological engaged in the said trade and up-gradation of the Indian Woollen Industry, industry; and which include research and development l To examine and publish information work, special training programme, regarding the nature and merits of educational activities, foreign delegations’ inventions, improvements materials visits, workshops and paper presentations and designs connected with the said at national and international level. It has trades of industries. become the Associate Member of International Wool Textile Organization The R&D activities and technology transfer (IWTO), Brussels, Belgium. programmes of IJIRA have helped improve the productivity, product quality and cost Wool Research Association, Thane at viability of the organized jute mills and also present is organized under the following five the SMEs in the jute sector. departments - (i) Quality Test House - ISO 9001-2000 certified (ii) Chemical Besides taking care of the persistent Processing Laboratory (iii) Eco Testing & problems of organized and decentralized Analytical Labotatory (iv) Textile Designing jute sectors, IJIRA is currently engaged in (CAD-CAM)-Woven & Knitted (v) Yarn & R&D projects such as (i) E-Library on Jute, Fabric Manufacturing labs. (ii) Wet Spinning Technology Services and (iii) Development of Ramie-based products During the current year the following etc. activities were undertaken by the Wool Research Association IJIRA has also set up its North Eastern Regional Centre in Assam at Guwahati. The ON-GOING RESEARCH PROJECTS Ministry of Textiles has sanctioned the necessary budgetary provision for North l Two Wool/Silk Projects jointly with Eastern Regional Centre & Promotion of Central Silk Board: 191 m i n i s t r y o f t e x t i l e s

a. Developing Quality Spun yarn formal Post Graduate Diploma Courses on Eri Silk/wool blend and its recognized by Directorate of Technical products Education, Government of Maharashtra in the disciplines of Wool Textile Technology b. To develop suitable machinery and Ecological & Instrumental Chemical for spinning of Eri Silk and its Analysis. The following certificate & post blends for cottage industry graduate courses are being offered at l Deccani Wool Project for creation of WRA. a facility center at Ranebennur by Sheep & Wool l Ecological & Instrumental Chemical Development Corporation, Analysis for application in Textiles, Bangalore. dyes, Pharmaceuticals, Pesticides and Allied Industries. l Project for setting up of Shawl finishing and Dyeing Centre at Kullu l Textile Testing & Quality Control for by Bhuttico. Testing techniques, testing standards, interpretation results, selecting of an l Introduction of Indian cross breed fine instrument, etc. for woolen khadi products like shawls, lohies etc. by Khadi & Village l Computer Aided Textile Designing for Industries Commission, Mumbai. Dobby, Jacquard, Carpet, Printing, Embroidery, . l Project for setting up and making fully l functional the Dehairing Wool Textile Technology Available in 4 Disciplines each of three months Plant at Leh. duration. EDUCATION AND TRAINING l P.G. Courses Recognized by Board of Technical Education Maharashtra Wool Research Association has been for Wool Textile Technology for Post providing short-term courses and training Graduate Scholars leading to M.Sc. to persons sponsored by the industry and & Ph.D. degree. also individuals in the fields of Textile Testing l Post Graduate Research facilities for & Quality Control, Eco-Testing & Chemical Post Graduate Scholars leading to Analysis, Designing, etc. WRA has gone for M.Sc. & Ph.D degree.

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