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Points of \70J Interest points of \70J As the Nation's principal conservation agency, the Department of the Interior has responsibility for most of our nationally interest ^-^ owned public lands and natural resources. This includes fostering the wisest use of our land and water resources, pro­ tecting our fish and wildlife, preserving the environmental and MOIAB cultural values of our national parks and historical places, and providing for the enjoyment of life through outdoor recrea­ pJlSTRICT tion. The Department assesses our energy and mineral re­ sources and works to assure that their development is in the best interests of all our people. The Department also has a major responsibility for American Indian reservation com­ munities and for people who live in Island Territories under U.S administration. US IDepartment of the Interior fBureau of Land Management }Moab District '/?0. Box 970 '125 West 2nd South 'Moab, Utah 84532 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT JULY 1977 THE LAND NOBODY WAJ0TS SAN RAFAEL SWELL The "lands nobody wants" or "vacant" lands have been terms West of Green River, an area of geologic uplift 80 miles long used in the past to describe much of the vast, undeveloped (1,000 to 1,400 feet deep) with the gas found in the Morrison (north to south) by 30 miles wide rises out of the desert. This Herds built up to the point that the range became overgrazed land found in the West. Most road maps show boundaries of formation. feature, known as the San Rafael Swell, was formed about 70 and began to deteriorate. During recent years range man­ national forests and parks, but what about the land in be­ million years ago when forces deep in the earth lifted the agement efforts have halted the downward trend in range tween? Whom does it belong to? Does it have any value? surface to an elevation of almost 13,000 feet. Wind and water conditions and some improvement is beginning to be seen. Does anything interesting ever happen in these "empty" have reduced the surface level to less than 8,000 feet, carving Today, about 2,000 cattle and 3,700 sheep graze the Swell regions? This brochure will try to answer these questions for © spectacular canyons and fantastic sandstone monuments. during parts of each year. They share the range with a resident such lands along Interstate 70. THOMPSON, UTAH herd of mule deer and with small bands of wild horses and The eastern edge of the swell is formed by huge upturned burros. These public lands belong to all U.S. citizens. They are managed In the early years of this century, Thompson was a major sandstone flatirons of the San Rafael Reef. The western for your benefit and enjoyment by the Bureau of Land Manage­ railhead for livestockmen of eastern Utah. From the Uinta extent of the swell is indefinite, since the gentle westward ment (BLM) Moab District, U.S. Department of the Interior. Basin on the north, cattle were driven from the Bookcliffs to slope of the swell continues unbroken into the Muddy Creek As you travel Interstate 70 between the Colorado-Utah state Thompson. The huge Scorup-Somerville ranch in the 1890's drainage. The nearly flat center of the swell contains natural © line and Fremont Junction, east of Salina, Utah, you will trailed cattle from as far as the San Juan River, 130 miles to open "pastures" bordered by pinyon-juniper woodlands and GHOST ROCKS AND COAL WASH pass many points of interest. There are many examples of the the south. Today the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad still by massive sandstone "castles." increasing importance of the lands that "nobody wanted" operates a station at Thompson, but the legendary days of An early-day rancher gave the rock formation located just years ago. the cattle era are over. Interstate 70 passes through the heart of the San Rafael Swell. south of the highway the name "Ghost Rock" one day when Scenic overlooks have been provided at several points along fog obscured the base and gave the crown the appearance of a Paragraph numbers in this brochure are keyed to the map. The notorious "Flat Nose George," a member of Butch the way. ghost floating in the air. Rock castles along the interstate east Mileages are approximate. Cassidy's Wild Bunch, was killed on the main street of Thomp­ of here reminded someone of the "Arabian Nights" and earned son. the area the name, Sinbad Country. The major land forms observed while traveling this stretch of The Bureau of Land Management is seeking to protect the I-70 are the Bookcliff Mountains to the north, and the rela­ interesting sites and scenic beauty of the entire San Rafael tively flat Mancos Desert to the south. The Bookcliffs contain Swell by adopting management plans which limit or control in excess of one billion tons of low sulfur coal. This national resource uses that could destroy the scenic quality of this resource is becoming very important as fuel for power gener­ region. (You can help this effort by not littering.) ating plants, as well as thousands of commonly used products. ore as an ingredient in pottery glaze. He did not realize then Large pale red splotches on the cliffs are where coal near the that one day uranium from Temple Mountain would be used Much of the rugged canyon country north of the interstate is surface is naturally oxidizing. in making one of the first atomic bombs. particularly beautiful and is in almost the same wild condition as it was when man first visited the Swell. Some of this land is At the turn of the century this desert was a primary grazing Today, the search for uranium continues in the San Rafael being preserved so present and future generations may enjoy it To some travelers this area seems to be one of the most Swell. Recently opened mines just east of the Reef and a area for domestic sheep. The town of Cisco was a major in its natural, primitive state. desolate sections of 1-70. True, there isn't much tall or green short distance north of I-70 are producing ore. sheep shearing center and in the spring, upwards of 100,000 vegetation, but this salt desert shrub ecosystem is alive with sheep were driven here to be shorn and shipped to market. plants and animals. In May, the prickly pear cactus, Spanish dagger, and Indian paintbrush are in bloom. The vast bands of sheep soon overgrazed the desert. In 1934, © © Congress established the Taylor Grazing Service (which be­ THE HIDING PLACE The Bookcliff Mountains host a sizeable population of ANTIQUITIES came the BLM in 1946) under which scientific grazing systems mountain lions, bobcats, elk, mule deer, and black bear. One were implemented. Today Grand County supports about The maze of canyons, rock monuments, and wooded table­ "critter" which always adds a comical interlude is the common The canyons and cliffs of the San Rafael Swell record a long 40,000 sheep and 4,000 head of cattle every winter. lands in the San Rafael Swell made it an excellent hiding whitetail prairie dog. Living in large colonies along 1-70, these history of man's presence. A stone projectile point, estimated place for those "on the dodge" from the law. Most who came animals feed on the desert grasses and in turn supply coyotes to be 6,000 years old, was found in this vicinity. here for that reason simply were avoiding the authorities after and golden eagles with many a meal. Keep an eye open, for some minor infraction, but others have become famous in here on the desert, golden eagles, coyote and antelope are a Indians of the Fremont culture inhabited the Swell between outlaw history. In 1897, Butch Cassidy and Elsa Lay stole the common sight. © 700 and 1250 A.D. They left considerable evidence of their mine payroll at Castle Gate, Utah, making off with $10,000 in GREEN RIVER, UTAH occupation, Including camp sites, stone granaries, and writings loot. They eluded two sheriffs' posses in the canyons of the painted or carved on canyon or rock formation walls. Black Swell. At this town, I-70 crosses the Green River. This largest tri­ Dragon Canyon, about a mile to the north, is named for one butary of the Colorado River system was the last major such pictograph which some people claim depicts a creature Other outlaws used the Swell as a hiding place for stolen live­ river to be explored in the United States. In 1869, Major John resembling a large winged reptile or pterodactyl. A nearby stock. The canyon-cut tableland north of the highway was W. Powell and a party of nine men made a historic voyage figure is a quadruped with hands on its front feet. used so frequently for this purpose that it was given the name of exploration from Green River, Wyoming to the "settle­ of "Secret Mesa." o ment" of Las Vegas, Nevada. The journey took 100 days, and Other pictographs showing men on horseback were apparently WESTWATER the party ran the rapids of Ladore, Desolation, Cataract and carved by Ute Indians sometime after the Spanish brought the Grand Canyon. Today, river running is a multi-million horses into this region. The Colorado River cuts its way to the south of 1-70, and dollar recreation industry and the canyons Powell explored are access is available from the Westwater freeway exit for re­ now protected by BLM and the National Park Service for <E> creational Whitewater raft trips through Westwater Canyon.
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