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Background to the Redevelopment of Ruakuri Cave, Waitomo, New Zealand

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Background to the Redevelopment of Ruakuri Cave, Waitomo, New Zealand Cave and Karst Management in Australasia 16 Proceedings of the 16th ACKMA Conference, Westport, NZ, 2005 Background to the redevelopment of Ruakuri Cave, Waitomo, New Zealand Greg Martin Waikato Conservator, Department of Conservation Private Bag 3072, Hamilton, New Zealand, [email protected] The Ruakuri Cave is situated in the Ruakuri The exterior faces of the limestone adjacent to Scenic Reserve, a 130 hectare block of lowland these burial caves is coloured with kokowai which podocarp forest about 3 km southwest of the is still clearly visible today. The marking was Waitomo Glowworm Caves. The reserve is a used to indicate a sacred burial site. The red ochre “showcase” area for the Waikato Conservancy of colouring was made from deeply weathered or the Department of Conservation. burnt limestone which was dried and powdered and mixed with shark oil. Ruakuri Cave was discovered c.1900, subsequent to the discovery of the Waitomo Glowworm Cave Another significant and unusual feature of this site in 1887, and opened as a tourist cave by James is the presence of some large karaka trees at the Holden senior, a local landholder. In 1904 the old entrance to the cave and immediately below Government considered the cave to be a valuable the burial caves. These trees are large and likely visitor and tourism resource and consequently to be centuries old. moved to protect the land under the Scenery It is evident that they have been planted as they Preservation Act instructing that the Cave be prefer a coastal habitat and are a long way from surveyed and reserved for the public good. The the coast in this location. Today the karaka survey was carried out in 1905, however the seedlings germinate beneath the trees but they surveyor at the time only captured the entrance of rarely grow more than 200mm high and do not the cave and some 60 metres of passage within the survive in this sub-optimal habitat. cave under his definition of the reserve. As a consequence much of the cave remained under the The traditions of the local Maori people suggest adjoining public road and the adjacent private that the plantings were made for two reasons. freehold land owned by the Holden family. Firstly to grow the trees close to the cliff face to provide access to the burial caves and secondly as At that time history records that there was a source of food for the tupuna, the spirits of the mummified body of a Maori woman with red hair ancestral beings or koiwi placed in the burial in a small alcove at the bottom of the escarpment caves or urupa. The karaka produces a very at the entrance to the Ruakuri Cave. It seems that fibrous and fleshy berry which is an attractive early visitors started to interfere with these food source for some birds such as kereru remains and so James Holden senior removed the (woodpigeon). However, it is highly toxic to body from the site and burnt it (presumably with human beings unless prepared correctly in the local consultation and sanction). traditional way which involves immersion for several days in flowing water to leach out the toxicity. Waahi Tapu Site About ten years ago, some remains from the The traditional entrance to Ruakuri Cave was a burial cave were dislodged, probably after an site that had provided shelter for the early Maori intense storm event, and fell to the entrance area inhabitants of this land. High up on the of the tourist cave. These remains (koiwi) were escarpment above the original tourist cave re-interred at another location by kaumatua entrance are a number of smaller caves and open (elders) of the local Maori people. caverns in the limestone. These caves were used as burial caves and it was known that the body of These are but some of the traditional, spiritual and Tanetinorau, a local chief, and other members of cultural aspects that make this a significant waahi his family were placed in the burial caves. tapu site. Cave and Karst Management in Australasia 16 Proceedings of the 16th ACKMA Conference, Westport, NZ, 2005 Recent History Pressure on the Department of Conservation to see the Ruakuri Cave re-opened for tourism In February 1988 Jimmy Holden, the adjacent continued throughout this period from the landowner, placed a trespass notice in the cave at community and local businesses. In April 1992, the position he believed was the underground the Department drew a team together to prepare boundary of his property. He then entered plans for the recognition and protection of the negotiations seeking compensation from the waahi tapu site for presentation to Hapu Trusts, Government entity, the Tourist Hotel Corporation, now the representatives of the wider Maori family who were operating the cave. The Tourist Hotel members with a traditional interest and Corporation obtained legal advice and decided to connection with these lands. close the cave for tourism while negotiations continued. The traditional tourist cave entrance Some plans were prepared by the Department’s has remained closed to this day. staff with a concept that involved the creation of a board walk and deck at the entrance to the cave. Subsequent to the closure of the entrance, the This concept was to provide a gathering place for traditional Maori land owners sought advice and visitors where their feet could be elevated off the information about the site. On 28 September sacred ground. It was envisaged that appropriate 1989, an archaeological investigation was carried protocols such as karakia (prayer) could be out on an ash pit site near the entrance to the cave observed before visitors commenced the tour of at the request of the New Zealand Historic Places the cave. A memorial plinth or appropriate plaque Trust. This work was carried out by the was also envisaged in this location. Department of Conservation’s archaeologist. The excavation found that the ash pit contained the This concept was presented to the Hapu Trusts jaw bones of a minimum of 20 kiore (Polynesian and debated and discussed at some length. rat) and that the site was estimated to be between Reverend Canon Rua Anderson, a respected and 200 – 400 years old. The kiore was an early senior kaumatua and tribal spokesperson, found protein food source for Maori. The rats were that the concept did not sit comfortably with him encased in clay and baked on the fire. When the and he advised his people accordingly. This site clay case was broken open and peeled back it was of great spiritual significance and sacredness revealed the flesh for eating. The jaw bones, and it needed to be respected and given sanctity as being the strongest part of a kiore skeleton, have the significant burial site for his families’ been preserved from major decay in the ash pit forebears. Arising from those deliberations, the site. Department of Conservation agreed to re-position the track through the reserve, away from the On 3 May 1991, the New Zealand Historic Places traditional Ruakuri Cave entrance and the waahi Trust (Pouhere Taonga) declared the land at the tapu site. The old track has now completely entrance to Ruakuri Cave to be a traditional site overgrown and the entrance to the cave has been under Section 50 of the Historic Places Trust act replanted and obscured from view. 1990. Site meetings were held with Canon Rua The Department of Conservation received control Anderson to determine the physical extent of the of the Ruakuri Caves and Bush Scenic Reserve in waahi tapu and pegs were placed in the ground to 1991 following the sale of the Tourist Hotel facilitate a survey of the land involved. Corporation as part of the Government’s sale of Traditionally this site would have been simply a State Owned Enterprises. The proposed sale “known respected place” but a land survey was activated the mediation of a land claim (WAI 51) required to enable the area to be demarcated and under the Waitangi Tribunal by local Maori for a declared as a Maori Reservation and vested in the number of sites in the area, including part of the local Maori people as a Waahi Tapu site. Waitomo Glowworm Caves and some land in the Waitomo Village including the Waitomo Hotel and the Waitomo Domain. The consequent Development of a new Cave Entrance to mediated settlement of this claim was the first of its type in New Zealand and it took effect from 14 Ruakuri June 1990. As the future of the Waahi Tapu site and its ultimate land status was being determined, planning and work was occurring simultaneously Cave and Karst Management in Australasia 16 Proceedings of the 16th ACKMA Conference, Westport, NZ, 2005 on the proposition of creating a new tourist the cave floor to monitor and detect any falling entrance to Ruakuri Cave. This work, which particles or speleothem fragments. An ultrasonic initially focussed on the Rimrock passage lying anemometer was positioned to detect any changes beneath Holden property, ended up evaluating the in the velocity or direction of airflow patterns; engineering options for developing an entrance speleothems in the main passage adjacent to the known as “The Drum Entrance” - so named as it pipe thrusting break-through zone were surveyed, was formed by the placement of several 44 gallon measured and recorded as part of the total drums end to end with the bottoms cut out to monitoring package. Advice and review of the provide an access route. This structure had been monitoring programme throughout the project was excavated and installed by cavers after the provided through an independent assessment and discovery of a high level passage above the main evaluation by Professor Paul Williams of the streamway in 1968.
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