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Places to Visit in the Potomac Highlands

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Places to Visit in the Potomac Highlands AAppendixppendix AA:: AAdditionaldditional IInformationnformation AAppenppenddixix AA1:1: PPlaceslaces ttoo VVisitisit iinn tthehe PPotomacotomac HHighlandsighlands BY BETH SEE GETTING THERE The Potomac Highlands is approximately 2 hours from the DC Metro Area and 2 hours from Pittsburgh, PA and 3 hours from Charleston, WV. I-81 is 20 minutes from Hardy County; I-79 is 30 minutes from Randolph and Tucker counties; I-48 is 30 minutes from Mineral County; I-64 is an hour from Pocahontas County and I-81 through Harrisonburg is 35 minutes from Pendleton County. All roads into the highland area offer spectacular views, quaint towns and places to lodge and get good food. ESTIMATED LENGTH The entire trip through the highland counties is less than 300 miles. ESTIMATED TIME 4-5 days to take in most major sites, but one day will allow for a good look at one to two counties. HIGHLIGHTS Each county has unique and wonderful features. As I studied the history of the Potomac Highlands, it became apparent that county boundaries matter little when you are in this area. It does not matter that the stream you are fishing or the trout or bass you catch is in Pendleton, Hardy, Grant or any other county. All counties offer spectacular views, water and waterfalls, historic sites and good places to stay and dine. I tried to capture as much of each county as possible in the space provided, but there are many other places I did not get to mention and once you start exploring the Potomac Highlands, you will discover and uncover treasure upon treasure and you will plan return adventures. A1 *County seats are close together in the Potomac Highlands. Starting with Petersburg in Grant County, the distance to Elkins in Randolph County is 54 miles, Canaan Valley in Tucker County 46 miles, Franklin in Pendleton County 33 miles, Marlington in Pocahontas County 93 miles, Moorefield in Hardy County 11 miles and Romney in Hampshire County 39 miles. PPLACESLACES TTOO VVISITISIT BBYY CCOUNTYOUNTY GRANT COUNTY: www.grantcountywv.org Big Bend Recreation Area: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mnf/recarea/?recid=7000 Dolly Sods Recreational Area: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mnf/ recarea/?recid=12366 Greenland Gap, a preserve owned by The Nature Conservancy https://wvtourism.com/ company/greenland-gap-preserve/ Red Creek Recreation Area: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mnf/recarea/?recid=7003 North Fork Mountain, a long, high ridge crossed only by U.S. 33 Kile Knob - see above Panther Knob - see above Pike Knob - see above The North Fork Water Gap: https://books.google.com/ Smoke Hole Caverns: https://wvtourism.com/company/smoke-hole-caverns-resort-2/ Horseshoe Recreation Area: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/mnf/recarea/?recid=6982 Wills Mountain Anticline: https://blogs.agu.org/mountainbeltway/2020/05/08/friday- fold-wills-mountain-anticline/ Overview of County Petersburg, the county seat, is approximately 12 miles from Big Ben Recreational Area and about 14 miles from Dolly Sods Recreational Area. Red Creek Recreational Area joins the Dolly Sods Wilderness Area. Smoke Hole Caverns is within 2 miles of the entry into the Big Ben area, so all of these areas are in close proximity to each other.Greenland Gap is approximately 18 miles from Petersburg and The North Fork Mountain area is within 40 minutes to an hour from Petersburg, depending on the section. All areas could be visited in one day but to get the full effect of the views and the water, two days would be best - more if time permits. There are camping areas, motels and B&Bs for lodging. Featured Sites North Fork Mountain Take a trip to the North Fork Mountain of the Allegheny Mountains (also known as the “High Alleghenies’’ or “Potomac Highlands”). See unusual vegetation, fauna and flora, rock formations while traveling through beautiful countryside in Grant and Pendleton counties. Image Credit: Brian M. Powell, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org A2 Here are some things to know: • North Fork Mountain runs roughly northeast to southwest for 34 miles through Grant and Pendleton and separates the South Branch of the Potomac River from the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac River. • It forms the western edge of Smoke Hole Canyon, a portion of South Branch popular with boaters. • The lower, western slopes of the mountain and the adjacent Germany Valley have numerous caves, such as the celebrated Hellhole. • There are three distinct “knobs”: Kile Knob (4,588 ft) the mountain’s highest, with Panther Knob and Pike Knob nearly as high • Driest high mountain in the Appalachians • Vegetation and flora are different from nearby Spruce Knob and Dolly Sods • An anticline mountain, a major part of the Wills Mountain Anticline system • Tuscarora quartzite forms the mountain caprock • This same quartzite stratum forms dramatic outcrops such as Seneca Rocks • Much of the mountain is within the Monongahela National Forest History of North Fork Mountain: Scattered family homesteads existed on the east slope of North Fork Mountain throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. These few early settlers were of English, German or Dutch stock and constituted a community known as “Smoke Hole”, named for the gorge to the east of the Mountain. It is believed that none of these smallholders owned slaves, a fact that determined their Unionist sentiments during the American Civil War and brought them into sometimes violent conflict with surrounding communities during that time. Rohrbaugh Cabin (or Allegheny Cabin), a log cabin built about 1880, still stands on the eastern slope, among various related Northern section of North Fork Mountain looking south structures. (It was listed on the National Register of Historic from the top of what locals Places in 1993.) The steeper western slopes have, with few call “Shelby’s Cliffs.” exceptions, always been uninhabited. Much timbering was Image Credit: Pytheas, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org done on North Fork Mountain in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In the early 20th century, a local “character” and moonshiner, Cal Nelson, lived on the western slopes of the Mountain. “Nelson Sods” and the “Cal Nelson Trail” are his namesakes. His colorful, sometimes outrageous, story is told in Bardon Shreve’s book, A Place Called Smoke Hole. In March 1930, after an unusually mild and dry winter, a Nelson Sods forest fire ravaged North Fork Mountain consuming Image Credit: Brian M. Powell, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org A3 most of the undergrowth and smaller trees. The fire was extinguished by 11 days of rainfall. This dramatic event motivated the Forest Service to organize a more effective program of fire suppression on the Mountain: fire wardens were hired, a 90-foot steel fire tower was built on Pike Knob, and surveillance was undertaken 24 hours per day during the fire season. Over the next few years, local men were recruited, even compelled, to form quick-response, fire-fighting teams, but deep resentments were created. Many locals, “Smoke Holers” who lived on the gentler-sloping east side of the Mountain, blamed the Forest Service program for the deterioration in the quality of forage needed by their free-ranging swine and sheep and for the decline in the huckleberry patches. These locals surreptitiously started the next (and last) significant fire on the Mountain in the spring of 1941. About ten square miles of woodland were burned. The mostly unemployed local men fighting the fire happily accepted their wages though they knew the true cause of the conflagration. The foundations of the Pike Knob tower, together with the ruins of the watchman’s cabin nearby, can be seen today. In the early 1980s, the Nature Conservancy became increasingly involved in habitat conservation on North Fork Mountain working with the Forest Service and private landowners to establish preserves on Panther Knob and on Pike Knob. Wildlife on North Fork Mountain includes whitetail deer, wild turkey, black bear, coyotes, bobcats, gray foxes, timber rattlesnakes, eastern newts, and a variety of other bird, mammal, reptile, and amphibian species. Two U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Species of Concern are found on North Fork Mountain, the peregrine falcon and the Allegheny woodrat. Golden eagles are also known there. Various locally abundant but globally rare species of bats that roost in nearby limestone caverns are also often seen foraging over North Fork Mountain’s western slopes. Scenery and Recreation The River Knobs and Nelson Rocks (middle distance) beneath the crest of North Fork Mountain Image Credit: Jarek Tuszyński, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org Places visible to the west from points on the ridgetop may include the River Knobs (including Seneca Rocks and Champe Rocks), the Germany Valley, the Fore Knobs, Hopeville Gorge, Spruce Mountain and Spruce Knob, and the Allegheny Front. A4 North Fork Mountain and the River Knobs feature prominently in views from the mountaintops immediately west of the North Fork Valley, including Spruce Knob and Dolly Sods. Nelson Sods on North Fork Mountain has views of the Roaring Plains, Spruce Mountain, and the North Fork Valley, as well as Shenandoah Mountain to the east. Similar views are also offered by other open summits on the mountain. State Route 28 follows the North Fork River from North Fork Gap south to Cherry Grove, offering diverse views of the River Knobs and North Fork Mountain to the east and the Fore Knobs, Allegheny Front, and Spruce Mountain to the west. Panther Knob is easily viewed from the west from Snowy Mountain Road south of Cherry Grove. Other views of Seneca Rocks and North Fork Mountain are offered by U.S.
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