Renee Sklarew

Wilds Region Savage River Lodge Potomac Highlands p. 54 p. 61 p. 66 Eastern Shore Rappahannock County Tilghman Island p. 57 p. 63 p. 69 It’s hard enough to relax. Never mind finding weekend getaways where you’re not lured by your laptop, interrupted by your cell phone or tempted to text the office. Is there anywhere to go where technology doesn’t dictate your day? Such places do exist. They’re remote. They’re rare. But they’re real. They’re also rapidly disappearing. Read on. 52 • September 2008 Six Wi-Fi-free and cell phone-dead destinations where you can really unplug from HigH TecH to Low counTry By Kathryn McKay and Renee Sklarew Escape Reboot Unplug shutterstock (icons and landscape) (icons shutterstock September 2008 • 53 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 53 elk were reintroduced to Wilds region in the early 20th century. wiLds Pennsylvania region A century after much of the north-central region ing another soul. Yet as much as the people who of Pennsylvania was dismissed as a wasteland after live here value their privacy, they enjoy educating timber was mined in the early 1900s, the com- visitors about how to enjoy the land. Each of the monwealth christened the land the Great Wilds region’s 12 counties is represented by a visitors Region in 2003. Cell-phone service is as scarce bureau that provides information on the parks, as people in this rustic sanctuary that covers two trails, attractions and events in that county. million acres. That’s larger than Connecticut, If the Wilds Region had a mascot, it would Rhode Island and Vermont combined, or about be the majestic elk. Eastern elk roamed freely seven-and-a-half times the size of Fairfax County. throughout the region until hunting and logging The area boasts 185 miles of mountain streams, wiped out the herds. When the forests started 29 state parks and eight state forests. There aren’t to grow back in the early 20th century, the state any fancy restaurants or luxury hotels. Most visi- introduced Rocky Mountain elk. After some fits tors camp out, rent a cabin or stay in a small bed and starts, 800 elk now roam freely, and the state and breakfast. remains committed to these creatures. A flannel shirt, jeans and boots will get you ev- Unlike their smaller cousins, the white-tailed erywhere you need to go. This is a place for watch- deer that are ubiquitous in Northern Virginia, elk ing, wondering and walking. For fishing, hiking usually don’t bolt when you drive by. Pavilions, and hunting. For bird-watching and stargazing. It’s information booths and bright yellow elk signs the kind of place where you can have a mountain are scattered across Elk County, with the largest all to yourself and hike for a day without see- concentration of the species near the village of shutterstock A54 • September 2008 • www.northernVirginiaMagazine.com pine creek Gorge is surrounded potter county offers some of the by 165,000 acres of forest. best skies for gazing on the east. With a population of 300, elk outnumber people for most of the year, but the mating season in September and October attracts tens of thousands of people to the area. Benezette. With a population of 300, elk outnum- footpath followed by trains carrying timber to ber people for most of the year, but the mating sawmills is a 60-mile trail with only two-percent season in September and October attracts tens of gradation for hiking, biking, riding horses, roller- thousands of people to the area. blading or any form of transportation that’s mo- This distinctive sound of male elks “bugling” to tor-free. Canoe access points are scattered along attract females can be heard from miles away. “It the creek, and beginning rock-climbers appreciate seems almost prehistoric,” said Rawley Cogan of the cliffs with bolted routes and flat landing zones. the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. “It starts as a After a day of activity, some people head down groan and ends in a high-pitch whistle.” to Cherry Springs State Park in Potter County for s state park) park) s state G Males or bulls can weigh as much as 900 a 360-degree view of the sky in one of the darkest pounds and grow antlers as long as 5 feet. “Their places on the East Coast. Others stay in Tioga tissue is the fastest growing known to man,” County for dinner in the town of Wellsboro, where Cogan said. “If our limbs healed like their anglers gas lanterns line the main street and cell phones grew, you could break your leg, and it would heal do receive signals. e and cherry sprin e and cherry in a day.” G or Elk are hunted the first weekend in November. G “We have 40 tags, or chances, and about 30,000 people apply,” said Janet Colwell, a local guide. To prepare for more tourists interested in elk, a visitors center is scheduled to open in 2009. Elk don’t roam in Pine Creek Gorge in Tioga County, but bald eagles, bobcats and river otters live in this 50-mile gap in the land. Dubbed the “Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania,” the gorge can ennsylvania dcnr (pine creek ennsylvania p reach up to 1,450 feet deep. And unlike the real Grand Canyon, it is surrounded by 165,000 acres Escape of forest. From caps to socks and photographs to figurines, courtesy of courtesy Where the Seneca Indians once formed a almost everything is elk at the mom-and-pop Elk www.northernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 55 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 55 Wondering why, when you travel through some re- Country Store owned by the Rowes. 23154 Quehanna mote areas, you lose your signal? the AT&t website Highway, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-4460. provides this caveat: “actual cell-phone coverage area may be affected by terrain, weather, foliage, Everything from soaps and lip gloss to fine buildings and construction, signal strength, customer wooden bowls and tables are handmade, mostly equipment and other factors.” verizon, sprint and by local artists, at the Artisan’s Shoppe. 17 Crafton t-Mobile offer similar explanations for why travelers St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-5166; www.artisans- reach “dead zones,” or places where the signal for shoppe.com. sending and receiving calls is obstructed. Alexa kaufman, spokesperson for AT&t Wireless explained how coverage patterns work: “it costs a lot to build cell sites, and the process occurs over time. first, we covered the major cities, then travel corridors like i-95, and now we’re reaching out to the rural suburbs. We’re going where the popula- tions are first.” John Johnson, from verizon Wireless, disconnecTed Reboot By Renee Sklarew Elk antlers, a snakeskin and a mountain lion with blinking yellow eyes adorn the walls at the Medix concurred but cautioned, “Where can you unplug on Hotel, where elk burgers and steak are best- vacation? it is probably harder finding areas without sellers. 23155 Quehanna Highway, Weedville, Pa.; signal coverage than finding ways to set limits about 814-787-5920. when you are available.” connectivity is growing across the eastern seaboard, but here are some Everyone is addressed as “honey” at the comfy escapes where your coverage may be spotty at best. Wellsboro Diner, open since 1939. Pies made by the same baker for 20 years often sell out before Clarity and reception dinner. 19 Main St., Wellsboro, Pa.; 570-724-3992; Dead Zone, diminished due to limited net- Complete coverage, no service area, work service and interference networks offer a www.wellsborodiner.com. no transmitters from topography strong, clear signal 0 5 10 Wilds Region, Pa. 5 Eastern Shore, Va. 8 Savage River Lodge, Md. Unplug 10 At Wapiti Woods, cook in or outside five cabins Rappahannock, Va. with full kitchens. Two add romance to the rustic setting with whirlpools fit for a couple.5186 River 2 Road, Route 555, Weedville, Pa.; 814-787-7525; www. Potomac Highlands, W. Va. wapitiwoods.com.—KM 0 Tilghman Island, Md. 5 cell-phone coveraGe in each reGion varies dependinG on the netWork. verizon has penetrated More of these reGions than AT&t, sprint, cellular one, nextel and t-Mobile, but no phone subscribers Will find a siGnal in Mountainous areas. 56 • September 2008 • www.northernVirginiaMagazine.com harbors that dot chincoteague’s chincoteague refuge’s KOA shore are characteristically calm. grounds offer dirt-cheap lodging. easTern Virginia sHore The Eastern Shore of Virginia remains pasto- the Barrier Islands and, finally, Kiptopeke State ral and unoccupied compared to the rest of the Park—until you reach the 17.9-mile Chesapeake Delmarva Peninsula. It’s recognized by the United Bay Bridge-Tunnel leading to Norfolk. Nations as a “biosphere reserve” and has one of The Bridge-Tunnel itself is a marvel. It barely the last wetland habitats in the world. The largest skirts over the bay, going above water and then coastal wilderness on the Eastern Seaboard of the under it. At times you’re driving alongside fishing United States, this narrow finger of land separates boats or straight toward a container ship. the Chesapeake Bay from the Atlantic Ocean. Thousands of years ago, this peninsula was Traveling south on Route 13, the only major inhabited by the Algonquin tribes. Proof of the highway on the peninsula, you will pass protected tribe’s fondness for seafood are the ancient shell shutterstock environments—Chincoteague, Wallops Island, middens, refuse of shellfish-harvesting, buried T www.northernVirginiaMagazine.com • September 2008 • 57 www.NorthernVirginiaMagazine.com 57 Between towns lie miles of flat marshes, Fairfax County naturalist and historian Tony Bulmer, 40, of Nokesville, makes year-round and in parts the land is only trips to Virginia’s Eastern Shore.

Load more