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COMPLIMENTARY $3.95 2019/2020 YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PARKS NATIONAL PARK

ACTIVITIES • SIGHTSEEING • DINING • LODGING TRAILS • HISTORY • MAPS • MORE

OFFICIAL PARTNERS T:5.375” S:4.75”

WELCOME S:7.375” SO TASTY EVERYONE WILL WANT A BITE. WelcomeT:8.375” to , . But it was countless located on the rock-bound is- stewardship-minded individuals at the turn land of Mount Desert. Here you will of the 20th century that created the first find soaring cliffs butting up eastern national park, recognizing its sin- against sand and cobblestone beaches. gular beauty and ecological value and the -carved rear up from need to protect it in perpetuity. the sea, cupping deep , while The (NPS) pro- meadowlands, and dense tects this unique resource and its visitors. forests permeate the landscape. Every- This American Park Network guide to Aca- where, the ocean makes its presence felt, dia National Park is provided to help plan whether by sight, or smell. your visit to the park. It is made possible Acadia National Park was first es- by the sponsors whose messages appear tablished as Sieur de Monts National inside. For more park information, call Monument on July 8, 1916, by President (207) 288-3338.

FUN FACTS

Established: Since it opened in 1916, Popular Activities: Visitors can enjoy Acadia National Park has boasted a num- naturalist-guided walks and talks, bik- ber of firsts. It was the first eastern na- ing, fishing, carriage rides, boat cruises, tional park, and perhaps more significantly, hiking, kayaking, cross-country skiing and it was the first national park whose land ice fishing. ©2019 Preferred Brands International. reserved. rights All was donated entirely by private citizens. Bicycling: Most of Acadia National Park’s Land Area: Acadia encompasses more paved roads and 45 miles of its picturesque than 49,000 acres, the vast majority of carriage roads are open to bicycles. it on (pronounced Hiking: More than 125 miles of hiking like “dessert”). trails and 45 miles of carriage roads weave Highest Elevation: The summit of Ca- through the park. dillac at 1,530 feet. Camping: There are more than 500 Mileage: The park has 158 miles of campsites in the park. hiking trails, and 45 miles of carriage Lodging: You can find a variety of roads with 16 stone bridges. accommodations and a total of 4,500 Plants and Animals: About 165 spe- rooms surrounding the park on Mount cies of native plants, about 60 species Desert Island. TASTY BITE® is all-natural and perfect for the trail. Look of land and marine , and more Visitors: More than 3.5 million for the yellow pouch in the than 150 breeding species of birds call people visit the park every year to expe- international food aisle.* the park home. rience the beautiful coastal landscape. tastybite.com *Keep wildlife wild; Don’t feed the animals. | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 1

A23899_2d_9tas_2967_Q2_Print_Oh-Ranger.indd 04.04.19 A23899x01D_OhRanger_smp.psd Epson A23899X02C_Tasty Bite Final 032919-Product_smp.psd HP

FINAL Client: Tasty Bite APPROVAL SIGNATURES ROUND(s) 3 Filename: 19tas_2967_Q2_Print_Oh-Ranger.indd SIZE / Date: 4-2-2019 2:32 PM MECHANICAL SPECS (w x h) FONTS & IMAGES PROOF FORMAT Job #: 2967 Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Fonts TRAFFIC Insert Date: 4/1 Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Knockout (HTF49 Liteweight), Acumin Pro Condensed (Light), Pubs or Loc: PROD. Oh Ranger Viewing: 5.375” x 8.375” Acumin Pro (Black, Regular, Bold) Magazine Description: None Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Images STUDIO Scale: 1” = 1” Print Tasty Bite Final 032919-CMYK.psd (CMYK; 448 ppi, 494 ppi; AD Notes: None ACTUAL SIZE (w x h) 66.93%, 60.7%), Tasty_Bite_Logo.ai (17.81%), Tasty Bite Final 032919-Product.psd (CMYK; 536 ppi; 55.95%) CW Bleed: 5.875” x 8.875” Mekanism Trim: 5.375” x 8.375” Inks CD 640 Second St Viewing: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black SF, CA 94107 5.375” x 8.375” BM 415.908.4000 Live: 4.75” x 7.375” Gutter: None Designer: Dustin Page Printed at: None CLIENT WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK CONTENTS

Unforgettable Adventures.

Welcome 1 American Park Network® publishes OhRanger. com, Oh, Ranger! ParkFinder™ and Oh, Ranger!® guides—a collection of visitor guides for public What’s New! 4 lands all across America­—and operates Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi in parks and public lands. American Plan Your Visit 6 Park Network is an official partner of the National Forest Foundation, National Parks Conservation Association, National and Wildlife Important Numbers 10 Foundation, American Hiking Society and the Student Conservation Association. Park Regulations & Safety 15

Publisher & Editor-in-Chief MARK J. SAFERSTEIN Who’s Who at the Park 17 Associate Publisher & Executive Editor History & Culture 18 Joel S. Saferstein

Group Sales & Partnerships Director Sights To See 22 Alex Frenkel

EDITORIAL / PRODUCTION Centerfold Map Editors: Monette A. Bailey, Daniel Johnson, Jacqueline Kehoe, Amanda McConnon, Preservation 27 Julie McCool, Danielle Taylor, Wendy Willis Proofreader: Scott Tabor Mount Desert Island 29 Production Manager: Mario Arce Graphic Designers: Karla Aldana, Dennisse Cruz, Tatiana Hurtado, Yamileth Recinos Things To Do 31 DIGITAL Walking & Hiking 38 Technology Manager: Scott Falconer

ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING Camping 40 (212) 581-3380 [email protected] Just for Kids 41 Business Development: Randy Burton, Mary Pat Kaleth, Pat Keane, Craig King, Kristi Rummel Nature & Wildlife 42 Feel-Good Savings. Operations Manager: Matthew Price American Park Network Photography 46 41 East 11th Street, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10003 If You Only Have a Day 48 Heed the call of adventure with great insurance coverage. @OhRanger 15 minutes could save you 15% or more on RV insurance. ©2019 APN MEDIA, LLC · All Rights Reserved Cover Photo: Boardwalk trail around Jordan Oh, Ranger! and American Park Network are registered trademarks of APN Media, LLC. (Shutterstock)

GET THE APP! IT’S FREE! DOWNLOAD NOW The publisher of this guide and the advertisers herein are not geico.com | 1-877-434-2678 | Local Office affiliated with, or endorsed by, the National Park Service. FOR MORE INFORMATION For answers to all your questions, go to .com Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or Distribution requests OhRanger in all situations. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, DC [email protected] 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. © 2019 GEICO Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ installation/sponsorship 3 [email protected] WHAT’S NEW! WE’RE ALL CONNECTED

As a young man, John Muir, the naturalist known as, “Father of the National Parks,” Mark, Joel & Alex – connecting in parks! had an accident that left him temporarily blinded. It changed his life forever. When he science. I often find inspiration in parks. In its regained his sight, he emerged into the light traditional form, yoga was about joining with ever-determined to pursue his dreams of the collective universe. So, too, is Muir’s quote, exploration. Fortunately for the world, Muir’s best illustrated by an example from Yellowstone. trials led him to help move Congress to set When were reintroduced there after a aside Yosemite, one of his many contributions 70-year absence, the rampant population to our nation’s preservation movement. could no longer leisurely nibble on willows, graze When faced with adversity, we have but in open or congregate by the . In two choices. We can either rise above our a short period of time, the forests and meadows circumstance or succumb to our demons of began to regenerate. Song birds appeared. doubt, fear, resentment and apathy. While Beavers flourished, building dams, which Muir was lucky to have his sight return, his created habitats for otters, muskrats and . subsequent efforts drew strength from hope, Cooler waters, shaded by more trees, attracted compassion, kindness and love to rise up different species of and fish. Tree from personal adversity. roots stabilized the banks, diminished Lately, it feels like we’re all dealing with erosion and even changed the geography of the too many hurdles. Every hour, “breaking” park! Indeed, pick out anything by itself and we news spews forth accounts of tragedy and quickly find that everything is connected. divisiveness. It was with this backdrop that I Now is the time to seek out connection— SOMEWHERE was preparing to teach a restorative yoga class, whether in a park, a yoga studio or anywhere to create a safe environment for my students you find inspiration—to find strength to rise up BETWEEN and provide an hour’s worth of peace and quiet and overcome the obstacles that face us all… to carry out into the world. What theme would capture their imagination and neatly underscore STUNNING our human need for connectedness? When teaching, I try to use examples that marry ancient tradition with contemporary and SURREAL

GET CONNECTED AT YOUR FAVORITE PARKS! VISITUTAH.COM Parks are about enjoying nature, but what if you want to share a great picture or are awaiting an important email? If you’re looking to add connectivity to your park, or if you already have Wi-Fi and would like help adding content or generating sponsor revenues, please let us know at [email protected].

4 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | PLAN YOUR VISIT

GETTING TO ACADIA Route 3 in the town of Seal Harbor. Other Acadia is located two-thirds of the way sections of the park are reachable from up the Maine , approximately 164 various public byways on Mount Desert miles from Portland, 270 miles from Bos- Island. The section ton and 475 miles from New York City. of the park is located off Route 186, near By Car: From Bangor (47 miles from the the town of Winter Harbor. Isle au Haut is park), take U.S. 1A south from Bangor to Ells- easy to get to by mail boat from the village worth, then take Route 3 east to the Hulls of Stonington. Cove park entrance. From Portland (164 miles By Air: The Hancock County-Bar Harbor from the park), take Route 1 north along the Airport (BHB), located on Route 3 in Tren- coast to Ellsworth, then take Route 3 east to ton, is served by Cape Air, with direct con- the Hulls Cove park entrance. nections to . There are four entrances to the popu- You must rent a car and drive to Acadia lar Park Loop Road section of Acadia from the closest major airports, Bangor In- on Mount Desert Island: the Hulls Cove ternational Airport (45 miles away) or Port- Entrance, located on Route 3; the Cadil- land International Jetport (164 miles away). lac Mountain Entrance, located on the Portland offers service from most U.S. outskirts of Bar Harbor on Route 233; metropolitan areas on American, Delta, the Sieur de Monts Entrance, located Elite, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest and on Route 3 south of Bar Harbor; and the United. Bangor offers service on Allegiant, Stanley Brook Entrance, also located on Delta, American Airlines and United.

FEDERAL RECREATION LANDS PASSES

A federal recreation pass is helpful if you plan to visit many national parks, forests or other federal lands. For information, call (888) 275-8747 or visit store.usgs.gov/pass.

Type Cost Availability Details

Annual This one-year pass is available on site, by $80 General Public Pass phone or online (see above). Senior This lifetime pass is available on site, on- $80 U.S. residents age 62+ Pass line, or via mail order. ID required.

Military Active U.S. military and This one-year pass is available on site. Free Pass their dependents ID (CAC Card or DoD Form 1173) required.

Access U.S. residents with per- This lifetime pass is available on site or via Free Pass manent disabilities mail order. ID and documentation required. Volunteer 250 cumulative volunteer Inquire locally to obtain information about Free Pass service hours this one-year pass.

6 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | PLAN YOUR VISIT

By Train: There is no passenger rail ser- (207) 288-3338 and press zero for more vice to Acadia National Park. information about road closures. By Bus: Greyhound and Concord Coach Lines offer bus service between ENTRANCE FEES Boston and Bangor year-round. For A fee is required to visit any part of the more information, call Greyhound at park. The $30-per-vehicle fee is good for (800) 894-3355 or visit greyhound.com; a seven-day pass. An annual Acadia Park or call Concord at (800) 639-3317 or visit Pass costs $55 and is good for a year. concordcoachlines.com. Fees for visitors on a motorcycle are $25, By Local Transportation: Downeast $15 for those on foot or bicycle, and $15 Transportation runs year-round on per person for vehicles with 16 or more Mount Desert Island and between passengers. Acadia is one of a select few Bar Harbor and Ellsworth; please call national parks chosen to participate in a Presented by (207) 667-5796 or visit downeasttrans.org pilot program selling seven-day or annual for more information. entrance passes online. To buy your pass By Ferry: Isle au Haut may be reached online, go to www.yourpassnow.com. via mail boat from Stonington on Deer Isle. Reservations are not taken and EVERY KID IN A PARK the number of day visitors allowed To help engage and create our next gen- on the island is limited; please call eration of park visitors, supporters and (207) 367-5193 or visit isleauhaut.com advocates, the Obama Administration, in for more information. The state-owned partnership with the Federal Land Manage- Swan’s Island Ferry provides year-round ment agencies, launched the Every Kid in service from Bass Harbor to Swan’s a Park initiative. The immediate goal is to AD Island; for more information, please call provide an opportunity for each and every (207) 244-3254 or visit swansisland.org. fourth grade student across the country to experience their federal public lands and GETTING AROUND ACADIA waters in person. Travel through the park by automobile, All kids in the fourth grade have access bicycle or foot. Taxis are available in Bar to their own Every Kid in a Park pass at Harbor, and rental cars are available at the Everykidinapark.gov. This pass admits aforementioned airports. the pass owner and any accompanying The recently-upgraded passengers in a private noncommercial ve- shuttle runs on the summer schedule from hicle to the park. You can obtain the pass June 23 to August 26 and the fall schedule by visiting everykidinapark.gov and you from August 27 to Columbus Day. See the must print it and present it at the park. The enclosed map for more information. Every Kid in a Park pass is valid until Au- gust 31, 2019. HOURS OF OPERATION The park is open year-round, 24 hours WEATHER daily; however, most park roads are closed Acadia’s coastal location makes for December 1 through April 14. Before driv- ever-changing weather patterns, including ing through the park in the winter, call days of brilliant sunshine and occasional

8 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | PLAN YOUR VISIT PLAN YOUR VISIT

IMPORTANT NUMBERS BAR HARBOR CHAMBER Service Animals: Visitors may use OF COMMERCE service animals while visiting park General Park Information (207) 288-3338 The Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce sites and programs. Please refer to the nps.gov/acad operates two visitor centers near Acadia Na- “Park Regulations & Safety” chapter Emergencies 911 tional Park. Stop by the Acadia Welcome for more information. Center, located at 1201 Bar Harbor Rd. in Swimming: Echo Beach offers Lost and Found (207) 288-8791 Trenton, or the Downtown Welcome Cen- wheelchair access via a boardwalk. A long Weather Information (207) 667-8910 ter, located at 2 Cottage St. in Downtown set of steps bars entrance to Sand Beach. Bar Harbor. The welcome centers offer park Tours: Boat tours are accessible to Camping (207) 288-3338 and regional information, as well as free wheelchair users, but only with assistance. Bar Harbor Area Chamber of Commerce (207) 288-5103 Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™. For information, call Carriages at Wildwood Stables can accom- barharborinfo.com or acadiainfo.com (800) 345-4617 (800) 345-4617 or visit barharborinfo.com. modate wheelchairs. Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce (207) 276-5040 mountdesertchamber.org SPECIAL SERVICES - Park facilities and activities that are LODGING & DINING Southwest Harbor / Tremont Chamber of Commerce (207) 244-9264 wheelchair-accessible are marked by the acadiachamber.com wheelchair symbol (-). Please see the Accommodations are not available within “Federal Recreational Lands Passes” chart the park boundaries, but inns, motels, bed mornings when the island is wrapped in runs Hulls Cove Visitor Center, located in this chapter for more information about and breakfasts, and campgrounds are plen- a soft blanket of fog. Acadia’s proxim- just off Route 3 at the start of the Park the free Access Pass, which waives en- tiful around Mount Desert Island. ity to water also takes the edge off the Loop Road. The Hulls Cove Visitor Cen- trance fees for U.S. citizens or permanent The only restaurant in the park is summer heat and the winter chill. During ter typically opens at 8 a.m. in July and residents with permanent disabilities. House, famous for its pop- July and August, high temperatures usu- August. This two-story building houses Camping: overs and afternoon tea. See the related ally range between 70 and 80°F, often an expanded bookshop, restrooms (open has 12 wheelchair-accessible sites, each article in this chapter for more details. accompanied by a sea breeze. In spring after hours), and information booths. with compacted gravel walkways leading Neighboring communities also of- and fall, expect highs in the 50s and 60s. Visitor passes are also sold here. - to the fire grill, picnic table, restrooms and fer great dining opportunities, where In November, the winter season sets in At Hulls Cove, you can shop for books, the central amphitheater. Seawall Camp- menus feature regional specialties made and persists through March, when day- maps and posters and sign up for pro- ground has 14 accessible camping sites, from fresh Maine blueberries and, of time temperatures hover in the 30s and grams like bir watching or tidepool walks. including drive-in, RV and group. course, Maine ! may dip to zero at night. Always be pre- A full schedule of ranger-led activities, Carriage Roads: The carriage roads For more information about lodging and pared for changes in weather and dress including children’s programs, can be that wind through the park are closed to all dining, contact the chambers of commerce in layers. found at nps.gov/acad. motorized traffic, including eBikes, and are listed in the chart in this chapter. The Thompson Island Informa- ideal for wheelchair users. VISITOR CENTERS tion Center, located at the entrance Picnics: A wheelchair-accessible picnic LODGING Spring and winter park services will be to Mount Desert Island on Route 3, is site is available at the Fabbri, Thompson Is- When it comes to putting a roof over offered at the Bar Harbor Chamber of jointly run by the NPS and local cham- land, Bear Brook, Frazer Point, Pretty your head, Mount Desert Island has Commerce at 2 Cottage St. in Bar Har- bers of commerce. The center pro- and Seawall picnic areas, where restrooms something for everyone. Altogether, the bor. Visitors can also find spring ranger vides lodging and dining details for are also wheelchair-accessible. Limited ac- island has 4,500 rooms. Choose from a services at the Sier de Monts Nature all the island communities as well as cess is available at other picnic areas. romantic bed and breakfast to a state-of- Center located on the one-way section park information. Visitor passes are Publications: The NPS publishes a the-art hotel with conference facilities. of Park Loop Road. sold here. It is open daily from April 21 wheelchair access guide to the park. It is There are seaside lodges and roadside During the summer season, there are through October 15; hours vary. available at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center as motels, pint-size inns, full-scale resorts, two visitor centers at Acadia. The NPS well as on the park website. guesthouses and cottages.

10 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 11 PLAN YOUR VISIT PLAN YOUR VISIT

Budget travelers may consider renting EMERGENCIES AND an apartment or staying at the local YWCA MEDICAL SERVICE ISLAND EXPLORER SHUTTLE BUS in Bar Harbor. Private campgrounds are an- In the park, call 911 for emergency medical other economical alternative. or police assistance, or to report any accident. While there are no doctors stationed in the DINING park, first aid is available island-wide—dial Acadia is not only a feast for the eyes. No 911. Bar Harbor is home to the Mount Des- visitor can claim to have truly experienced ert Island Hospital, a modern, 25-bed facility Maine without sampling such specialties located on Wayman Lane one block off Main as boiled lobster, steamed clams, clam Street. It provides 24-hour emergency and chowder, baked beans, blueberry pancakes cardiac care as well as cardiac intensive care, and pie. You will find these dishes—and pediatric and laboratory services and respira- much more—at restaurants around the tory therapy. Medical facilities are also avail- island. Mount Desert Island has an assort- able in Northeast Harbor, Southwest Harbor ment of dining establishments—from ca- and Ellsworth. The region’s largest hospital, sual lobster pounds (or shacks) to elegant Eastern Maine Medical Center, is located 45 rooms serving four-star cuisine. There are miles away in Bangor. also cafés, chowder houses, delis, grills and sub shops. Your best bet will likely be sea- GIFT SHOPS food, since the island’s fishing boats bring a Area gift shops sell Maine-made crafts harvest back from the sea every day. such as pottery, porcupine-quill jewelry, American Indian baskets and miniature lighthouses. Also look for local delicacies VISITOR SERVICES like syrup, strawberry and blueberry jam and even bottles of blueberry wine While Acadia is open year-round, most produced at a nearby winery. The shops park facilities close between late Octo- also carry books, videos, T-shirts, post- ber and mid-May. In season or out, many cards and other Acadia souvenirs. supplemental services are available in the local communities. PETS AND KENNELS Pets are allowed in Acadia, but must be BANKS kept on leashes no longer than six feet and Banks and ATMs are available in they must be under control at all times. all communities. There are no kennel facilities within the park. Veterinary care is available in Bar Harbor. CAMPING SUPPLIES Sleeping bags, air mattresses, lanterns, POSTAL SERVICES portable stoves, cookware, backpacks, For complete postal services, visit the propane fuel and firewood are available Bar Harbor Post Office located at 55 Cot- for purchase in Bar Harbor and other major tage St.. The post office is open Monday The Island Explorer offers free shuttle bus service for Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park begin- surrounding towns. For more information, through Friday, from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., ning June 23. Its ten bus routes link hotels, inns and campgrounds with destinations in the park and contact the chambers of commerce listed and Saturday from 9 a.m. to noon. Call neighboring village centers. For more information, visit exploreacadia.com. in the chart in this chapter. (207) 288-3122 for more information.

12 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 13 PLAN YOUR VISIT PARK REGULATIONS MAINE & SAFETY Two hundred years ago, the lobster did not enjoy its present luxury status. Early Maine Make the most of your visit to Acadia by • Hike with a partner and leave an itinerary settlers used lobsters as fertilizer, and legend has it that prison inmates complained about planning ahead and becoming acquainted with a responsible person, or on the dash- having to dine on lobster three times a week. with safety precautions and park rules. board of your vehicle. Perhaps familiarity bred distaste, as lobsters • Choose trails that match your skill and were once so plentiful that they could be gath- SAFETY TIPS fitness levels. Purchase a park hiking map ered at low tide along Maine’s rocky shore. Please review and observe the following at visitor centers to find the right trails to Today, lobster fishing requires considerably tips, which are designed to enhance your match your hiking experience. more work. Lobsters live on the ocean floor safety and enjoyment during your visit. • To prevent blisters—the most common Lobster meat is sweet and succulent—a where they feed on snails, clams, ailment on the trail—wear comfortable true delicacy. and other . Lobstermen catch their SHORELINE EXPLORING shoes and quality outdoor socks to cushion prey using box-shaped wire traps, which they Exercise caution along Acadia’s rocky and protect your feet. Of all the creatures that inhabit Maine’s cold drop overboard and mark with brightly painted shoreline. Loose gravel on rocks creates ocean waters, none is better known or more buoys (their distinctive color combinations are dangerous footing. Wet rocks are slippery HYPOTHERMIA highly prized than the lobster. This hardy crus- registered with the state). During the seven and a sudden wave can sweep the unsus- Because of Maine’s fickle weather, dress tacean once adorned the state’s license plate years it takes a lobster to reach its legal catch pecting sightseer into the sea. in layers and bring rain gear. This is not only and pops up on restaurant menus along the size, it regularly molts its shell. Most lobsters for comfort, but also to prevent hypothermia. coast. average around 1.5 pounds in weight, but lobsters as large as 40 pounds have been TICKS This potentially fatal condition occurs when The lobster’s fame is well deserved. Its reported! Ticks are prevalent in Acadia, mostly ac- the body loses heat faster than it can gener- meat—found in the powerful front claws, the tive late spring to early fall. Tick-borne dis- ate it. Being wet on a breezy summer day can large tail and the spindly legs—is sweet and Maine is one of the best places to learn eases are an increasing public health concern also bring on the condition. If you find yourself succulent—a true delicacy. Its taste makes all about and enjoy lobsters. While you’re in across the region. To limit your exposure, walk or a member of your party shivering uncon- the effort it takes to catch, cook and eat a lob- town, stop by one of the many lobster pounds ster seem well worthwhile. to get a taste of this delicacy. in the middle of trails away from tall vegeta- trollably and acting disoriented, seek shelter; tion, wear light-colored clothing so ticks are remove all wet clothing; wrap up in a blanket; easier to spot, wear pants tucked into socks, and drink warm, nonalcoholic liquids. Serious Bar Harbor is also serviced by Federal SERVICE STATIONS spray your shoes and clothing with repellent Express. In other towns, certain stores Several service stations are located in and check yourself carefully after walks. Learn are designated for drop-off locations. For all towns. Auto repair shops and tire deal- more at cdc.gov/ticks. PACKING ESSENTIALS

more information, call (207) 288-5885. erships are also available in Bar Harbor Don’t hit the trail without: and Ellsworth, located 20 miles north on HIKING • Topographic map and compass + GPS RELIGIOUS SERVICES Route 3. • Stay on the trail so you won’t get lost. • Whistle Numerous churches serve the com- • Be prepared. Carry a trail map, wrist- • Flashlight or headlamp munities of Mount Desert Island and the TIDE TABLES watch, knife, matches, flashlight, water, • Sunglasses, sunscreen and hat nearest synagogue is located 20 miles Nearly all local newspapers and guide- food, insect repellent, rain gear and a first- • High-energy food away in Ellsworth. For information about books include seasonal tables of daily aid kit. • Plenty of water services, consult the local weekly papers, tides, sunrise and sunset. • If you become lost, exhausted or injured, • Appropriate clothing and extra layers • Waterproof matches the Mount Desert Islander and the Ells- stay calm and stay on the trail. Ask • Insect repellent worth American. Ecumenical services are passing hikers for assistance. Do not bush- SHARE YOUR FAVORITE • Pocket knife held weekly in the summer atop Cadillac whack or travel in darkness. Should eve- PHOTOS WITH US! • First-aid kit Mountain and at Blackwoods and Seawall ning fall, you are better off staying where FOLLOW US! • Sturdy footwear campgrounds. you are and waiting for help to arrive.

14 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 15 PARK REGULATIONS & SAFETY WHO’S WHOWHO’S WHO AT THE PARK cases of hypothermia require prompt medi- HUNTING AND FISHING cal treatment. Hunting and trapping are prohibited. Fish- AT THE PARK ing is permitted in accordance with Maine PARK REGULATIONS state law. A state license is required for NATIONAL PARK SERVICE bor, ME 04675; (207) 276-3316, or visit freshwater fishing for Maine residents 16 Since its founding in 1916, the NPS has acadiajordanpondhouse.com. ACCIDENTS years or older and non-residents 12 years or endeavored to preserve America’s park- Accidents must be reported to park older. The fee for a one-day license is $11. Li- lands for generations to come. The NPS, EASTERN NATIONAL rangers if they involve personal injury censes cannot be purchased in the park, but federal custodian of Acadia National Park, Chartered by the U.S. Congress in 1948, or property damage. are available at some town offices and hard- is responsible for preserving and protect- Eastern National is a nonprofit cooperat- ware stores or online at mefishwildlife.com. ing the environmental and cultural values ing association that promotes the histori- BICYCLES Call (207) 288-3338 for more information. of our national parks, protecting the fish cal, scientific and educational activities of Bicycles are permitted on all paved park and wildlife therein and providing for pub- the NPS. It also supports park research, roads and Acadia’s network of carriage PETS lic use and enjoyment of the parks. For interpretation and conservation programs. roads, except marked private ones. Bicy- Pets must always be on leashes no longer more information, contact: Acadia National For more information, contact: Eastern Na- cles are not allowed on hiking trails. Use than six feet. They are allowed in all park lo- Park, P.O. Box 177, Bar Harbor, ME 04609; tional, Acadia National Park, P.O. Box 177, caution on the narrow, winding Park Loop cations except Harbor Campground on (207) 288-3338, or visit nps.gov/acad. Bar Harbor, ME 04609; (207) 288-4988, or Road. eBikes, which are considered motor- Isle au Haut, Wild Gardens of Acadia at Sieur visit easternnational.org. vehicles under the Code of Federal Regula- de Monts, hiking trails that require iron rungs DAWNLAND, LLC tions, are not permitted on carriage roads or ladders, park buildings and on ranger-led Dawnland, LLC operates under con- FRIENDS OF ACADIA or the shuttle. programs. Pets are prohibited on Echo Lake tract with the NPS to provide food Friends of Acadia is an independent, non- Beach between May 15 and September 15, service and shopping in the park. Dawn- profit organization that works to preserve CAMPING and Sand Beach between June 15 and Sep- land operates the Jordan Pond House, and protect the park and its surrounding Only camp in designated campsites at tember 8. Always clean up after your pet. where visitors can enjoy tea and pop- communities through conservation grants Blackwoods, Seawall, Isle au Haut and Sc- overs overlooking Jordan Pond and The and programs, volunteerism and advocacy. hoodic Woods campgrounds. DRIVING Bubbles mountains. It also operates For more information, contact: Friends The speed limit is 35 mph in the park un- the park’s three gift shops at Jordan of Acadia, P.O. Box 45, Bar Harbor, ME FIRES AND FIREWOOD less otherwise noted. All-terrain vehicles Pond, and Thunder 04609; (800) 625-0321 or (207) 288‑3340, Gathering dead and downed wood within are prohibited. All motorized vehicles are Hole. For more information, contact: or visit friendsofacadia.org. the campgrounds is prohibited. Only use prohibited on park trails and carriage roads. Dawnland, LLC, P.O. Box 40, Seal Har- wood from park-provided woodpiles or MOUNT DESERT ISLAND AREA dead/downed wood from elsewhere in the KEEP WILDLIFE WILD CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE park. Only build fires in designated fire rings Don’t feed, chase or harass wildlife. Helpful information is available at or fireplaces in campgrounds and picnic ar- Please do not approach animals, and be the following chambers of commerce:

eas. It is against Maine state law to bring sure to throw your trash in proper recep- LLC Dawnland, Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce, firewood into Maine from out of state. tacles. If animals begin to associate peo- 2 Cottage St., Bar Harbor, ME 04609, ple with food, they may lose their fear of (800) 288-5103, barharborinfo.com; WEAPONS AND FIREWORKS humans and consequently lose their abil- Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce Firearms regulations vary by park. Check ity to find food on their own. (representing Hall Quarry, Northeast Har- with the National Park Service or the park bor, Otter Creek, Pretty Marsh, z and you plan to visit before your trip for most TAKE ONLY PICTURES Southwest Harbor/Tremont Chamber up-to-date information. The possession, destruction, removal or of Commerce, 329 Main St., Southwest The possession or use of firecrackers or disturbance of park property or natural and Jordan Pond House, operated by Dawnland, has Harbor, ME 04679; (207) 244‑9264, fireworks is prohibited. cultural resources is prohibited. been serving popovers and tea since the 1890s. acadiachamber.com.

16 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 17 HISTORY & CULTURE

HISTORY & CULTURE traveled, it gathered up large rocks—er- The people who are now known as ratics—and carried them considerable dis- the Wabanaki inhabited the island at the tances. Examples of these boulders can be time the first Europeans made contact Some 500 million years ago, what we LAND OF ICE seen at the summit of Cadillac and South in the 1500s. Originally, it was believed now know as Mount Desert Island began The brute force of the continental Bubble mountains. the Wabanakis traveled to Pemotonet taking shape on the ocean floor. Erosion that blanketed Climatic changes eventually halted the or “range of mountains,” as they called swept sediments—sand, and mud, two to three million years ago carved out glaciers’ progress around 18,000 years the island, by -bark from and later volcanic ash and seaweed—from many of the park’s loveliest features, includ- ago. As the receded, the ocean their winter homes near the the North American continental plate out ing Jordan and Long , Echo and Eagle advanced, flooding the valleys and cutting River’s headwaters. The discovery of to sea. There, they slowly amassed and lakes and stunning Somes Sound, a deep, the island off from the mainland. It is now middens that included clams harvested hardened into what would become some narrow inlet surrounded by steep cliffs. the second-largest island off the east coast in winter provided evidence that some of the island bedrock. The imprint of the last glacier to pass of the continental United States. Native Americans spent winter on Mount Magma, or molten rock, transformed through Acadia is the one that remains Today, the sea remains the key agent of Desert Island as well. During the sum- some of this sedimentary rock as it rose most visible today. It advanced out of Can- change at Acadia. It buffets the steep face mer months, they would hunt, fish and through the Earth’s crust. The overlying ada around 100,000 years ago, crept slowly of Otter Cliffs each day while polishing the gather berries near Somes Sound. More bedrock was shattered, and in some across New England, and eventually spread pink and blue-gray cobblestones at Little recently, archeologists have concluded places consumed, by the magma as it 150 miles out to sea. Hunters Beach and depositing fine shell that the Wabanakis may have had settle- made contact. As the glaciers passed through the val- particles at Newport Cove, the only sand ments both inland and on the coast. In other areas, the mass of magma leys, they scoured away the sides of the beach on Acadia’s coastline. The history of these early island resi- slowly cooled to form granite that is ex- mountains causing steep grades and cliffs dents is told at the , located posed today because the overlying layers (including the Precipice Trail section of MAN ON MOUNT DESERT just off the Park Loop Road near Sieur de have eroded. Champlain Mountain). As the ice sheet Ancient native peoples made their home Monts Spring, and the expanded Abbe Mu- on Mount Desert Island long before Euro- seum, located on Mount Desert Street in

NPS pean explorers ventured across the Atlan- Bar Harbor. tic. Few records of their presence remain: stone tools, pottery, fishing implements EUROPEAN EXPLORERS and middens (large refuse piles of shells, In 1524, the Florentine explorer which archeologists estimate are between Giovanni da Verrazano arrived in the re- 3,000 and 5,000 years old). gion that is now Maine and the Canadian Maritimes. He is credited with christening

NPS the area with the name L’Acadie, or Arca- dia. Some historians believe it to be a Wa- banaki word; others say it is a corruption of Arcadia, an equally scenic and inspiring re- gion of ancient Greece. Eighty years later, in 1604, the French explorer gave Pemotonet the name: l’Isles des Monts-déserts, which is now known as Mount Desert Island. Champlain, who crossed the Atlantic 29 times and later founded Quebec, is believed to have run aground at Otter Point, where he met George B. Dorr and friends. Dorr spent decades and much of his own wealth tirelessly working to George B. Dorr (far right), worked with local protect and preserve Acadia for public use. environmentalists to develop Acadia’s trail system. members of the Wabanaki tribe.

18 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 19 HISTORY & CULTURE HISTORY & CULTURE

A party of French Jesuits, who may have NPS NATIONAL PARK STATUS au Haut, an island that is about 15 miles settled at the mouth of Somes Sound in A Maine politician once remarked, “the southwest of Mount Desert Island, in 1613, were also warmly greeted by the portable sawmill created Acadia National . Wabanaki. The priests intended to estab- Park.” Concerned that this tool of prog- Next to , Acadia has had lish a mission there but were soon pushed ress would cut a swath through their island no better friend than industrialist and phi- out by English explorers who were deter- paradise, a group of summer residents, lanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr. He mined to expand northward from their set- led by the president of Harvard University, not only donated more than 10,000 acres tlements in Virginia. For the next century, Charles W. Eliot, formed a public land of parkland (including the stretch of coast the French and British would struggle for trust in 1901 to protect the island from between Thunder Hole and Otter Cliffs), control of Acadia. In 1759, the British finally uncontrolled development. The group had but he was also responsible for one of prevailed when they defeated the French the foresight to appoint George Bucknam Acadia’s most picturesque features, the 45 in Quebec, but not before a young French Dorr as its director. A member of a highly miles of broken-stone carriage roads that nobleman laid claim to a large section of regarded Boston family that had made wind through its sylvan interior. In 1913, the Maine coast. Sieur de Antoine de its fortune in textiles, Dorr would spend alarmed by the prospect of a park overrun la Mothe Cadillac stopped long enough the next 43 years (and much of his own by automobiles, Rockefeller began building on Mount Desert to lend his name to the wealth) tirelessly working to protect and 16-foot-wide roads connected by a series island’s highest mountain before moving preserve Acadia for public use. of 16 bridges crafted from local granite and on to found the Midwest city of Detroit. “Summercators” enjoy swimming in Echo Lake The land trust’s first notable acquisi- cobblestones. Today, the roads are enjoyed in 1934. tion was the chiseled known as by equestrians, hikers, bicyclists and, dur- THE FIRST SETTLERS “The Beehive,” in 1908, followed soon ing winter, cross-country skiers. Carriage Many of Mount Desert Island’s towns Desert. Then came journalists and sports- by the summit of 1,530-foot Cadillac rides are available through Wildwood Sta- bear the names of the first settlers, men, drawn by the promise of the vast, Mountain. By 1916, Dorr secured national bles. Refer to the “Things to Do” chapter including , a sailor from unspoiled wilderness Cole and Church monument status for the trust, and, in for more information. , who, with his family, had depicted. Early visitors, known as 1919, it became the first eastern national settled on the island in 1762. Because of “rusticators” or “summercators,” bunked park. As a result of the amicable terms FIRE! its proximity to sailing routes, the western with local families. By 1880, Bar Har- between the United States and France at In 1947, a great fire broke out on Mount side of the island was settled first. Later bor boasted 30 hotels and a national that time, it was named Lafayette National Desert Island, consuming some 17,000 arrivals gravitated to the island’s eastern reputation as a summer resort. Park. Dorr was appointed the first superin- acres and burning for 10 days before it half, where the soil proved better for farm- That reputation was sealed soon after, tendent, a position he held until his death was brought under control. No one knows ing. Then known as Eden, Bar Harbor when America’s most socially prominent in 1946. how the fire was started, but some of the was incorporated as a town in 1796. families—the Rockefellers, Morgans, Over the next 10 years, the park doubled driest conditions on record for the area By 1820, most island inhabitants were Fords, Astors, Vanderbilts and Pulit- in size, thanks in part to the acquisition contributed to the quickness and ferocity engaged in fishing, shipbuilding, lumbering zers—began summering in Bar Harbor of the breathtaking Schoodic Peninsula, with which it spread. More than 10,000 of or farming. This time period is well docu- and nearby Northeast and Seal harbors. which faces Mount Desert Island across the acres that burned were in Acadia Na- mented at the Islesford Historical Mu- They built magnificent summer “cot- . The family who donated tional Park. seum, located on tages” of palatial dimensions, entertained the 2,000-acre peninsula had but one small The blaze also swept down Bar Harbor’s and accessible by cruise and mail boats. lavishly and forever altered the rustic stipulation: Being residents of England, “Millionaire’s Row,” destroying more than character of the island. Ironically, these they objected to the park’s Francophile 60 grand summer cottages and bringing SUMMERCATORS same summer colonists also helped pre- name. Dorr arranged to change the name the uppercrust resort era to a close. Some By mid-century, a new industry serve the natural beauty of Mount Desert to Acadia National Park, a move that re- of the surviving cottages have been con- emerged: tourism. First artists, such as Island. Acadia, the first eastern national quired an act of Congress. The park’s last verted into inns and bed-and-breakfasts. the landscape painters Thomas Cole park, was created from land donated en- major acquisition came in 1943, with the Others remain private residences for a new and Frederic Church, traveled to Mount tirely by private citizens. donation of 3,000 acres on unspoiled Isle generation of summercators.

20 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 21 SIGHTS TO SEE

SIGHTS TO SEE The shoreline section of Park Loop Road glaciers. The Beehive can be glimpsed from is the most heavily traveled in Acadia, and Park Loop Road. for good reason. The road offers marvelous Another feature you can see along Acadia boasts varied and dramatic scen- dia National Park consists of the dazzling views of Frenchman Bay, as well as front- Park Loop Road is Thunder Hole, lo- ery, including a coastline of chiseled granite, Schoodic Peninsula and several off- row seats to the pitched battle between land cated midway between Great Head and the ocean dotted with islands, 26 mountain shore islands, including and and sea. Most of the road’s scenic highlights Otter Cliffs. Timing is everything here. As peaks (that together constitute the high- remote Isle au Haut. can be seen by car. To experience them, wind-driven tides sweep into this narrow est along the eastern seaboard), however, get out and walk the rolling footpath granite channel, air becomes trapped, es- close to a dozen glacial lakes and ponds, PARK LOOP ROAD that winds alongside Park Loop Road. caping with a thunderous report. At low tide and Somes Sound, the only fiard (a smaller Many natural attractions are found along In this otherwise rock-bound park, Sand on a calm day, Thunder Hole is stubbornly version of a , a glacially carved, u- Park Loop Road, a 27-mile, two-lane thor- Beach is a graceful anomaly. Located at silent. Just south of Thunder Hole are Otter shaped valley bordered by steep cliffs) in the oughfare that winds through the eastern Newport Cove, 10 miles from the visitor Cliffs, 100-foot pink granite buttresses rising contiguous 48 states. half of Mount Desert Island. It is acces- center, this is the park’s only sand beach on straight out of the water. In shape, Mount Desert Island resem- sible from Hulls Cove, Cadillac Mountain, the ocean. Swimming at Sand Beach is not Marked only by a simple set of wooden bles a lobster claw. Many of Acadia’s best- Sieur de Monts and Stanley Brook en- for the faint of heart. Ocean temperatures stairs leading down to the water, Little known attractions are on the eastern side trances. While you can drive the loop in seldom climb above 55ºF. Warmer waters Hunters Beach is often overlooked by mo- of the “claw,” which is separated from under an hour, most visitors find that it for swimming can be found on the western torists in search of grander vistas. But this the western side by Somes Sound. The takes at least half a day to take in all that side of the island at Echo Lake, Acadia’s other is one of Acadia’s most peaceful and shel- park’s western half features several moun- this scenic route has to offer. Please re- beach site. tered spots, a steeply pitched cove lined tains, numerous salt marshes and nature member: While the park is open year-round, A short hike inland from Sand Beach is entirely with cobblestones. These small, egg- trails, and some of the best birdwatching Park Loop Road is mostly closed between the Beehive, a 520-foot-high mountain with shaped rocks were polished by the pounding in New England. The remainder of Aca- December 1 and April 14. a honeycombed eastern face sculpted by surf (collecting is prohibited). Shutterstock

“ This experience has changed me forever.”

Conserving Lands. Transforming Lives. Serve, support, learn more at THESCA.ORG Water rushing into Thunder Hole makes a striking sound that can be heard from a nearby observation deck. Don’t get splashed!

22 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 23   Thompson Island Information Center  Hulls Cove Visitor Center    Park Headquarters

           Cadillac Mountain Entrance      Bar Harbor   Sieur de Monts Entrance    Bear Brook   Overlook      Sand Beach     Thunder Hole  Otter Point     Islesford Historical Museum  Stanley Brook Entrance    Wildwood Stables  Jordan Pond House  Bubble Rock  Northeast Harbor  Echo Lake   Southwest Harbor   Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse

  Bass Harbor  Bernard  Pretty Marsh  Schoodic Institute at Acadia National Park Let someone else do the driving for you! The Island Explorer bus service is a fare-free, environmentally conscientious way to see the park. The shuttle runs from late June through the Columbus Day holiday. For more information, refer to the shuttle bus map in this guide, visit exploreacadia.com or call (207) 667-5796. SIGHTS TO SEE SIGHTS TO SEE

JORDAN POND AND THE BUBBLES and beyond that, much of Maine itself. Some In a park dotted with glacier-carved ponds visitors arrive at Cadillac at dawn to see the

and lakes, Jordan Pond is perhaps the love- sun rise in one of the first places in the United Shutterstock liest. Located on the western side of Park States. Others prefer the mountain’s equally Loop Road, its waters are clear and cool. Its dazzling sunsets. Whenever they come, most shores are flanked by Penobscot Mountain to visitors spend hours clambering over the the west and Pemetic Mountain to the east, bald granite dome. both accessible by hiking trails. The view that It can be very difficult to find parking at sets Jordan Pond apart lies to the north, and Cadillac Mountain from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. rising from the shore are a pair of rounded and at sunrise and sunset. Ask rangers about mountains, aptly named the Bubbles. other locations that are just as beautiful but less crowded. CADILLAC MOUNTAIN Whether driving from Park Loop Road to SOMES SOUND the top of its 1,530-foot summit or hiking up Neatly bisecting the eastern and west- one of the trails, most visitors consider Cadil- ern halves of Mount Desert Island, Somes lac Mountain the high point—both literally (rhymes with “homes”) Sound is home to the and figuratively—of their trip to Acadia. Not only fiard, a smaller version of a fjord, in the only is Cadillac the park’s highest peak, but contiguous 48 states. A more poetic meet- The waters of Jordan Pond are clear and cool. Rising from the shore are a pair of rounded mountains, aptly named the Bubbles. it is also the tallest mountain on the Atlantic ing of land and sea is hard to imagine. Steep coast north of Brazil. On a clear day (visibility mountains line both sides of the sound, a nar- Route 198), which closely hugs the sound’s from the rocky, southernmost tip of Mount is best during fall and winter), the panoramic row, 168-foot-deep gorge carved by glaciers. eastern shore. Desert Island, is one of the most photo- views Cadillac commands are unparalleled. The best views of Somes Sound, other than graphed lighthouses on the East Coast. Spread out below are island-dappled French- from a sailboat or Acadia Mountain, are from SEAWALL The light, which was built in 1858, marks man and Blue Hill bays, the whole of the park, the southbound side of Sargeant Drive (off The western side of Mount Desert the entrance to Bass Harbor, and beyond Island includes the more tranquil part of the it, Blue Hill Bay. Now fully automated and park. Less visited and congested, it also af- managed by the U.S. Coast Guard, it is fords visitors wonderful views of Somes the only park lighthouse accessible by

Shutterstock Sound and the mountainous eastern portion car. The lighthouse is located on the west- of the park. Located on a narrow stretch of ern side of the island, on Route 102A. Be Route 102A, between a small pond and a prepared for heavy traffic during sunrise, broad expanse of bay, Seawall faces the sunset, and in the middle of the day. Note: Duck Islands and the Atlantic Ocean. This is RVs and buses are not allowed on the road an ideal spot for watching many . to the lighthouse. This side of the island is also home to Echo Lake, a favorite spot for those who want to ISLE AU HAUT fish, canoe, kayak, picnic and even swim. Fifteen miles southwest of Mount Desert Visitors who camp overnight here are at the mouth of Penobscot Bay lies Isle au treated to a spectacular sunrise over Great Haut, the most remote section of the park. Cranberry Island. Accessible by a 45-minute mail boat ride from the village of Stonington (no car ferries The western side of Mount Desert Island includes the more tranquil part of the park. Visitors will find BASS HARBOR LIGHTHOUSE are available), Isle au Haut rewards those who less congestion and wonderful views. , which rises make the trip with hiking trails, for-

25 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 26 SIGHTS TO SEE WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK

ests, cobblestone beaches and unobstructed Point. The point, which confronts the sea PRESERVATION views of the Atlantic. head-on, unprotected by any offshore is- lands, fully merits the word spectacular. SCHOODIC PENINSULA Full of sound and fury, wave after relent- “In wildness is the preservation of buses, which annually carries more than half By comparison, Schoodic Peninsula less wave hurls itself at the shore, sending the earth.” a million passengers to and from the park is a model of accessibility, located just plumes of ocean spray into the air—surely —Henry David Thoreau from mid-June to Columbus Day, reduce the one hour by car from Bar Harbor, off one of Acadia’s most spellbinding sights. amount of pollutants and greenhouse gases Route 186. Still, this 2,366-acre peninsula In 2002, the U.S. Naval Base on Sc- So wrote America’s great naturalist-philos- released into the air. (Acadia’s only wedge of the mainland) hoodic closed and those 100 acres were opher more than a century ago. A frequent does not attract as many visitors as Mount returned to the National Park Service, the visitor to Maine’s north woods, Thoreau well RESTORING ACADIA Desert Island. original owner. The Schoodic Institute understood the healing powers of this vast, Fortunately, the notion of preservation is Thus, visitors to Schoodic can freely at Acadia National Park has been es- virgin landscape. By preserving such wild- as old as the park itself. George Dorr, John D. explore the six-mile park road (RVs are re- tablished there, the purpose of which is ness, he wrote, we are also ensuring our own Rockefeller, Jr., and the park’s other founders stricted with the exception of the Schoodic to promote and facilitate education and re- survival—not just physically, but spiritually. were all conservationists working to protect Woods Campground), a 440-foot headland, search that is consistent with the mission Every year, millions of visitors travel Mount Desert Island from the ravages of the various hiking trails, eight miles of bike of the NPS. One of the programs taking to Acadia in search of the wildness Tho- sawmill and automobile. More than 35,000 paths and the area’s cobblestone beaches. place there is the Schoodic Education Ad- reau described, making it one of the top 10 acres were donated so that they might be If a crowd collects anywhere, it is usually at venture, a three-day residential program for most visited national parks in the country. preserved for public use. high tide at the rock ledge called Schoodic fifth through eighth graders. Such popularity has led to a pressing—and Progress has been made to restore complex—dilemma faced by park officials; Acadia’s hiking trails and carriage roads. SENTINELS OF THE SEA the more people who seek out Acadia’s spe- Acadia Trails Forever and the Carriage Road cial beauty, the more endangered that beauty Endowment, established in partnership with There is no symbol of the Maine coast more becomes. Park officials must balance visitor Friends of Acadia, support new construction stirring than the lighthouse. Whether rising tall use with the protection of the park’s precious and maintenance. Each year, park trail and on the mainland or on a tiny scrap of rock many

Shutterstock natural resources. road crews, the Acadia Youth Conservation miles out to sea, these beacons have guided mariners through Maine’s many rocky ledges Corps and hundreds of volunteers rehabilitate and pea-soup fogs for more than 200 years. AREAS AT RISK stone steps and walls, clear vegetation from Maine is second only to Michigan in its number The summit of Cadillac Mountain would drainage systems, build walks in wet- of lighthouses. More than 60 are found from seem impervious to man or nature. Yet this lands and more. the Cape Neddick Light at the state’s southern granite dome is also home to a fragile environ- Park officials have prepared a long-term tip to the West Quoddy Head Light in Maine’s ment of sub-alpine vegetation, low-lying heath- general management plan for Acadia to pro- mostly undeveloped Down East region. ers, shrubs, berries and wildflowers that are tect the park’s resources and the visitor expe- Maine lighthouses were originally manned by extremely sensitive to the visitor footsteps. rience. The plan weighs how best to stop the a lighthouse keeper and often by his family, as The island’s sea caves are a unique changes that park officials can and works to well. Romantic in the telling, the life of a light- oceanside habitat that once supported a va- increase and maintain the resilience of Aca- house keeper (especially an offshore keeper) riety of marine life. Today, those species are dia’s forests, streams, and lakes was, in practice, lonely and fraught with respon- sibility and risk. Today, all Maine lighthouses are greatly depleted. Some creatures may have against current and future challenges. Maine is second only to Michigan in its number been collected as souvenirs, but park natu- automated and monitored by the U.S. Coast of lighthouses. Guard. Some decommissioned lighthouses are ralists speculate that human footsteps alone REDUCING HUMAN IMPACT being put to use as bed-and-breakfasts. Island. Built between 1828 and 1875, all the may have been enough to disturb this fragile Because parklands and private property Acadia boasts four lighthouses spread lighthouses except Great Duck are visible from environment. are interspersed, the park inevitably feels the among the surrounding bays: Bass Harbor- various points in the park. Only Bass Harbor Air quality is also a concern at Acadia. The impact of growth and development in neigh- Head, , Egg Rock and Great Duck Head is accessible by car. propane-powered Island Explorer shuttle boring communities.

27 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 28 PRESERVATION WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK

Friends of Acadia’s programs and partner- year period, the program allocated $6.5 mil- MOUNT DESERT ISLAND ships include the fare-free, low-emissions Island lion to trail reconstruction and $6.5 million Explorer bus system; advocacy for additional in endowments to maintain Acadia’s congressional funds; a revolving fund to protect 125-mile foot trail system and fund student Acadia National Park covers much of contemporary visitors will find inns, hotels, privately held lands within park boundaries; and employment programs. Mount Desert Island. Most of the park is guesthouses, sidewalk cafés, formal res- collaboration on a transportation management For more information, please con- preserved in its natural state, with commer- taurants and block after block of boutiques, plan, viewable at nps.gov/acadiaplan. tact Friends of Acadia, P.O. Box 45, Bar cial activity taking place outside the park in specialty shops and galleries. Visitors are encouraged to see the “Leave Harbor, ME 04609; (207) 288-3340, or surrounding communities. Busy little resort Bar Harbor is also home to such No Trace” article in this chapter for other visit friendsofacadia.org. towns offer modern services, lodging, dining prestigious institutions as Jackson ways to help protect the park. spots, gift shops and antique stores. Laboratory, a leading genetics re- RECYCLING The eastern half of Mount Desert is the search center, Mount Desert Island LASTING TRAILS Acadia has undertaken a solid waste more populated side. It is home to the town Biological Lab and the College of the At- Rock slides, natural erosion and millions recycling program that includes items of Bar Harbor, which is near the Cadillac lantic, a small liberal arts college. During of visitors place a heavy toll on the trails of used by visitors. Bins for glass, plastic and Mountain Entrance to Acadia National Park. the summer, all offer educational programs Acadia National Park. To combat degrada- aluminum are placed throughout the park. The western half, locally known as the for the public. tion, Friends of Acadia and Acadia National From 2001 to 2005, the program recycled an “quiet side,” is more rural. The land is punctu- Learn more about the town’s history at Park launched “Acadia Trails Forever,” a average of more than 18 tons of newsprint, ated with marshes, coves, inlets and an oc- the Bar Harbor Historical Museum located $13 million partnership to reverse these ef- cardboard, plastic and glass per year. casional village. at 33 Ledgelawn Ave. The museum is open fects. Friends of Acadia is contributing $9 Pollution also comes from light. Several Aca- from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday through Saturday million of the funding; the balance comes dia towns have passed ordinances to preserve BAR HARBOR from mid-June to October and by appoint- from admission fees. During a nearly 10- the island’s stunning views of the night sky. Bar Harbor (population 5,325) is a vibrant ment in the winter season. Free admission. gateway community to Acadia. Where the For more information call (207) 288-0000 or millionaires’ summer cottages once stood, visit barharborhistorical.org.

Shutterstock A membership organization dedicated to Acadia National Park and its surrounding communities join, volunteer, make a difference! friendsofacadia.org

Most of Acadia National Park is preserved in its natural state, and every season offers its own spectacular scenery for visitors to enjoy.

29 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 30 MOUNT DESERT ISLAND WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK THINGS TO DO Shutterstock Although Acadia is dazzling in summer, eastern half of the island, are lined with bro- the park’s beauty flourishes throughout the ken stone and some sections are more suit- year. By land and by sea there is no such able for mountain bikes than racing ones. thing as an off-season at Acadia. Bikes are not allowed on hiking trails or off of designated roads. eBikes are considered motorized vehicles and are also prohibited SPRING, SUMMER on carriage roads. AND FALL For more information, please pick up a copy of a park map. Bicycle guides are avail- AMPHITHEATER PROGRAMS able for a fee at Hulls Cove Visitor Center. In the evening, Acadia’s two camp- Bicycles can be rented in Bar Harbor, North- grounds present free programs in their east Harbor and Southwest Harbor. Please centrally located amphitheaters. Programs contact the chambers of commerce listed span a range of natural and cultural history in the “Plan Your Visit” chapter for more topics (ideal for families). You do not have information. Bar Harbor is a vibrant gateway community to Acadia. Guests will find inns, sidewalk cafés, formal to stay at a campground to attend! restaurants and block after block of boutiques. BIRDWATCHING NORTHEAST HARBOR out over Somes Sound. The second largest AUDIO TOUR Sieur de Monts Spring, Ship Harbor and Eleven miles from Bar Harbor lies town on Mount Desert, it is ranked one of the Eastern National has prepared an au- Wonderland trails are all favorite birdwatch- Northeast Harbor (population 488). This top 12 commercial fishing harbors in Maine. dio tour of Acadia National Park. The ing spots, as are the summits of Cadillac low-key town, punctuated by stately sum- Boat-building is the main industry and some 56-mile driving tour (which can take be- and mountains during the fall mer homes and boats bobbing at the wa- of the world’s finest crafts come from here. tween four and six hours to complete) migration. Ask at a park visitor center about terfront, sits on a protected deep-water The Wendell Gilley Museum exhibits covers the entire Park Loop Road, as well ranger-led hawk-watching. Birding is at its port—one of the best in the state. more than 200 bird carvings and offers carv- as Sargeant Drive along lovely Somes peak from late May through September, Walk along Municipal Pier or poke your ing demonstrations. Stop by the Clark Point Sound. Scenic points of interest are high- but there is never a shortage of birds at head into the town’s antique store and old Gallery to view 19th- and 20th-century paint- lighted and the park’s natural and cultural Acadia. See the “Nature & Wildlife” chap- bookshop. On Route 3, Thuya Garden ings of the island and other parts of Maine. history is explained. The CD or down- ter for more information about birds that mixes formal English flower beds with On land, you can golf, hike, rent a bike or loadable audio tour may be purchased at can be seen in and around the park. simple Japanese influences. Each June, have a beachside picnic. Take to the water the Hulls Cove Visitor Center. Please call Asticou Azalea Garden, on Route 198, and hop the ferry to the Cranberry Isles, or (207) 288-4988 for more information. CRUISES AND WATCHING presents more than 20 varieties of azaleas. go deep-sea fishing for halibut or tuna. Some of the best views of Acadia are to be Seasonal activities include golf and tennis. On the outskirts of Southwest Harbor is BICYCLING had from the ocean. Out on the open waters The Great Harbor Maritime Museum the village of Manset, home of several boat The only tough part about being a cy- of Frenchman Bay, gazing back at Acadia’s on Main Street is a good place to see yards. The nearby town of Tremont, home clist at Acadia National Park is trying to granite headlands, you’ll understand why some of the island’s historical artifacts. to 1,563 islanders, takes its name from the decide which of the many roads to ex- French explorer Samuel Champlain named French trois and mont, describing the three plore. Although Park Loop Road is the island l’Isles des Monts-déserts, a refer- SOUTHWEST HARBOR mountains seen from the town. Lobstering open to cyclists, most opt to ride on the ence to the fact that the mountains looked Found on the island’s western “quiet is the primary industry. West Tremont, Ber- carriage roads that are closed to auto traf- deserted or bare. A cruise is also an opportu- side,” Southwest Harbor is a large fishing nard and Bass Harbor are smaller villages fic and offer a whole new perspective of nity to learn about Acadia’s marine life, from village with a population of 1,764 that looks associated with Tremont. Acadia. The roads, which wind through the lobsters to harbor seals to pelagic birds. Dress

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warmly and bring along a pair of binoculars. lighthouse in the area and see the 220-year- See the “Nature & Wildlife” chapter for more old Gilley farmstead. Tickets are $49 for information about watchable wildlife. adults, $27 for children 6 to 14 and $14 for Available cruises include four park ranger- children under 5. For more information, visit led nature cruises, two of which include barharborwhales.com stops on nearby islands. Contact the cruise Islesford Historical Cruise: This 2.75- lines listed or check at a visitor center for hour cruise includes the Somes Sound and details and options. Many other cruises— a stop at Little Cranberry Island’s Islesford whale watches, deep-sea fishing and lob- Historical Museum, whose collection docu- ster fishing—are also available through local ments Mount Desert Island’s fishing and charter boat companies. Contact the cham- seafaring heritage. Ticket prices are $32 for bers of commerce listed in the “Plan Your adults, $29 for seniors 65 and older, $19 for Visit” chapter for more information. children ages 6 to 12 and $9 for children 5 and Acadia by the Sea: Cruise through under (infants free). For more information, call Frenchman Bay on a catamaran to see the (207) 276-5352 or visit cruiseacadia.com. coast of Mount Desert Island, Schoodic Frenchman Bay Cruise: View wildlife Peninsula and all the islands in between and learn about history on this two-hour on this 2.75-hour tour. Tickets are $42 for cruise on a 151-foot, four-masted schooner. adults, $27 for children 6 to 14, and $14 for Ticket prices: $42 for adults, $39 for se- children 5 and under. For more information, niors, $32 for children under 12 and $7 for contact the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Com- those ages 2 to 5. Children under 2 sail free, pany, barharborwhales.com. but require reservations. For more informa- Baker Island Cruise: Explore a 130-acre tion, call (207) 288-4585. uninhabited island on this five-hour (includ- ing one hour of hiking) cruise. Visit the oldest CARRIAGE TOURS Wildwood Stables, located on the Park Loop Road, offers multiple scheduled rides daily in open carriages drawn by draft horses. FUN FACTS The rides are fully narrated with a history of the park and the carriage roads. Many enjoy Q. CAN I USE MY GPS the two-hour early evening sunset ride to the UNIT IN THE PARK? summit of Day Mountain. The stables are A. Yes! Acadia’s open from late May to mid-October. Reserva- EarthCache Program is tions are strongly recommended. a great way to explore the For visitors with disabilities, there are park while learning about its carriages that can accommodate wheel- geological story. Using your own GPS chairs. For more information, call unit and a set of clues, you can guide 1-877-276-3622 or (207) 276-5721 or visit yourself to a series of park sites. For more - information, visit nps.gov/acad. acadiahorses.com.

For answers to all your questions, FALL FOLIAGE go to OhRanger.com Fall is foliage season at Acadia National Park and a great time to tour the park. The

33 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | THINGS TO DO THINGS TO DO

weather, of course, has the final say when a highlight of your trip and give you a dif- it comes to timing and intensity—warm ferent perspective of coastal Maine. Check

days and cold nights promise a quicker color out coastal lighthouses, Cadillac Moun- Shutterstock change with more brilliant reds, oranges and tain, Somes Sound and other scenic areas. yellows. Flights depart from Hancock County-Bar Generally, the leaves reach their peak color- Harbor Airport. ation during the first two weeks of October. The Maine Department of Conservation HORSEBACK RIDING issues weekly foliage reports between mid- For park visitors traveling with their September and mid-October, describing the own horses, Acadia’s carriage roads make amount of color and leaf fall in seven separate ideal riding trails. Stalls and campsites regions of the state. Acadia is part of Zone 2. are available. For more information about Please visit mainefoliage.com or call bringing your horse to the park, call Wild- (800) 533-9595 for more information. wood Stables at 1-877-276-3622 or visit acadiahorses.com. FISHING Fishing is allowed on all of Acadia’s ponds KAYAKING and lakes. Landlocked salmon and brook Whether you are a novice or a skilled pad- Paddlers enjoy kayaking in the lakes, ponds and ocean around Acadia. Some make the journey to remote campsites for overnight trips. trout can be caught in the larger lakes. A dler, you can enjoy sea kayaking in the waters state fishing license is required for freshwater around Mount Desert Island. Guided tours of open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from April 18 Harbor (on the west side of Mount Desert fishing, and you must register online to par- varying lengths are available, including over- through October 15. Island). This small gem of a gallery features ticipate in saltwater fishing. Lakes and ponds night camping trips to remote island sites. Call You need to take a mail or a tour boat to exhibitions and demonstrations on the are under Maine State jurisdiction. Please see the chambers of commerce listed in the “Plan Little Cranberry Island to visit Islesford His- Down East art of bird woodcarving. Gil- the “Park Regulations & Safety” chapter for Your Visit” chapter for more information. torical Museum, home to exhibits about ley, a Southwest Harbor native, gained a more information. New England’s maritime history. Open daily national reputation for his exquisite wood- MUSEUMS from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from June 29 through carvings. It is open year-round. Please FLIGHTSEEING Abbe Museum is located off Park Loop August and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (12 p.m. to 4 visit wendellgilleymuseum.org or call Flightseeing tours of Acadia, Bar Harbor Road near Sieur de Monts Spring and houses p.m. on Sundays) in September. Free. Call (207) 244-7555 for more information and other Downeast communities will be a handsome collection of American Indian ar- (207) 288-3338 for more information. The Mount Desert Oceanarium, lo- tifacts. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., May through Lifelike exhibits of animals native to Mount cated on Route 3 in Bar Harbor, features a October. Tickets are $3 per adult, $7 per se- Desert Island are mounted at the George B. lobster hatchery and exhibits about Maine nior, and $1 per child ages 11 to 17 (10 and Dorr Museum of Natural History at Col- marine life. The oceanarium’s Thomas Bay under are free). The expanded Abbe Mu- lege of the Atlantic, located on Route 3 in Marsh Walk takes you to a two-deck view- Shutterstock seum on Mt. Desert Street in Bar Harbor is Bar Harbor. Children will enjoy the hands- ing tower with a telescope for observing open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., May 1 through on discovery room and summer field stud- birds and aquatic animals. Open mid-May October 31; open Thursdays, Fridays, and ies programs. Limited parking is available; to late October, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., November best accessed in summer on the Island through Saturday. Cost, including marsh to April (closed in January). Fees are $8 per Explorer shuttle. For more information, walk, is $20 per adult, $15 for children 4 adult and $4 per child ages 11 to 17; under 10 visit www.coa.edu/dorr-museum or call to 12. Excluding marsh walk, ticket prices admitted free. Please call (207) 288-3519 for (207) 288-5395. are $12 for adults and $8 for children ages more information. Birds of a different feather can be found 4 to 10 (under 4 are free). For more infor- Taking a nature cruise is one of the best ways The Sieur de Monts Nature Center is at the Wendell Gilley Museum, located mation, please call (207) 288-5005 or visit to see Acadia’s diverse wildlife. located near Abbe Museum. The center is on Route 102 in the town of Southwest theoceanarium.com.

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CARRIAGE ROADS PARK PROGRAMS Perhaps the best way to appreci- WINTER ate the park is in the company of a park ranger. Park rangers can help you better Winter at Acadia is as beautiful as sum-

Shutterstock “read” the landscape, from its natural his- mer, and for the resourceful and adventur- tory to the imprint man has left upon the ous visitor, every bit as stimulating. Hulls land. Join a park ranger for a nature walk, Cove Visitor Center is closed November 1 bridges tour, evening star watch, or chil- through April 15. Park Loop Road is closed In 1901, a group of wealthy Mount Desert conquered the island, visitors to Acadia can dren-friendly activities. Some programs between December 1 and April 14. Dur- Island summer residents banded together to be thankful for Rockefeller’s generosity and require reservations (no earlier than three ing winter, park services are offered at Bar set aside the land that would later become foresight. Winding through the eastern half of days in advance). For a current schedule, Harbor Chamber of Commerce at 2 Cot- Acadia National Park. One of the park’s early the island, past lakes and mountains, these ask at Hulls Cove Visitor Center or visit the tage St. in Bar Harbor. Park rangers will be benefactors was John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the roads are now enjoyed by hikers, joggers, park website. glad to help you plan your winter outing to millionaire industrialist and philanthropist cyclists, cross-country skiers, carriage riders ensure maximum enjoyment and safety. who later planned and built New York City’s and horseback riders. Rockefeller Center. Rockefeller hoped the PICNICKING land would one day become “a real gem of There are picnic areas at Bear Brook, WINTER CAMPING the first order among national parks,” but, in Fabbri (-), Seawall and Pretty Marsh on A small section of the Blackwoods 1913, that hope was threatened by an unfore- Mount Desert Island and at Frazer Point campground is available for winter camp- seen menace: the arrival of the automobile on on the Schoodic Peninsula and Thomp- ing from November 12 to April 9 for free. A Mount Desert Island. son Island. Each has picnic tables, fire permit from park headquarters is required. Rockefeller, however, did not take this grills, water fountains and restrooms. From April 12 to 30 and October 11 to No- Picnicking is permitted elsewhere in vember 19, a limited number of campsites One of the best ways to experience Acadia is riding your bike or horse along its 45 miles of the park, provided visitors observe Aca- are available, weather permitting, for $15 carriage roads. dia’s carry-in, carry-out policy. per night. Self-registration is required. Call In 1901, a group of wealthy Mount Desert the park. Gently graded and lined with broken (207) 288-3338 for more information. Win- Island summer residents banded together to stone, the “Rockefeller Roads” (as they were threat lying down. He wanted to preserve the ROCK CLIMBING ter visitors should be prepared for quick set aside the land that would later become known) offered a refuge from the “horseless horse-and-carriage experience for those who This adventurous sport is increasing changes in weather. Dress in layers and Acadia National Park. One of the park’s early carriage” for hikers, horseback riders and the preferred a quieter ride to the new-fangled in popularity at Acadia. Mount Desert of- bring extra clothing, a first-aid kit, water, benefactors was John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the open, horse-drawn carriages, which were automobile. Over the next 27 years, he built fers lofty challenge—you can climb Otter food, a blanket and maps. millionaire industrialist and philanthropist the summercators’ preferred mode of travel. a system of carriage roads crisscrossing his Cliffs, 60-foot rocky sea cliffs overlooking who later planned and built New York City’s Linking over 50 miles of carriage roads were property, most of which he later donated to the ocean, or the South Wall of Champlain WINTER SPORTS Rockefeller Center. Rockefeller hoped the a series of handsome bridges that were built the park. Gently graded and lined with broken Mountain, a 200-foot scaling up a granite When covered with a mantle of snow, land would one day become “a real gem of with local granite and cobblestone. The Rock- stone, the “Rockefeller Roads” (as they were the first order among national parks,” but, in efeller Roads were not without controversy, mountain face. There are no outfitters in the park’s carriage roads make ideal cross- known) offered a refuge from the “horseless 1913, that hope was threatened by an unfore- however. Some summer residents consid- the park, but you can hire a guide. For more country ski trails. Snow also blankets Aca- carriage” for hikers, horseback riders and the seen menace: the arrival of the automobile on ered them a scar on the wilderness. information, please call the Bar Harbor dia’s lakes, making ice skating difficult. Ice open, horse-drawn carriages, which were Mount Desert Island. Today, now that the automobile has all but Chamber of Commerce at (800) 345-4617. fishermen fare well, however, and their fish- the summercators’ preferred mode of travel. Rockefeller, however, did not take this conquered the island, visitors to Acadia can Linking over 50 miles of carriage roads were ing shacks are a familiar sight on the park’s threat lying down. He wanted to preserve the be thankful for Rockefeller’s generosity and a series of handsome bridges that were built SWIMMING lakes and ponds between January and early horse-and-carriage experience for those who foresight. Winding through the eastern half of with local granite and cobblestone. The Rock- Swimming is permitted at Sand Beach March. Be cautious and ensure that ice thick- preferred a quieter ride to the new-fangled the island, past lakes and mountains, these efeller Roads were not without controversy, (saltwater) and Echo Lake (freshwater).Ocean ness is sufficient to support your weight. automobile. Over the next 27 years, he built roads are now enjoyed by hikers, joggers, however. Some summer residents consid- temperatures average an invigorating 55–60ºF Snowmobilers can use the 27-mile Park a system of carriage roads crisscrossing his cyclists, cross-country skiers, carriage riders ered them a scar on the wilderness. so be prepared to be chilly. Both beaches Loop Road, but are not allowed on most property, most of which he later donated to and horseback riders. Today, now that the automobile has all but have lifeguards on duty during the summer carriage roads.

37 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 38 WALKING AND HIKING

WALKING & HIKING WALKING & HIKING TRAILS Round-Trip Trail Distance Difficulty Whether you’re a casual stroller or card- Harbor during low tide, wander out across Trailhead Description Time Elevation Gain carrying thrill-seeker, Acadia has a path for the gravel bar that leads to —but you. The Mount Desert Island section of don’t linger—after 90 minutes, the path will Bar Harbor Shore Path A gravel trail with views of the four 1.0 mile very easy Bar Harbor town pier Porcupine Islands, and on the shore 30 minutes level the park alone boasts 17 mountains. Isle au disappear beneath the incoming tide. side, views of Bar Harbor Haut and Schoodic Peninsula have several Park trailheads and junctions are clearly Great Loop A pleasant loop connecting Bar Harbor 2.0 miles very easy additional peaks. Because the mountains are marked with small, wooden directional signs, Village Green to Acadia with historic sites along the 30 minutes level all less than 1,600 feet tall, each can be hiked and the paths with blue-paint blazes. way. Access to other trails available in less than a day and several can be scaled in Pick up a copy of the NPS map of Acadia, Ocean Path A gently rolling footpath following 3.6 miles easy Sand Beach parking area Park Loop Road to Otter Cliffs with 2 hours fairly level an hour. During late summer, many trails are available at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to views of the rock-bound coast fringed with wild blueberries. Regular visi- use as your road map for driving. It shows el- Schoodic Head Trail A gentle trail offering views of Schoodic 1.0 mile easy to moder- tors to Acadia know to head to the hills when evations as well as where to find hiking trails Schoodic Peninsula Loop Peninsula and Mount Desert Island 30 minutes ate Road opposite West Pond 440 feet the popular Park Loop Road is congested. and scenic carriage roads. Detailed hiking Even at the height of summer, some of the maps can be purchased at the visitor center. Ship Harbor Trail A walk through spruce forests and 1.3 miles easy Ship Harbor parking area along the salt marsh shore of Ship 40 minutes mostly level hiking trails offer peace and privacy. For more information, refer to the Carriage off Route 102A Harbor, great birdwatching (rocky patches) Not all of Acadia’s trails lead uphill. Some Roads article in the “Things to Do” chapter Beech Mountain Trail Steep in some sections, this trail on the 1.2 miles moderate of the gentlest paths—such as Ocean Path, and the hiking safety tips in the “Park Regula- Beech Mountain parking western side of Mount Desert Island 1 hour 839 feet area off Route 102 offers views of both Long Pond and which runs parallel to the Ocean Drive sec- tions & Safety” chapter. For additional read- Echo Lake. A fire tower crowns the tion of Park Loop Road—offer some of the ing, pick up a copy of Carriage Roads of Acadia: summit (not open to the public). best scenery. If you arrive at the town of Bar A Pocket Guide by Diana F. Abrell (2011). Great Head Trail This cliff walk loop provides views 1.4 miles moderate Eastern end of Sand Beach of Frenchman Bay, Sand Beach 45 minutes 145 feet off Park Loop Road and Gorham Mountain. Gorham Mountain Trail A short but spectacular climb up an oceanside 2.0 miles moderate Gorham Mountain parking mountain offering continuous views 1 hour 525 feet area off Park Loop Road Shutterstock Jordan Pond Path This relatively level, but rocky, trail around 3.3 miles moderate Jordan Pond parking area Jordan Pond boasts views of five mountains. 1.75 hours level off Park Loop Road Cadillac Mountain This is the least demanding of four 4.2 miles moderate North Ridge Cadillac parking trails up Acadia’s highest peak with 2.5 hours 1,530 feet area off Park Loop Road views of Frenchman Bay, offshore islands and Schoodic Peninsula. The Beehive A very steep trail along cliff ledges 1.8 miles strenuous Just north of Sand Beach leads to the top of this mountain. Bowl 45 minutes 520 feet area off Park Loop Road Trail offers a longer, gentler climb. Acadia Mountain Trail The park’s best views of Somes 2.0 miles strenuous Acadia Mountain parking Sound can be had from this trail. 1.25 hours 681 feet area off Route 102 Emery Path A steady and sometimes steep climb 2.4 miles strenuous Sieur de Monts Spring area to the top of Dorr Mountain, the first 2.25 hours 1,270 feet section is terraced with granite steps. Cadillac Mountain South A long, sometimes strenuous, 7.4 miles strenuous Ridge hike up Acadia’s tallest peak 4.75 hours 1,530 feet 100 ft. SW of Blackwoods offers excellent panoramic views Campground entrance of the ocean and mountains. There are more than 25 peaks in Acadia. All are less than 1,600 feet tall, and most offer spectacular off Route 3 views of the Atlantic Ocean.

39 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 40 WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK CAMPING JUST FOR KIDS

Acadia National Park has four camp- Harbor, is open from May 22 through A visit to Acadia gives kids a chance to adults and $4 for children ages 11 to 17 grounds, all within a five-minute walk October 14. Camping is $30 a night get back to nature and learn about plant (10 and under are free), and include ad- of the ocean. Two are on Mount Desert for drive-up sites or $22 a night for the and animal life, living history and the won- mission at the Sieur de Monts museum. Island, and one is on Isle au Haut and many walk-in sites. ders of the ecosystem. At the same time, another is on the Schoodic Peninsula. These two campgrounds provide re- they’re able to gain a better appreciation STOP BY JORDAN POND HOUSE Additional camping facilities are located strooms with cold running water (but no of the role rangers play in keeping Amer- Kids will love the homemade popovers outside the park. shower facilities), picnic tables, fire rings, ica’s parks preserved for generations to and locally made strawberry jam at Jor- Blackwoods Campground is located dump stations and centrally located amphi- come. Here’s a helpful rundown of some dan Pond House. You can get blueberry off of Route 3, five miles south of Bar theaters for evening ranger programs. Des- fun ways kids can get involved. lemonade or soda, hot chocolate or root Harbor on the eastern half of Mount Des- ignated campsites can accommodate RVs beer to go with them. Kids can sit with ert Island. Approximately 300 campsites up to 35 feet long, but neither campground BECOME A JUNIOR RANGER parents at outdoor tables, or scamper are open from May to October. Reserva- has utility hookups. Public showers and Kids of all ages can become Junior through the grass while the adults enjoy tions are suggested and sites cost $30 camping supply stores are located within Rangers by completing the activities in the the views. a night in season. Major credit cards are half a mile of campgrounds. Junior Ranger booklet, which is available at accepted. Winter camping is by permit Located three miles south of Win- the visitor center. HIT THE BEACH only and facilities are limited. ter Harbor about 50 miles from Mount Children will enjoy the crashing waves ,located on Desert Island, Schoodic Woods Camp- VISIT THE NATURE CENTER and the combination of sand and shell frag- the western half of the island on Route ground is open May 22 until October 13. Check out displays and learn about cli- ments at Sand Beach. If you’re not ready 102A, four miles south of Southwest The site features hiking and biking trails, mate change through interactive exhibits. to brave the cold ocean waters here, try as well as electric and water hookups for heading over to the swimming area at Echo RVs. EXPLORE THE CARRIAGE ROADS Lake. Both areas have lifeguards who are Reservations can be made for all three Take kids on a horse-drawn carriage ride on duty from June through August. campgrounds six months in advance. For on Acadia’s carriage roads. Shutterstock more information or to make reserva- HIKE UP GORHAM MOUNTAIN tions, please call (877) 444-6777 or visit GO TO THE WATER This short hike ascends only 525 feet recreation.gov. Look for eagles, ospreys, harbor seals, por- and offers ocean views. During July and The park maintains five lean-to shel- poises and other marine life and birds. August, you can pick blueberries on some ters (which can accommodate up to six of Acadia’s mountains. people) at Duck Harbor Campground, DRIVE UP CADILLAC MOUNTAIN open May 15 to October 15, on pristine From the top, be the first in America to VISIT SCHOODIC PENINSULA Isle au Haut. Facilities include a picnic see the sun rise each day. Marvel at the surf’s sound and fury table, a fire ring, a portable toilet and a when it’s almost high tide. Tide informa- hand pump for drinking water. Reser- VISIT THE ABBE MUSEUM tion is posted at the visitor center and in vations are required and can be made A short walk from the Nature Center the ranger-led program schedule. online starting April 1. There is a $20 and down a path, the museum special-use permit fee. No dogs are al- houses American Indian artifacts like lowed in the campground. early pottery and bone and stone tools. TAKE YOUR MOMENTS AND This campground is very popular; re- Fees are $3 for adults and $1 for chil- SHARE WITH US serve early. For more information, call dren (ages 11 to 17). Also visit the Abbe Mount Desert Island’s campgrounds offer sites TELL US! overlooking the park’s beautiful waterways. (207) 288-3338 or visit recreation.gov. in downtown Bar Harbor. Fees are $8 for

41 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 42 NATURE & WILDLIFE

NATURE & WILDLIFE WATCHABLE WILDLIFE

Despite a number of ecological jack pines. But the best known is the white demands, including harsh winters and pine, which unlike spruce and , prefers overlapping land environments, Acadia’s sunlight to shadow. White pine grows flora and fauna have flourished. Most of the quickly, usually to heights of more than 100 park’s animals are adept at avoiding detec- feet. Because of its great size, it was once tion, but look carefully (and quietly) at dawn highly valued for sailing ship masts. 1 2 3 or dusk and you may see them feeding. To Acadia’s earliest inhabitants, no tree was more important than the pa- THE FOREST per birch. They used the birch’s tough, For centuries, evergreens dominated much white bark to craft baskets, and of northern Maine. When the last glacier re- wigwams. Prized by native tribes and ceded, spruce and balsam outnumbered settlers alike was the sugar maple, trees such as birch and aspen. whose sweet sap produces that New 4 5 6 These coniferous trees inhibited the growth England delicacy, maple syrup. of other vegetation with their long shad- 1 ATLANTIC PUFFIN (Fratercula arctica) 4 BLACK BEAR (Ursus americanus) ows and needles, which, as they decayed, THE WATER’S EDGE Often called “sea parrots” or “clowns of the sea,” It is unlikely that you’ll encounter a black bear. produced acidic soil. Acadia’s teems with marine these pigeon-sized birds have large, bright orange They are active from spring through fall, moving These resinous trees are also especially life that has adapted to Acadia’s twice-daily beaks and feet. They live in colonies on rocky is- through the woods and mountains eating berries, lands off the coast and aren’t visible from Mount fish or whatever food they can find. By fall, black quick to burn and slow to regenerate. Fol- tides, which range between 10 and 12 feet. Desert Island but can be seen during some boat bears claim a den beneath a rock or fallen tree lowing the 1947 fire, a new forest of sun- Just below the low-water mark is kelp, a cruises. • Weight 1 lb • Size 1 ft tall • Active spring to sleep for the winter. • Weight 200-600 lbs • worshipping birch, maple and aspen dense, brown seaweed that can withstand and summer. Photo: Shutterstock Size 5-6 ft long • Active spring, summer and fall. sprang up amid the surviving evergreens. 600 pounds of water force per square inch Photo: Shutterstock Thus, the fire increased the diversity of before breaking. Sheltered by the kelp are 2 (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) Acadia’s and the intensity of its , sea urchins, sea anemones, sea The national bird of the United States, the bald 5 COMMON LOON (Gavia immer) fall foliage. As they grow, the deciduous stars and jellyfish. Next closest to shore is eagle lives in coastal woodlands and along wa- Listen for the melodious call of the loon echo- trees produce the shade required by ever- Irish moss, a bushy, purplish-brown sea- terways, eating fish it catches with its talons. ing in the woods. Recognizable by their zebra- greens, and eventually spruce and fir will Bald eagles mate for life and can live up to striped necklace, glossy checkerboard feathers 30 years in the wild. Look for bald eagles near stand tall once more in Acadia. and sleek graceful form, these majestic birds Frenchman Bay. Their seven-foot wingspan Ramrod straight with reddish-brown can dive as deep as 300 feet to catch their prey. makes them hard to miss. • Weight 10-20 lbs They eat fish, , insects and vegetation.

bark and sharp, stiff needles, red spruce Shutterstock • Size 2-4 ft tall • Active year-round. Photo: • Weight 6-14 lbs • Size 28-36 in long • Active can grow as tall as 110 feet—although on Shutterstock year-round. Photo: Shutterstock Acadia’s rocky mountaintops, dwarf spruce one-tenth that size are common. Outside 3 BEAVER (Castor canadensis) 6 (Canis latrans) the park, red spruce is heavily logged for These large, broad-tailed build dams This buff- or gray-colored canine resembles pulp. White spruce, which has silvery- year-round. In September, they start reinforc- a but has a smaller build, narrower muz- brown bark and bluish-green needles, is ing their lodges and building food caches to zle and larger ears. While the coyote is not a prepare for winter. Look for them at dawn and also found here. common visitor toMount Desert Island, locals dusk, when they are most active. • Weight It is no accident that Maine is known report hearing its distinctive “singing” at night. 30-60 lbs • Size 35-50 in long, including tail • Weight 20-50 lbs • Size 30-40 in (head and body) as the “Pine Tree State.” Several species Acadia’s intertidal zone is teeming with life • Active in Maine year-round. Photo: Shutterstock • Active in Maine year-round. Photo: Shutterstock thrive in Acadia, including red, pitch and including crabs, sea urchins and sea anemones. 43 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 44 NATURE & WILDLIFE NATURE & WILDLIFE

WATCHABLE WILDLIFE weed. When processed, it becomes car- mon loon to the majestic bald eagle rageenan, a thickening agent used in ice and . Sea ducks cream, cheese, salad dressing and choco- also frequent the coastal waters, par- late milk. ticularly during the winter months. Of At the high-water mark, you’ll find a particular note are , red- white layer of acorn . These breasted mergansers, common ei- minute float to shore and at- ders, black scoters, surf scoters and tach to rocks, ship bottoms and pilings, white-winged scoters. The 7 8 9 then they form a tough, conical shell. has a puffy, bonnet-shaped brow, while Periwinkles, tiny snails half an inch long, the sleek merganser has a crested, almost feed on wet with a rough tongue punkish coiffure. Surf scoters are known called a radula. as “skunk ducks,” not because of their A lichen, pale gray in color and known scent but rather for their black-and-white as old man’s beard, festoons the spruce markings. trees that grow near shore. Like their moun- Black guillemots are distinct both in 10 11 12 taintop cousins, the trees and plants that sight and sound—they have brilliant red 7 HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina) 10 RED (Vulpes vulpes) grow along the coast are often dwarfed feet, a white wing patch and raucous These playful animals bask in the sun on ledges You may see hunting hare and small ro- and twisted—the result of fierce winds and squawks. These impressive birds nest and islands at low tide, especially in spring and dents in open fields and salt marshes, or dart- highly saline ocean spray. on Long Porcupine Island and are visible summer. At high tide, they take to the water, ing across the park’s roads and carriage roads along its steep ledges. Guillemots can displaying admirable grace as they hunt for her- by night. rear their pups in dens. During MARINE WILDLIFE dive as deep as 165 feet to catch their fa- ring, mackerel and other fish. Harbor seals are of- fall and winter, their red-brown coats become Spotting marine wildlife from aboard vorite treats—cod and mollusks. ten grey with either dark or light spots or rings. • thick and richly colored. • Weight 6-24 lbs • Size a boat off the coast of Acadia National Dozens of brightly colored warblers Weight 110-350 lbs • Size 18-36 in long • Active 15-30 in long • Active April through August. Park is a favorite visitor activity. Some of summer in Acadia, filling the woods with year-round. Photo: Shutterstock Photo: Shutterstock the most commonly seen include their cheerful songs. It is no wonder Aca- 8 11 HARE (Lepus americanus) the finback, which ranges from 30 to 70 dia is known as a birdwatcher’s paradise. (Megaptera novaeangliae) In winter these hares molt their gray-brown coats feet in length and has a distinctive white See the “Things to Do” chapter for in- These migratory baleen whales can be seen and grow white fur, which provides camouflage stripe across the right side of its jaws; formation about birdwatching in Acadia. during boat cruises off the coast of Maine. The against the snow and helps them from preda- the humpback, which is 30 to 60 feet in Gulf of Maine is one of several major feeding ar- tors like coyotes and foxes. The stiff hairs on their length and is noted for its acrobatic be- eas in the North Atlantic Ocean. No two whale feet form a “snowshoe,” supporting their weight havior, knobby head and snout; and the tails are alike—each humpback’s flukes have a on the surface of the snow. • Weight 2-4 lbs smaller minke, which is usually less than Shutterstock distinct black and white pattern. • Weight 30-40 • Size 16-20 in long • Active year-round. 20 feet in length. Puffins can also be seen tons • Size 49-53 ft long • Active summer and Photo: Shutterstock on islands along Acadia’s coast. See the fall. Photo: Shutterstock 12 WHITE-TAILED DEER “Things to Do” chapter for more informa- 9 THE BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle) (Odocoileus virginianus) tion about ranger-led nature cruises and Is quite a striking sight with its bright-red feet and These tall and graceful deer are plentiful in Acadia tours. black feathers. The guillemot is only truly black in and are most often seen in areas with open fields. summer, however; its feathers turn mostly white They have a tan coat and a tail with a white un- BIRDS in winter. This bird eats mostly fish, and can stay derside, which is visible when they run or sense Located at the juncture of the north- underwater for up to two minutes and 20 sec- danger. They feed on grasses, tree buds, nuts ern and temperate life zones, Acadia at- onds. • Weight 11 to 17 oz • Size 12 to 12.5 in • and acorns. • Weight 110-300 lbs • Size 6-8 ft tall tracts more than 300 species of sea, Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock • Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock Several companies offer daily puffin-viewing shore, and land birds, from the com- tours from the end of May to mid-August.

45 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | | ACADIA NATIONAL PARK 46 PHOTOGRAPHY

For millennia, we’ve looked towards the tion. Next, set your white balance to daylight heavens and contemplated what’s beyond settings (5500k) and turn on your mirror lock our orbit and universe. More recently, star- to avoid mirror shake. Wait until the moon is gazing has become increasingly difficult for out, too, as it’ll illuminate and add detail to millions of people living in developed areas. If your foreground. Make sure that it’s behind you live in a populated area east of the Missis- you. To capture star trails: sippi or along the Pacific coast, odds are that • Set your ISO at 200 to reduce digital noise. you can count the number of stars you see • Compose your image, making sure you on your hands. National and state parks—re- have interesting features in the foreground. mote and minimally developed—not only pro- • Choose your focal length. The longer the tect our land, but also our dark skies which focal length, the quicker your star trails will are ideal for astrophotography. start to form. There are two primary types of astropho- • Set your camera to manual mode so that tography shots that yield different, but stel- you can select your shutter speed and lar compositions. A long exposure setting aperture. will show stars trailing across the sky, while • Set your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 for a shorter exposure will show pinpoints of best results. light—objects that a camera can capture that • Select “bulb mode” as your shutter speed. the unaided eye cannot. Both require a cam- • Use your cable release or remote to open era with interchangeable lenses and manual the shutter or set your timer for two to controls to set aperture, ISO, and exposure four minutes. settings. Here’s what you’ll need to start: Check your results. If your picture is too • A sturdy tripod: Simply put, a shaky tri- dark, increase the exposure time. If your trails pod will yield blurry photos. are to short, increase the exposure time. • A cable release or remote control or in- Keep playing around with your settings to get tervalometer: You’ll want to avoid touch- the results you desire. To learn how to take ing your camera to minimize shake. The photos of the milky way and millions of points addition of an intervalometer will allow you of light, visit ohranger.com/brightskies. to take sequential long exposures. • Batteries: Your aperture may be open for several hours, so it’s important to have

multiple fresh and fully charged batteries. Shutterstock • A wide lens: Use the fastest, widest lens available. • A head lamp: It’ll be useful to set up your equipment and illuminate your foreground. Check the cloud cover; if there’s too much wait until you have a clearer night. Before you start, set your focus to infinity and turn Photographing the night sky is as close as many off your autofocus and high ISO noise reduc- of us will get to exploring space.

47 ACADIA NATIONAL PARK | IF YOU ONLY HAVE A DAY

Acadia’s compact size makes it easy to series of mountain peaks. There are fre- take in many of the park’s highlights in one quent turnouts where you can stop to ad- day. To make the most of your time, begin mire the views. On a clear day, you can see your day before 9 a.m. During the summer, Schoodic Point from Otter Cliffs. At the the park is busiest between 10 a.m. and South Bubble turnout, look for the large 2 p.m. Don’t try to crowd too much into boulder on the mountaintop that was left your day. See what you can, see it well and behind by a receding glacier. make plans for a return trip. If time and weather permit, park your car and sample some of Acadia on foot. VISITOR CENTER Some short but scenic walks include the Hulls Cove Visitor Center opens at dramatic Ocean Path along Frenchman 8 a.m. in July and August. An interpretive Bay, the hike up Gorham Mountain display includes information about the park and the trail along the shore of Jordan and works from Acadia’s artists in resi- Pond. Stop by the Jordan Pond House dence. You can also pick up a free map and for warm popovers and fresh-squeezed other park literature here. lemonade. The Park Loop Road culminates with the PARK LOOP ROAD drive to the summit of 1,530-foot Cadil- Acadia’s Park Loop Road is an ideal day lac Mountain. From here, you’ll be able trip. This 27-mile loop takes in much of to survey all of Acadia and the surrounding the eastern half of Acadia, winding along bays—a view that is especially spectacular the rocky coast past Sand Beach, Thunder at day’s end, when the setting sun suf- Hole and Otter Cliffs. It then swings inland fuses the landscape with its warm light. through the park’s wooded interior, past Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake and past a MOUNT DESERT ISLAND To finish off your day in Acadia, spend your evening strolling among the shops and restaurants of one of Mount Des- ert Island’s quaint communities. You Shutterstock can also take a sunset or moonlight sail on Frenchman Bay, named for French explorer Samuel de Champlain. Should you decide to stay the night, choose among the island’s many inns, hotels and bed-and-breakfasts.

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