PARIS WWD MILESTONES COLLECTIONS LANVIN, NINA RICCI, CHLOE RICK OWENS AND MORE. AT 60 PAGES 6 TO 10.

LAUNCHING ANOTHER FORMAT H&M Gets Ready For Other Stories By ALEX WYNNE

PARIS — Despite disappointing third-quarter results, fashion behemoth Hennes & Mauritz AB is ramping up store expansion and writing a new chapter with & Other Stories, its new brand set to launch next year. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY On Thursday, the Swedish retailer said it would launch the concept, aimed at fashion-conscious WWD women with a “personal look,” with eight to 10 stores in Europe’s style capitals. “We’re focusing on the whole look. [For] women creating their look, the shoes, the bag and the neck- lace are just as important as the ready-to-wear,” Samuel Fernström, head of & Other Stories, said in an exclusive interview with WWD. A Ta le The stores, which will average 7,500 square feet in size, are to offer a wide range of categories and prices, including a large shoe and handbag offer, jewelry, accessories, cosmetics, lingerie and rtw, with “quality” and “attention to detail” being key, Of Two according to Fernström. “We have different design teams focusing on differ- ent parts of the collection,” he said. The creative de- partment for & Other Stories is based largely in Paris, and is led by head of design Anna Teurnell, although a second, smaller team is based in Stockholm. Tex t u res “Paris brings a tomboy look with poetic hints Nicolas Ghesquière sent out a — tough yet feminine designs, while our atelier in Stockholm is responsible for a minimalistic touch, beautiful Balenciaga collection, some raw edges, sensuality and sharp tailoring,” steering intricate cuts and fabrics Teurnell explained. Prices for & Other Stories “will start where H&M into an accessibly high-chic stops,” the company’s head of investor relations Nils world. The tailoring was at times Vinge said during a conference call Thursday. masculine, other times feminine, They will nevertheless show a wider spread than H&M’s high-end concept COS, starting at 7 euros, or while some surface details had $9 at current exchange, for certain cosmetics, jewelry nearly a trompe l’oeil effect. and footwear items, and 15 euros, or $19, for rtw. The Here, Ghesquière’s multilayered most expensive products will cost around 195 euros, embroidered skirt — made to or $251, for shoes or handbags and 245 euros, or $315, look like tweed — paired with a SEE PAGE 4 structured shirt in ladylike lace. Yohji O the Cuff

By AMANDA KAISER

TOKYO — Yohji Yamamoto doesn’t believe in runway rehearsals. “I choose models, the models meet the clothing backstage, the very first moment. It’s a kind of love romance. She likes the clothes, the clothing likes her,” he reasoned during an interview at his headquarters here in a warehouse district on the southern side of the city, just more than a week before his Paris runway show today. Known for his rebellious streak, the Japanese designer takes a similarly direct approach to conversation, speaking in English — highly unusual among the Tokyo design community. That doesn’t mean he’s not thoughtful — quite the contrary. He’s pensive and adept at punctuating answers to questions with pregnant pauses and the odd sideward glance — so much so that it can be tricky to discern whether he’s done with SPRING 2013 a response or still lingering in thought midreply. COLLECTIONS Yamamoto doesn’t hold back on a broad range of subjects. He’s no fan of the fast-fashion industry, for instance, nor what he sees as younger generations’ overreliance on Internet technology. He’s philosophical PARIS on Japan and China’s need to work together despite current political tensions, critical of Japan’s failure to fully atone for wartime aggressions, and he bemoans a lack of leadership in his country and its failure to embrace English as the international language of business. And for those wondering, the 68-year-old designer doesn’t picture himself retiring anytime soon. He would PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 14 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 WWD.COM BEAUTY BEAT Markwins Acquires Physicians Formula THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD channels. Combining the re- than 60 countries. Physicians has By MOLLY PRIOR sources and experience of both been eyeing international expan- companies will strengthen the sion for some time, but has moved Outside the THE MASS MARKET MAY combined portfolio of brands.” slowly on that front. Paris shows. soon have a new powerhouse Physicians brings a more Last year, it expanded be- in the beauty aisle: a company premium offering to Markwins’ yond North America to Mexico, that combines the strength of mass-market cosmetics busi- Turkey, Trinidad, El Salvador and Markwins International Corp.’s ness, which includes Wet ‘n’ Wild Panama. During an interview with value offering with Physicians and value-price kits under its WWD earlier this year, Jackel said Formula’s premium-priced brand home brands, such as The Color Physicians’ international busi- of problem-solution cosmetics. Workshop, and licenses, includ- ness accounts for 13 percent of the The two companies have ing Barbie and Disney Princess. company’s sales, which in 2011 to- signed a definitive merger agree- In addition to creating a new taled $80.9 million. She added that ment under which Markwins will price tier, Physicians’ also offers a growth in Latin America would acquire outstanding shares of well-developed sales and market- continue be a focus in 2012, and Physicians’ common stock for $4.90 ing team in the U.S. market, said that Europe was next on deck for DABROWSKI a share, or nearly $75 million. retailers who nodded to Jackel’s the company. With Markwins as

That’s a 15.3 percent premium prowess as product developer. a parent company, Physicians’ KUBA to an offer that Physicians re- Markwins, for its part, offers a international footprint could ex- BY ceived in August from the private global distribution and manufac- pand much more rapidly, said in- PHOTO equity firm Swander Pace Capital turing network. Markwins also dustry observers. of $4.25 a share, or about $65 mil- is riding high on the growth of “Physicians is a good trade- Hennes & Mauritz AB, lion, which the company initially Wet ‘n’ Wild. The brand’s sales mark, maybe it could translate to despite disappointing third-quarter results, is ramping up store expansion and writing a new accepted. Physicians is now re- have surged 26.3 percent year-to- China and other markets,” said PAGE 1 quired to pay a termination fee date, and grown double digits for industry consultant Allan Mottus. chapter with its new brand, & Other Stories. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS of nearly $1.3 million to Swander. the past 22 months, said George. Yohji Yamamoto Physicians’ board unani- Markwins’ brands are sold in more FROM FAYE BROOKMAN sat down for an interview at his Tokyo headquarters on the southern side of the city, just over a mously approved the agreement PAGE 1 with Markwins, and plans to week before today’s Paris runway show. recommend that shareholders Markwins International Corp. is to acquire Physicians vote in favor of the deal, which PAGE 2 is expected to close later this Formula Holding Inc. for nearly $75 million. year. Physicians and Markwins Andrea Hansen, are based about 10 miles apart the former chief executive officer of Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry, has been named president of in Southern California, in Azusa PAGE 4 and City of Industry, respective- Bochic Group Inc. ly. The Physicians management Nike Inc. team will remain intact and as- saw first-quarter income fall as increased costs hurt the bottom line. PAGE 4 sume senior leadership posts at Markwins said Bill George, pres- The new Trussardi ident and chief operating officer men’s eau de toilette, Trussardi My of Markwins. He added, “We have Land, which hits stores at the end of September, is a love letter to Milan. PAGE 12 no plans to make material chang- es in management” or staff. Sheryl Crow George said, “We’ve long is the cover girl for Bloomingdale’s Pink Book arriving in mailboxes starting Monday, which kicks off the been admirers of the brand.… PAGE 12 The company brings a rich, long- store’s October campaign to fight breast cancer. standing history of innovative The front-row scene beauty solutions, a deep man- at Paris Fashion Week heated up Thursday as the jet set started settling into those prime agement team, and it is — like PAGE 13 Markwins — a high-growth orga- seats. nization that sees great hope in Deborah Needleman international [expansion].” was named Sally Singer’s successor Physicians chairwoman and as editor in chief of T: The New York Times Style Magazine on Thursday. PAGE 13 chief executive officer Ingrid Jackel stated, “Markwins and Kristen Stewart, Physicians Formula sell non- who sat front row at Balenciaga’s show competing brands in similar Thursday morning, is hoping her next film project will be a screen adaptation of “Lie Down in Darkness.” PAGE 15 Stella McCartney Sales, Profits Climb ON WWD.COM THEY ARE WEARING: Off the runways and onto the officer, said growth in 2011 came from all product sidewalks and streets for some of the best looks from Paris By SAMANTHA CONTI categories and from retail and wholesale sales. “It’s Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com/fashion-news. been very balanced,” he said. LONDON — Sales and profits at Stella McCartney He added the brand is “less China-driven” than Ltd. are on the rise as the company continues to ex- some of its peers, because it still has a very small CORRECTION pand its retail footprint worldwide. presence in the region. In August, Stella McCartney Paris Fashion Week is held at venues throughout the city. This In the fiscal year ended Dec. 31, sales at Stella opened its first directly operated store in China at information was incorrect in a caption on page 8, Wednesday. McCartney Ltd. advanced 19 percent to 21 million Réel Mall in Shanghai. pounds, or $33.6 million, while At the end of December, a sec- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS profits climbed 0.5 percent to Stella ond Chinese store — at Beijing’s 2.9 million pounds, or $4.6 mil- new Parkview Green shopping [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. McCartney WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. lion, according to documents mall — is set to open. Lukoff COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. filed at Companies House, the said the unit will be a two-story VOLUME 204, NO. 67. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, official registrar of firms based “statement store” spanning 3,500 March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine in the U.K. square feet. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, All figures have been convert- The momentum generated in Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, ed to dollars at average exchange 2011 has continued into the cur- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver rates for the 12-month period. rent fiscal year, he added. “We’re Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Stella McCartney Ltd. is the still growing healthily, although Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. U.K. legal entity within the we’re remaining vigilant about Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or worldwide business, which is the external environment. There inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. 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For all request and the brand’s two London brand’s second stand-alone fra- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at stores, on Bruton Street and on grance, will launch in the U.S. at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Fulham Road. Stella McCartney is jointly owned by Sephora next week. McCartney will do a personal we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at the designer and PPR. appearance in December to support the launch. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED The figures reported do not take into account The brand currently has 20 freestanding stores ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER wholesale sales or turnover from the brand’s di- and 25 shops-in-shop worldwide, and Lukoff said UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR rectly operated stores outside the U.K. more retail expansion is in the pipeline for 2013, DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A Frederick Lukoff, president and chief executive although he declined to provide details. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. edgy, provocative, image-maker, stylist, carine roitfeld edits her signature look into a collection of colours and tools inspired by her aesthetic.

maccosmetics.com/carine 4 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 WWD.COM ▼ Samuel Fernström, head of & Other Stories, with head of design Anna Teurnell in their Paris design studio.

Nike Inc. Net Slips As Cost Increases Weigh On Margins

By VICKI M. YOUNG

NIKE INC. SAW first-quarter income fall as increased costs hurt the bottom line. For the three months ended Aug. 31, the company said net income fell 12 percent to $567 million, or $1.23 a diluted share, ▲ A glimpse of the mood of its new concept, & Other Stories. from $645 million, or $1.39, a year ago. The company had higher selling, general and administrative expenses for the quarter, as well as a higher tax rate of 27.5 percent ver- H&M Telling a New Story sus 24.3 percent last year. Revenues rose 10 percent to $6.67 billion from $6.08 billion. Nike brand revenues {Continued from page one} initiatives…more than offset the benefit of easing cotton rose 16 percent, with growth in all key cat- for a leather jacket, for example. prices,” Bernstein’s analysts noted. egories and every geography except Japan, Besides the new concept, H&M said it was ramping up The firm cited improved sales in the Sept. 1 to 25 period, the company said. expansion of existing banners for the current fiscal year to increasing 14 percent in local currency terms, following a 4 The firm said gross margin for the quarter 300 stores, up from the 275 previously announced, with a percent decrease in August. slipped to 43.5 percent from 44.3 percent. focus on China and the U.S. Plans for 2013 call for the first H&M confirmed previously reported sales figures for the Calling the first-quarter results a “solid H&M store in South America, in Santiago, Chile, and 10 to third quarter, from June 1 to Aug. 31, of 33.6 billion Swedish start to the year,” Mark Parker, president and 15 percent net store growth worldwide. chief executive officer, told Wall Street ana- The group has also pushed back the intro- lysts in a conference call after the markets duction of its U.S. e-commerce site for the third closed that “SG&A expenses were higher, up time. Instead of going live this fall, the launch is 18 percent, as we invested in a remarkable now scheduled for summer 2013. array of product innovations and inspiring H&M said this move was a result of its increas- moments over the summer of sports.” ing focus on other online markets, meaning it Parker was referring in part to what needs more time for the U.S. portal. “It’s what’s he called the “U.S. Open of surfing at best for H&M in total, and for the long term,” Huntington Beach [Calif.], as well as the said Vinge, who would not be drawn on Web store Summer Olympics in London.” rollout plans for specific countries. The retailer He also said the company is investing for currently offers e-commerce in eight markets, in growth in China. “By any objective measure, which it plans to launch a mobile store for smart- we’re the undeniable leader for our industry phones and tablets next spring. in China. Our brand is the most connected As of Aug. 31, the company operated 2,629 and we deliver the innovative products con- stores, of which 2,494 were under its core concept, sumers want. We don’t take our leadership while 55 were COS units, 55 Monki branches, 21 position for granted, and we know we have to Weekday banners and four Cheap Monday stores. earn it every day and we do. I feel very good H&M’s expansion comes at a cost. Increased with our competitive position in China, and investments, on top of unseasonal weather, cur- I’m confident in the enormous potential for rency effects and cost inflation, dampened the our business in this market,” he said. group’s third-quarter figures. Profits rose only In May, the company said it was divesting 0.9 percent after financial items to 4.9 billion its Cole Haan and Umbro businesses. Swedish kroner, or $586.5 million. North American sales contributed to the The retailer noted that strong appreciation of the bulk of the company’s revenues, with the Swedish kroner against the euro led to a 200 million division up 23 percent to $2.71 billion from kroner, or $23 million, negative impact for the period. $2.2 billion. While footwear sales rose 20 All dollar rates are calculated at average ex- percent to $1.73 billion, it was apparel sales change rates for the period concerned. that saw the biggest gain at a 26 percent The results were 11.4 percent below con- increase to $795 million. Sales in Western sensus estimates, analysts Jamie Merriman, Europe fell 5 percent to $1.17 billion from Anthony Sleeman and Richard Wielechowski $1.23 billion. Footwear sales fell 2 percent to from Bernstein Research noted. $714 million, while apparel sales decreased Gross profit was 16.77 billion kroner, or $2.01 8 percent to $382 million. billion, up 16.7 percent compared to the prior-year period. kroner, or $4.9 billion, a 10 percent increase in local currency Gross margin fell to 58.2 percent, from 58.6 percent, notably terms and flat in comparable units compared with the prior- due to increased investments. year period. Revenues grew 25 percent in the U.S., 50 percent “Investments made up a larger proportion of sales than in Russia and 7 percent in the U.K. in local currencies. in the second quarter,” Vinge said. Shares in H&M closed down 5.8 percent to 232.20 “Cost inflation, primarily in Asia, and the strength of Swedish kroner, or $35.22, on the Stockholm Stock Exchange $6.67B the U.S. dollar, plus a stepped-up investment in long-term as markets reacted to the worse-than-expected results. FIRST-QUARTER REVENUES AT NIKE INC. Bochic Group Taps Andrea Hansen as President Sales in Central and Eastern Europe Andrea was attracted to Bochic because inched up 2 percent to $342 million. Sales of By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Hansen “there’s clarity in how they run the footwear slipped 1 percent to $178 million, two businesses.” while sales of apparel items rose 9 percent ANDREA HANSEN, the former chief As part of her first mandate, Hansen to $134 million. In Greater China, sales rose executive officer of Ivanka Trump will take meetings with editors in Paris, 8 percent to $572 million, with footwear sales Fine Jewelry, has been named presi- and attend Bochic’s presentation there. showing gains of 13 percent to $356 million dent of Bochic Group Inc. She added that she plans to show the and apparel sales rising 1 percent to $178 Before departing for Paris Fashion brand at New York Fashion Week in million. In Japan, sales fell 6 percent to $183 Week Thursday, Hansen told WWD 2013 — around the same time the com- million. Footwear sales were up 3 percent to that the post is newly created, and pany will start ramping up production $106 million as apparel sales fell 15 percent she will help grow the company’s of its namesake line and put growth ob- to $61 million. The emerging markets saw a namesake fine jewelry brand, as well jectives in place for both divisions. sales increase of 8 percent to $867 million, as Miriam Salat, its high-end fashion “After seven years of sustained with footwear sales up 7 percent to $604 mil- jewelry line. growth that firmly established our lion and apparel sales increasing 16 percent “I have always admired what David brands both domestically and interna- to $211 million. has done for Bochic,” she said, referring tionally, we’re entering a new phase As of the end of the quarter, worldwide to the brand’s cofounder, David Joseph. with exciting opportunities that will futures orders for Nike brand athletic foot- “David had called me years ago, and we demand strong leadership on all lev- wear and apparel scheduled for delivery started talking shop. There’s a lot of de- els,” said Joseph, who started the from September through January totaled mand for the jewelry.” New York-based company with his $8.9 billion. That represents a 6 percent Hansen declined to comment on desire to spend more time with her wife, Miriam Salat, in 2004. Salat sub- gain compared with orders for the same pe- how long the move was in the works. family at the time as a reason for sequently launched her own brand, riod a year ago. She left Ivanka Trump in June after her departure. which is known for colorful stackable Shares of Nike fell 3.2 percent to $92.95 in three years on the job, and cited the She did, however, offer that she resin bangle bracelets. after-hours trading. the t list: Alasdair Mclellan Anton Corbijn Cass Bird Ed Templeton Hedi Slimane John Baldessari Mark Carrasquillo Mikael Jansson Peter Lindbergh Peter Philips Orlando Pita Richard Burbridge Robert Polidori Terry Richardson Venetia Scott

The New York Times Style Magazine Where else in the World Would You Want to be? stYle as onlY the neW York times can deliver it. to get on the list, contact seth rogin, vice President, advertising, at 212-556-1437, [email protected] or log on to nYtmediakit.com. nYtimes.com/tmagazine 6 WWD friday, september 28, 2012

Balenciaga Balenciaga Balenciaga Lanvin

will beckon from the retail hanger,“Try me; I’m sexy!” That PARIS COLLECTIONS Ghesquière did so exquisitely while playing to the theme of antiquity, via Cocteau’s “Testament d’Orphée” with a soupçon of the sculptor Janine Janet (she worked on Spring 2013 the film and moonlighted as the Rhoda Morgenstern of Thursday’s highlighTs included accessible chic aT her day, doing major pieces for Balenciaga’s and others’ balenciaga and a modern kind of sexy aT lanvin. windows), while incorporating specific structural conceits Balenciaga: Adieu, clunky construction, willing to explain from the archives, speaks to officewear! Bonjour, accessible the exact purpose for this seam Ghesquière’s brilliance. high chic! or that dart vis-à-vis the shape “An evocation of Nicolas Ghesquière resides of the garment. mythological drama,” in the more thoughtful reaches The fact that his knockout Ghesquière said during a of the fashion landscape. spring collection, though preview. He opened with a That’s not to say he’s a complicated in terms of cut bright white bra top over slim designer of intellectual fashion and fabric development, black pants, sans vulgarity. (in the old days of WWD, that looked more obviously He then moved into an meant clothes for insiders accessible — “simple,” to use exploration of static motion; that real people would hate) his own (inaccurate) word — with their voluptuous ruffled or that most designers work than his fall lineup, with its cascades, his black-and-white purely on instinct. Only that cumbersome sweater shapes, evening beauties combined Ghesquière seems to ponder could be mere seasonal fashion the sensuality of skin-baring more than most. Or maybe he’s trope. More likely, it was the movement with the strength

Giannoni Giovanni just more into discussing the result of a determination of substantial structure by nitty-gritty than most, talking to train the house codes delivered in a sturdy silk past his thematic references — both his own and the blend bonded to toile. Togas Photos to the intricate details of founder’s — onto clothes that looked like hanky-hemmed

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Lanvin Lanvin Lanvin

minis but were actually a modern kind of sexy for uncharacteristic gravitas — and shorts. Tailoring came a woman who likes to look a whole lot going on. Never a masculine — light-toned, like she didn’t try too hard to one-note guy, Elbaz prefers to strong-shouldered pantsuits look amazing, her pretense populate his runway with that — and feminine: a terrific secured by a remarkably increasingly rare sighting within modernist take on chichi in crafted dress. a single show: options. Here he what looked like tweeds but That, according to Elbaz, is funneled them through a Saint were actually multilayered the essence of design. “What Laurent-cum-Eighties lens, embroideries. Another is design anyway? What is coming up with arch tailoring; remarkable fabric: colorful, the definition of design?” he endless shoulder action; single leafy guipure embroidered waxed philosophic during a sleeves and half-jackets; sudden with a vinelike motif; from preview. “I think it’s how to bursts of glitz. Some of it looked even a short distance, one translate or not translate, how great. A sleeveless jacket with a might mistake it for leather. to transform one dimension single white lapel over pants had It was all intensely worked, to three dimensions, to take a a glamorous bravura; a pair of yet with the end result of piece of flat fabric and give it short skirts with jackets in black a fabulous lightness that a shape. You do it with darts, and white oozed chic. Other relinquished none of the you do it with volume, you do it tailored pieces, however, were strength of the Balenciaga with drape. That, for me, is the just too laborious. Elbaz was woman — accessible high chic work of design.” more consistent with softer looks of the highest order. The designer’s contemplative — a swimsuit series including mind-set put construction front some paired with skirts or Lanvin: If all’s well that ends and center in this collection, pants — and with his dresses. well, Alber Elbaz’s spring along with another motivation. Both structured and fluid LBDs For more show for Lanvin would have Because today, news of fashion looked great, even if cowboy coverage, see been a blockbuster. He closed and celebrity are so accessible, boots sometimes line-danced with a lineup of little satin Elbaz suggested, “The whole that greatness into left field. WWD.com/ shifts — each in different world has become like one Happily, Elbaz’s finale runway. vibrant colors coming and exhibitionist place. Every rocked, its feisty insouciance going — the two joined by woman I know wants to look like belying the intense surprise side panels of flashy a star.” He seemed determined construction of what seemed beaded embroideries. The to facilitate realization of that like little nothing dresses — effect was chic and young, goal, which at times made for and fabulously so.

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Nina Ricci: From the ceiling of the Nina Ricci Rick Owens big tent in the Tuileries came a tender squall of white confetti that covered the Nina Ricci runway in a blanket of petals. With the audience tranquilized and set for another chapter in Peter Copping’s precious storybook romance, the designer had them hoodwinked. The show opener — a black jacket and skirt with a fishnet top accessorized with a harness — was a shock to the system. Lest anyone forget, Copping knows the other side. Now an 18-year, full-time Parisian, he grew up in England, land of the sartorially rebellious, home of club kids and girls who can live with a little dirt under their fingernails. During a preview, Copping said he wanted to put an English slant on the French house. “Paris fashion has many things,” he said. “It’s elegant, chic, but it doesn’t have an element of street culture.” The bones of Copping’s living doll aesthetic stayed with bias- cut dresses, prim skirts and cardigans cut from the finest fabrics. But these fancy ladies have been to a party. Fishnet was recurring, not only on hosiery but also worked into the print of a transparent trench, the open weave of a fitted sweater and up the back of skinny pants. Traditional French tropes, such as polka dots, point d’esprit and tweed suits, were given the loud, London spirit, the latter shown in glowing iridescents. Spunky and unexpected though it was, there was a lingering feeling that Copping was under pressure to get in on the sexy grit that seems to sell. If that was the case, he has to be careful not to go too far. Still, he rose to the challenge, framing the subversive swinging elements in femininity and glamour.

Rick Owens: Shortly before the first model stepped out at Rick Owens, suds started trickling down the tilted glass backdrop. They slowly formed a cloudlike mass on the concrete floor, signaling an important clue: Owens, who has a proclivity for darkness, was channeling a lighter spirit. The result was nothing short of terrific. The lineup had nuances of the secessionist art movement, from to the models’ graphically chopped hair to the silhouettes, some of which featured voluminous tops coming together below the waist over slim, floor-length skirts or dresses. He set the mood from the first few looks, including several plasticlike materials, such as a cool transparent raincoat and a shimmering off-the-shoulder number that loosely read “shower curtain” (perfect for the suds). More structured sleeveless jackets teamed with formfitting skirts underscored Owens’ turn- of-the-century sensibility — their graphic, architectural patterns demonstrating his artful yet light touch. The soft color palette was just as lovely, ranging mostly from nudes to grays, with a few black looks. He even ventured into surface decoration — not a familiar area to him. This being WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 9 WWD.COM

Balmain Carven Mugler

FOR MORE SPRING 2013 COVERAGE, SEE COLLECTIONS WWD.com/ PARIS runway. GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Owens, there was no excessive aggressive sexuality that often sportswear-driven mélange After the show, the designer For the show, Gaga, billed as beading and sequin work in went over the top. that has gripped the advanced said he had imagined the “musical director,” allowed her sight. Instead, he maintained Backstage before the show, contemporary market, Carven adventurous spirit of a woman unreleased single “Cake” to be a subtle hand with tiny knots Rousteing said he was going has become a hot resource traveling to new frontiers in mixed into the soundtrack. on a sleeveless leather jacket for a “Latin sensuality,” citing for elite retailers. Guillaume the 20th century. “I thought Formichetti and designer and a matte gold disk closure Cuba and singer Sade among Henry’s excellent spring about being delicate in a tough Sebastian Peigne also put the on a languid silver metallic inspirations. collection for the label should environment,” he said, noting clothes in a broader context coat and matching dress. It was While there is no denying keep the stores clamoring. the fabrics: Panama canvases, than in the past. The main both poetic and ultrafeminine that the young designer’s He laced his signature a thick waffled material, and silhouette was hourglass: — think a modern-day muse workmanship was exquisite, i.e. blend of retro elements — the woven silk and linen that looked nipped-waist with short, flared to Gustav Klimt. And just like the crystal beading on jackets trim Seventies shoulder line like tweed. If it appeared that skirts or skirt-shorts hybrids, the frothy concoction that had and the elaborate basket and exaggerated collar; the Henry was anticipating a chilly fitted through the body with amassed on set by the show’s weaves for minidresses, it often bell shapes of Sixties couture, spring, the heft enhanced wide shoulders. Press notes finale, the overall effect was left heads spinning. here modified for the modern the silhouettes’ sophisticated said Formichetti had spent heavenly. Rousteing amped up the wearer — with the inky colors volume and weight. the year traveling through volume for many looks. Some, and delicate curlicues of the equatorial regions, which Balmain: In just a few seasons, like the boxy jackets and Art Nouveau. Henry name- Mugler: Nicola Formichetti inspired a tropical motif Olivier Rousteing has dresses, had an awkward fit. checked architect Hector introduced his new handbag — orange and ruddy tones demonstrated a tendency Then there was the recurring Guimard, whose influence line for Mugler on his and slick, shiny treatments for ultrasexy silhouettes. harlequin motif, sometimes could be traced to the crafty spring runway. Handbags meant to evoke a heat wave. He continued the notion bedazzled in crystals. It had lacework, the inverted curve usually mean one thing — The plastified knife pleats on into spring with an early- limited range, unless a woman of a hemline and wing-shaped business, a more accessible shorts and lacquered leathers Nineties play via bold patterns is thinking of auditioning for cutouts on the chests of soft way for Clarins to cash in certainly looked like they could and exaggerated shapes, the Ringling Bros. Even then, dresses and structured coats. on Formichetti’s major induce a sweat. Otherwise, the particularly with strong the job’s not in the bag. Cutouts have become an social media presence, not pieces were in line with the shoulders. His version of the effective signature for Henry, to mention his Lady Gaga Asian-inflected, futuristic tone look, however, was rendered Carven: By offering an bringing novelty to the look connection. One style was Formichetti and Peigne have with a heavy hand and an antidote to the toughened, without feeling forced. even inspired by her derriere. consistently plied. 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012 WWD.COM Sharon Wauchob: Asia is certainly Sharon Wauchob Ann Demeulemeester Rue du Mail in the air this season. So, too, are white, black and an abundance of pajama pants, FOR MORE all of which showed up on COVERAGE, SEE Sharon Wauchob’s runway. For all its shared subject matter, her collection was a standout, WWD.com/ beautiful in its light touch. runway. Wauchob opened with white, a wrap shirtdress that was knife-pleated down one side. It was worn under a jacket that introduced the soft tailoring and gentle peplums that played out through the show, along with origami, lingerie and bedroom influences. A black tunic with a floral rosace decoration was slit down the front to flash the model’s bra. A strapless silk dress was suspended from a bra strap in back, and tunics and silk blouses were shown over loose, sheer pants done in scarf prints and black lace. The delicate layers gave a taste of what lied beneath, whether in see-through fabrics or the shredded fringe effects slashed on the front of short dresses, adding up a to gracefully alluring look.

Rue du Mail: Martine Sitbon tapped into fashion’s current love affair with the Swinging Sixties, showing a Mod-inspired collection for Rue du Mail. The designer played with Op Art effects in an opening sequence of monochrome shifts, made from sheer fabric overlaid with patent leather dot and stripe Bouchra Jarrar Manish Limi Feu appliqués. Dresses and skirts Arora in crisp white cotton toile, laser-cut to resemble a giant paper doily, added to the naïf, sometimes crafty, feel. Things got more grown-up when Sitbon moved into floral prints, which looked great. They were spliced and overlaid to increasingly trippy effect, with cellophane flower bibs giving a three-dimensional punch. Dresses and coats in an abstract motif looked like a sliced mineral and made for a suitably psychedelic finale. SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS Ann Demeulemeester: Prized for her tailoring, Ann Demeulemeester was in thrall PARIS of flou for her spring show, a torpid parade of trailing chiffon sleeves, flapping ecclesiastic panels and billowing, featherweight jersey. Not that the clothes were wimpy. In fact, a heroic mood thrummed through this darkly futuristic collection. It opened with black minidresses encircled with thick black MURA GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND FRANCK GIOVANNI leather wrestling belts, bringing Wonder Woman to mind, and it climaxed with monastic black PHOTOS BY gowns whose wispy panels did not mark a vivid departure leather vest with a folded collar, traditional jewelry motifs into Limi Feu: Eschewing a traditional were anchored by sculptural from the looks she showed last worn over a vivid green-and- ornamentation prints and runway show, Limi Yamamoto harnesses and breastplates. season, but that’s exactly how black sleeveless blouse and embellishments. hosted an intimate cocktail As ever, the clothes had the French designer likes it. Her black cigarette pants. “What Arora put the razzle-dazzle party in her Paris showroom. dignity and were beautifully approach is all about wardrobe fascinates me is to harmonize into every look, sometimes There, models in her Limi Feu crafted. Although few in staples that will be cherished for all these contrasts, to turn them getting a bit carried away. cocooning creations mingled number, the jackets were years to come — the antithesis of into something fluid,” said Thus less was more on the with guests and also appeared striking — often sleeveless, a one-season wonder. Jarrar, pointing to a monochrome prettiest of the bunch, such in a video projected in a loop. always elongated — and For spring, Jarrar took dress made of panels of silk as a crisp light-blue T-shirt The designer — whose muses languid in lustrous silks. They the trenchcoat that formed georgette floated on crepe de with a gold beaded neckline include Patti Smith and Pina were mostly black, relieved the basis of her fall couture chine — its apparent simplicity and a long tiered necklace Bausch — went back to her occasionally by silver or deep show and reworked it in black spoke volumes. adornment, paired with a wide comfort zone with a largely purple. Shorter jackets were wool without losing any of its skirt in a chain and brooch black-and-white lineup. Looks sliced up the back, and the impeccable cut or nip-waisted Manish Arora: Turning to his own print. A T-shirt with shoulder came in oversize, slouchy sleeves could be zipped open swing. Some of the trench roots, Manish Arora chose India embroidery and a tiger-head volumes juxtaposed with up the top. details were also worked to inform his spring lineup theme topping skinny jeans (a structured tailoring. There were While a bit dramatic into other pieces, such as a — yet not of the Bollywood collaboration with Notify) also exaggerated overalls and button- for real life, some of these shoulder flap on a sleeveless variety. In a welcome move, his looked fresh. down shirts in men’s silhouettes, outfits could work in a stylish black dress with a pleated interpretation had a distinct Arora’s new jewelry with tops and skirts featuring science-fiction movie. panel running down the vibe without, for the most part, Amrapali — particularly the lattice-patterned cutouts and front. It was one of the many feeling too literal. He updated gold headpieces — added a raincoat that morphed into a Bouchra Jarrar: Bouchra Jarrar’s asymmetric looks on offer. the country’s pastel pinks, another bit of Indian spice to cape — all worked in her cool second ready-to-wear collection Standouts included a cream blues and greens, and worked the collection. streetwear vibe. CEW 2013 INSIDERS’ CHOICE BEAUTYAWARDS

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* ADDITIONAL FEE INCURRED 12 WWD friday, september 28, 2012 WWD.COM beauty a moody city at the end of a day, awash in muted grays and blues, with the Crow for Pink Book Trussardi Scent Honors Milan gentle sparkle of streetlights. Trussardi Sheryl Crow iS the cover girl for Bloomingdale’s walks through well-known locations sixth-annual Pink Book arriving in mailboxes starting green mandarin. The heart contains — the Galleria Vittorio emanuele, the Monday, which kicks off the store’s october campaign By CynThiA MArTenS lavender, breezy calone and violet flow- Castello Sforzesco, Piazza della Scala to fight breast cancer. inside the 27-page catalogue, ers, over a base of cashmeran, vetiver, —shedding his keys and bag along the Crow discusses her bout with breast cancer, plus her MilAn — with its clashing architec- leather and tonka beans. way, and unbuttoning his shirt by a upcoming Broadway musical adaptation of the movie ture and congested traffic, Milan is not “i hope that this new project can bathtub in the Parco Sempione. The “Diner,” her two adopted children and making music. a city that leaves everyone smitten, represent the excellence of products final shots show Trussardi on the roof- Photographed by Ben watts, the 50-year-old Crow but those who know it appreciate its Made in italy,” said roberto Martone, top of the Duomo, gazing lovingly at the models three outfits with items from Joie, Bella Dahl, sobriety and style. The new Trussardi president of iCr-iT F, which acquired city skyline. wenders noted the com- equipment and rag & Bone. “Someone like me men’s eau de toilette, Trussardi My the Trussardi fragrance license in 2011, mercial tells the story of “a man who shouldn’t be diagnosed with breast cancer, that’s what land, which hits stores at the end of the same year the fashion house feted treats the whole city as if it’s his own.” was going through my mind,” Crow says in the inter- September, is a love its 100th anniversary. iCr-iTF and Trussardi called on so- view. “i wasn’t thinking about a diagnosis. i was just letter to the city, with “it’s a product that orig- ciologist Francesco Morace to develop doing what i was supposed to do, which was staying Tomaso Trussardi as tes- inates from traditional the project in keeping with the brand’s on top of my mammograms. it was a shock.” timonial in a commer- artisan craftsmanship, history and identity. The Pink Book also has a tribute to the late evelyn cial shot by film director the ‘know-how’ that Architect Antonio Citterio designed lauder, founder of the Breast Cancer research wim wenders. Trussardi built with its the rectangular glass bottle with a hand- Foundation, by author, cartoonist, philanthropist Trussardi — son of history and tradition.” finished, vegetable-tanned leather band and cancer survivor Marisa Acocella Marchetto; nicola Trussardi, who european rollout of around it, engraved with the Trussardi a spread on doctors and researchers in cancer re- turned his family’s lux- the fragrance will be greyhound crest. he said the fragrance search, and an array of products to earn points and ury glove-making busi- complete by the end bottle needed to be something lasting contribute dollars to the cause. Aside from the book, ness into a major fash- of the year, while the rather than disposable, “like an old the Bloomingdale’s campaign covers store and online ion player — is chief Middle east and Far book.…you don’t throw old books away, activities and partners with the estée lauder Cos. executive officer for TrS east regions will see it you want to keep them.” inc., the BCrF and grass-roots organizations such as evolution, the Trussardi in store in spring 2013, The bottle’s neck sits below its shoul- Breast oasis, The Cancer Group company that pro- and, by october of next ders, hiding the pump, and the packag- Vixen Fund and The Tutu duces the brand’s first The ad visual. year, Trussardi My land ing features an antique gold-colored Project. “Bloomingdale’s and second lines of cloth- will be available world- box with the Trussardi name and logo is proud to do our part ing and accessories. wide at a total of about 7,000 doors. The emblazoned across the front. in continuing evelyn he agreed to be featured in the com- Middle east and China are important Trussardi My land will be avail- lauder’s passionate quest mercial only on condition wenders new regions, and Martone said expan- able in three sizes, 1 oz., 1.7 oz. and 3.4 to not only end breast can- could direct. “he travels a lot and films sion in the Americas is planned. he oz., set at 41 euros ($53 at current ex- cer but prevent it,” said different cities, and he understood this would not discuss sales figures but, change), 57 euros ($73.50) and 79 euros Michael Gould, chairman is an ode to Milan and to Trussardi.… asked for an estimate, industry sources ($101.90) respectively. A 3.4-oz. after- and chief executive officer

i’ve lived in Milan for years. i love suggested the fragrance could generate shave lotion for 53 euros ($68.37), sham- BEN WATTS of Bloomingdale’s, which Milan,” Trussardi said. 15 million or 16 million euros (about poo and shower gel for 28 euros ($36.12) since 2005 has raised more Perfumer Alexandra Kosinski of $19.3 million or $20.6 million at current and both spray and alcohol-free deodor- than $4 million for BCrF. PHOTO BY Givaudan created the woodsy, fougère exchange) wholesale over a year. ants for 27 euros ($34.83) each will make — DaviD Moin edt, which opens with bergamot and in wenders’ campaign film, Milan is up the fragrance’s extension line. Sheryl Crow on the cover of The Pink Book.

w28a012a;5.indd 1 9/27/12 6:18 PM 09272012182014 HOME STEW: Gray skies over Paris greeted Kristen Stewart at Thursday morning’s Balenciaga show. WWDSTYLE PAGE 15 MEMO PAD

NEEDLEMAN’S NEW GIG: She finally made up her mind. Weeks of speculation that Deborah Needleman, the editor in chief of WSJ., the Wall Street Journal’s glossy style Paris magazine, would decamp for T: The New York Times Style Magazine finally came to a head Thursday morning. The Times was finally able to officially welcome Needleman aboard as Sally Singer’s successor with a gleeful announcement. “Deborah is a creative and innovative Pops editor with an impeccable sense of style and design. As we look to expand and extend T and continue to evolve it for our loyal and sophisticated New York Times audience, we will rely on Deborah’s broad range of experience and creative energy,” said Jill Abramson, executive editor of The New York Times. Abramson had made an offer to Needleman in early September, but Off an announcement was held up over ongoing negotiations with the two papers. At one point, Hearst Corp. had PARIS — The front-row also courted Needleman for a position at one of its magazines. scene at Paris Fashion The Times is eager for its new star Week heated up Thursday to grace its sixth floor, where T and the Sunday Magazine share office space. as the jet set started Needleman, who was representing WSJ. at settling into those the Milan collections, starts Monday. The reaction at the Journal was more prime seats, including muted — while taking a shot at its rival. Poppy Delevingne, “This is a moment to bid adieu to a great magazine editor, Deborah who took in the work Needleman, who is off to grayer pastures,” at Zadig & Voltaire. Journal managing editor Robert Thomson said in a memo to staff. For more, see page 15. Publisher Anthony Cenname told WWD that Needleman’s departure presents advertisers with an opportunity to “get to know another editor.” “The advertising has always been about the audience, not the editor,” he said, somewhat overlooking the journal’s dogged attempts to keep Needleman at the paper. “The industry you’re reaching, fashion, might be interested in who’s the editor. Most advertisers care about audience,” he said. “There are many advertisers, like Louis Vuitton and Chanel, that were with us before Deborah and before myself.” He said WSJ. would still be competitive with T. “It’s apples to oranges,” he said. “She’s an editor. She’s not an ad sales person.” Needleman was not available for comment. Still, the loss is a significant one. The Journal was bullish on a magazine the two of them — they both joined in 2010 — had helped flourish. Frequency will increase next year to 11 times a year and to a monthly basis in 2014. Ad pages are also up — 10 percent through September. The men’s style issue, out this weekend, has 58 pages, still not as many as T, which had about 81 pages in its recent travel issue, according to Media Industry Newsletter. Needleman had also created the weekend Journal’s “Off Duty” section. A spokeswoman for the Journal said the search was already under way for a successor. Needleman had already closed the upcoming November issue, which features the magazine’s signature event, the Innovator of the Year Awards, and was working on December. It’s not clear if the December issue will bear her editor’s letter. Needleman is expected to bring some of her WSJ. staff to T, though as of Thursday, none had resigned. A spokeswoman for the Times said “it is far too early to speculate” who else might join PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA from the Journal. — ERIK MAZA AND ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD 14 WWD Friday, September 28, 2012

WWD: So it’s basically Yohji Yamamoto being used as a distraction? Y.Y.: Yes. We cannot go further Yohji Yamamoto without each other. The eye relationship has become deep already. Off the Cuff WWD: Are these problems having an impact on your {Continued from page one} WWD: After your Y-3 10th business and that of other prefer to drop dead while on the anniversary show in New York, Japanese designers in China? job. “My ideal feeling is that I you said that “in the world right Y.Y.: Not yet. For a very, very suddenly fall down [while] I’m now, fashion is s--t.” Can you long time, China has been a making clothing,” he quipped. elaborate on what you meant [manufacturing center] for One of fashion’s most by that? world brands, but now China intriguing and influential Yohji Yamamoto: Let me talk like has become a big market for figures, Yamamoto admits he’s an old man. Young people, be big brands. So China has not an astute businessman. His careful. Beautiful things are both powers.

company filed for bankruptcy disappearing every day. Be protection back in 2009 before careful.…You don’t need to WWD: Do you think future Japan’s Integral Corp. took be [shopping at fast-fashion generations of Japanese control of the fashion house. stores], especially young leaders could make a more Yamamoto said he’s happy people. They are beautiful serious apology? to have complete freedom to naturally, because they are Y.Y.: I don’t know. But the most

design, but he’s also quick to young. So they should even clear situation in Japan is we point out he doesn’t exactly wear simple jeans and a T-shirt. are losing real leadership. consider himself a hired hand. It’s enough. Don’t be too much We have no courage.…They “If I stop designing, this fashionable.…The brand should be more educated. At company loses value. It advertising is making you crazy. least a leader of [a country] in becomes nothing,” he said, Yo u don’t need to be too sexy. the modern world, they should shortly before donning a navy Yo u are sexy enough. ’’ speak English because English Borsalino fedora and posing is the world language. for a portrait while smoking WWD: How are you finding life, a Hi-Lite, a retro Japanese working as a designer under WWD: So they aren’t brand of cigarette popular with your fashion house’s new international enough? gentlemen of a certain age. owners, Integral Corp.? Y.Y.: No. The designer offered little Y.Y.: Being a designer, it became in the way of explanation easier mentally, because the WWD: Going back to fashion, about the inspiration or business part became very there really haven’t been any message behind his spring strong. So I don’t need to take Japanese designers recently show in Paris — or of his Y-3 care about business like before. who have made it in a big way show in New York earlier this internationally, at least at the month, which was the 10th WWD: So you feel more level of yourself, Rei Kawakubo

anniversary of the brand — freedom to just concentrate Tsukasa Nakagaw or Issey Miyake. Why do you but did a drop a few clues on designing? think that is? about his mind-set this season, Y.Y.: Concentrate, yeah, for Y.Y.: In the Japanese market, namely his prime ambition to creativity. PHOTO BY department stores, they don’t challenge himself. give young designers space, “Each time I’m trying my WWD: But is Integral pressuring and the specialty stores, they new invention, testing how you in any way to be creative If I stop designing, this don’t buy young designers’ far I’m creating. This is the in a certain way that makes merchandise. Naturally, young challenge. So I can easily make commercial sense for them? designers don’t have space to mistakes. I don’t want to sit on Y.Y.: I’ve got total freedom. company loses value. sell in the world, so they cannot the established style, the Yohji If I feel [like I’m in a] cage, grow up. [Even when they get Yamamoto style, and make the I’m a little bird in the cage, orders] they cannot get paid. same collection each season I would quit. It becomes nothing. They have no power to push for continually 20 years. I [retailers] to pay back, so young want to break myself,” he said, WWD: How far along is the WWD: Are you concerned at retiring life. Should I live in designers have to have sort of adding that he could care less company’s restructuring all about Integral selling the the countryside, fishing or a selling machine, a system. whether the majority of his process at this point? company, possibly to someone planting vegetables, playing Sometimes I think to myself, audience really gets what he is Y.Y.: It was so quick. If I you don’t like? with dogs? I can’t imagine it. Maybe [my company] can help trying to say. look back, I was very much Y.Y.: I don’t care. If I stop It must be so boring. young designers by using this “I don’t care,” he said. concentrated to create new designing, this company loses company’s machine system, “Maybe 2 or 3 percent of the collections each time. It is value. It becomes nothing. WWD: Instead you’d rather logistics and power. audience could understand already three years ago. continue to think about what I am meaning…more than WWD: So do you think you will designing? WWD: Would you like to do more 85 to 88 percent of people don’t WWD: So you think the company continue designing for many Y.Y.: Yes. My ideal feeling is that of that in the future, helping understand, but I don’t care.” is in a good place? more years? I suddenly fall down during young designers? Here, Yamamoto’s thoughts. Y.Y.: Yeah. Y.Y.: I have no idea about making clothing. Y.Y.: Yes, I’m thinking about it. WWD: What do you’’ think about WWD: What was different for the current political tensions you when you were starting out between Japan and China? as a designer? Y.Y.: I was born as a son of war, Y.Y.: Japanese young designers’ so in my heart, the war didn’t creation has become like ever finish…[when I think about stylists’ creation. I don’t Japanese aggression during the feel envy.…It’s luck of the war] I go sinking in the deep power of creativity, because darkness.…Right after the they graduate from design Second [World] War, [Germany university, fashion university, acknowledged its remorse to art university. They get the Jewish people]. It was an nourished about very academic apology. So Germany did it, but creativity, but they don’t have Japan didn’t do anything. We creativity from here [gestures to lost a chance to apologize. his heart]…soulful.

WWD: Do you think the situation WWD: And you think that is will ever change? a particular issue with the Y.Y.: I think there are two ways Japanese designers? of dealing with each other. One Y.Y.: No, not only Japanese. way is economic collaboration. Everybody. We are losing those Without this collaboration, young people because we have Japan and China cannot go too much information by media, forward. The other side is especially [through computers]. very political. When China We can see everything at the NO

qui has an interior problem, like a same time, so already they are a Looks problem between rich people spoiled too much. So when we OHN

from this J and poor people, then they’ve have talk sessions with young

season’s BY got a big problem, they start designers or students, I tell Y-3 show. shouting anti-Japan. It’s very them: “Be bright. Your eyes

PHOTOs political, to calm people down. have become dirty.”

w28a014a;8.indd 14 9/27/12 6:50 PM 09272012185117 2.5x7 (right)

WWD friday, september 28, 2012 15 WWD.COM

China in Paris initiative, sent out a collection of sculptural cream-colored tops and dresses honed from panels Fashion scoops of knitted cashmere draped around the body. Worn with gossamer knitted cream-hued tights, some of the looks DARK MATTER: Leaden skies over Paris had models parade at regular intervals had intricate origamilike manipulations greeted “Twilight” star Kristen Stewart on a small raised catwalk framed by or bands of folded knit that gave an as she arrived at Thursday morning’s brightly colored Plexiglas sheets. organic, fossil-like 3-D relief to the Balenciaga show. “Yeah, I guess I’m used Mingling among guests were Camille garment. — KATYA FoREMAN to them,” she said with a smile. Rowe and Poppy Delevingne, who front the The actress, who fronts Balenciaga’s brand’s ready-to-wear and perfume SilVER liNiNG: Copenhagen-based Florabotanica scent, said she’s still campaigns, and newly recruited brand designer ole Yde has a passion for one of hunting for her next film project, but ambassadors Tallulah Harlech and Sophia his country’s most famous exports: the if she had her druthers, it would be Hesketh. — JoEllE DiDERiCH renowned silversmith George Jensen. a screen adaptation of “Lie Down in Apparently, the feeling is mutual as Darkness,” a novel by William FiNAZZo TRiAl DATE SET: Christopher the company opened its archives for Styron about a dysfunctional Finazzo, Aéropostale’s former chief the first time to Yde to accessorize his family. “It’s hard to get merchandising officer, has a date spring show, presented in August during a movie like that made set with a Brooklyn federal court Copenhagen’s fashion week. nowadays,” said the petite for Nov. 12. Finazzo and Douglas The Danes have paired up again star, dressed in a yellow Dey, the owner of South Bay to show the archival pieces in Paris biker jacket and printed Apparel, a former supplier this week that were designed by some

black jeans. Kristen of Aéropostale, were both StePhane Feugere Photo by of Jensen’s most famous designers, Chiara Mastroianni Stewart indicted in June 2010 in inès de la Fressange Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe and wore an unfortunate new connection with charges Nanna Ditzel, alongside Yde’s ready- accessory at the show: a involving a multimillion- that the book features illustrations by to-wear collection. Jensen plans to cast on her left hand, dollar kickback scheme. Matthew Nelson. — J.D. choose three of the signature pieces as she recently broke According to the dating from the Forties through the a finger. The injury indictment, Finazzo CHiNA CluB: Taking in her first fashion Seventies and reproduce them for hasn’t held up filming incorporated a firm called show front row at the presentation its boutiques. of her next movie, C&D Retail Consultants of cashmere specialist liu Fang on — RoxANNE RoBiNSoN-ESCRiouT “The Bastards,” a Inc. The indictment said Wednesday evening at the Westin Paris revenge tale by French Finazzo “caused Aéropostale Hotel was the newly crowned Miss World, WoRK BEFoRE PlEASuRE: Elettra Wiedemann

director Claire Denis. “I StePhane Feuguere Photo by to pay South Bay more than China’s Yu Wenxia. Until now Wenxia leads an action-packed life. The sporty hide it. I put it in my $350 million as payment for has had zero exposure to the luxury model, who sat front row at the Nina Ricci coat,” she said of her its merchandise” between world, having grown up on a farm in the show in Paris on Thursday, got married wounded hand. “I have August 1996 and November Heilongjiang province in northern China. to her beau, James Marshall, in late August, good painkillers. You 2006, and that, over the same She wore a long gray crystal-embellished but the pair do not seem to have found get used to pain. Look, period, Dey paid Finazzo, cashmere dress with a draped neckline time for a honeymoon. “I’m checking out a I’m wearing high heels,” through bank transfers to C by Fang that exposed her shoulders. few shows in Paris, and having some work she laughed. & D, more than $14 million. “It’s beautiful in a unique way and so dinners, before I go on my honeymoon,” Amira Casar is about Dey on Thursday comfortable, which is very important for she said. The destination? Peru and to sink her teeth into a pleaded guilty to a a dress,” said Wenxia. Mexico, before heading to Miami to take juicy role. “A real bitch,” conspiracy charge to Fang, who was the sole designer part in the Ironman 70.3 triathlon is how she described her violate the Travel Act, selected to show as part of the fifth in Miami. — AlEx WYNNE “very complex” character in which carries a a forthcoming film by “Goodbye penalty of five years Lenin!” director Wolfgang Becker. imprisonment and Salma Hayek said she’s wrapping up the forfeiture or $7.5 a promotional tour for “Here Comes million. He remains out on a $2.5 the Boom,” due out in the U.S. on Oct. million secured bond. A sentencing 12. The film, also starringKevin James, date has not been set. The federal is about a public teacher who literally Travel Act essentially bars traveling fights to save its music program by between states or countries or the becoming a martial-arts contestant. use of U.S. mail or “any facility in — MilES SoCHA interstate or foreign commerce” to For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. further certain types of criminal THE iNN PlACE: French contemporary activity. — ViCKi M. YouNG brand Zadig & Voltaire took over a gutted private mansion on the Left Bank iN THE PiNK: inès de la Fressange is to stage its debut catwalk presentation adding a new line to her résumé: Spaces at Paris Fashion Week. Founder and consultant for Schiaparelli. The owner Thierry Gillier revealed the space Roger Vivier brand ambassador said COMMERCIAL would house the brand’s first hotel, due she has been working with Italian REAL ESTATE to open in 2014. entrepreneur Diego Della Valle for the “This was a project dear to our last three years on plans to revive hearts,” he said. “It will be a slightly the storied fashion house. private hotel, not open to everybody, with “Then the exhibition at the 40 rooms. We are going to select guests. Met lit the flame, so everything Showrooms & Lofts It won’t be open to Chinese tourists, for has gathered speed in the last few BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS example. There is a lot of demand in months,” de la Fressange said at the Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Paris — many people are looking for Carven show in Paris on Thursday. quiet hotels with a certain privacy.” She said Della Valle had interviewed Zadig & Voltaire, which usually shows several people for the post of its collection by appointment, this time creative director, and would reveal his choice soon. Other guests included Dree Hemingway, sporting a figure-hugging red dress for the upcoming Carven collaboration with Petit Bateau. CREATIVE ART DIR $ 100 K - 125 K Bras, Intimates, Shape wear a must French actress Elodie Yung was Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 fighting fit after five months of [email protected] shooting “G.I. Joe: Retaliation,” opposite Bruce Willis and Channing Tatum. To train for the part of Jinx, she had to master fighting with two swords. “It was completely new to me and very, very hard to master, so I was a little scared at first. I almost hurt myself during the shoot, but it turned out fine,” she said. Writer Stephanie laCava, meanwhile, is about to release her first novel, “An Extraordinary SALES PROFESSIONAL Connected with major retail, Theory of Objects: A Memoir of looking for opportunity. an Outsider in Paris,” due to be Call 215 292 9163 published by Harper in December. “I grew up here in the Nineties and it’s about that experience and that

Photo by Franck Mura Franck Photo by (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] cultural moment, how it shaped my Sophia Hesketh and Tallulah Harlech own sensibility,” she said, adding

w28ao15a.indd 15 9/27/12 7:33 PM 09272012193352 an almost too perfect tour eiffel paillette PALETTE of sh i m m e r, shine...

brasseries, bou l e v a r d s, banlieues...poets, paints, ponts. . .

el e g a n c e accentuates. artists . A R T . f o r m e d .

{informed} first word to dernier cri.

fl a s h mo b at the gare du nord

PARIS fashion week maccosmetics.tumblr.com WWDMILESTONESSECTION II

Fall 1995 Spring by Karl 2001 Lagerfeld. by Stella McCartney.

CHLOE at 60 Spring Fall 2012 2006 by by Clare Phoebe Waight The fashion house founded in 1952 by Philo. Keller. Gaby Aghion ushered in an era of modern dressing by offering relatively simple,

GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI feminine clothes accessible to a wide audience. Here, a look from spring 1960. BY KELLER AND PHILO STEPHANE FEUGERE; WAIGHT BY THOMAS WIEDENHOFER; MCCARTNEY RUNWAY PHOTO BY LAGERFELD RUNWAY Q THE BUSINESS SIDE QDESIGNERS THROUGH THE YEARS 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM WWDThe MILESTONES Frill of It All

CHLOÉ THROUGH THE YEARS. 1957: Gérard Pirpart is hired 1960s: Chloé brings as designer. young Left Bank designers including Christiane Bailly, Tan Giudicelli, 1956: Aghion Graziella Fontana, 1966: After and business Maxime de la freelancing at partner Jacques Falaise and Karl Chloé, Lagerfeld is Lenoir introduce Lagerfeld into tapped to become 1921: their first its studio. head designer. Gabriella collection at the Anoka is Café de Flore born in in Paris. A look Alexandria, from Egypt. 1960.

1952: Gaby Aghion creates the first Chloé collection. 1992: Lagerfeld returns as Chloé 1974: Chloé head designer. Chloé’s launches its first 1985: Alfred Narcisse fragrance fragrance, Chloé. Dunhill Ltd., is launched. now Compagnie 1983: Lagerfeld Financière leaves Chloé. Richemont SA, 1996: Chloé 1972: buys Chloé. Innocence The first Peter O’Brien is fragrance is Chloé hired as Chloé launched. 1997: Stella boutique designer. McCartney opens at 50 becomes head Rue du Bac designer. in Paris. Phoebe Philo Backstage, joins McCartney 1996. as her design assistant.

1984: Guy Paulin 1987: Martine PETRONIO EZRA joins the house Sitbon becomes BY as designer. Chloé designer.

2008: Hannah MACGIBBON MacGibbon becomes creative director. 2002: 2005: Philo introduces Philo’s Paddington Chloé Eau de SUY; SANDRA leather goods and bag launches and Parfum launches. accessories to the Chloé becomes a bestseller. line. A Chloé boutique opens in London.

2006: Philo exits the company.

2011:

Clare Waight BY STEVE EICHNER; JEANS AND BAG ILLUSTRATION Keller is named creative 2010: The Love, director. Chloé fragrance is introduced by Coty. BY GIANNONI; PHILO GIOVANNI

2001: Philo becomes 2004: Chloé 2007: Paulo 2012: 2000: Chloé creative boutiques open in Melim Andersson The house

See by Chloé, a second director. Hannah Tokyo, Shanghai, is named head marks its 60th BY GOIZE; MCCARTNEY FRANCOIS ready-to-wear line, is MacGibbon joins Beijing and Kuwait. designer of Chloé. anniversary. introduced. Philo at Chloé. SITBON PHOTO BY once a chloÉ girl always a chloÉ girl

barneys new york is proud that chloÉ has had a place in our stores since 1983

barneys.com 4 WWD Friday, September 28, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

wwd Milestones Then and Now Gaby Aghion founded the flirty house, and Clare Waight Keller holds the design reins today. By Joelle Diderich

gaBY aghiON Gaby and Raymond married at the an undated photo of gaby aghion, shot in 1997. “She sat front row and she age of 19. In Paris, too, the Aghions grav- by her husband, raymond. cried,” he said. “It was in her heart.” WHEN GABY AGHION founded Chloé itated toward artists, becoming close to Moufarrige called Aghion a “pioneer” in 1952 as an antidote to the stiff for- writers Louis Aragon, Paul Éluard and and a “genius,” not only for her timely mality of haute couture, she did noth- Tristan Tzara. Raymond opened an art fashion impulse but also her “strategy ing short of revolutionizing fashion. gallery in 1956, specializing in modern about how to put the brand on the map The Egyptian-born designer had a art, according to Philippe. with distribution and advertising.” He simple vision: using fine fabrics to cre- “She thought of herself as an intel- noted she played a key role in forging re- ate feminine, alluring clothes that re- lectual. Her aim was to bring a touch lationships with department stores. quired minimal alteration. of poetry to fashion,” said retailer In retrospect, one of her chief innova- “She was shocked by how poorly Jeannette Alfandari, founder of the tions was giving her collection a brand French women were dressed,” her son, Jeannette boutique on the French cap- name rather than her own moniker, Philippe Aghion, recalled. “On the one ital’s Left Bank. Alfandari opened the whereas many of Europe’s biggest fash- hand, you had haute couture, for the first freestanding Chloé boutique in ion players — Dior, Chanel, Prada, etc. — very high bourgeoisie, but the majority 1972 and helped to develop the brand’s are truncated names from the founding of people were very badly turned out. commercial strategy with Aghion and designers. She named her brand after a She invented luxury ready-to-wear.” her business partner, Jacques Lenoir. good friend, Chloé Huymans. Aghion herself put it somewhat less She remembers Aghion as a voluble As a working mother in the Fifties, bluntly. “A lot of things did not exist in presence, prone to addressing staffers Aghion was also a pioneer. But Philippe France,” Aghion, who at 91 has retired as “my little kitten” — a perfect coun- stops short of calling her a feminist, pre- from the public eye, said in comments terpart to the strict Lenoir. In matters ferring to recall his parents as a perfectly provided by Chloé. “Everything was yet of business, however, Aghion was noth- modern couple. “I never saw my mother to be invented, and this thrilled me.” ing if not single-minded. serving my father, ever. That just wasn’t Born in Alexandria, Egypt, Aghion “I was carried away; it was like a tor- how things were done at home. There was appeared destined for extraordinary nado,” Aghion recalled. “I designed a no machismo. They were equals. Both things from an early age. The daughter small collection and decided to present it Though Chloé became famous for its worked — both were emancipated.” of a cigarette factory manager, she met myself. I went to source the buttons, the vaporous chiffon dresses and softly tai- Judith Clark, curator of the “Chloé. her husband, Raymond, when both were fabrics. I was sticking my neck out. I was lored suits, Aghion’s personal style was Attitudes” exhibition marking the seven years old in elementary school. the client; I became the saleswoman. I en- steady: For decades, her trademark out- brand’s 60th anniversary (see page 14) He was born into a wealthy family of countered a lot of terrible disdain.” fit has been a black tunic worn over a said that even at her advanced age, cotton exporters, but displayed early Philippe Aghion also recalled the white shirt. “I always dressed in a very Aghion remains an inspiration. stirrings of the social consciousness that young Karl Lagerfeld coming to the com- simple way,” she said. “I am not a so- “She’s the most charismatic, extraor- would later land him in political exile. pany in the mid-Sixties: “When he ar- cialite. I have friendships. I always said dinary woman with the most youth- “My parents were both appalled rived from [the house of] Jean Patou, Karl what I thought.” ful eyes in the world,” said Clark. “She at the level of poverty in Egypt,” said was a shy individual. He and my mother Even after she sold Chloé to Alfred has the eyes of a 20-year-old, and she’s Philippe Aghion, who is currently made a fantastic team. He came into the Dunhill Ltd. (now owned by Compagnie incredibly seductive and full of energy. the Robert C. Waggoner Professor of spirit of Chloé. He would have so many Financière Richemont SA) in 1985, She’s very open. I think that must have Economics at Harvard University. ideas — sometimes my mother would say Aghion remained friendly with the been key to allowing different designers “That does not mean my mother was a ‘No’ — but they were very complementa- brand’s successive chief executives. to express themselves with her brand.” revolutionary, but she stood by my fa- ry to each other. He expressed his creativ- Mounir Moufarrige invited her to watch — With contributionS ther and moved in those circles.” ity, but in the framework of Chloé.” Stella McCartney’s debut for the brand froM MileS Socha

Clare Waight Keller very mature in her approach,” de la words that pepper her talk of Chloé. hibition, Waight Keller took a wade Bourdonnaye said. “Her collections are She said the brand’s laid-back, low- through the archive and was struck by “AFTER A YEAR, you really start to get elevating the standards for Chloé.” key attitude stretches back to when the varied facets of the brand — from under the skin of a brand.” At Pringle, Waight Keller oversaw Gaby Aghion conceived of the house as a racy, breast-baring Helmut Newton So says Clare Waight Keller, who women’s and men’s collections plus all an alternative to the stuffy Paris world photo of Paloma Picasso in a one- is slated to show her third runway aspects of brand image, including shop of high fashion. shoulder dress to some of the quirky collection for Chloé on Monday as design, packaging and advertising. “It had a resonance with women, designs by Lagerfeld. the French fashion house marks its Before that, she was a senior wom- because it was very comfortable to go “I always remember the floaty 60th anniversary. en’s wear designer at Gucci under Tom there,” she said. “It was very real and dresses and frilly collections. For me, Not that her spring collection will Ford, and earlier, was design director approachable and everyday, rather than it was quite an eye-opener to find a be a retrospective exercise. for Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label men’s something elitist and couture.” surrealist approach in [Lagerfeld’s] “Everything should feel very rel- line. Her first job was as a women’s In her debut collection for Chloé, work,” she said, describing one dress evant to today,” insists Waight Keller, wear designer for Calvin Klein. Waight Keller showed two densely covered with embroidered lightbulbs, who joined Chloé in May 2011 after An affable, down-to-earth mother of pleated sundresses overdyed with kelly and another depicting a showerhead six years at the three, Waight Keller green and sunshine yellow that, when raining water. creative helm of said she relates the wearer moved, erupted into rays of They were in fact a wink at founder Pringle of Scotland. Clare Waight strongly to Chloé’s gleaming white. Aghion and her husband’s inner circle, While Waight Keller heritage.“[The brand] They were in step with a nascent which included pioneers in various ar- Keller is the fourth doesn’t take itself too trend toward cleaned-up, modern de- tistic movements. young Englishwoman seriously,” she said. sign, and arguably her first iconic looks In Waight Keller’s estimation, to helm the design “It caters to a real for the house. “They have a drama they’re proof of Lagerfeld’s “sense studio in the past woman with more of a that’s caught a lot of attention,” Waight of irreverence” and the lighthearted dozen years (after daytime wardrobe.… Keller shrugged. “At the same time, spirit that permeates the house’s his- Stella McCartney, I love the fact that it they feel very easy.” tory, intermingled with some risqué Phoebe Philo and feels very real.” She characterized Chloé as a “sis- moments in certain eras. Hannah MacGibbon), Indeed, rather terhood” brand with a woman-friendly “ Yo u see a sense of femininity, and chief executive of- than getting her kicks spirit, a quality expressed in advertis- that’s really the root of the brand,” she ficer Geoffroy de la from seeing stars ing imagery picturing several models, explained. “There’s a lightness and fri- Bourdonnaye noted wear her gowns on underscoring the “secret society” vibe. volity; it’s quite cool and nonchalant, that Waight Keller is the red carpet, Waight “Even in Karl [Lagerfeld]’s era, it was yet confident. one of the few design- Keller appreciates all about groups of women,” she said. “Even if the essential core of the ers at Chloé to have the way clothes and “For me, Chloé is so much about feel- brand is about movement, the move- prior experience as a accessories come to ing good in what you wear, sharing it, ment has changed over the years,” she creative director for a life when real women expressing yourself through clothes, but continued. “That’s something we’re try- global brand. wear them in unex- you’re never dressed by your clothes.” ing to show across the exhibition. It’s “Clare is ex- pected ways. “Fresh” Teaming with curator Judith Clark more eclectic than just a fluid dress.” tremely smart and and “effortless” are to mount the 60th anniversary ex- — M.S.

w28b004a;10.indd 1 9/27/12 2:17 PM 09272012141820 www.chloe.com coty prestige congratulatescoty chloé on60yearsofstyle 6 WWD friday, september 28, 2012 SECTION II

wwd milestones

Myriad designers have taken Chloé’s helm, but the carefree nature of the house has The Legacy always ruled its aesthetic. Spring 1958 Spring 2003 tephane Feugere s pring 2001 by s e; C Commer + rt a ourdin/ b uy F g F o state e he t rom iannoni; 1969 and 1970 F g iovanni g pring 2003 and Fall 2012 by pring 2003 and Fall s pring 2000, s er; F homas Wiedenho Fall 1995 Fall 2012 Spring 1970 t

Three of Chloé’s best-known designers reminisce about the house. 1995 photo by Fall East and for picturing garments in ad cam- The creative crew paigns he never designed, in violation of his contract. KARL LAGERFELD there was quality.” Margaux Hemingway.” Jacques Lenoir. In 1985, Aghion and Lenoir sold the During his epic fashion career, Karl While famous today for the elaborate And he was eons ahead of the high- “They have been damaging my reputa- company to Compagnie Financière Lagerfeld logged some 25 years at Chloé sets he constructs for Chanel, Lagerfeld low fashion antics of Sharon Stone, tion for years,” he lamented to WWD in Richemont SA, formerly Dunhill Holdings. in two separate stints, helping define its actually introduced the concept while who famously paired a $22 Gap turtle- 1982, charging the company with selling “They had to sell very quickly after I left,” soft, romantic spirit — and occasional at Chloé, for his celebrated “Fellini’s neck with a Valentino skirt at the 1996 a “horrible couture line” in the Middle the designer explained. Art Deco bent. Casanova” show in 1977 at the Palais de Academy Awards, repeating the stunt in East and for picturing garments in ad Lagerfeld was lured back to Chloé The multitasking designer started at Congrès, and another in 1978 at the Palais 1998, pairing a Gap button-down with a campaigns he never designed, in viola- in 1992 for a final stint during which he Chloé in 1963, working alongside sev- de Chaillot in which models clad in heavy Vera Wang skirt. tion of his contract. turned out a series of dreamy ad cam- eral other freelance talents engaged by jewelry were penned in a cage and re- “I like the idea of showing a soft cotton In 1985, Aghion and Lenoir sold the paigns starring Linda Evangelista — and founder Gaby Aghion, including Graziella leased at the beginning of the show by vi- shirt or jacket with a silk evening dress — company to Compagnie Financière battled with then-chief executive officer Fontana, Tan Giudicelli and Michèle vacious model Pat Cleveland. mixing the most expensive fabrics with Richemont SA, formerly Dunhill Mounir Moufarrige. “Five years was more Rosier. Lagerfeld took over as the sole “We did quite wild things for them. Gaby the cheapest. There is humor in this sort Holdings. “They had to sell very quickly than enough,” Lagerfeld said. creative force in 1966, relishing his collab- was never afraid,” Lagerfeld said. of dressing,” Lagerfeld said in 1977. after I left,” the designer explained. In 1997, Lagerfeld was replaced by oration with a dynamic fashion pioneer. Prints were key to the collections, Lagerfeld credited American depart- Lagerfeld was lured back to Chloé Stella McCartney, whose work for the label “Gaby was fun, sparkling and witty — and Lagerfeld designed them all himself. ment and specialty stores, including in 1992 for a final stint during which he he came to admire, along with the “more very cultured and very funny,” he recalled Italian textile house Bini realized them. Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, turned out a series of dreamy ad cam- romantic” approach of McCartney’s even- in an interview. “I like to discuss with In the Seventies, Lagerfeld took Chloé Bloomingdale’s and I. Magnin, and mer- paigns featuring Linda Evangelista — and tual successor, Phoebe Philo. women when I do dresses. She was very — built on the concept of luxury ready-to- chants like Sonja Caproni, Phillip Miller battled with then-chief executive officer — Miles socha open, very cultivated. wear as an unstuffy alternative to couture and the late Marvin Traub, for building Mounir Moufarrige. “Five years was more “We did quite interesting things. What — to a new zenith. Evening dresses eas- Chloé’s name and reputation overseas. than enough,” Lagerfeld said. I liked was the mix of feminine clothes ily sold for more than $1,000 — among the “They did an incredible job,” he said. In 1997, Lagerfeld was succeeded by and quite wild Pop things,” he continued. most expensive at that time. The designer and house parted ways Stella McCartney, whose work for the label Hand-painted dresses, layered looks “It’s funny, but often the most expen- in 1983 at the end of his contract — the he came to admire, along with the “more and oversize coats were all part of sive pieces — like my Casanova blouses same year he signed on as the new coutu- romantic” approach of McCartney’s even- Lagerfeld’s legacy at Chloé. In particular, — are the ones the buyers want the most,” rier at Chanel. According to sources, the tual successor, Phoebe Philo. his early Art Deco collections for Chloé he told WWD in a 1977 interview. “I do de- Chloé business was in robust health when — Miles socha made waves in fashion. sign for a special woman. She is not nec- Lagerfeld left, selling almost as much rtw “I don’t like retrospectives,” he told essarily 17, and she is not necessarily 50. as Yves Saint Laurent. MARTINE SITBON WWD in 1969. “But the Twenties and I cannot classify my clients as to type or Still, Lagerfeld was openly criti- When Martine Sitbon arrived at Chloé Thirties were the last epoch near to us age. But my customers range from people cal of Chloé management, having long in 1987, the concept of a young designer when things were still well made…when like Gaby van Zuylen to Veronique Peck to clashed with Aghion’s business partner rejuvenating an established brand was

w28b006(7)a;8.indd 6 9/27/12 4:55 PM 09272012165721 WWD friday, september 28, 2012 7 WWD.COM

1970 Spring 2001 tephane Feugere s pring 2001 by s e; C Commer + rt a ourdin/ b uy F g F o state e he t rom

Spring 2003 Spring 2000

1969 iannoni; 1969 and 1970 F g iovanni g pring 2003 and Fall 2012 by pring 2003 and Fall s pring 2000, s er; F homas Wiedenho t

Three of Chloé’s best-known designers reminisce about the house. 1995 photo by Fall

still in its infancy. after just six months when a manage- STELLA MccARTNEy lingerie-inspired looks and her roman- Ye t that is what she proceeded to do ment change at Dunhill (now owned The search that ended with Stella tic — and sometimes even folksy — take over the next four years, helping to put by Compagnie Financière Richemont), McCartney succeeding Karl Lagerfeld on fashion. Chloé back on the fashion map after the the brand’s owner, signaled a change in at Chloé was a long — and significant — Her highly anticipated debut collec- turbulence that followed the departure of strategy. Incoming chief executive officer one. Lagerfeld had been firmly installed tion drew mostly high praise from retail- Karl Lagerfeld in 1983. Jaime Rovira chose her as sole creative at the house for years, and his replace- ers and critics alike. It was dubbed by Sitbon, who had launched her name- director, leaving her free reign to impose ment was always going to be operating WWD as “charming” and “simply delight- sake label a year earlier, was initially ex- her signature blend of strict tailoring with under a magnifying glass. ful, an upbeat frolic with a party atmo- cited to work for the house, which at the softer feminine elements. In 1997, McCartney was 25 years sphere,” and while she didn’t “set fashion time produced some of the most expen- “The media reaction was immediately old, and straight out of Central Saint on a new course,” she “has indeed turned sive ready-to-wear on the market. quite positive, and it signaled that Chloé Martins fashion degree program in the house of Chloé in a new direction — “For me, it was fascinating, because was back with a new, feminine energy,” London. Overnight, she had a major one that’s fresh, young and laced with a I could work with embroiderers like she said. “It was one of the first houses, if role as creative director, an atelier in trace of English eccentricity.” François Lesage and Montex. I loved the not the first, to hire a young designer and Paris — and the gaze of the The designer, a lifelong For more on some experience,” she recalled. “Everything was let them design the collection in a way fashion world upon her. oF Chloé’s other vegetarian and animal lover, made in France and it was semi-couture.” that redefined the identity of the brand.” “I was very young and designers through said she was proud to have But the collaboration got off to a The period also coincided with the they were my first ever the years, see stuck to her beliefs during bumpy start when she realized she rise of the supermodel, though Sitbon fashion shows in Paris,” WWD.com/ her tenure there. “We used would be part of a team of three cre- recalls that her longtime personal muse, said the designer. fashion-news. no leather and no fur and I’m ative directors, alongside Samy Shalom, Kirsten Owen, was deemed too edgy by “When I arrived, I always proud of that,” she said. 33, previously with the design stu- Chloé executives and rejected. The de- sort of had the feeling that the Her stint at Chloé lasted dio at Pierre Balmain rtw, and David signer, in turn, was wary of highly popular house of Chloé had this incredible foun- until 2001. Chaumont, 25, a former assistant to models detracting from the clothes. dation, history and story. It was in need of She added she came away with a Christian Lacroix at Jean Patou. “One time, I decided not to book a breath of fresh air — a new lick of paint. whole new education: “All of a sudden, “The way they worked at the time is Claudia Schiffer again, because all you “And I think I opened up the label to a I had an atelier, where clothes were completely unthinkable today — you had could hear during the entire show was whole new audience, and brought a more handmade, where there was craftsman- one designer working on one part of the the photographers shouting ‘Claudia! masculine conversation into the brand ship. I got to witness the expertise of collection, and a different one in charge Claudia!’” she laughed. “But the models whose roots were more feminine and girly.” the atelier and a fully working fashion of the other,” Sitbon recalled. “The collec- gave the Chloé shows a fantastic energy. McCartney made an immediate im- house first-hand, with all of its history, tion was a total mishmash.” They were part of the success.” pact with her tailored jackets and low- talent and knowledge.” Sitbon was ready to slam the door — Joelle DiDerich rise trousers, boy-meets-girl aesthetic, — saMaNTha coNTi

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WWD MILESTONES

SpiritedImage-building at the house of Chloé has consistently Away supported the iconoclastic essence of its fashions. By Laure Guilbault

Fabien Baron’s current fall campaigns for See By Chloé and Chloé.

PRIZED FOR ITS daywear, Chloé strong, running, like unleashed amazons. shuns the red carpet, thrives in nature The outdoors is a consistent leitmo- and doesn’t need celebrities. tif in campaigns.“The Chloé girl is about Instead, the brand has relied on ac- a lightness of spirit and easy cool. She’s complished photographers and expres- not precious or contrived,” explained sive models to portray its free-spirited, Fabien Baron of Baron & Baron, Chloé’s playful essence and effortless sense of creative agency, which oversees the cam- elegance — values that founder Gaby paigns. “So nature and the outdoors are Aghion held in high regard back in the a fitting context for the Chloé girl. It rein- Fifties, when she created the label. forces that ease and authenticity.” Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Baron, who took over from art di- Matadin, Craig McDean, Terry rector Ezra Petronio, signed his first Richardson and Mario Sorrenti are campaign for the brand this fall, show- among famous names behind the camera, ing Rubik and Suvi Koponen on the while Linda Evangelista, Anja Rubik and top of a building. The duo wear ivory Raquel Zimmermann are among the top sweaters and scarlet trousers from the models who portrayed Chloé’s unapolo- label’s fall collection designed by Clare getically feminine upbeat spirit. Waight Keller. They look like sisters. Van Lamsweerde and Matadin shot Indeed, gangs of girls are key, nine fashion ad campaigns for the label, as seen in van Lamsweerde and the first for fall 2004. In it, blonde mod- Matadin’s spring 2007 campaign fea- els in long, romantic dresses frolic in the turing Trish Goff along with Rubik and Tuileries gardens in Paris. Yet, they are Zimmermann. “They are like a girls

band. That gives the impression of women’s power,” noted Marc Ascoli, a former creative director of the label. Inez van The Chloé girl is independent and sure of herself, but Lamsweerde and there is undeniably a softness to her. Vinoodh Matadin’s “[Chloé girls] are very often delicate, classically ele- spring 2007 gant, not bling-bling. Demure,” said Ascoli, who art direct- campaign. ed campaigns when his long-time partner, Martine Sitbon, was head designer at Chloé, as well as at the beginning of Phoebe Philo’s tenure. One shoot, under the guidance of Philo, took the cam- paign to the wilds of South Africa, with Russian model Anne Vyalitsyna (aka Anne V). “The collection was sunny, with a lot of romantic blouses,” Ascoli recalled. In a similar vein, Karl Lagerfeld’s Chloé campaigns in the Nineties with Evangelista and Naomi Campbell re- semble paintings or vintage photographs, telegraphing a turn-of-the-century elegance. Ascoli is overseeing a large-format coffee-table book on Chloé published by Rizzoli, slated for release in fall 2013. He noted that the different head designers have had dif- ferent visions of the Chloé girl. “Under head designer Martine Sitbon, the Chloé woman was a little bit dandy, determined, modern. Under Karl Lagerfeld, she had the allure of a heroine, she is a magical woman,” he said. “There was a shift [in terms of advertising style] when Stella McCartney came in, in 1996. Stella hired younger photographers such as Liz Collins. The photos are more realistic.” Baron is set to shoot the spring campaign in November.

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wwd milestones Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye Strength From Femininity The “effortless grace” that characterizes the soul of the tant,” the executive said. “chloé is a brand you can only house is behind its flourishing business. By Miles Socha understand if you’re close to it,” he explained, alluding to its subtle col- cHLoe enTers ITs 60th anniversa- es to ensure chloé’s global development. orations, luxurious fabrics and high- ry year in fine fettle, and with robust The brand is slated to open about quality manufacturing. development plans to thrust it further 20 directly operated units this year, The company is also fortifying into fashion’s big leagues. and should end 2012 with about 100 human resources, strengthening de- “The business of chloé has never freestanding boutiques and in-store sign and commercial teams, along been in such good shape,” chloé shops. A new 5,000-square-foot Paris with back-office functions. De la chief executive officer Geoffroy de la flagship on the rue saint Honoré is Bourdonnaye likens it to construct- Bourdonnaye said in an interview, slated to open in november with a ing a foundation for a building that trumpeting 2011 as a record year and light-filled design concept by architect could one day be a high-rise tower. citing strength across geographic re- Joseph Dirand. “We want to grow at a sustainable gions and product categories. “The The updated decor will also be re- pace without sacrificing the soulof year is starting very well.” flected in new stores in new York’s the house,” he said. While parent compagnie soHo district and the Wynn in Las Alongside christian Dior and Financière richemont, whose other Vegas. In Asia, where chloé’s growth Yves saint Laurent, chloé is seen as luxury properties include cartier, is rapid, new locations are planned for one of the key French brands of the Jaeger-Lecoultre and Dunhill, does shanghai, Hong Kong and in Japan. postwar period. not break out figures for its various di- The new store concept, based on a Today, Japan is a key market for visions, chloé is said to have contrib- nude color palette with mineral and chloé, and its signature fragrance, uted to the group’s strong performance wooden elements, will also come in chloé eau de Parfum, has held a policy. The house’s handbag business in fiscal 2012, which ended march 31. tandem with new personalized service number-one ranking there since its was ignited in 2005 by the Paddington, And the world’s second-largest luxury protocols. “We want to get closer [to launch in 2007, the executive noted. a style with a heavy padlock. group by revenue is committing resourc- our customers], the proximity is impor- “china is picking up quite substan- De la Bourdonnaye asserted that an tially. We will have 15 boutiques there “element of reality” combined with a by the end of the year,” he added. luxurious product makes for a compel- By contrast, the company has bare- ling sales proposition. ly scratched the surface in europe, Indeed. The size of the chloé busi- with only four directly operated ness has multiplied more than 30 times stores: two in Paris, one on sloane over the past decade. “That signifies the street in London and another in strength of this house,” he said. marbella, spain. “effortless grace” is a term de While declining to give the break- la Bourdonnaye uses frequently to down of the business by product cat- describe the essence of chloé. “It’s egory, de la Bourdonnaye stressed that never been a logo brand,” he said. “the root of chloé is ready-to-wear” “Women never buy chloé to become and that it still accounts for the major- someone else. ity of sales in its own boutiques. “All the values which underpin Looking ahead, de la Bourdonnaye chloé are also the values modern said the company would focus for the women of today embrace,” de la next three to five years on growing Bourdonnaye added. “It’s all about a rtw, leather goods, shoes, scarves and youthful, free spirit and an effortless, costume jewelry. natural attitude and elegance.” chloé made a quantum leap into He noted that roughly 80 percent leather goods when Phoebe Philo took of chloé’s employees are women. The store in Beirut. over from stella mccartney, who has “That’s the essence of our brand — a staunch anti-fur and anti-leather femininity,” he said.

A decade earlier, the “clothing and ion business is it gives us a third leg to other” segment saw sales grow 7 per- our stool,” Wikstrom said. “We are very cent to 618 million euros, or $546.6 mil- patient. We won’t force things.” lion at average exchange. she characterized chloé as a “sig- While richemont’s long-term com- nificant pillar” of its fashion business. Proud Parent mitment to fashion has occasion- “It’s also one of the most diverse of As A consumer, marty Wikstrom lion euros, or $1.7 billion at average ally been questioned over the years, all our maisons,” she noted, referring appreciates chloé’s face-flattering exchange rates for the period. That Wikstrom stressed that the London- to the fact that the chloé brand ex- color palette, its intricately detailed represents about 13.9 percent of the based conglomerate is putting resourc- tends from its core ready-to-wear and blouses and its marcie bag, which the group’s total revenues. es behind its successful houses, as its leather goods to fragrances and see by executive deems ideal for her fre- “Across the board, it was the best investment to add 20 chloé stores to its chloé, a second fashion line. quent business travels. year we’ve ever had in the business,” network attests. “This house has always been As president and chief execu- Wikstrom said. “What’s important about the fash- about real women,” she enthused. tive officer of compagnie Financière “It’s always had a modesty, and I richemont’s fashion division, par- think that goes back to [founder] ent of chloé, Wikstrom has a host of Marty Wikstrom Gaby [Aghion]. she grew up in a other reasons to appreciate the brand, stiff world of couture, and she in- which in her view could harbor bil- jected effortless style. she kind of lion-dollar potential. freed women — and they looked “Why not?” she said, while not set- beautiful and dressed well, but they ting any timelines to reach that revenue weren’t confined. threshold. “That’s up to the consumer.” “It’s a confident, very self-assured The swiss luxury group does not brand,” Wikstrom continued. “chloé break down its revenues or profits by is less apt to chase trends and in- brand. However, it is believed chloé is stead chase the consumer who loves the largest of its fashion and leather the attitude of chloé.” goods businesses, which also include Wikstrom said the brand per- Azzedine Alaïa, Dunhill, Lancel and sonifies the founder. “she has such shanghai Tang. a head for women. s he really did c hloé is grouped into this to modernize and free women, richemont’s “other business” seg- and we should all be grateful for ment, along with online retailer this contribution to the industry,” net-a-porter and the group’s watch she said. “she’s the one who really component manufacturing activities. had the initial idea of this feminine, For its fiscal year ended march 31, modern, confident, self-assured 2012, revenues in the “other” seg- house providing effortless, rather ment vaulted 27 percent to 1.231 bil- than structured, fashion.” —M.S.

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wwd milestones

A Chloé fragrance is nothing if not Chloé Eau romantic and floral. de Parfum By Jennifer Weil launched How My in 2008. Garden Grows

CHLOE WAS a late bloomer in the fra- Working with an International grance world, with its first scent com- Flavors & Fragrances perfumer, he ing out only in 1974 — more than two learned a lot. “I learned that the ex- decades after the brand’s inaugural tract isn’t like the flower at all,” said ity as the signature scent for women in 2008. That it would be a floral was fashion collection in 1952. Lagerfeld. “Jasmine in extract is the became a strong seller and still figures evident. Simply called Chloé, it was created worst, and I love jasmine flowers.” in the brand’s portfolio. “As soon as you mention Chloé to fra- with Karl Lagerfeld, then the label’s de- Lagerfeld found the process of Chloé’s next major perfume launch grance consumers, the first thing they’d signer, who tried to express olfactively translating his ideas and feelings into came in 1992, with Narcisse, followed say is there are two values: romantic the brand’s romantic, floral essence. a scent both fascinating and difficult: by some smaller introductions, such and floral,” said Mariez, who clarified “I knew I liked heavy perfumes, old “It’s like asking someone without as Chloé Innocence in 1996 and Chloé that it’s a modern romanticism. Collection from 2005. The signature scent was created by In May 2005, Coty Inc. Robertet’s perfumers Michel Almairac L’Eau de Chloé was introduced in February. acquired the brand’s fra- and Amandine Marie and includes grance business as part of notes of rose, magnolia, lily of the val- an $800 million deal with ley and cedarwood. Unilever, which involved Mariez maintained that the signa- the consumer goods giant’s ture scent, which is the brand’s best- portfolio of prestige scent seller, works so well “because it’s a licenses that also included perfect translation of the Chloé spirit Calvin Klein, Cerruti, Vera and brand values.” Wang and Lagerfeld. Chloé Eau de Fleurs, a trio of At the time, that Chloé ac- soliflore scents, was introduced in tivity was “really small,” ac- January 2010. Ye t the second major cording to Françoise Mariez, fragrance launch for Chloé under Coty senior vice president of was Love, Chloé, in 2010. Fronted by marketing for European fra- model Raquel Zimmermann styled as grances at Coty Prestige. Ye t a modern-day Charlie girl, it targets a fast-forward to today, when slightly more mature consumer. The industry sources estimate juice, concocted by Givaudan per- the business rings up more fumers Louise Turner and Nathalie than $100 million in whole- Gracia-Cetto, includes notes of orange sale revenues annually and blossom, pink pepper, lilac, wisteria has been chalking up double- blossom, musks, talc and rice powder. digit gains each year. The Chloé business, whose two Right away, Coty began main brands were subsequently ex- reconstructing the Chloé panded, is a particular hit in Japan, fragrance branch practi- where it ranks first among prestige cally from scratch. To ac- women’s fragrance labels. In Italy, complish that, it looked at Germany and Spain, Chloé figures in archives and the fashion the top 10. It’s in the top 15 in the U.S., perfumes, and I knew I hated green hands to do a sketch. You just can’t mix collection, for instance. where it’s “growing quite fast,” Mariez scents. There are so many of them up a fragrance yourself.” Chloé stands for “femininity,” “ef- said, and in France and the U.K., Chloé around today,” he told WWD in a 1976 The designer predicted that of the fortless chic,” “strength” and “free- lands in the top 25. interview. Lagerfeld was describing 20 or more fragrance introductions dom,” explained Mariez. “Our first step The next major Chloé project will the initial stages of his work on the over the two prior years, only two or rebuilding the fragrance house was to be a women’s fragrance launching fragrance, which was developed with three would still be around a few years really encapsulate in one fragrance next spring. It’s possible that the brand Elizabeth Arden, Chloé’s fragrance li- hence, and he hoped Chloé would be the core values of the brand today.” could ultimately branch out into other censee at the time. among them. That dream became real- So Chloé Eau de Parfum was born beauty product categories, as well.

Shoes from See by Chloé. MORE IS MORE goods in-house and launched under Philo. Carrying as its RALPH TOLEDANO, former footwear licensed to Iris. signature an oversize padlock, chairman and chief executive The Bracelet bag, released the bag became one of the big- officer of Chloé International, in 2002 under then-creative gest “It” bags of the time, shift- is credited with having mas- director Phoebe Philo, was ing several hundred thousand terminded the house’s now among early successes, but the pieces annually and laying the full-fledged product range. big bang came with the launch foundation for an extensive When Toledano came on in 2005 of the Paddington, also leather goods line at Chloé. board in 1999, Chloé was a Among the house’s other modest operation, with one best-selling bags are the Marcie, Paris store and a smattering of Chloé’s Alice bag the Paraty, Angie and Alice. wholesale accounts in Europe is a bestseller. Re-editions of Chloé’s and the U.S. Paddington and Silverado bags During his first year at and the Eventail clutch will Chloé, Toledano introduced an feature among 16 emblematic eyewear line, licensed to L’Amy. archive designs to be celebrat- The brand changed partners ed in the house’s 60th anniver- this January, however, signing a sary Re-edition collection for design director of the collection. a license with Children licensing agreement with New spring 2013, along with a re- A See by Chloé bag line Worldwide Fashion for the York-based Marchon Eyewear issue of wooden wedge sandals made its debut in 2008. Chloé Children’s Wear line, Inc. to manufacture and dis- launched in 2006 under Philo. The first See by Chloé store with the first collection tribute its sun and ophthalmic The launch of the house’s opened in Japan in February launched for fall 2007. Emilie collections. The first deliveries See by Chloé franchise, mean- 2003, growing to 27 stores inter- Gaulupeau, head of brands started rolling out this month. while, which is produced nationally today. Two openings at CFW, overseeing Chloé A swimwear line was added under license by Italy’s SINV are planned for 2013, with their Children’s Wear and other la- in 2001, licensed to Albisetti SpA, dates back to 2001, under locations yet to be disclosed. bels, said, “This added to our SpA. Then in 2002, the com- then-design director Stella The house declined to provide portfolio a brand that reso- pany brought production of McCartney. In March 2011, sales figures for the line. nates luxury and couture.” handbags and small leather Laure de Sade was appointed In 2007, Chloé signed — Katya Foreman

w28b012a;8.indd 1 9/27/12 1:37 PM 09272012133917 YEars C H LOstYlE é

To 60 years of sTyle!

As the ultimate in feminine couture and the pioneer of

prêt-à-porter, Chloé continues to produce brilliant fashion

and celebrated designers. We are truly inspired. CCongratulations, Chloé! To 60 years of sTyle!

14 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2012

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WWD MILESTONES A Playful·· Look Back

Capturing the essence of a brand with big personality. By Miles Socha

TWELVE GRAND windows. Mannequins “It really is an extraordinary archive,” clustered together. A list of quirky names Clark enthused. “It was no hardship.” for dresses. The other Chloé designers fea- These are among the elements fash- tured are Gérard Pipart, Maxime de la ion curator Judith Clark employed in Falaise, Karl Lagerfeld, Martine Sitbon, the exhibition “Chloé: Attitudes” to Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo and telegraph, respectively, three celebrat- Hannah MacGibbon. ed characteristics of the brand: light- Rather than chronologically, Clark ness, community and playfulness. One could argue that the choice of venue itself — the funky contemporary art museum Palais de Tokyo — is itself It’s like using the a signifier of the brand’s youthful, care- free spirit. archive as a mood Clark, an Australian whose back- ground is in architecture, also played up the Art Deco features of the brand and board and behaving the building, inaugurated in 1937. She assembled some 85 outfits, 100 drawings like a magpie. and 50 photos for the lively anniversary showcase, which opens to the public on — JUDITH CLARK, CURATOR Saturday and runs through Nov. 18. The work of nine key designers is opted for a thematic exhibition. A row showcased, from founder Gaby Aghion of windows illuminates 12 iron display to incumbent Clare Waight Keller. boxes, each based on themes ranging Iconic looks — such as Aghion’s simple from obvious — Art Deco and Horses — jersey Embrun dress from the fall 1960 to quirky, as in Bananas, a wink to one collection — are displayed alongside of Philo’s show invitations, in which an lesser-known designs. inflatable banana was photographed in

·· Inspired by a Chloé campaign photographed in a field of wheat, one installation

features clothes GOIZE FRANCOIS with nature motifs. BY PHOTO

various tourist locations. ily,” Clark said. “Some of the beading For Power, Clark assembled sev- was a surprise to me. I expected the eral dresses with wave patterns, and silk blouses.” one embroidered with lightbulbs. Changing with the times, Chloé Hats from the archive of the late collections included graphic prints in Anna Piaggi finish off the looks. the Sixties, groovy chiffon daywear in “It’s like using the archive as a the Seventies, tongue-in-cheek surre- mood board and behaving like a mag- alist elements in the Eighties. pie,” she said. “There’s always a knowing playful- Clark noticed that in Chloé ads, ness,” Clark noted. “It’s not stark.” girls are often whispering or chatting For example, while Aghion and her together. She echoes the gesture in husband surrounded themselves with the exhibition by placing mannequins intellectuals, she referenced them and in close proximity. In one scene, mod- their ideas in a lighthearted way. els stand together in a field of wheat, The curator was particularly tick- their hair braided together. led by the clever names she chose Like many European brands, for dresses, anointing one Aubrey in- Chloé only recently began assembling stead of the more obvious Beardsley, and cataloguing its archive, com- a playful nod to the English illustrator pelled by a strong heritage trend in and author. Other fun ones included fashion partly fanned by rapid growth Boomerang and Bois de Boulogne, il- in China, whose consumers value lustrating Aghion’s “mental elasticity.” names with history and pedigree. Photographs by Helmut Newton, Guy “What I’m doing is gleaning ele- Bourdin, Jeanloup Sieff, David Bailey ments of [Chloé’s] history through and Deborah Turbeville offer still more surviving fragments,” Clark said. interpretations of the Chloé look. “It’s very important that I’m an out- Clark was particularly dazzled by sider. This is not an inside job.…They Lagerfeld’s sketches and collages illus- called on me as a fashion neutral.” trating his far-flung cultural references To be sure, Clark played up Chloé’s — from Italian friezes to Pop Art. legacy of “wearable fashion” as op- “A book on these drawings needs posed to “high-concept” or only-for-the- to be done,” she said. “The breadth red-carpet designs. After all, Aghion of references is really extraordinary.” founded the brand to create an infor- The Chloé exhibition inaugu- mal, yet stylish and luxurious wardrobe rates a cycle of shows at the Palais for women no longer constrained by de Tokyo dubbed “Fashion Program” couture and a coddled lifestyle. and organized by esteemed curators “It can be casual even though it’s at the invitation of Palais president beautifully made. It’s daywear, primar- Jean de Loisy.