Photography for Architecture and Real Estate Page 01 Color, Color, Color

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Photography for Architecture and Real Estate Page 01 Color, Color, Color Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 01 Color, Color, Color As you work in architecture photography you will be presented with locations that require you to manage the color. It is imperative that you learn to match your strobe lights to the ambient lights sources and sometimes that is easier said than done. The light that exists all around us is ambient or available light. The sun, light from a streetlight, and the interior lighting in the building are all considered ambient light. Often times these light sources are not the same color as daylight having a different Kelvin temperature. Each of these light sources, such as florescent, sodium vapor, mercury vapor, and incandescent all have a differ- ent color spectrum. When one of these is the main light source in the building you are photographing and using day- light settings on your digital camera, you will have a color shift in the direction of that light sources color temperature. For example, Cool White fluorescence tends to turn green while sodium vapor's are very amber in color and with daylight settings the picture will take on that color shift. If I am shooting for a home builder for example and one wall that is white has a color shift they may ask what I am thinking. What if you are shooting for Miller Paint and capturing home interi- ors? If the color balance due to light sources makes the paints off color, there lies another prob- lem. Managing color is not that difficult. You essentially determine what the color balance is for the available lights and mixed with any daylight, then make a determination on how to correct this. As a photographer you need to recognize color issues and take action to correct for it. If you are a digital photographer you’re certainly aware of auto white balance (AWB) and custom white balance (CWB) settings on your digital camera and these can work pretty well, but only in a few situations. All photos and text © Charlie Borland, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Charlie Borland Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 02 For example if you were shooting a house interior that had daylight coming through the window with tungsten ceiling spotlights and a florescent fixture in the kitchen you actually have three dif- ferent light sources and color temperatures. So the question becomes "which one do you set your custom white balance to?" Auto white balance does a pretty good job of compromising but in this situation the camera can be fooled if there's a heavy emphasis in one particular light source. For many photographers set- ting the camera to auto white balance is the solution, but it does not fix color, it just finds a compromise and in situations like I just described, the result is less than optimal. The photogra- pher has to spend quite a bit of time on the computer adjusting incorrect colors. Here is an example of mixed light: day- light from the windows, fluorescent in the kitchen, and tungsten in the dining room. Very off-color. All photos and text © Charlie Borland, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Charlie Borland Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 03 The presets on digital cameras are rarely much help either and they are for JPEG anyway, not RAW. You should be shooting RAW for sure! The color coming from a green fluorescent light fix- ture mixed with a little bit of window light creates a whole new color so neither the preset for florescent or daylight presets will achieve the desired results in these mixed light situations. There are other options that you can pursue to obtain good color balance within your scene. One is to overpower the ambient light with strobes and use a fast shutter speed which denies the ambient light into your exposure, but this often results in an unreal looking photograph. Am- bient light is real light and often is needed in creating a photograph that is believable so by eliminating that light in your scene you create an unrealistic and unbelievable image. Here are two examples shot in a home and showing a color shift. The image on the left is uncor- rected while the image right used a color meter to more accurately compensation for the color shift. All photos and text © Charlie Borland, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Charlie Borland Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 04 Ambient Light: Using it and Correcting for it. As mentioned previously, Ambient light is available light and often, light you have no control over. Sometimes you can turn indoor ambient light off, but its when you can’t, that making ad- justments in your shooting approach are required. Sources could include lights that are tungsten, sodium or mercury vapor, fluorescent, and often there is a combination of more than one of these light sources at a location. These days, most homes you will photograph will have Tungsten colored lights and occasionally fluorescents. Each light source has a color and it’s rated in Kelvin Color Temperature with daylight being 5500K. Tungsten at 3200K is amber, sodium vapor are very orange/red around 2100K, and Metal Halide are closer to daylight. (3.1)Kelvin temperature color relationship: Amber warmer warm Daylight cool cooler blueish blue 3200K 3800K 4500K 5500K 6200k 6800 7500K 8000K Kelvin is used as a measurement standard and is most often associated with the measurement of color temperature of light sources Color temperature is based upon the principle that a black body radiator emits light whose color depends on the temperature of the radiator. Black bodies with temperatures below about 4000 K appear reddish whereas those above about 7500 K ap- pear bluish. Color temperature is important in the fields of image projection and photography where a color temperature of approximately 5500 K is required to match “daylight” film emul- sions. Digital still works this way but is more flexible. All photos and text © Charlie Borland, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Charlie Borland Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 05 There are different fluorescent lights, but the most common is Cool White. They have a Kelvin temperature around 4000K, warmer than daylight, but they also produces a green cast. Fluores- cents not only need a correction for the blue/red shift, but need filtration to bring the green part of the spectrum into line. (there are lots of fluorescent light colors with cool white the most common) For the sake of explaining color theory, this lesson will illustrate points as if you were shooting with daylight film. I’ll address digital white balance later in this lesson. We will discuss first, how to filter for ambient light before we address adding strobes to a shoot setup. (3.2)The following is a color chart of light sources and their respective Kelvin temperature. Artificial Light sources: Candle Flame 1800K Sodium Vapor 2100K 40 Watt Bulb 2600K 75 Watt Bulb 2800K 100Watt Bulb 2900K 200 Watt Bulb 3000K Tungsten 3200K Mercury Vapor 3300K Photoflood Lamp 3400K Carbon Arc 5000K H.M.I. 5500K Daylight: Sunlight, sunrise or sunset 2800-3000K Sunlight; one hour after sunrise/sunset 3200-3400K Sunlight; two hours after sunrise/before sunset 3900-4100K Direct sunlight midday 5000-5500K Overcastsky 6000-8000K All photos and text © Charlie Borland, all rights reserved worldwide. No form of reproduction or usage - including copying, altering, or saving of digital image and text files - is permitted without the express written permission of Charlie Borland Photography For Architecture and Real Estate Page 06 An example: Let’s say you go into a office to photograph the interior. The first thing you need to do is deter- mine how much ambient light you will use. Since you are shooting an architectural interior then you will use ambient light to achieve a natural lighting feel. Determine next, what the color balance is before you even think about setting up your strobes. You can do this by looking at the light sources and the markings on the tubes. By using a color temperature meter and I use the Minolta color meter. These are not made anymore so the Se- konic Pro Digi is the best out there. Once you have determined where you will be photographing and know that you will be mixing your daylight strobes with ambient light, you take a color meter reading to determine what you will be dealing with. If your reading is 4000K, that tells you that the light is warmer than day- light. Remember that Tungsten is amber and rated 3200K, so 4000k is on the way to becoming Tungsten. If you took a pic- ture now with a daylight WB it would have a slight amber cast. The color wheel is universal in its meaning and works here just as easily. If your ambient light is green you add magenta, the opposite of green, to eliminate the green shift. This principal works the same no matter the color. Now we don’t have an option to add Magenta on our cameras unless you dig in deep to the menus.
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