Speleothem Repair Supplies and Equipment Jim C
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Part 4-Repair: Werker-Repair Supplies and Equipment 451 Section A-Introducing Speleothem Repair Speleothem Repair Supplies and Equipment Jim C. Werker Based on some of the information describing cave-safe repair materials in the previous chapter, this is a general supply and equipment list for speleothem repair projects. Battery-operated power tools are required for many cave repairs. If electricity is available, standard power tools and industrial extension cords may be preferred. The tools and supplies included here provide a starting point for making site-specific lists. All items are not required for every job. Equipment Tips A battery-powered drill with a steel bit is sullicient to drill holes in me- dium-sized speleothems with diameters up to 4 inches (10 centimeters). For large speleothem repairs, the Hilti" battery-driven hammer drill is capable of drilling larger diameter holes to a greater depth to accommodate large stabilization rods. Take special care to avoid shattering the speleothem. The hammer function should not be used on small speleothems-a hammer drill Figure I. If a speleo- will definitely shatter any small pieces. them repair needs Small battery-powered drills with steel or concrete bits work okay for increased stabilization drilling speleothems. Carbon steel bits last longer. However, regular steel, and strength, use a straight-shank twist drill bits are consistently marc successful. When using stainless steel all-thread the hammer function, it is important to use bits designated for hammer drills. support pin. Epoxy the Have an assistant hold a large zip-closure bag under the drill to catch the pin into the upper part of a broken speleothem. A drill dust. Use a can of compressed air to blow the dust out of the hole and larger hole in the mating into the zippie. There are two reasons to catch and retain speleothem drill section will easily accept dust and powder from drilling the holes for support pins. the pin. Half-fill the larger hole with epoxy. Drill dust is the best media to mix with epoxy for color- matching. Capturing the dust prevents it from becoming a powdery mess in the cave passage. A hard-bristled toothbrush and pocketknife are handy for digging out compacted dust frnm damp drill holes. Some sites also need to be protected from repair operations with large drop cloths, nylon tarps, or plastic sheeting. Large plastic bags can be spread out as staging areas. However, in some caves, the plastic becomes very slick if the repair crew walks on it. Think,plan,and preparefor 452 Cave Conservation and Restoration safety as well as cleanup procedures. Equipment and Materials List Adhesives Approved archival-grade epoxy. Epon' 828 epoxy resin and Versamid'" or Epi-cure" 3234 (TETA) curing agents are recommended. Use Versamid 40 catalyst for dry or humid applications or Versamid 25 catalyst for wet or dripping applications. Epi-cure 3234 is replacing the Versamid prodocts. Mix Epon 828 with Epi-cure 3234 in varying ratios All glues break depending on the conditions. Standard mix is 12: I, twelve parts Epon down over time, but 828 to one part Epi-cure 3234. Both Epon and Epi-cure are made by archival products are the Shell' Chemical Company. Approved museum-quality pure cyanoacrylate adhesive. Hot Stuff" formulated to do Super T, Special T, NCF-Mild Accelerator, and a cyanoacrylate solvent less harm than those are recommended. on the general Mixing cups for epoxy. Plastic specimen or medication cups provide market. measurement lines for quantities of resin and hardener. Craft sticks for mixing and applying epoxy. Disposable dental tools also work well. Paintbrush for applying epoxy. Usually 1/2-inch (12.5-millimeter) width works best. Surgical gloves or vinyl gloves. Nonlatex, powder-free gloves are best. Lint-free rags or disposable towels. Clean up as you go. Small bottle of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Use alcohol to clean and dry the mating ends of speleothems. EasJ.-to~opcrate cigarette lighter. Avoid leaving dark residue on the speleothems ifusing a lighter to dry the mating ends. Do not overheat the speleothem pieces. Lightly dry only the broken surfaces-just enough for the adhesive to bond. ,Mortar and pestle. Pulverize rocks for the epoxy mix. Or use a thick plastic or metal bowl with rounded bottom and a ball-peen hammer for crushing rock. Drill and Pin Stainless steel all-thread. Usually 3/16-inch or 114-inch (4- to 6- millimeter) diameter is sufficient for supporting small to medium speleothems. Hacksaw. Cut the stainless all-thread to useful lengths. Cut PVC pipes. The ridges of Magic Markers'. Thick, black indelible markers work best. Cut the tip stainless all-thread off and position it in the center of two mating pieces to leave a guide grab and adhere mark for drilling. belter than pins Pencils. Make pencil tick marks across joint alignments to assure a quick fit after applying the adhesive. made from regular Electric drill. Use straight-shank twist drill bits. Bits made of carbon- round-stock steel will last longer. stainless. Hammer drill for large formation repair. Find bits suitable for hammer drills. Ilrcmel1\l tool \"ith grinder and sander attachments. Use for texturing and finishing. Canned air. Blow dust otT surfaces and out of declivities. Small sponge. Clean up drill dust. Q-tips". Clean up drill dust. Small, soft paintbrush. Clean up drill dust. Toothbrush. Clean up drill dust. Drop cloths. Size depends on the repair job. Part4-Repair: Werker-Repair Supplies and Equipment 453 Catching and Saving Speleothem Drill Dust Figures I and 2. Large trash bags will easily capture most drill dust. Ifthe powder is needed for filling cracks, gaps. or drill holes, capture and save it in a Ziploc. Figure 3. Compressed air in a can is handy for remov- Figure 4. Toothbrushes are good tools to carry in spe- ing drill dust if the dust can be captured in a plastic bag. leothem repair kits. Use a toothbrush to clear the drill dust from large drill holes and to aid in the final cleanup of repair sites. Plastic ~arbage hags. Use for trash. drill dust, and surface protection. Large Ziploe' hag. Collect drill dust to use in epoxy and rock powder mixtures. Goggles. \Vear eye protection. Support and Brace Drill dust is the best \Vire. A~sorted gauges of stainless, copper, and bailing wire are handy. media to mix with \Virc-cuttcrs. epoxy for color- Pliers. Take both needle-nose and flat. matching. Capturing Small files. Both nat and round are useful. Pockct knife or Lcatherman1\;. the dust prevents it Inner tube. Use bicycle inner tube cut into various widths as large from becoming a rubber bands. powdery mess in the Light hungec cords. Sometimes bun gees are useful for pulling tension cave passage. on the curing break joint of a leaning speleothem. Rubber hands. Include a variety of widths and lengths. PVC pipe. Determine diameter and length by size and shape of broken 454 Cave Conservation and Restoration speleothems. Assorted dimensions are useful. Shims and wedges. Wood, metal, or plastic-various sizes from tooth- picks to blocks. Small jacks. Hydraulic jacks and scissors jacks work equally well. Duct tape. Assists and Safety Structural steel, pipe, lumber, and chains. Build structures to move and support large cave fonnations. Select materials to make scaffold- ing, gantries. frames, and A-frames. (See specialized mechanical assist devices, pages 487-490.) Clamping devices. Clamps are useful only for clamping boards or other bracing devices to mechanical assist apparatus. C-clamps, hose clamps, and other clamping devices should not be applied directly to speleothems. Come-along and chain hoist. Flagging tape. Delineate safety zones and speleothem repairs that need time to cure. Use nonbiodegradable flagging tape in caves..