A Topographical and Historical Account of the Parish of St. Mary-Le-Bone,Comprising a Copious Description of Its Public Building
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jyremri J<~cUu.re &,on Jtvne 'y ji-s. -Printed iy Vra,f & Strret' NEW 5T MARY-LE-&ONE CHURCH. loruhr/v, Pictlished, iy 'JuPn. AP,Long-evere /S33 . A TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THK PARISH OF ST. MARY-LE-BONE, COMPRISING A COPIOUS DESCRIPTION OF ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS, ANTIQUITIES, SCHOOLS, CHARITABLE ENDOWMENTS, SOURCES OF PUBLIC AMUSEMENT, &c. WITH BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES OF EMINENT PERSONS. Xllu£tratc$ to til) % SIX VIEWS AND A MAP. THE WHOLE COMPILED AND ARRANGED BY ) •> 3 0 > > j 3 > J ) ) 3 THOMAS SMITH 3 3 3 > ? ) ) 3 > 3^3 > 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 > 3 3 *' > > j 3 3 > > 3 3 ) 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 > ■> > ) 3 3 3 3 -- ? 3 > 3 > > 3 3 > 3 3 > } LONDON: PRINTED AND PURLISHED BV JOHN SMITH, 49, LONG ACRE: AND SOLD BY GARDINER AND SON, PRINCES STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE; BOWDERY AND KERBY, OXFORD STREET; J. BOOTH, DUKE STREET, PORTLAND PLACE; V. ELKINS, BAKER STREET; T. & J. HOITT, UPPER BERKELEY STREET; W. J. CLEAVER, KING STREET; J. LANGDON (CLERK OF ST. MARY’S), UPPER YORK STREET ; AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS, 1833. V DA^ , huS <e I 01)1 o 'oi < < lc < ( < f c c c C ( <f « t < < . C < < * f c ( c < c ( c c c < tit t t <<cC < <- c C C < c < 1 C c . c c ( c c < c c c c C t « « c c ( < c c c ( t ( < » 1 ) LONDON: Printed by John Smith, 49, Long Arm;. L EDWARD BERKELEY PORTMAN, Esq. MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT FOR THE BOROUGH OF MARY-LE-BONE, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED; AS A HUMBLE BUT HEARTY TRIBUTE TO HIS PRIVATE WORTH, AND PUBLIC INTEGRITY. BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED SERVANT, THOMAS SMITH. -OlffOii PREFACE. It has been well observed by an eminent writer, “ that the Public have a right to require of him who addresses them through the Press, and thereby calls upon them to sacrifice no small share of their time and attention, to render some account of his pretensions.” The Compiler of the present Volume, therefore, feels himself bound to comply with what has been so sensibly advanced. A continued residence of thirty-six years in the Parish of St. Mary-le-bone, and a constant ob¬ servation of its progressive improvement, even in that short period, combined with an inherent affec¬ tion for the place of his nativity, has induced the Compiler to devote a considerable portion of his time in collecting information, and preparing a full and authentic account of its rise and progress from the earliest period, to the present time; pre¬ suming that the importance of this populous dis¬ trict gives it a peculiar claim to an accurate and ample description. The close of the year 1832, has become memo¬ rable to all who feel an interest in the welfare of this division of the metropolis, from the extension of the elective franchise by an Act of the Legisla¬ ture, and the creation of the Borough of Mary- le-bone :—by which means 44 a population equal to that of most Capitals, and in intelligence and PREFACE. wealth not inferior to any on the globe,” became for the first time represented in the Great Council of the Nation. The utility of a Work of this description will not be denied; and if, after making a recent personal survey, and using the most unwearied industry in collecting materials, and procuring valuable information and communications, the writer shall have succeeded in producing a mis¬ cellany, at once interesting to the general reader and the lover of antiquarian research, he will have attained the highest point of his ambition. The following pages are, therefore, respectfully submitted to a generous and enlightened Public; with the entire confidence that the intention of the author will be duly appreciated, and in the hope that it will be found worthy of general approbation. The sincere and grateful acknowledgments of the Compiler are due to Sampson Hodgkinson, Esq. for many useful communications and free access to his library ; to John White, Esq. for the inspection of many valuable plans and documents relating to the Portland Estate; to James Hugo Greenwell, Esq. for his uniform kindness, and readiness to oblige; to the Rev. Dr. Dibdin, for occasional advice and assistance; to the Rev. Bryant Burgess, and to William George Paux, Esq. for the facility afforded to the Writer in the gratuitous inspection of the Parochial Registers, CONTENTS. Boundaries - - - - - 2,212 Etymology - - - - 3 Population - - - - - 4 Roman Roads ----- 5 Manor of Tybourn - - - - 6 Descent of the Manor 9 Noble Families.—Harley Family - - 10 Portland Family - - -16 Old Manor-House - 32 Account of the Portland Estate in 1708 - 35 Manor of File stone, - - - 37 Portman Estate and Family - - 39 St. John’s Wood Estate - - - - 44 Eyre Family - - - - - 45 Harrow School Estate 50 Origin of Parochial Divisions - - 51 Perambulations ----- 54 Rectory or Curacy - - - - 56 List of Incumbents - - - - 57 The Old Church - - - - -59 Monumental Inscriptions in Ditto - - 64 Ditto, in the Churchyard - - - 81 Parish Church ----- 89 List of Monuments - - - - - 93 Local Acts relative to District Churches - 99 St. Mary’s Church - - - 102 Western National School - - -107 All Souls Church - - - - 110 Eastern National School - - - 1 ] 3 Christ-Churcli - - - - 115 Trinity Church - - - 118 Chapels of Ease - 123 Dissenting Chapels - - - - 126 Cemetery on the South side of Paddington Street 127 Ditto, on the North Side of Ditto - - 131 St. John’s Wood Chapel - - - - 136 List of Monuments in Ditto - - - 13/ Ditto in the Cemetery at Ditto - - 140 Conduits and Water-Works - - - 146 Oxford Street ----- 149 Place of Execution - - - - 152 Cavendish Square - - - - - 154 CONTENTS. High Street - The Rose of Normandy - ib. Mary-le-bone Gardens 162 Parish Charity School 170 Centred National School ]76 Central District Provident Society 178 Police Office - - - 179 Infant School - - - ib. The New Road 183 Philologiccd School - 187 New North Road 256, 260 Queen’s Lying-In Hospital - 191 Western General Dispensary Portman Square - - - - 197 Manchester Square - - - - 199 Bryanston and Montagu Squares - - 201 Lord’s Cricket Ground - 203 Streets and Avenues - 205,214 Middlesex Hospitcd - 207 Portman Market - - - - 218 Regent’s Canal - - - - - 219 Clergy Orphan Schools - - *■ 221 Cumberland Place - 223 Stratford Place - 225 Estate of John Thomas Hope, Esq. - - 228 Welbeck Street ----- 230 St. Mary-le-bone General Dispensary - 231 Regent Circus ----- 239 Portland Place - 240 Park Crescent - - - - - 241 Mary-le-bone Park - 243 Truschessian Gallery - 246‘ Regent’s Park - 248 Primrose Hill ----- 257 Murder of Sir Edmondbury Godfrey - ib. Sanguinary Duel - 258 The Volunteers ----- 264 Court House - 267 Vestry - 268 Workhouse and Infirmary - - - 271 Borough of Mary-le-bone - - - 276 Election - - - - - 277 Biographical Notices.—Humphrey Wanley - 281 John Abbadie, D. D. - - - 282 James Gibbs, Esq. - ib. William Guthrie - 283 Anthony Relhan - - - ib. James Ferguson - ib. CONTENTS. Archibald Bower - - 284 Mark Anthony Joseph Baretti - 285 Francis Wheatley, Esq. R. A. - - 286 George Stubbs, Esq. - ib. Admiral Sir Richard King, Bart. - - 287 Stephen Riou - ib. Allan Ramsay, Esq. - ib. Sir George Collier, Knt. - - ib. Stephen Storace, Esq. - 288 William Cramer - - - H>. Rev. Charles W^esley - ib. Alexander Dairymple, Esq. - 289 Thomas Holcroft - - - 290 John Vandrebank - ib. John Michael Rysbrach - - - 291 John W^ootton - - - ib. Benjamin West, P.R.A. - - - 293 Joseph Nollekens, R. A. - - 294 John Bacon, R. A. - - - - 294 Sir Francis Bourgeois, R. A. - - 242,296 John Jackson, R. A. - ib. The Rev. William Holwell Carr - - 297 David Pike Watts, Esq. - - ib. Sir Thomas Bernard, Bart. - - 298 Mrs. Elizabeth Montague - - 301 The Rev. Dr. Geddes - - - 302 The Rev. Basil Woodd - - 304 James Brooke, Esq. - 305 Count Simon Woronzow - ib. Sir George Leonard Staunton, Bart. - - 306 Richard Brothers - ib. Eccentric Characters.—John Elwes, Esq. - 307 Mr.Custance - - - 311 Remarkable Events.—Cato Street Conspiracy 312 Murder of Sir Charles Warwick Bampfylde 315 Fire in Wells Street - - - ib. Death of Joanna Southcott - - 316 District Societies - - - 317 St. Mary-le-bone Savings Bank. - - 318 Queen’s Bazaar - - - - - -319 LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS. * Map of tlie Parish, {facing title-'page.') ♦"View of the Old Manor House, - page 32 ► — Parish Church, 89 * — St. Mary’s Church, - 102 * — All Souls’ Church, - 110 * — Christ Church, - 115 — Trinity Church, - - 118 John s Wood Farm BJcrUje II rn ryciinji Jhtril £il Ground Harwich PI S 1 Jiolm 3 CJbLap el □ a □ f-» arquts 31 ertf or d s }Qj 'J_ Aber d.c cVT 1 i 11 a /3T ** \ .jJJrO2J ;/o%; O Zty »* V w t t/ Jf ~>R'. A-' J$1 "i#^1 rf l|-’ of the Pm 1835 ■lorn, Published by John Smith b9h °J1g' Acre •~~*Wllllllllllllillllli| Scale of Half a Mile ami. & Ran ted by Graf fcSoret I.G±Ca.stLe St AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF THE PARISH OF ST. MARY-LE-BONE. The Parish of St. Mavy-le-bone is situated in the County of Middlesex, and Hundred of Ossulston. This County derives its name from its position relatively to the three surrounding kingdoms of the Heptarchy ; namely, the East, West, and South Saxons; of the first of which, or East Sex, it formed a part during the long period of about three centuries. Though of an irregular figure it resembles a parallelogram, 20 miles long, and 14 broad, with an area of 288 square miles, or 179,200 acres. It is also divided into six Hundreds, exclusive of the Cities and Liberties of London and Westminster, and the Tower Hamlets. It con¬ tains 230 parishes, precincts, and extra parochial places: of which 98 are exclusive of London and Westminster; 122 are within the City of London; and 10 in the City and Liberty of Westminster. The Hundred of Ossulston * comprehends the * Ossulstan.—The word Ossulstan is probably of Saxon origin ; and a writer on the Antiquities of Middlesex conjectures that it was named after the original proprietor of this part of the Country, who was called Ossul, or that the word is a corruption of OssuL's Tuna, or oldest Town ; alluding to Loudon as being the most ancient town in the County at the period when Middlesex was divided into tythings and hundreds.