Timor-Leste — Off the Beaten Path Text and photos by Brandi Mueller 19 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Timor-Leste View from the Cristo Rei of Dili monument in Timor-Leste (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: Anthias, damselfish and anemonefish with staghorn, leather and brain corals Admittedly, I knew almost Other research on the Internet did faces and the question of, “Where Timor means “east” in Bahasa nothing about Timor-Leste not give Timor-Leste’s dive secrets is that?” Initially, all I knew was that Indonesian, so the name transla- away. Located within the Coral it was somewhere in the vicinity of tes to “East East.” Now officially until I started seeing a lot Triangle, which contains the most the islands of Indonesia (but was named Timor-Leste, “Leste” trans- of great underwater ima- marine biodiversity on the planet, its own country). lates to “east” in Portuguese. The ges online of the diving it was boasted to be some of the Northwest of Darwin, Australia, Tetum (local language) version that could be found there. most pristine diving left on earth— the island of Timor hosts two coun- is Timur Lorosa’e (which it is also an untouched area and mostly tries. Timor-Leste is mostly situated sometimes called) and “Lorosa’e” I became curious and star- not dived. But there were so few on the eastern side of the island, means “east” in Tetum. So, no ted following a local dive dive reports or pictures; it seemed and to the west, is the Indonesian matter how or in what langua- operator’s Instagram feed, like few people were diving there, province of East Nusa Tenggara. ge you say it, the country is “East watching them post daily or even going into the country. I Often, the Indonesian side of the East.” The longer, most official wanted to find out about this off- island is called West Timor, but there name is the Democratic Republic photos of cuttlefish, nudi- the-beaten-path destination and is also a small enclave of Timor- of Timor-Leste. branchs, peacock mantis experience it for myself. Leste within the Indonesia side of shrimp and beautiful reef- the island, which is also often cal- Brutal past Where is Timor-Leste? led West Timor. Confused yet? One cannot discuss the cur- scapes. Where was this In the weeks leading up to my trip, What is now Timor-Leste used rent state of this country without After climbing over 500 stairs, one place and how did I not anytime I said I was headed to to be called (and is sometimes remembering the brutal, not-so- can visit the seventh tallest Jesus know about it? Timor-Leste, I was greeted to blank still referred to as) East Timor. long-ago, past. Colonized by statue on earth, Cristo Rei of Dili. Pink anemonefish 20 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel FREEDIVE DEEPER Snorkeler | Safe Buddy | Freediver | Specialties | Instructor A healthy reef with many different types of corals and sponges the Portuguese in the 16th Guerrilla forces fought back century, it was a colony of against Indonesia throughout Portugal until 1975 (except that time, but the country for a short while when the was essentially kept silent Japanese took over during about what was happening WWII). After the Carnation within it until 1991 when the Master the art of freediving with NAUI. Develop Revolution in Portugal, the world saw reports of the Dili the technique and confidence needed to enjoy Portuguese began with- Massacre. This demonstration drawing from its colonies, against Indonesian occupiers diving in a whole new way. Using Performance included East Timor. In 1975, started off peacefully and Freediving International (PFI) qualified material, as the Portuguese left, there ended with over 250 demon- was a revolution for inde- strators killed in the Santa NAUI offers the most cutting-edge and safest pendence won by a party Cruz cemetery. Journalists training standards in the sport. Learn the skills known as the Fretilin. This broadcast the events, show- lasted for nine days before ing the rest of the world what that allow you to comfortably enjoy the underwater Indonesia launched an inva- was happening in this small world and improve your breath-holding ability! sion backed by American, country. Australian and British support. Finally, in 1999, after Provided with weapons, Indonesian President Indonesia easily took the Suharto resigned, the United province as its own. Nations was able to take For 25 violent years, over East Timor though the Indonesia occupied East United Nations Transitional Timor with an estimated 45 Administration in East Timor. THE DEFINITION OF DIVING FREEDI ER percent of the population The year 2001 saw the first @NAUIWorldwide being killed in genocide, as election, and the new con- well as from lack of resour- stitution was approved in [email protected] | +1 813.628.6284 www.naui.org/certifications/freediving/ ces resulting in death from 2002, which was also when diseases and malnutrition. it was recognized as inde- Large barrel sponges on reef 21 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Timor-Leste Lionfish on reef (above); Pregnant male seahorse (right) pendent by the UN. The UN ended house with several rooms to rent its peacekeeping mission in 2012. with shared facilities, as well as With the revolution behind them studio apartments. I stayed in one and gaining their much-deserved of the spacious, well-furnished stu- independence, the country today dio apartments, and it was great. seems to be one on the upturn. There was a small grocery store just down the road, so I was able Dili to get the basics and make myself While my direct flight from Bali to breakfast in the morning as well as Timor-Leste’s capital city of Dili was a few lunches. It was nice to have on time (and less than two hours this option, and it gave my stay flight time), my previous flights a bit of a homey feel, which was from North Sulawesi to Bali had really nice. been such a mess of flight delays There are not a lot of accom- and missed connections, I just modation options in Dili (or the barely made the flight to Dili. I arri- rest of the country) as tourism has ved in a traveler’s daze of exhaus- not yet taken off, and Dive Timor tion and disorientation, but soon Lorosae is rated as one of the best found myself at Dive Timor Lorosae places to stay. There is a hotel and its on-site accommodations. in town, but it seems like more The dive center offers several guesthouses and small hotels are lodging options to suit all types popping up, which is a good sign, of travelers, including back- suggesting tourism is increasing. packer-dorm-style rooms, a guest- 22 X-RAY MAG : 91 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel THIS PAGE: Woven mats were laid out for divers to prepare their gear—a bril- liant way to keep sand off the equip- ment; The dive center's van drove right up to the surf for a beach dive (right); Fishing boat on the beach (below); Curious children stopped by to watch divers prepare their equip- ment and enter the water (lower left) Diving covered in dust, we arrived at an entirely and we assemb- After going to sleep quite early, I woke empty beach, and the driver backed up led our gear on up refreshed from my travels and ready and parked just a few feet from where the mats (what to dive. I became aware quite quickly the waves were breaking the shore. Two a brilliant way that it was the rainy season and probably woven mats were laid out in the sand, to try to keep not the best time of the year to dive the sand off here, but that meant it was also the slow everything). season and I was the only diver at the The driver hel- dive center for most of the week. With ped us into our my private dive guide (the perks of being gear, and we walked right into the waves. by moorish idols as big as dinner plates the only diver) and our driver, we loaded The bottom quickly sloped downward, and a midnight snapper that was pro- up a van with tanks and gear, and set off and not far from shore, it dropped off into bably two feet long. east of Dili along the coast. a mini-wall on either side. I had been war- We swam past a gorgonian sea fan Being no stranger to the bad roads of ned there might be some current and that that was over 12ft across, and I saw my the third world, the roads outside of Dili we would decide which way to go based guide stop to look for pygmy seahorses. were some of the worst I had ever seen. on those conditions. But there was no cur- I thought to myself, “The fan is too big— We bumped and jolted along the unpa- rent, so we went in the dir ection my dive there’s no chance of finding this finger- ved, pot-holed road, often with sheer guide said was his favorite. nail-sized seahorse on such a big fan.” cliffs (and no guard rails) on our right side The seasonal rain and wind contributed Huge barrel sponges and other sea fans and occasionally slammed to a stop, to poor visibility, but even with only about all seemed to be super-sized and cove- dodging children, motorbikes and live- 10m of viz, the reef was nothing short of red in many colored crinoids.