(Family Araceae) in Karbi Anglong District, Assam

NeBIO I www.nebio.in I June 2019 I 10(2): 80-84

ETHNOBOTANICAL STUDY OF DIETARY USE AND CULINARY KNOWLEDGE OF AROIDS (FAMILY ARACEAE) IN KARBI ANGLONG DISTRICT, ASSAM

Robindra Teron Department of Life Science & Bioinformatics, Assam University- Diphu Campus, Diphu, Karbi Anglong, Assam- 782 462, India Email: [email protected]

ABSTRACT

Dietary use, culinary knowledge and conservation of aroids among ethnic groups of Karbi Anglong district, Assam state (India) is presented here. Method of investigation included participatory inventory, semi-structured interview and on-farm demonstrations by key farmers. Ethnobotanical knowledge of utilization of 32 aroid species is reported. Both cultivated and wild aroids, form major component of food basket and also contribute towards household livelihood. Colocasia esculenta with 18 locally recognised farmer varieties is by far the most extensively utilized species. Culinary knowledge of aroids occupies unique position in the food practice of tribal communities. For the presence of acridity factor raphides of calcium oxalate crystals, aroids require special processing for consumption. Culinary knowledge of aroids is polarised with women and the same is acquired after long experience of personal involvement. Ethnic communities are preservers of indigenous varieties of aroids which they continue to conserve in their jhum fields and homestead gardens. Folks also practice sustainable gathering techniques that contribute to the management and conservation of aroid diversity.

KEYWORDS: Aroids, diet, culinary, Karbi Anglong, Assam.

Introduction which is attributed to raphides of calcium oxalate. For this, aroids Karbi Anglong district (10,434 sq km, 25⁰32′ to 26⁰37′ N and require processing to remove the irritating factor. Many species 92⁰09′ to 93⁰53′ E) in Assam state, Northeast India is inhabited are consumed as substitute for rice during scarcity of the latter by different ethnic groups such as Karbi, Dimasa, Rengma Naga, while some aroids are traded to generate cash income. Aroids Kuki, Garo, Tiwa, Pnars, Boro and a few plain tribes. The people thus, contribute to food security, livelihoods and household well are mainly agrarian and agriculture is their main occupation. Rice being of many resource poor families in the district. Taro or is the staple food supplemented by wild vegetables (leaves, fruits, Colocasia esculenta, with many farmer varieties, is the most rhizomes, etc). Aroids constitute one of the important categories extensively cultivated aroid species. The species also grows in of plants in the diet of ethnic groups in the district. Both cultivated wild habitat as weeds and form potential resource of human food and wild species are consumed throughout the year. Farmers in and animal feed particularly for pigs. Culinary knowledge of aroids the region recognise and cultivate many local varieties and in the is polarised in tribal societies of Karbi Anglong district- women process conserving genetic diversity of this important food plants. have superior culinary knowledge of aroids than their male All parts are consumed but people maintain preference during counterpart. Therefore, selection and method of processing is different seasons of the year due to presence of irritating principle critical for palatability, taste and texture of aroids as human food.

Received 4 February 2019 I Accepted 12 April 2019 I Published online 21 May 2019

Citation: Teron, R. 2019. Ethnobotanical study of dietary use and culinary knowledge of Aroids (family Araceae) in Karbi Anglong district, Assam. NeBIO 10(2): 80-84

Acknowledgements I am grateful to all informants and ethnic farmers for their participation and sharing their knowledge. I thank University Grants Commission, New Delhi for financial grant.

NeBIO, An International Journal of Environment and Biodiversity Official publication of North East Centre for Environmental Education (NECEER), Imphal I ISSN 2278-2281 (Online), 0976-3597 (Print) I www.nebio.in

Teron » Ethnobotanical study of dietary use and culinary knowledge of Aroids in Karbi Anglong district, Assam NeBIO 10(2): 80-84

Acquiring knowledge of farmers’ varieties of aroids is highly visiting potential habitats of aroids and free walk along villages empirical but not uniform; children are slow learners but some and forest transect with key informants. I interviewed 33 women adults are not able to identify all aroids in his/her region of belonging to the Karbi, Dimasa, Tiwa and Pnar groups to settlement. In recent years, wild taro is being largely exploited by document dietary use of aroids- selection, culinary knowledge and rural folk in piggery; the latter occupation has been source of conservation of aroids. Narrations of folks were substantiated by livelihoods in rural Karbi Anglong. Dietary use and culinary personal observations and demonstrations by farmers in knowledge, and management and conservation of aroids are homestead gardens and jhum fields. The plants were collected objectives of the present investigation. from natural habitats (wetlands, forest, etc) for botanical identification (Rao and Verma 1976) and processed for preparation Aroid commonly refers to the members of plant family Araceae, a of voucher specimens following the methods of Jain and Rao monocot group with about 105 genera and 3040 species (1977). distributed throughout the world, mainly in the tropical and subtropical regions but there are also many temperate species. Results and discussion Aroids are the world’s oldest crops, and were the most widely Dietary use of aroids distributed starch food plants during the 16th and 19th century. The Aroids are consumed by populations in all parts of the globe. most common use of aroids around the world is as food Aroids constitute potential source of diet, nutrition and livelihoods (Mathews, 2004; Pardales Jr., 1997) but requires processing to in rural Karbi Anglong district. Many species are cultivated by remove crystals of calcium oxalates. Croat (1994) reported use of farmers in homestead gardens and in jhum fields while some 161 species of Araceae as medicines by populations in North and species are gathered from wild habitats for consumption and South America. Most aroids are edible and an equal number are other purposes. Thirty two species are reported here (one medicinals. Aroids contribute to global production of tuberous specimen has not been identified); summary of aroids consumed crops. Many aroids are used as famine food by indigenous people and techniques of cooking is presented in Table 1. Taro or (or tribal communities) around the world. Among aroids taro Colocasia esculenta with 18 farmers’ varieties is the most (Colocasia sp.) is the most cultivated genus worldwide. Taro is extensively cultivated species. Taro also occurs in wild habitats believed to have originated in South East Asia including India like wetlands, swamps and along roads as weeds and often (Watt, 1889); in India, taro is cultivated in almost all the states gathered for consumption during spring and autumn seasons. (Edison et al, 2006) for food and commerce. Despite rapid Though all parts of aroids are consumed whole plant is gathered research on aroids around the world information on taxonomy, in case of a few species only, for example Colocasia esculenta diversity and distribution of aroidsin North Eastern region of India and Lasia spinosa (all parts); wild taro, Homalomena and is not adequate (Rao and Verma, 1976) and study of folk use of Amorphophallus (leaf, petiole); Amorphophallus sp., Remusatia aroids among its diverse ethnicity deserve urgent attention from and Alocasia indica (corm). Spathes of all cultivated species and all fields of study. wild taro are consumed; it forms the most revered delicacy over other edible parts. The common preparation techniques for Wetlands and tropical forests are common habitats of arums also consumption are baking, roasting, boiling and fermentation; called aroids. The large genera of Araceae includes Anthurium baking and roasting is adopted for petioles of Amorphophallus sp. (900 species), Philodendron (500 species) and Arisaema (150 only and for corms of some species. Fermentation has been species). In India some 4 genera and 136 species are found with reported for Homalomena aromatica, Colocasia esculenta and familiar examples like Colocasia, Amorphophallus, Monstera, Lasia spinosa. During famine, aroids particularly corms and tubers Pistia, Arisaema, Pothos, Rapidophora, etc. Representative of form source of starchy food which people use to tide over hunger. Araceae exhibit diverse habits such as perennial and tuberous Corms and tubers of wild species are also exploited as famine herbs (Arisaema, Arum), some are climber shrubs (Monstera, food; the most prominent with long history of use is Lasia spinosa. Pothos) or true epiphytes (Anthurium) or aquatic (Pistia) or marshy Aroids both cultivated and wild species provide dietary diversity in herbs (Acorus, Lasia). Flowers borne in spathe are protogynous traditional tribal food systems; consumers have positive attitude and pollination takes place through the agency of insects towards this local plant food. It provides an opportunity for (Entomophily). Insects are attracted by the colourful spathe and income generation throughout the year which many low resource the strong offensive odour emitted by the inflorescence. Some families does by selling leaves and petiole, solons, spathes and species of Alocasia and Amorphophallus are pollinated by snails. corms in local markets or house to house in urban areas. Among Fruits and seeds are dispersed by birds. wild species Pothos and local varieties C. esculenta have demand in local markets. In recent years, wild taro is being largely Materials and methods exploited by rural folk in piggery (Table 1). Generally pigs are fed Field study was undertaken during 2012 among the Karbis, twice (may be thrice) daily with fermented rice and paddy husk. Dimasa, Tiwa and Pnar (Jaintia) ethnic groups in Karbi Anglong But these resources being costly, rural folk has been exploiting district (10,434 sq km, 25032′ to 26037′ N and 92009′ to 93053′ E), weeds, Colocasia esculenta being the main candidate, to feed Assam state (India). After obtaining consent of respective growing practice of piggery in the district. This unique trend has community elders a list of edible aroids, both wild and cultivated put local weeds under control while converting the same into was prepared by Rapid Ethnobotanical Appraisal method (Martin, valuable local resources. 1995) involving group discussions, semi-structured interview and

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Table 1. Inventory of edible aroids in Karbi Anglong district, Assam for human consumption and animal feed. Sl. No. Scientific name Vernacular name Status Method of consumption 1 Alocasia cucullata (Lour.) G. Don Wild, weed; Terrestrial Whole plant as pig feed; Corm eaten as chutney by Tiwa community 2 Alocasia indica (Lour.) Spach. Bor kochu Cultivated; Terrestrial Corm as vegetable; has commercial values

3 Alocasia macrorrhiza (L.) G. Don Mainepat Wild; Terrestrial Rhizome eaten in salad; petioles and leaves as pig feed 4 Alocasia sp. Henchala Wild; Aquatic Tender shoot & corm as vegetable 5 Alocasia sp. Henru ehong Wild; Terrestrial Petioles and leaves given for pigs 6 Amorphophalus bulbifer (Roxb.) Hensarilong hensarku Wild; Terrestrial Petioles eaten as snacks after baking in Blume charcoal or hot ash 7 Amorphophalus campanulatus Hensarilong, hensarku Cultivated; Terrestrial Corm cooked with dried fish and ash solution; (Roxb.) Bl. ex. Decne. petioles eaten as snack after baking in hot ash 8 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Arlok henru Wild; Terrestrial Leaves and petioles cooked with dried fish and ash solution; also as pig feed 9 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hen patum Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution 10 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hen pongsi Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution 11 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hendar cheri Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms and stolons eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution 12 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hendar keme Cultivated; Terrestrial Leaves, stolons & corms eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution 13 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hendongki Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms eaten after cooking with or without dried fish and ash solution as vegetable 14 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hen-i Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms eaten after cooking with or without dried fish and ash solution 15 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Henphang Cultivated; Terrestrial Leaves & corms as vegetable 16 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hensek Cultivated; Terrestrial Leaves and corms cooked with or without dried fish and ash solution 17 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hensek mek-ang Cultivated; Terrestrial Leaves & corms consumed after cooking with dried fish and ash solution 18 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hentibuk Cultivated; Terrestrial Leaves & corms eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution 19 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Hentong Cultivated; Terrestrial Corms eaten cooked with or without dried fish and ash solution 20 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Kawai sangki Wild; Lithophytes Leaves and petioles usually cooked with dried fish and ash solution 21 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Lang henru Wild; Aquatic Leaves, petioles & stolons as vegetable and also pig feed 22 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Langhenru ake-ik Wild, weed; Aquatic Petioles and stolons eaten cooked; also important pig feed 23 Colocasia esculenta (L.) Schott Henchojak Wild; Terrestrial Tender leaves and corms eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution as vegetable 24 Colocasia esculenta syn C. Henru ke-ik Wild; Aquatic Leaves & corms as vegetable antiquorum Schott 25 Colocasia gigantea (Blume) J. D. Thamenai akelok Cultivated; Terrestrial Tender leaves & petioles cooked with or Hooker without dried fish and ash solution 26 Homalomena aromatica (Roxb.) Okhi atehang Wild; Terrestrial Tender leaves as vegetable; also eaten Schott fermented 27 Homalomena sp. Chetung an Wild; Terrestrial Tender leaves eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution as vegetable 28 Lasia spinosa (L.) Thw. Chusot Wild; Marsh Tenders leaf eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution as vegetable 29 Monstera sp. Karle phenu Wild; Terrestrial Tender leaves eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution as vegetable 30 Not identified* Han sangbi Wild; Epiphyte Tender leaves eaten cooked with dried fish and ash solution; revered dish with slimy touch 31 Pistia stratiotes L. Wild; Aquatic Whole plant usually given for pigs 32 Remusatia sp. Thengkok henru Wild; Epiphyte Corms eaten after baking in hot ash; famine food

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Selection and culinary knowledge of aroids water interferes with destruction of the crystal structure of Culinary knowledge of aroids occupies unique position in the food oxalates. Chemical analysis of food will be able to reveal changes systems of tribal communities in Karbi Anglong district, Assam. in calcium oxalate content during different stages of cooking and For the presence of raphides of calcium oxalate, which causes under different techniques. Aerial parts (leaves, petioles and acidity or irritation, aroids require special processing for spathes) of aroids are often cooked alone but cooking with tomato consumption. Identification and selection of aroid species and and fruits of Zizyphus jujuba makes the delicacy revered. The processing technique therefore, are critical for palatability, taste above processing method is also adopted for immature corms and texture of aroids as human food. During field study I observed with high slimy content. For mature corms specific processing is culinary knowledge of aroids is polarised with women and the not required as such food has less oxalate content. Mature same is acquired through experience. In general women possess corms, after washing can be directly boiled together will all better culinary knowledge than their male counterpart and such ingredients. Addition of cold water between cooking does not knowledge is usually transmitted through female members only. cause irritation and the dish is palatable. Selection and time of collection are important for processing aroids. Generally, aroids are not preferred during rainy season of There is great diversity of consumption of aroids, boiling being the the year as it is not palatable due to high oxalate content. Though most predominant one. During vegetative growth petioles of all parts are consumed, collection of the different parts is highly Amorphophalus bulbifer are eaten after baking in charcoal or hot patterned. From the month of August stolons are harvested for ash. It is pleasant with no irritation to complain; I have taken this consumption and even sold in local markets by poor rural families. aroid after baking many times during field study. Corms of many Leaves of cultivated species are also gathered during this period species are eaten cooked; some farmers’ varieties are particularly for consumption. eaten after baking or roasting and boiling. Recognition of farmers’ varieties and culinary knowledge provides information on the Spadix (inflorescence) is also consumed and such dish is distribution and genetic diversity of aroids; a positive correlation considered revered. Barring rainy season, aerial parts are of culinary knowledge and genetic diversity has been reported for collected throughout the year. For commercial purpose corms are taro (Mathews, 2004). Declining attitude of consumers towards harvested from September onwards but for household wild foods particularly that require specific processing method consumptions the produce is harvested only after aerial parts like aroids may pose threat to local culinary knowledge. have partially withered. For wild varieties of Colocasia esculenta, the period from February till arrival of rainy season is considered Conservation and management of aroids best for collection of aerial parts. Good empirical knowledge Ethnic communities are preservers of indigenous species and however, is perquisites for processing oxalates present in aroids. varieties of aroids which they continue to cultivate in their jhum Traditional methods of detoxification of plant foods are practised fields and homestead gardens. Cultural practices adopted by in different cultures world-wide (Johns and Kubo, 1988). them, a knowledge system inherited from their ancestors, contribute towards both in situ and ex situ conservation aroid Aroids require specific processing and cooking knowledge to germplasms. Corms are harvested after aerial parts have remove the irritating principle which is attributed to calcium withered, an indicator for maturity, and left in the field for a few oxalate. A brief account of traditional methods of processing aroid days to dry. Drying is the common technique of storage in rural foods practised by ethnic groups of Karbi Anglong district is villages. Corms of better quality (based on experience of farmers) presented here though complete processing is seldom achieved. are placed in perforated bamboo baskets and subtended near (not Methods of processing vary with the parts used (for example, above) fire place. Alternatively corms after cleaning the soil are leaves, inflorescence and corms) and season. Cleaning and spread over a bamboo platform protected from rain and dew. washing are preliminary steps but important for proper Knowledge of such storage practice is transmitted to all members processing. For aerial parts like leaves and inflorescence, they are of the family by virtue of their association with post harvest cut into pieces, washed with water and placed on sieve to dry practices. because too much water is said to interfere with removal of the irritating factor. Many folks prefer to wash the foods before Management of wild aroids however, require specialised cutting into pieces; this practice is more productive as it prevents knowledge which a person acquires through experience and so penetration of water into tissues and therefore, facilitates proper this cultural knowledge is mostly confined with elders and not destruction of calcium oxalate crystals. Quantity of water used for within the domain of children for obvious reason of lack of cooking is critical; the food is boiled in adequate quantity of water experience. Wild varieties of Colocasia esculenta constitute till tissues become soft. If excess foam is produced as a result of important source of food throughout the year. To conserve one of boiling, common salt is added to subdue the foam. Then other their important food resources, folks practice sustainable ingredients like dry fish, ash water (pholo), salt, garlic, etc are selection and gathering techniques that contributes to added; excess water is evaporated by further cooking. No fresh conservation of aroids in natural habitat. The corms are usually water is added in between as this is said to produce irritation of not collected except during scarcity of staple food (i.e., rice). throat on consumption. Probably cold water encourages formation Before rains only petioles are collected leaving the corms for or recovery of calcium oxalate crystals; another probability is cold regeneration and after rainy season stolons are collected without

83 ISSN 2278-2281 (Online), 0976-3597 (Print) I www.nebio.in Teron » Ethnobotanical study of dietary use and culinary knowledge of Aroids in Karbi Anglong district, Assam NeBIO 10(2): 80-84 uprooting the plants. Further, aroids are generally collected from fields and homestead gardens. Cultural practice of selection and previously collected populations. According to local beliefs, harvesting of aroids particularly wild species is sustainable which regularly collected populations develop less acridity and so contributes to management and conservation of aroids in their produce palatable food while unharvested populations are very natural habitats. In recent years, wild taro is being largely acrid and so not palatable for consumption. Such collection exploited by rural folk in piggery, converting these weedy plants practice inspired by cultural beliefs has dual benefits- i) the into valuable local resource. regularly harvested populations form local sources of food and by virtue of sustainable gathering the populations are managed for References years and ii) germplasms of other populations of aroids which are Croat, T.B. 1994. The use o f the New World Araceae as Drug not harvested are conserved in their natural habitat. Plants. J. Pn. Bot., 69: 185-203. Edison, S., Unnikrishnan, M., Vimala, B., Santha. V. P., Sheela, M. Conclusion N., Sreekumari, M. T. and Abraham, K. 2006. Biodiversity of Global contribution of aroids towards nutrition, food security and Tropical Tuber Crops in India, NBA Scientific Bulletin Number- livelihoods is remarkable. Homestead gardens and jhum practices 7. Central Tuber Crops Research Institute, Sreekariyam, constitute traditional means of conservation of many indigenous Thiruvananthapuram. species and farmers’ varieties of aroids. Equally wild aroids Johns, T. and Kubo, I. 1988. A Survey of Traditional Methods continue to be foraged for dietary needs and for animal feed as employed for the detoxification of plant foods. J. Ethnobiol., well. Colocasia esculenta with many farmers’ varieties is the most 8(1): 81-129. extensively utilized aroid in Karbi Anglong district of Assam state. Mathers, P.J. 2004. Genetic Diversity in Taro, and the Culinary knowledge of aroids also provides information on the preservation of culinary knowledge. Ethnobotany Research & distribution and genetic diversity of aroids. For its irritating Applications, 2:55-71. principle due to presence of Calcium oxalate crystals, aroids Pardales Jr., J.R. 1997. Ethnobotanical Survey of Edible Aroids in require processing for consumption. Preservation of such culinary the Philippines I. Farmers’ Beliefs, Experiences and Uses. knowledge therefore, is equivalent to preservation of genetic Philipp. J. Crop Sci., 22(1):1-7. diversity of aroids. Culinary knowledge is polarised with women Rao, A.S. and Verma, D.M. 1976. Materials towards monocot and the same is acquired only after long experience; alternatively, flora of Assam- V. Bull. Bot. Surv. Ind, 18:9-35. this is suggestive women are more actively engaged in preparing Watt, G. 1889. Dictionary of the economic plants of India. food than the males. Ethnic groups are preservers of indigenous Superintendent, Printing, Government of India, Calcutta, 2: varieties of aroids which they continue to cultivate in their jhum 509-513.

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