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Claire Smith Heads Underground to Explore the Ancient Caves of Waitomo

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Claire Smith Heads Underground to Explore the Ancient Caves of Waitomo MCD EXPLORE What lies beneath … Words by Claire Smith, images by Claire Smith and THL The visitor centre entrance Claire Smith heads underground to explore the ancient caves of Waitomo arlier this year, hubby and I managed to wrest our youngest teen off the Wi-Fi and head out of Auckland for a few days. Our Egood friends at RV Super Centre sorted us out with a four-berth Kea Breeze and the three of us travelled down to the Waikato to check out a destination I’ve wanted to visit for a good many years— the Waitomo Glowworm Caves. Okoroire Hot Springs SETTING UP CAMP Using the Campable app, we found stuck in the muddy bits and having to a great spot to stay just out of Tirau at sheepishly ask for help getting unstuck the Okoroire Hot Springs Hotel wasn’t a great start (and consequently campsite. At $25 per night, it offers involved spending a good part of the everything needed for a comfortable few next day washing off mud). nights, including powered motorhome sites, bathroom and kitchen facilities, and HEADING DOWN UNDER a restaurant next door at the hotel if you The Waitomo Caves lie about an don’t fancy cooking. hour south of Hamilton on Waitomo But best of all, they have hot springs. Village Road. There’s parking for And they are good! The three natural motorhomes, and we were lucky thermal pools proved the perfect antidote enough to find the perfect spot under after a long day of walking and exploring, a shady tree. and on a clear night, the stars above are The Glowworm Caves are spectacular. You forget how many there steeped in New Zealand history are when you live in the light-polluted city. having first been explored in 1887 A quick tip, though—don’t risk arriving by local Maori Chief, Tane Tinorau, after dark like we did (motorhoming 101, and English surveyor, Fred Mace. of course!). Getting your motorhome Although locals knew of the caves, Inside the glowworm grotto Three of Waitomo’s friendly guides 36 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations 37 MCD EXPLORE MCD EXPLORE they’re a light source and trapping them in the sticky lines they hang Find more beneath them. destinations online at DOWN THE SPIRAL OF nzmcd.co.nz RUAKURI The Glowworm Caves is just one of the three incredible caves waiting to be explored at Waitomo. Aranui Cave is home to New Zealand’s cave weta and apparently has beautiful formations that are a sight to behold. The other is the Ruakuri Cave, which we chose to explore after a coffee and a bite to eat at the Waitomo The spiral entrance at Ruakuri Caves Cafe. The Ruakuri Cave—whose name stems from a Maori legend involving the unfortunate demise of two wild dogs (rua Waitomo meaning two, kuri meaning dog)—was Glowworms discovered around 400 years ago and takes visitors through an incredible 1.6km of caverns, past underground streams and waterfalls and magnificent rock formations that are simply beautiful. The caves are accessed by an impressive spiral entrance, which winds its way down from the surface to the subterranean depths, reminiscent of something from Dr Evil’s lair. I’m no geology expert or even an enthusiast, but it was hard not to be impressed by Ruakuri’s formations. And the further you go, the more impressive they become. Ruakuri Cave Our tour guide told the story of the cave’s intriguing history including why the Cathedral Cave spiral entranceway was built away from the Deep within the caves Ruakuri’s ancient stalactites original entrance, which was used as a burial ground and is Inside tips considered to be an extremely as they occasionally do in these parts. they’d never explored them until Tane THE STARS OF THE SHOW Glowworm Caves sacred site. and Fred headed underground. And what My mind was put at rest though when The first part of the cave, known as • The Glowworm Cave tour takes around Many visitors to the cave a discovery they made—a glowworm our tour guide reassured the group that The Cathedral, is an awe-inspiring cavern 45 minutes with tours leaving every 15 describe the experience as spiritual grotto illuminated by the tiny bright lights the caves were completely safe. Even world-renowned for its purity of minutes or so. and I concur. New Zealand has of thousands of glowworms. during the recent earthquakes that acoustics, attracting many famous • Photography is strictly forbidden, as precious few places that offer such Stepping into the caves is a little like rocked the region, the caves’ precise singers including Dame Kiri Te Kanawa to is touching any of the rock formations. richness of history and a give a real going back in time. And little wonder, monitors remained unmoved. perform there. • The tours can get quite busy so plan sense of the awe and power that given they were formed more than 30 Carl Fischer, Waitomo’s environmental From here, we headed down to board around non-peak times if possible. lies hidden beneath terra firma. million years ago. Ancient stalactites officer, explains that geologists believe the boat ride that would take us through With glowworms aplenty hang from slabs of sparkling limestone, the effects of earthquakes are less in the Glowworm Grotto. Unfortunately, Ruakuri Caves throughout the cave, combined with inching their way down to stalagmite caves than on the surface. “The seismic due to recent flooding, our boat trip • The Ruakuri Cave is accessed by a the abundance of awesome photo counterparts at the virtually standstill rate waves that would have the most potential was restricted to a shortened version, shuttle van from the main Waitomo Cave backdrops (photos are allowed but of around 10cm every thousand years. to cause damage to caves (S waves) but we were still able to enjoy the centre. Buy your ticket at the main only in certain areas), along with the actually do very little because they are breathtaking marvel of thousands upon window and you’ll be shown where to relatively small tour numbers (just 15 SAFETY FIRST unable to travel through the air (or water) thousands of white-blue lights shining wait for the shuttle. on our visit), the Ruakuri Cave was by The caves were bustling with tourists in the cave,” he says. like stars against the total blackness of • The tour takes around two hours in total. far my favourite of the two. on the day we visited, and I must admit “The force arrives at the cave wall, the cave ceiling above. • Those looking for a little more adventure The cave is also accessible I felt an unexpected sense of displaces the air, and is absorbed with The glowworms at Waitomo, which can give black-water rafting a go. There for wheelchairs and pushchairs claustrophobia the minute I entered the relatively little effect. In some instances, are unique to New Zealand, are tiny are three guided black-water rafting and the tour guides do a great job cave. With huge pointy rocks hanging caves could be safer than above ground larvae that grow into a mosquito-like options to choose from and each of ensuring every member of the overhead, I started to wonder what the during an earthquake.” insect. They use their glow to attract promises a safe but exhilarating ride. tour comes away feeling richer for result might be if an earthquake struck, Phew, good to know! food—tricking other insects into thinking • Photography is allowed in some parts the experience. of the cave. 38 Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations Motorhomes Caravans & Destinations 39.
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