In a city of countless attractions, is one of the most colourful neighbourhoods

The tango was born here – and is still alive and kicking

YOUR FIRST TIME? If you’re new to the capital of tango, you’ll need a plan to navigate its bustling streets. Here’s where to get started…

09:00 Take it all in with dedications to the great and the Begin your visit downtown, walking west good, including ’s legendary to east from Plaza del Congreso to Plaza former First Lady, Eva Perón. de Mayo along the wide boulevard of the . Often compared to 14:30 Love me tender Madrid’s bustling Gran Vía, this elegant With the average Argentine said to thoroughfare gives you an instant sense consume 120lb of beef each year, this World famous for its succulent steaks, Argentina of the city’s style and grandeur. is a country where the cooking of steak is is heaven for carnivores raised to an art form. For perfectly grilled 10:30 Let’s do brunch cuts and mouth-watering wines, take your Break your fast at Café Tortoni (Avenida lunch at La Cabrera in Palermo Soho. ophisticated and de Mayo 825), an elegant establishment It’s sure to be a mouth-watering treat. sultry, is beloved by fashionable Porteños – as the an oasis of splendours, people of Buenos Aires are known – since 16:00 Eye opener S tucked away at the 1858. You’ll be spoiled for choice, but copy Next on your list should be the magnificent foot of South America. Its the locals and order a deliciously light and MALBA, Argentina’s major museum of combination of faded European crispy medialuna (a sweet croissant), or a contemporary art, where you’ll find works grandeur and Latin American plate of alfajores, a typical brunch food by all the famous names of Latin American flair creates a real melting pot consisting of two moist cakes held art, including Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. of cultures and colours, of food, together by dulce de leche, a devilishly football, history and, above all, indulgent gooey filling. 20:00 Two to tango the irresistible rhythms of the Tuck into delicious cold platters and tango. Buzzing with seductive 12:00 Pay your respects cocktails at San Telmo’s Bar El Federal energy, this pulsating capital A graveyard may not seem the most – then surrender yourself to the rhythms very rarely sleeps. obvious destination on a day out, but of the night at La Academia Tango Club. BUENOS AIRES Whether you’re planning the Recoleta Cemetery – spread out across A city of elegant, European-style boulevards, impassioned to tuck into its world famous more than 13 acres in the neighbourhood THE BASICS grass-fed steaks, dance of the same name – is something rather • Café Tortoni cafetortoni.com.ar tango clinches, mouthwatering cuisine and raucous nightlife, all night on the streets, or special. Established in 1822, this city • La Cabrera restaurant lacabrera.com.ar immerse yourself in its fanatical of the dead features monuments, • MALBA .org.ar Argentina’s colourful capital is a seductive treat for all the football scene, Buenos Aires mausoleums and ‘streets’ of more • La Academia Tango Club senses, writes Amelia Glean is sure to get under your skin. than 6,400 tombs, all elaborately carved laacademiatangoclub.com

106 WORLD OF CRUISING | JULY / AUGUST 2019 | worldofcruising.co.uk worldofcruising.co.uk | JULY / AUGUST 2019 | WORLD OF CRUISING 107 1 day 3 ways

This is a city of bookshops – none more splendid than El Ateneo, a former theatre

BA’s street artists have raised graffiti to a whole new level...

BEEN THERE? GO HERE! Ticked off all the must-sees? Now it’s time to experience the next layer of this glamorous city...

08:00 Step aside, Banksy 15:00 Escape the crowds Sprawled across several neighbourhoods, Longing for a breath of fresh air? Take from bohemian San Telmo to hipster the train from Retiro station up the coast ...while football is practically a Palermo, the city’s spectacular graffiti to Tigre, a favourite weekend destination religion for Porteños of all ages scene simply cannot be missed. For an for locals. The town lies along several LIVE LIKE A LOCAL in-depth insight into this outpouring of interconnecting rivers and streams, creativity on every street corner, take studded with islands that can only be Think you’ve seen it all? You’re the official tour with Graffitimundo. reached by small passenger boats. ready to do as the Porteños do… Explore the delta and the popular Puerto 11:00 Retail therapy de Frutos, a large market well stocked Get on board 09:30 Culture vulture made empanadas and the most Vibrant San Telmo market You’ll have noticed the locals’ sense of with expertly made crafts, irresistible Viking 17-night ‘South America Immerse yourself in the city’s rich history tender vacío (flank steak) sandwiches has been feeding the city style, so shop like a Porteño in the city’s eats and bespoke furniture. & the Chilean Fjords’ cruise, from by wandering the crooked streets of San imaginable, while watching traditionally since 1897 trendiest neighbourhood. The epicentre Buenos Aires to Santiago via Telmo, where you’ll find charming, dressed couples dance the chamamé. of Argentine fashion is the Plazoleta 21:00 Put on your dancing shoes Montevideo, Puerto Madryn, centuries-old buildings at every turn. Julio Cortázar, but you’ll also want to End your day with a stroll just south of Falkland Islands, Cape Horn, 19:00 Game changer explore Calles de Armenia, Gorriti and throbbing San Telmo into the Barracas Ushuaia, Punta Arenas, Amalia 11:30 By the book Visiting BA without experiencing the Gurruchaga – packed with boutiques and district. Here you’ll find a whole host Glacier and Chilean fjords, Enjoy a good read? Among this literature- pulsating atmosphere of the Bombonera quirky shops – as well as the crossing of bars and cosy restaurants serving departing 29 November 2020, loving city’s 380 bookshops, the star is stadium – home of the legendary Boca streets of Honduras, El Salvador, Costa locally sourced produce, as well as the from £6,490, vikingcruises.co.uk , a palatial Juniors football club – is a little like Rica and Nicaragua (if your bank balance popular tango joint Chau Che Clú, just former theatre that retains its carved heading to Paris and eating only can stand the strain). a few steps up the road. Azamara 21-night ‘Argentina, balcony seats and red velvet curtains. McDonalds. So throw on some blue and Chile & Peru Voyage’, from yellow and take in a match alongside 14:00 Eat on the go THE BASICS Buenos Aires to Lima via 14:00 Selling point the most passionate fans in the world. Running low? Refuel at El Club de la • Graffitimundo street art tours Punta del Este, Montevideo, San Telmo market is a must for foodies, Milanesa, a cosy and authentic bolthole graffitimundo.com Ushuaia, Beagle Channel, but a little effort (and public transport THE BASICS that’s famed for its signature dish of • El Club de la Milanesa restaurant Punta Arenas, Chilean fjords, bravery) will bring you to the Feria de • El Ateneo atlasobscura.com/places/ breaded Angus beef or crispy chicken, elclubdelamilanesa.com Puerto Chacabuco, Puerto Mataderos. A cross between a country el-ateneo-grand-splendid sandwiched between thick slices of bread, • Tango at Chau Che Clú Montt, Valparaíso, La Serena, fair and a farmers’ market, this Sunday • Feria de Mataderos turismo.buenosaires. complete with all the trimmings. facebook.com/chaucheclu Iquique and Pisco, departing institution gives the impression of gob.ar/en/atractivo/feria-de-mataderos 2 March 2020, from £3,792, travelling to another province and • stadium bocajuniors.com. azamaraclubcruises.co.uk another era. Here you’ll feast on freshly ar/el-club/la-bombonera

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