EAST LONDON RECORD RECORD Editor: Co1m Kerrigan
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EAST LONDON HISTORY SOCIETY PROGRAMME 1989-90 1989 Sat 9 Sep Sylvia and Friends: walk in the footsteps Bow Road District 2 p.m. of Sylvia Pankhurst and the East London Line Station Suffragettes, led by Rosemary Taylor Wed 25 Oct Annual General Meeting followed by Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. Members Evening Wed 22 Nov Jews and the East End Hospital Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. — Gerry Black Wed 6 Dec The origins of London — Charles Poulsen Queen Mary College 7 .30 p.m. 1990 Wed 24 Jan Growing up between the Wars Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. — Robert Barltrop Wed 21 Feb Writing a local history: Stepney and the Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. Victoria County History — Patricia Croot Wed 7 Mar From over the seas: Foreign sailors ashore Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. in the Royal Docks — Howard Bloch Wed 4 Apr Free for All: Woolwich Ferry services since Queen Mary College 7.30 p.m. the Middle Ages — Julian Watson The East London History Society (founded 1952) exists to further interest in the history of East London, namely the London Boroughs of Tower Hamlets, Hackney and Newham. EAST LONDON 1.90 ISSN 0 141-6286 RECORD Printed by Aldermans of Ipswich No. 12 1989 EAST LONDON EAST LONDON RECORD RECORD Editor: Co1m Kerrigan The East London History Society publishes the East London Record once a No. 12 1989 year. We welcome articles on any aspect of the history of the area that forms OrANTPriVrrrC the London boroughs of Hackney , Tower Hamletc , and NPwhnnt Articles •-•,-1111 1,11 1 should be sent to the editor at 38 Ridgdale Street, Bow, London E3 2TW. 2 Discovery in the East End Numbers 1-7 (1978-1984) of the East London Record are out of print, but David Herbert Leaback photocopies can be made for £2.25 per issue, including postage. Back copies of numbers 8-11 (1985-1988) arc available as follows: 17 The Story of The Old Five Bells Number 8 (1985) £1.25 plus 30p post and packing Rosemary Taylor Number 9 (1986) £1.30 plus 30p post and packing Number 10 (1987) £1.50 plus 30p post and packing 21 A Bethnal Green Childhood Number 11 (1988) £1.80 plus 30p post and packing Sam Vincent These and further copies of the present issue (£1.90 plus 30p post and packing) are available from the circulation manager, Mrs. D. Kendall. 20 Puteaux 29 Anglo-Catholic Socialist Clergy in House, Cranbrook Estate, London E2 ORF. Cheques should be made payable East London 1870-1970 to the East London History Society. Kenneth Leech We are grateful for the assistance of Tower Hamlets Libraries for support in 38 Notes and News the production and distribution of this magazine, and to the following people, without whose help this issue could not have been produced: Mr. H. Bloch, 40 Book Reviews Mrs. V. Crouch, Mr. J. Curtis, Mr. A. H. French, Mrs. D. Kendall, Mrs. J. Kerrigan, Mi. C. Lloyd, Mr. D. Mander, Ms. C. Merion, Mrs. J. Page, Mrs. R. C. J. Lloyd, A. Sansom, H. Watton, J. Curtis, H. D., Taylor, Mr. H. Watton and Mr. D. Webb. Behr, A. H. French, D. Webb, D. Kendall, D. Mander, S. Reed, H. Joseph, G. Gunn 47 Some recent items relating to East London Cover illustration: This shows a view of the 1960s looking south down King David Lane, Shadwell. The shop on the left (No. I), was a pharmacy from soon after it was built in the 1840s and remained so until just before it was demolished in 1970. The 'Crooked Billet' public house on the right (No. 43) was built about 1852 on the site of an older pub of the same name. No. 3, King David Lane was the birthplace of the eminent scientist, Sir William Henry Perkin, who is the subject of the first article in this issue. Copyright for this picture, and for all the illustrations accompanying the article 'Discovery in the East End' is reserved with D. H. Leaback. © East London History Society and contributors DISCOVERY IN THE EAST END A personal account of discovery against a seemingly very ordinary East End background. David Herbert Leaback PROMINENT among my earliest memories are the visits we made before the war to my grandparents in the East End of London. Every second Sunday, after the mid-day meal, my father, my mother, my younger brother and I set out on the trek to my father's parents in Bromley by Bow. And trek it was, for while the distance involved was not much above four miles, we had to cross two areas of docklands and a Thames still busy with river traffic. Furthermore, my father was frequently out of work in those difficult years of the 1930s, so every mile we walked saved bus fares we could often ill afford. Our route to Bow is still indelibly marked in my mind by 'interest milestones' put there by a mother anxious to distract, and to keep us going. For instance, near the canal bridge on the Old Kent Road, we listened for crickets in the otherwise silent sawmill and at Rotherhithe we looked fo p the flags and pennants on the ships in the Surrey Commercial Docks — as well as A view of the 1960s looking N.W. (from point0 on the map), towards 165 Turners Road, Bromley, those on the Scandinavian Churches near the entrance to the Tunnel. and the Robeson Street arch of the (early 1850s) Blackwall Extension Railway. Through the Tunnel we normally rode one of the ricketty old solid-tyred buses that still plied the route. My father told me that they were like ones in which he had gone to France during the Great War, and that they had been his had once tangled the legs of a carthorse, with unpleasant consequences for kept on here, because the Tunnel's kerbs punished pneumatic tyres so badly. all. The last of our 'interest milestones' was on the curve of St. Paul's Road, At Christmas, however, family arrangements somehow dictated that we set where my brother and I frequently hung back, searching among the litter for out for Bow after the bus services had finished — so then our walking `Games Gum' wrappers bearing coupons for free gifts — but we were often included the tedious length of the Tunnel itself. I can still conjure up the hurried on by the unpleasant smells from the nearby sewer vent-pipe, or by peculiar sounds of the Tunnel of those Christmas days of long ago — when our parents anxious to reach our destination at the other end of Turners the occasional approaching vehicle produced a strangely musical whine, Road. 0 rising gradually to a crescendo, and then receding with the vehicle, to leave us with the ringing echoes of our own footsteps on the Tunnel's narrow I never remember using the front door of the house my grandparents sidewalk. rented, but always entered by the side-door in Robeson Street. There, in the small back sitting room, my stocky, strong-willed grey-haired grandmother At the northern end of the Tunnel lay the drab Shadwell/Limehouse reigned supreme. She expected regular visits from all her six daughters and neighbourhood; where my mother finished her midwifery training when she three surviving sons — or, at least, representatives of their families. Only at first came to London. Here at the bus-stop, we sometimes watched men Christmas did all the family attempt to gather at the house to make merry in man oeuvering massive loads into barges, and I vividly remember pressing the hallowed front parlour, and to sing music hall songs, led by my towering close to my mother as gruff seamen or dockers swung uncertainly by — Uncle Fred wielding top hat and cane in the style of George Robey. singing loudly, and smelling heavily of drink. At other times of the year, there was little to occupy my brother and Across Commercial Road the game was to complete the length of myself at the grandparents. I remember sitting at the fireside with my York (now Yorkshire) Road, before a train of the old Blackwall Extension grandfather, and after his (inevitable) enquiry concerning the progress of 'my Railway could clank and rumble by us — high on its dingy, brick arches. Then studies', he would sometimes tell me of his music-making with a band in into Salmon Lane, we hurried between tall canal walls to a house with a deep, Tredegar Square, or of his work at the Co-op in Leman Street. Now and dark 'area' — for us to gaze down through iron railings into the 'area' again, he would get me foreign stamps for my collection, and once, he gave me decorated with seashells from some far-off shore. Occasionally my father bought shrimps 'for the Old Lady' from a stall in Rhodeswell Road, and he * Numbers within circles indicate locations on the plan (page 5), while invariably pointed out the place where he was brought up and where a hoop of bracketed numbers refer to the NOTES at the end of the article. 2 3 View ty the 1960s looking N.E. from point()on the map, towards the gasworks in Bow Common Lane W. The latter was part of the noxious trades that established themselves on Bow andBromley Commons during the 19th century. This gasworks was an important source of not only gas and coke, but also of coal tar for the nearby distilleries of John Bethell 0 and (later) Laurie, Mott Co.