Kensal Green Cemetery to Ravenscourt Park Station
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Kensal Green Cemetery to Ravenscourt Park, LSW via the summit of 7 Hammersmith and Fulham Start Kensal Green Cemetery — NW10 5NU Finish Ravenscourt Park station (District Line, Richmond and Ealing Broadway branches) — W6 0UG Distance 6.07km Duration 1 hour 14 minutes Ascent 12.4m Access Kensal Green station (Bakerloo Line and Overground) near start of section. Ravenscourt Park station at end of section. Buses at start of section. East Acton station (Central Line) en route. Buses at East Acton, Uxbridge Road, and Askew Road en route. Facilities Cafés and shops at start of section; all facilities at end of section. Shops at Old Oak Common Lane en route. All facilities on Askew Road en route. Toilets and café in Ravenscourt Park near end of section. 7.1 Kensal Green Cemetery (bus). 0m 7.2 WNW along L pvt of Harrow Road; L onto Scrubs Lane; R pvt before canal; 1800m under rail line to end of security fence on R. 7.3 R into Wormwood Scrubs; L of central tree clump; bear L to road opposite 1700m school; ahead on Erconwald Road; L at end to A40 (bus). 7.4 Cross A40; R pvt of Old Oak Road; cross Uxbridge Road (bus); Askew Road 1390m to Orchard Tavern (bus). 7.5 Ashchurch Grove; cross Goldhawk Road; enter park; L then R to lake; 1270m L round lake then L to café; R on straight path (S); L before bridge; R on Ravenscourt Road; under tracks to Ravenscourt Park stn. © 2017-21 IG Liddell London Summits Walk 7 – 1 This section begins 7.1 at the corner of Alma Place, outside the main entrance to Kensal Green Cemetery on Harrow Road. The start of the section is served by the 18 bus route (from Euston, Baker Street and Marylebone) and is near Kensal Green station. Kensal Green was the fi rst of the Magnifi cent Seven suburban cemeteries which were opened during the nineteenth century, Harrow Road, at the when inner London had begun to run out of burial space. It was summit of the Borough of modelled on the Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris, and was opened Hammersmith and Fulham in 1833. Among the 56000 who are buried in Kensal Green, there is the usual broad range of people. Isambard Kingdom Brunel, the engineer, is here with his parents, as are Charles Blondin (tightrope-walker), Charles Babbage (computer pioneer), the authors Wilkie Collins and Anthony Trollope, and two children of George III, along with one of his grandsons. There is a cenotaph to the Reformers’ Movement of Robert Owen, Elizaeth Fry, and their peers. The pioneering nurse Mary Seacole (see below) is buried in the adjoining Roman Catholic cemetery, on the west side of the main burial ground. On the cemetery side of Harrow Road, cross into the 7.2 Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham at Alma Place, and continue for 400m to reach the borough summit, 46m above sea level. This stretch of Harrow Road is replete with Brazilian and other Lusophone businesses: the summit is located near the bus stop (18 Scrapyards on Scrubs Lane route) outside the Brazilian convenience shop called Tradição de Portugal / Delicias do Brasil. Continue along Harrow Road, which bends to the left as you descend away from the railway (which runs from Kensal Rise into Willesden Junction ahead). Pass the Centro Galego de Londres (serving the local population of Galicians, from north-western Spain) on your left and, with the modern 7 – 2 London Summits Walk © 2017-21 IG Liddell yellow-brick fl ats of Brunel Court on your right, turn left down Scrubs Lane, crossing over the West Coast Main Line railway, whose trains speed to Glasgow, Manchester and more. Just past Hythe Road (over on your right), you will be grateful that our summits on the London Summits Walk are defi ned as being strictly at street level — an alp of scrap metal towers over its fence. Beyond the scrapyards, cross over to the right-hand pavement before you reach the canal: between the road and the canal lies a tiny park: this is the Mary Seacole Memorial Garden. Mary Seacole (1805-1881) was a Jamaican woman of Scots and African descent who nursed behind the lines in the Crimean War, between Balaclava and Sevastopol; at her establishment there, she was visited by the celebrated chef Alexis Soyer, who later noted favourable opinions of Seacole given by Florence Nightingale at Scutari. In later life, she suff ered fi nancially, but a fund which was set up to sustain her could boast the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh among its patrons. She died in Paddington in 1881 and is buried in the Roman Catholic cemetery in Kensal Green (not, as incorrectly noted on a local school’s interpretation board in the park, in Kensal Rise). Among many modern remembrances, Brunel, Salford, Birmingham City and De Montford universities have named facilities after her, and when a former military hospital in Surrey was drafted in as a rehabilitation centre for suff erers from Covid-19, it was renamed the Mary Seacole Centre. Follow Scrubs Lane over the Grand Union Canal and the Great Western Railway, continuing under yet another railway (the London Overground from Willesden Junction towards Shepherd’s Bush). In The Prime Minister, the fi fth of his six Palliser novels, Anthony Trollope (who is buried in Kensal Green Cemetery) sets a suicide scene at what he calls the “Tenway Junction”. This was based on Willesden Junction, where many railway lines converge. After passing under the railway line, walk to the far end of an advertising hoarding on your right. There is then a short grey security fence with a gate; at the next tree, a brick path goes off to the right. Wormwood Scrubs Park © 2017-21 IG Liddell London Summits Walk 7 – 3 Clouds gather over Take this path through a fringe of scrubland, and walk Wormwood Scrubs 7.3 out to the broad expanse of grass which is Wormwood Scrubs Park. Make straight across the park, aiming for the left-hand edge of the prominent clump of trees and bushes in the middle (negotiating the touchlines of the football fi elds, of course, if matches are in progress). This is a wide expanse, and is noted for the variety of birds and other wildlife. Continue past the clump of trees, and keep on ahead until a path veers off at about 60° to the left, making for a gap in another clump of trees. The corner of the famous prison — HMP Wormwood Scrubs in formal parlance — is farther over to the left. Go through the gap in the trees, and follow the path out to a road at a T-junction, with a school over to your left. You have reached the edge of the East Acton Estate, built up in the 1920s on what had been Acton Wells Farm. East Acton has long featured as the butt of comedy, appearing (yes, even before the estate’s construction) in the late nineteenth century in The Diary of a Nobody by George and Weedon Grossmith; the Sykes BBC television sitcom of the 1970s (with Eric Sykes and Hatt ie Jacques) Erconwald Street, was set in a (fi ctional) house in East Acton. Two decades earlier, an East Acton episode of The Goon Show on BBC radio had lamented the lack of earthquakes in East Acton. The East Acton Estate was where author Peter Ackroyd grew up: such street-names as Wulfstan and Erconwald helped, he said, generate an interest in the history of London and of Britain. This large council estate was built with a late nod to the Arts and Crafts movement, with the precise intention to give 7 – 4 London Summits Walk © 2017-21 IG Liddell an olde-worlde villagey feel to the area, but using modern materials. Continue straight ahead along the full length of Erconwald Street, passing under the Tube line at East Acton station. At the end of Erconwald Street, with the striking Roman Catholic church of St Aidan of Lindisfarne (built in 1961) ahead, bear left onto Old Oak Common Lane, keeping on its left-hand pavement to reach Claydon Gardens park, Westway, the A40. Turn left for a few metres to fi nd the (divided) Acton pedestrian crossing over to Old Oak Road. Cross over onto the right-hand pavement of Old Oak 7.4 Road: beyond the one-way system, there is one of the saddest litt le parks in London, Claydon Gardens. Unprepossessing it may be, but there might just be a link with the Mary Seacole Park met earlier. Sir Harry Verney gave over some rooms at Claydon House, in the Chilterns, as workspace for the designing of hospitals by Florence Nightingale. Just keep going on, with the park on your right, towards Uxbridge Road, passing on your way another brick-barn church similar to St Martin’s in Kensal Green. This building was constructed as St Saviour’s Anglican church, which became a prime Anglican resource for deaf people, but it has been re-purposed and was recently consecrated as the mother church of the Syriac Orthodox Church in London, as the Cathedral of St Thomas the Apostle, of the Patriarchate of Antioch and All the East (it somehow elevates the area from being called plain old Acton — or is that just another echo of the Goons’ and Grossmiths’ view of the district?). Cross Uxbridge Road, the old coach road to Oxford and beyond, now superseded in that respect by the Westway, and continue ahead into Askew Road, past houses and then through a shopping area.