NIKE JUMPS, APPAREL LAGS/4 A&G SEEKS MORE FUNDING/5 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • June 28 2005• $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Water Colors MILAN — Distinctive colors and patterns give cruise looks a certain breeziness, and Christian Lacroix takes advantage of that fact in his collection for Pucci this season. “An exotic feel contrasts with floral and graphic patterns that convey a three- dimensional sensation,” he says. Here, a blouse and skirt in silk chiffon in one of the subtler patterns, in Lacroix’s favored washed pastels. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Textile Industry Divided As Congress Nears Vote In Showdown Over CAFTA By Kristi Ellis GREENSBORO, N.C. — The U.S. textile industry is at a crossroads that is starkly reflected in the dwindling number of mill towns in the hills of the Carolinas. The once-thriving center of commerce for much of the South is at the core of a polarizing confrontation over the Central AGENCY American Free Trade Agreement. As the debate intensifies and the Bush administration awaits Congressional action on the trade bill, experts say it

Y RITA FIORENTINO/COPPOLA Y RITA appears to have a good chance of passing in the Senate, although it must overcome opposition from members in sugar- See CAFTA, Page10 TERINA/WOMEN; HAIR AND MAKEUP B PHOTO BY KHEPRI STUDIO; MODEL: EKA PHOTO BY

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Australia, home of the world’s finest calling for an immediate end to mulesing has spent millions of dollars on animal Merino wool and the world’s largest and for people to stop buying Australian welfare research including the search for Merino sheep flock is also, unfortunately, Merino wool until this practice is ceased. an effective alternative to mulesing. home to a particularly aggressive species This no doubt well-meaning but, in There are promising new technologies in of fly, Lucilia cuprina. Beautiful name, our opinion, misguided demand would development and the objective is to have but ugly reputation. have exactly the opposite effect to that a viable alternative fully operational as These blowflies specifically target presumably intended. It is estimated that soon as possible. Merino sheep and, without going into without mulesing up to three million Australian Merino wool is a natural, gory detail, can very easily lead to the Australian sheep would die a slow and renewable fiber produced in one of the sheep becoming infested and eventually agonizing death each year depending on cleanest agricultural environments in dying a painful death. the weather conditions. the world. Its amazing qualities of To prevent these deaths, Australian Furthermore if any call to stop buying comfort, drape, feel and style make it farmers remove a strip of skin from the Australian Merino wool proved effective universally desirable. So let’s hope that rear end of the lambs, preventing wool this could lead to grave problems for the common sense prevails so we can all from growing and becoming soiled Australian wool industry (which provides get back to enjoying high quality fashion and damp in the flies’ favorite target 65% of the world’s fine Merino wool). and other products made from the area. This practice is called ‘mulesing’ Australian woolgrowers pride world’s finest natural fiber. Make that (pronounced mule-zing) after the inventor themselves on having animal welfare the world’s finest fiber, period. of the procedure J.H.Mules. and fiber production practices which are Brought to you by The Australian Recently an animal rights group equal to any in the world. Over several Wool Industry. For further details please targeted the Australian wool industry, decades the Australian wool industry go to www.woolisbest.com 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM Nike Net Up, Shares Down By Melanie Kletter tributed to the decline in the WWDTUESDAY share price on Monday. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — Nike Inc. contin- Shanley said Nike “needs to ued to sprint in the fourth quar- do a better job with the styling of FASHION ter with a 15 percent rise in prof- some its apparel.” Brands like Cruisewear bursts with color at Pucci, lightens up at Ungaro and sparkles its, but its apparel sales lost Under Armour are being em- 6 at Matthew Williamson. some zip in the U.S. and Europe. braced as fashion labels, and re- The lag in activewear sales, a tailers are also pumping up more cautious outlook for the their own private label offerings, GENERAL first quarter of the current year which may be hurting Nike’s ap- TEXTILE REPORT: The fate of the Central American Free Trade Agreement and concern about business in parel sales, he said. Reebok has 1 hinges on Congress members from North and South Carolina. Japan and some European re- had similar problems with its Nike Inc. delivered another robust quarter Monday, with profits rising 15 gions caused the athletic giant’s branded merchandise. 4 percent on a 6.7 percent sales gain. shares to slide $3.58 Monday to Shanley was optimistic about close at $85.77 on the New York prospects for the U.S. “We ex- A&G Group, parent of Asprey and Garrard, has hired Citigroup to find Stock Exchange. pect that heightened consumer 5 investors for its global rollout program. Nike expects high-single-digit demand for technical/perform- EYE: All the ladies are embracing tunics and white pants for nights on the sales growth in 2006, but first- ance footwear, particularly the 8 town…French designer Agnès Trouble’s new passion. quarter revenues will be at the Nike’s women’s business has been brand’s higher-priced, limited- READY-TO-WEAR: Oleg Cassini will design Kim Basinger’s costumes for low end of the 7 to 9 percent pro- performing well. Here, a running look. availability products, will con- her role as first lady in the upcoming film, “The Sentinel.” jected growth range, Donald Blair, tinue to help drive Nike’s sales 12 Nike’s chief financial officer, said and the quality of our manage- growth momentum in the U.S.,” A|X Armani Exchange plans to expand its 94-unit retail operation, on a call with analysts Monday. ment team contributed to anoth- he wrote in a report Monday. 20 concentrating on the Sunbelt. Nike’s fourth-quarter profits er year of consistent, profitable By region, in the U.S., rev- Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 climbed to $349.5 million, or growth for our shareholders,” enues for the year were $5.13 bil- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is $1.30 a share, from $305 million, said William D. Perez, Nike’s new lion, and apparel sales edged up 2 [email protected], using the individual’s name. or $1.13, and exceeded analysts’ president and chief executive of- percent to $1.46 billion from $1.43 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 expectations of $1.27. Results ficer, in a statement Monday. billion. Blair noted that high-sin- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. were aided by higher gross mar- “The Nike brand is exceptionally gle-digit growth in branded ap- VOLUME 189, NO. 135. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional gins and strong sales in Asia and strong, driving full-year revenue parel offset declines in licensed issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL South America, as well as robust gains across all regions and prod- apparel due to the expiration of OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill global footwear sales. Gross mar- uct lines, while Converse and Nike’s NBA license. Sales at the Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, gins were 45.2 percent of rev- Cole Haan led the growth in our company’s subsidiaries rose 22 Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- enues in the quarter, up from President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at portfolio of other businesses.” percent to $1.7 billion for the year. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration 43.8 percent last year helped by Perez, who took the Nike helm Sales in Asia continued to out- No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, tight cost controls. in late December, did not partici- pace the U.S., especially in China, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Nike’s total revenues rose 6.7 pate in a conference call with an- where business nearly doubled DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is percent to $3.72 billion from $3.49 alysts on Monday, but is sched- for the year, Blair said. Some ana- required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production billion in the quarter. While the uled to meet with investors today lysts have said the company correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, company saw strength in nearly in New York along with a number needs to look internationally to please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully every product sector and region of other company executives. grow the Nike brand since it is al- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive in the fourth quarter, apparel was Blair said during the call that ready mature in the U.S. Rev- these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED a slight disappointment in the Nike is seeing growth on the enues in the U.S. grew 3 percent MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND U.S. and Europe. Apparel rev- women’s side of the business, al- to $1.33 billion for the quarter, TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED enues slipped 7 percent in the though he declined to give and were up 19 percent to $535 TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE U.S to $335.9 million, and were specifics, and he also noted million in the Asia Pacific region. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. down 4 percent in Europe, the comp-store sales at NikeTown EMEA revenues grew 4 percent Middle East and Africa, or stores were up 11 percent in the to $1.1 billion in the quarter, EMEA, to $366.1 million. quarter. He attributed the fall in while in the Americas region, For the year, profits surged U.S. apparel sales in the fourth which includes South America, In Brief 28.1 percent to $1.21 billion, or quarter to “changes in the tim- revenues were up 20 percent to $4.48, from $945.6 million, or ing of shipments, the decline in $201.1 million. ● HOCHMAN NAMED: The American Apparel & Footwear $3.51. Revenues grew 12 percent sales of licensed apparel and Japan “remains challenging,” Association has named Carol Hochman, president of Danskin to $13.74 billion, from $12.25 bil- lower at-once orders.” and overall constant dollar rev- Inc., secretary of its board. She fills the vacancy caused by the lion, and were up in all regions John Shanley, an analyst with enues there fell slightly in the resignation of Terry Lay, former chairman of VF Corp.’s global and product categories. Susquehanna Financial Group, fourth quarter, Blair said. jeanswear coalition. George Derhofer, senior vice president of “The strength of the Nike said the company’s performance Sales at Nike subsidiaries global operations at VF, and Bruce Munro, president of Munro brand around the world, the in Japan and some concern over group, including Cole Haan, Exe- Co. Inc.’s branded division, were appointed to the trade associa- breadth of our Nike Inc. portfolio the European business con- ter Brands Group LLC, Hurley, tion’s 60-member board. Munro also serves on the AAFA execu- Nike Golf, Converse and Bauer tive committee and will finish the term of his father, Don Munro, Nike Hockey, grew 6 percent to who resigned from the board. $529.2 million in the quarter. Nike has continued to aggressive- ● BLUEFLY’S CAPITAL: Online designer goods retailer Bluefly ly build up this segment of its Inc. said Monday that it raised more than $7 million from a pri- business and Nike executives vate equity placement arranged by HPC Capital Management have said often that the company LLC and led by private equity firm Palisades Master Fund. The wants to continue to acquire new transaction to buy a portion of the new securities included eight brands and expand into new other private equity firms. Among them are two that are affiliat- product segments and distribu- ed with Soros Fund Management LLC, which will hold a 65 per- tion channels. To that end, the cent majority share of Bluefly once the deal is completed. The company last August acquired new investors also paid $3 million to the Soros funds for their Official Starter Properties, owner Series D preferred stock. The proceeds of the deal will be used of the Starter brand, as a way to “to focus firmly on customer acquisition,” Melissa Payner-Gregor, extend its business into the mass Bluefly chief executive officer and president, said in a statement. channel including Wal-Mart. Nike has renamed this business ● ROWLEY’S HAMPTONS DIGS: Cynthia Rowley has opened a Exeter Brands Group LLC. temporary boutique in Southampton, N.Y. Located at 283 County Nike’s footwear sales were Road 39-A in the Capri hotel, it will be open Thursdays through driven by performance prod- Sundays until the end of September. The 500-square-foot bou- ucts, which have a higher sell- tique will offer Rowley’s women’s ready-to-wear and acces- ing price, Blair noted. sories. The designer also has stores in Manhattan; East Looking ahead, Nike reported Hampton, N.Y.; Los Angeles; Chicago, and Japan. that worldwide future orders for athletic footwear and apparel ● ROSENGARD’S NEW ROLE: Paul F. Rosengard will join Miami- scheduled for delivery from June based Perry Ellis International Inc. as group president of the through November 2005 totaled company’s premium brands. He had been executive vice presi- $6.3 billion, a 9.5 percent in- dent of Randa Corp., the New York-based neckwear firm. crease over the same period last Rosengard, who begins Aug. 1, will be based in the company’s year. Blair said on the call that New York office and will oversee the overall direction of the the company expects selling, gen- men’s Perry Ellis, Tricots St. Raphael, Mondo di Marco and Axis eral and administrative costs to brands. He will report to Oscar Feldenkreis, vice chairman, pres- be lower as a percentage of rev- ident and chief operating officer of Perry Ellis International. enue in fiscal 2006. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 5 WWD.COM A&G Names Citigroup to Seek Investors Gucci Group Closes By Samantha Conti LONDON — A&G Group, parent of luxury brands Asprey and Yves Saint Laurent Garrard, has hired Citigroup to help find investors for its interna- tional rollout program. The plan foresees the opening of 15 new units — a mix of Store in Manhasset Asprey and Garrard stores — around the world this year. As reported in April, A&G said it would use the proceeds from the NEW YORK — Gucci Group is scaling back the sale of its Bond Street flagship — about $101 million — to fund the U.S. retail operations of its money-losing Yves expansion. However, that cash pile no longer appears sufficient. An Saint Laurent brand. A&G spokeswoman, who confirmed a report regarding Citibank’s ap- A 2,400-square-foot YSL store at the Am- pointment in London’s Mail on Sunday, added that A&G was growing ericana Manhasset in Manhasset, N.Y., was qui- more rapidly than expected, and needed the extra investment. etly shuttered just weeks ago. The boutique She declined to give further details. opened in 2003 as part of the Americana A&G took advantage of London’s soaring commercial property Manhasset’s expansion. It’s being replaced by market and sold Asprey’s Bond Street store to Quinlan Private, the an Oscar de la Renta shop. Irish property group. The current building has been handed back to There also is speculation Gucci Group may A&G Group on a long-term lease that will last for at least 25 years. be considering the closure of YSL’s stores on Although sales rose 59 percent to $51 million from $32 million Madison Avenue in New York and at the Bal in the fiscal year ended March 31, A&G remains a hungry beast in Harbour Shops in Bal Harbour, Fla. terms of capital, and the principals say brand-building takes time. However, a YSL spokeswoman said Monday, “This is an endurance race, not a sprint. Will we win the en- “We are absolutely not closing Madison Avenue or durance race? I don’t know. But we certainly haven’t entered the Bal Harbour. The Madison Avenue store has been sprint race,” Lawrence Stroll, the shareholder of reference, along in the company forever. It was the first store world- with Silas Chou, told WWD earlier this year. wide next to the one in Paris. It’s important to the Stroll added that he and his partners, who include Edgar company. Manhasset was an isolated decision.” Bronfman Jr., Morgan Stanley Capital and the Luxembourg-based An Americana Manhasset spokeswoman TAG Group, are “absolutely committed” to the A&G business in could not be reached for comment. the long run. YSL’s 12,800-square-foot flagship at 855 With regard to the retail expansion, 10 Asprey stores are set to Inside Madison Avenue was redesigned with great fan- open in 2005, along with five Garrard stores. Next month, Asprey Asprey’s fare in 2002 by the brand’s former creative direc- will roll out 50-ml. and 100-ml. bottles of its fragrance, Purple London tor, Tom Ford, who said at the time, “This is a great Water, and the brand also has begun to sell at travel retail on flagship. location; it has a lot of history for the brand.” British Airways. But retail executives wondered whether Manhattan could support two YSL stores in close proximity, as there is another unit at 3 East 57th Street. Two sources said Gucci Group is negotiating Greenberg Joins Financo’s M&A Lineup with Ralph Lauren about taking over YSL’s Madison Avenue space. A spokeswoman for Polo By David Moin Added Harrison: “There’s over $110 billion of private Ralph Lauren could not be reached at press time. equity money out there looking for deals. When you put Lauren is signing leases throughout the city. NEW YORK — Financo Inc. hired investment banker that together with the pockets that strategic buyers have, He inked a deal at 31 Prince Street for a Double Joyce I. Greenberg as a managing director to pump up its there is a huge need for investment.” RL store and has signed a lease for a third store activities in the mergers and acquisitions Aside from M&A, Financo specializes in on Bleecker Street, at number 390, formerly arena and in raising private capital. divestitures, restructuring and private Susan Parrish Antiques. In addition, Lauren Greenberg, who has more than 20 years placements, and has consulting and private has reportedly leased a spot on University of investment banking experience, will re- equity services. Place for his new Rugby concept. port to Financo chairman, chief executive Greenberg becomes Financo’s sixth When Gucci Group’s first-quarter results and founder Gilbert W. Harrison as well as managing director for M&A. She will focus were announced in April, sales at YSL dropped William S. Sussman, president and chief on the retail and consumer markets, includ- 3.6 percent to 39 million euros, or $51.2 million at operating officer. ing apparel, personal care and footwear. average exchange, marred by logistical problems “We have a ton of business going on,” Financo’s M&A team includes vice presi- and meager wholesale orders from retailers. Harrison said. “We are probably going to be dents, associates and analysts, a team of In May, at the company’s annual meeting, announcing several deals in the next week. more than 20 people. François-Henri Pinault, chairman of PPR, the It’s been a very good year so far.” Aside from her investment banking expe- parent of Gucci Group, was upbeat on luxury, Financo’s recent deals include the sale Joyce I. rience, Greenberg has operational experi- though he declined to set a breakeven date for of Gadzooks to Forever 21, a recapitalization Greenberg ence in the retail and merchandising sectors. YSL, which last year lost 69.3 million euros, or of Frédéric Fekkai and Regatta’s purchase She headed the retail practice groups at $87.6 million at current exchange. of Donnkenny. Other clients are Wet Seal, The Container Donaldson, Lufkin & Jenrette and Kidder, Peabody & Co. Meanwhile, the Gucci brand is scaling down Store and Crescent Jewelers, which is in bankruptcy. Inc., and has worked with Barnes & Noble, J. Crew, Kmart, its boutique at 846 Madison Avenue between 69th “The retail market is just like the rest of the country’s Best Buy and Burlington Industries, among other clients. and 70th Streets. A real estate broker involved in economy,” Greenberg said. “Scale is becoming increas- Most recently, she was founder and ceo of Takegoodcare the negotiations said Gucci is offering two small- ingly important. Between that and the low interest rates Holdings Inc., a former retailer of home health care prod- er portions of space but will maintain a presence. and huge abundance of funds, the market is heating up.” ucts and services that was in business from 1996 to 2003. — Sharon Edelson

SOFT LANDING: For a executives negotiated the $350 million sale to Meredith according to a spokeswoman for the magazine. Leitzes company with such a Corp. in secret, without betraying their intention to plans to stay on through mid-August in order to complete MEMO PAD messy history, Gruner + anyone — including G+J ceo Russell Denson. “One would work on the September fashion issue. Jahr USA Publishing assume they could’ve gotten more if they’d had some Leitzes is the fourth director in less than three months to has managed to pull off competitive bidding,” said Kliger. announce her resignation from Bazaar. Market director a surprisingly tidy denouement. Saturday’s Just how in-the-dark Bertelsmann kept Amanda Ross moved to Los Angeles with her announcement that Morningstar owner Joe Mansueto is Denson is clear from his last-minute hire of fiancé, beauty director Kerry Diamond went buying Fast Company and Inc. ensures that both Carolyn Bekkedahl to be group publisher. to Lancôme as head of public relations and magazines will continue to exist, at least in the near According to a G+J source, Denson was bookings director Preston Davis elected to term. That’s especially good news for the staff of Fast perplexed by the difficulty he encountered “pursue other opportunities.” There have Company, who feared a mass layoff after learning that all trying to get Bertelsmann to approve the also been a number of lower-level exits. A the other bidders reportedly planned to fold the title. hire. After much foot-dragging, corporate source who knows several of the departures Not everybody is pleased with the way the G+J saga brass finally signed off on her appointment said they felt worn down by the demands of turned out, though. The heads of several major in early May, days before reaching a deal editor in chief Glenda Bailey: “She’s publishing companies, including Hearst Magazines and with Meredith. In the end, Bekkedahl only constantly changing her mind and asking Hachette Filipacchi Media, are said to be put out at the had to go into work once. Not a bad way to people to do things in an impossibly short way the sale of G+J’s other titles — Family Circle, earn a severance check. — Jeff Bercovici amount of time.” But the Bazaar Fitness, Parents and Child — was handled, feeling they spokeswoman, noting the magazine’s ad should have had a chance to bid on them. Hachette BAILEY-ING OUT: Another week, another high- page growth (up 8.7 percent through June, chief executive officer Jack Kliger confirmed as much to level editor handing in her notice at Harper’s Bazaar. This according to Media Industry Newsletter), insisted all was WWD, adding that he had in fact contacted Bertelsmann time it’s photography director Cary Estes Leitzes, who is well. “While we’re always sorry to see long-standing staff about buying its G+J USA unit earlier in the year, only to leaving to start a company that will “connect members go, we’re excited about the great contributions be told the company was not for sale. Bertelsmann contemporary artists with commercial ventures,” new members bring to the table.” — J.B. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 Fresh Notions Emanuel Ungaro Pucci THANKS TO A BURST OF colors and prints, Pucci’s cruise clothes are as true to the house’s signature as it gets. Creative director Christian Lacroix goes feminine and slightly “La Dolce Vita” with a string of flirty party dresses, frothy tops, jersey columns and capri pants, all in washed pastels that recall Emanuel Ungaro the colors of the sea. Meanwhile, at Emanuel Ungaro, tuxedo pants come dressed down in white cotton and cashmere tops are kissed with delicate lace ruffles and dramatic chiffon edging. According to Ungaro designer Vincent Darre,“I wanted the collection to be suitable for a young French heiress from a bonne famille.” In his second resort season, Matthew Williamson features a lineup of pretty frocks with plenty of beading and sparkle that will have his PYTs dazzling at holiday affairs. Emanuel Ungaro WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 7 WWD.COM

Pucci Matthew Williamson Matthew Williamson

Pucci Matthew Williamson NTINO/COPPOLA AGENCY PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO, KHEPRI STUDIO AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE; PUCCI MODEL: EKATERINA/WOMEN; PUCCI HAIR AND MAKEUP BY RITA FIORE RITA PUCCI HAIR AND MAKEUP BY KHEPRI STUDIO AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE; PUCCI MODEL: EKATERINA/WOMEN; CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM

Summer may technically be only a week old, but Marina its unofficial uniform is Rust in already apparent: a Michael tunic and white pants. Kors and Indian Levi’s. The elegant look has carried ladies from chic Hampton house parties Summer to casual dinners in the city and early evening in-store events. More than one social turned to Tory Burch and her embroidered and beaded numbers. Others interpreted the trend on their own with shortened caftans and colorful ethnic versions. Still, no one wants to see themselves coming and going as the season wears on. At this rate, even just a pair of blue jeans would be a refreshing twist on the theme.

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Muffie Potter Aston inin ToryTory byby TRB.TRB.

Jane Lauder Lauren inin duPont in Michael JennyJenny KennedyKennedy atat anan Michael Kors. Akris/Christie’s lunch. PYTs… Kors. Double Trouble PARIS — Any Parisian woman worth her Hermès scarf is familiar with the simple, modern staples of French designer Agnès Trouble, better known as agnès b. But even some of her most loyal customers might be surprised to learn the designer is intimately familiar with another hallmark of French chic, the Cannes Film Festival, having seen it from the inside “over the last five or six years because I’m getting more involved in film,” says the designer. Trouble, in fact, heads a small but active movie production company, Love Streams, which she founded in 1997 after many of her director and actor friends sought help when their funds dried up. “I decided to formalize what became a regular rescue operation,” she says. Her latest project is “Heart of the Festival,” a documentary about Cannes that was assembled from “millions of hours” of archive material by Gilles Jacobs, the festival’s long-standing president. Trouble will distribute the film, which will be launched in the U.S. this evening with a screening at MoMA, followed by a party at Frederick’s. “What I love about Gilles’ film is the way it captures the essence of Cannes,” says Trouble. “He knows the festival so incredibly well. His film isn’t nostalgic. It’s a AgnèsAgnes Trouble joyous homage to the cinema. It makes you want to go to the movies.” Many unforgettable movie moments are featured, from Federico Fellini, Luis Buñuel and Jean-Luc Godard talking about their art to Francis Ford Coppola, As does Trouble. Though Cannes has become part of her production work, the surrounded by his children, presenting “Apocalypse Now” to the press. designer hasn’t forgotten its fashion factor. “I made a western tuxedo for Jim Jarmusch Though Cannes has launched many cinematic landmarks, its reputation wouldn’t this time that he hardly took off the whole festival. I also made a tuxedo for Gilles.” be the same without the famous red-carpeted “steps.” Meanwhile, Trouble’s production schedule is whirring forward. At present, she is “They are part of what makes Cannes unique,” says Trouble, dragging on a Marlboro involved in about a dozen films, including a feature by director Patrice Chereau and Light in the Hotel Costes. “The steps create a special ambience. Cannes is glamorous. a “making of ” about artist Matthew Barney’s new “Drawing Restraint” cycle. The men are elegant; the women are beautiful. The photographers are in tuxedos. “I’ve always loved film,” she says. “I grew up near a cinema. At night, I could hear “Gilles shows that glamour. He also shows the ideas. He understands the festival movie music filtering into my room. Fashion is just my job.” isn’t only one thing.” — Robert Murphy TUNIC PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER, KEITH SMITH AND THOMAS IANNACCONE; TROUBLE BY STEPHANE FEUGERE KEITH SMITH AND THOMAS IANNACCONE; TROUBLE BY STEVE EICHNER, TUNIC PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 9 WWD.COM Te x t i l e & Tr ade Report BIS Calls for Revaluation of Yuan The Fiber Price Sheet The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the By John Zarocostas central banks that “near-term prospects appear, on bal- current, month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices ance, good” for further robust growth. listed reflect the cost of one pound of fiber or, in the GENEVA — The Bank for International Settlements said The BIS projects the global economy this year to grow Monday that China’s currency, the yuan, is a candidate by 4 percent, slightly below last year’s 5 percent expansion, case of crude oil, one barrel. for revaluation, a move that would also give more scope with the U.S. and emerging Asian economies — spearhead- to contain domestic inflation in the overheated economy. ed by China and India — the principal locomotives. The Price on Price on Price on In its annual report, the BIS acknowledged that U.S. is forecast to grow by 3.4 percent in 2005, while China, Fiber 6/27/05* 5/27/05 6/28/04 Chinese authorities have legitimate concerns regarding which expanded by 9.5 percent in the first quarter of 2005, how a currency revaluation is expected to grow by 8.9 per- Cotton 54.30 cents 54.57 cents 63.99 cents could affect the overall health cent, or a fraction below last Wool $2.48 $2.53 $2.57 of its financial system. Greater exchange-rate year’s 9.5 percent increase. India Polyester staple 69 cents 69 cents 60 cents However, those concerns could “ is expected to sustain last year’s be better dealt with through do- flexibility would help curb increase of 7.1 percent. Polyester filament 76 cents 76 cents 60 cents mestic policies, said the report. Despite efforts by Chinese May Synthetic PPI 112.3 112.1 106.4 “Greater exchange-rate flex- the massive capital inflows authorities to slow down the ibility would help curb the mas- economy, the BIS points out Crude Oil $59.84 $51.01 $37.55 sive capital inflows that are that are contributing to the that in 2004 “the ratio of nomi- *The current cotton price is the May average on fiber being delivered to contributing to the growing im- nal fixed asset investment to Southeastern region mills, according to Agricultural Marketing balances that threaten the sus- growing imbalances that GDP increased further from 47 Services/USDA. The wool price is based on the average price for the tainability of China’s long ex- percent in 2003 to 51 percent in week ended June 24 of 11 different thicknesses of fiber, ranging from pansion,” the report said. threaten the sustainability 2004 and investments in some 15 microns to 30 microns, according to The Woolmark Co. Information Since 1995, the Chinese cur- of China’s long expansion. overheated sectors like real es- on polyester pricing is provided by the consulting firm DeWitt & Co. rency has been pegged to the tate continued apace.” The synthetic-fiber producer index, or PPI, is compiled by the Bureau of ” Labor Statistics and reflects the overall change in all synthetic-fiber dollar at a rate of 8.28 yuan to The BIS said Chinese ex- one dollar. With the sharp in- — BIS report ports have remained strong prices. It is not a price in dollars but a measurement of how prices crease in China’s trade surplus and added the abolition of quo- have changed since 1982, which had a PPI of 100. Oil prices reflect with the U.S., Beijing has come under increased pressure tas on Jan. 1 has “provided a further boost to the ex- last week’s closing price on the New York Mercantile Exchange of from the Bush administration and domestic U.S. manufac- ports of major Asian economies, especially China.” future contracts for light, sweet crude oil to be delivered next month. turers to revalue its currency to remove what is perceived Given China’s and India’s “cost and productivity ad- as an unfair competitive advantage. Chinese monetary au- vantages,” the BIS anticipates the two large Asian nations thorities, noted the report, “have continued to accumulate will increase their share of exports in the sector “putting mobility and movement of factories to lower-cost juris- sizable amounts of dollar reserves in their attempt to pre- pressure on other textile exporting countries to adjust.” dictions have kept a cap on wages and intensified down- serve the fixed rate vis-à-vis the U.S. currency.” BIS economists also noted that globalization and the ward pressure on prices. In February, China’s exchange reserves stood at $642.6 impact of “massive increases in the supply of manufac- “The emphasis has been on cost-cutting. Super- billion and last year increased by $206.7 billion, it said. tured goods, especially from China…have resulted in markets…and others directly serving consumers have On the outlook for the world economy, Nouk Wellink, prices of traded goods falling for almost a decade.” been putting relentless pressure on global suppliers to BIS president, told representatives from more than 100 The report outlined that greater cross-border labor provide more for less.”

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Te x t i l es & Trade CAFTA Vote Creates Split in R S.

InternationalInternational TextileTextile GroupGroup denimdenim plant.plant. CHASTAIN PHOTO BY FRED ROLLISON; ITG, CAUTHEN AND GUTIERREZ PHOTOS BY RICHARD HAGGERTY PHOTOGRAPHY; ROSS PHOTO FROM WWD ARCHIVE PHOTOGRAPHY; RICHARD HAGGERTY AND GUTIERREZ PHOTOS BY FRED ROLLISON; ITG, CAUTHEN PHOTO BY CHASTAIN

Continued from page one While Ross has ITG operating with a global strategy to take advantage of free producing states. They fear it will hurt domestic manufacturers. trade, Milliken & Co. in Spartanburg, S.C., represents the other end of the spectrum. The House vote is too close to call. The vote might depend on representatives from Milliken is one of the largest privately held textile and chemical manufacturers in the North and South Carolina, whose constituents appear divided on the issue. world. The company employs in excess of 12,000 people in more than 60 facilities In towns like Greensboro and Lumberton in North Carolina and Spartanburg and worldwide and produces some 38,000 products. In its factories outside the U.S., Mauldin in South Carolina, the smokestacks of textile mills still dot the landscape — Milliken sells to the local market and does not export. their presence a reminder of an industry that helped shape the region for a century. Chairman and chief executive officer Roger Milliken is legendary in the textile in- But it is an industry that has been declining for 25 years because of soaring imports, dustry for his protectionist bent. He declined to comment on CAFTA. automation, rising costs, economic instability and the movement of the population to However, the company’s Washington counsel, Jock Nash, left no doubt where cities with white-collar jobs. Milliken stands. Central America is a boon for U.S. fabric and yarn exports, which totaled $4 billion in The U.S. has “lost jobs but they have not been replaced farther up the valued- 2004. But that business was built under a trade-preference program that largely required added chain,’’ Nash said. “We’re losing jobs in steel, electronics, textiles and automo- the use of U.S. fabric and yarn in finished products to qualify for duty-free import status. tives…and as a consequence it is hollowing out the good part of our middle CAFTA’s rule of origin strips away that requirement and allows the use of yarn, fabric class…and that is unacceptable to Mr. Milliken and that is what we are fighting for. If and threads from any of the signatory countries. In addition, the trade accord contains someone wants to call us naysayers, so be it.” more exceptions for the use of foreign fabrics and yarns than the existing program. Nash said Milliken has been concerned about prevailing trade policies for decades. The divide in the industry generally lies between fabric producers that oppose the “We consider ourselves realists,’’ he said. “We’re not in denial about the storm deal because of the allowance of foreign fabric, and yarn spinners and fiber produc- clouds that are gathering — and there are serious ones. We desperately want a reeval- ers that support it for the export opportunities. uation of our trade policies that continue to make agreements…like CAFTA, which In North Carolina, the textile and apparel industries lost a total of 171,000 jobs have the ability to produce for export to our market but have no ability to buy.” from May 1993 through May 2005 and employment stands at 98,400. During the same A similar view is held by Roger Chastain, president and chief operating officer of period, employment in the industries in South Carolina fell by 78,500 to 46,500. Mount Vernon Mills, based in Mauldin, S.C., which employs 4,134 people in the U.S. Many companies are prepared to build plants in Central America if CAFTA passes, Chastain said the industry is split among executives who believe in promoting U.S while others plan to stay committed to their domestic operations. On another level, jobs, those who don’t and those “who don’t have a dog in the fight.” the decision to oppose or support the proposal comes down to the beliefs of the “You don’t really gain anything out of CAFTA unless you want to take your equip- Southern mill owners. ment and move down there,” Chastain said. “You are really voting to get rid of Financier Wilbur L. Ross, who formed International Textile Group, based here, American jobs and that is one of our big problems with it.” through the acquisition of Burlington Industries and Cone Mills and serves as its In Washington, the so-called textile vote could be the trump card in the CAFTA chairman, is unusual because he is a free-trade advocate who favors CAFTA although showdown. The House Textile Caucus, comprising some 80 lawmakers, represents a his firm is a major fabric producer. significant voting bloc. “It’s polarized, frankly, because there are a number of people in the industry who The Bush administration is lobbying hard for the agreement. Commerce Secretary have done nothing about anything except lobby the government [for protection],” Ross Carlos Gutierrez, for example, arrived this month at a Greensboro Chamber of said. “There were a number of companies experiencing financial difficulties without Commerce luncheon in an effort to rally support among textile and business execu- the quotas going off, largely because they are totally domestic in orientation and still tives. He touted the benefits of CAFTA to an audience made up primarily of propo- [operate] with an old-fashioned attitude.” nents of the trade deal, including ITG, National Textiles, National Spinning, Glen Ross was referring to the elimination of global quotas in January, which many in Raven Inc. and VF Corp., which has a Wrangler plant in Greensboro. the domestic industry said was another blow to U.S. manufacturers. It also resulted in North Carolina exports a total of $1.7 billion in goods annually to the CAFTA re- surging textile and apparel exports from China. Some proponents argue the proposed gion and textiles and apparel exports account for $1.32 billion, he said, adding the agreement with Costa Rica, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua and the state is third behind Texas and Florida in state exports to the area. Dominican Republic will balance the trade waters. Gutierrez said CAFTA would help preserve and create jobs in the U.S. ITG is poised to open a Cone Mills denim plant in Guatemala if CAFTA is ap- “I encourage you respectfully to beware of the naysayers,” he said. “They sit around proved. Cone already has a mill in Mexico and joint ventures in India and Turkey. complaining about reality and then develop a strategy that suggests we can go back 20 to ITG also established its first manufacturing operation in China. In December, the 30 years, and it may sound very compelling. It may be what people want to hear. But make firm signed a deal with China Ting Group, a major Chinese textile producer, to invest no mistake about it, they can’t do it, and over time that becomes very, very obvious.” a combined $20 million to build a dyeing and finishing plant in the city of Linping, The political fractures surfaced publicly when the Bush administration won the about 100 miles southwest of Shanghai. endorsement of Sen. Elizabeth Dole (R., N.C.) and the National Council of Textile WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 11 WWD.COM Region Where Textiles Thrived Organizations after pledging to try and ease some of the effects of the accord. in the yarn manufacturing side of the business could “easily” remain in the U.S. The American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition and National Textile Rowland, who operates 10 factories producing five million pounds of knit goods a Association, representing a large portion of the industry, remain opposed to CAFTA. week and 8.5 million pounds of yarn, said he ships 100 percent of what he produces to Gerald Cauthen, vice president of sales and manufacturing for circular knitting Central America or Mexico and fears the repercussions if CAFTA is not approved. mill Contempora Fabrics Inc., in Lumberton, N.C., opposes the trade deal and fears it “With CAFTA, retailers and importers have more opportunities to import and they could negatively impact the domestic industry. will put more resources in the area,” Rowland said. “It also gives us the ability Cauthen said he sits on his patio at night or in the wee hours of the to increase our business in the region.” morning and wonders how he can obtain a slice of business from Wal- The textile and apparel industries nationwide have lost a total of Mart. He worries about his own livelihood — he recently took a salary 893,400 jobs, or 57.4 percent of the workforce, since December 1994. cut — and the migration of business and his customers offshore, and Employment in the two industries is 663,100. he reevaluates his business strategy daily to make sure he is meet- Gary Gereffi, professor of sociology and director of the Center ing the needs of his remaining customers. He is relying on Defense on Globalization, Governance & Competitiveness at Duke Department orders to boost his bottom line. University in Durham, N.C., said his state, which has the largest Contempora, an employee-owned company founded in 1972, concentration of textile production, has suffered dramatic job employs 175 workers and produces greige goods and a small Commerce Secretary losses for several reasons, including shifts in sourcing patterns, amount of finished apparel fabrics. Cauthen said business has Carlos Gutierrez the rise in manufacturing capabilities globally and the global been tough for the past four years, but he can’t afford to move his speaking in quota phaseout of textiles and apparel on Jan. 1. factory to Central America and he doesn’t want to sacrifice the jobs Greensboro, N.C. In 1993, North Carolina had 2,250 textile and apparel plants, at home. employing 267,741 people, but by 2003, the state saw a 30 percent “I’m going to slug it out here as long as I can slug it out,” he said. decline in the number of plants to 1,578 and a 57 percent decrease in “We are going to work hard to do whatever we can to try to make it in employment to 116,309 workers. this industry and I believe if we can manage to hang on — and I don’t have Gereffi said Southern mill owners who insist on clinging to outdated stockholders I have to report to — there could be a reversal in a few years.” business models will not survive, but he is also concerned that U.S. textile ex- Cauthen predicted there will be a backlash against Wal-Mart, which he argued forces ecutives who move offshore will not be able to compete with Asian textile companies competitors to seek lower-priced countries and leads to more job losses in the U.S. in foreign markets. Across the state, Jerry Rowland, ceo and president of Winston-Salem, N.C.-based “Sooner or later, lower-wage locations will affect textiles as it has apparel,” Gereffi National Textiles, which employs 3,500 workers, supports CAFTA and is ready to said. “The truth is the U.S. textile industry does rely quite heavily on Mexico and the move a portion of his business to Central America if it passes. He said 1,500 workers CAFTA countries.”

WILBUR L. ROSS: MAVERICK MOGUL ROGER CHASTAIN: PILLAR OF TRADITION GREENSBORO, N.C. — Wilbur L. Ross represents the MAULDIN, S.C. — Roger Chastain is a member of the textile industry’s old guard. textile industry’s new breed. Chastain, 63, president and chief operating officer of Mount Vernon Mills here, Ross, 67, a financier who formed International Textile which employs 4,134 people in the U.S., is tired of watching the nation’s manufac- Group, based here, through the acquisition of Burlington turing base shrink. Industries and Cone Mills and serves as chairman, is That’s the primary reason he resigned from the board of the National Council of ready to open a denim plant in Guatemala if Congress ap- Textile Organizations when it voted to endorse CAFTA and splintered the industry. proves the Central American Free Trade Agreement. Beyond his philosophical leanings, Chastain said CAFTA could hurt his business. Ross broke from the ranks of the textile industry to In an interview at his headquarters here on the outskirts of Greenville, support CAFTA and won a key provision that allows a Chastain, who has trimmed his U.S. payroll from a high of 6,000 at the end of 2002, limited amount of woven apparel and denim fabric said the agreement will hit the company’s pocketing and lining business if a pledge made in the CAFTA countries — Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Wilbur by the Bush administration to change a provision in the accord falls through — and Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras and the Dominican L. Ross he predicted it will. Republic — from Mexican and Canadian fabric to quali- “We’ve got six operations that run pockets and linings, including two in Texas, fy for duty-free treatment in the U.S. This, in effect, links one in Mississippi, two in South Carolina and one in Alabama, and there will defi- CAFTA to the North American Free Trade Agreement, the 11-year-old pact among nitely be some jobs lost,” he said. the U.S., Canada and Mexico. Chastain has seen many of his close competitors close and file for bankruptcy. However, he has been forced to put his plans for the denim plant on hold be- “Those jobs are gone for good,” he said. cause of the CAFTA debate. If it is approved soon, Ross said he could have his He feels so strongly about the damaging impact of free trade and imports that he plant producing 30 million yards of denim a year by the end of 2006. would not support CAFTA even if the administration “The big issue is how much will happen in terms of apparel manufacturers and changed a provision in the accord to require U.S. or region- retailers getting tired of waiting for CAFTA and making their sourcing decisions al-only pocketing fabrics, which would help his business. somewhere else,” he said in an interview. He is opposed to moving the business abroad like Joe Gorga, president and chief executive officer of ITG, said the company’s largest some competitors. U.S. denim factory — the White Oak plant here, employing 1,100 workers and produc- “I’m too old,” he said. “We are not a public company. ing 42 million yards a year— will remain “very strategic for us in our future map.” If you are a public company, you can go wherever it is ITG employs about 5,400 people, but Burlington and Cone Mills had cut their cheapest and wherever they will make the most profit. workforces substantially in the year before the acquisitions. That part is the tragedy.” Ross acknowledged the trade treaty has flaws. He had raised concerns about Even if Mount Vernon were a public company, the exceptions for foreign fabric and yarns given to Nicaragua. Chastain would be opposed to shifting his business and “No treaty is perfect,” Ross said. “The Constitution of the U.S. is not perfect, firing U.S. workers. and our tax system is not perfect, but that doesn’t mean you throw it all away be- “I don’t know where people come from on wanting to cause you don’t like a semicolon. The real question is, on balance, ‘Is the industry Roger move to low-wage countries,” Chastain said. “I guess better off with or without CAFTA?’ and it is much better off with it.” Chastain I’m too old to want to make a living that way.” — Kristi Ellis — K.E. 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Cassini Returns to Oval Office NEW YORK — During the Kennedy administration, Oleg Jean-Georges Vongerichten and the staff in Calvin Klein. Cassini made many a trip to the White House. Now, nearly 60 years later, he is suiting up another first lady — this time a fictional one. The 92-year-old designer has created a score of outfits for Kim Basinger, who plays first lady Sarah Ballentine in 20th Century Fox’s forth- coming political thriller, “The Sentinel.” But Basinger didn’t choose Cassini solely for his White House experience. She sought him out after recently coming across a 1993 magazine clip where he had singled her out as a Hollywood beauty. Cassini hadn’t forgotten her, either. “I remembered the way she looked and her picture, the one with [Mickey] Rourke,” said Cassini, referring to her notoriously risqué performance in the 1986 flick “Nine 1/2 Weeks.” The designer is right at home in Hollywood. Cassini got his start in fashion by designing costumes for mar- quee-gleaming actresses like Dorothy Lamour, Veronica Lake, Rita Hayworth, Natalie Wood, Ursula Andress, Grace Kelly and Gene Tierney. An impeccably dressed man-about-town, he dated Betty Grable, was engaged to Kelly and married Tierney. In the early Forties, Cassini, a deft athlete, used his tennis skills to make Hollywood connections at the West Side Tennis Club, a popular hangout with movie types in Cheviot Hills, Calif. After winning a doubles tennis tournament with a stranger he had been matched up with, Cassini began talk- ing to the man and learned he was a Paramount Pictures executive. He tipped off the aspiring designer to an open- ing in the studio’s costume department and after working through the night making samples, Cassini scored a job. There, he met Edith Head, “a fabulous talker” and “one Oleg Cassini’s of the most talented politicians” he’d ever encountered. sketch for Kim By the late Forties, Cassini had established Basinger. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER such a presence that Jack Warner asked him to head up Warner Bros.’ wardrobe department, but he declined. Instead, the nimble designer decided to give Seventh Avenue a whirl. Calvin Klein Outfits Perry St. While Basinger might not be familiar with all the ins and outs of his Tinseltown days, Cassini said, “She knew I handled the big stars in Hollywood.” By Marc Karimzadeh Coincidentally, Cassini claims in his autobiography to have created Lake’s look, which Basinger adopted for her role in “L.A. Confidential.” NEW YORK — Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s new eatery For the actress’ role in “The Sentinel,” Cassini drummed up outfits for her first 12 Perry St. resembles a chic Sixties airport lounge replete scenes, including a backless dress with a jacket, a military-looking blue suit and pale with white leather banquettes, modernist gray sofas and blue suit with a camisole. He will also deck out the 51-year-old Academy Award win- a black resin bar. ning actress for premieres for “The Sentinel.” The designer is considering offering The era’s feel also goes beyond the furnishings. To dresses and suits inspired by Basinger’s character at retail, possibly for spring 2006. reflect the glamour associated with travel at the time, One of his jackets is featured prominently in the opening scene, but Cassini de- the restaurant approached the Calvin Klein company to clined to elaborate since the film is still being shot in Toronto. He did not dress create uniforms. The collaboration came about three the film’s other stars, Michael Douglas and Kiefer Sutherland, or Eva Longoria, months ago, when Calvin Klein started to plan an un- who has a supporting role. The film is scheduled to be released next year. derwear campaign party there. While Cassini remains widely known for the crisp, colorful first lady looks he “I knew exactly what I’d wanted to do,” said Lois provided for Jacqueline Kennedy, he said he did not submerge himself in old Freedman, director of operations at Jean-Georges’ photos before setting out on this latest project. restaurants, when asked how she had envisioned the “I never go back. I try to go forward,” he said. uniforms. “I went in there with the idea of a restaurant — Rosemary Feitelberg looking like a 1960s TWA first-class lounge…and the way that first-class flight attendants looked at the time.” Freedman sent Kevin Carrigan, creative director for ck Calvin Klein and the better-priced Calvin Klein sportswear, elements of the restaurant such as samples Calvin Klein’s Kevin Carrigan. of the wood, fabrics, tables, chairs and carpeting. For re- Watermill to Serve Fashion Punch search, Carrigan studied black-and-white photos of TWA in the early Sixties as well as im- NEW YORK — Considering the Viktor & Rolf store ages of Jackie and John F. Kennedy. He even watched the movie, “Catch Me if You Can,” in Milan has an upside-down decor and the label’s which starred Leonardo di Caprio and dozens of actresses dressed as chic Sixties flight at- fall collection was inspired by a bedtime story, it’s tendants. anyone’s guess what designers Viktor Horsting “You know how trolley dollys are thought of these days,” Carrigan said. “It’s not consid- and Rolf Snoeren will cook up as co-chairmen of ered a chic job anymore. In the Fifties and Sixties, it was really quite exclusive and up- the Watermill Center’s annual benefit on July 30. market, and that’s what I wanted to convey.” Watermill’s artistic director Robert Wilson re- The looks come from the better-priced Calvin Klein sportswear, which is marked by its cruited the pair to help headline this summer’s white label. For the male staff, Carrigan designed slim-cut black pants, a white shirt with a “Brazil” extravaganza, which will adorn the cen- pointed collar and seams reminiscent of a men’s tuxedo shirt and a slim black tie, worn ter’s secluded six acres in Southampton, N.Y. PaulaGabriela’s image for the with a silver Tiffany & Co. tie clip. The female staff, meanwhile, wears a similar shirt and But they won’t be the only fashion VIPs. LVMH invitation. black pants, but accessorizes the look with a black neckerchief. The hostess wears a tai- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman Bernard lored black shift dress. “At the end of the day, I just thought it was very Calvin to do black Arnault, Diane von Furstenberg, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and white,” Carrigan said. Annie Leibovitz and Carlos Miele are also among the honorary chairmen. Carrigan took special care when choosing fabrics, fully aware that they are subject to LVMH will sponsor the tropical chic-themed evening, which tends to be a challenging conditions. “They are waiting and they’re moving, picking up knives and forks standout of the heavily booked Hamptons summer scene. that fall over or spilling water over themselves all the time,” he noted. So why is Wilson such a ringleader with the fashion world? “Maybe the con- He looked to Japanese mills for high-performance fabrics such as a Japanese crepe for nection is, there is such a constant challenge for designers to look for new women and a gabardine for men. “If they are coming home late from a restaurant and they ideas all the time. That’s exactly what Bob Wilson and Watermill stand for — need to wash that shirt again, they could wash it by hand, or they can send it out,” he said. an idea factory,” said its executive director Charles Fabius. “In general, fash- Freedman wants the Perry St. staff to have a classic and clean look with hair pulled ion is moving in a different place, away from the catwalk.” back and minimal makeup and jewelry. “It should be really clean and sleek. I think it real- Watermill’s outdoor installations and performances appeal to designers like ly does need to be uniform and express what we are trying to do,” Freedman said. Viktor & Rolf, who are interested in presenting fashion in a very theatrical way, This isn’t the first Vongerichten restaurant with designer uniforms. Alpana Bawa outfit- Fabius said. For some, just being in the great outdoors can help drum up ideas. ted the staff at Spice Market, while Vivienne Tam created uniforms for 66. During a Calvin Klein-sponsored preview benefit sale of Wilson’s own “When I go to restaurants, I love being waited on by people who are well-dressed,” drawings last week, Francisco Costa noted that nature is a major source of in- Carrigan said. “They just act differently. They are more groomed and they command spiration for his work. Finding the time to get to his country home to unearth better.” that inspiration is another story. Perry St., which is expected to open its doors quietly this week, is located in the “Brazil” will feature art installations and performances by PaulaGabriela, Os Richard Meier-designed towers on West and Perry Streets. Ironically, Calvin Klein himself Gemelos, Tatiana Grinberg and João Modé. In keeping with the theme, artist Vik occupies the top two floors of the building. Should he ever choose to pop down for a meal, Muniz has designed a pair of limited-edition Havaianas flip-flops for guests to buy. he may even rub shoulders with Carrigan, who plans to frequent Perry St. “It’s such a — R.F. beautiful space…if I can get in,” Carrigan quipped. An Advertising Section in WWD , Tuesday, June 28, 2005

Marioboselli Seterie Argenti Marioboselli Textiles from Italy: A Legacy of Passion, Quality and Romance Textiles from Italy prove location means everything. of Lycra and heavy tweeds with fancy effects will come in casted indigos, garment tints and color over color. Color For thousands of years, the world has turned to Italy vivid colors, the firm noted. Fabrics from shetlands to management is an emerging field of interest to weavers for fabrics that embody beauty, quality and innovation. flannels will be made with natural fibers and synthetics and garment processors. “The most dramatic development With a system of specialized districts dating back to enrich designs in a wide range of colors. in the market is the return to unwashed,” said Peter Rohr, generations, Italy is a land of experts like no other. “A successful group of styles will be displayed in our denim consultant, ItalDenim. Whether they seek the finest silks from Como, woolen women’s and men’s collections,” said Grazia Mello, export Looks from the 1970s and 80s, with pure shades, even blends from Prato or luxury fibers from Biella, designers manager, Tessilstrona. The firm’s textiles will include wash and natural or customized damage, will reappear. and consumers throughout the world know Italian fabrics “new fibers, textures and designs,” along with natural Vintage will become more subtle with less finishing and are true fashion. colors like pumpkin, grape, peacock green and black more repair work. “Moving forward, reconstruction and pepper. Other fabrics include tweeds, silk and wool repairs - not damage - will be the new look of vintage,” blends and innovative finishes and stretch that “is said Rohr. BIELLA natural or with Lycra,” Mello said. Color management is also advancing. “Watch for Workers in the Biella district first began weaving about No other country can top Italian textiles, she concurred. indications of color: blues blending into black or greens, 500 BC. The introduction of production machinery in the “Italian textiles are, and will remain, the major source of blacks blending into blue after washings,” he continued. 19th Century evolved wool into a sophisticated industry, creativity, and we will be selling more and more around A fusion of technology, chemistry and creativity will excite with the transition from river mills to modern energy the world, including China,” Mello continued. the consumer over the next few seasons, including new sources making Biella one of the world’s busiest textile “Mass production will take place in the low-cost weaving patterns, lightweight fabrics and new finishes. producers, offering a significant contribution to the countries, but our high-level quality fashion customers “Made in Italy” label. will stay with us. We have to continue our process of COMO Today the district is made up of 1,100 textile companies being unique and always moving one step forward. And that employ over 20,000 people, with total global sales of we Italians have always been trained to do that.” The district of Como has been one of the world’s most 4 billion euros in 2004. The Luigi Boggio Casero Fall/Winter 2006/2007 important silk producers since the first spinning mill “Personalization (in textiles) is an important component,” collection “will be marked by a natural allure and need opened there in 1510. asserted Paolo Zegna, president, Sistema Moda Italia for harmony and vitality, softness and sweetness that Its exquisite dyed and printed silk and silk-type fabrics and co-ceo, Ermenegildo Zegna Group. point out a feminine elegance,” noted Eugenio Boggio are used for everything from ties, scarves and women’s From the yarn to the completed product, Italian textile Casero, ceo, Luigi Boggio Casero. Fabrics will feature wear to swimwear and home furnishings. Technical makers aim to differentiate themselves, he stressed. In contrasts of light and dark tones and contrasting developments have led to new production methods, and addition to respecting environmental standards, “our surfaces. Black and white will be essential for the today, Como silk mills offer innovative fabrics that flexibility, creativity, service and innovation justify the season, with some flashes of color. Fibers will include incorporate wool, alpaca, polyester and metallic fibers, fact that our fabrics may cost more, but are worth it,” natural wools, cottons and silks. “The general business as well as natural and polyester fabrics. Zegna asserted. at the moment is stable, compared to previous seasons,” Despite declines in some sectors, Como textiles fourth Lanificio Campore included a soft, pleasant touch in added Casero. quarter sales volume still increased by 1.3 percent, with its winter collection. Lightweight tweeds with the addition Trends from ItalDenim focus on shade, such as continued to page 2 Creativity and Innovation Highlight Italy’s Fashion System With shipments increasing 15.4 percent to $548.64 attributes of Italian production and are difficult for other million, Italy has once again confirmed its leadership in countries to copy due to Italy’s centuries-old culture in the export of high-end fabrics to the U.S., according to beauty and taste, observed Paolo Zegna, president of statistics by the U.S. Department of Commerce. Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), the association of Italian textile According to Roberto Luongo, executive director for the and fashion firms. U.S. at the Italian Trade Commission, the growth in demand “Italian lifestyle is perceived very positively as a standard means customers appreciate the quality and creativity of (for all) to emulate,” Zegna stressed. “The Made in Italy Italian made fabrics. credit remains significant, thanks to Italy’s technical People know that if they are looking for high-end, ability, creativity, innovation and entrepreneurial spirit, sophisticated fabrics with great texture, Italy is the most which are envied across the world.” reliable source, he noted. From cashmere to taffeta, from Many of the leading Italian mills will be exhibiting in New embroideries to prints, Italy can offer both well-established York, July 13-14, 2005 for the Italian Trade Commission’s and up and coming designers a wide range of choices I-Texstyle program, previewing their Fall/Winter 2006 and solutions. collections. The mills are based in the top three Italian Seterie Argenti Creativity, strength and innovation are the primary textile districts: Biella, Como and Prato. ADVERTISEMENT

Tessile Fiorentina Picchi Tessile Fiorentina Italian Mills Weave Color and Texture

continued from page 1 domestic sales rising 4.9 percent in 2004, according to realize it is important for our R & D team to travel the world cotton, double twisted yarns and cotton blends with results released by Sistema Moda Italia. “The value of for inspiration and make constant investments in creativity, synthetics and viscose in dark colors with bright orders received by the Italian silk industry during the last research, new machinery and staff,” concluded Vigano’. motifs that appear to pop out or whites with clean, quarter of 2004 increased by 1.1 percent over those of the Creased metallic looks will continue for Fall/Winter well-defined stripes. same period in 2003.” 2006/2007 at Teseo, with fabrics in different variations, Vanity will feature an Evening Group of taffetas and Meanwhile, women’s textile accessories averaged a 3 like silk metallic, wool metallic, copper and brass. The poly blends, Jacquard Stretch in romantic colors, percent growth in sales during 2004, the association firm will blend natural yarns such as silk and cashmere, Sportswear Stripes in sportswear tones and the NoStretch reported, with 1.1 percent growth internationally. camel hair and silk, wool and silk, and silk cotton and Shirting Group will be classic and innovative in “Our Winter ‘06 World Tour will be a very glamorous cashmere. clean colors. collection where every technique possible will be used to “However, sometimes a synthetic fiber allows us to “Italian textiles are generally selling more across embellish the surface of our prints, jacquards and yarn reach results that are otherwise not achievable with the world with top customers who are looking for quality dyes,” commented Michele Vigano’, Seterie Argenti. natural yarns only,” noted Adriano Clerici, Teseo. and innovation more than price. In particular, they are “The skirt will be the star of the season, so we are “The return of taffeta is a very important theme, and starting to sell to Asian and Chinese manufacturers preparing a number of diverse variations on this theme, we’ve proposed it in several variations, including printed as they understand that they cannot have only basic such as pleats, crushed finishes, circle shapes and taffeta. Iridescent effects are also very important in fabrics in their collections, but need something special, border designs,” he added. taffetas and other articles as well,” he added. even if it is small quantities and generally to enrich Warm wools, mixed blends and buttoned yarns, tweeds Prints and patterns are inspired by Middle Eastern their windows,” noted Claudio Taiana, president, Taiana and masculine stripes from Argenti that are heavily themes. Virgilio. tumbled and stone-washed will be important. Metal While there is uncertainty due to the influence of “Guest has a new collection for Fall/ Winter 2006/2007 yarn will be used in new weaves to give an un-ironed China, Italian textiles give added value and Italian firms that is charged with energy. It is absolutely necessary!” appearance. Warm wools and silky fibers will be used in focus on benefits to the environment and labor that “in said Cristina Curti, U.S. exports manager, Guest. contrast for a sober but sophisticated look, he explained. the long run, are certainly more important than price,” The collection will showcase structured cotton that is Other innovative fabrics feature rich colors that will be Clerici asserted. over-dyed and over-printed with a new jacquard mixed saturated and intense and often contrasted with slightly Taiana Virgilio features two collections for the with cotton, metallic and viscose. powdery tones. After five generations of business, “in Fall/Winter 2006/2007 season: Taiana Cult for men and “An important new introduction this season is washed order to compete in this very competitive market, we Taiana Vanity for women. Cult will focus on 100 percent continued to page 4 Fabric Flexibility in ‘06/‘07 Four Textile Trade Fairs

Italian textiles continue to gain a Consumers across the world appreciate Combine for Milano Unica following around the world, thanks to the Italian fabrics because they see the art industry’s ongoing investments in research and culture behind them, “a high-quality Four Italian textile fairs — Ideabiella, customers,” Zegna asserted. and experimentation, said Angelo Uslenghi, sense of life due to practicality, comfort Ideacomo, Moda In and Shirt Avenue – Over 400 exhibitors will participate in director of the Moda In creative team. with elegance and glamour,” Uslenghi have joined forces to produce a new fair, the 44th edition of Moda In, said Max “Creativity, high standards, flexibility reported. Milano Unica, on September 13-16, 2005 Dubini, president, Moda In. “Milano Unica and quick response to customers’ needs “A mingling of fashion, sociology in Milan, the world’s international fashion represents a golden business and are the credo of an Italian textile mill. and culture provides inspiration for capital. marketing opportunity to the entire sector.” They lead in innovation and prestige.” textile stories that mix richness and Each show will still manage its own Pier Luigi Loro Piana, president of The average Italian mill offers collabo- sobriety, delicacy and vivacity, poetry event, with participants sharing unified Ideabiella, noted special attention was ration and understanding to designers and practicality.” communications, hospitality and press dedicated to the fair. “This promises to be throughout the world, developing customized services. “We are aware of the fact that the event of the year for the entire industry,” products and offering rich, accessible we shall have to learn to operate together he stated. A special service will include Moda In Fashion Trend Presentation archives of past collections, he stated. as a system of companies. The coming personalized shuttle transportation to and for Fall/Winter 2006/2007 New textile stories and themes from Italy Milano Unica goes precisely in that from airports and around the city. “mix richness and sobriety, delicacy and Immediately following the Milano direction,” stated Paolo Zegna, president, vivacity in the same fabric,” Uslenghi Unica press conference, the new Sistema Moda Italia and co-ceo, Milano Unica Press Conference noted. Fall/Winter 2006/2007 Moda In fabric Ermenegildo Zegna. Pier Luigi Loro Piana will present Headliners this season will be wool, silk trends will be presented by Angelo The event will feature the very best a press conference on the new and cotton yarns, often combined in Uslenghi, the renowned trend forecaster, “Made in Italy “has to offer, in an Milano Unica trade event at the unusual blends “to emphasize creativity, at the Rainbow Room, 30 Rockefeller atmosphere that is truly Italian. The show Rainbow Room, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, practicality and performance” through Plaza, New York City, on July 12, 2005 at will feature over 20,000 visitors and 600 New York City, on July 12, 2005 at 9 a.m. use of man-made fibers and high-tech 9:30 a.m. Attendees must RSVP to the exhibitors. “We are willing and ready to Attendees must RSVP to the Italian finishing. Eye-catching, color-enriched Italian Trade Commission by July 6, continue to invest in innovation, creativity Trade Commission by July 6, 2005, at solids will be “so intense and bright they 2005, at 212-848-0306. and service, and in developing a new 212-848-0313. appear lacquered.” type of business structure with our

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Esse Elle Tessile Fiorentina Seterie Argenti A Laboratory for Design: Designers Sing Praises of Italian Fabrics U.S. designers agree that when they want the finest David Wolfe, creative director, The Doneger Group. “They “Italian textiles are made of the finest quality yarns fabrics in the world, they turn to Italy. have the mystique of art and history behind them. available. They produce creative and inventive fabrics “Italian fabrics reflect the passion and history of the Italians have delivered the goods decade after decade in that are hard to find elsewhere. country and its people,” observed Donna Karan. terms of creativity, so whatever they do becomes a trend. “Italian textile designers pride themselves on being “Consumers know the difference — they appreciate the avant-garde. They don't limit their creativity. They are quality, function and creativity.” surrounded by art and beauty, and it comes naturally Italian fabrics are the best because they are created by to them.” artisans, affirmed Ralph Rucci, who develops “perfectly Italian culture lends itself to beautiful textiles, agreed finished” luxury fabrics in Italy. “I have nothing but good Cynthia Steffe. “The Italians take great pride in their things to say about them. They create truly extraordinary workmanship as artisans, and this shows in the quality fabrics and have had generation after generation of of the fabrics.” improving and polishing what their ancestors built.” Italian mills often start trends other fabric makers Biella is home to “the greatest mills on the planet”, Rucci around the world then follow, observed Rebecca Taylor. asserted. “Since they approach making textiles in an ”Many of the Italian mills we work with are family-run artisan manner, it is near perfection. It is not made just businesses. They take great pride in their heritage and for consumption, but for the artistry and emotion.” continue to evolve their collections to keep the fabric new Dana Buchman stressed she has enjoyed a close Tessile Fiorentina and not out-dated.” relationship with Italian mills for almost the entire life of The mills are “extremely cooperative and willing to her label. “It’s almost like they’re reinventing themselves. experiment with different colors, weave techniques, They’re creating product that the rest of the world can’t and finishing treatments,” Taylor said. “Italian textile knock off. Their creativity has never been stronger. designers set the trends everyone else follows.” “They’re in a frenzy of experimenting: They’re printing Italian textiles are synonymous with style and luxury, on tweeds and knits and even appliquéing on fabrics, like said Wolfgang Joop, whose line Wunderkind uses fabrics they’re stretching themselves to the limit! The Italian exclusively from Italy. “Italian textiles are high in quality textile mills are just brilliant.” and have a dedication to traditional techniques and new, Fine textiles are an Italian heritage, observed designer visionary developments and experiments.” Joseph Abboud. “It is in their blood, their culture.” The The emphasis on family businesses in Italy resulted in romance in Italian textiles puts them “a cut above the long-lasting mills with reputations for quality, said Bryan rest of the world. Bradley of Tuleh. “Italian fabrics transcended anything that was there “I’m thinking of tradition, but also a family’s pride in Marini & Cecconi before. Their techniques and finishings are extraordinary. its own history.” They capture their landscape in their fabrics. You can They are the laboratory of textiles and design and The J. Mendel company has relied on Italian textiles read their culture in their cloth.” Italian textiles enable created the textile industry.” for two generations, reported Gilles Mendel, designer. consumers across the globe “to actually wear a piece of Consumers expect Italian fabrics to “look and feel “We source the finest silk, cashmere and lace from Italy!” he added. beautiful and luxurious,” noted Nanette Lepore, who has Italy,” utilizing “the most exclusive and prestigious “The world absolutely loves Italian textiles,” agreed used Italian textiles since her company’s inception. mills.” Prato Expo to Offer “Italian Textile Excellence” Prato Expo, the international fair of the Prato textile specialized meeting place and observatory for new patterns inspired by nature and abstract colors. Discrete district, will promote “Italian Textile Excellence,” fashion trends,” he added. tweeds will be associated with floral patterns and September 15-17, 2005, in the Fortezza da Basso in New Fall/Winter 2006/2007 trends for Prato Expo traditional color wovens from the artist’s palette for a Florence. include fine fibers, unique patterns and weaves and very masculine style, she noted. Proportion is key, with The 54th edition of Prato Expo will feature around 130 innovative finishes. “It is important to be innovative and graphic, oversized patterns, huge herringbones and companies from the district, as well as firms from other creative, surprising, always in search of perfection. Italian houndstooths. Italian districts, displaying their collections for textiles are moving in this direction,” added Marini. Fall/Winter 2006/2007. “The Fall/Winter 2006/2007 season heralds the Prato Expo Offers Preview for Fall/Winter 2006 “Prato Expo is an expression of our own district. It’s comeback of dressing up and brings elaborate and A special presentation on Prato Expo trends will be very personalized. It puts an emphasis on our products decorative textiles. Nothing seems simple. Everything is presented by renowned art director and publisher Li as it explains our background — of 1,000 years of our exquisitely desirable. A sense of play is important, Edelkoort in the Radio City Suite, the Rainbow Room, history — of our refined research and experience,” said especially as seen in tiny jackets and large, sculptural 30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York City, on July 12, 2005 Riccardo Marini, president, Prato Trade and vice skirts and other combinations,” said Li Edelkoort, trend at 11 a.m. Attendees must RSVP to the Italian Trade president, Sistema Moda Italia (SMI). consultant, Prato Expo. Commission by July 6, 2005, at 212-848- 0328. “Prato Expo is a specialized event providing a An arts-and-crafts atmosphere will bring decorative

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Picchi Esse Elle Tessile Fiorentina Italy’s Districts Uphold Tradition of Beauty continued from page 2 wool, with beautiful solids and prints for coordinating,” The textile industry of Prato expects positive conditions inspired by Russian czars and folkloric decorations. added Curti. Silks will feature new finishes. “We believe for growth in 2005, building on gains made in 2004, Fabrics offer comfort, but are touched with precious very strongly in our products and try very hard to present said a representative of the Industrial Association luxurious materials like metals, embroideries, fancy yarn something new and different,” Curti concluded. of Prato. effects and floral wallpaper motifs. Precious fibers like The collection from Marioboselli will include fabrics “For Fall/Winter 2006/2007 we are developing more alpaca, angora, mohair and cashmere create easy, soft, from hemstitched woolen gauze to space dyed yarns in complex processes that are difficult to duplicate. Italian and textured fabric surfaces. colors like soft mineral tones to intense and noble products are differentiated with finishes and vintage Picchi, a third generation company, emphasizes yarn reds, explained Frederico Boselli, president and general effects that give added value to our products,” said dyes in woolen blends for winter and linen blends for manager, Marioboselli. Riccardo Marini, president, Marini & Cecconi. summer, with special emphasis on novelties. The company Weaves, new designs in jacquards, blends of wool is one of a few vertical operations in Prato, with all and cotton and mixes of fibers for refined casual looks in production in house. Its natural fabrics are known for PRATO winter fabrics will be important, he noted. Steel yarn their high technological performance, said Fred Rottman, For nearly a millennium, Prato has been renowned for embellishments will give more structure to fabrics. Key executive vice president, Picchi Mills. its woolens, yarns and textile machinery. colors will have a natural feeling in earthtones Its new collection features fabrics with international Set along the Bisenzio River, Prato’s calcium rich and greens. themes. “Italy is looked to for its creativity, its continual waters are ideal for scouring, cleaning and dyeing. With Linea Tessile Italiana will focus on wool and silk, as research and development of novelties, and cutting edge 45,000 employees in 8,100 companies, the textile district well as cotton velvet and satin, with jacquards, prints design and finishing. of Prato is the largest in Italy, producing fabrics from and embroidery, it stated. Tweed remains important “Bottom line is creativity, service and relationships both natural and manmade fibers. and is used as for prints and embroidery. Dyed wools with customers. That is what gives integrity to a product,” Although specialized in woolens, the Prato district’s are finished with délavé effects. Colors are opaque he said. textile industry is constantly developing new technologies and dusty. Tessile Fiorentina developed its palette on colors for processing raw materials into high fashion fabrics “The only way to compete with Asia is by developing reminiscent of nature, with brownish, burnt and reddish made worldwide. new technologies and the continuous development casts. Shades of purple, green and blues work with Sales in Prato in 2004 totaled about 4.7 million euros, of new ideas,” said Paolo Mascii, president and export black, noted Deborah Vincenti, export manager, Tessile with the district selling about 1.1 million euros in apparel manager, Esse Elle. Esse Elle will introduce natural, fall Fiorentina. with about 566 million exported. colors like browns, oranges, and grayish greens. “We are very focused on faux furs for trims and Of all the fabrics Prato produced in 2004, woolen Weaving effects will be more complex and boiled wool garments that recall the animal world. We’ve also added fabrics were almost 35 percent; linen, cotton and blended will appear in fabrics like alpaca and mohair. Key fibers fabrics like cotton, bright velvets and materials suitable fabrics were 22 percent; worsted fabrics almost 16 will be alpaca, wool, mohair and cashmere, with patterns for outdoors, but with style.” Fancy fabrics were developed percent; stretch fabrics 5.5 percent; knitted fabrics 7.6 including florals, printed and geometric jacquards in weights for a total look, she reported. percent; silk, viscose and acetate fabrics 10.5 percent and wools coated with gold and silver. Fabrics will be in wool and wool blends, with variations and other fabrics produced were over 3 percent. The collection from Lanificio Roberto Drighi was in color and thickness offering comfort and softness.

The following Italian textile companies will exhibit their Fall/Winter 2006/2007 Pre-Collections at European Preview. Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion, Halls A & B, 125-135 West 18th Street, New York, NY July 13-14, 2005

1. Alfa-Fi 19. Giovanni Magni / Lineaemme 38. Migotex 57. Taiana Virgilio 2. Angelo Vasino 20. Gruppocinque 39. Miroglio 58. TBM 3. Bel & Co. 21. Guest 40. Nencini 59. Teseo Tessitura Serica di Olmeda 4. Bisentino 22. Inseta 41. Nova Fides 60. Tessilcompany 5. Cadica 23. Italdenim 42. Nuovo Ri-Vera 61. Tessile Fiorentina 6. Campore Broglia Quintino 24. Larusmiani 43. Olmetex 62. Tessilgodi Di Broglia Diego & Co. 25. Limonta 44. Picchi 63. Tessilidea 7. Caverni & Gramigni 26. Linea Esse Tessuti 45. Piero Tonella 64. Tessilstrona 8. Cecchi Lido & Figli 27. Linea Tessile Italiana 46. Pizval 65. Texmoda Tessuti 9. Ciatti & Baroncelli 28. Luigi Boggio Casero 47. R. Allegri e F.lli 66. Torello Viera 10. Cobra 29. Manifattura Pratese Lane Pettinate 48. Rafanelli 67. Ugo Pacini & Co. 11. Compagnia Tessile 30. Manteco 49. Reca Group 68. Ultra 12. Cuccirelli 31. Mapel 50. Rexlane 13. Di Mazzone 32. Marini & Cecconi 51. Roberto Drighi 14. Efilan 33. Mario Bellucci 52. Rosati 15. Esse Elle 34. Marioboselli Jersey 53. Serica Della Marca 16. Europ Marchini 35. Menchi Tessuti 54. Set Società Europea Tessile 17. Fedora 36. Michele Solbiati 55. Seterie Argenti 18. Giemme 37. Microtex Cottonclub 56. T.J.S.S.

4 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 17 WWD.COM Pitti Filati Preview Competition Fuels Innovation at Italian Mills

By Stephanie Epiro ly from knitwear manufacturing in China, Turkey and India,’’ said Stefano Borsini, president of Igea. “They have become aggressive and, at the same time, bettered the MILAN — Italian yarn manufacturers remain wary of signs of the dollar’s recovery, while quality of their product. Before it was only low quality; now they are capable of creat- fighting off stronger international competition in the lead-up to the 57th edition of the Pitti ing a low-to-medium quality product.” Filati yarn fair. This year’s show will run July 6-8 at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The advancements of outside markets have pushed Italian yarn manufacturers to The latest exchange rate for one euro is $1.21, compared with $1.36 in 2004. The develop faster lead times and produce yarns that fill in gaps in the market in which the depressed rate sparked a drastic downturn in yarn manufacturers’ sales. competition hasn’t yet been able to succeed. “The dollar has flipped from $1.20 to $1.25 to $1.23 and back again to $1.20 in the past Lanerossi, a yarn company owned by the Marzotto Group and Verzoletto Group, has week,’’ said Giacomo Festa Bianchet, chief executive officer of Loro Festa. “I hope it stays reorganized to include more product in its portfolio. The company renamed itself where it is, but I have no idea what is going to happen, and I’m not guessing where it will Filivivi and has added two lines to its existing classic line Lanerossi to offer customers end up.” new luxury, fantasy and technological yarns. The company has developed a classic To most industry players, the up-and-down exchange rate isn’t the market’s major wool yarn that can be washed at 40 degrees, in addition to a wool, alpaca and acrylic challenge. Instead, executives here have noted that Italy’s biggest competitors have mix sport yarn that the company said won’t lose its color with age. successfully evolved their cheaper, lower-quality product. “This is our response to the market, so we can offer the whole panorama of yarns,” said “The dollar is giving us a little bit of hope, but business in general is suffering great- Continued on page 19

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When you are looking for quality, ethics and creativity in what you wear, there is only one road to take.

Loro Festa will introduce a new product line, Woollen, at this year’s show.

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MADE IN ITALY

A look at some of the yarns Zegna Baruffa will be showing. 18 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005

Pitti Filati Preview

Some of Zegna Baruffa’s show offerings.

Sneak Peek at Filati Exhibitors at the Pitti Filati show, scheduled for July 6-8 at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, are expanding their product offerings and striving to provide faster service in an effort to retain business. Here are some of the new offerings exhibitors will feature.

Igea’s metallic (above), mohair (below left) and bouclé yarns (below right).

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ZEGNA BARUFFA LANE BORGOSESIA SPA – BIELLA, NEW YORK, MONACO, PARIGI, TOKYO, SHANGHAI, HONG KONG WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 19 WWD.COM Competition Fuels Innovation at Italian Mills

Continued from page 17 More Eugenio Piscopo, product manag- offerings er of Filivivi. “We have also from Zegna upped our service and cut our Baruffa. lead times to one week with stock service product, and increased our capacity 15 million kilos annually.” Lanerossi is not the only one spinning something new. Loro Festa will present Woollen, a card- ed line of natural fiber-based yarns including angora, Donegal, wool and cashmere mixes in intense mélanges, and solid hues of natu- rals, browns and burnt reds. “You cannot find these sorts of yarns in China,” said Festa Bianchet of Loro Festa. “I started doing them custom-made and they became so popular I decided to make them part of our collection.” Bianchet added that the com- pany had done slightly better in the first two quarters of 2005 com- AmatoStudio pared with the same period in 2004. “It’s been very unpredictable and the second part of the year remains completely open,” he said. Luxury yarn producer Zegna Baruffa is approaching the Chinese market in another way. In the past year, the company has opened stock service factories in Shanghai and Hong Kong. Mark- eting manager Mila Zegna Baruffa said the additions “were a big chal- lenge for us.” At Pitti Filati, the company will show voluminous, ultralight wool-polyamide mix yarns. Added texture includes micro-bouclé and knotted effects in mélanges such as raspberry, sky blue and grass green. Igea has also focused its collec- tion on thicker yarns with affects of tweed and bouclé, as well as a mix of natural yarns with nylon for comfort and stretch. Tra- ditional yarns like alpaca and mohair have been reinterpreted this season by using shorter hair lengths mixed with metal to give a sparkling look. Cotton yarn specialist Emil- cotoni has expanded its line to include winter-weight cottons, including a cashmere cotton mix and a fluffy cotton yarn with a wool hand. “Cotton has always been a key summer yarn, but now we are increasing its importance as a win- ter one,” said Lorenzo Struzzi, director of Emilcotoni. The compa- ny has also quickened its stock service to be capable of delivering a choice of 100 colors within 48 hours worldwide. Loro Piana has triumphed over the past year with double- digit growth for the first two quarters of 2005 compared with the same period last year. Luciano Bandi, yarn division director of Loro Piana, attrib- HIGH QUALITY QUICK RESPONSE uted the figures to new American customers searching for higher- quality cashmere yarns. At Pitti Filati, the company will present some fantasy hairy cashmere yarns that look like they have been spray-painted with color. In addition, Loro +39.0721.784000 - CARIAGGI.IT Piana has perfected a very light- weight cashmere yarn that, when knitted, can produce a sweater that feels like a shawl. 20 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM Armani Exchange’s Brand Plan

By Rusty Williamson Images from A|X Armani’s DALLAS — A/X Armani Exchange, the licensed retail chain that offers the style of Giorgio summer advertising campaign. Armani at lower prices, is gearing up for a multiyear new store rollout. Harlan Bratcher, president of New York-based A/X Armani Exchange, said in an inter- view that the goal is to capture young urban shoppers with sexy fashions, sleek shops and the allure of the Armani brand. “Our target customer is contemporary, focused, modern and fast,” Bratcher said as he prepared to open stores in Austin and San Antonio, Tex., his hometown. “The A/X Armani Exchange customer is not a traditional customer. We’re going for the 18- to-28- year-old shopper who is young, urban and sexy. She goes out at night to clubs and is very social. Music culture is important to her. But she also wears our brand to work, as well. It’s part of her lifestyle.” The company, which has 94 stores, intends to focus on the Sunbelt, although units in Palo Alto, Calif., Chicago and New York are also planned for spring 2006. “We’re enjoying great success with our stores in Dallas and Houston,’’ Bratcher said. “There are plenty of customers and plenty of business to be done with more stores. Plus, our target audience is a part of the populations of San Antonio and Austin, both of which are young and cosmopolitan towns. Potentially, we can look at El Paso, New Orleans and Oklahoma City. And we’re also very strong on the West Coast.’’ Asia, especially China, and Australia are also components of A/X Armani Exchange’s growth plans. Bratcher views them as relatively untapped by competitors. The company will have 97 stores worldwide by the end of this year, including 57 in the U.S., he said. The strategy is driven partly by statistics showing there are more than 40 million U.S. consumers aged 15 to 24, a group with annual purchasing power of $350 billion, according to MarketResearch.com and Simmons Market Research Bureau. The demographic in- cludes students and young professionals who are closely influenced by music, fashion and culture, and who have a strong passion for brands. Other brands staking a claim on youth and the twentysomething crowd range from more streamlined and sophisticated labels such as CKCalvin Klein, Marciano, Guess, Benetton, Club Monaco, Sisley and Diesel to urban hip-hop lines Baby Phat, JLo and other celebrity labels. A/X Armani Exchange introduced a new store concept two years ago that reflects Giorgio Armani’s signature style, with soft, natural colors such as cool gray and beige; warm, ambient lights; gray bleached wood floors; lots of texture, including aluminum walls, and advertising campaign images in light-box billboards behind cash registers to reflect the seasonal trends. The stores average about 3,500 square feet and are in malls as well as freestanding, depending on market demographics. Three to five new units per year are planned during the next few years. Upbeat dance and club music will play throughout the stores. “It’s an edgy look and approach, but still relates to the A/X Armani Exchange collec- tion,’’ Bratcher said. “Flexibility is key.” He declined to release sales figures for the privately held company, but said the chain’s 5,411-square-foot New York flagship is the top-volume unit. The brand is not sold at wholesale. Women generate 45 percent of sales at A/X Armani Exchange. Fashion is masterminded by Armani, who has major creative control of every aspect. “The beauty of A/X Armani Exchange is that Mr. Armani is clearly behind it, and the brand reflects his vision and sensibilities,’’ Bratcher said. “Even though we’re a licensee, Mr. Armani personally approves every item in the collection and each image used in mar- keting and advertising campaigns, including the models.” For fall, key women’s trends include a darker color palette with an emphasis on glam- our. “There’s lots of luxe in the fall collection,’’ Bratcher said. “Styles are tailored, cleaner and more fitted. There will be more leathers, fitted jackets, military-influenced officers’ coats, high collars, pencil skirts and a few more dresses. It’s a bit more luxurious for us with the use of the fabrications and the presentation. It’s a little more grown up and so- phisticated, and speaks for our customer because it goes from day to night. We’re offering both long and short hemlines to meet lifestyle needs.” Retail prices range from $40 for a top to $295 for leather or faux fur pieces. Jeans retail from $88 to $128. The summer advertising campaign was shot by Enrique Badulescu and features tanned models lounging in and near a flower-filled swimming pool wearing a brightly colored sheer tunic, a white crocheted tank dress and distressed denim jeans. The A/X Armani Exchange business is owned by Presidio International Inc., Singapore, which pays royalties to Armani Group. The group includes licenses for apparel, acces- sories, eyewear, watches, jewelry, home and beauty under the brands Giorgio Armani, Armani Collezioni, Emporio Armani, AJ/Armani Jeans, A/X Armani Exchange, Armani Junior and Armani Casa. Armani Group’s retail network includes 60 Giorgio Armani boutiques, 11 Collezionio stores, 122 Emporio Armani stores, 94 A/X Armani Exchange units, 13 Armani Junior stores, one Giorgio Armani Accessori store and 16 Armani Casa stores in 37 countries. Russia in Final Stages of WTO Entry Talks By John Zarocostas a G8 meeting in Moscow next summer. trade officials said. The resource-rich nation of 144 million people, Senior Russian delegation sources said the country’s GENEVA — Russian Economic Trade and Development which in recent years has been reporting strong growth average tariff upon WTO entry would come down to Minister German Gref said here Friday that Moscow because of high world oil prices, is considered a lucra- about 7.2. percent from 11 percent. Duties for apparel hopes to complete its 11-year entry talks to join the tive market, particularly for luxury goods. would drop to 15 to 17.5 percent, from 20 to 25 percent. World Trade Organization by the end of 2005. Russia already has concluded market access entry In 2004, Russia was ranked the world’s 14th-largest “We are exerting every effort…to complete all negoti- talks for goods and services with many major trading exporter, with shipments up by 35 percent in value to ations by this December,” he said at a news conference. powers, such as the European Union, Japan and China, $183.2 billion. The objective is to announce that a deal has been but has yet to broker similar accords — a prerequisite Russian and Western diplomats noted that, if the op- reached during the WTO trade ministers’ summit in for a final deal — with the U.S. and other trading pow- portunity to close the deal between now and Hong Hong Kong in December and to wrap up any loose ends ers such as Brazil and Australia. Kong is missed, Moscow’s WTO bid could drift. in early 2006, senior trade diplomats said. This would The U.S. delegation told the same session that it is Such an outcome “would be very bad for the coun- make Russia a full WTO member before it is the host of close to a deal on market access for industrial goods, try,” said a senior Russian official. Control your destiny.

What to Watch 2005 Issue dates: July 5-8, 11 Close: four days prior to issue dates

Establish your brand’s positive outlook for the second half of 2005 in the issues that tell readers, category by category, what’s on the horizon for the rest of the year — insight and information industry executives will use as an essential planning tool to move their businesses forward.

What to Watch categories may include: accessories, active lifestyle, beauty, contemporary, denim, designer, financial, fine jewelry & watches, innerwear, juniors’, legwear, mainstream, outerwear, ready-to-wear, sportswear and textiles.

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 22 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM IPO Timing Should Be Right for DSW

By Vicki M. Young thing. They are consumption-driven, and will find a way to buy.” Zumiez on May 6 — the day of the IPO — opened at $20.55 in Nasdaq trading and NEW YORK — Investors have given some new IPOs the cold shoulder, but the most re- closed at $24.87. Zumiez closed Monday at $30.05. cent public offerings of relatively small retail companies appear to break the pattern. Citi Trends Inc. followed on May 18, opening at $16.95 and closing at $15.70. Hitting The positive reception generated by teen extreme sports retailer Zumiez and discount an intraday high of $19.40 on June 3, shares of Citi Trends on Monday closed at $16.60 apparel retailer Citi Trends Inc. suggests an opportune time to jump into the IPO market on the Nasdaq. for DSW Inc., the jewel of Retail Ventures, which is set to test the waters this week. Joseph Teklits of Wachovia Securities wrote in a research note on June 15 that he DSW plans to sell 14.1 million shares at $15 to $17 a share, according to filings with was initiating coverage with an “outperform” rating. “Zumiez currently operates only the Securities and Exchange Commission. It would use the proceeds to repay $190 146 stores in 18 states, and many of its ‘teen retail’ peers have expanded to 600-plus million owed to parent Retail Ventures, and for other general corporate purposes. stores,’’ he wrote. “Zumiez will likely be one of only a handful of retailers that could Schottenstein Stores Corp. controls 59.4 percent of Retail Ventures, which also op- post over 20 percent square-foot growth annually for the foreseeable future.” erates Value City Department Stores and Teklits wrote that Zumiez stores offer a Filene’s Basement stores. The Schottenstein unique mix of branded and private label ac- family also owns 17 percent of American tion sports apparel and hard goods such as Eagle Outfitters as well as other retail and skateboards and accessories, and classified real estate-related interests. Zumiez as a “true lifestyle retail concept.” After the IPO, the Schottensteins would Piper Jaffray Co. analyst Jeffrey still control DSW through Retail Ventures, Klinefelter rated Citi Trends “outperform” which would hold 94 percent of the voting in a June 27 research note. He said the re- power of the footwear retailer. In addition, tailer “primarily targets the African- Stephen Feinberg of Cerberus Capital American demographic, which is poised Management owns about 20 percent of for significant increase in spending power, Retail Ventures, and Dimension Fund from $585 billion in 2000 to $965 billion in Advisors Inc. owns a 6.7 percent stake. 2009,” according to a University of Georgia There has been strong interest in the study. He also pointed out that urban DSW public offering, said an institutional brands tend to grow “significantly faster” investor who plans to buy shares of the than the overall apparel industry. footwear retailer once it goes to market. Citi Trends operates 214 stores in the “Citi Trends and Zumiez have done very Southeast, and management believes it well,’’ said James Rice, analyst at could grow to 735 stores, which Klinefelter Susquehanna Financial Group. “This is a good said would represent a growth potential of time to do a retail IPO….DSW should do well, 343 percent. “The company has significant too, because it has a good story to tell. The opportunity to grow in demographically fa- numbers are looking good, and there is an ex- Citi Trends operates 214 stores in the Southeast, and management believes it could grow to vorable markets including Miami, Dallas, pectation of comps growth and profitability.” 735 stores. Philadelphia, Chicago and Detroit,” Next up is the active sports and teen ap- Klinefelter noted. parel brand Volcom Inc. The company said in an SEC regulatory filing last week that Zumiez and Citi Trends are in contrast to IPOs outside of the retail sector. shares of Volcom are expected to be priced at $15 to $17 a share. The Costa Mesa, A few have lost some opening-day luster in “after-market” performance. High-pro- Calif.-based firm said it would issue about 4.2 million shares and hopes to raise as file IPO DreamWorks went public October 2004 at $28 a share. Investors quickly bid much as $91.4 million. up the price to $39 on the first day of trading. The stock climbed as high as $41 a And, of course, there is the anticipated IPO of J. Crew in 2006. Still, the firms that share, but now trades below its IPO price. have the advantage are the early movers, those which have recently gone to market or The IPO for investment bank Lazard Ltd. in May raised $855 million. It opened at plan to soon. $25 a share on May 5, but since then has never traded past its opening price. Flower To be sure, as investment banker Peter Solomon of the firm that bears his name delivery service FTD Group Inc. shares a similar history, opening on Feb. 9 at $13.90, pointed out, the “retail IPOs so far are of relatively small companies.” but since then trading below its IPO price. Both are on the New York Stock Exchange. Yet retail as a whole is doing better than most other sectors, with consumers still As for some firms hoping to go to market, several have been pulled as the heat spending despite rising gas prices. from the summer doldrums seem to have chilled the IPO market. Paper producer “We’re seeing something peculiar,’’ said Robin Lewis, chief executive officer of Boise Cascade Co., Jazz Semiconductor, and mattress maker Simmons Co. have elect- Robin Lewis Inc., a consulting firm. “Consumers are not denying themselves any- ed to not to pursue a public offering. Burlington Coat Shares Up as Firm Explores Options Doneger and Lewis Affiliate NEW YORK — Shares of Burlington Coat Factory Warehouse Corp. jumped 16.54 percent Monday on the NEW YORK — The Doneger Group and Robin Lewis are disclosure that it has hired Goldman Sachs & Co. as financial adviser to explore “strategic alternatives.” teaming up to work on projects and share clients. The Burlington board said the retailer is exploring options to “enhance shareholder value.” Firms Doneger is a fashion merchandising and retail consulting that explore strategic alternatives typically are considering a sale of the company. However, the board company and buying office, while Robin Lewis Inc. specializes said that “no decision has been made” to engage in a transaction and that there can be no assurance in forecasting growth opportunities and strategic planning for that a deal will occur. retail and consumer products firms. Lewis, who also publishes Burlington shares closed at $42 on Monday, up $5.98, in trading on the New York Stock Exchange. The Robin Reports, will operate out of Doneger’s offices at 463 Monroe Milstein, chairman, president and chief executive officer, did not return calls seeking comment. Seventh Avenue. The Burlington, N.J.-based retailer operates 362 stores in 42 states. Nameplates under its umbrella “I have always admired Robin Lewis for his big picture, include Burlington Coat Factory, Baby Depot, MJM Designer Shoes and Cohoes Fashions. strategic and long-term planning capabilities, particularly his as- Speculation about a possible sale picked up earlier this month based on information from a venture tute analysis of the brand positioning issue that is so relevant capital firm, according to a financial source, who asked not to be identified. As to whether the buyer might be strategic or financial, an analyst at a New York firm, who request- ed anonymity, said the likely candidate is a financial player. We see a great sharing of skill “A year ago we were told that a [strategic buyer] was looking at the retailer,’’ the analyst said. “But “ now, with all the money out there and the recent deals that are being done by the private equity firms, bases. we believe that Burlington could go to a financial player.” ” — Robin Lewis Burlington said on June 2 that net sales from continuing operations for the fourth quarter ended May 28, rose 11.6 percent to $757 million compared with $678.1 million for the same year-ago period. today. We are confident that our relationship with Robin will cre- Same-store sales for the quarter gained 7.9 percent. ate value-added opportunities for our clients,” said Abbey —V.M.Y. Doneger, president of Doneger Group. Clients of Doneger will have access to presentations on busi- ness topics by Lewis, who delivers speeches at corporate meet- ings and seminars. Also, Lewis will be contributing to Doneger’s THE BIG BAD WOLF: Calvin Klein Inc. helped monthly newsletter, Business Update, though he is not becoming Robert Wilson sell and show off 200 of his latest an employee of Doneger. drawings, “Les Fables de La Fontaine,” at “We see a great sharing of skill bases,” Lewis said. Fashion Scoop Thursday’s preview benefit sale at the Paula Doneger and Lewis will be working with the Shanghai Cooper Gallery. While graciously inscribing the Mart in China and will be planning a seminar there for colorful framed pieces for buyers, the prolific artist said he would often sketch one first thing in the morning. “It was a Chinese textile and apparel executives. The Shanghai Mart is way of getting myself together and not having to talk to anyone.” operated by the Dallas Mart. Doneger took part in a similar But like Francisco Costa and Ross Bleckner, Wilson was hard-pressed to pick a favorite. “They’re like children. You seminar in Shanghai in March. can’t say anything in front of them or they get jealous,” Wilson said. “The Chinese are trying to learn more about our market Bleckner responded to the works’ childlike colors. “His work is usually a little darker.” and how to do more business with manufacturers and retail- That might explain why the wolf illustrations were the first to go. “Of course,” Bleckner chuckled when informed of ers,” Lewis said. that. “It’s New York. Everyone loves black, still.” — David Moin WWD The Magazine

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For more information on advertising in this special publication, please contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589. 24 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 WWD.COM Pronovias Struts Its Stuff for 2006 Motu Tané Offering By Barbara Barker Elie Saab BARCELONA — Pronovias, the world’s largest bridal manu- Resort All Year Long facturer, knows how to put on a show and U.S. retailers re- sponded — snapping up innovative gowns and body-con- By Marc Karimzadeh scious silhouettes in soft, tissue-thin fabrics and feathers. “I’m trying out feathers for the first time,” said Mindy NEW YORK — It’s easy to get carried away imagining a year- Woon, bridal manager at Bergdorf Goodman. “Our brides round resort lifestyle. Motu Tané, a collection started by beauty are a little more sophisticated — they’re looking for some- guru François Nars and fashion designer Sophie Théallet, aims thing different like beaded lace and novelty fabrics.” to make that dream a reality, even if just a fashion one. Elena Grapsas of Ultimate Bride in Chicago, said she was Motu Tané, which launches at retail in mid-October, offers shopping for couture gowns “with a difference, something lightweight and floaty looks that would work equally well for a nobody else has.” night out in New York or a Caribbean beach. Motu Tané takes an Pronovias invited more than 1,500 specialty retailers and unusual approach: rather than offer seasonal collections, the duo journalists from 45 countries to its hometown on June 17-18 has decided to concentrate on resort and will offer it year-round. for a preview of 2006. The guest list, mainly customers from “The idea of doing resort exclusively offered a pretty wide range the multinational’s global network, included 500 retailers — of possibilities,” Nars said. “People travel all year round, so it’s not 65 from the U.S. — and major buying groups from Germany, just limited to winter. The collection will be sold the entire year.” Italy and the U.K., organizers said. Nars came up with the concept in Tahiti, where he spends a “Valentino was not a disappointment; he had four pieces lot of time each year. to die for,” said Mara Urshel, president of I. Kleinfeld, the “I am working on a book on Tahiti, so I was really frustrated famed Brooklyn retailer that is to move in July to a 35,000- with the fact that I couldn’t find any great fabrics to photo- square-foot Manhattan store with 52 fitting rooms. graph,” Nars recalled. “I called Sophie and asked her if she Key bridal trends are “romance, fantasy, glamour and de- could remake some vintage prints. She re-created the tail,’’ Urshel said. “Strapless is still number one, and for the prints…and that’s when we started talking about creating a col- American market, white and ivory, that’s it.” Destination lection and a lifestyle only for resort.” weddings are “still big” and, in general, weddings are alive Théallet, who holds the title of chief creative officer, worked and well, “more so then ever,” she added. with Azzedine Alaïa for 10 years and with Jean Paul Gaultier for Valentino’s premier collection for Pronovias was the big three years before teaming up with Nars Cosmetics, for which draw for retailers who could afford it. Depending on the she designed cosmetics bags, uniforms and T-shirts. style, a Valentino gown might sell for as much as $25,000, sources said. Nars also recruited Jennifer Lister, who left her post as chief ex- In addition, the bridal group includes: Emanuel Ungaro; Elie Saab; Badgley Mischka; resident de- ecutive officer of Nars Cosmetics Inc. for the project, which has no signer and creative director Manuel Mota, whose signature line sells in the U.S. exclusively to relation to the cosmetics firm. Nars sold his cosmetics company to Bergdorf ’s, and lesser-known Spanish designers Hannibal Laguna and Pronovias’ newcomer, Lorenzo Shiseido in 2000. Caprile (one of Crown Princess Letizia’s favorites for special royal occasions). “When Sophie and François had this brilliant idea to create a The event kicked off with an evening runway show at the Pabellón Italiano in the Barcelona fair- new brand, I couldn’t imagine a better move,” said Lister, who grounds. Valentino’s minicollection of eight gowns opened the catwalk presentation with Empire and serves as Motu Tané’s president and ceo. dropped-waist styles, opulent embroideries and a cascade of mini rosettes. Saab sent out what a veter- They decided to name the collection after Nars’ Bora Bora is- an buyer described as “an orgy of chiffon, tulle and Chantilly lace.” Ungaro showed snug torsos with land, which also serves as its main inspiration. The 80-piece col- poufy tulle skirts, Swan Lake feathers and oversized confectionary hats, and Badgley Mischka opted for lection includes Polynesian-print silk chiffon dresses with de- second-skin gowns with pearl and rhinestone trims and more feathers. tails such as raffia halters and shell necklines, crinkle chiffon The front row included Alberto Palatchi, Pronovias founder and chief executive officer; Ungaro and Victorian-inspired blouses, satin Empire-waisted dresses with the 72-year-old designer’s wife, Laura Fanfani; Nati Abascal (the Duchess of Feria) in all-white sepa- gathered sleeves and luxe jersey printed T-shirts. rates by Valentino, and designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka. French native Théallet takes an artisanal approach to her de- Pronovias makes 480,000 gowns sign, experimenting with color combinations, hand-dying original Badgley A a year, which the 41-year-old firm fabrics in her kitchen and applying Ti Fai Fai, a Polynesian Mischka Valentino distributes through 3,500 sales patchwork technique traditionally used for bed linens. “I try to beaded points in about 60 countries, in- mix the artisanal feeling of the island with what I learned in cou- gown with cluding 250 doors in the U.S., 115 ture,” she said. dropped company-owned and franchised The line targets upscale department stores and specialty bou- waist. stores in Spain and three each in tiques, with wholesale prices such as $45 for a scarf, $127 for France and Greece. light cotton shorts and $1,800 for a ruffled crinkle chiffon and Sales revenues for 2004 to- silk wrap dress. taled $131 million, Palatchi said, Lister said by the end of this year, the company is targeting to with fiscal 2005 expected to be in about 35 doors as well as wholesale volume of up to reach $146 million. $700,000. The next day, buyers got down to As for the future, Nars and Théallet business at Barcelona’s Palacio de both hope to expand the resort concept Congresos de Cataluña, where into other categories. Pronovias sent out its in-house “For me, it’s a way of living, it’s an bridal line of more than 170 gowns essence of Polynesia,” Théallet said. priced from $280 to $3,000. “You can do everything. You can do Cocktail and mother-of-the-bride clothes, then accessories, then acces- collections featured beaded mesh sories for the home.” and lace dresses with matching jack- For now, the next extension is a ets and a few bold — and mature — denim collection, which should be ready prints in colors such as ruby, teal, by spring 2006, Nars said. “Sophie and I lemon, pistachio and creamy mint. love the idea of mixing the silk tops with One of the best was a knee-hovering jeans,” he said. beige lace suit with hem ruffle, for $480. Prices ranged from $80 for a Looks from straightforward series of red crepe Motu Tané. dresses to $930. Palatchi said sales jumped 25 percent compared with last year, but declined to reveal specific figures. Franchised Shops Have Big Role in Pronovias’ Future MADRID — Pronovias’ founder and chief executive, Alberto Palatchi said its fastest-growing markets are the U.K., Palatchi, told WWD that the Barcelona-based bridal group and “the U.S. is becoming very important.” plans an aggressive rollout of franchised shops beginning Referring to Pronovias’ stable of designer labels, next year. including Valentino and Emanuel Ungaro, he said: “We The goal is 300 stores around the world within 10 years. have the best [creative] minds in the world, and this has “We’ll establish the franchises through our own cus- changed my company. We are in a new era. We are cre- tomers [Pronovias has 3,500 points of sale worldwide],” ating an affordable market for designer bridal dresses, he said in an interview. from $9,000 to $25,000.” “There is a great demand for Pronovias’ franchises world- In addition, the group will unveil a 300,000-square- wide,” he said. “Currently, we’re opening distribution channels foot distribution center skirting the Barcelona airport in in the Mideast and Australia, for example. The objective is a about three months, Palatchi said. major distribution presence in every country in the world.” — B.B. WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 25 WWD.COM Von Habsburg on Presidents, Monarchs, Dictators WASHINGTON — For anyone who thinks of blue bloods as worn out and effete, a chat with Otto Von Habsburg smacks like the backside of a duelist’s glove. At 92, he is a dervish of optimism, energy and savvy, with a global view to make any head of state stop and take note — and he knows almost all of them. “Aristocracy is created by history. It all depends on where you take your aristoc- racy from,” says Von Habsburg, son of Emperor Charles, the last Austro-Hungarian emperor (1916-1918). Traveling with his family, Von Habsburg recently visited New PHOTO BY KYLE SAMPERTON SAMPERTON KYLE PHOTO BY York City for meetings after spending a week in Washington, where he attended a gala in his honor hosted by the Hungarian-American Coalition, met with former secretary of state Colin Powell and toured Congress. Packing the same tuxedo he wore on his last U.S. tour 25 years ago, his goal was to rally American support for a united Europe while sounding the alarm against Russian President Vladimir Putin. Von Habsburg is one of the EU’s original architects and a key supporter of EU expansion (although he is a staunch opponent of Turkey joining). His lifelong dream became a reality on May 1, 2004, when 10 central, Eastern and Mediterranean European countries became full members. His eagerness for greater unity among European nations has hit a bump of sorts, however, since France and the Netherlands last month voted down plans for a European constitution. The rejections have sent the European Union into disarray, heightened further over the last 10 days by bickering over the structure of the EU budget. Countries such as Germany and France are pushing the United Kingdom to give up some of its budget refunds in order to support newer members like Poland. But Von Habsburg remains a staunch proponent of greater unity throughout Europe and a Cassandra about Putin’s increasing political power. The European aristocrat is pro-God and anti-Russian. After all, Von Habsburg calls those who criticized Ronald Reagan’s Star Wars pro- gram “asinine,” lauding Star Wars as “the first armament program in history to led to peace and not war.” He lists Reagan, Pope John Paul II and Germany’s Helmut Kohl as “the three men whose decisions led to the downfall of communism.” On the current political scene, he’s heartened by the “tremendous revival of reli- gion,” crediting George W. Bush’s “openly religious attitude” as both a reason for his reelection and a warning to French President Jacques Chirac. “France is certainly the weather vane of Europe,” says Von Habsburg, who after World War II lived in France until 1954, when he moved to his current home near Munich in Pöcking, Germany. He lives there with his wife, Princess Regina von I met them all three — Fidel and Raul “Castro, Che Guevara. They talked all night long. After all, Castro was a very well educated person, having been trained by the Jesuits. ” — Otto Von Habsburg

Saxon Meinngen, now Archduchess Gabriela Von Habsburg. They have seven chil- dren and 23 grandchildren. His son, Gyorgy Von Habsburg, is Hungarian ambassa- dor-at-large to the EU. “There is an extraordinary revival of religion in France,” says Von Habsburg, a Catholic who points to the French presidential election, slated for 2007, in which French candidate Nicolas Sarkozy stands as Chirac’s leading opponent. Arts “I never would have thought one could dare to say in France what Sarkozy is saying — that the separation of church and state in France is wrong,” says Von Habsburg. “He points out that a state which subsidizes football clubs and refuses to do any economic fa- Otto Von Habsburg during his Washington visit. vors to religions who want to build churches is absurd.” & his Washington visit. Von Habsburg reserves his strongest attacks for Putin, though, and People confides a bit of Habsburg family gossip to prove his point. (Austria, as part of a series of anti-Habsburg laws, refused to let him back “Putin has the greatness of Stalin, but it is not a sure thing whether he into the country until 1961 when, as one of the earliest advocates for a united has Stalin’s stamina,” he says. On the power side of the ledger, he lists the business in- Europe and a longtime representative to the European Parliament, he agreed to re- terests of a half dozen members of Putin’s cabinet, noting, “These people can do what- nounce all claims to the Habsburg throne.) ever they want. Their power is almost unlimited. But in the last few months, for the “Aristocracy has to begin somewhere,” he says, recalling how a friend, the late first time you have the phenomenon that Russians are no longer afraid of their power. Felix Somary, took him to the Zurich-Eiger railroad station soon after the end of A nephew of mine, whose children go to the same school as Putin’s children, for the World War II when Stalin began to clamp down on Eastern Europe. Somary, an econo- first time has started to speak against Putin.” mist and Swiss banker who predicted World War II and the Depression, pointed to a Despite his openly conservative views, part of Von Habsburg’s charisma comes trainload of unkempt passengers arriving from Central Europe. from his ability to socialize with the opposition, including revolutionaries like Che “‘Look around,’ ” Von Habsburg recalls Somary telling him. “‘These are going to be Guevara and Fidel Castro, both of whom he met soon after World War II. our overlords in the future.’’’ “I was writing an article about the Soviet Union’s Central Comitern organization Von Habsburg is pleased to say Somary was wrong, pointing instead to America’s operating from Panama City, and I wanted to see what was happening. There was a political aristocracy. “You have some political families which are playing a tremen- little nightclub on the border of Guatemala and Belize. All the members of El Legion dous role. Take the Kennedys,” he observes. del Caribe were flying in to relax,” he recalls. “I met them all three — Fidel and Raul How about the clan of the current President Bush and his father? “Too,” says Von Castro, Che Guevara. They talked all night long. After all, Castro was a very well edu- Habsburg. “It isn’t bad for a country to have people with a certain tradition, where cated person, having been trained by the Jesuits.” the father gives the son the same outlook and training.” He remains an aristocrat at heart, however, a background for which he offers no But he has cautions for the U.S. as well. “It should be a little less preaching, espe- apology. And Dr. Von Habsburg, as he likes to be called, knows a lot about the sub- cially to the Muslim world,” says Von Habsburg. ject. The Von Habsburgs, one of Europe’s oldest and most influential royal fami- He then notes the return of former royals to Bulgaria and Romania, and how many lies, provided the dukes and archdukes of Austria from 1282 on, the kings of of the other 400 members of the Von Habsburg clan have staked claims to properties Bohemia and Hungary from 1526 to 1918, the Holy Roman Emperors from 1438 to previously confiscated by the Communists. Neither he nor any of his immediate fami- 1806, the kings of Spain from 1516 to 1700 and the emperors of Austria from 1804 to ly plans to do so, he says, since in his 22-year career in the European Parliament, “I 1918. wanted to serve as a representative of all the nations which were under Soviet occu- Von Habsburg was six when his parents, Emperor Charles and Queen Zita, were pation,” he explains. forced into exile. After World War II, he turned down an offer from Spanish dictator For, in the end, Von Habsburg indicates, politics can’t be simply boiled down to Francisco Franco to assume the Spanish throne, instead acting as a friend and advis- whether a government is a monarchy or a democracy, conservative or liberal. “We all er to Juan Carlos, whom Franco in 1969 chose as his successor. Last year, the late need to concentrate not so much on the form of the government but on the content, Pope John Paul II canonized Von Habsburg’s father, Emperor Charles, making him and not insist that one nation’s way is the only way to salvation.” the first monarch in almost five centuries to achieve sainthood. — Susan Watters 26 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005

Assistant Designer Edgy, contemporary company currently seeking a talented Assistant Designer to join the team. Proficiency in Photoshop - Illustrator and a minimum of 3 years CLOSE OUTS experience requested and familiarity with all aspects of production. We Buy Men’s, Please fax resume to: (212) 246-0034 Women’s & Children’s or Email: [email protected] All Quantities Assistant WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY Woodlake We are nice people to deal with A well est’d Men’s Active & Outerwear Co. P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Excellent Oppty’s /Immediate Openings Also HBA and General Merchandise. Sales Assistant - Help coordinate sales and marketing efforts, as well as work Call Rocky 800-762-5488 w/current customers & develop new ones. Must have 3 years experience in the apparel industry. Able to travel. Admin. Assistant - for general office duties, assist in sales follow-up, some customer service and phone. Please fax resume 212-302-2189 BOOKKEEPER DESIGNER ______TO 70K Sample Fabric Dyeing NYC 5 yrs + exp 2-7 Boys/Girls Sportswear Production Manager PATTERN/SAMPLES All Fabrics / No Min Well-organized self-starting mult- Fast Growing Missy knit/woven/ Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast tasker w/min 5 years exp needed for SRI Search 212 465 8300 [email protected] sweater importer seeks hands on work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 800.NY.DYEING / 24 HR SVC small garment firm near Penn Station. professional Min. 5-7 yrs exp to Will handle a variety of record keeping 38th St East Walk To Work! Design implement all prod. w/overseas offices. and office administrative duties. MS Resp. Inc. prod. Pkgs, Issuing specs, GLAM 1BR ON PARK AVE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Word and Excel a must. Fax resume Technical Designer final grades, fit/color approvals. A Classic Beauty w/Hi Ceilings, So. and salary requirements to: Technical understanding in knits and PRODUCTIONS 212-465-1257 Attn: Controller TIBI,ayoung designer label located Lite & Vu’s, Fireplace, 1 & 1/2 Bths, in Soho, seeks a Technical Designer. the ability to communicate essential Eat-In-Kitchen & More! Top Co-Op! All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Min. 3-5 years exp. req’d. Must know req. Well Organized, strong computer See #1643 On The Web ...... $795,000 CLERICAL ASSISTANT spec development, garment construc- and math skills also a must. DeborahBee.com 212-679-1964 FASHION RESUMES Leading moderate sportswear company tion, grading, and be able to conduct Please fax resume w/sal req to 212 736- 6293 Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail located in New York City, seeks clerical fit sessions. Will work with overseas PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates assistant for sales team. The responsi- factories. Strong communication & Production Manager GILBERT CAREER RESUMES bilities of this position include: writing computer skills a must. E-mail resumes Rapidly growing vertical importer/ PRODUCTIONS (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa sales orders, order tracking for accounts, to Sara at: [email protected] manufacturer seeks a detail oriented, Full servcie shop to the trade. fashionresumes.com compiling selling reports, filing, making articulate and motivated team player Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. fashioncareercenter.com sample requests. To be considered you Graphic Artist to manage product development and 85 Mercer Street - SOHO must be highly organized, detail ori- production. Responsibilities include: 1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space. ented, able to multi task, good follow up Lingerie manufacturer has immediate daily follow-up with customers & over- skills and knowledge of Excel a MUST. opening for an expert in MAC OSX seas factories. Strong communication Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 Weoffer a great work environment Illustrator & Photoshop. Must be able skills, proficiency in Word & Excel, and www.dumann.com with opportunities for growth plus com- to create pattern repeats for screen- amin. of 5 years experience required. petitive salary and benefits. printing, and be able to develop original For Space in Garment Center Bilingual Chinese a plus. Foreign and Email resumes to: artwork and work from store-bought Domestic travel is necessary. To apply, Helmsley-Spear, Inc. [email protected] inspiration or purchased prints. Artist please fax resume with salary req’s to: 212-880-0414 will work under designer’s direction to create presentations tailored to account 212-869-8961, Attn: Human Resources Search For Space In Garment Center needs. The right applicant should be Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee creative & motivated, and have a great QUALITY CONTROL www.midcomre.com Contemporary, fashion forward retailer work ethic. SUPERVISOR Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 DESIGNER looking for the most talented designers in the Associates Degree in Art or Fashion & 2+ years related experience is prefer- Growing New Jersey domestic/import Girl’s Infant/Toddler industry. Must have seven years experience. manufacturer seeks individual to develop, Showroom PH- 2200 Ft. Full Floor DARON FASHIONS Sr. Shoe designer- red. Lingerie/sleepwear experience is a implement and maintain systems to en- Great Light- Windows on 4 Sides Expertise in high end goods and line plus. Please fax resume to: sure compliance with customer quality Character license division is development with strong background M. Fox at 212- 842-4050. EOE Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 GROUP seeking a talented & highly standards & regulations. Will also inter- Search- www.manhattanoffices.com in elegant fabrications and knows the face with other departments. Qualified Come join the fastest moving motivated Girls Designer trends in the footwear market. Must candidates will be aggressive, have good with a minimum of 5 years have manufacturing contacts worldwide. Jersey City TD $70K communication & computer skills, have Showrooms & Lofts & most exciting Children’s Sr. BEBESPORT designer- experience in Infant/Toddler Vertical Retail Mfr. Cut & Sew Knits at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Outerwear Company in the our lifestyle division is coming alive. 2 Minutes form PATH Train environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Country. We are looking for licensed apparel. We desire the best fitness/activewear [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email resume and salary req’s. to: ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 designers around. Strong background [email protected] forward thinkers to work in a Please fax or email resume in both knits and wovens. Full pack- creative & fun environment. attn: Marlene age and benefits in an exciting Los Marketing Director for established Angeles Century City environment. NYC based Fashion Accessory Co. GIRLS OUTERWEAR 212-967-8108 Fax resumes to Sally Daliege Responsibilities include: SAMPLE MAKER $$$$$ 213.362.2300. •Marketing Strategy, Planning & Tactics Sportswear Collection Runway Designer DESIGNER [email protected] [email protected] 212-947-3400 •Total Design Responsibilities •Market Research Design Assistant/Associate •Marketing Programs targeted for from creation to completion Sweater co. seeks motivated, eager to specific customers Spec Tech Prime 5th Ave, Mid 30’s learn person who is able to work inde- •Advertising Programs 5TH AVE WINDOW VIEW TECH DESIGNER ADMIN. ASST. - Production pendently to join our team. A fabulous Great opportunity! Great company! Single Furnished Office Room •Outerwear Construction growth opportunity for the right person. Reports directly to President & Creative Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks Costume Jewelry Co. seeks a motivated, Director. Requirements: 7+ yrs. relevant 212-244-2840 •Coordinating designs with organized, detail oriented individual to Must have some knowledge of forming experienced & highly organized Spec color palettes, spotting trends, creating experience. Position requires a "hands- Tech for Ladies, Mens & Kids product. overseas factories join our busy office; follow up on orders, on", analytical driven marketing pro- scheduling, pricing. Strong computer & inspiration boards, flat sketching, pre- Resp incl.: Daily communication with paring specs and communicating with fessional with excellent organizational, overseas office & factories. Runs DESIGNER ASSISTANT communication skills req’d. Full benefits. communication & computer skills, Fax resume to: 212-764-4135 overseas via e-mail. Must be efficient on fittings with the ability to translate •Work with Design staff Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator & Microsoft who has worked in an aggressive changes necessary to specifications. Admin Since 1967 Word programs. Must be organized, growth environment. An MBA from a Must possess technical knowledge, flat creating & executing line leading school preferred. Involvement development detail oriented and able to go with the sketching and be computer literate. W-I-N-S-T-O-N flow. Minimum of 1 year experience. with major department and specialty Strong follow-up and analytical skills retailers a plus. The opportunity offers Positions above require Mac APPAREL STAFFING QUEENS LOCATION along w/ Bra experience is mandatory. Email: [email protected] competitive compensation and a benefits DESIGN * SALES * MERCH package. EOE. Apply at: Knowledge of Spec/Design packages Computer Skills. Excellent Fax: (718) 418-9354, attn. Sherry Renay Experience with Wal-Mart, JCP & ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION www.MyChoiceEngine.com/Role/12223 salary & Oppty for Growth. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Kmart a plus. Designer Please fax your resume to: Fax or email resume: APPAREL JOBS Assistant Designer B Farrell (212) 842-4032. EOE 212-643-1040 1)Artists: Girls-Boys-Juniors 2)Spec Techs MENSWEAR $$$$$$ BUSINESS 3)Designers-assoc-assist. boy-girl-YG men-Jr Major Intimate Apparel Manufacturer *JEANS TD (2) $70-$90K [email protected] Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) is seeking an Assistant Designer. Ideal *Prod ’n’ Mgr Wovens Costing/Sourcing $75K candidate should be very organized, * PROD’N MGR Knits & T-Shirts $75K Sr. Technical Designer VENTURES detail oriented & a team player. *Underwear TD $55K Well est’d imptr., seeking Sr. Technical A/R Credit & Collections Responsibilities include daily commu- *SWEATER TD $55K Designer for Junior cut-n-sew. Min. 5 A leading Womens Apparel manu- Seeking an aggressive and take charge nication w/overseas office & factories [email protected] 212-947-3400 yrs. exp. is required. Responsibilities facturer is seeking existing entities individual who will be responsible for w/great follow-up skills, able to process include: excellent communication skills, Assistant Designer keeping A/R current: artwork, sampling / production pack- spec development, garment construction, for possible acquisition. You will ages, and assist Designer in all phases be responsible for sales, design & •HEAVY CHARGEBACKS Merchandisers (3) $130K++ conduct fitting and computer skills Fast paced branded and pri- •CASH APPLICATION of development, including specs and *Womens Contemp Knits (Illustrator). Please fax resume attn. merchandising. We will provide fi- color approval. Great company & full Design Director (212) 719-4903 vate label firm seeks self •GARMENT EXPERIENCE ONLY *Girls/Boys Better nancing, back office, shipping benefits! Must be computer literate. *Design Director Jr Sweaters starter who has skills with •MINIMUM 5 YEARS EXPERIENCE Knowledge of Illustrator a plus. and production support. Send References required. Please reply to: [email protected] adobe Photoshop, illustrator Please fax resume to: TD’S TD’S I NEED TD’S any inquiries in confidence to: Box#M 1049 V. Vaccaro at 212-842-4050. E.O.E. and Macromedia Freehand c/o Fairchild Publications * SWEATERS-TD Bet Bridge $50-70K 212-764-8957 or to 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl *MOVIE STAR TD $80K* * SWEATER Cut/Sew Knit Spec Tech $35-45K 10. Must have strong sketch- New York, NY 10001 NY Based L.A. Travel. Detail Tailored * WOVENS TD-Better/Bridge $60-85K [email protected] ing ablilities, be able to cost Jackets, Sportswear Pants. Web PDM [email protected] 212-947-3400 DESIGNER [email protected] 212-947-3400 garments,create line sheets, ARTIST Branded & private label Established embroidery,layouts,design Major Childrenswear Manufacturer bridge & contemporary women’s TECHNICAL DESIGNER jewelry and trims, prepare seeks a creative and talented artist for collection seeks designer. Must be Girls newborn to 4-6x dept. store line. highly effective, a team player, self OPENINGS sample garments for show- Must be proficient in Illustrator and motivated & Creative. Have a strong Phila Patmaker $$$$ APPAREL STAFFING, LTD rooms, source fabric and have previous working experience in understanding of current trends is a [email protected] 212-947-3400 ALAN WOLF related market. Fax resumes to Denise: MUST. Fax resume 212-354-0999 or www.apparelstaffing.com trims. You will join a great 212-967-8108 team with good benefits. e-mail: [email protected] Call (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 Please e mail resume to Prod’n Coord $60K Wovens, Knits, Better Sportswear Mfr greatfashionjob@ Strong Cutting Tickets, Inventory & TRIM COORDINATOR yahoo.com Spread Sheet Exp. Must have private label exp. creating [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 trim sheets, tracking trim delivery. Daily communication w/overseas. Follow-up & DESIGNER strong color sense very important, excel Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks expert. Great Benefits, oppty. for growth. designer. Must be able to work with Pls fax resume attn: SC 212-302-3872 Artist Needed patternmakers & samplemakers and Production Asst $35-40K PRODUCTION MANAGER Better Sportswear Mnfg. Strong PC Skills Sewing Operation. Babywear Co. seeks Production Artist have 3-5 years experience. Fax resume to: with minimum of 2-3 years experience. 212-391-2485 [email protected] 212-947-3400 Bathing suit & exercise type. Must be highly organized, detail VP Sourcing $150-$175K Exp’d Only! Knowledge of oriented, to assist designers in phase Wovens/Knits/Sweaters. Better Mkt stretch fabrics. Long Island of design - creating tech packs, prints, Sweater/Sourcing VP $90K repeats, embroideries and appliques. DESIGNER Production Coordinator resident only. Please fax Proficiency in illustrator a must. Jr. Sportswear Co. seeks an exp’d. team Sweater Mfr. seeks individual for com- Prod’n Mgr Sweater $65-85K resume to: (516) 579-0631 Fax to 212-695-0203 player. Great opportunity. Occasional munication & follow-up. Must speak Source, Load, Factories, Pricing email: [email protected] overseas travel req’d. Fax: 212-764-6990 Chinese/English. Call Peter: 212-840-1313 [email protected] 212-947-3400 WWD, TUESDAY, JUNE 28, 2005 27 WWD.COM

ad, which will run as single and double pages, was shot by Christophe Kutner and pictures Hermann in mid-leap. Lacoste Essential: Relaxed and Free — Brid Costello PARIS — Lacoste is going back to basics other to evoke a tennis ball. Lacoste’s sig- with its latest fragrance. nature crocodile is cut into the back of the Lacoste Essential — as the men’s scent bottle, so it can be seen from the front, Walgreen Net Rises 20.1% is called — will be introduced starting in above the scent’s name. NEW YORK — Walgreen Co. reported a August by La Chemise Lacoste’s beauty li- “The fragrance is the crocodile, and the 20.1 percent rise in third-quarter earn- cense holder, Procter & crocodile is the fra- ings — easily beating analysts’ estimates Gamble Prestige Beauté. grance,” said Finke. A — because of solid pharmacy prescrip- The product channels BEAUTY BEAT brushed aluminum cap tion sales. the relaxed chic of a tops its flacon. The national drugstore chain earned Lacoste polo shirt, said Gerd Finke, a Essential’s outer packaging also $411 million, or 40 cents a diluted share, global marketing director for prestige sports a crocodile logo and is green, the for the period ended May 31, compared products at P&G Prestige Beauté. signature color of the brand’s logo. with $342.3 million, or 33 cents, in the “We’re now at the heart and soul of the The fragrance’s juice, concocted by third quarter last year. brand and are paying tribute to its P&G Beauté’s in-house creative team in Excluding a $6.6 million gain, the com- founder, René Lacoste,” Finke said, association with International Flavors & pany said it would have earned $406.9 adding the launch opens the new “free- Fragrances, comprises top notes of tomato million, or 40 cents, against Wall Street’s dom” segment for the label. “Lacoste leaves, plus citrus, fruity and watery notes. expectations for earnings per share of 38 Essential is all about freedom, enjoyment The scent’s heart is made of black pepper cents. Comparatively, Walgreen earned and relaxation — not just specifically re- and a floral accord, including rose notes, $340.4 million, or 33 cents, in last year’s laxation and enjoyment as regards activi- inspired — according to Lacoste execu- third quarter, excluding a $3 million gain ties, but also freedom of mind.” tives — by the fact that men don’t hesitate from litigation settlements. The brand’s portfolio has been bol- to sport the brand’s polo shirts in tradi- Sales in the third quarter rose 13.1 stered by a number of launches since tionally feminine colors, like pink. percent to $10.83 billion from $9.58 bil- P&G took over the Lacoste license in Sandalwood and patchouli notes are in lion last year. An ad visual for 2001. In 2002, P&G introduced Lacoste the fragrance’s drydown. In the first nine months of the year, Lacoste Essential. Pour Homme, a scent that kicked off its P&G used its proprietary “Time- Deerfield, Ill.-based Walgreen reported a high-end “Club” segment. That was fol- Release Technology,” which allows the 20 percent increase in income to $1.23 lowed by Lacoste Pour Femme in 2003. juice to maintain its initial freshness billion, or $1.20 a share, from $1.03 bil- One year later the brand focused on more throughout the day. The wearer needs only will include vials, is to accompany the lion, or 99 cents, in the comparable year- “energetic” scents — coming out with a to rub the skin where the scent is sprayed global launch starting late August. The ago period. Sales rose 12.9 percent to signature men’s fragrance and Touch of on in order to break molecules that then U.S., however, will not get the fragrance $31.71 billion from $28.08 billion. Pink for women. release the aroma of its top notes. until the first quarter of 2006. “We had another terrific quarter with P&G executives declined to comment Essential is the first fragrance to use the The fragrance’s advertising campaign improved gross margins and higher than on forecasts. However, industry sources technology on a worldwide scale, although is meant to channel the juice’s easygoing expected prescription numbers and non- estimate Lacoste Essential could drum it has already been used in a Laura aura. Conceived by the Callegari Berville pharmacy sales,” David Bernauer, chair- up $50 million in wholesale volume in its Biagiotti scent, said Finke. Grey agency and directed by Carter man and chief executive officer, said in a first year. The Essential eau de toilette will be Smith, the television ad shows model Axel statement. Prescription sales, which rose The fragrance’s heavy glass bottle, cre- available as 75- and 125-ml. sprays that Hermann in a seaside location. He leaps 14 percent, made up 65 percent of total ated by Qu’On Se Le Dise agency, is round- will retail in the U.S. for $40 and $54, re- from mooring post to mooring post, play- sales in the third quarter. ed on one side and a curved square on the spectively. A sampling campaign, which fully avoiding incoming waves. The print —Meredith Derby

APPAREL PRO Sales/Merchandiser Leading importer of garments seeks a SALES EXECUTIVE highly motivated and aggressive indi- Global leader in apparel Better Branded & Private Label Ladies’ N.Y.L. Jeans vidual with established contacts in the Sportswear/Outerwear Co. is seeking an mens & ladies market. Co pd. medical identification products is ex- aggressive, motivated, positive thinker benefits. Fax resume to: 212-397-2202 panding & seeks motivated to join our Sales Team. Must have A newly released collection strong merchandising skills in the woven SALES MANAGER of Missy "moderate"price reps (experienced & entry- sportswear market, and a great eye for premium level) to acquire & manage fashion trends. Product development jeans with " " styling key retail & brand accounts. skills a +! Min. 3 years exp. and a proven Polo/Ralph Lauren Accessories* Embroidery Sales Rep People skills, organization, track record in better Specialty/Dept. & quality, seeks an exciting, Couture embroidery company seeks Stores req’d. Fax to: 212-358-0031 vivacious, motivated Sales an industry professional. Candidates MS Office, attn. to detail, & The Echo Design Group a dynamic multi-division accessory should be highly self motivated and eagerness to go the extra company based in NY is seeking an experienced sales/ Person with 3-5 years experi- have knowledge of the couture mar- mile for the client are req’d. ket. Please fax resume: 212-714-1915. SALES PRO WANTED merchandising executive with a proven track record of individual ence in this market. Contacts Fax or email resume to: Jr. & Missy Knit co seeks a salesperson and team success . We require an individual who can develop & 212.504.3172 w/activeDepartment contacts only. Ex- execute sales strategies, manage and work cross functionally to with the major Dept. Stores [email protected] cellent oppty for growth. Send resumes maximize performance of the brands. Experience with a li- &Chains a must. Please Fax to [email protected] censed brand is preferred for this Polo/Ralph Lauren position. or E-mail resume to CEO at: This exciting role combines the opportunity to directly sell to Sales Assistant 917-510-9609 Est’d, growing denim apparel mfr Sales Pro key customers while overseeing all aspects of the business. We seeks sales asst w/ 1-2 yrs exp in Major Off-Price Wholesaler seeks U.S. SALES MANAGER require a passionate, motivated & detail oriented individual with [email protected] assisting showroom sales executives. Seasoned Sales Pro excellent communication and presentation skills. This posi- Must know EDI & data entry. Strong w/minimum Our client, a leading importer of women’s A Division of N.Y.L. New York Laundry communication, organizational and 15 years experience and proven sportswear located in Montreal, Canada tion requires appropriate retail, planning & computer skills. computer skills are required. Excellent is looking for the right individual to lead Our culture encourages entrepreneurial spirit, hard work in growth opportunity. Salary based on following. 6 Figure Package for and manage its expansion into the U.S. exp. Fax resume to: (212) 221-8135 Fax resumes market. Possessing vast experience and an enjoyable way & rewards individual performance. the Right Individual! knowledge of the apparel landscape in to Dean at: 212-563-4262 the U.S., this position will be responsible Please e-mail or fax your resume to: Account Executive for overseeing the company’s growth within this territory. Excellent opportunity with the rapidly SALES The Echo Design Group, Inc. growing lifestyle brand, Tory by TRB, Ladies importer of Missy & Plus sizes aluxury apparel company with both The focus of this expansion will be mid- apparel. Seeking sales pro with tier U.S. retailers and as such, the ideal Wholesale and Retail divisions.Tory by established contacts and great follow- E: [email protected] F: (212)686-5017 TRB is seeking to fill an account exec- SALES EXECUTIVE candidate should have strong ties and Estab Better/Special Occasion Collec- up skills. Excellent opportunity for contacts within this market segment as * A licensed business of Polo/Ralph Lauren utive position for our fast-paced Corpo- tion Seeking A Hi Energy Person To right candidate. rate office. The ideal candidate will well as a proven track record in building Serve Between Hi-End Specialty Store Pls email resume to: strong customer bases. have 3+ years experience in women’s To Prestigious Major Retailer. Exp In [email protected] apparel, be a self-starter who thrives in Sales A Must. Fax 212 354 0999 or Compensation for this position will afast paced and hard working envi- [email protected] ronment, and be able to immediately Sales Manager be a combination of both base salary handle majors and specialty stores. Growing Contemporary Sportswear and commission, which will ensure Please submit resume with salary Company Well known designer is a mutually prosperous as well as requirements via email to seeking a seasoned enthusiastic Sales growth-oriented relationship. [email protected] Manager with a proven track record to join our team. Excellent career oppor- Please forward your resume to: tunity for a highly organized and [email protected] Sales Executive motivated team player with strong Major private label women’s sports- contemporary background. The candi- Acct Exec/Showrm Sales wear company seeks powerful Sales date must be able to manage represen- V.P. SLS - GIRLS/BOYS SPTS HI$ Growing, urban & trendy moderate Executive. We offer complete in-house tative sales offices as well as our NY Maj company seeks exp’d SLS PRO Outerwear Co. 512 7th Ave seeks support in design, pattern and sample corporate office. Salary and incentive w/contacts at upscale dept stores and aggressive, self starter & motivated making, fabric development, tech compensation commensurate with specialties. Knowl retail math req’d. acct exec. Must have min 2 yrs exp & design, and more. Global sourcing for knowledge and experience. strong comm & comp skills. Fax: 212- knits, denim and wovens. Fax resume to: E mail resume to: A.D. FORMAN ASSOC 302-5020/E-mail: [email protected] 212-391-2485 [email protected] 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Trench coat and pants by Stephen Burrows. Fabric by cotton.

05. Cotton. The fabric of our lives.® www.cottoninc.com rademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Incorporated, 20 bold AND IMPORTERS. ® Registered Service Mark/T AND IMPORTERS. AMERICAʼS COTTON PRODUCERS COTTON AMERICAʼS