HO CHI MINH CITY ON A BUDGET

MAGAZINE FOR PACIFIC • 2ND QUARTER 2020 p28 AUSSIE AUTUMN Enjoy the change of seasons Down Under p73 TRAVELERS' HEALTH HANDBOOK Everything you need to remember about keeping safe and healthy

Take that dream vacation in

PALAWAN#BestIslands PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Kick back and relax at SETIR GETTING THERE Fly on Cebu Pacific to Francisco B. Reyes Airport from , Cebu, Clark, El Nido, and Boracay. The vacation begins the moment guests land — a member of the Sunlight team will welcome them at the airport and drive them to a private port at Sunlight Guest Hotel in Coron. From there, a speedboat will Slow whisk guests away to the island. EXTEND YOUR living in ADVENTURE To explore more of the luxury region, visitors can private beaches, high-octane jet check out the Sunlight Guest ski rides, hydrobob experiences Hotels in Coron and Puerto TAKE YOUR TIME TO and relaxing yacht cruises. EXPLORE PALAWAN Princesa. Here, guests will find Take a morning dip in the contemporary furnishings and FROM SUNLIGHT infinity pool, work up a sweat at top-notch customer service. ECOTOURISM the gym, or wind down with a Reconnect massage at the Sanctuary Spa. ISLAND RESORT with yourself Kick back and at SETIR relax by the Whatever you choose, you’ll beach at SETIR encounter sincere Filipino hospitality from the resort’s staff SETIR spans 18 hectares in — even from the moment you land at the airport. If you’re looking to venture further afield,SETIR offers AN ARCHIPELAGO tours to nearby islands, where BOASTING UNSPOILT you can immerse yourself in NATURAL ATTRACTIONS local culture. It’s also a short and a laid-back vibe, Palawan boat ride away from some of is a slice of paradise that is Palawan’s most popular sights, Sunlight Guest topping travel lists around the including Kayangan Lake, Hotel Coron world. Nestled in Culion — part Barracuda Lake and Twin of the Calamian group of islands Lagoon in Coron. The latter is an in northern Palawan — the especially picturesque spot, with luxurious Sunlight Ecotourism two turquoise lagoons separated Island Resort ( ) is just SETIR by dramatic limestone outcrops. the place to soak up the region’s At SETIR, you’ll discover numerous charms. that the true luxuries in life are Accessible by a 30-minute simple: the freedom to slow speedboat ride from the town of down, be immersed in nature, Coron, the sprawling 18ha resort and reconnect with loved ones is home to 54 water villas, which Water villas at SETIR Sunlight Guest Hotel Puerto Princesa and yourself. feature tropical-chic interiors and panoramic views of the Go diving ocean. There’s plenty to see and sunlighthotelsandresorts.com; +63 2 8657 1918 to 19, +63 945 113 3511, +63 917 521 4260; at SETIR do at SETIR: Think pristine [email protected] and [email protected]

Smile Apr 2020 Smile Apr 2020 Adv Sunlight Guest Hotel_Smile Apr20.indd 24 13/3/20 4:48 PM Adv Sunlight Guest Hotel_Smile Apr20.indd 25 13/3/20 4:48 PM SEET SEET THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO

PALAWANTo many travelers dreaming of an island paradise, Palawan sounds like the final frontier. The first thing to know about this intriguing province is that it isn’t just one place — within it are many different islands and unique destinations

BY AUDREY CARPIO PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO

alawan has long been Consistently found on “Best Palawan first-timers often ask the stuff tropical Island” and “Best Beach” lists, which among the province’s three fantasies are made Palawan isn’t a single island — most popular destinations — El Nido, of — in the ’90s, it much less a single beach — but the Puerto Princesa and Coron — they was the inspiration country’s largest province in size, should visit. The answer to that is for the setting of the a mini-archipelago that stretches always: You’re asking the wrong backpacker classic The Beach; more between the West Philippine Sea on question. Depending on how much thanP a decade later, it was the actual its left side and the on its time you have, visitors can fly into setting of The Bourne Legacy’s final right. All along its two coastlines, Puerto Princesa, drive up to El Nido, scene as Rachel Weisz and Jeremy from the southern end to the then take a ferry to Coron and fly Renner sail out to Bacuit Bay on a northern tip, are beaches, coves, out of Busuanga for an epic trip that junk ship. The province’s tagline as caves and forests that range from will spoil all further travels for them. “the ’ last frontier” has the completely unexplored to Otherwise, consider each place on its sealed its reputation as a place of constantly Instagrammed. To the own merits; all three areas have their unspoiled beauty and wild nature, northeast of the main island are the own charm and particular magic that where adventure awaits behind every Calamian group of islands, where deserves undivided attention. Here’s karst cliff. Coron is found. a primer to vacationing in paradise.

60 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020 2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 61 n the ’80s, El Nido was largely Puerto Princesa international a playground for wealthy airport it’s a five-hour car ride I foreigners who could afford on newly improved roads. While to stay at any of the three exclusive there are direct flights from major El Nido Resorts found off the main Philippine hubs to Lio, the private island. The sleepy fishing town of airport in the Ayala-owned Lio El Nido on the mainland developed Tourism estate, the airstrip can only a backpacker culture when locals accommodate turboprop planes. El Nido started renting out their rooms In town, accommodations range and eventually converting their from small pensions to modern residences into inns and lodges. establishments like Lagun Hotel, Lagoons of the bluest blue set against Attracting the adventurous traveler, while beachfront cottages, glamping PALAWAN the municipality offers unparalleled tents and eco-luxury resorts like inspiring limestone formations have discoveries both above and below Maremegmeg Beach Club dot the water, with a seascape that has even coast. The absence of large hotel made El Nido the iconic paradise entranced the late renowned chains have kept mass tourism oceanographer Jacques at bay for now, preserving getaway when you want to escape Cousteau. Lagoons of the bluest the convivial vibe where blue set against inspiring fellow travelers became part 1 from it all limestone formations have of a community. made El Nido the iconic The Palawan construction paradise getaway when and tourism boom started sometime you want to escape from in 2012, after Puerto Princesa’s it all. underground river was named one Today, it’s far more of the new seven wonders of the developed and world. While the influx of tourists WHERE TO STAY more accessible created revenue for both locals and than ever. foreigners, it also undoubtedly came Maremegmeg Beach Club From the at no small environmental cost. With With 12 luxury villas, an infinity pool overlooking the bay and a concerns that El Nido was becoming beach bar where you can drink overcrowded voiced through official in the sunset, Maremegmeg channels, the local government is a clear choice for the luxe unit scrambled to enforce its traveler. Here, the hotel’s details will make your stay feel even more special — contemporary Filipino art in every room, design Opposite page A view of elements from the tribes of Bacuit Bay 1 Maremegmeg Palawan, and a wilderness of Beach Club 2 Sunset at plants. Sitio Maremegmeg, Brgy Panorama Beach Club Corong Corong; +63 918 257 2981; maremegmeg.com

Lagun Hotel The first boutique hotel in El Nido town, Lagun has 37 artfully styled rooms and a roof deck pool with the most incredible backdrop of a limestone cliff. The hotel is also a stone’s throw away from El Nido beach, where all the tour boats take off. Balinsasayaw Rd, Brgy Maligaya; lagunhotel.com

Spin Designer Hostel A wallet-friendly option in El Nido town for the solo tripper who doesn’t want to compromise on ambiance and good vibes. Designed by travelers for travelers, this place puts a spin on the whole hostel experience with its community-centered activities for guests. Balinsasayaw Rd cor Calle Real, Brgy Maligaya; 2 spinhostel.com

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3 Maremegmeg beach 4 Soul Kitchen

WHERE TO EAT

Panorama Beach Club The most happening place in El Nido, Panorama Beach Club provides a sociable perch from which you can view the stunning PALAWAN Palawan sunset as you enjoy Spanish tapas, cocktails and DJ beats. For ₱1,500 (consumables), stake out a place at the lounges. Along the Taytay-El Nido National Highway, Corong-Corong; +63 998 240 5291; fb.com/panoramaelnido

Tambok’s Once a local landmark along the National Highway, Tambok’s recently reopened at the Lio Tourism Estate to make way for the highway expansion. Serving regional Filipino cuisine but skewed C toward Ilonggo fare, Tambok’s is

known for its chicken inasal made M from an old, authentic recipe. Lio Tourism Estate, next to Kalye Y Artesano; tamboks.ph CM

Soul Kitchen MY A small, simple vegan non-profit CY 3 restaurant that has a buy-one-give-

one philosophy. For ₱150, you get a CMY rice bowl with two veggie toppings and a coupon for a free meal to K environmental laws. Establishments back to El Nido. Christina hails from give away to any local. Feel-good that violated setback regulations Montreal, Canada, and has been all food for both the tummy and the were torn down and those without over the world and even all over the soul. Lisang St, Brgy Buena Suerte; +63 956 443 3480 proper waste management facilities Philippines — but she plans to make were shuttered, while a centralized El Nido her forever home this year, waste treatment plant is due to open trading in busyness for slow-paced, Filipino tropical modernity, also in October this year. intentional living. “I’ve met people practises sustainability in small In recent months, tourist arrivals here who have made it feel like ways, such as providing bamboo in Palawan have abated to more home,” she says. toothbrushes and glass water bottles, sustainable levels. This “unplanned One of those friends is Diggy and unwrapped soap made by a lady low season” presents a temporary Alvarez, who manages Maremegmeg in Puerto Princesa who will “never challenge to businesses, but also Beach Club, a new resort in sell you soap that you cannot eat”. gives the island — as well as other Corong Corong. As a strained tourist destinations — trained chef, he is particularly an opportunity to recover. As we hands-on with the hotel’s food, which 4 paddleboarded around Pinagbuyutan is some of the best on the island — Island, nobody else was on the beach the popularity of the beach bar’s save for a couple taking prenup ceviche is decidedly not attributable photos. In the quiet, you could almost to the Lenten season. Diggy has imagine what it must have been like seen how El Nido has responded to as ancient seafarers navigated their the calls for responsible tourism, ships through the maze of cliffs. specifically with its ban of single-use This experience of heading deeper plastics and its constant coastal and into the sublime is what keeps underwater cleanups. The resort, traveler Christina Di Minno coming a sumptuous design exercise in

64 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020 WHERE TO STAY

Blue Palawan Beach Club Puerto At night, this beachfront resort turns into a buzzy hot spot and event space with rotating guest DJs — it even hosts electronic

PALAWAN music festivals. Hidden Beach, BM Rd; bluepalawan.com

Astoria Palawan Sitting in a 5ha mango orchard, Princesa the hotel uses solar energy and has state-of-the art waste management facilities, making it one of Puerto Princesa’s greenest establishments. 5 Km 62 North National Highway; astoriapalawan.com

Atremaru Jungle Retreat he capital of Palawan, paddle boat tour, both Simple and rustic, nature is this Puerto Princesa, is situated managed by members of the Tagbanua resort’s most luxurious amenity. right in the middle of the tribe from Sabang. For a serene 45 It has an abundance of open T spaces, being nestled in a 25ha narrow main island. Once considered minutes, guests ride down a mangrove jungle park with access to a a stopover city and the jump-off river whose long, gnarled roots are private beach. Brgy Buenavista, point for the beaches of El Nido home to baby fish and an assortment Purok Madahon; +63 915 846 4895 and diving in Tubbataha, it started of other animals, including the receiving its own fair share of wormlike tamilok mollusk that’s a tourists when its subterranean river delicacy in these parts. The Tagbanua At the community-managed was voted as one of the world’s New guides, who once chopped down trees tourism site known as the Hundred Seven Wonders of Nature — after a to make charcoal, are now educating Caves, the locals previously made massive text-in campaign, of course. visitors on how mangrove forests a living from climbing the cliffs to The underground river in Sabang, an provide a natural defense against collect swiftlet nests, which were hour and a half from the city, remains erosion and flooding caused by used to make bird’s nest soup. This its most popular attraction. typhoons and climate change. was a dangerous practice that also If you’re averse to long lines and theme park-style rides, however, you may want to check out some of 6 Puerto Princesa’s lesser-known eco- tourism sites. Palawan still has half of its original forest cover, making it a prime destination for the adventure and nature traveler, with the potential to ease the burden of coastal tourism. Part of the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park is a 3.5 Opposite page Puerto Princesa is Palawan’s center km-long jungle Accommodations at Butanding Bar 5 The trek which Palawan Provincial of commerce that’s underrated as a leads to a Capitol building 6 Puerto Princesa Subterrenean tourist destination River National Park ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (5 & 6) (5 & 6) PHOTO PHOTO STOCK STOCK ALAMY ALAMY BY BY PHOTOS PHOTOS

66 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020 2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 67 damaged the sensitive limestone 7 ecosystem, so community organizers retrained the nest pickers to become caving guides instead, helping visitors explore the cave’s many dark, interconnected bat-filled chambers. Coron Ethical practices also extend to the shopping and sourcing scene t the northeastern tip of 10m and 40m deep that make for in Puerto Princesa. Step into a chic Palawan is the Calamian some fascinating diving. hotel and you will find the iconic A group of islands, whose As in El Nido, you can opt to do WHERE TO STAY accessories and baskets woven with major islands include Busuanga, any or all of the three island-hopping PALAWAN burnt black bamboo strips made Coron, Calauit and Culion. Coron tours. The most popular spot is Bacau Bay Resort by the women of the dwindling town is in Busuanga, about 30 Kayangan Lake, with its crystal-clear An 80-room resort with a private Batak tribe, who have been able to minutes from the airport and where waters and viewpoint of Coron’s pier from where you will launch your island-hopping and diving sustain their culture and traditions most visitors will base themselves; most iconic lagoon scene. This is adventures. Governor’s Dr, Sitio , this way. Additionally, Rurungan is where the most a magical place for swimming and Poblacion 5; bacaubayresortcoron.com sa Tubod, a non-profit that seeks popular sites are found, such as snorkeling, and even freediving to empower Palawan women, is an 7 Rurungan sa Tubod, Kayangan Lake, Twin Lagoons and with its incredible underwater rock Paradise alternative livelihood foundation a non-profit that works with Barracuda Lake. Off the island are a formations. However, after two Located in a 21ha protected forest some miles from downtown, this that teaches women piña fabric- women in Palawan 8 Ditchay dozen Japanese shipwrecks between tourists died while freediving in Roxas of La Terrasse Café property is ideal for families and weaving technology while creating groups who want to retreat into a community of weavers. At its nature. Km 12 Coron-Busuanga showroom just off the National Highway; busuangaislandparadise.com Highway, you can observe them Urbanized yet green, expansive to sustainable practices — she’s working on looms while their yet densely populated, and full of lived in a rustic wood cottage on the children mill around, and also great seafood restaurants — Puerto island of Boayan for two decades, peruse the special items they Princesa is Palawan’s center of pioneering efforts to restore and produce, from modern Filipiniana commerce that’s underrated as a preserve the surrounding precious blouses to colorful resort wear tourist destination. Ditchay Roxas, ecosystem and reef environment. woven in light cotton blends. a longtime Palawan resident, has New projects here leading the made the city her home for the charge in green tourism are on the past 11 years, and runs the beloved rise — up in the hilly, verdant area restaurant La Terrasse Café along past Mitra’s Ranch hides a soon-to- busy Rizal Avenue. The kitchen uses open event space called Butanding ingredients sourced locally from Bar. Conceptualized by artist Alexis organic farms or tribes to make Oshima, the bar is noteworthy for WHERE TO EAT wonderful bites of food — don’t miss its experimental use of bamboo. her unforgettable nougat made with With simple yet beautiful forest huts La Terrasse Café This sophisticated restaurant is Palawan honey and cashews. Ditchay, constructed by legendary Palawan a long-running Puerto Princesa having seen the bad and good of paraw-builder Gener Paduga, this favorite, and it’s easy to see why: tourism development, is committed space will showcase how bamboo The classy menu serves Palawan’s architecture should be used in a best ingredients and dishes, with a French inflection.359 Rizal Ave country regularly beset by typhoons. Ext; +63 908 691 7917 8 Climate-resilient and cheap to build, bamboo structures are the Ameng Balay future of Philippine architecture, and This cozy and rustic art café not visionaries like Alexis and Gener are only offers astonishingly good breakfasts, rice bowls and pastries, paving the way forward. Set against but also a small but tasteful the sprawling bamboo ceiling of collection of beautiful objects from Butanding Bar are large lamps in around the world. Manalo Ext, Brgy the shape of mantas, jellyfish and Bancao-Bancao; +63 917 104 7723 a life-size whale shark, created by Badjao Seafront Baguio artist and former Purple Yam Surrounded by , this chef Perry Mamaril. He also built restaurant on stilts at the end of a traditional Cordillera stone grill a boardwalk serves great Filipino where food is to be cooked and meats, seafood dishes. Dine alfresco with a view of Honda Bay. Abueg Rd; smoked — a definite talking point for +63 48 433 9912 parties held here.

68 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020 2nd Quarter 2020 Smile 69 the lake in 2017, visitors are now required to wear lifejackets when Previous page Kayangan swimming in all the lakes. Lake, on Coron Island Certified divers who are also 9 The pier off Coron Town on Busuanga Island history buffs will waste no time getting to the shipwrecks of . These supply ships were laid to waste by an American squadron of dive bombers during a sustained air attack on the Imperial Japanese Navy on September 24, 1944. The

MANILA exterior of the wrecks are encrusted with corals and teeming with marine life, while penetration dives deep PALAWAN into the boats will reward you with machinery and other artefacts. A magical island of a thousand adventures. One wreck, the Lusong gunboat, is shallow enough for snorkelers to Fall under its spell explore, with one end of the boat and discover the escape of a lifetime at breaking the surface at low tide. Wrecks are not the only diveable sites. Barracuda Lake, inside a former crater, has unusual rock formations and a thermocline — you just have to trek to the area for 30 minutes with all your gear on. For more traditional diving, Coral Garden has some of the best visibility in a marine protected area, 9 while Siete Pecados will bring you encounters with huge schools of Rising on the main highway, just a few minutes away from the tropical fish. the arena of competitive SUP — on Want to see Coron in a way that’s her free days, she uses the board to Francisco B. Reyes Airport and very close to the heart of Coron town light on the environment? SUP paddle out and buy seafood from the is TAG Resort – the newest destination resort in Palawan. Central, a newly launched tour group local fishermen. on the island, offers guided stand-up Palawan is often branded as a WHERE TO EAT With 112 well-appointed rooms and casitas, a lagoon pool, a poolside lounge, paddleboard (SUP) tours for all resort wonderland, but it’s important a sprawling commercial strip, an iconic Tree of Light, a convention center, and a main ballroom levels of paddlers. Taking off from for visitors to realize that the Pedro’s Gelato Bacau Bay Resort, just 10 minutes province is also the home of Summer, in the Philippines, is not a that can accommodate up to 500 guests, TAG Resort Coron is the perfect backdrop for the from Coron town proper, several indigenous groups. season but a state of mind. Which ultimate getaway, business convention or life-changing event. paddlers are led through the One such tribe, the Tagbanua, makes any day a great day for verdant mangrove forests that has lived on these islands for home-made gelato. Busuanga Rd, Coron Town; +63 917 523 4356 Book now at amazing introductory rates and discover Coron’s alluring mystique. surround the shoreline. SUP thousands of years. Though Central co-founder Michi the group has ancestral domain Om’s Thai Restaurant Calica Sotto considers this over Coron, mass tourism has This vegan-friendly kitchen island her second home, led to its marginalization over headed by a Thai chef serves a variety of Thai and Vietnamese after retiring from a 30- the years. Many of the sites here dishes in big servings and at fair year career in fashion are sacred to the ethnic group and prices. In the evenings, head to the in Manila. In Coron, aren’t accessible to the public, but second floor for some live music. she is a certified the pressure is on for them to open Bancuang, Coron Town Proper; SUP instructor up more areas to tourism. A few +63 906 372 4001 and a rising tours do offer interaction with the star in Tagbanua people by taking visitors to see where they live and to experience Cebu Pacific flies to Puerto their culture, music and even enjoy Princesa from Manila, their special coffee. This way, the Clark, Iloilo and Cebu; and to Busuanga (Coron) from Tagbanua get to participate in the Manila, Clark and Cebu. tourism boom, while telling their cebupacificair.com own stories.

70 Smile 2nd Quarter 2020 National Highway, Sitio Dipulao, Brgy. Pob. 6 Coron, Palawan 5516, Philippines Globe +63 917 3233 824 (TAG) | Smart +63 919 0712 824 (TAG) [email protected] | [email protected] | www.tagresorts.com.ph