Wilds Region Savage River Lodge p. 54 p. 61 p. 66

Eastern Shore Rappahannock County Tilghman Island p. 57 p. 63 p. 69

It’s hard enough to relax. Never mind finding weekend getaways where you’re not lured by your laptop, interrupted by your cell phone or tempted to text the office. Is there anywhere to go where technology doesn’t dictate your day? Such places do exist. They’re remote. They’re rare. But they’re real. They’re also rapidly disappearing. Read on.

52 • September 2008 Six Wi-Fi-free and cell phone-dead destinations where you can really unplug from High Tech to Low Country By Kathryn McKay and Renee Sklarew

Escape Reboot Unplug shutterstock (icons and landscape) (icons shutterstock

September 2008 • 53 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 53 Elk were reintroduced to Wilds Region in the early 20th century.

wilds Pennsylvania region

A century after much of the north-central region ing another soul. Yet as much as the people who of Pennsylvania was dismissed as a wasteland after live here value their privacy, they enjoy educating timber was mined in the early 1900s, the com- visitors about how to enjoy the land. Each of the monwealth christened the land the Great Wilds region’s 12 counties is represented by a visitors Region in 2003. Cell-phone service is as scarce bureau that provides information on the parks, as people in this rustic sanctuary that covers two trails, attractions and events in that county. million acres. That’s larger than Connecticut, If the Wilds Region had a mascot, it would Rhode Island and Vermont combined, or about be the majestic elk. Eastern elk roamed freely seven-and-a-half times the size of Fairfax County. throughout the region until hunting and logging The area boasts 185 miles of mountain streams, wiped out the herds. When the forests started 29 state parks and eight state forests. There aren’t to grow back in the early 20th century, the state any fancy restaurants or luxury hotels. Most visi- introduced Rocky Mountain elk. After some fits tors camp out, rent a cabin or stay in a small bed and starts, 800 elk now roam freely, and the state and breakfast. remains committed to these creatures. A flannel shirt, jeans and boots will get you ev- Unlike their smaller cousins, the white-tailed erywhere you need to go. This is a place for watch- deer that are ubiquitous in Northern Virginia, elk ing, wondering and walking. For fishing, hiking usually don’t bolt when you drive by. Pavilions, and hunting. For bird-watching and stargazing. It’s information booths and bright yellow elk signs the kind of place where you can have a mountain are scattered across Elk County, with the largest

all to yourself and hike for a day without see- concentration of the species near the village of shutterstock A54 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Pine Creek Gorge is surrounded Potter County offers some of the by 165,000 acres of forest. best skies for gazing on the East.

With a population of 300, elk outnumber people for most of the year, but the mating season in September and October attracts tens of thousands of people to the area.

Benezette. With a population of 300, elk outnum- footpath followed by trains carrying timber to ber people for most of the year, but the mating sawmills is a 60-mile trail with only two-percent season in September and October attracts tens of gradation for hiking, biking, riding horses, roller- thousands of people to the area. blading or any form of transportation that’s mo- This distinctive sound of male elks “bugling” to tor-free. Canoe access points are scattered along attract females can be heard from miles away. “It the creek, and beginning rock-climbers appreciate seems almost prehistoric,” said Rawley Cogan of the cliffs with bolted routes and flat landing zones. the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. “It starts as a After a day of activity, some people head down groan and ends in a high-pitch whistle.” to Cherry Springs State Park in Potter County for Males or bulls can weigh as much as 900 a 360-degree view of the sky in one of the darkest pounds and grow antlers as long as 5 feet. “Their places on the East Coast. Others stay in Tioga tissue is the fastest growing known to man,” County for dinner in the town of Wellsboro, where Cogan said. “If our limbs healed like their anglers gas lanterns line the main street and cell phones grew, you could break your leg, and it would heal do receive signals. in a day.” s state park) park) sprin g s state g e and cherry Elk are hunted the first weekend in November. “We have 40 tags, or chances, and about 30,000 people apply,” said Janet Colwell, a local guide. To prepare for more tourists interested in elk, a visi- tors center is scheduled to open in 2009. Elk don’t roam in Pine Creek Gorge in Tioga County, but bald eagles, bobcats and river otters live in this 50-mile gap in the land. Dubbed the “Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania,” the gorge can reach up to 1,450 feet deep. And unlike the real Grand Canyon, it is surrounded by 165,000 acres Escape of forest. From caps to socks and photographs to figurines,

g or dcnr (pine creek of P ennsylvania courtesy Where the Seneca Indians once formed a almost everything is elk at the mom-and-pop Elk

www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 55 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 55 Wondering why, when you travel through some re- Country Store owned by the Rowes. 23154 Quehanna mote areas, you lose your signal? The AT&T website Highway, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-4460. provides this caveat: “Actual cell-phone coverage area may be affected by terrain, weather, foliage, Everything from soaps and lip gloss to fine buildings and construction, signal strength, customer wooden bowls and tables are handmade, mostly equipment and other factors.” Verizon, Sprint and by local artists, at the Artisan’s Shoppe. 17 Crafton T-Mobile offer similar explanations for why travelers St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-5166; www.artisans- reach “dead zones,” or places where the signal for shoppe.com. sending and receiving calls is obstructed. alexa Kaufman, spokesperson for AT&T Wireless explained how coverage patterns work: “It costs a lot to build cell sites, and the process occurs over time. First, we covered the major cities, then travel corridors like I-95, and now we’re reaching out to the rural suburbs. We’re going where the popula- tions are first.” John Johnson, from Verizon Wireless, Disconnected Reboot By Renee Sklarew Elk antlers, a snakeskin and a mountain lion with blinking yellow eyes adorn the walls at the Medix concurred but cautioned, “Where can you unplug on Hotel, where elk burgers and steak are best- vacation? It is probably harder finding areas without sellers. 23155 Quehanna Highway, Weedville, Pa.; signal coverage than finding ways to set limits about 814-787-5920. when you are available.” Connectivity is growing across the Eastern Seaboard, but here are some Everyone is addressed as “honey” at the comfy escapes where your coverage may be spotty at best. Wellsboro Diner, open since 1939. Pies made by the same baker for 20 years often sell out before Clarity and reception dinner. 19 Main St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-3992; Dead Zone, diminished due to limited net- Complete coverage, no service area, work service and interference networks offer a www.wellsborodiner.com. no transmitters from topography strong, clear signal

0 5 10

Wilds Region, Pa. 5 Eastern Shore, Va. 8 Savage River Lodge, Md. Unplug 10 At Wapiti Woods, cook in or outside five cabins Rappahannock, Va. with full kitchens. Two add romance to the rustic setting with whirlpools fit for a couple.5186 River 2 Road, Route 555, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-7525; www. Potomac Highlands, W. Va. wapitiwoods.com.—KM 0 Tilghman Island, Md. 5

Cell-phone coverage in each region varies depending on the netWork. Verizon has penetrated more of these regions than AT&T, Sprint, Cellular One, Nextel and T-Mobile, but no phone subscribers will find a signal in mountainous areas.

56 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Harbors that dot Chincoteague’s Chincoteague Refuge’s KOA shore are characteristically calm. grounds offer dirt-cheap lodging.

eastern Virginia shore

The Eastern Shore of Virginia remains pasto- the Barrier Islands and, finally,Kiptopeke State ral and unoccupied compared to the rest of the Park—until you reach the 17.9-mile Chesapeake Delmarva Peninsula. It’s recognized by the United Bay Bridge-Tunnel leading to Norfolk. Nations as a “biosphere reserve” and has one of The Bridge-Tunnel itself is a marvel. It barely the last wetland habitats in the world. The largest skirts over the bay, going above water and then coastal wilderness on the Eastern Seaboard of the under it. At times you’re driving alongside fishing United States, this narrow finger of land separates boats or straight toward a container ship. the Chesapeake Bay from the Atlantic Ocean. Thousands of years ago, this peninsula was Traveling south on Route 13, the only major inhabited by the Algonquin tribes. Proof of the highway on the peninsula, you will pass protected tribe’s fondness for seafood are the ancient shell

shutterstock environments—Chincoteague, Wallops Island, middens, refuse of shellfish-harvesting, buried

T www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 57 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 57 Between towns lie miles of flat marshes, Fairfax County naturalist and historian Tony Bulmer, 40, of Nokesville, makes year-round and in parts the land is only trips to Virginia’s Eastern Shore. “Winter is an three miles across, huddled between amazing time to visit. That’s when you see the snow geese, red-throated loons, all the winter two colossal bodies of water. birds that nest in the Arctic.” The Shore boasts some of its own “green” citizens, who consciously maintain a small carbon footprint. Tessa Brown, 46, works for the thriving Blue Crab Bay Company in Melfa, which along the creek beds there. Native-American donates some of its profit to protect the environ- influence is seen in the names of the villages and ment. Manufacturing gourmet food and gifts, the tributaries. The translation for Chesapeake is this homegrown company was originally known “great shellfish bay.” for clam and crab dips. Lisa Traynor, 53, of Chincoteague, said people Like many locals, Brown grew up here but left commonly ride bikes to work. “The speed limit is to pursue life in a city. Besides missing the quiet 25 mph. It’s safe to pedal anywhere.” Asked about and soothing calm of the region, she was drawn cell-phone coverage, she raved: “It’s not great, but back by the sunsets. “There are only a few places I love that fact.” I’ve been where you can see the sun set over the The towns, founded in the late 1600s, are water. I call it God’s little garden by the sea.” sparsely populated. Ernestine Smith, 76, resident She returned a few years ago. “The nickname for of Belle Haven laughed, “The phone book for the people like me is a ‘come-back-here.’” whole Virginia shore is half an inch thick!” The Inside the Blue Crab Bay gift shop, pungent small villages are a picture book of architectural spices arrest your senses while you admire the treasures. Homes are Victorian clapboard, streets nautical decorations in every corner. Owner have old brick sidewalks; both are flanked by lush Pamela Barefoot, 57, collects organic materials gardens and picket fences. Between towns lie from the beaches to create her seaweed soaps, miles of flat marshes, and in parts the land is only and the cozy store’s food samples boast “the three miles across, huddled between two colossal everyday taste of the Eastern Shore.” Their Crab bodies of water. House Crunch is an extraordinary combination of Tourism is an important source of revenue. sea salt, vanilla and zesty red pepper, somewhat Most accommodations along these country roads reminiscent of Old Bay seasoning. are diminutive inns advertising themselves as “a Barefoot recommends stopping for brunch at great place to read a book.” A low-tech utopia, the The Inn & Garden Cafe in Onancock (open on natural environment draws you outside to explore weekends only) for the grilled shrimp, smoked its treasures: eco-tours off the coast of Wa- salmon and homemade bread. Their menu in- chapreague Thomas Gardens cludes sausage-encrusted oysters and lobster or ’ rare and unusual o mm ission plants in New Church. ravioli with lump crab. After your meal, walk down to the Onancock Harbor before sunset to spot dazzlingly pink skies. ouris m C

g inia T

Escape The Crazy Lady is a favorite store in downtown Chincoteague. Fun, imaginative women’s cloth- ing at reasonable prices. 4101 Main St., Chincoteague

Island, Va.; 757-336-6005. S hore of V ir E astern perrucci/ of dorothy courtesy

58 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Blue Crow Antique Mall in Keller (south of Onan- cock) is a giant warehouse stocked with antiques and collectibles supplied by 150 dealers and local artists. The prices are reasonable, and the items are kitsch. Start in the art gallery in the back, and look for pieces from well-known local artists like Vesna Vidovec and Jose Dovis. 32124 Lankford Highway, Keller, Va.; 757-442-4150.

Reboot Yellow Duck Bakery in Exmore is perhaps best known for its homemade muffins and locally roasted coffee. 3312 Main St., Exmore, Va.; 757-442- 5909; www.yellowduckcafe.com.

No matter where you’re seated at The Island House, you’re guaranteed a spectacular view. Order the fresh seafood. 17 Atlantic Ave., Wa- “It’s a good place to ditch your cell phone,” said Larry chapreague, Va.; 757-787-4242; www.wachapreague. Knudsen, 70, keeper of Snow Hill, Md.’s The River com/theislandhouse.html. House Inn, sponsor of Inn Tours—bike excursions between lodges lining Maryland’s and Virginia’s Eastern Shores. Families take Inn Tour vacations to explore this secluded 70-mile neck of land. “When you’re riding along you see lots of farms and water, stands of timber and wildlife,” Knudsen said. according to Bethesda cyclist Gerald Johnston, 70, “We go on back roads, and you rarely see a car.” Johnston also rides with Carolina Tailwinds, another Eastern Shore operator. “I use the trips to motivate myself to keep in shape year-round.” the Between the Waters Bike Tour is a Wa- Unplug chapreague October fundraiser that benefits the The Charlotte Hotel is an upscale B&B with Eu- Nature Conservancy by way of an eco-tourism event ropean flair, including friendly hosts, charming that gives riders the opportunity to see the region. rooms, gourmet meals and excellent location–four blocks from the harbor. Owner’s art gallery is next door. 7 North St., Onancock, Va.; 757-787-7400; www. thecharlottehotel.com Tour de Shore By Renee Sklarew For more rustic digs, hunker down at the KOA Kampgrounds of America, located in the Chin- According to Denard Spady, director of Citizens for coteague National Wildlife Refuge. Observe the a Better Eastern Shore, “Routes are loops, winding wild ponies in natural splendor. KOA also has along back roads, with scenic rest stops and views an in-ground pool and a beautiful beach, though of barrier islands.” Between the Waters Bike Tour, during some seasons the mosquito population www.cbes.org; Inn Tours, www.inntours.com; Carolina

shutterstock can be high. Tailwinds, www.carolinatailwinds.com.

www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 59 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 59 Time stands still at the Savage River Lodge, where phone signals are unwelcome.

60 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com savage Maryland river lodge

Upon arrival at Savage River Lodge in Frostburg, wraparound porch sits camouflaged among the Md., don’t count on the wall clocks to check the trees. Inside, old Maryland license plates, snow- time. None of them work, or will anytime soon. shoes, family photographs and timepieces adorn “We want time to stand still here,” said Mike the walls, but the see-through fireplace is the big- Dreisbach, 58, who owns and operates the rustic gest attraction. A 75-seat restaurant and confer- establishment with his wife, Jan Russell. ence rooms for meetings round out the back. The route to this vacation destination moves A five-minute walk down the road, 18 identical from a highway with a limit of 65 mph to a narrow cabins are arranged in the shape of a horseshoe. country lane with a speed of 35 to a mile-and-a- A gas-fired, cast-iron stove, chairs, tables and half-long gravel road, where all cars slow to 15. sleeper sofa are below an open loft with a queen Speed bumps aren’t necessary; there are enough bed covered by a thick down comforter and plush potholes to avoid more than the lightest touch on pillows. There are no televisions or radios. In the the gas pedal. morning, freshly squeezed juice in a jelly jar and “People ask all the time when we’re going to pave warm muffins in a basket are delivered with the the road,” Dreisbach said. “The answer is never. The local paper. road is unpaved on purpose.” Activities revolve around nature. There’s no There’s no desire to pave the road. Or fix the tennis court, swimming pool or golf course. The clocks. And if cell-phone service ever does reach most popular activity is hiking. Two color-coded all the way to the lodge? “We’ll put up a scram- trails wind around the property. “We call them the Ug e g e river lod bler,” Dreisbach promised. inner and outer loops for the people from North- Landlocked in 45 acres of private property sur- ern Virginia and D.C.,” Dreisbach joked. rounded by 700 acres of state forest in Garrett Without driving, a plethora of cell phone-free County, “we’re like a doughnut hole,” Dreisbach said. activities are available, including snowshoeing,

courtesy of sava courtesy Within that hole, the towering lodge with the cross-country skiing, fishing for trout, gathering

www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 61 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 61 Escape Watch glasses, bowls, vases and even Christmas trees being hand blown behind Simon Pearce, an upscale glass shop. 265 Glass Drive, Mountain Lake Park, Md.; 800-774-5277; www.simonpearce.com.

Meet the Spruce Forest Artisan Guild at the village where members work in cabin-like studios. 177 Casselman Road, Grantsville, Md.; 301-895-3332; www. The best fly-fishing spots and bike paths spruceforest.org. along the C&O Canal Towpath are in cell phone-free zones.

round a campfire and geocaching (treasure-hunt- ing with GPS). Just before the trees bud in March, Dreisbach welcomes guests to make their own maple syrup. Reboot Within 40 minutes of the lodge, the surround- Pine Lodge Steakhouse and Saloon’s dining-room ing area offers more low-tech things to do. The views of Deep Creek Lake contrast with the bar best fly-fishing spots and bike paths along the scene, where sports fans catch up on scores. 1520 C&O Canal Towpath are in cell phone-free zones. Deep Creek Drive, McHenry, Md.; 301-387-6500; www. “I can put you on a route where you can brag that pinelodgesteakhouse.com. you biked 16 miles without even breaking a sweat,” Dreisbach said. Crab cakes are favorites at Cornish Manor Restau- Nearby, Maryland’s only ski resort, Wisp, offers rant, located in a historic home built in 1868 as a skiing, boarding, tubing, snowshoeing, mobiling D.C. judge’s summer retreat. 830 Memorial Drive, and sleighs. Oakland, Md.; 301-334-6499; www.cornishmanor.net. For an old-fashioned treat, pull up alongside horses and buggies at the Amish auctions in Som- erset County, Pa. “It’s complete with a caller, and bidders who hold up numbered paddles,” Dreisbach described. “You bid on what’s in season, whether it’s peaches or pumpkins. Anything is possible.” In Garrett County, Amish farmer Ray Miller, who Dreisbach jokingly calls “new” Amish because he uses electricity and drives a tractor, takes tour- ists on sleigh rides, hayrides or carriage rides, de- pending on the weather. Miller sometimes serves as an unofficial spokesperson for the community. Unplug “I don’t mind questions,” he said. “Sometimes, I Savage River Lodge, as described above. 1600 Mt. ask them, too.” Aetna Drive, Frostburg, Md.; 301-689-3200; www.

You could inquire as to his cell phone. savageriverlodge.com.—KM shutterstock

62 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Shenandoah National Park’s Blue Ridge Mountains flank the border of one of Virginia’s most scenic counties. Rappahannock County Virginia

No stoplights. No fast food restaurants. No na- of stars. Now celebrating its 30th year, the restau- tional hotels. No shopping malls or strip centers. rant has won five James Beard Awards, which is Virtually nonexistent cell-phone service. Not even like an actor reaping five Academy Awards. a supermarket or a drugstore. Here, marriage proposals are routine. But if the Sixty-five miles west of Washington, D.C., idea of perusing a 70-page wine list or paying sev- Rappahannock County, Va., could be well known eral hundred dollars for dinner doesn’t appeal to for what it lacks if it wasn’t for one famous place your salary or sensibilities, there’s plenty of other and one fabulous park. things to do in Rappahannock. The Inn at Little Washington is renowned and Shenandoah National Park hugs the western revered as one of the finest places to dine and stay border of the county, where the Blue Ridge Moun- in the world. Reviewers consistently award its ac- tains are usually 10 degrees cooler than the valley

shutterstock commodations and cuisine the maximum number below. A trip up Old Rag Mountain, accessible

N www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 63 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 63 through Sperryville, is one of the most challeng- Often called the “Sonoma County ing yet popular hikes in the state, as it serves as a backdrop for scenic views throughout Virginia. of the East,” Rappahannock’s The hospitality of the Inn and the natural beauty of the park permeate a casual elegance wineries and organic farms rest on throughout this romantic, rural sanctuary. “While hilly roads. Some farmers will even counties around us continue to grow in the double digits, our population remains at 7,000,” said Bar- sell fresh eggs and meat bara Adolfi, psychotherapist and innkeeper of the to individuals. House on Water Street in Sperryville. “We’re this little oasis of peace and beauty.” Often called the “Sonoma County of the East,” Rappahannock’s wineries and organic farms rest on hilly roads. Some farmers will even sell fresh eggs and meat to individuals. Adams is one of about 50 artists who partici- Charming tiny towns are lined with art gal- pate in the annual Rappahannock Studio and Gal- leries, restaurants and cafes; antique shops and lery Tour. During the first weekend in November, boutiques are sprinkled throughout the region. In more than 15 studios and 10 galleries show new the town of Washington, surveyed by the general work in a wide variety of media, including paint- himself, a jeweler makes everything on site. Sper- ings, sculpture, pottery, glassworks, forged iron- ryville, a bit less formal than Washington, offers work, jewelry, textiles and photography. Several the Glassworks Gallery with blown glass made on local artists, including sculptor Jeanne Drevas and the premises and more antique markets, including blacksmith Nol Putnam are nationally recognized Copper Fox in a converted apple-picking plant as in their fields. large as a football field. All year, Rappahannock’s wineries offer tastings. Rappahannock’s requirement that new residents At Gadino Cellars, visitors can sign up to harvest must purchase at least 25 acres of land to live in grapes—even stomp on the rejects with their bare the county attracts “people who want privacy and feet—usually sometime between mid-September quality space to pursue their interests,” said Kevin and early October. Adams, an innkeeper and painter. Each of Rappahannock’s bed and breakfasts of- fer something different. In the century-old House on Water Street, Adolfi’s packages include cooking with foraged foods and photography classes. In Foster Adults aren’t the only ones interested in leaving the addition to a four-course breakfast, the Harris House Tour d’Epicure technical world behind when they go on vacation. Even in Washington runs , the most plugged-in generation ever is seeking a break. which combines cycling and fine cuisine. “We shutterstock Mark Wiser, a former vice president for Club Med who helped develop programs for teens, was quoted in The New York Times as saying, “We thought the num- ber one thing was video games. We asked teens and they said, ‘I’m on vacation.’ The idea of sitting in a room Unplugging the Whole Family By Kathryn McKay

with a video game was not their idea of a vacation.” indeed teens, like adults, are often trading their com- puters for carpentry tools when they’re away. Combin- ing a trip with helping others is catching on.

64 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com can ride for an hour and only see three cars,” said owner John MacPherson. And at Belle Meade, eggs may have been laid minutes before breakfast. Most of the establishments can arrange for a number of luxury services, including visits with local mes- sage therapists. If rest, relaxation and romance still manage to elude you in Rappahannock, schedule a meeting with local herbalist Teresa Boardwine, who teaches an aphrodisiac class. Unplug Baked goods are made fresh at Hopkins Ordinary. The morning coffee comes from the roaster just down the road, and should be enjoyed on the B&B’s wraparound porches. 47 Main St., Sperryville, Va.; 540-987-3383; www.hopkinsordinary.com.—KM

Escape French linens sell best at R. H. Ballard Art, Rug and Home—but the lithographs and fine gifts crafted by local artists at this Southern Living top-50 shop are worth a peek, as well. 307 Main St., Washington, Va.; 540-675-1411; 866-503-3349; www.rhballard.com.

Dalmatian-print aprons, stuffed animals and kids’ overalls lead to smiles and sales at The Inn at Little Washington’s Tavern Shops, directly across the street from the restaurant. Middle and Main Streets, Washington, Va.; 540–675–3800; www.theinnatlittle- washington.com. We can benefit from even a weekend away from our noisy lives, said Ann Oyler, audiologist at the American Speech-Language Hearing Association. “The damage from noise can be cumulative. Even our ‘health clubs’ and children’s toys are getting louder.” But the sounds of silence might not be so Do You Hear Reboot What I Hear? By Kathryn McKay Darts, fish ‘n chips and eight beers on tap make the Griffin Tavern feel like a genuine English pub. 659 Zachary Taylor Highway, Flint Hill, Va.; 540-675- quiet after all. Away from your computer, your cell 3227; www.griffintavern.com. phone and your iPod, you might notice the percus- sion of a woodpecker, the wind whistling through If Thornton River Grille is the precursor dinner the trees, or your spouse’s whisper. “When farmers destination for one of the finest restaurants in the leave a field fallow for a year, the soil is enriched, world, you know it must be excellent. Routes 522 and the plants grow better,” said Kay Lindahl, and 211, Sperryville, Va.; 540-987-8790; www.thornton- author of “The Sacred Art of Listening.” “Our minds

shutterstock rivergrille.com. and souls are like that, too.”

www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 65 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 65 The quartzite formation of looms at 900 feet.

potomac higlands

“Oh my, it’s cold.” narrow for parents to clutch a child’s hand, in- “What’s the temperature?” trepid visitors cross the bridge single file to reach “Cold.” the shore. Locals from Highland County, Va., know the Children in their inflatable dinghies float across Bullpasture River Gorge is a perfect place to cool the meandering river to scale the boulders on the off: In spring, the water rages as melting snow other side. While you’re resting in the clearing cuts through mossy rock walls, creating mini-rap- with one eye on the kids, a friendly dragonfly ids and swimming holes, and returning to a gentle lands on your head. Others in the welcoming com- ramble by late summer. Giant scarlet maples, mittee include beaver, trout and a huge variety of gnarly sycamores and blooming hemlocks flank birds. Highland County is known to bird-watching both sides of the body of water, visually blocking enthusiasts as an ideal place to set up camp. it from the road above. Some folks test the rope swing, which drops Here, whether you plan to swim or fly-fish, down into the deepest part of the river. Two you must first summon your courage to cross the strokes from the center, the water becomes shal- weather-beaten suspension bridge made of rotting low enough to wade back to shore. Later, a walk

wooden planks to enter the ravine. Almost too down the narrow path through the woods brings shutterstock “O66 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Dark-Eyed Junco Black-capped Chickadee

Yellow-Bellied American Restart Sapsucker

Rose-Breasted Grosbeak

the sounds of the river dancing, the crickets call- Highland County is known ing and contact with your inner Tom Sawyer. The Gorge is part of the Virginia State Park to bird-watching enthusiasts as an ideal system, and is 11 miles south of the historic town and 1862 Civil War battle site McDowell. Little has place to set up camp. changed in the region since the roads were com- pleted in the 1840s to link the with the Virginia frontier. “We are the least populated county in the state of Virginia. We have no Wal-Mart, no McDonald’s, pos on late summer days when the air is filled with no traffic lights, no traffic, and we like it that way,” jingling cow bells and the strong scent of manure. said Carolyn Pohowsky, director of the Highland Luckily, the aroma is balanced by an abundance of County Chamber of Commerce. Pohowsky, 60, wild blackberries, thistles and sunflowers casting promises that people who are looking for peace their own perfume. and quiet, those who wish to ride horses and Drive over the border into West Virginia to mountain bikes, along with birders and hikers, will Smoke Hole Caverns and Seneca Rocks. Origi- fall in love with the area’s pristine beauty. “They nally inhabited by the Eastern Woodland Indians, are usually as enchanted with what we do have as Smoke Hole Caverns were used by Native Ameri- they are with what we don’t have.” cans to survive difficult weather. On a tour of the The reason the area lacks cell-phone cover- deep, chilly underground caves, guides describe age? “There are no towers in the mountains. Our how Chief Bald Eagle’s Seneca tribe smoked their mountains are a formidable barrier between us meat and hides. Later, the Caverns were inhabited and the cell-phone world,” Pohowsky explained. by settlers, who during the Civil War were ru- On either side of the road, in valleys the natives mored to have hidden gold and coins in the walls. call “hollas,” cows and sheep graze on lush grasses, For the clean, cold stream that trickles through oblivious to the occasional passing vehicle. The them, the caves were also ideal for producing

shutterstock nickname “Little Switzerland” is especially apro- moonshine. Today, the only residents are the

www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 67 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 67 pieces of wood and polishing or shaping them into art. 114 Main St., Monterey, Va.; 540-468-2020.

Originally inhabited by the Eastern Reboot Woodland Indians, Smoke Hole Caverns Hungry travelers will appreciate Harpers Old Country Store, buit in 1902, and the Front Porch were used by Native Americans Restaurant, perched a single story above. In warm weather, sit outdoors on the large deck for a view of to survive difficult weather. Seneca Rocks and an “old-timey atmosphere” with everything from root beer and pizza pockets to leg of lamb. Route 28, Seneca Rocks, W.Va.; 304-567-2555; www.mountainhighlands.com.

sleeping bats. Step back in time to the genteel Highland Inn in At nearby Seneca Rocks, you’ll encounter a Monterey, an antebellum mansion on the National rock-climber’s paradise. This 900-foot formation Register for Historic Places. Featuring regional of quartzite is popular with adventurers seeking cuisine in the Black Sheep Tavern or, more for- a challenging ascent and miles of isolated hiking mally, dinner in their Monterey Dining Room. trails. Check out the Discovery Center at the site’s 68 W. Main St., Monterey, Va.; 888-466-4682; www. base, or rent horses at Yokum’s Stables. Then, take highland-inn.com a deep breath of pure air, and practice your yodel in the echoing hills.

Unplug Bear Mountain Farm and Wilderness Retreat’s Escape small cabins have no television, Wi-Fi or phones. Sugar Tree Country Store in McDowell features In their place: a cedar-fired sauna and a large, cen- locally produced maple-sugar products. This mid- trally located cabin for group meetings. Known for 19th-century store has a brass register, a pot-bel- hosting artist retreats, the cabins sit 4,400 feet lied stove and is run by a group of local Menno- above sea level, so bring extra blankets. 2599 Bear nites who sell locally milled flour, flavored butters, Mountain Road, Monterey, Va.; 540-468-2700; www. baskets and pottery made by Virginia artisans. 18 mountain-retreat.com. Mansion House Road, McDowell, Va.; 800-396-2445; www.sugartreecountrystore.com. Harman’s North Fork Cabins are more luxurious log cottages built on the . They ac- For regional crafts, original art and jewelry, visit commodate couples, groups and families. Many the Gallery of Mountain Secrets featuring works have outdoor hot tubs. Route 55 and 28, Cabins,

by local “woodturners,” pros in the field of finding W.Va.; 800-436-6254; www.wvlogcabins.com. OF s m okehole caverns COURTESY

68 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com Despite a region-wide growth in tourism, the seafaring village of Tilghman Island remains relatively relaxed.

TiLghman Maryland Island

Still relatively undiscovered, this seafaring village lull of warm sea breezes. The only sounds are ouris m is a 20-minute drive from St. Michaels and of- seagulls passing by and old pickups backfiring as fers an escape that includes excellent fishing and they putter slowly by—very slowly by. fresh seafood. There’s no mistaking that the tempo has moved A getaway trip to Tilghman requires crossing to a relaxed crawl. You’ve reached Tilghman, an Chesapeake Bay Bridge Chesapeake

ounty O ffice of T the . Calm settles over you authentic, unspoiled town on the as you absorb the pace and hospitality of these Bay. Tilghman has no chain hotels or restau- water towns on the Maryland Eastern Shore. rants. Despite growing tourism in the region albot C albot You’ll take Route 33 past corn and soybean fields and Washington-area transplants buying second and estates dating back to the 1700s, veering east homes, it still belongs to its founding generations. until the land stops. Here, the air has the unmis- Bethesda teacher Maura Freibaum, 75, and her S OF T COURTESY takable fragrance of salt water and the sedating husband bought a vacation cottage here 20 years www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 69 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 69 both for less than a dollar. To boredom-proof your trip, include a Whether you’re an experienced angler or have visit to Phillips Wharf Environmental never held a pole, there are several fishing tours available. Tilghman native son and local celebrity Center where kids can learn about the Buddy Harrison offers private charters and group secret lives of bay creatures. outings. If you’re outdoors by 7:30 a.m., you’ll see the professional fishermen heading off for a day at sea. Channel the Eastern Shore forefathers with a ride on a working skipjack, such as the Rebecca T. Ruark, which regularly cruises by the old lighthous- es. It’s best to go out at sunset. ago and made a full move to Tilghman after retir- When the water is calm, rent a kayak for the ing. She chuckled when describing cell-phone cov- day. The Tilghman shoreline beckons kayakers to erage. “It’s not easy. Sometimes you have to move explore its deserted coves and poke into its marshes around to find reception.” full of waterfowl. The Inn at Knapp’s Narrows The town was founded as a farm. Two original Marina offers both kayak or canoe rentals, as well as skipjacks, the boats that made up the first com- maps of Talbot County’s local water trails. mercial sailing fleet in North America, are on dis- Another option is to rent bikes at the Marina play at Dogwood Harbor, brimming with vessels of and peddle around the island. Freibaum empha- every kind: yachts, wooden dinghies, sailing rigs sized that visitors should “feel free to ride or walk and speedboats. Walk along the harbor to spot the side streets. Or you can sit and watch the the burly fisherman bringing in their daily haul. boats come through. Friendliness is second nature to these folks, so To boredom-proof your trip, include a visit to to gather a local yarn, stop by the Corner Market Phillips Wharf Environmental Center, where kids

for old-fashioned Hershey’s ice cream and a chat, can learn about the secret lives of bay creatures. shutterstock

70 • September 2008 • www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com In fall, Tilghman’s watermen 21551 Chesapeake House Drive, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2058; www.chesapeakehouse.com. are still hauling in crabs, the biggest of the season. Oct. 18 is this year’s Tilghman Day, when visitors can dine side by side with natives to feast on crabs, oysters and clams.

Reboot Phillips offers two-hour “It’s a Crab’s Life” pro- A day of wind and spray whets the appetite for gram amd features a petting zoo with horseshoe fresh fish and the like.Harrison’s Chesapeake crabs, live oysters and other sea animals, as well House is a bustling, family-style restaurant with as a demonstration of how pollutants affect clean, plentiful homemade sides farmed locally, like fresh water. Call in advance to schedule a tour or fresh corn, lima beans and stewed tomatoes. Or- program: 888-312-7847. der the rockfish, oysters or crab cakes—seafood In fall, Tilghman’s watermen are still hauling hauled in by Tilghman fishermen.21551 Chesa- in crabs, the biggest of the season. Oct. 18 is this peake Drive, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-866-2121; year’s Tilghman Day, when visitors can dine side www.chesapeakehouse.com. by side with natives to feast on crabs, oysters and clams. Tip beers with the local firemen, enjoy the Diners love the soups, especially the cream of crab sounds of bluegrass bands, or enter the crab-pick- and salmon chowder, at The Bridge, located above ing contest. Rowboat races, oyster-shucking and the drawbridge—a perfect perch to watch the boat-docking competitions are all part of the an- boats go by year-round. 6136 Tilghman Island Road, nual festivities, along with a live auction of mostly Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2330; www.bridge- sports memorabilia. restaurant.com. For help planning your environmentally low- impact tourism experience, consult www.delmar- valite.org for more advice about low-tech vaca- tions on the Eastern Shore.

Unplug The Lazy Jack Inn, built in 1855, is a Victorian bed and breakfast near Dogwood Harbor that allows its guests easy walking access to everything. 5907 Escape Tilghman Island Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 800-690- To further investigate the history of the region 5080; www.lazyjackinn.com. inhabited by ancient Indian tribes 13,000 years ago, stop by Crawfords Nautical Books, open Black Walnut Point is a comfortable 57-acre every weekend from April through December. wildlife sanctuary whose main house and isolated Gibson Town Road, Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886- cottages are nestled between pine woods and 2418; www.crawfordsnautical.com. marshes and surrounded on three sides by water. Your only companions are cormorants, herons, Island Treasures gift shop sells nautical keepsakes hawks and eagles. 1700 Black Walnut Point Road, and T-shirts, and is accessible by bike (wide- Tilghman Island, Md.; 410-886-2452; www.blackwal- shouldered roads make for safe and easy pedaling). nutpoint.com.—RS

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