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A Study on Surrealistic Expression in Modern Fashion+ - Focusing on Surrealistic Fashion in 1990S Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 8, No. 6, pp.39~56(2004) A Study on Surrealistic Expression in Modern Fashion+ - Focusing on Surrealistic Fashion in 1990s - Yang, Chieu-Kyung Professor, Dept. of Clothing Sungshin Women’s University Abstract At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s. Key words: Surrealistic fashion, Depaysment, Automatism, Paradox, Hybridization I. Introduction for future lines. Surrealism in art became dominant when At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, Manifesto Surrealism was founded by Andre but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial Breton in 1924. According to the definition of art and fashion circles, more so than any other surrealism in the first Manifesto Surrealism, genre of art. The critical thinking methods of “Surrealism expresses our practical thoughts surrealism and its mode of expression continues through many and varied forms, sometimes by to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, speaking, sometimes by writing and sometimes surrealism may be found in the designs by using other methods. This means that presented in fashion circles and is still expected surrealism is free from the conscious control of + This paper was supported by Dr. Lee Sewoong’s Studying Fund 2001. 39 Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 8, No. 6 reason and that it expresses all the thoughts in all 1990 up to 2000. the areas free from our aesthetic and moral The research unfolded in the following order: conventions.1) For the theoretical background of research, I Performance Art is greatly influenced by examined the formation background of surrealism, which creates dreamlike worlds Surrealism with its principles, expressive through artistic fantasia and is based on the techniques, aesthetics and the surrealist trend association of objects and later free techniques. shown in the clothing in 1990s. At the same time, In art, the experiences as well as the varied I analyzed the works of foreign designers techniques expand to incorporate the unknown advocating surrealism, and studied the point of imaginations. Even such an extremest theory in view in which surrealistic clothes agree to the the realm of art finds there’s no object that the art clothing aesthetics. My examination includes the cannot deal with. implementation of essential functions of clothing, In contemporary fashion, new materials are expressing human nature in harmony with men. being used. The range of materials becomes Literary materials were collected for this diversified; the existing styles and notions of theoretical study from relevant literature, general beauty are broken. Style, beyond our fashion dictionary, design-related literature, imagination, becomes diversified and more periodicals, and other local articles. In selecting complicated. These elements will form the photos, the selection was made from local and characteristics of clothing in the future. In this foreign relevant technical books with the latest context, the purpose of the research is to relate concerns and interest because these clothes surrealism to modern aesthetics of clothing, affected by surrealism had been considered. exploring every mode of expression from objects Any significant results of this research could be to humans and their spirits. A new possibility of devoted to the development of the clothing Surrealistic expression is attempted to extend the culture in pursuit of the future. area of creativity of clothing and the development For the research on the aesthetic value and of clothing as art. The purpose of the research is artistry of clothing aims at analyzing the clothing, to help forecast future trends by freshly and more positively approaching the new spirit of presenting the clothing of surrealism, and to the world. The method of conscious structure and dedicate to the development of creative clothing the expression of the living sense of modern in pursuit of the future by an original, creative, people are the process of creative procedures. experimental spirit. Looking at the preceding research, Kwon Hyuk This study is significant that up-to-date Mi studied the formative expression of clothing in technological culture expands cyber-space and the 20th century; Chang Dae Sik studied the increases surrealistic expressions by combined various modes of expression; Yoo Deuk Reong, heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much the formative and the informative in paintings; interest. The purpose of this study is to determine Park Seon Kyung, the world of Elsa Schiaparelli’s interrelationship between how surrealism works; Park Sunwi. A study on the surrealistic developed and what formative properties those expression in fashion modeling. clothes affected by surrealism obtained from 40 Yang, Chieu-Kyung/A Study on Surrealistic Expression in Modern Fashion II. Histrical Context of Surrealism German philosophers, especially Nietzsche5). In Chirico’s paintings such as Melancholy and 1. Emergence of Dadaism Mystery of a Street, Disquieting Muses(Fig. 1), he describes irony and unfamiliarity like enigmas The birth of surrealism can be traced to which are composed of fantastic and dreamlike Dadaism2). The late l9th century is generally strength of the subjects. considered the birth of the period of Modernism Surrealists fanaticized over the realm of in art. Chirico’s painting. The emphasis on the sense of No distrust or fear toward machines is absurdity is derived from the combination of revealed, but entering the 20th century, the start incongruous elements, subconscious awareness, of conflicting international interests ensues. and other prevalent characteristics. Chirico’s The Tension among advanced 1st world countries Song of Love, 1914, especially, conveys distinct and capitalism appears. Europeans witness the metaphysical characteristics. In The Song of outbreak of World War I, the unprecedented war Love, red rubber gloves for surgical operation of wars in Man’s history. Consequently, the social and Apollo’s marble head are placed as sharp and cultural ramifications include a deep oppositions. The green ball painted near the pessimism toward the human condition and the bottom of the frame functions as a symbol of world3). In a spiritual aspect, critical thinking of unity, which combines the two contrary objects. religion emerges. A developing mood of nihilism The isolation of such fantastic elements and the takes root throughout Europe. experimental manipulation of materials are In 1919, Surrealism was born in part by the important to the establishment of the basic psychoanalytic theory developed by Sigmund principles of the aesthetics of Surrealism. Chirico Freud, the dialectics of G. W. F. Hegel, and the is considered a pioneer of Surrealism. metaphysical paintings of G. de Chirico based on Dadaism. The basic idea of Dadaism originates from being faithful to the intrinsic desire of individuals; but Dadaism stresses the simple negation and destruction of the convention, and does not offer any concrete substitutes for the negation of reason and rationalism. Surrealism shows the inner world of the consciousness4). 2. Metaphysical Paintings of Giorgio de Chirico Many of the surrealistic artists adored G. de Chirico and were influenced by him, but Chirico himself was a painter who was influenced by the <Fig. 1> The Disquleting Muses by De Chirico, 1917 41 Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 8, No. 6 3. Psychoanalysis of Sigmund Freud Automatism. Depaysment, a French word which can be Surrealists sought to explore the imagination, translated as “transposition” or “translocation,” the dream world, and the origin of the originally means leaving one’s dear hometown or unconscious. Artists not only characteristically one’s country. Later, it becomes a typical mode developed keen attentions to the profound of expression in Surrealism, which separates an psychology of Sigmund Freud, but were also object from its usual places, and puts it in an 6) greatly influenced by his psychoanalytic work . unfamiliar place-completely different from its Freud’s psychoanalysis represents the 20th original character-in order to elicit psychological century’s ideology of socio-science in which shock in the mind of the viewer8). By doing this,
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