Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Download the Full Article As Pdf ⬇︎

-Leste — Off the Beaten Path Text and photos by Brandi Mueller

19 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste

View from the monument in Timor-Leste (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: Anthias, damselfish and anemonefish with staghorn, leather and brain corals

Admittedly, I knew almost Other research on the Internet did faces and the question of, “Where Timor means “east” in Bahasa nothing about Timor-Leste not give Timor-Leste’s dive secrets is that?” Initially, all I knew was that Indonesian, so the name transla- away. Located within the Coral it was somewhere in the vicinity of tes to “East East.” Now officially until I started seeing a lot Triangle, which contains the most the islands of (but was named Timor-Leste, “Leste” trans- of great underwater ima- marine biodiversity on the planet, its own country). lates to “east” in Portuguese. The ges online of the diving it was boasted to be some of the Northwest of Darwin, , Tetum (local language) version that could be found there. most pristine diving left on earth— the island of Timor hosts two coun- is Timur Lorosa’e (which it is also an untouched area and mostly tries. Timor-Leste is mostly situated sometimes called) and “Lorosa’e” I became curious and star- not dived. But there were so few on the eastern side of the island, means “east” in Tetum. So, no ted following a local dive dive reports or pictures; it seemed and to the west, is the Indonesian matter how or in what langua- operator’s Instagram feed, like few people were diving there, province of East Nusa Tenggara. ge you say it, the country is “East watching them post daily or even going into the country. I Often, the Indonesian side of the East.” The longer, most official wanted to find out about this off- island is called West Timor, but there name is the Democratic Republic photos of cuttlefish, nudi- the-beaten-path destination and is also a small enclave of Timor- of Timor-Leste. branchs, peacock mantis experience it for myself. Leste within the Indonesia side of shrimp and beautiful reef- the island, which is also often cal- Brutal past Where is Timor-Leste? led West Timor. Confused yet? One cannot discuss the cur- scapes. Where was this In the weeks leading up to my trip, What is now Timor-Leste used rent state of this country without After climbing over 500 stairs, one place and how did I not anytime I said I was headed to to be called (and is sometimes remembering the brutal, not-so- can visit the seventh tallest Jesus know about it? Timor-Leste, I was greeted to blank still referred to as) . long-ago, past. Colonized by statue on earth, Cristo Rei of Dili. Pink anemonefish

20 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel FREEDIVE DEEPER Snorkeler | Safe Buddy | Freediver | Specialties | Instructor

A healthy reef with many different types of corals and sponges

the Portuguese in the 16th Guerrilla forces fought back century, it was a colony of against Indonesia throughout until 1975 (except that time, but the country for a short while when the was essentially kept silent Japanese took over during about what was happening WWII). After the Carnation within it until 1991 when the Master the art of freediving with NAUI. Develop Revolution in Portugal, the world saw reports of the Dili the technique and confidence needed to enjoy Portuguese began with- Massacre. This demonstration drawing from its colonies, against Indonesian occupiers diving in a whole new way. Using Performance included East Timor. In 1975, started off peacefully and Freediving International (PFI) qualified material, as the Portuguese left, there ended with over 250 demon- was a revolution for inde- strators killed in the Santa NAUI offers the most cutting-edge and safest pendence won by a party Cruz cemetery. Journalists training standards in the sport. Learn the skills known as the . This broadcast the events, show- lasted for nine days before ing the rest of the world what that allow you to comfortably enjoy the underwater Indonesia launched an inva- was happening in this small world and improve your breath-holding ability! sion backed by American, country. Australian and British support. Finally, in 1999, after Provided with weapons, Indonesian President Indonesia easily took the Suharto resigned, the United province as its own. Nations was able to take For 25 violent years, over East Timor though the Indonesia occupied East United Nations Transitional Timor with an estimated 45 Administration in East Timor. THE DEFINITION OF DIVING FREEDI ER percent of the population The year 2001 saw the first @NAUIWorldwide being killed in genocide, as election, and the new con- well as from lack of resour- stitution was approved in [email protected] | +1 813.628.6284 www.naui.org/certifications/freediving/ ces resulting in death from 2002, which was also when diseases and malnutrition. it was recognized as inde- Large barrel sponges on reef

21 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Timor-Leste

Lionfish on reef (above); Pregnant male seahorse (right)

pendent by the UN. The UN ended house with several rooms to rent its peacekeeping mission in 2012. with shared facilities, as well as With the revolution behind them studio apartments. I stayed in one and gaining their much-deserved of the spacious, well-furnished stu- independence, the country today dio apartments, and it was great. seems to be one on the upturn. There was a small grocery store just down the road, so I was able Dili to get the basics and make myself While my direct flight from Bali to breakfast in the morning as well as Timor-Leste’s of Dili was a few lunches. It was nice to have on time (and less than two hours this option, and it gave my stay flight time), my previous flights a bit of a homey feel, which was from North Sulawesi to Bali had really nice. been such a mess of flight delays There are not a lot of accom- and missed connections, I just modation options in Dili (or the barely made the flight to Dili. I arri- rest of the country) as tourism has ved in a traveler’s daze of exhaus- not yet taken off, and Dive Timor tion and disorientation, but soon Lorosae is rated as one of the best found myself at Dive Timor Lorosae places to stay. There is a hotel and its on-site accommodations. in town, but it seems like more The dive center offers several guesthouses and small hotels are lodging options to suit all types popping up, which is a good sign, of travelers, including back- suggesting tourism is increasing. packer-dorm-style rooms, a guest-

22 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel

THIS PAGE: Woven mats were laid out for divers to prepare their gear—a bril- liant way to keep sand off the equip- ment; The dive center's van drove right up to the surf for a beach dive (right); Fishing boat on the beach (below); Curious children stopped by to watch divers prepare their equip- ment and enter the water (lower left)

Diving covered in dust, we arrived at an entirely and we assemb- After going to sleep quite early, I woke empty beach, and the driver backed up led our gear on up refreshed from my travels and ready and parked just a few feet from where the mats (what to dive. I became aware quite quickly the waves were breaking the shore. Two a brilliant way that it was the rainy season and probably woven mats were laid out in the sand, to try to keep not the best time of the year to dive the sand off here, but that meant it was also the slow everything). season and I was the only diver at the The driver hel- dive center for most of the week. With ped us into our my private dive guide (the perks of being gear, and we walked right into the waves. by moorish idols as big as dinner plates the only diver) and our driver, we loaded The bottom quickly sloped downward, and a midnight snapper that was pro- up a van with tanks and gear, and set off and not far from shore, it dropped off into bably two feet long. east of Dili along the coast. a mini-wall on either side. I had been war- We swam past a gorgonian sea fan Being no stranger to the bad roads of ned there might be some current and that that was over 12ft across, and I saw my the third world, the roads outside of Dili we would decide which way to go based guide stop to look for pygmy seahorses. were some of the worst I had ever seen. on those conditions. But there was no cur- I thought to myself, “The fan is too big— We bumped and jolted along the unpa- rent, so we went in the dir­ection my dive there’s no chance of finding this finger- ved, pot-holed road, often with sheer guide said was his favorite. nail-sized seahorse on such a big fan.” cliffs (and no guard rails) on our right side The seasonal rain and wind contributed Huge barrel sponges and other sea fans and occasionally slammed to a stop, to poor visibility, but even with only about all seemed to be super-sized and cove- dodging children, motorbikes and live- 10m of viz, the reef was nothing short of red in many colored crinoids. stock. The question, “Where am I?” rolled glorious. It really did look untouched, with The reef looked very different from through my mind more than once. many different species of coral growing many other beautiful reefs I had seen But after about 90 minutes and both like a beautiful garden of color and varie- within the Coral Triangle and around the the inside and outside of the van being ty. And the fish were huge! I was shocked Indonesian islands. Trying to put my finger

23 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Midnight snapper and sea fan on reef; Crinoids in many different colors on sponge; "Shawn the Sheep" nudibranchs; Pikachu nudibranch; Napoleon snake eel

food, Indian cuisine and several shop, Letefoho Specialty Coffee one who quite fast food options. Roaster, serving locally grown enjoys coffee, While walking around the and roasted coffee. Coffee is I made this litt- waterfront area in front of the the second largest export for le spot a daily dive center, just a five-minute Timor-Leste, and you can find it in afternoon stop walk away, I found a small coffee many Starbucks blends. As some- to chase away the post-dive sleepiness. Muck diving on what was different, it dawned Dining The weather turned against me name in its entirety, but we found on me: The difference was there Just upstairs from the dive on day two with more wind and a Napoleon snake eel, Pikachu were very few divers. It may be center is the very popular rain, so we decided to stay clo- nudibranchs, a beautiful purp- just my personal assumption, but Castaways restaurant and ser to Dili and check out Tasi Tolu, le seahorse, frogfish and more with no people to accidently kick bar known for its western which is known for having excel- “Shawn the Sheep” nudibranchs and damage the reef—especial- cuisine and expat patrons. lent black-sand muck diving. (Costasiella kuroshimae) than I ly in the high numbers popular I enjoyed a few meals have seen in all my previous muck locations like Komodo and Raja there during the week and Tasi Tolu. The sandy beach made dives combined. Ampat see—I wondered if this also headed next door to for a slightly easier entry than the was what all the reefs would look Osteria, an Italian restau- rocks on the western coastal dive Dili Rock. Our second dive was like without divers. rant with excellent pizzas, sites, and with there being larger at Dili Rock, which had a nice We did three shore dives in the as well as Arriba, a Mexican waves, this was a good thing. reef and lots of the muck critters. eastern coastal dive area, and restaurant. A bit farther Visibility was not very good, but it Leaf scorpionfish seemed to be they were all lovely. Heading away, there was a popular did not matter, because we were everywhere, and an orange man- back towards Dili on the bumpy Chinese restaurant. In Timor critter hunting—and we did not tis shrimp peered out at us from its road, I was excited for the rest of Plaza, the small shopping have to look too hard. The list of hole in the sand. We found sever- my week diving Timor-Leste. center in Dili, there was Thai critters we found is too long to al teeny-tiny juvenile yellow box-

24 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste

Juvenile yellow boxfish (above); Leaf scorpion- fish (top left); Frogfish on sponge with crinoids (left)

fish darting about the reef and a school of the local kids would stand around us as we small striped catfish. assembled our dive gear, and they would One little area around 20m (60ft) was walk into the water with us (and be splas- bursting with life. Anemones, sea fans, hing around when we came back). It was black coral and barrel sponges were fun to have an audience. home to quite the busy marine community. We headed to the coastal dives sites to Perched within the branches of the black the west of Dili one day, but visibility was coral were two leaf scorpionfish. False very poor, so we decided to do only one clownfish, porcelain crabs and cleaner dive there and went back to Tasi Tolu again. shrimp filled up the anemone, and there was an orangutan crab as well as several Boat diving and certifications nudibranchs nearby. Not bad for a day we Travel by dive boat to is avai- thought might be lost to bad weather. lable when conditions are good and there In the next few days, we came back to are enough divers. I did not get to dive the the same beach and dived Dili Rock and island this trip, but it is said to have excel- Tasi Tolu as well as the areas around it, lent visibility (it does not suffer from the river because it was our best option due to high run-off from the mountains of Timor) and winds, which created rough surf entries. great marine life. It is something to come School of striped catfish (above); A pink leaf scorpionfish (top The diving was still very good. One of my back for on my next trip. left) tries to hide behind coral, but its bright color gives it away. favorite aspects of diving here was how The dive center offers a variety of dive Orange mantis shrimp

25 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste

Tiny cuttlefish (top); Berthella martensi sea slug (above); Skunk anemonefish and domino damselfish on large anemone (right)

courses from mals and held some hope that maybe way to see them was to stay on the Discover Scuba a few strays would swim by once I got beach and watch for the dugongs to and Open Water there, but unfortunately, I had missed surface for a breath and then going to instructor certi- them. snorkeling to see them underwa- fications. My dive I also arrived during the rainy sea- ter. But choppy seas make dugongs guide became son, which, again, due to the shore-di- hard to spot, and it is unlikely they will certified as an ving nature of the location, made for swim over to you while diving (or that instructor with some bad visibility. Many rivers and I would notice if they did while my Dive Timor Lorosae; it is always nice to drainage from the mountains run head was in the sand, searching for see places that train and then employ directly into the ocean, bringing with nudibranchs). its own students—it shows the dive them silt and other things to mess up shop and location are worth sticking the visibility. Winds are also stronger Surface interval around for. November through February, which A trip to the Resistance Museum is a can stir up sand and make it murky. must for anyone visiting Timor-Leste. Should've been here last week Winds prevented us from going out for For the small fee of one dollar, you This is the story of my life. In fact, I a boat dive or to Atauro Island, which can spend several hours in the air should have been here a month befo- is supposed to be a very nice diving conditioning, reading and seeing re. Sometime between October and location. images from East Timor, mostly from December, migrating pygmy blue Dugong sightings are not uncom- 1975 to the present. The brutal treat- whales and sperm whales passed by mon. In some areas where the ment throughout 25 years of resistan- the island of Timor, close enough to dugongs live, there are also saltwater ce to Indonesia shows the strength see them (and sometimes snorkel with crocodiles and not necessarily the and resilience of the people of Timor- them) from shore. While preparing for ones that like having their photos Leste. I do not think you can under- my trip, I had seen the social media taken. Several beaches are known for stand the country without learning posts of these beautiful massive mam- dugong sightings. I was told the best about its past. Lionfish (top left) and scorpionfish (above) on reef Goby on hard coral

26 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste

CLOCKWISE: Cuttlefish; Skunk anemonefish; Bubble coral shrimp with eggs; Indo-Pacific ser- geants guard eggs laid on a wall; Phyllidiella pustulosa nudibranchs

be Roman Catholic. The statue ferent types of corals, large fish was a gift from Indonesia in 1996, and tons of marine life went on for and it is a popular place where as far as we could dive, in either locals like to exercise. direction. It is clear these reefs have not felt the pressure of scuba The future divers as seen on many of ’s Timor-Leste seems to be bursting other reefs. I hope that Timor-Leste at the seams for the future, and I realizes the fragility of this precious reefs in silt and pollution, destroy- Special thanks go to Dive Timor can see where it could become a resource and takes early precau- ing them quickly. Lorosae (divetimor.com). popular spot on the Asian diving tions to protect it—not only for As a well-traveled diver, it is rare list, as well as for adventurous tra- the environment’s sake, but also to be able to dive a place not Brandi Mueller is a PADI IDC Staff velers. It seems to be just starting because dive tourism could be many people have visited, about Instructor and boat captain living up, and tourism overall seems to useful income for the economical- which not a lot of information in Micronesia. When she’s not Just a few miles out of town is petty crimes have been reported be heading in the right direction ly struggling country. With a popu- exists. I enjoyed checking out this teaching scuba or driving boats, the Cristo Rei of Dili. The seventh after dark, especially to women, with more accommodations ope- lation growing rapidly and tourism untouched, little-known area. If she’s most happy traveling and tallest Jesus statue on earth looks so it is not recommended that ning up, as well as several dive bound to increase, the reefs could you happen to find yourself in being underwater with a came- out over the ocean and can be one venture there alone). Timor- shops and hospitality features like very easily be destroyed before Timor-Leste, I encourage you to ra. For more information, visit: seen from miles away on many of Leste is one of only two countries eco-lodges and cultural stays. they even have a chance to be call up the friendly staff at Dive Brandiunderwater.com. the beaches in Dili. Climbing over in Asia that are predominantly Some of the reefs I saw, espe- seen. The runoff from the island Timor Lorosae and let them take 500 steps takes you to the top, Christian, and around 97 percent cially those outside of Dili, were (directly into the areas divers you out on a few dives.  SOURCES: and it is lit up at night (although of the population is reported to exceptionally healthy. Many dif- would go) could easily cover the DIVETIMOR.COM, WIKIPEDIA.ORG

27 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO NASA

fact file guese, although Security In spite of its violent Timor-Leste Bahasa (In- past, the current situation in Timor- donesian) Leste is peaceful. There are still RIGHT: Location of Timor- is still spoke occasionally demonstrations, but Leste on global map by some of most are not violent. It is a good BELOW: Location of the those who idea to avoid public demonstra- capital city of Dili on survived the tions as they have become violent map of Timor-Leste Indonesian in the past. Petty crime can be an SOURCES: US CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, CDC.GOV, occupancy. issue and it Is best to not go out OSAC.GOV, STATE.TRAVEL.US, WIKIPEDIA.ORG, XE.COM, DIVETIMOR.COM Basic English is alone at night. Banda Sea spoken in some History East Timor was colonized Climate May tourist establish- Health There is a very high by the Portuguese in the 16th cen- through September INDONESIA ments. degree of risk for food or water- tury until 1975. After the Carnation is the dry season Pulau Atauro borne diseases such as bacterial Revolution in Portugal, the Portu- and best for visibil- Cuisine Local cui- and protozoal diarrhea, hepatitis DILI guese began withdrawing from ity and low winds. Liquica sine is similar to other A, and typhoid fever as well as overseas colonies. In 1975, the October through Southeast Asian cuisines with vectorborne diseases such as Savu Sea Pulau Fretilin (Revolutionary Front for an November is whale Ermera Jaco ments with Australia rice, noodles, pork, fish, vegeta- chikungunya, dengue fever and Independent East Timor) declared season; pygmy blue Pante and Indonesia over bles and fruits. In Dili, there are malaria (2009). Routine vaccina- the territories independent. Nine whales and sperm Makasar petroleum and several western-style restaurants tions are suggested as is typhoid days later, Indonesia invaded with whales are known Suai natural gas depos- including a few well-known fast and hepatitis A. Malaria prophy- the help of the United States, Aus- to migrate past the its in the . food options like Burger King. Out- laxis is recommended by the tralia and Great Britain. Indonesia island. November INDONESIA Coffee is the next side of Dili, expect basic options. CDC, although cases of malaria occupied East Timor until 1999— through March is the largest export, with have been few in the past five a particularly brutal and violent rainy season, and as Starbucks being a Phone/Internet Wifi internet years. Avoid mosquito bites as time—until it relinquished control, most of the diving Timor Sea large purchaser, is available (but slow) at some dengue, zika and other mosquito- and East Timor joined the United is done from shore, and on a smaller restaurants and hotels in Dili. It is borne viruses are an issue. Do not Nations and the Community of river-runoff and wind level, cinnamon and easy to get a local SIM card for drink tap water. Travel insurance Countries. contribute to lower cocoa. The country unlocked cell phones with data, is highly recommended as local Timor-Leste became independent visibility. The climate DOMAIN / PUBLIC WORLD FACTBOOK US CIA receives donations although Internet service is gener- healthcare options are not usually in 2002. Government: republic. is tropical with air temperatures of issue as land is being repurposed from foreign donors, many NGOs ally slow and coverage is spotty up to Western standards, and for Capital: Dili 26-32°C (78-90°F) year-round and for coffee and other agricultural and aid programs. outside Dili. any major concerns, evacuation high . Water temperatures uses, which is contributing to ex- to Darwin or is the best Geography The country of are 27-29°C (80-84°F). Air tem- cess pollution runoff and sediment Population 1.2 million in 2015 Voltage 220V, Schuko socket option. Timor-Leste resides on part of the peratures in the mountains can deposits flowing directly into cos- but rising. Ethnic groups: Austrone- (two round pins). island of Timor, with the other part be much cooler. Natural hazards tal environments. Mangrove eco- sian (Malayo-Polynesian), Papuan, Decompression Chambers belonging to Indonesia. It consists include earthquakes, tsunamis systems are being replaced with small Chinese minority. Religions: Travel/Visa A visa on arrival There is no chamber in Timor- of 15,410 km sq (5,950 sq mi). The and tropical cyclones; floods and urban development. Overfishing Roman Catholic 97.6%, Protes- good for up to 30 days is avail- Leste. The closest chambers are in mountainous island with subma- landslides are common. and trade in threatened species tant/Evangelical 2%, Muslim 0.2% able at the airport for US$30. Darwin, Australia, and Bali, Indo- rine volcanic activity has plenty such as shark fins and turtle eggs (2015 estimate). Internet users: nesia. of coastline with a fringe reef and Environment Timor-Leste’s are a problem. Waste manage- 318,373 or 25.2% percent of the Getting There There are flights many dive sites being accessible population is increasing dramati- ment in many forms is an issue, population (July 2016 estimate). from Singapore, Bali and Darwin, Royal Darwin Hospital from shore. To the southeast, the cally, which is likely to put more including garbage ending up in Australia, to Presidente Nicolau Hyperbaric Medical Unit Timor Sea separates Timor-Leste pressure on natural resources the ocean due to lack of sewage Currency The US dollar is the Lobato International Airport in Dili. Rocklands Drive Tiwi NT 0810 from Darwin, Australia. To the and further contribute to pollu- treatment. official currency. There are ATMs Phone: 61 8 8922 8230 north are other Indonesian islands tion issues. Climate change brings in Dili, but they often run out of Transportation Taxis are easy and the Ombai Strait, Wetar Strait the threat of stronger and more Economy Timor-Leste is one money. There are no ATMs outside to find in Dili. Outside Dili the roads Sanglah General Hospital and the Banda Sea. Terrain is frequent natural disasters such as of the poorest countries in Asia. of Dili. are atrocious (including the ones USUP Sanglah Denpasar JI. mountainous. Highest point: Foho typhoons and more coral bleach- Petroleum is the largest export, getting to some of the coastal Diponegoro, Denpasar 80114 Tatamailau 2,963m. Coastline: ing events due to increased water although there are complicated Language The official lan- dive sites). The further you go from Bali, Indonesia 706km temperatures. Deforestation is an and disputed previous agree- guages are Tetum and Portu- Dili, the worse the roads get. Phone 62-361-227911 ext. 232

28 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO

Top View