Hotels restaurants cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

November 2010 - april 2011

Monument madness Tour Podgorica’s top statues daytrip to Budva ’s prime coastal resort

N°2 - €2 www.inyourpocket.com Contents 3

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents

Arriving in Podgorica 5 Happy landings

Basics 6 Electricity, Driving, Money etc.

History 9 From Slavic immigration to independence

Language 10 Getting to grips with the lingo

Culture & Events 11 Just the ticket

Where to stay 12 Presidential suites to bunk beds Statue at the Modern Art Gallery Sco Dining & Nightlife Where to eat 16 Sightseeing 26 Traditional food and all the rest Essential things to see and do

Cafés 22 29 Where to find the best espresso Montenegro’s magnificent fortified town

Nightlife 23 Budva 32 The best bars and clubs Capital of the coast

Getting around 36 When legs just aren’t enough

Mail & Phones 40 Keeping in touch

Shopping 41 The best bargains

Directory 44 All the other things you need to know Maps & Index Country map 46 City map 47 City centre map 48 Index 50 Street register 50 Dazzling ceiling frescoes in the new Cathedral JvM www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011 4 Foreword arriving in podgoriCa 5

When we launched Podgorica In Your Pocket last spring, Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain expensive little did we know how enthusiastically people would react Europe In Your Pocket destinations to fly to. If you’re counting pennies, do what Street smarts to the Montenegrin capital’s first English language city smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the guide. The guides were gratefully used by both locals and border in Croatia. Buses filter in from everywhere, and the Below is a list of Montenegrin street and place names. travellers, the Podgorica In Your Pocket website counter train journey from through the mountains is a In this guide we’ve left the word ulica (street) out of delightful introduction to the country. addresses, as is common practice locally. is steadily heading for 60,000 page views this year, and You’ll often see bb written in addresses, this means bez nearly 4,000 copies of the free PDF version have been broja, ‘no number’, and it’s probably an obvious building downloaded from www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com. By plane along the street. The enthusiastic reception and the increased support of Podgorica’s small but modern airport (aerodrom) is 8km local businesses has allowed us to expand the content for southwest of the city along the road to Bar. There is no Autoput Highway this second edition. Podgorica In Your Pocket now has many public transport to town, but Montenegro Airlines runs a Bulevar Boulevard bus service to Trg Republike, the main square, departing a Most Bridge more reviews and a brand new section about the beautiful Put Road coastal town of Budva. Our research elves have been digging short while after each of their flight arrivals. Tickets cost €3 and can be bought on the bus. Taking a taxi from outside Trg Square up fascinating facts about Podgorica’s many statues and the terminal to the city centre will cost around €20, but just Ulica Street monuments, and you’ll find the results on page 26. We’ll keep €5-10 if you call one of the local companies. If you’re arriving adding to this in future editions, as what Podgorica lacks in at Tivat airport, a taxi to Podgorica will take about 80 minutes looks, it makes up for in the statue department. and costs €40-50, depending on your bargaining skills. You After you sample the city, let us know at podgorica@ can also wait along the road for buses going south (to your inyourpocket.com what your favourite places are, as from right) to Budva and on to Podgorica, though you may need spring we’ll start counting votes in In Your Pocket’s ‘Best to wait a while. of Podgorica’ poll; see page 8 for more. Finally, if you’re a mobile person like most locals, keep an By train eye out for the Podgorica In Your Pocket iPhone app, which Train travellers from Belgrade or Bar disembark at Podgor- will be released this autumn and offers all reviews in this ica’s train station, on the eastern edge of the city. The sta- guide and more as a simple download – and linked to live tion building only holds ticket offices and a restaurant, so or offline GPS mapping. for ATMs, kiosks and other services walk across the street Whatever you do this winter, enjoy Podgorica. In Your Pocket is once again breaking new ground. to the bus station. To get to the city centre, hail a taxi for about €2 or hop on bus N°6 which trundles to the Crna Gora Fresh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides hotel. Alternatively, it’s a 15-minute walk along Oktobarske Cover story around, we have recently gone Swiss with a move into Revolucije, then right down Bratstva-Jedinstva. Buses N°7 Switzerland. The first issue of Zurich In Your Pocket and 4 run to the Novi Grad district. The ‘After Rain’ cover photo was is now out, providing visitors to the Swiss commercial taken by young Podgorica pho- capital with all the usual essential information an In tographer Miroslav Jovović, and Your Pocket guide provides. We also recently took By bus shows the Morača river as seen the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the Located right in front of the train station, Podgorica’s bus from the Vezirov Most bridge, station is a marvellous arrival point. Equipped with ATMs, a second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation minimarket, a superb little buffet restaurant, a post office just north of the city centre. The with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. You can photo has been enhanced using and a garderoba for leaving luggage (open 05:00-22:00, pseudo-HDR technique, creating download a free PDF copy of all our guides at our €2 per item), it has all you need to get ready for your as- Podgorica’s train station JvM a high dynamic range image from website, inyourpocket.com. To keep up with all In sault on the city. See Arriving by train for directions to one raw file. For more details, con- Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket the city centre. tact Miroslav at miroslav.jovovic@ on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow Districts hotmail.com. us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Tourist information Although small, Podgorica has several distinct districts. Nova Varoš (New Town) is the modern city centre, a The national tourism infor- regular grid of streets set between the Morača and Editorial Copyright notice mation number, tel. 1300, rivers. This area has the densest concentra- Editorial management Text and photos copyright Podgorica In is a handy one to save on tion of shops, restaurants and nightlife options, and ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Your Pocket 2010/2011. Maps copyright your mobile. They can answer various streets and squares have been pedestrianised cartographer. All rights reserved. No part or otherwise upgraded in recent years. Stara Varoš Contributor Marina Roganović of this publication may be reproduced in questions on all aspects of Podgorica In Your Pocket Research Dragan Lakočević any form, except brief extracts for travel and tourism for all of (Old Town), south of the two rivers’ confluence, is the © Albania Experience Sh.P.K Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė the purpose of review, without written Montenegro, 24 hours per city’s original old town area – although little remains Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, pall. 11/1, kati 6, Photos Rentapocket.com permission from the publisher and day. Normal telephone costs of the bustle of yesteryear. Ottoman-era landmarks Tirana, Albania Maps Intersistem, Belgrade copyright owner. The brand name In Your apply. here include the surrounded by a small Tel +355 4 225 17 84, Cover photo Miroslav Jovović Pocket is used under license from UAB bazaar, the fortress and two small mosques. A kilo- Fax +355 4 227 19 60 In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Tourism Board of Podgorica (TOP) E-2, Slobode metre west of the city centre, the Novi Grad (New [email protected] The Podgorica In Your Pocket team Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). City) district, informally and better known as Preko would like to thank the tourism offices 47, tel. +382 20 66 75 35, fax +382 20 66 75 www.inyourpocket.com Editor’s note 36, [email protected], www.podgorica.travel. Right Morače (Across the Morača), is Podgorica’s brand Montenegro office: of Podgorica, Budva and Kotor for their new business district. Originally a residential suburb kind help. The editorial content of In Your Pocket next to the Carine restaurant, the city’s friendly tourist PgIYP, c/o Marko Mirović, Goričani bb, guides is independent from paid-for information office does its best to inform you about all with uniform highrise apartment buildings, in the last 81304 , Montenegro Sales & Circulation advertising. We welcome all readers’ three sights in town and the plethora of interesting trips decade it’s seen massive investment and now has Manager Marko Mirović comments and suggestions. We have in the surroundings. They have informative brochures various new developments including offices, hotels, ISSN 1800-7929 marko.mirović@inyourpocket.com made every effort to ensure the accuracy and a good city map and can help book you a city tour upmarket restaurants and shops. Finally, the leafy Printing Evropa92, Kochani, tel. +382 69 55 67 95 of the information at the time of going to Pod Goricom (Below the hill) district, curled around press and assume no responsibility for or daytrip. Q June-Oct: open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Macedonia Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, Jeroen changes and errors. - 13:00, closed Sun. Nov-May: open 08:00 - 16:00, Gorica hill east of the city centre, is home to many Published 10,000 copies, twice a year van Marle, Sco closed Sat, Sun. embassies.

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011 6 BasiCs

Headlights must be switched on at all times. Unleaded petrol and diesel are relatively cheap at €1,10 and €1 per litre respectively. Parking your car in Podgorica is perfectly safe (if you can find a spot). There are several guarded car parks, the best ones are close to the city centre along Stanka Dragojevica (€0.20-0.50 per hour). Eco-tax In a marvellous scheme to milk foreigners, all vehicles entering Montenegro are subject to a so-called eco- tax. Passenger vehicles are charged €10 at the border, and receive a sticker valid for one year. Motorbikes are exempt. Funds raised are used for reforestation, protecting the environment and related things like building sports grounds and lining people’s pockets. For more information see www.ecotax-montenegro.gov.me. Insist on getting a receipt to make sure the funds actually The zelena pijaca market JvM reach the state. Communism Electricity The communist era was a dark age for many countries Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz, in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro fondly supplied through standard European two-pin sockets. tell stories of how good it was when called each other comrade (druže) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world Gay & Lesbian stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible Public displays of homosexuality are not tolerated and gay communist legacy is disappearing fast. Even Tito had his visitors should be careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in boulevard renamed after a saint. big-city Podgorica there’s little tolerance, and there are as yet no gay bars or clubs. Disabled travellers Public transport is not equipped for disabled travellers yet, but most pedestrian crossings in town now have sloped Basic data kerbs, and the main crossings in the centre have sound signalling systems for the blind. Many restaurants and cafés Population are unfortunately still inaccessible for wheelchair users. Montenegro 626,188 Podgorica 142,500 (2007) Hotels with facilities for the disabled are marked with the wheelchair symbol in this guide. Ethnic composition 43% 32% 8% 3% other 14% Driving Territory Getting around the country by car is fast and efficient, 13,812 square kilometres though driving can be manic; beware for dare-devils overtaking in bends. Montenegro’s roads are generally Borders well-kept and easy to navigate, though a good map is Adriatic 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km handy if you’re headed to remote destinations. The Croatia 14km Kosovo 60km 143km maximum speed in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns and villages, 80km/hr on other roads unless indicated Longest river otherwise. There are no highways in Montenegro. Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro) Largest lake Climate Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with Albania. Size depends on water level) Highest point Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m Longest beach: Velika Plaža, 13km

UNESCO World Heritage sites Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay, Tara Canyon

Local time GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays of March and October.

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com 8 BasiCs History 9

by Yugoslav partizans in 1944, during which Podgorica was Purchasing power Safety heavily damaged, Montenegro became a republic within Podgorica is a peaceful place and visitors should take no more the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Podgorica How far does your euro, pound or dollar go? precautions than for other European cities. With a prevalent became Titograd in honour of President Josip Tito and the Taxi from airport to city centre €10 and youthful café culture, coffee poisoning and falling in love city was rebuilt. Cinema ticket €3.50 with a local are currently the biggest threats to foreigners. Espresso €0.70-1.10 The end of Yugoslavia Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.5-2.5 Yugoslavia’s collapse in 1992 meant that Montenegro Mineral water (1.5 litre) €0.50 Smoking was left alone with Serbia in the new Federal Republic of Mars bar €0.45 Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of no-smoking Yugoslavia. An unmonitored referendum at the time showed Public transport ticket €0.30 signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but unfortunately great support among Montenegrins for this, though turnout the locals’ rebellious spirit and tobacco addictions mean that was low due to boycotts. these are widely ignored. We’ve indicated which places have The Montenegrin police and military joined Serbian troops Exchange rates (nominal) no-smoking areas in this guide. in the Bosnian and Croatian wars of 1991-1995 and were involved in various campaigns against towns in Croatia £1 = €1.13, US$1 = €0.72 Toilets (including the bombing of Dubrovnik) and Bosnia. Prime (Oct 22, 2010) Minister Milo Đukanović started to cut ties with Serbia There are few public toilets in Podgorica. One can be found in in 1996, replacing the dinar with the German Mark (and the park by the Crna Gora hotel. In case of emergency, most later the euro) to loosen economic ties with Belgrade and bars and restaurants will let you use theirs if you ask nicely. becoming much more independent. During NATO’s 1999 Money Kosovo campaign, Montenegro was also targeted though Montenegro’s official currency is the euro (€), which is divided into damage was limited. 100 cents. Euro bills come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, Visas €50, €100, €200 and €500 euros. Coins come in denominations For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for citizens To independence of €2, €1, €0.50, €0.20, €0.10, €0.05 and €0.01. Montenegro of the EU, Western and many other countries. All others need While tensions with Serbia remained, Montenegro continued unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar to the a visa, although those with valid Schengen (EU) visas or US on the path towards separation. The Federal Republic German mark in 1999 for fear of economic destabilisation by visas may stay visa-free for up to seven days. of Yugoslavia was replaced by the union of Serbia and Serbia. It adopted the euro when the currency was introduced Montenegro in 2003, but soon enough the peaceful and fair in 2002. Although Montenegro doesn’t have a monetary EU-monitored referendum in 2006 showed a 55% majority in agreement with the European Central Bank and does not have Water favour of complete independence from Serbia. Montenegro issuing rights, the EU recognises the stabilising influence of the Tap water can safely be consumed in Podgorica. Bottled water subsequently became independent on June 3, 2006. currency, and does not object to Montenegro using it. Euros are is widely available, and you can support the local economy by Tensions remain as Montenegrin and Serbian identity are best obtained from ATMs where EU account holders should be buying good Montenegrin brands like include Aqua Bianca, closely interwoven. charged the same transaction fees as in their home country. Aqua Monta and Suza. Since independence Montenegro has seen great economic Alternatively, change at a bank (ID required). growth, particularly in the tourism and construction sectors St. George’s church JvM as a liberal land ownership policy allowed foreigners to buy Vice land with few restrictions. Especially Russian investors Registration Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro. Plain- Ancient history took advantage of the opportunity, and Budva and other Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially need clothes police will have no second thoughts about arresting The oldest known inhabitants of what is now Montenegro coastal resorts see many Russian tourists in summer. The to be registered. Most hotels will take care of this for you. and charging foreigners. were the Illyrian tribes who were subdued by the Romans economy took a hit during the world financial crisis and Annoyingly, visitors staying at hostels, guesthouses and with in 9AD and then marginalised by the mass immigration of tourism numbers dropped, though long-term prospects locals may need to register themselves with the police to Slavs in the fifth and sixth centuries. The principality of are still good. avoid possible trouble when leaving the country – we’ve had The Best of Podgorica that the Slavic newcomers founded became independent reports of fines and other hassles. Buy a registration card from the Byzantine Empire in 1042 and soon became a (Prijava boravišta stranaca) at any office supply shop for It’s time for the readers of Podgorica In Your Pocket to make kingdom, expanding to incorporate surrounding areas. In the €0.50, and perhaps also check with the Tourist Information their voices heard. In 2011 we will hold the grand ‘Best of early medieval era the region was ruled alternatively by local Office if the bureaucratic fossils of the Montenegrin state Podgorica’ readers’ poll. In order to draft the shortlist of families and the medieval Serbian state until the Ottomans really still need to know your whereabouts. candidates we need your feedback. What is your favourite occupied the region in 1499. place in Podgorica for local or Italian food, for a snack, for drinks, or to stay the night? Write to us at podgorica@ The Ottoman era inyourpocket.com to let us know. Montenegro remained relatively autonomous within the The major is Orthodox Christianity. The categories are... Ottoman empire, with local noble families allowed to rule Other important religious communities are , especially Best Montenegrin restaurant the area with little interference. Despite this, the occupation in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and Catholicism. Best Italian restaurant was never accepted and several uprisings occurred until the After independence, the Montenegrin Orthodox Church grew Best international restaurant Ottomans were finally defeated in the late 17th century. to encompass about 30 per cent of all Orthodox believers, Best fast food restaurant Under Prince-Bishops Petar I and II Petrović-Njegoš, though it is not recognised by the Orthodox Church yet. Best burek shop Montenegro unified and became a theocracy Best pizza restaurant Best café/bar 20th century National holidays Best club Nicholas I greatly expanded and modernised the principality Best cultural institution in the 20th century, winning recognition of independence January 1-3 New Year’s Day Best Podgorica sight from the Ottoman Empire in 1878. The constitution is signed January 7 Orthodox Christmas Best daytrip destination in 1905, the country becomes a kingdom in 1910, and Best Montenegro beach April 22 (2011) Good Friday quickly becomes more important as Montenegro’s Best shopping centre capital, with a succession of embassies established there. April 24-26 (2011) Easter Best business hotel Montenegro started the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913 May 1 Labour Day Best leisure hotel to definitely expel the Ottomans from the region, and joined May 21 Independence Day Best hotel outside Podgorica Serbia in the First World War. In 1918, the country was added July 13 Statehood Day Best conference venue to Serbia and remained so until the country was invaded and declared independent by the Nazis in 1941. After liberation The Bomb memorial JvM

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011 10 Language CuLture & events 11

The locals have recently decided to officially name the Practicalities British Council K-1, Ulcinjska 8, tel. +382 20 61 84 language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of My name is... Moje ime je… 10, fax +382 20 61 84 11, [email protected], Serbian that has been promoted as the national language I’m from... Ja sam iz… www.britishcouncil.me. Promoting English language, arts since independence in 2006, though many locals still declare ...UK . ..Velika Britanija and the UK. Has a library with reading and viewing materials. they simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, ...USA ...Amerika QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. it’s a south Slavic language closely linked to others in the I don’t understand Ne razumijem French Cultural Centre (Centre Culturel Français) region, but with small variations and an alphabet that has I don’t speak... Ne govorim... D-3, Gojka Radonjića 32, tel. +382 20 62 13 39/+382 two extra letters. ... Montenegrin/Serbian Crnogorski/Srpski 78 10 15 79, [email protected], www.ambafrance- As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can be used to What’s your name? Kako se ti zoveš?/Kako ti je ime? me.org. Organises French language courses and many write Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names A ticket, please Kartu, molim cultural events such as French film nights, literary workshops and newspapers are in Latin script. While we’re on the How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? and concerts. QOpen 09:15 - 18:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. topic of language, note that people from Montenegro are A ticket, please Kartu, molim Closed Sun. not Montenegroes as you sometimes see written, but How much does this cost? Koliko ovo košta? KIC Budo Tomović (Dom Omladine Budo Tomović) Montenegrins. When? Kada? E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12, tel. +382 20 66 42 35/+382 20 Now Sada / Odmah 22 55 87, fax + 382 20 66 42 33, info@kicpodgorica. Pronunciation Where? Gdje? com, www.kicpodgorica.com. Podgorica’s main youth Č č like ch in church Here Ovdje culture centre, with a neat rooftop terrace for films and Ć ć similar to č, but softer There Tamo concerts. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. DŽ dž like g in George Who? Ko? Đ/DJ đ/dj like j in jaw Why? Zašto? J j like y in yes What? Šta? Libraries Š š like sh in show I have... Ja sam iz... National Library (Narodna Biblioteka Radosav U u like oo in roof I am... Ja sam… Ljumović) D-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 42 Ž ž like x in luxurious 17, [email protected], www.nbp.me. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Signs Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Niceties & Necessities Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno Yes Da No Ne Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz Hello Zdravo Goodbye Do viđenja Push Guraj Pull Vuci Theatres Good Dobro Please Molim No smoking Zabranjeno pušenje City Theatre (Gradsko Pozorište) D-2, Bokeška Thank you Hvala Here you are Izvolite 2, tel. +382 20 66 50 85/+382 20 66 50 87, info@ Good morning Dobro jutro Good day Dobar Numbers pgpozoriste.me, www.pgpozoriste.me. Regular plays as Good evening Dobar veče Good night Laku noć 0 - nula 4 - četiri 8 - osam 50 - pedeset well as performances aimed at children. Cheers! Živjeli! All the best! Sve najbolje! 1 - jedan 5 - pet 9 - devet 100 - sto National Theatre (Crnogorsko Narodno Pozorište) Excuse me Oprostite Sorry Izvinite 2 - dva 6 - šest 10 - deset 1000 - hiljadu Underground culture: Karver JvM D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 18, tel./fax +382 20 66 40 82, How are you? Kako si? 3 - tri 7 - sedam 20 - dvadeset tel. +382 20 66 40 75, [email protected], www.cnp.me. A Podgorica has a modest but good set of venues for cultur- very active theatre with local and regional plays performed on al events, and a handful of annual festivals, the main ones most nights. Q Box office open Mon-Sat 09:00-13:00, also in July and in December. Like many countries in this part of daily from 17:00 to the start of the performance. Europe, events are planned and announced haphazardly - keep an eye on posters and local papers and ask around to find out what’s on during your visit.

The 17th edition of the Podgorica Marathon (Podgorički Cinemas maraton) is held on 31 October 2010. Starting on Trg Ster Cinema G-2, Cetinjski put bb ( mall), tel. Republike, the participants run 42 kilometres, across “The Race Even Marathoners Fear” +382 20 41 44 24, www.stermontenegro.com. Montene- the Millennium Bridge and south past the airport, and gro’s only modern cinema, its Afrikaans name revealing the back to town via . The 21km half marathon starts in franchise’s South African origins, has six screens showing Danilovgrad, northwest of town. The record times to beat -The Wall Street Journal, 2010 local films and subtitled Hollywood hits. Monday is student are 2:11:41 for men and 2:31:18 for women. Spectators night. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. Tickets €3.50. PA are welcome along the route and on Trg Republike, where there’s food and entertainment. For more information see Concert halls www.maraton.co.me. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, [email protected], www.karver.org. A small concert hall and performance The Night Of Podgorica space above the Karver bookshop. Entrance is to the left of the main building. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. On 19 December, the Podgorička noć celebrates the lib- eration of the city after the Second World War. The Crna Cultural centres Gora Hotel is the scene of a banquet with live music. American Corner E-1, Vaka Ðurovica 12 (KIC Budo Tomović), tel. +382 20 66 70 65, amcorner@t-com. me, www.kicpodgorica.com. The US information centre, December Art Scene festival where you can browse magazines and newspapers. QOpen July 2011 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fine arts, literature and theatre are celebrated during the Banja Cultural Centre E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin DEUS December Art Scene festival, held in December. Ex- www.theSFmarathon.com brijeg bb, [email protected]. The former Turkish bath, pect exhibitions and concerts at KIC Budo Tomović, various wedged under a bridge, now houses a bookshop, café, and public buildings and outside on the city squares. internet café. QOpen 18:00 - 20:00.

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011 12 wHere to stay wHere to stay 13

Despite rapid developments along the Montenegrin coast, Crna Gora D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel. Podgorica’s accommodation scene is still lacking truly Upmarket +382 20 44 34 43, fax +382 20 63 42 94, recepcija@ cheap and truly charming places to stay, though several Ambasador D-1, Vaka Đurovića 5, tel. +382 20 27 22 33, hotelcg.com, www.hotelcg.com. Set to be renovated new hotels have recently raised the bar. The limited range fax +382 20 27 22 44, [email protected], www. by the Hilton group, the Crna Gora was built the year Sta- of accommodation ranges from merely adequate to ambasador.me. A great location by the river, the fully reno- lin breathed his last and was last renovated just after luxurious. vated rooms all come with lovely wooden floors, stainless steel Gorbachev began steering Socialism into a brick wall. It Our hotel reviews are categorised by the number of stars ceilings in the bathrooms, cable television and a three-piece still represents the pinnacle of communist luxury. For now awarded by the local tourism authorities - though this may suite in the apartments. Knowing full well that the attraction expect a choice of unrenovated amusements and one or two not always correspond with the foreign star rating system, lies with the location, the owners haven’t exactly splashed rooms that appear to have been decorated by a committee or your own sense of what’s good or not. out on facilities, making it a little expensive considering what of low-budget television makeover gurus, all of them with you get, but the in-house riverside restaurant makes up for its balconies. Avoid using the overpriced wifi. Q 135 rooms deficiencies. Charming. Q 9 rooms (3 doubles €95, 6 apart- (singles €60-96, doubles €92-117, apartment €143-291). Coming soon: the Podgorica In ments €150). PHAULKW hhhh POHAFLKW hhhh Apart Hotel Premier A-1/2, Bul. Mihaila Lalića 1, Eminent D-2, Njegoševa 25, tel. +382 20 66 46 46, fax Your Pocket iPhone app tel. +382 20 40 99 00, fax +382 20 40 99 99, office@ +382 20 66 42 70, [email protected], www.eminent. aparthotelpremier.com. For those who want more privacy co.me. The best little city centre hotel can be found right and space than a regular hotel can offer, yet including break- beside the cafés on Njegoševa, and for that reason it’s best fast and room service, the three types of luxury apartments to avoid the two front rooms on summer evenings. The busi- Symbol key at the Apart Hotel in the Novi Grad district are a solution. ness apartments have funky Art Deco style wooden furniture. Spread over six floors, each is fitted out with a sitting area, Nice touches include fresh fruit in the rooms. Q 13 rooms P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted closeted kitchenette, hydromassage shower and cable inter- (singles €80, doubles €130, triples €160, apartments €90- net. Q 48 apartments (18 studio €180, 12 junior €210, 18 140). PHAKW hhhh O Casino H Conference facilities executive €250). PHALW hhhh T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled Keto K-1, Skopska 1, tel. +382 20 61 12 21, fax +382 Bambis Franca Rozmana 10a, tel./fax +382 20 61 20 61 12 24, [email protected], www.hotelketo. F Fitness centre L Guarded parking 10 06, tel. +382 67 61 10 06, hotel-bambis@hotmail. com. Just east of the centre, Keto is a small and modern R Internet G Non-smoking rooms com, www.bambis-hotel.com. A good choice for business business hotel with top-notch services that prides itself visitors or those en route to or from Belgrade, the spotless on its collection of striking Montenegrin paintings, hung K Restaurant W Wi-Fi rooms at Bambis were decorated using eco-friendly paint throughout the building. In summer, there’s a pleasant D Sauna C Swimming pool and have extra wide and long beds and triple glazing to terrace to relax on. Q 9 rooms (3 singles €49, 3 dou- ensure a good night’s sleep. The large conference room bles €79, 3 apartments €99-139). PHALGKW 6 Animal friendly downstairs seats 300 people. Complimentary laptops are hhhh available for workaholics and addicted surfers. Along the road to Belgrade, near the Eko petrol station. Q 13 rooms Kosta’s K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, tel. +382 20 65 67 (singles €65-75, doubles €75-90, 10 apartments €65-170). 02/+382 20 61 00 00, hotelkostasprodaja@hotmail. Philia G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 20 24 29 PHALKW hhhh com, www.hotelkostas.com. Located in the dreary east- 12/+382 20 60 19 70, [email protected], www. ern suburbs, or as the brochure puts it ‘between a sea and philiahotel.com. Podgorica’s best-looking hotel can be Best Western Premier A-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cet- snowing mountian half and hour from’, the glam Kosta’s is found on the western fringes of the city, near the Delta City injskog 145, tel. +382 20 40 65 00/+382 20 40 65 10, a self-declared VIP apartment hotel. Beyond the reception mall. Its neo-Baroque façade hides a very stylish lounge area fax +382 20 40 65 99, [email protected], area that looks like an antique shop, the apartments on and a small selection of modern rooms and suites, the latter www.bestwestern-ce.com/montenegro. Just in case you offer are decent and spacious and come in a gay variety of with large opening windows offering rural views. The meet- needed more proof that Podgorica is now a city of some im- colours, and with in-room kitchens and PCs for browsing. Q ing rooms and fast wifi make it well-equipped for business portance, here it is in the shape of Best Western. Their hotel in 14 apartment rooms (singles €69-89, doubles €99-129). travellers. Q 15 rooms (4 singles €51, 8 doubles €72, 3 the heart of the capital’s Novi Grad business district offers, as PHALKDW hhhh apartments €100-130). PHALKW hhhh you’d expect, top class facilities including immaculate rooms with all the trimmings, an intimate bar with large terrace, top Podgorica C-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 1, tel. +382 notch business and conference facilities and highly polished 20 40 25 00/+382 20 40 25 01, fax +382 20 40 25 staff. Q 48 rooms (singles €135-175, doubles €195-205, 01, [email protected], www.hotel- apartments €250-280). PHALGKW hhhh podgorica.co.me. Built in 1967 and resembling the lair of a Bond film villain, this is one of the best hotels in town. Bojatours D-3, Kralja Nikole 10, tel. +382 20 62 Perched on the riverbank opposite the centre, using rounded 12 23/+382 20 62 12 40, fax +382 20 62 11 53, river stones to decorate the concrete structure, the reno- [email protected]. A friendly hotel-cum-travel-agent be- vated rooms have large balconies with river views and are tween the train station and the city centre, with classic-style well-appointed with modern conveniences. The restaurant interiors with the obligatory clashing colours. The smallish is known for its fish dishes and has a lovely terrace. Q 44 rooms all have PCs for internet browsing, but lack central rooms (3 singles €125-135, 33 doubles €140-180, 8 apart- heating in winter. Choose a room facing the back to avoid ments €190-200). PHAUFLGKW hhhh traffic noise. Q 18 rooms (13 singles €80, 4 doubles €115, 1 apartment €100). PAFDW hhhh Mid-range City D-4, Crnogorskih Serdara 5, tel. +382 20 44 15 Ambiente G-2, Cetinjski put 34, tel./fax +382 20 23 55 00, fax +382 20 44 15 01, recepcija@cityhotelmn. 30, [email protected]. Right next to the Delta shopping com, www.cityhotelmn.com. South of the centre, at the mall and a short drive to the Novi Grad district, Ambiente fea- foot of a dainty hill, the City is a large renovated Yugo-era tures simple rooms with wooden floorboards and reasonable hotel that now offers competent staff and decent-sized bathrooms (showers only) in two buildings surrounded by a cream-coloured rooms. There’s a business centre, café and lush garden. The restaurant serves good local cuisine, and a a large sheltered terrace at the back of the building. Q 79 kiwi plant on the terrace provides fresh fruit in summer. Q 14 rooms (singles €90, doubles €116, 9 apartments €160). rooms (singles €45, doubles €60, triples €75, 2 apartments PHAUFLGKW hhhh Public drinking fountain JvM €50-80). PHARLKW hhh

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011 14 wHere to stay

internet and minibars. Among the other good things in store are a mediocre restaurant, small fitness room and the pos- sibility to hire laptops, DVD players and camcorders. The mind boggles. Q 20 rooms (2 singles €56, 11 doubles €67-110, 7 apartments €89-120). PHAGKDW hhh

Laguna G-3, Vojislavljevića 72, tel. +382 20 64 17 77/+382 67 52 97 77, [email protected], www. laguna_restauranthotel.montenegro.com. Several well- appointed rooms located beside an interior decoration showroom on the outskirts of town. Laguna also has a smart, rustic restaurant that’s popular with locals from the sur- rounding area. Q 7 rooms (singles €35-45, doubles €50-60, apartments €60-75). PALEKW hhh

Lovćen Zetskih vladara bb, Petrovački put, tel./fax +382 20 62 52 19, tel. +382 20 64 21 32, bracasofranac@t-com. me, www.hotellovcen.co.me. Along the main road to Bar past the airport, this travellers’ hotel has good clean rooms with clas- sic brown furnishings and a guarded car and truck parking area. Q 24 rooms (8 singles €40-60, 13 doubles €60-95, 3 triples €90-130). PHAULKW hhh

Piramida Nikole Tesle 126, Zagorič, tel. +382 20 61 16 08/+382 69 43 39 33, [email protected], www.piramida.me. This wonderful little hotel, located just north of town, was operating as a bed and breakfast at time of research but is set to change when the new restaurant is opened in late 2010. Rooms are lovely, with lively colours and plenty of comfort. There’s a family room, as well as a room with a bathroom across the hall (the cheaper rate in the price list). Both floors have living room style foyers. Q 10 rooms (doubles €20-63, singles €15-42). PHLGKCW hhh

Rene Pljevaljska 10, tel. +382 20 66 05 99/+382 67 80 Evropa F-4, Orahovačka 16, tel./fax +382 20 62 34 80 10, [email protected]. Way out along the Belgrade 44, [email protected], www.hotelevropa.co.me. A hotel road and suffering from the traffic noise, the decent rooms at next to a bus and train station that prides itself on its budget Rene are no cheaper nor better than those in the city centre. price simply shouldn’t be this good, but once again the good A taxi here from the centre costs about €2.50. Q 5 rooms (1 people of Podgorica have torn up the rule book and given us single €25, 4 doubles €45-55). PALKW hhh something altogether unexpected. Sure the rooms are small, agreed they’re not exactly bursting with trouser presses, Šarović Nikole Tesle 62, tel./fax +382 20 61 22 17, but hey, it’s clean, quiet, and best of all it stands head and [email protected]. Far off in a northern residential shoulders above many others when it comes to service. suburbs (a €2 taxi ride from the centre), you’d think you’d get Recommended. Q 22 rooms (singles €55, doubles €90, some peace and quiet here. Not when we visited. The restau- triples €120). PHARLKDW hhh rant and garden terrace are popular for weddings involving mu- sic blasted loud enough to dislodge fillings. The large rooms Holiday K-1, Prve Proleterske Brigade 11, tel. +382 20 61 are otherwise fine, and have a kitchen with sink and oven. 14 11, fax +382 20 61 16 99, recepcija@hotelholidaypg. The cheaper rooms share clean communal bathrooms. Q 7 com, www.hotelholidaypg.com. A clean and cheerful out-of- rooms (singles € 21, doubles €31). PHLK hhh town hotel featuring a range of singles and doubles with basic pine furniture, colourful bedspreads, minibars, the occasional balcony, basic showers, and one rather fancy room with an enor- Guesthouses mous bed. It’s short on bells and whistles, but if you don’t need Kubura G-2, Rusa Radulovića 79, tel. +382 69 06 65 them and aren’t bothered about the trawl in and out of the city 77/+382 69 06 65 78. Good-value rooms with cable TV then this place is a rather nice option. PALW hhh and free wifi in a suburb just to the west of the city. Rooms share clean facilities, while the apartments are en suite and Ideal K-2, Žrtava Fašizma bb, tel. +382 20 62 70 67, also have kitchenettes. Q 10 rooms (singles €15, doubles fax +382 20 62 79 99, [email protected], www. €20, triples €30, quads €40, apartments €30). PW hotelideal.me. Selling itself as a business hotel, Ideal is a functional place with adequate, basic rooms, un0ideally located out of town. Q 30 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, Hostels triples €60). PHALKW hhh Podgorica Hostel E-1, Branjevina Boljevica, Golubovci, tel. +382 67 37 29 36/+382 69 51 27 47, podgor- Kerber E-2, Novaka Miloševa 6, tel. +382 20 40 54 00, [email protected], www.stevesplacehostel.com. fax +382 20 40 54 06, [email protected], www. Podgorica’s only hostel is in the process of moving, and at hotelkerber.co.me. A marvellous location just a few sec- time of research only offered budget beds in the Jankovic onds from the central square and hidden away inside a small family home near the airport (with free pickup). Contact the shopping centre, facilities include plain and simple rooms all affable owner Steve for more details on the hostel’s new coming with crisp white bedding, cable television, DSL cable location. Q (€15 per bed). PLK

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com 16 restaurants

While it’s no gourmet destination, Podgorica has plenty of Mimi E-2, Trg Republike 31, tel. +382 20 66 52 88. decent places to eat - and above all it’s often very afford- A frequently hectic affair involving much dashing about by able. The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a dark young ladies in aprons, the deal here is a good one. main course. Part patisserie, part burger joint and part shop, drop by for takeaway treats such as sticky buns and savoury Turkish pastries, sit outside with a snack and watch the world drift Symbol key by, or take advantage of their superb range of ultra-cold soft drinks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PB P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted E Live music S Take away Školijera (Voda u Kršu) D-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 151, tel. +382 69 54 43 75. An immensely popular L Guarded parking U Facilities for the disabled hole-in-the-wall pancake place, dishing out cheap sweet W Wi-Fi B Outside seating and savoury pancakes. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. V Home delivery Voda u Kršu D-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 149, tel. +382 20 66 42 09. Hamburgers, pljeskavica, kebabs and french Chinese fries sold till late. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - Shanghai (Hong Kong) D-2, Stanka Dragojevića 02:00. Closed Sun. 14, tel. +382 69 12 01 20/+382 69 02 24 38, www. kineskirestoran.me. Chinese chef Mr. Li runs the kitchen of Podgorica’s first Asian eatery, serving a wide range of popular International Kineski dishes, toned down in intensity for Balkan tastes. The Art Café B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 131, tel. +382 narrow, double-level restaurant has lavish Chinese decora- 20 22 44 33, [email protected]. Apart from tions and plinkity-ploink music to synchronise your chopstick an ancient-looking mosaic of a running chap there’s not skills to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-12). PAVBW much art to look at in the Art Café, though the gallery-like design of the place and especially the glass-walled terrace pod outside may suggest that you, dear coffee-sippers, are Fast food the artworks to be admired. Enjoy the glances cast your way Colombia D/E-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevica 143, tel. +382 together with imaginative dishes like Ceasars pizza, tuna 67 69 07 28/+382 67 61 14 03. Locals come here to pancake or penne with chopped beefsteak. QOpen 08:00 - order el sandwich, stuffed pancakes eaten like a wrap, 24:00. PABW and named after any of a dozen Latin American countries. Also at Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 71. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Crna Gora Restaurant D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cet- Closed Sun. P injskog 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, www.hotelcg.com. In keeping with the hotel’s ostenta- tious leanings, Crna Gora’s in-house restaurant is both vast and posh. True it isn’t as grand as it once was, but the National Tourism Association of Montenegro deem it good enough to slap a recommendation sticker on the door for its authentic national cuisine. Among the dishes on offer find wild boar, hare and roe deer. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PAEB

Fish

Lupo di Mare D-2, Trg Republike 22, tel. +382 67 90 92 999. Run by a real fisherman, Podgorica’s newest seafood restaurant has a bright two-floor interior with a seafaring theme, and is named after Jack London’s shipwreck story Sea-Wolf. All fish and seafood is caught fresh and although there’s a menu, it’s probably best to point out your preferred fish from the display, or let the cook do what he does best with the catch of the day - excellent results guaranteed. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB

Maša B-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 31, tel. +382 20 22 44 60, [email protected]. Featuring both a great outdoor terrace and a classy upstairs res- taurant, Maša’s reputation for fresh seafood is a worthy one indeed. The vast English menu also includes truffles, veal and lobster, all served in majestic surroundings by friendly and attentive gentlemen. Highly recommended for the full blow out or as a decent venue for informal business meetings over a good cup of coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com 18 restaurants restaurants 19

to the other side of the space and you’re lounging. Here, the Forma E-4, Mitra Bakića bb, tel. +382 20 62 36 91. The Mona Lisa E-2, Balšića 4, tel. +382 20 23 05 48. classy décor is enhanced with subtle chandelier lighting and best place to wait for a bus or train is just across the square La Gioconda’s faint smile overlooks this intimate café and less subtle thumping music, and there’s a cigar corner for inside this modern café and pizzeria, or on its great terrace. restaurant, with comfy seats and a stained glass window smokers. Next to the Best Western hotel. QOpen 08:00 - Apart from these pies, Forma also serves good sandwiches featuring leaves and eyes. It’s a good place for a glass of 24:00. PAB and pancakes. Also in the city centre at Njegoševa 14 (tel. wine or other drinks, and there’s Italian fare available too at +382 69 10 02 00). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB decent prices. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Maršal B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 56, tel. +382 20 24 61 94/+382 69 38 58 90, restoranmarsal@t-com. Il Giardino A-2, Rimski trg 28, tel. +382 69 31 33 13, Sempre (Ristorante Italiano Sempre) D-2, Stanka me. A modestly-sized restaurant along the main boulevard [email protected]. Arguably the best res- Dragojevića 14, tel. +382 69 55 16 61. Small and unas- in Novi Grad, with plenty of teak wood, a semi-circle of floral taurant in the city’s rapidly expanding new business district, suming, the owner here has gone to great efforts to con- stained glass on the ceiling, small lamps on the tables and Il Giardino offers everything from minestrone soup to pasta centrate on the food rather than the décor. This is allegedly a backlit bookcase for browsing. You can try cooking your and risotto, all cooked by a local chef who earned his wings the only restaurant in Podgorica that makes its own pasta, own food on a hot rock here, washing down the results with in Italy. It has a lovely setting overlooking a pedestrianised including some fine ravioli and gnocchi. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. some excellent wines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. square and is rustically themed with lots of coloured plates. Closed Sun. PAG PABW QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€7-20). PAGBW Opera A-2, Rimski trg 59 (Poslovni Centar Kruševac), Soul food tel. +382 20 20 51 10/+382 68 40 78 44, info@ Leonardo B-1, Svetozara Markovića bb, tel. +382 20 restoranopera.com, www.restoranopera.com. Dimmed 24 29 02/+382 69 30 33 03, www.leonardo-restoran. Duhovni Centar (Spiritual Centre) D-2, Njegoševa lighting and padded seating along the walls below city photos com. Hidden in a humdrum residential area on the west 27, tel. +382 20 66 55 19. Food for the soul is served at determine the atmosphere of this classy restaurant and club. bank, this delightful two-storey café and restaurant is well this delightful church-run café, an island of peace amidst Lunch or dine on Italian/French cuisine and try the cakes - or worth looking up for its excellent Italian food and its relaxed the hedonistic bars along Njegoševa. The wooden tables for a proper night at Opera, come on Friday and Saturday terrace. The mercifully limited menu lists various specialities. and benches in the simple interior are overlooked by beau- nights when it becomes a lively cocktail bar. QOpen 08:00 Try the parmesan cheese starter followed by the gnocchi with tiful photos of Orthodox monasteries. Set up as a meeting - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00:02:00. PAB mushroom and courgette, or a fresh fish dish. Walk towards place as well as a café where Orthodox believers can eat Moskovska to find it in the middle of the block. QOpen 08:00 food adhering to the prescribed diet (no meat, eggs or dairy Stari Sat C-1, 13 Jula bb, tel. +382 20 23 71 33. A - 24:00. (€5-15). PABW products on Wednesday, Friday and certain other days), modest restaurant on the ground floor of a residential block, the friendly staff is just as pleased to serve cheese pies, serving hamburgers, spaghetti, pancakes and other snacks Long Road F-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevića 59, tel. +382 sausages, hamburgers, cakes and pancakes to foreign to ravished students. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PB 20 63 48 99/+382 67 22 99 33. Just as rustic as the travellers. Specialities of the house are the wholesome nearby Laterna, the red brick interior at Long Road smells of wheat-with-cream dessert, and the freshly made fruit the wood-fired pizza oven and meat sizzling on the grill. The juice. Best of all, it’s very cheap. Recommended. QOpen Italian shaded terrace is unfortunately right beside a busy long road. 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. PG Carine Centar E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00, QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PABW [email protected], www.carine.co.me. A huge and mas- sively popular conglomeration of restaurant, café, bar, bakery Dali A-2, Bul. Džordža Vašingtona 87, tel. +382 69 23 and more. The modern restaurant section, inside at the back, 45 67/+382 69 01 90 20, [email protected], looks great with its wooden floors and white tables but does www.dali.co.me. Ask a local for a good restaurant and it’s suffer a lot from the noise from the other sections and from likely they’ll send you here, in the Novi Grad area. Dali’s menu the waiters scurrying everywhere. Still, the fresh fish dishes, features very well-made local and international fish, pizza and the local meats and the Italian food on offer is very decent pasta dishes served by friendly staff. The interior could have and reasonably priced. Also in the Novi Grad area. QOpen been a tad much more Salvadoresque, but thankfully the 07:00 - 24:00. (€7-15). PABKW mad Montenegrin drivers tackling the roundabout outside provide enough surrealism. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun Carine Restoran B-2, Moskovska 2-9, tel. +382 20 09:00 - 01:00. PALGW 24 15 33, [email protected], www.carine.co.me. The second edition of the city’s largest and most popular dining Dialogue E-2, Trg Republike 32, tel. +382 69 03 22 spot has a similar menu and the same kind of crowd, and can 00. A delightful restaurant and café on the main square with be found in a long space in the Novi Grad part of town. The excellent service, live guitar music every Sunday, Monday and venue is so long, in fact, that they need signposting to avoid Tuesday, and screens showing waves lapping a tropical beach customers getting lost between the pizzeria, café, national instead of the ubiquitous Fashion TV. From noon, Dialogue restaurant and the 30-metre long terrace. QOpen 08:00 - serves a decent selection of food including sandwiches, 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABW pasta, fresh fish and Russian sasljik skewers. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€6-15). PAEBW Bakeries Duet E-1, Vaka Đurovića bb, tel. +382 20 66 58 65/+382 20 66 58 66. A decent place to eat below the Dion G-3, Voislavljevića bb. A small selection of sticky stadium, Duet has walls hung with modern art including a buns and soft drinks with the opportunity of digesting on the picture of Commander Che, and serves the full range of local hoof, or at one of the tables outside. Q Open 24hrs. P and Italian food, with some quirky choices such as gruzijska hacapuri (Georgian cheese pie). QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat Inpek E-2, Trg Republike 29. A small selection of 10;00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€3-7). PABW sweet and savoury pastries with outside seating over- looking the main square. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun Gossip A-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 153, tel. +382 06:00 - 14:00. B 63 23 45 67, [email protected], www.gossip. co.me. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, this sleek undertak- Krisma E-2, Balšića 5, tel. +382 20 65 87 10. A very ing is Podgorica’s prime jetset destination for now. Guests good bakery and café in the city centre; pop in for a crois- can enjoy imaginative Mediterranean food, with several sant or linger for a light lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. turkey dishes, and things like pork chops with honey. Move

Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com November 2010 - April 2011