T H E ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA, VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION I SLAND BUSHWHACKER
volume 30 * Issue 2 May, 2002
STUFFSACK Message from the Chair
May 11 - 12: National Club Board Meeting And AGM (impressions of a newcomer) I attended the May 11-12 National Club Board meeting and AGM in place of Gerta Smythe, our VI Section representative. Gerta had been telling me about all the fun I was missing. At last, I couldn't resist. I was not disappointed!! This particular AGM marked a number of firsts: • the first AGM in over 20 years not held in the Rockies; • the first (I think) AGM ever held on the west coast; • my first ever AGM, and first face-to-face of any kind with the National Club and all of those enthusiastic, hard working folks who run it and make things happen; • and maybe some more. The meetings were hosted by the Vancouver Section. And what superb hosts! The extensive pre-event activities offered something for everyone - the easterners seemed to go most for the ocean kayaking. The setting was spectacular - in the penthouse suite of the UBC Graduate Student Centre, looking across Burrard Inlet at the North Shore Mountains Gil Parker earning his Distinguished Service Award chopping brush and up Howe Sound at the Tantalus Range - all still on the ski route into Marriott Basin. Judith Holm blanketed in snow. The receptions were cordial, the discussions were lively and the people were the kind you would like to meet again. VI Section was well represented, The setting itself proved more effective than any words in with Judith and Viggo Holm and Richard Keltie (we can sensitizing the group and the discussions to the contrasts that still count Richard can't we?) attending throughout. work to pull us apart, as we work to stay together under the umbrella of a national club. Why else did Vancouver Section The legacy of this AGM, and the lasting memory for all who work (struggle?) for four or five years to coax the National Club attended it, will surely be the coining of "Rockcentric". This to convene, for once, under the watchful eyes of the foothills AGM saw the getting out in the open the predominance of of the Coast Mountains! the Rocky (and Columbian) Mountains in shaping the history, outlook and running of the ACC, and the getting The message in all of this? We need to work so that the onto the table the challenges in ensuring the ACC remains contrasts make us richer rather than pull us apart. That means (becomes?) Canada's national mountaineering club.
Island Bushwhacker -1- Volume30 * Issue 2 VANCOUVER ISLAND SECTION OF THE listening, accommodating and uniting - my impression of what was happening ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA around the table. So much for impressions and on to the business. As always there were the Section Reports, followed by the National Executive (VP) Reports, followed by various decision and discussion items. Some highlights: • The ACC has a new, 18th section! It is Section Outaouais, formerly Club Vertige, based in the Ottawa/Hull area. • Plans and activities continue throughout the ACC under the banner of the SECTION EXECUTIVE 2002 UN International Year of Mountains. This includes our section's summer camp in the Rockies and the $500 granted to it. 2002 CHAIR - Tom Hall 592-2518 • (Grandiose!) plans are already getting under way for the 2006 ACC Centennial SECRETARY -Lynn Peppler 370-5135 TREASURER - Rick Eppler 477-5806 under the direction of Mike Mortimer, past president. What do we want to MEMBERSHIP - Jules Thomson 472-3820 do?. NATIONAL CLUB - Gerta Smythe 478-7369 SCHEDULE - Catrin Brown 477-5806 • Where there has always only been the one museum for Canadian FMCBC - Russ Moir 477-0070 mountaineering (the Whyte in Banff), there may one day (soon?) be two more, one in Canmore and one in Whistler. MEMBERS AT LARGE Don Morton • The National Executive Committee engaged recently in a Strategy Session Sylvia Moser (Think Tank retreat). They shared their thoughts and conclusions coming out Tony Vaughn Ian Rongve of that. • It was announced at the AGM that Gil Parker received the National BUSHWHACKER EDITORS “Distinguished Service Award” and Claire Ebendinger the new Section “Leader Chris Peppler 370-5135 Award” Congratulations to both. Rob Macdonald Viggo Holm 477-8596 • Another rave review of our Bushwhacker Annual. I passed out copies of our Anita Vaughn 360-9046 2001 Annual just as Gerta passed out copies last year of our 2000 Annual. For more information about the AGM please contact Gerta who will have a copy SUPPORT POSITIONS of agendas, minutes and other material to do with the meetings, Judith or Viggo Holm or myself. EQUIPMENT - Paul Macoun 381-3834 LIBRARY - Judith Holm 477-8596 Thank you, WEB MASTER - Gerhardt Lepp GATE KEYS - Murrough O’Brien 479-9127 Tom.
ACC website: http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca Library ACC VI website: Judith Holm http// www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/vi The VI Section library can be accessed by visiting the library (Judith Holm, 477- 8596) or by e-mail ([email protected]). Available are guide/instructional books, maps, The Island Bushwhacker is published 4 times a year by ACC publications, mountaineering literature/videos/archives. Requested items may the Vancouver Island Section of the A lpine Club of Canada. be scanned and emailed to members. New Books - "Backcountry Huts & Lodges of the Rockies & Columbias", by Jim Scott, Johnson Gorman Publishers, 2002, and "Fawcett on Rock,” by Ron Fawcett and John Submission deadline for the next issue is: Friday August 30, 2002. (Bushwhacker) Beatty, with introduction by Jim Perrin, Unwin Hyman, 1987. Rock climbing techniques, liberally illustrated with large photographs (donated by Larry Talarico). Additional material available: IBSN 0822 - 9473 Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, Don Morton, 4483 Greentree Tce Victoria BC, V8N 3S9, (1 250) 721 4942, [email protected]
Island Bushwhacker -2- Volume30 * Issue 2 Island climbing history, Lindsay Elms, Island mountaineering historian, (250) 335 2237, [email protected] or www.island.net/~ekerr/ Topographical maps, Crown Publications Inc., 521 Fort St Victoria Our executive supports this project. We shall do what BC, V8W 1E7, (1 250) 386 4636, http://www.crownpub.bc.ca we can to financially contribute. Please contact [email protected] if you think you might like to be part of this initiative. ACC Coast Archives Project Judith Holm On March 23, Liz Scremin (Vancouver Section Chair), Viggo and I represented the Alpine Club at the Whistler Museum/Archives open house/capital campaign kick-off. We met with Stephen Henderson ( President Whistler Museum/Archives Society) and Pat Gemmill (Curator/Archivist) to discuss the role of the Vancouver Island Section in the proposed partnership between the three ACC Coastal Sections and the WM/AS. We are excited about this opportunity to create a Coast Mountaineering Collection. Pat Gemmill has expertise and experience (from Ottawa) in putting collections onto websites. The Coast Mountaineering Collection will be digitized and thus available for us to see from the comfort of our homes. The long- Stephen Henderson, Judith Holm, Liz Scremin & Pat term goal (of the VI Section) is to collect Vancouver Island Gemmill. V.Holm Mountaineering archival material and oral histories.
Up-Island News, Spring 2002 Lindsay Elms Spring is here, or is it summer! The ski-hills, Mts. whiteout conditions with strong winds – hard icy snow. On Washington and Cain, have closed for the season and both the summit we turned around, took our skins off and resorts are reporting having had plenty of snow at the time of followed the holes in the snow from our ski poles while shutting down so we could be skiing into summer. As usual wiping the ice off our goggles. Lower down on the ridge we there was lots of back-country skiing up island. Again Mt. had to put all our weight as far forward over our skis to get Becher was a popular day trip with as many as twenty people some forward momentum but we still could get no speed on the summit on a good day. up. At Circlet Lake we put our wet skins back on our skis and slogged out to the Raven Lodge beating the rain by a The unfortunate news is vandals have burned the Forbidden few minutes. It continues to amaze me how quickly Plateau Lodge down, so gone is some island skiing history. conditions can change on the island!! Several groups made trips up Mt. Albert Edward in varying conditions: hard-packed snow with sub-zero temperatures to Snow shoeing has become a popular mode of transport on soft sticky snow in +10 degrees. Paradise Meadows and many people are hiking up Mt. Brooks, Elma and Albert Edward. As well this winter, a On April 13 Joe Bajan, his son Adam, his friend Aaron, Peter young guy started up a snow-shoe running clinic out of the Ravensbergen and I skied in to Albert Edward on a day trip. Raven Lodge which proved quite popular. It started out as a beautiful morning at 6:30 AM. By the time we got to Circlet Lake it was about +10 degrees with Snow-mobiles have been sighted on the ridge between wet heavy snow. At 10:30 up on the ridge we struck Albert Edward and Jutland and there have been rumours
Island Bushwhacker -3- Volume30 * Issue 2 that they’ve been seen behind Castle Crag. Their reasoning South Ridge. The first multi-pitch route was started around for being this high is because there is not as much snow 1988 by Kevin Floyd and Dave Parsons but in 2000 (yes, 12 lower down therefore they have to go higher! I think they years later) Dave Lepard and Dave Parsons returned and should have a #*-+>#@ put under them and ….enough said. pushed another 7 – 8 pitches on the route. In September In March there was a serious snow-mobiling accident on Mt. 2001 they returned and completed the 11th pitch which they Adrian that required 442 Squadron out of Comox to graded at 5:10b. The first 10 pitches were rated between 5:6 evacuate the injured person. Apparently the snow-mobiler to 5:8. This route they called Wapiti Mainline. In July went off a bluff. If anyone sees snow-mobilers in Strathcona 2001 Dave Lepard and Ryan Fisher put up a 4 pitch route Park report the incident to BC Parks. on the same slab called Talladega Highbank rated up to On April 20 a snowboarding group met avalanche conditions 5:10a. on Mt. Klitsa and made a safe descent minus many of the Access to the granite slabs is via the Nomash Main. Before turns they were hoping for. Mt. Arrowsmith is still as reaching the N20, which is the access road to Rugged popular as ever with ascents being made of many different Mountain, cross a bridge to the south side of the Nomash routes. On one summit day in March parties had climbed and ascend the N14 logging road. Although this is an active the Lost Gully/South Ridge, the Judges Route, the Snow- logging area, Dave has been consulting with the forestry gully Route and the Saddle Route. Due to the lack of snow company and they have granted them permission to climb clearing (none) on the logging road access was only feasible in this area and to build access trails (45 to 60 minutes) to for 4x4 vehicles with high clearance and big tires during the the bottom of the slabs. The only stipulations they have winter months. made are that climbers park their vehicles far enough off the Finally, some news of climbing in the Nomash River area road at the landing to give the logging trucks unrestricted near Zeballos. Victoria’s Dave Lepard has been active access and that no harvest trees are cut down or damaged putting up two multi-pitch routes on some granite slabs on during trail building. Apparently in this area there are a the south side of the Nomash opposite Rugged Mountain. multitude of routes to be climbed, and as Dave says, “it sure This mountain has no official name but is possibly the beats the increasing price of ferry rides across to Squamish.” Grayback Peak climbed by Chris Barner in May 1994 via the Update on the Georgia–Caucasus Expedition Gil Parker As of May 30, seven ACC members and friends are flying to son and nephew, to start a tourism business in this Georgia, that’s the Caucasus’ Georgia, where 15 of our economically desolate environment. members climbed in 1990. We’ll be there for three weeks, Herb Kariel, a former ACC-VP, and his partner Elisabeth, hiking in the mountains and absorbing the culture are joining us from the Calgary Section. Sherry Kirkvold, a (including choral singing) of the eastern wine district and writer/naturalist friend will perhaps be able to identify what the Adjara region near Batumi on the Black Sea. The we are looking at. The other four participants are PCT purpose, in addition to the obvious interest of these events, veterans, Albert Hestler, Larry Talarico, Bill Feyrer and is to assist our former guide, Lado Gurchiani, and his myself.
A SPECIAL REPORT ON RESOURCES FOR NEW MEMBERS
Below is a compendium of “who, what, where, how” for Morton:
Island Bushwhacker -4- Volume30 * Issue 2 asked to describe the trips they have done and skills they have 9. Mt. Arrowsmith 1819 m. Judge’s Route 5-6 hours round acquired. Leaders may specifically require that participants trip. (B3) Steep hiking. Crampons and ice axe in winter have and are able to use technical equipment i.e. transceivers, 10. Mt. Klitsa 1642 m. 5-6 hours round trip. (C3) crampons, ice axe. Participants should advise the trip leader Crampons & ice axe. of the level of their mountaineering skills and any concerns 11. Mt. Albert Edward 2094 m. 10- 12 hours or overnight such as health or fitness that may affect their ability to ski or hiking trip. (C3) complete the trip. These should be revealed to the leader well in advance of the trip date. Participants may be advised by the 12. Mt. Baker, USA 3285 m. 10 hour ski or hiking trip from leader on how to improve their skills or fitness in preparation. base camp on crevassed glacier (C3) Leaders may decline permission for a participant to join a club Equipment and clothing (partial list and all not needed for trip when the participant is not adequately prepared in health, every trip). fitness, equipment, clothing or skills. Participants may expect Refer to your trip leader, backcountry supplier, and reference to learn from leaders and more experienced members books for further information. Some equipment may be informally during a trip. Please read Suggestions For Trip borrowed from the club or other outlets and/or purchased Participants on the schedule and (see below). website.
Island Bushwhacker -5- Volume30 * Issue 2 Valhalla Pure Outfitters, 615 Broughton, Victoria, BC, V8W Skills development 1C8, (250) 360 2181, 6550 Metro Dr, Nanaimo, BC; The Vancouver Island Section ACC offers the following (250) 390 6883; 219 5th St, Courtenay, BC, (250) 334 workshops on an annual basis to members and others - check 3963 your winter and summer schedules for timing: Mountain Equipment Coop, One-time membership fee • Snow School - Training in building snow anchors, use of $5.00, 130 West Broadway, Vancouver, BC, V5Y 1P3, 1 ice axe and practice of self-arrest. 800 663 2667 or (604) 876 6221, http://www.mec.ca • Crevasse Rescue Review - Knot & rope management, (Free delivery on mail orders) harness and roped travel, self rescue with prusik, snow Strathcona Outfitters, 2-6683 Mary Ellen, Naniamo, BC, anchors and mechanically advantaged crevasse rescue. (250) 390 0400 • Telemark Clinic - freeheel, downhill. Outsider, The Outdoors Store, 138 West 2nd Ave, Qualicum • Leadership Development Workshop. Beach, BC, (250) 752 6610 • Navigation Workshop map/compass/GPS. Mountain Meadow Sports, 368 5th St., Courtenay, BC (250) 338 8999 • Avalanche Safety arranged for members with professional instruction (Avalanche Transceiver Practice). Equipment Rental Other Sources to Develop Your Skills Vancouver Island Section, Alpine Club of Canada, Paul Macoun 119A Bushby St, Victoria, [email protected], Alpine Club of Canada - See web site for complete list: Available to club members - crampons, axes & avalanche http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca, Summer Mountaineering safety equipment, climbing ropes (leaders only), 4 man Camp: novice to expert climbing on rock, snow & ice, Winter tent, see section website for complete list. & Summer Leadership Training Courses. Sports Rent, Cross-country and telemark skis and boots, Canada West Mountain School, 47 W. Broadway ,Vancouver, transceivers, crampons. 611 Discovery St, Victoria, BC, BC, V5Y 1P1, (604) 878 7007, 1 888 892 2266, V8T 5G4, (250) 385 7368 http://www.themountainschool.com Mountain safety instruction, including avalanche safety, snow camping, Mountain Equipment Coop, Vancouver, see above for backcountry skiing and ice climbing instruction. address. Canadian Avalanche Association, for avalanche hazard Ski Tak Hut, All types of ski rentals and sales of clothing and bulletins and Recreational Avalanche Course, training & lists equipment, 267 6th St, Courtenay, BC, (250) 334 2537 of instructors http://www.avalanche.ca Equipment Repairs Shred Safe-Recreational Avalanche Awareness, Pepi Krajk Jeune Bros. Tent & Awning, 570 Johnson St, Victoria, BC (250) 897 3254, http://www.island.net/~hipski/ V8W 1M3, (250) 385 7751 First Aid, Slipstream Wilderness First Aid, 50 Cambridge St, Stevenson's Shoe Clinic, Also sews packs, 714 Fort St, Victoria, BC, V8V 4A8, (250) 388 0633, Victoria, BC, V8W 1H2, (250) 383 8615 [email protected] Manton Shoe Repair, 760 Yates St., 385 1813 Wall Climbing and Instruction, Crag X Indoor Climbing Guide Books Center, 341 John St, Victoria, BC, V8T 1I2, (250) 383 4628, Hiking Trails I, Victoria and Vicinity by Susan Lawrence: Rental of climbing gear and wall space. Discount for ACC Hiking Trails II, Southeastern Vancouver Island by members Richard K. Blier: Hiking Trails III, Central and Northern Romper Room Indoor Climbing Centre, 4385 Boban Rd., Vancouver Island by Jane Waddell, all published by Nanaimo, BC, (250) 751 7625 Vancouver Island Trails Information Society Rock and Ice Climbing Instruction, Slipstream Adventures, Greater Victoria Climber's Guide, Published by Greater Squamish, BC, 1 800 616 1325, Victoria Climbers Association http://www.slipstreamadventures.com (Will locate courses on A Guide to Climbing and Hiking in Southwestern British the Island for ACC groups at reduced rates). Columbia, Bruce Fairley, Gordon Soules Book Publishers Heathens Climbing Club (Campbell River), Ltd [email protected], Summer climbing camp at Crest Creek Crags open to ACC membersStrathcona Park Lodge, PO Box 2100, Campbell River, BC, V9W 5C5, (250) 286 3122 (Also
Island Bushwhacker -6- Volume30 * Issue 2 sailing, kayaking, rock climbing and hiking courses). Other Contacts: the routes you are capable of climbing, and the • Federation Of Mountain Clubs of BC: information you can trust. This compilation of material is
CLOUDBURST -FMCBC Newsletter by e-mail. You, hopefully, have read recent Cloudburst issues, and seen what a powerful dialogue forum it has become for the mountaineering community. To help save the Fed. the heavy cost of mailing issues, the Fed has asked that members who would prefer electronic issues should send a note to that effect to Pat Harrison (Ex. Dir.) at the office < [email protected]
You'll probably get it sooner too!
Snow School & CREVASSE RESCUE COURSE APRIL 20 & 21ST Many thanks to Rick J., Sandy, Jules and Russ for instructing the course . We "think" participants came home knowing how not to get into trouble and then to get themselves out of a "hole". If anyone on the course finds an extra DDM Figure 8 in their gear it's Russ' and he feels sad without it in his pack.(477-0070)
MESSAGE FROM THE EDITORS
Have you subscribed to the Bushwhacker by email? Doing this will save us postage and you will get it faster and in colour! Send an email to < [email protected] > and we will notify you when it is ready to down load.
Island Bushwhacker -7- Volume30 * Issue 2 VANCOUVER ISLAND HUT PROPOSAL (Alpine Club of Canada)
Rick Eppler
Your Section Executive is looking for input and/or feedback on the their preservation as recreational areas. proposed plan presented by the Main Club Huts Committee to A few of the suggestions put forth by the executive are: 1) construct a hut somewhere in the mountains of Vancouver Circlet Lake (Forbidden Plateau -Strathcona Park) 2) Haihte Island. The idea of locating an Alpine Club hut on the Island Range (Rugged Mountain); 3) Alava - Bate Sanctuary; 4) is not new. In the mid 1970’s, the Section (Mike Sampson), MacKenzie Range; and 5) Bonanza Range spearheaded a drive to lease a lot and construct a Section hut Your executive supports the idea in principle of placing an at Mount Washington - it fell through for lack of funding alpine hut on Vancouver Island but we really want your from the Main Club. Under direction from the Main Club feedback, direction, and suggestions regarding the above on the Section, Gil Parker attempted to locate a hut in Strathcona anything from location and hut type to what kind of Park at Cream Lake but met opposition from other groups commitment we should/can make for time, labour in site and, ultimately, BC Parks. The Alpine Club did have an selection, preparation, andconstruction. operating hut in the Sooke Hills years ago. This hut proposal is being driven by the Main Club, with input, advice and site selection coming from our Section. The understanding at this time is the funding would come from the Main Club with other support in the form of time and/or labour from the Section. The initial proposal was to construct a cabin at Circlet Lake (with BC Parks sanctioning). Our Section executive felt a hut in this area would be subject to heavy use, mainly by non-members, as the mountaineering potential is limited and would attract summer hikers and winter ski tourers. So, ACC “Victoria Section” Cabin at Lake of the Seven Hills in the Sooke Hills we felt we should come up with circa 1930-35. Photo by Vivian Cook (from Kathleen Tuckey) alternatives. The issues of access, logging, and vandalism must be The Alpine Club of Canada will be 100 years old in 2006 considered in choosing a suitable location, as well as the variety making this a possible ACC centennial project. Your ideas of climbing, skiing and hiking possibilities. BC Parks isn’t will be tabled at the next Executive meeting (June 27th) to looking favourably (at this time) on a hut within the help guide us in direction or commitment to the Main Club Strathcona Park - Buttle Lake corridor. The mountains of regarding the hut proposal. Please send ideas, suggestions, Vancouver Island, for the most part, lack access trails, or and thoughts to: straightforward access routes, and in wet, or extreme weather e-mail: [email protected] this can often lead to the failure of the trip. There are some classic Vancouver Island areas that have a concentration of Rick Eppler climbs, scrambles, and alpine terrain that if equipped with a hut for shelter would make them more accessible and user- 3449 Blue Sky Place friendly. A hut would likely promote their use and possibly Victoria BC V9C 3N5
Island Bushwhacker -8- Volume30 * Issue 2 Island Bushwhacker -9- Volume30 * Issue 2