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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Replica Styles from 1795–1929
Replica Styles from 1795–1929 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing $2.00 AVENDERS L REEN GHistoric Clothing Replica Styles from 1795–1929 Published by Lavender’s Green © 2010 Lavender’s Green January 2010 About Our Historic Clothing To our customers ... Lavender’s Green makes clothing for people who reenact the past. You will meet the public with confidence, knowing that you present an ac- curate picture of your historic era. If you volunteer at historic sites or participate in festivals, home tours, or other historic-based activities, you’ll find that the right clothing—comfortable, well made, and accu- rate in details—will add so much to the event. Use this catalog as a guide in planning your period clothing. For most time periods, we show a work dress, or “house dress.” These would have been worn for everyday by servants, shop girls, and farm wives across America. We also show at least one Sunday gown or “best” dress, which a middle-class woman would save for church, weddings, parties, photos, and special events. Throughout the catalog you will see drawings of hats and bonnets. Each one is individually designed and hand-made; please ask for a bid on a hat to wear with your new clothing. Although we do not show children’s clothing on most of these pages, we can design and make authentic clothing for your young people for any of these time periods. Generally, these prices will be 40% less than the similar adult styles. The prices given are for a semi-custom garment with a dressmaker- quality finish. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Miss Lisa Brown's Guide to Dressing for a Regency Ball – Gentlemen's
MMiissss LLiissaa BBrroowwnn’’ss GGuuiiddee ttoo DDrreessssiinngg ffoorr aa RReeggeennccyy BBaallll –– GGeennttlleemmeenn’’ss EEddiittiioonn (and remove string!) Shave Jane Austen & the Regency face every Wednesday and The term “Regency” refers to years between 1811 Sunday as per regulations. and 1820 when George III of the United Kingdom was deemed unfit to rule and his son, later George Other types of facial hair IV, was installed as his proxy with the title of were not popular and were “Prince Regent”. However, “Regency Era” is often not allowed in the military. applied to the years between 1795 and 1830. This No beards, mustaches, period is often called the “Extended Regency” goatees, soul patches or because the time shared the same distinctive culture, Van Dykes. fashion, architecture, politics and the continuing Napoleonic War. If you have short hair, brush it forward into a Caesar cut style The author most closely associated with the with no discernable part. If your Regency is Jane Austen (1775-1817). Her witty and hair is long, put it into a pony tail engaging novels are a window into the manners, at the neck with a bow. lifestyle and society of the English gentry. She is the ideal connexion to English Country Dancing as Curly hair for both men and each of her six books: Pride and Prejudice , Sense women was favored over straight and Sensibility , Emma , Persuasion , Mansfield Par k hair. Individual curls were made and Northanger Abbey, feature balls and dances. with pomade (hair gel) and curling papers. Hair If you are unable to assemble much of a Regency wardrobe, you can still look the part by growing your sideburns The Minimum and getting a Caesar cut If you wish to dress the part of a country gentleman hairstyle. -
A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835
Virginia Commonwealth University VCU Scholars Compass Theses and Dissertations Graduate School 2010 A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835 Jennifer Lappas Virginia Commonwealth University Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd Part of the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons © The Author Downloaded from https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/2299 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at VCU Scholars Compass. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of VCU Scholars Compass. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 1 The Carter Family Shirley Plantation claims the rightful spot as Virginia’s first plantation and the oldest family-run business in North America. It began as a royal land grant given to Sir Thomas West and his wife Lady Cessalye Shirley in 1613 and developed into the existing estate one can currently visit by 1725. The present day estate consists of the mansion itself and ten additional buildings set along a Queen Anne forecourt. These buildings include a Root Cellar, Pump House, two-story Plantation Kitchen, two story Laundry, Smokehouse, Storehouse with an Ice House below, a second Storehouse for grain, Brick Stable, Log Barn and Pigeon House or Dovecote. At one time the Great House was augmented by a North and a South Flanker: they were two free standing wings, 60 feet long and 24 feet wide and provided accommodations for visitors and guests. The North Flanker burned and its barrel-vaulted basement was converted into a root cellar and the South Flanker was torn down in 1868. -
© 2015 Robert Daiutolo, Jr. All RIGHTS RESERVED
© 2015 Robert Daiutolo, Jr. All RIGHTS RESERVED GEORGE CROGHAN: THE LIFE OF A CONQUEROR by ROBERT DAIUTOLO, JR. A Dissertation submitted to the Graduate School—New Brunswick Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Graduate Program in History Written under the direction of Jan Lewis and approved by _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ New Brunswick, New Jersey October, 2015 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION George Croghan: The Life of a Conqueror By ROBERT DAIUTOLO, JR. Dissertation Director: Jan Lewis This dissertation integrates my own specifying paradigm of “situational frontier” and his- torian David Day’s generalizing paradigm of “supplanting society” to contextualize one historical personage, George Croghan, who advanced the interests of four eighteenth-cen- tury supplanting societies—one nation (Great Britain) and three of its North American colonies (Pennsylvania, New York, and Virginia)—in terms of three fields of endeavor, trade, diplomacy, and proprietorship. Croghan was an Irish immigrant who, during his working life on the “situational frontiers” of North America, mastered the intricacies of intercultural trade and diplomacy. His mastery of both fields of endeavor enabled him not only to create advantageous conditions for the governments of the three colonies to claim proprietorship of swaths of Indian land, but also to create advantageous conditions for himself to do likewise. The loci of his and the three colonies’ claims were the “situa- tional frontiers” themselves, the distinct spaces where particular Indians, Europeans, and Euro-Americans converged in particular circumstances and coexisted, sometimes peace- fully and sometimes violently. His mastery of intercultural trade and diplomacy enabled him as well to create advantageous conditions for Great Britain to claim proprietorship in the Old Northwest (present-day Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Indiana, and Illinois) and for himself to do likewise. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Joseph Smith Period Clothing 145
Carma de Jong Anderson: Joseph Smith Period Clothing 145 Joseph Smith Period Clothing: The 2005 Brigham Young University Exhibit Carma de Jong Anderson Early in 2005, administrators in Religious Education at Brigham Young University gave the green light to install an exhibit (hopefully my last) in the display case adjacent to the auditorium in the Joseph Smith Building. The display would showcase the clothing styles of the life span of the Prophet Joseph Smith and the people around him (1805–1844). There were eleven mannequins and clothing I had constructed carefully over many years, mingled with some of my former students’ items made as class projects. Those pieces came from my teaching the class, “Early Mormon Clothing 1800–1850,” at BYU several years ago. There were also a few original pieces from the Joseph Smith period. During the August 2005 BYU Education Week, thousands viewed these things, even though I rushed the ten grueling days of installation for something less than perfect.1 There was a constant flow of university students passing by and stopping to read extensive signage on all the contents shown. Mary Jane Woodger, associate professor of Church History and Doctrine, reported more young people and faculty paid attention to it than any other exhibit they have ever had. Sincere thanks were extend- ed from the members of Religious Education and the committee plan- ning the annual Sydney B. Sperry October symposium. My scheduled lectures to fifteen to fifty people, two or three times a week, day or night for six months (forty stints of two hours each), were listened to by many of the thirty thousand viewers who, in thank-you letters, were surprised at how much information could be gleaned from one exhibit. -
A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker
LIBRARY v A Dictionary of Men's Wear Works by Mr Baker A Dictionary of Men's Wear (This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50 A Dictionary of Engraving A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c A Dictionary of Advertising In preparation A Dictionary of Men's Wear Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men's wear trades expressiv of raw and =; finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix con- taining sundry useful tables; the uniforms of "ancient and honorable" independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dress, livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of "A Dictionary of Engraving" "A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often." —S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Copyright 1908 By William Henry Baker Cleveland O LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies NOV 24 I SOB Copyright tntry _ OL^SS^tfU XXc, No. Press of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland tf- ?^ Dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 -
Introduction to Foxhunting
The MFHA Foundation Presents Introduction to Foxhunting 4th Edition Written by Lt. Col. Dennis J. Foster Cover Photo by Richard Clay MFHA Foundation Presents Introduction to Foxhunting 4th Edition Written by Lt. Col. Dennis J. Foster © 2012 MFHA Foundation PO Box 363 Millwood, VA 22646 (540) 955-5680 (o) (540) 955-5682 (f) email: [email protected] website: www.mfha.com Table of Contents Preface 3 History 4 Quarry 8 Who We Are: The MFHA in Action 9 Foxhunting 101 12 Foxhunting 102 27 Rules for Field Members 31 Proper Attire 35 Hunting Terms 50 Introduction to Foxhunting 2 Preface “It is the union of man and animal in the beauty of nature’s setting. Mounted men and women are privileged to follow and watch this timeless drama of hunter and hunted. The fox or coyote maneuvers, circles, runs and dodges, trying cunningly to escape the pack. The hounds pursue across plains or through woods, over fields or across creeks, into marshes and over rock walls and fences. All the while, the music of hounds in full cry and the stirring call of the horn echoes through the chase. It’s a crescendo of sounds and sights that thrills you beyond imagination. “Foxhunting is the grand opera of hunting. Mother Nature is the stage manager; baying hounds and hunting horns are the orchestra; pack and prey are the actors. Huntsmen and horses—in front-row Dennis J. Foster, Executive Director of the MFHA seats—make up the audience. As they watch, the plot gradually plays out before them until the prey at last is lost, accounted for or goes to ground. -
The Girl in the Wood Frock
The Girl in the Wood Frock by Andrea Ling A thesis presented to the University of Waterloo in fulfillment of the thesis requirement for the degree of Master of Architecture in Architecture Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, 2007 © Andrea Ling, 2007 Author’s Declaration I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this thesis. This is a true copy of the thesis, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners. I understand that my thesis may be made electronically available to the public. Andrea Ling iii Abstract A GIRL, forced to marry her father after he sees her playing in his dead wife’s wedding gown, runs away wearing five dresses. Four dresses are of silk and they are beautiful. The last dress is of wood. It is in this dress that the girl escapes, throwing herself into the river to float away. A prince saves the girl but treats her badly, for she wears an ugly wood frock. Her suffering is eased at night when the girl takes off the wood dress and dances in her silk ones. The prince discovers the girl in the silk dresses and falls in love. They live happily ever after. This thesis is based on a fairy tale in which a girl’s life is changed by what she wears. In Fair Maiden Wood clothing is a means to identity. Costume is what identifies this girl as her father’s new bride, and it reveals to the shallow prince who his true love is. It is through clothing that we identify the fairy tale. -
Early Historic Culture 165 Clothing the Indians Who Lived in Louisiana Wore Simple Clothing Made from Available Materials
Section33 Early HistoricHistoric Culture As you read, look for: • elements of Native American culture, and • vocabulary terms pirogue and calumet. Below: This painting by When the first Europeans came to Louisiana, the American Indians who were Francois Barnard, “Choctaw living here had a rich culture. Village near the Chefuncte,” provides an opportunity The Village for us to see history through Community life was organized around a tribe or a clan, which was headed the eyes of a person who by a chief or chiefs. Kinship was very important and, along with social class, actually lived it. directed much of a person’s life. 164 Chapter 5 Louisiana’s Early People: Natives and Newcomers Membership in clans was passed through the mother’s side of the family. The Above: The Choctaw played Caddo and the Tunica ranked the clans, with some more powerful than others, ball games as a form of and chiefs chosen only from specific clans. The Natchez had a caste (class) sys- recreation as well as to help tem with several levels. Moving into a higher group was possible through mar- them improve their skills riage, but a person could also lose rank by marriage. The Chitimacha followed a for hunting and war. George true caste system, in which people married only within their own class. Catlin caught the spirit of Children were raised in these groups, often under the care of all the adults. these games in his painting In some tribes, the mother’s brother handled discipline, and the father’s role “Choctaw Ball Game.” was more like a big brother.