6 THE SUN, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 31, 1915. FULL , ALSO SHORT SKIRTS, SCANTY SKIRTS AND PANTALETTES Mr ki.cwor iiuvr iiihim mi. fur often saves it from being fright- rvr :i tight skirl worn'' Yes, Pantalettes, All Sorts of Fluffy Ones of Net and Lace fully unbecoming, and so the designers WAS so the woman who WON are making great use of this narrow It does not remember It. Silk, Some fur band about the collar and on There Ik something amazing and and of Them are Fur Trimmed, the sleeves, the sleeve bund being nhout fern. nine adaptability ao fnr as either at the wrist or, as Is often the fsshlnn Is concerned In ull other mat-ter- n While Some Show Gleams of Silver and Gold. case, where a long, close cuff of the she may be headstrong, opinion-- a material goes with the full upper ted, frankly stubborn: but when being drawn In, and a casual fiance velvet and chiffon or velvet and silk copied by the ready to wear nianu-o- r sleeve of aheer atuff at the top of thla nays "Thumbs up" her would hardly distinguish between the velvet and tulle would be rlilc and facturers to be exclusive or desirable, cuff. thiimlw turn upward of their own voli- hlfu mued garment and a narrow un- less impracticable. but he white Is but the Idea In It la capable of In- A good adjustment of the bretellea tion, and when Fashion says "Thumbs derskirt. lovely. finite modification! and variations, that refuse to be discarded Is shown down" down they (to. A handsome evening Illus- A popular dressmaker is copying; and the resulting have In the blue corduroy and chiffon frock So all the feminine wot Id Is wearing trated In one. of our small sketches Is this model ln taupe chiffon and mole practical quality that appeals to many sketched here, and the high collar and full skins, and even those who at first an example of this conservative p.m-talot- skin anil making a chiffon women. sleeves arrangement of the und. most loudly over passing mourned the treatment. The material of the well ns the fur one. An African brown velvet, for In- la simple and practical. The stance, Is with the coat on a dark. brown velvet model shown In another handsome , with full, plain sketch would also lend Itself to com- skirt and fur trimmed redingote. bination treatment, though 'here the When the coat comes up, behold the bodice section would perhaps be better en-H- In silk rkirt from the knees up and the is than In chiffon because of Its bodice of peach faille. the ripe, severity of line. The smocked bib and yellow tone and pastel peach color the arrangement of the side' drapery that Is so much liked this autumn make the skirt of this model distinc- and peach chiffon, with a very little, tive and the touches of braiding and spidery embroidery In brown and gold fur on the bodice are cleverly applied. on the chiffon and narrow bands of Bmocklmr Is a revival that Is finding dark fur Joining velvet and ailk, and considerable favor. It has nlways had finishing collar and sleeve edges. Its place on children's clothes and In Another costume turned out by the connection with certain types of blouses same maker RH of fine, soft finished and , but not within many years black cloth, with the frock top of has It been generally used as It Is now. One finds It very deep Ivory, dull finish satin em- on everything from tulle broidered In the finest of black sou- to velvet, though very discreetly ap- tache and occasional gold threads plied and In small quantities. There was a very little dark fur at The silver note so Insistently the wrists of the long wide elbowed sounded throughout the province Of strengthens n satin sleeves and around the base of bs the season the high, close collar, from top Instead of lessening. One finds the of It In everything, serge which sides buck col- from trotting at and flared a to lar of Ivory lace. frock tulle evening frock, and silver brocades In A model are great demand. Silver In dark blue velvet and embroideries, galons. rose was too. silver silver laces, soft pretty Coats and silver nil tassels and silver buttons are frocks ln of these differed widely In and line, the forms which this note Is in detail but the same Idea chiefly embodied, and so great was many a has been there, and for that Idea the use of silver lace and banding womnn should call down blessings' that already It ln dlfflcut to find upon Ohertilt, It a good sug- Just for offers what one wants In these trimmings. gestion for madeovers, as well as for practical, new frocks. Embroideries of course one cati al- ways have If one can find the embroid- The velvet skirt with self-ool- chiffon bodice and overbodlce or trim, erer to make them; and as it happens m'.ng of velvet bids most of the modish embroideries Vhlle the fair to be the very costume most effective are not Intricate or elab- afternoon generally so embroidery so worn. All velvet are, orate, does not Inevi- there tably spell costliness as It sometimes of course, and silk Is frequently com- does. Fine thread deslerns of a sketchy bined with velvet In place of chiffon ; variously the chiffon upper sort, bands of separated nnd lnu sleeve and bodice spared short straight lir.es, these arc are too In warm comfortable our types of embroidery most In evi- to be resigned the houses without a dence, and handwork of this sort even struggle, one every- nnd still sees them the average French needlewoman can where, though ' the chiffon of the do, so the embroidery applied to the bod ICC now shows a tendency to climb autumn nnd winter frocks has given in ine eais iiisicau 01 rouinK away ' work to many French Woman in Sm . . - ...- i, i I de. 1 l 111.- Ikualtl,iui til- II UIU lf.-- l perate need of work. The French There are still the low cut collars, dressmakers have had the neeils of of course. In fact so fur one sees more their less fortunate sisters much In ollars low in front worn than chokers; mind when planning this season's but the French models are so in-- s. fashion campaign. stent on the high Collar that even There was silver embroidery on the recalcitrant may come around to ' bodice and skirt of a delightful lltt'e it ln time. It isn't comfortable and It ilance frock ln light b.tie soiree and j is fiendishly difficult to adjust well there was embroidery ln color on and becomingly, so perhaps only the the flaring side drapery of the over-skir- women with lone necks and those but the underskirt was not of slavishly subserv.ent to fashion's such lace but of fine cream lace, and Whlmi will take it up; but at any there was cream lace In the demur-I1"- '.' rate here it Is on the tapis, and II tucker and the quaint puff must be reckoned with. A line of aleevea.

ECONOMIC TOILET COMFORTS- - woman does not wish to it will final about nnd bit may stick WHAT elegant, does not long ln to ihe body, but they dry .ff on the her secret heart for the little towel and the ek n will be de Ightfollv Frock of brown velvet and one of blue corduroy. luxuries that all WOntall should have " e.ift afterward and Just a t it perfumed Yet one can be egant and have the A plain fluatlng soup that costs i or of the n irrovr skirt are beginning to frs'k Is a lovely and verv supple And, by the way, this sains dress- billet luxuries at small COBt If they will 10 cents a cake Is genera ly beat fur lh admire the fulness that they called white and silver brocade, with silver maker, like many othi ra, has found give a little time nnd thought to it. skin if cne warns u perfumed apraj abominable. There are degrees of en- lace forming the greater part of the inspiration for soma of her most I'.ist comes the bath, ln America with the Perfume 'Sie uses nnd the thusiasm ns there are degrees of ful- - corsage acd nurrow bands of sealskin successful creations In that va ry pop- tin y are not h gniit luxury, therefore scent Will last as long as the soap. Tie MMi but the skirt a tually narrow is lending most effective dark touches of ular model of cheviots Which look like one should be taken everyday, but the powder to be used after the bath la a not to be mi all trie lengths of trimming. The skirt, very short ln a sober, long coated dark street cos- elegejlce of the tmth is the perfumed thing worthy of consideration. Qo "! Wftb. avenue,fnand Kighth avenue and front, runs up still higher at the sides tume when the coat Is worn, but powder, or salts, that aru put Into It. perfumed tollel powders arc expensive Urand street know It not. tu meet a square , and the open- when the coat Is removed blossoms Prepared salts are expensive, but a A French perfumer make an Most of the smart tailored skirts are ings at the sides seem, when the Into warm color and dressiness. good suttrtute can be mad at home. baby powder thai costs 25 conservative enough, moderately full, wearer stands still, to be tilled by an Alnv-s- every American buyer who To five pounds of oatmeal add one cents for a large box nnd is delightful 25 Muring reasonably, if ut all; but even underskirt of silver lace, but In mov bought from Cheruli at uii brought pound of r Ion-ntai- orris root ipow- - for the skin. With it mix a eenl among plain tailored costumes one discloses pan ta'.ette j VSr this costume, and every clevor leredi, one pound of almond meai and package of sachet the Mower sachets A short ermine jacket over a white chiffon has flounces melit the skir: you frock which lace trimmed and topped finds skirt exaggerations, and thei trimmings of silver luce headed by woman who saw it recognised the poa half a pound of old cast lie soup scraped ure iittuully the ItPOngeet und will - II powder perfumed with skunk bands. dressy tailored costum- sometimes narrow hands of sealskin nnd bows of IblUtlea in it. Just as was In to a powder. Mix thoroughly and have a delicate ns !0 would . takes unto itself extravagant width silver ribbon whose ends are silver the original it has been too widely eimply put a handful Into the hot bath; you wish for cents that coal over !.ir if you were to buy It .n color, as there appears to ! every awing on the dancer's arm, holding und extravagant shortneei as well. laseelied. ain adj icented. popular evening shade on display, with powder and puff and nil Ihe beauty Uj Alsmt that quest' in of length all one is tempted to write of extreme tin wuy, a Ionic for the skin that the more staple colors for street wear, helps that milady could isslli . wish advices from Paris before the opening! this autumn. There are so many fash Is easy to make is Mme. Sarah Hern-har- d The bag when closed can be carried I for, The dance imea aid that skirts would be "a little long- - ion fantasies despite the fact that the i h Knu Sedative, it whitens the us a muff and there nro two Compart" In for nnd la quite Ihe most useful T." Well, perhaps they are. The best new modes on the whole are not spec- akin and soothes the nerves. The recipe ments shaped to fit one's evening graceful novelty thai is me to dressed wumat. und the average tacular. The sombre hues so much In Is as follows; Alcohol, one half pint; slippers When dancing the bag can light In some t me woman who didn't pretend to keep spirits of camphor. tWO ounces; spirits ' vocue, the pastel softness given to Ihe abreast of the latest mode never did lighter hues, have perhaps driven the of ammonia! two ounces; sea salt, live wear their skirts to their boot tops; designers to get in other ways striking ounces, and boiling water to mako a but their skirt lengths are about what usually by quart, I'm oil in a bottle und agitata they effects secured audacious were In the spring and summer, color schemes, and so we have a world thoroughly, itub into tha skin with nnd the extremists ax so short skirted of fashionable fooiery. very delectable' the hands. Shake always before using the longer'' IgUI gives that 'a little foolery some of it, very amusing fool- When baring the neck and arms for DM OWfU visions what proph- - lo- of the ery mosl of it. Some of the fantasies the evening bathe them with this ets must have considered short It last are ugly or impractical or uncom-fo- r tion. also takes the fatigue out of spring. tlnd muscles after walking Many able, but they lend spice to tha of tha French houses sent modes, even though the sensible It Is never wise to buy u cheap face over models Whose skirts were absurd-l- y w oman never of adopting powder, but the best makers all have abbreviated anil, of course, would dream there are, them. Unacented powders that cost little, and always woman to aalaa upon the ex- easy The very short skirt fronts In con- it Is ns to perfume them ns the treme feat urea of a French model; so powder. powder Is nection with train backs Rre In toilet Rica perhaps the Ultra abort skirts, too often, nine.' Ihe cheapest, and nt the mme time conjunction with ugly or 111 shod point. There are quantities of them Ji among eafo fur almost any complexion. feet and thick ankles, are with the new models, und they are are most expensive of uii selling readily. Often Perfumes the ii gain. apparently the toilet and are also diffi- Is thing quite separate from the comfOrti And tha pantalettes' Such fan- train a cult to make; however, n simple helio- tastic pantalettes fir wear with short the rest of the skirt. For instance, trope extract may be pleasing to some. al one model of evening and afternoon frocks! Doubt-laa- charming white and sil is a very lasting odor, and delightful fluffy, It one should be thankful to the: Var tulle and lace, short, full, has use in closets or bureau silk, for drawers. manufacturers and designers who of- - a of exquisite rose and in Another perfume may be made of the " fetl better and I knott my neic fer them; for If a woman will wear the back the same silk forms a how following: extract of rose, one pint; finish for girdle and then wanders Is responsible" her dance frock as short and full as. the extract of in roll, six ounces; tincture Redfem I down the buck of and some of the modish dunce frocks any the short skirt of vanilla, one quart: tincture of e, thing fluffy that clings saves us reve- far beyond It In a gracefully draped fourteen drachms; oil of bit- Quote J from a letter. lations too startling for the nerves of narrow '.ruin ending In a slurp diag- ter almond! fifteen drops. A violet ex a quiet onlooker. onal point, tract Is made as follows: Violet po- hosiers are responsible single band Of wide e, The for liven a beautiful made or oil, half pound, extract of cas-sl- many of the pinnule ilea. Silk stis-k- s ribbon is occasionally made to do duty eleven ounces; alcohol, sixteen The function of the corset is more shape ; ln black, white und colors are offered as tra'n, falling str light down Ihe than to frills attached' back of full und trail- ounce. with dainty pintalette the short, skirt HOW!1 perfumes cost less than fashionable figure. It is to strengthen and support the ing t; though The to them a little below the knees. below but. this gives bouquet, nnd frequently by experi can-n- ot long buck line tli.it is the thing figure and give it poise Anchored like that the pantalette the one can tlnd a delightful mix- go- aims, menting betray Its trust; but. without for which the designer the effect Inexpensive odors not a particularly happy one. ture of several that ing too far into toilet mysteries, the is more elegant most general scenic effect of the Apropos of the extremes of the will be far than the pantalettej scent on the market if it is This is why one feels better in a Corset it i lioBe Is vastly ridiculous before the mode, the Utile Jacket bodice of short expensive redfern popular. skirt Is adjusted. haired fur worn with .'ull Huffy skirts too scientifically designed with a full knowledge of ihe They ure of all sorts of fluffy ma- oi chiffon or tulle or other sheer stuff net, lace, ix among impractical un- p urpose of a corset. terials, those pantalettes, the and NEWEST HANDBAGS. silk. Home of them are fur iiitnnied. comfortable things that ln spite of THE some of them show fleums of silver their obvious fallings often have A NO A KIN' embroideries are no or gold, some of them have tiny ailk their charm. In outdoor wear with- You will find Fsedfern , from $3 to $25, where fowers nestling in their folds. out another Jacket such a fur Jacket ticeable in the handsomest , bodice would seem rational enough, M handbag carried by well all good corsets are sold; or your model will he Then there are pantalette dressed women this fall. Not satisfied mosl practical sowed to the but when, as in the model of our more than those the beauty of the muterlul, fash-Io- n carefully selected skilfully the , the frills falling from close large picture, this Jacket la of er- with and fitted at mine and the skirt of white chiffon must Deed add the widest of Jade lilting bunds, Bometlmee the They some and the fur bodice haa a very high and tortoise shell frames. am elastic band is used, covered in panel styles with wuy, but other gaiter panta- choker collar of the fur what Is one In both melon and fanciful V heavy colored brocaded linings, long lettes are headed merely by ribbon to gay for the practical anc com- saVsN v&&HT IT W eat-- handles. which, when tied tightly enough for fortable aide of this frockT X chain and bracelet Is one of safety, must be exceedingly uneom-fomubl- e. Tet It really la charming, this ab- A " lXsX Tooled leather also the surd little model. The fur la ao softly "Y early novelties In both hand purses CORSET SMOft same Thu drosamakers sometimes secure white and buttons such stunning sil- and lags, mounted after tho pantalette effects of more uttraclive ver balls. The chiffon skirt la so fashion us the more elaborate bags. and less StaitMnfl rt bf making to flutnngly dainty with Ita straight fall- Since dancing came Into vogue accompany a short frock or a frock ing front and Its flaring side ruffles everything for Ihe convenience of the 510 Fifth Avenue ripen at sides or front w deeply irregu- of the chiffon bordered narrow laoa dancer has appeared, und last but not (Jwi absvt 42ad Street) lar around the bottom whoaa footing and headed by narrow fringe least Is the muff dance bag that no bottoms are adorned by trimming to Ilk bands of long halted dark brown feminine heart can resist, because of harmonize with tha skirl. Most of fur. Its many uses and beauty of outline. TK m mrwfol in Iklnck or colored A brocaded with silver lace pantalettes and one of the groegrain embroidered with silver. One'a very own gown can be matched a.