©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Philippines

North p119

Manila #_ Around p101 p52 Southeast Luzon p198 p171 & & Eastern Western Visayas p283 p383 p217

Mindanao p348

Paul Harding, Greg Bloom, Celeste Brash, Grosberg, Iain Stewart PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome MANILA...... 52 Subic Bay & . . . 115 to the ...... 6 Mt Pinatubo Region . . . . 117 The Philippines Map. . . . 8 AROUND MANILA. . . . 101 The Philippines’ Top 15. . 10 NORTH LUZON. . . . . 119 Need to Know...... 18 Corregidor...... 103 Coast. . . . . 122 First Time Philippines. . . 20 South of Manila . . . . . 103 & Lake Taal. . . . 103 Southern What’s New...... 22 Zambales Coast...... 122 Taal...... 107 If You Like ...... 23 Iba & Botolan...... 123 ...... 108 Month by Month. . . . . 25 North of Iba...... 124 ...... 109 Itineraries ...... 28 Gulf...... 124 Mt Banahaw ...... 110 Diving in the Bolinao & Patar Beach. . . . 124 Pagsanjan...... 110 Philippines ...... 33 Hundred Islands Outdoor Activities. . . . 39 Lucban...... 111 National Park ...... 124 Eat & Drink ...... 112 San Juan (). . . . 125 Like a Local...... 44 North of Manila. . . . . 112 Ilocos...... 127 Regions at a Glance. . . . 49 Angeles & Clark Airport. . . 113 ...... 127 ALENAOZEROVA/SHUTTERSTOCK © SHANTIHESSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

EL NIDO P401 TOM COCKREM/GETTY IMAGES ©

STREET FOOD, P385 Contents

Laoag...... 132 San Jose ...... 164 Mt Isarog Pagudpud & Around . . . . 134 Northern Sierra Madre National Park ...... 177 The Cordillera...... 135 Natural Park...... 164 Caramoan Peninsula. . . . 177 ...... 137 ...... 165 ...... 180 Kabayan...... 144 Santa Ana ...... 166 Legazpi...... 180 Mt Pulag National Park. . . 146 Islands . . . . . 166 Around Legazpi...... 184 Sagada & Around. . . . . 146 Batan Island...... 166 ...... 185 Bontoc...... 151 Sabtang Island...... 169 Bulusan Volcano National Park & Around. . .. 186 Around Bontoc...... 152 Itbayat Island...... 170 Donsol ...... 186 Province...... 153 Pilar ...... 188 Banaue...... 155 SOUTHEAST ...... 188 Around Banaue...... 158 LUZON...... 171 Virac...... 190 Kiangan...... 160 Bicol...... 174 Puraran ...... 190 Northeast Luzon . . . . . 161 & Bagasbas. . . . . 174 Around Catanduanes. . . 191 Baler...... 161 Naga...... 175 ...... 191 Masbate Town...... 191 Around . . . . 193 ...... 194 ...... 194 Boac...... 195 Gasan & the West Coast. . . . . 197 East Coast...... 197

MINDORO ...... 198 ...... 200 ...... 210 Roxas & Around...... 211 Bulalacao...... 212 San José ...... 212 Mt Iglit-Baco National Park ...... 214 Sablayan ...... 215

BORACAY & ...... 217 Boracay ...... 218 ...... 233 ...... 233 Roxas ...... 236 BATAD P158 Province...... 238 ON THE ROAD

Iloilo...... 240 ...... 270 Island. . . . . 301 ...... 247 ...... 272 ...... 304 Negros...... 250 San Juan & Around. . . . 272 Toledo...... 306 ...... 250 Lazi & Around...... 274 ...... 306 Mt Cantabon...... 275 Lilo-an & Natural Park...... 256 Province . . . . 275 Sumilon Island...... 311 ...... 256 ...... 276 ...... 311 Sagay...... 259 Romblon Island ...... 279 Pacijan Island...... 312 San Carlos...... 259 ...... 280 ...... 313 Sugar Beach...... 260 Ponson Island...... 314 Punta Ballo...... 261 ...... 314 ...... 261 CEBU & EASTERN ...... 314 VISAYAS...... 283 ...... 262 ...... 318 ...... 264 Cebu...... 285 Balicasag Island...... 322 Valencia & Around. . . . . 269 ...... 285 Island...... 322 Bais City & Around ...... 270 Around Cebu City...... 298 ...... 323 DMITRYPICHUGIN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Contents

UNDERSTAND

Chocolate Hills Loop. . . . 323 Island...... 340 The Philippines Anda...... 326 ...... 340 Today ...... 422 Ubay...... 327 Catarman...... 341 History...... 424 ...... 327 Biri Island ...... 342 People & Culture . . . . 432 ...... 327 Allen...... 343 Environment...... 438 ...... 329 Dalupiri Island...... 343 ...... 333 ...... 344 ...... 334 ...... 344 SURVIVAL Padre Burgos ...... 335 ...... 345 GUIDE ...... 337 ...... 346 Island...... 338 Calicoan Island...... 347 Directory A–Z...... 444 Naval ...... 339 Transport...... 451 North of Naval ...... 339 . . . . . 348 Health...... 456 East & South of Naval. . . . 340 . . . 352 Higatangan Island . . . . . 340 de Oro...... 352 Language...... 461 ...... 356 Index...... 469 Surigao...... 362 Map Legend...... 478 ...... 365 Southern Mindanao. . . 370 Davao...... 371 ...... 377 Lake Sebu...... 378 Mt Apo...... 379 Samal Island...... 380 Talikud Island...... 380 Western Mindanao & ...... 381 ...... 382

PALAWAN ...... 383 Puerto Princesa...... 385 SPECIAL Sabang & the FEATURES Underground River ...... 392 Southern Palawan. . . . . 394 Diving in the Philippines...... 33 Port Barton...... 395 Outdoor Activities. . . . 39 San Vicente...... 400 Taytay...... 400 Eat & Drink Like a Local ...... 44 El Nido...... 401 Busuanga & People & Culture. . . . 432 CADLAO ISLAND P409 the . . . . 411 Environment...... 438 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28

Itineraries

•# Batad

Banaue •#

É É

P H I L I P P I N E

É

É S E A

›#

S O U T H #_ MANILA

C H I N A

S E A É #

– –# É

Busuanga •#

•# Coron •#Boracay É Island f# #– É El Nido •#

2 WEEKS Greatest Hits

Fly into Manila, worth a one-day stopover to tour historic and its nearby museums. On day two fly to Busuanga in Palawan’s Calamian Islands. Visit majestic , dive the WWII wrecks, do a kayak tour and camp overnight on an idyllic off- shore island such as Calumbuyan, Pass or North Cay. Next, take a ferry to Palawan’s other crown jewel, El Nido, home to some of the world’s prettiest beaches and jumping-off point for island-hopping trips in the spectacu- lar Bacuit Archipelago. Enjoy El Nido’s burgeoning drinking and dining scene, then hit Boracay, where the party never stops. Fly back to Manila and take an overnight bus to Banaue, jumping-off point for the rice terraces of . Enjoy the Zen-like peace and quiet of Batad for a day before tak- ing a bus back to Manila to catch your flight home. 29

Mt Pinatubo R (1450m) #_MANILA

S O U T H Tagaytay •# É Bicol

C H I N A TRIP YOUR PLAN S E A Mt Mayon R (2462m) Donsol •# É P H I L I P P I N E S E A É Samar •#Catbalogan

•# Tacloban Leyte •#Red Beach It i nerar

•# Cebu City É Chocolate Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary •#Hills •#Siargao Island ÷# Bohol

Panglao Island •# i es Camiguin•#

É Island É S U LU •# S E A Mindanao

1 MONTH North–South Traverse

Spend your first three days in Manila getting acclimatised, reserving one day for a jour- ney outside Manila – climbing moonlike Mt Pinatubo, whose eruption shook the world in 1991, would be our first choice. Scenic Tagaytay, which has some of the best restau- rants in the country, is a mellower option. Next, head to the in Southeast Luzon. It’s an adventure hub with surfing, wakeboarding and volcanoes on offer. Around Legazpi you can with whale sharks off Donsol or ride an ATV around the base of impressive Mt Mayon (if it’s not erupting). Proceeding south, cross the San Bernardino Strait to the rugged islands of Samar and Leyte in the . Along the way, have the spelunking adventure of a lifetime in Catbalogan. Stop off in Tacloban, Imelda Marcos’ home town. It was devastated by (known locally as Typhoon Yolanda) but has reinvented itself as a hip provincial centre. Head to nearby Red Beach for a dose of WWII history. Then take a ferry to the Visayas’ gritty capital, Cebu City, for modern comforts and nightlife. You’ll be approaching week three of your trip by now, and possibly ready for some serious beach time. Take the fast ferry to Tagbilaran, the capital of Bohol and gateway to the beach resorts of Panglao Island. From Panglao you are well positioned to enjoy all Bohol has to offer: go diving, snorkelling and dolphin-spotting offshore, then head inland to stand-up paddle the River, view the , kayak with fireflies on the and spot palm-sized primates at the Philippine Tarsier Sanctuary. Next, move north from Panglao and catch a classic back-door ferry: 3½ hours from , Bohol, to Camiguin Island. Camiguin can keep both adventurous travellers and beach bums satisfied for days. Spend at least several here, then make the short hop over to mainland Mindanao by ferry. For your last few days, choose between Cagayan de Oro, a buzzy university town with white-water rafting, and Siargao, the Philippines’ top surf spot as well as an idyllic island with lagoons and galore. SEAN HSU / SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Top: (p411), Palawan Bottom: A in (p155) Banaue

SVETLANA BYKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 30 31

•# Boracay

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É

Antique Malapascua •# Bantayan •# Province Panay •# Island Island f# City

•# É É Silay •# f# É •# •# Bacolod

Guimaras Cebu •# It É Cebu City i nerar

É

•# Moalboal Sugar Beach •# É

Negros i es É Dumaguete •# f# •# Siquijor

4 WEEKS Voyage to the Visayas

Beach-lovers and dive buffs need look no further than this central group of idyllic islands. Kick things off in Cebu City, soaking up some history during the day before party- ing it up at night. Then it’s time to hit the islands: divers will want to head straight to Malapascua Island, where you’ll have a good chance of encountering thresher sharks; while sun worshippers should check in on laid-back Bantayan Island. Double back to Cebu City and continue south to adventure mecca Moalboal, where waterfalls abound and you can go with schooling sardines. Continue to Cebu’s southern tip and cross the narrow Tañon Strait to Negros and Dumaguete, which is all about promenading on the scenic , great seafood, rowdy nightlife and superb diving at Apo Island. Next, take a detour to the mellow island of Siquijor, just 1¼ hours away by ferry. Spend a day or three here and be sure to visit one of its famed folk healers. Retreat to Dumaguete and take the long bus ride around the southern horn of Negros to delightfully laid-back Sugar Beach on the west coast. It’s a divine sweep of fine golden sand in range of quality diving and kayaking. From here another long bus journey north takes you to Bacolod, where you can revel in great food and bar- hopping, and take a side trip to Silay for a fascinating journey through and sugar-cane plantations. From Bacolod it’s an easy fast-ferry trip over to on the island of Panay. Check out the colonial architecture of the Jaro District and have a night out in Small- ville. A short boat ride away is Guimaras, a gem of an island with low-key resorts, mountain-biking and famous mangoes. Return to Iloilo and meander north via Antique Province, where hidden beaches await, before alighting on Boracay to whoop it up on White Beach. 32

S O U T H Busuanga C H I N A S E A S O U T H Island C H I N A •# S E A É •#Coron f# Calamian Island PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Islands Maligcong •#Tinglayan É •# •# Linapacan Sagada •# Bontoc Island É •#Banaue & Batad Bacuit Archipelago •# •# El Nido Kabayan •# É R É

É Mt Pulag •#Taytay Baguio •# It (2922m)

i nerar Port Barton É •# É •# Baler

i es É LUZON Sabang •# É

É

•# Puerto Princesa PALAWAN MANILA #_

Water world: 3 North Luzon 2 WEEKS WEEKS Palawan

Not a beach person? The mountains of the The Philippines’ star attraction lends itself Philippines’ main island delight with rice to easy south–north exploration. terraces, trekking and hill tribes. Spend an evening in Puerto Princesa Head north from Manila to Baguio. checking out the city’s culinary scene and Visit some of the city’s fascinating ethno- a day exploring the surrounding country­ graphic museums. side. From Puerto, organise a ride to Sabang, a laid-back beachfront village From Baguio, take a bus to Kabayan, and the base for trips through the famous centre of Ibaloi culture and base for hikes Underground River. in Mt Pulag National Park. Next, Sagada beckons. This tranquil backpacker village From Sabang, hightail it further north is tough to leave. to Port Barton, a beautiful and relaxing retreat with chilled-out beach bars. Head- Take a jeepney to Bontoc and explore ing north again, reserve at least a day for the amphitheatre-like rice terraces of undiscovered Taytay before rejoining the Maligcong on a day trip. Continue north tourist masses in El Nido, sandwiched to Tinglayan, a base for treks into indig- between limestone cliffs and the fantasti- enous Kalinga villages where the contem- cally picturesque . porary world feels far away. Bacuit Archipelago From El Nido, take a boat to Head back to Bontoc, then continue to Busu- anga Island. If you have time, the trip to Banaue and Batad, site of Luzon’s most Busuanga can be done as a five-day island- famous rice terraces. Stunning hikes will hopping expedition through the heavenly keep you busy for days. Try to spend at Linapacan and Calamian archipelagos. least a night or two in a homestay. From Busuanga, venture out to the strik- With a little R&R in mind, catch a bus ing lakes of Coron Island and some of the south to San Jose (you might have to over- best in the world. Flights and night here) to connect to another bus to ferries are available to usher you back to the surfing town of Baler. Manila and reality. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 478

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/ Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Border crossing Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Michael Grosberg Boracay & Western Visayas, Mindanao, Michael has worked on more than 45 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Whether covering Myanmar or New Jersey, each project has added to his rich and complicated psyche and taken years from his (still?) relatively young life. Prior to his freelance writing career, other interna- tional work included development on the island of Rota in the western Pacific; time in South Africa where he investigated and wrote about political violence and helped train newly elected government representatives; and a stint teaching in , Ecuador. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature and taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor at several New York City area colleges. Michael also reserached the Understand the Philippines section.

Iain Stewart Cebu & Eastern Visayas Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned more than 60 books for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mex- ico, Indonesia, Central America, , Vietnam and Bali & Lombok. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and tweets at @iaintravel. He’ll consider working anywhere there’s a palm tree or two and a beach of a generally sandy persuasion. Iain lives in Brighton (UK) within firing range of the city’s wonderful south-facing horizon. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide,Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Paul Harding Curator, Around Manila, Southeast Luzon As a writer and photographer, Paul has been travelling the globe for the best part of two decades, with an interest in remote and offbeat places, islands and cultures. He’s an author and contributor to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides to countries and regions as diverse as India, Iceland, Belize, Vanuatu, Iran, Indonesia, New Zealand, Finland, Philippines and – his home patch – Australia.

Greg Bloom Manila, Mindoro, Palawan Greg is a freelance writer, tour operator and travel planner based out of Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Manila, Philippines. Greg began his writing career in the late ’90s in Ukraine, working as a journalist and later editor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly. As a freelance travel writer, he has contributed to some 35 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. In addition to writing, he now organises adventure trips in Cam- bodia and Palawan (Philippines) through his tour company, Bearcat Travel. Greg also researched the Plan Your Trip section and the Survival Guide section.

Celeste Brash North Luzon Like many California natives, Celeste now lives in Portland, Oregon. She arrived, however, after 15 years in French Polynesia, a year and a half in and a stint teaching English as a second language (in an Amer- ican accent) in Brighton, England ­– among other things. She’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet since 2005 and her travel articles have appeared in publications from BBC Travel to National Geographic. She’s currently writing a book about her five years on a remote pearl farm in the Tuamotu Atolls and is represented by the Donald Maass Agency, New York.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 13th edition – Jun 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 470 1 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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