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A Journey from Tripoli Across the Sahara to Lake Chad Author(S): Hanns Vischer Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol

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A Journey from Tripoli Across the Sahara to Lake Chad Author(S): Hanns Vischer Source: the Geographical Journal, Vol A Journey from Tripoli across the Sahara to Lake Chad Author(s): Hanns Vischer Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 33, No. 3 (Mar., 1909), pp. 241-245+247-249+251- 253+255-257+259-261+263-264 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1776898 Accessed: 27-06-2016 04:35 UTC Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at http://about.jstor.org/terms JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers), Wiley are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to The Geographical Journal This content downloaded from 131.104.62.10 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 04:35:11 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms The Geographical Journal. No. 3. MARCH, 1909. VOL. XXXII. A JOURNEY FROM TRIPOLI ACROSS THE SAHARA TO LAKE CHAD.* By HANNS VISCHER. THE travellers who have left Tripoli for the interior represent such an important page in the exploration of Africa and the history of this Society, that I think you will permit me to recall their names before laying before you an account of my own journey. In 1799 Frederic Conrad Hornemann returned from Tripoli to Murzuk, where he had arrived from Cairo on his way to Bornu and Nupe. Joseph Ritchie and Lieut. Francis Lyon followed, but they only got as far as Murzuk. In 1822 Major Denham, Clapperton, and Oudney crossed the desert from Tripoli to bring back the first definite news from the Chad countries and the ttausa states. Dr. Henry Barth left the coast in 1850 with Richardson and Overweg, and was followed by Dr. Vogel three years later. When Barth returned alone, he had seen the Niger at Timbuktu and the Binue at Jola, had crossed the Shari, and been a prisoner in Wadai. Moritz von Beurmann, who was murdered in Wadai, like Vogel, left Tripoli in 1862. The first to reach the West Coast from the north was Gerhardt Rohlfs, who started in 1865 and reached Lagos by way of Bornu, Bauchi, and Illorin. Four years later Dr. Gustav Nachtigal left Tripoli with presents from King Wilhelm of Prussia for Sheikh Omar of Bornu on his famous journey which took him to Tibesti, Borku, and Kanem, and finally across Wadai, Darfur, and Kordofan to Khartum. The first officer of European administration which during the following years had claimed the countries from the West Coast to Lake * Read at the Royal Geographical Society, January 11, 1909. Map, p. 352. No. III.--MARCHII, 1909.] s This content downloaded from 131.104.62.10 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 04:35:11 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 242 A JOURNEY FROM TRIPOLI Chad, a Frenchmzan, Lieut. Colonel Monteil, arrived in Tripoli from Bornu. The countries where the former travellers had risked their lives were now opened to European enterprise, and the best strip of land from the Oil Riversto Lake Chad had been secured to British interests bythe founder of the Royal Niger Company, Sir George Taubman Goldie. I left Tripoli in July, 1906, as an officer of the Government of Northern Nigeria to join my post in Bornu. The circumstances have considerably changed in Tripoli since the days when Colonel Warrington, the British Consul, whose word was a passport throughout the Sahara, put Eulropean travellers on their road to the south. After the centuries of wars and revolutions which devastated the Barbary States, Tripoli and Fezzan came to depend entirely on trade. The trans-Saharan trade to Bornu and the Hausa state soon degenerated into slave traffic. Then following the official prohibition along the coast, British Administration stopped the export of slaves from Kano and Bornu. Slave traffic ceased altogether, and with it the greatest source of income of the Arab traders, the influential people in Tripoli and Fezzan. European administration on both sides of Tripoli, in Egypt and Tunis, has, in the eyes of many less enlightened inhabitants of the vilayet, made Tripoli a last refuge of the faithful in North Africa, an uncon- taminated country which should at all costs be protected against European influences. Moreover, certain newspapers had spoken of a European occupation of Tripoli. All this made my proposed journey along the old caravan route a matter of the greatest difficulty, and it was after months of delay that I at last saw the palm-groves of Tripoli dis- appear behind the sand-dunes. I had with me some thirty negroes, freed slaves, mostly from the Chad countries, whom I had drilled into a kind of escort, and Mecca pilgrims from Nigeria, who wished me, an officer of their Government, to repatriate them. Some fanatical intrigue drove away the best men I had; only the very poor remained, and such as had good reason to leave the coast. Besides, to retain them, I was forced to take with me the men's women and children, an accessory which does not help a traveller across the desert when each meal and every drink of water must be calculated. I hired camels at Tripoli from the Megarha, a Beduin tribe living on the northern border of Fezzan, to carry my loads as far as Murzuk. Here I bought some animals and hired others from the Tubbn Xeshade as far as Bilma. From Bilma to Bornu I was allowed to march with a French expedition, whose commandant Gadel very kindly supplied me with transport. The road took us first from Tripoli to the foot of the mountains which run parallel to the coast-line from Iorocco to the Greater Syrtes through Tunis and Tripoli, leading in and out amongst great sand-dunes This content downloaded from 131.104.62.10 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 04:35:11 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms ACROSS THE SAHARA TO LAKE CHAD. 243 and past occasional patches of cultivation and little villages. We entered the flat-topped hills at Gharian by the Wadi Erba. From Gharian the caravan route passes almost due south over numerous ridcges and across waddis, running uniformly from west to east, to the village and oasis of Misda in the Wadi Sofejin. Then we turned slightly east to the Wadi Zemzem and the wells of Tabonia, over freshly broken plateaus and deep-cut valleys. Tabonia lies on the northern edge of the HIamada el Homra, the "red wilderness" that closes the mountainous region towards Fezzan and the south. Where the road crosses it the Hamada is 150 miles broad- an immense plateau of red rock with hardly any vegetation and only one route across. Barth and his expedition used this route, only they marched on to E1 Hassi, a little south of the well where we stopped. This well, called by the Arabs Weina, lies in a deep valley, which breaks into the rocky escarpment, the " Gate of the HIIamada." For three days then we marched over immense fields of broken rock, the ruins of a former plateau, to the first valley of Fezzan, the Wadi Shiati, and the village of Wunzerig. Pointing due south again, the road passed over a regular sea of sand-dunes to the low level of the Wadi Gerbi and Tekertiba. A steep wall of rock closes the valley to the south, the black colour of the stones in beautiful contrast to the bright sand-dunes on the other side. A steep mountain path, the road climbed the hills to the high level which gradually slopes down towards the depression of Murzuk and the open desert. Many palm groves on either side of the road showed the presence of water near the surface. Murzuk itself stands in a line of depressions which are marked by uneven plantations of date-palms, along which the road passes to the east for some days. Then it turns to the south again till it strikes another depression at Gatrun. The oasis of Gatrun is protected from the drifting sand-dunes to the east by a ridge of decaying rocks, which rise to their highest point at the southern extremity called Ras Tejerri after the last village in the oasis. Gatrun is the most southern one of the various oases collectively called Fezzan. From Tripoli to Tejerri we had marched forty-three days. South of Gatrun the real desert began as we marched quickly past the Bir Meshru over broad serirs and large waterless valleys to the black mountains of Tummo or E1 War, "the difficult ones," as the Arabs name them. From Gatrun to the camps south of Tummo the country was bare of any vegetation, and many of the old water-holes have disappeared. In long marches, always in due southerly direction, we covered the wide stretches between the uninhabited oases of Jat and Jeggeba, and then, as the country opened out, and wide sandy plains took the place of the mountains, the oasis of Kauwar came into sight. This oasis, like Gatrun, has a ridge of hills which guard it to the east from the encroaching sand. Many villages lie at the foot of s2 This content downloaded from 131.104.62.10 on Mon, 27 Jun 2016 04:35:11 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 244 A JOURNEY FROM TRIPOLI these rocks in the well-watered depression along which we passed to Bilma, the most southern point.
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