Somerset Wildlife Trust

SOMERSET Greening your grounds

A guide to making the best of your school grounds for children and for nature Somerset Wildlife Trust School Grounds Information Pack

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

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Contents

Getting Started Know what’s there Site design Action plan

Habitat Creation Ponds Meadows Woodland

Habitat Management Ponds Meadows Woodland

Species Management Butterflies Birds Bats

Simple Measures Mini habitats Planting trees and shrubs Hedgerows Sustainability

Site Facilities Paths and steps Fences Walls, Seats and Signs

Useful Information Further information Contacts and suppliers

Information correct at time of going to press (November 2007) E&OE. © Somerset Wildlife Trust SWT would like to thank everyone who generously allowed us to use their photographs in this publication

Photo: Richard Burkmar www.brianphipps.net

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Introduction

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The traditional view of school grounds is simply as a place for children to let off steam but it is now becoming more widely accepted that school grounds could offer much, much more. It is increasingly recognised that there are real health, wellbeing and educational benefits to be gained from the presence of natural spaces in school grounds. Not to mention the additional benefits to be gained simply from children being active in the outdoor environment, engaging in activities such as gardening. Indeed school grounds can provide “uniquely rich and rewarding learning experiences for children of all ages, backgrounds and abilities, giving them a greater understanding of the world around them” (Education Minister, Stephen Twigg 2003). One increasingly popular way of transforming school grounds into nurturing, life enhancing places is by creating a wildlife area. This pack is full of ideas to help you make the best of your school grounds for wildlife, whether you are thinking of creating a dedicated wildlife area, are just looking for a few ideas or already have a wildlife area that has become messy and overgrown. Even if it is not possible for you to set aside a whole dedicated area for wildlife, there are still a number of simple measures that may be adopted that will not only be of benefit to your children but also to biodiversity.

Using this Pack This pack aims to guide you through the various stages of planning a wildlife area, creating new habitats and subsequently managing them, things you can do to benefit certain species and things you can do if you only have limited time or space available. At the end there is also a section with further information and advice, such as a list of some useful publications and contacts and the Wildlife Watch Health and Safety fact sheet. Before you do anything, take a little time to read and reflect on what you have been sent. If you are intending to use this pack outdoors you may find it helpful to laminate the pages so they are waterproof.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Introduction

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One key message for anyone hoping to improve their school grounds for children and wildlife alike is that the most successful projects always involve the pupils at the very beginning and then continue to do so through every stage of the process. The only limits are the practical considerations set out in the pack and their imaginations! Remember it is advisable to engage with other key stakeholders at an early stage, such as the school governors, other staff members and parents. Such people may be able to bring expertise to your project and the chances of sustaining the grounds in future are greatly enhanced if people feel ownership of the project. It is also imperative that if you are thinking of changing your school grounds you contact the Property Services team at Somerset County Council to discuss any alterations prior to implementation (see ‘Contacts’ section).

Whatever you decide to do, it is important to remember that the most successful projects start small, so be careful not to take on too much. We have kept the information as simple as possible so that everyone can get involved. If you need further advice, please contact the Somerset Wildlife Trust and someone will try to help. The other organisations listed in the ‘Contacts’ section may also be happy to help. On completion of your wildlife area why not contact the Education Team at the Somerset Wildlife Trust. They will be more than happy to provide suggested curriculum links to help you use your new grounds to their full extent and may be able to come out and provide school-based training in your new wildlife area. Good luck with your project!

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Know what’s there

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Before you start work on the design of your project it is essential to find out what you already have in your site. It can also be useful to get to know the local landscape or townscape and the wildlife it supports with a view to complementing that. The Somerset Environmental Records Centre may be able to provide you with information regarding the wildlife in your local area (see ‘Contacts’ section). Remember that it is important to be realistic about the wildlife that might be attracted to your site; however it is equally important to remember that this does not mean it is not worth trying, as whatever wildlife you do attract will almost certainly make your site valuable for your children.

Following these initial steps you will need to come up with a site design but you will find this much easier if you already have some detailed background information about your grounds. This will also help you decide on the most appropriate location for your wildlife area.

This background research can be a fun and educational exercise for the children to do. They will need to find out about a number of key things within your site:

1 Wildlife and habitats (e.g. trees, ponds) 2 Man-made features (e.g. paths, steps) 3 Difficulties or problems (e.g. litter, bramble invasion) 4 How the site has been used in the past 5 Restrictions on your site (e.g. underground cables)

You will be able to find out about most of these things by conducting a survey and you should note your findings on a site map. Photo: Richard Burkmar

Wildlife and Habitats The first step in finding out about the wildlife is to divide the site into different areas according to the type of habitat present (e.g. woodland, hedge, meadow, stream or pond). An example checklist has been provided over the page.

Once you have done this, you should try to list down the plants and animals found in each area. Mark down on your map what you feel is the most important feature of each habitat. For example ash woodland or cowslip meadow (for help with identification, see ‘Further Information’ section).

Man-made features Man-made features such as walls, fences, paths and seats affect the way you will look after your site. They should be added to your map.

Difficulties or Problems Look for any potential ‘problems’ that will affect the way you are going to look after your site. There are usually two types of problem:

1 Problems caused by nature – Most valuable natural features need some form of care or management to keep their existing value to wildlife. This is because any area that is left alone will tend to develop into woodland through the process of succession. If you want features other than woodland, you will have to control this natural process by active management. Look for where this is happening and note it on your map. For example, if you have a wildlife area that has not been managed for sometime, the meadow may be threatened by the growth of bramble or the pond may be becoming choked by reeds and rushes.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

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2 Problems caused by people – Problems caused by people such as broken fences, worn paths, litter and erosion are usually easier to notice. Note what is happening and mark it down on you map. Investigating Past Use and History It is useful to try to find out about the history of your site as this will often influence what work needs to be done. Although most school grounds will have been purpose built, some may have been created from old meadows, in which case there may still be a good seed bank in the soil. Or, in existing wildlife areas, a pond may have dried out because of a break in the liner, or a meadow may be covered in bramble because it has not been cut. It is worth pointing out at this stage that a Photo: Richard Burkmar little ‘neglect’ is often not a bad thing. In fact such areas may play host to a wealth of different species. It may be that what is at first glance apparently neglected will only require a minimal amount of management to make it appear less neglected and therefore more pleasing to the tidy minded eye, whilst maintaining a high value for wildlife.

Checking for Restrictions It is important to check what restrictions exist on your site such as overhead electricity or telephone lines, land drains, sewage pipes or underground pipes for gas or water supply etc. Details should be available from your local district council planning department (see ‘Contacts’ section), or the local offices of the relevant electricity or gas company. Add these restrictions to your map to ensure they are taken into account in planning the site layout.

SITE SURVEY CHECKLIST Use this checklist to help you divide up your site into its different elements.

Habitats Landscaped Problems features Litter Pond Broken fence or wall Marsh Wall Worn paths Stream Building Erosion Hedge Shed Overgrown/unmanaged Wood Path pond or stream Scrub Seats Overgrown/damaged Orchard Bicycle rack hedge Sapling Signs Overgrown/unmanaged Mature tree Fence wood or meadow Veteran tree Gate Invading plants Meadow Steps Lawn/Flowery lawn Restrictions Rough grass Overhead lines Bank Electricity cables Ditch Gas pipes Land drains Other

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Site Design

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If you want to add something new to your school grounds a site design will be needed. This is essential if you are creating your wildlife area from scratch. If you just want to update an existing wildlife area you can go straight to the action plan stage. But if you want to add new features to your existing wildlife area, you may find that a site design will still be helpful. You should then use your site design when drawing up an action plan.

Site design involves deciding on the layout of your site. You must consider both the ‘soft landscape’ of grass, shrubs and trees, and the ‘hard landscape’ of buildings, footpaths and fences. Although your intention may be to create a wildlife area it is important to remember that there is little point in creating a wonderful oasis for wildlife within your school grounds if it cannot be used and experience by people. Therefore you may find it most effective to decide on and lay out the spaces for people first and then fit the wildlife habitat around these.

THE SOFT LANDSCAPE

What to keep If possible try to avoid damaging existing wildlife habitats when designing new features. From your site survey you should have a good idea of which areas support a variety of wildlife (see ’Know What’s There’ for more information). If you can incorporate these areas into your design and plan to keep and care for them you may find your site is more of an instant success.

Creating new habitats New habitats can be created in areas of Photo: RSPB close mown grassland, tarmac and other places which do not already provide for wildlife. The type and range of habitats you can create depends on your resources and the character of your site. As you will need to provide ongoing management for your site remember it is essential to talk to your grounds maintenance staff at an early stage to ensure what you plan is feasible in terms of future management.

Consider the following seven points when planning the creation of new habitats:

1. The size of the site – both large and small sites can be improved for wildlife. Design new habitats to match the size of the site. For example a new woodland should not take over a small playground.

2. Site character and underground services – how fertile or damp is the soil? Where are the sunny corners? How close are the nearest buildings? The character of your site will help you decide on the best places for trees, ponds and other new features. For instance it is not advisable to plant trees close to buildings. Find out where the service cables and pipes pass through your site. These will affect where you dig ponds or plant trees. Consult the local authority where information is not available.

3. Making the most of special features ¬– hollows may be suitable for ponds, banks for wildflower planting and sheltered sunny corners for butterfly gardens. Use special features to their full advantage.

4. Protected areas – certain areas such as ponds may need to be secured for safety reasons. This may be achieved through the use of fences or walls and it is usually a good idea to have a lockable gate. You can help guide people around the site to the less sensitive areas by the use of carefully laid out paths and seats.

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5. Linking habitats – try to make natural links or ‘wildlife corridors’ between habitats. This will allow wildlife to move between one area and another. For instance hedgerows are good for linking wooded areas.

6. Soft edges – your design should produce natural ‘soft edges’ between habitats. Grass should be left to grow up around ponds. Bushes can be allowed to spread from woodland edges. Meadow areas can look cared for by regularly mowing a one-metre strip next to, or instead of, footpaths.

7. Resources – plan your site to match your resources. Both people and money are important. Do not create habitats that you, or your grounds maintenance team, will not be able to care for in the future.

THE HARD LANDSCAPE

Seats, paths and fences help show Hornniman Museum London that an area is cared for (see ‘Site Facilities’ section for further details). Such structures should blend with each other and also with the natural surroundings; though within this a range of materials and textures can be attractive. Additional structures such as willow tunnels can be used to add interest to the site. If you want to retain the option to vary the design in future, you could try having moveable seats (though these may be at risk from theft). You could also mow some of the paths through your meadow area so that in different years you can have the paths in different places.

Outdoor classrooms

These are becoming increasingly popular as the benefits are now widely accepted. There are now several good designs available or if you are feeling more adventurous you could try asking your pupils to help you design your own (see ‘Further Information’ section). Temporary ones are obviously the simplest to create. Whatever you decide, remember to make sure there is plenty of shade.

Site Interpretation and Additional Structures

You may want to consider the possibility of including signs to provide information on certain aspects of your site and perhaps to guide people round. You may also want to add structures to assist with waste reduction, for example recycling bins and compost heaps. These are all discussed later in this pack.

Once you have decided on all of the above factors you will be in a position to draw up your design plan.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Action Plan

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If your school intends to create new habitat, whether it is a wildflower meadow, pond or woodland, you must remember that management is essential. Ensure you have the means to maintain your wildlife area before you waste valuable time and effort, not to mention resources, on a project you are subsequently unable to manage. This should help prevent disappointment at a later stage.

It is often a good idea to start small, perhaps with a few simple and easy to manage features, and add to these over time to build up the number of features/habitats found within your wildlife area. Indeed there can be some educational merit in developing a site in this way as doing so enables different groups of children to participate in design and implementation.

Whatever your approach, if you are going to look after an area for wildlife you will need an action plan. This will help you to plan what to do, when to do it and how to achieve it. It will help to sort out possible problems. The action plan will ensure that the project can continue even if the people involved change. Before producing an action plan, you must carry out a site survey and may need to produce a site design (see ‘Know What’s There’ and ‘Site Design’ sections). Time spent on these stages will make sure you will be more successful when the hard work starts later.

Keep your plan clear and short. It should plan ahead for at least 5 years, but don’t worry – you can make changes along the way. Follow this simple format for an effective Surrey Wildlife Trust wildlife action plan:

PART 1 – AIMS

Why are you doing your project? Think about and then write down the aims of your project at the start of your action plan. Remember – it is not unusual to have several aims. Some typical aims are given below: a. to help children enjoy and understand the natural environment b. to improve or restore your site for wildlife c. to provide for people with special needs d. to allow children the opportunity to work and play in a safe outdoor environment

PART 2 – INFORMATION

It is useful to have all the information about your site at your fingertips. Your survey and design, together with the maps you have produced, will provide the following information for inclusion in the action plan.

1 Wildlife 2 Man-made features 3 Problems you are likely to face 4 How it has been managed in the past 5 Restrictions on the site

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

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PART 3 – DECIDING WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE

Once you have the information you need, you will be ready to write down the action you will need to take in order to implement the design and subsequently look after your site. Details of how to go about looking after the features of your site are given in the other sections of this pack. There are four general types of work which you will need to think about.

1 Looking after the structure – paths, fences, steps, seats and signs will need to be looked after and repaired. New ones can be added where they are needed. 2 Managing or creating wildlife habitats – all wildlife habitats will need to be managed. You may also be able to create new ones (such as a pond) in areas which are not of value to wildlife. Design ideas are in the ‘Site Design’ section. 3 Controlling litter – litter not only makes a site look neglected, but can be bad for wildlife too. Litter should be cleared up regularly. 4 Monitoring change – your site will change as the years go by, so you should monitor what happens over time. Monitoring will tell you if your project is going the way you planned. It will also help you decide on future work. At a minimum photos can be taken – ones taken from a fixed point can be particularly telling – and, with more expertise, wildlife records can be kept. This can be extremely fun and informative for children of all ages (see ‘Further Information’ for references on species identification) and could possibly be built into school projects.

Writing a work plan and drawing a map www.brianphipps.net Once you have decided what to do with your site, it helps to break down the work into smaller tasks. This might include planting trees, clearing ponds or putting up fences. When you have decided upon these tasks you can put them into a work plan. Include the times when you need to do the work and what you need to prepare beforehand. Once you have drawn up your work plan, you will be able to see the amount of work required at any one time. You may find it helpful to draw another map to show exactly what you plan to do. It can also be really helpful to write out the main points of this plan as a year planner as this is a simple way of reminding you what needs to be done and when. This can be particularly useful if printed on the reverse of the map so that you have all the information you need at your fingertips. It may be worth laminating this sheet, which can then provide a useful guide to contractors and others who will be carrying out the work. But do make sure you have a fuller work plan to refer back to if needed.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

Pond Creation SOMERSET

Wildlife ponds are one of the most rewarding additions to school grounds. More than 75% of the ponds that existed at the beginning of the last century have now been lost so the creation of a new pond has real ecological benefits as well as being an excellent teaching resource. But it is important to remember that open water can be dangerous so you may want to consider securely fencing your pond off from the rest of your site or covering it with a grill. You may also want to add some signs warning people of the potential danger. That said a wildlife pond can give you hours of pleasure as you watch dragonflies darting, birds bathing and frogs blinking up at you! Upon completion of your wildlife pond, why not have a go at pond dipping to see what creatures live in your pond? This simple activity is always a popular one with children of all ages. Contact the Education Team at the Somerset Wildlife Trust for more information and advice on this and other activities (see ‘Contacts’ section). SITING THE POND 1 Make sure your pond will not destroy something that is already good for wildlife such as an old wildflower meadow or headwater stream. Avoid damming or impounding streams as these will often support their own characteristic plants and animals, and in general the Environment Agency advises against it for ecological reasons. 2 Wooded ponds are often considered to be less aesthetically pleasing than those in a sunny spot although they do support unique wildlife communities and should not be undervalued. You may prefer to opt for a sunny sheltered spot where sun reaches the pond most of the day as this type of pond usually houses more spectacular wildlife. 3 Avoid overhanging trees as rotting leaves will reduce the amount of oxygen in the pond and cause the pond to silt up, but remember some trees can really enhance a pond, sheltering it and providing cover for visiting animals. Some trees may have Preservation Orders so make sure you check with the local authority before removing trees (see ‘Contacts’ section). 4 Ponds near rivers may require permission from the Environment Agency (see ’Contacts’ section). 5 Dig your pond well away from services such as underground gas and water pipes. Before selecting your preferred site get advice from your local authority and check service plans for your school. 6 Check for any potential sources of pollution and dig your pond well away from these. POND DESIGN AND EXCAVATION – Once you have decided where to put your pond, you should mark out a suitable shape with canes or string. Ponds can be dug at most times of year, but a pond started in spring will develop the fastest. Try to make your pond a similar size to a typical field pond. This will mean it should be richer in wildlife and easier to maintain in a balanced state. 6 by 8 metres is a good size. It does not need to be deep as most pond life is found in water that is just a few centimetres deep around the margins of the pond. However it does need to be at least 0.5 metres deep in the centre to stop it freezing in winter (one other way to stop a pond freezing over in winter is to float an object, such as a football, in the pond). A good design is a saucer shape with gently sloping edges (so that animals can get in and out) and an irregular shoreline with ‘bays’ to provide secluded areas for wildlife. Shelves and ledges add variation in depth. Before you start to dig, decide what you are going to do with all that soil. It could be used as a wildflower and butterfly bank. Or you could use it to create interesting landforms – perhaps an amphitheatre for music, dance or theatre. When you start to dig, strip the turf to keep for edging the pond later. Dig the hole 15- 20cm deeper than the design to allow for the liner and protective layer. Also dig a trench around the edge of the pond so you can bury the edges of the liner at the end. It is vital to check that the lip of the pond is

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

SOMERSET level all the way round. For a very large pond you should get professional advice as it can involve complicated engineering works.

LINING THE POND – There are many different types of liner to choose from. The easiest way to line a small to medium sized pond is to use a flexible liner. These are often the cheapest method and they give you the greatest scope for you to design a varied pond shape. For large ponds clay is best, with a clay ‘raw mat’ liner being a greener choice; see the ‘Further Information’ section for references describing the various methods. But beware, most liners are very vulnerable to puncture and it is always worth putting a protective layer underneath the liner.

To work out the size of the liner you will need to use the following formula: Length of liner = (1.2 x greatest length of finished pool) + (2 x maximum depth) Width of liner = (1.2 x greatest width of finished pool) + (2 maximum depth)

How to line a pond 1 Check the margins are level and then compact the soil and remove large stones. 2 Cover the hole with a protective layer of sand followed by a layer of old carpet (15cm thick). 3 Place the liner over the hole and position it centrally. It should sink into position. 4 Cover the liner with polyester matting. This will give your liner protection from sunlight, wear and tear and provide a rough surface for soil to cling to. (Matting should be available from suppliers of liners). 5 Carefully place a thin layer of subsoil mixed with washed sand over the matting (remember that top soil is too rich for pond life). Remove any sharp objects. 6 Fill the pond with water, ideally with rain water from a butt. Tap water is best avoided if possible. 7 When full, secure the liner in the trench with soil. Trim the liner and edge with turfs.

CREATING A MARSH – Creating a marsh can add variety to your pond. Extend your liner over a shelf at the edge and fill with subsoil. The shelf should fall just below the water level to allow water into the marsh, but be high enough to prevent it from becoming part of the pond. You can use stone to prevent soil slipping into the pond.

PLANTING – Leave your pond at least a week for the soil to settle before planting. Plant between April and September if possible. Free plants can be obtained from pond owners cleaning out their ponds in the autumn, but beware of invasive non-native plants (see ‘Further Information’). These are often the ones people need to remove from their ponds as they can grow prolifically and are a real pest if they get into the wider countryside. Always plant native species and try to use plants local to your area. Never take plants from the wild.

You can plant into the layer of soil you have provided or put plants on the ledges in perforated pots. Planting in pots controls the growth of vigorous plants such as water-lilies. Different water plants require different depths of water so choose a selection of different types. In small ponds avoid tall plants such as reeds and reedmace.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Meadow Creation

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Although unmown areas are often perceived as being ‘untidy’ and are therefore not often welcomed into the school environment, meadows can provide huge benefits both to children and to biodiversity. If you can persuade people to let you create a meadow, within a few years you could have a marvellous display of grasses and wildflowers which will be a haven for butterflies, grasshoppers and other insects. And, as well as being nice to look at and fun to play in, meadows offer excellent educational opportunities. There is also a range of ways to make meadows look cared for, for example through the use of mown paths, signs or carefully located seats (see ‘Site Facilities’ section).

Sadly in recent years over 95% of our wildflower meadows have disappeared. Although they can never be exactly recreated, with a lot of patience, colourful wildflower meadows can be grown from scratch. But it requires long-term commitment. You may find it helpful to set yourself clear objectives such as to successfully establish ten species of wildflower and three grass species. New meadows composed of native plant species will be of value in most situations but beware – meadow creation can involve introducing plants that may spread to sensitive areas, such as ancient pasture. This can upset the natural balance so if in doubt seek advice. CHOOSING THE RIGHT SPECIES – The soil will determine whether your meadow is going to be successful and the types of wildflowers most suited to your site. Some soils are naturally too rich to bother with but don’t despair if the soil is too fertile as you could create a rough, ‘tussocky’ grassland instead. This type of habitat will be great for wildlife as it will provide food and cover for invertebrates and small mammals, and may in turn attract owls, kestrels or other birds of prey. It is possible to buy tussock grass seed mixes.

Soil Type Wildflower Does well on most soils Ox-eye daisy, Yarrow, Self-heal, Goat’s beard, Perforate St Johns wort, Yellow rattle (which can help subdue ag- gressive grasses), Meadow buttercup, Meadow cranesbill, Agrimony, Betony, Common bird’s-foot trefoil Prefers limey less fertile soils Salad burnet, Cowslip, Wild carrot Tolerates both limey and acidic soils Devil’s bit scabious Prefers well drained soils Lady’s bedstraw, Field scabious, Black-knapweed Does well on damper soils Bugle, Cuckooflower, greater bird’s-foot trefoil

Important Always use local seed and plants to reflect what grows naturally in your area. If you are unsure about what would naturally be found in your area you may find the Natural History Museum’s Postcode Plant Database useful (see ‘Further Information’). Check that seeds or plants are not imported or grown from unreliable sources; Flora Locale may be able to help with this (see ‘Contacts’ section). Remember 1 When seeding an area with grass, do not use rye-grass or other vigorous types. A mixture of less aggressive species of bent and fescue grasses often works best. You may need advice to work out exactly what you need. 2 When choosing the wildflowers for your meadow, try to copy what would naturally grow in your area. 3 There are a growing number of suppliers specialising in wildflowers, from which you can choose your mix, or contact Flora Locale for more information (see ‘Contacts’ section).

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CONVERTING AN EXISTING GRASSY AREA INTO A MEADOW – It may be possible to turn an existing grassy area into a wildflower meadow but to do this you need to know what is already growing there. Before deciding whether or not to start from scratch it is always worth letting the plants grow during the summer to see what turns up. You will often find that only a few species appear, such as buttercups or daisies, although you may be surprised! My lawn at home in a modern housing development turned out to have a fair proportion of fine grasses and was perfectly suitable for planting in pot grown plants. Although this may not be the case for everyone it shows how helpful it can be to let the plants grow up before deciding on the best course of action. This has saved me a lot of time, money and effort and it also means our lawn has a fungal community that may have been destroyed if we had opted to remove the topsoil first. If you wish to add species to an existing lawn there are two main ways of doing this: Over-seeding – Simply scattering wildflower seed over your grassy area will not be successful. You will need to make gaps to give the seeds a chance to grow. The best way to do this is to remove whole squares of turf and top soil (30cm x 30cm) and then seed with one or two carefully chosen types of wildflower in the autumn. Planting pot grown wildflowers – Wildflowers can be introduced into grassy areas as pot grown plants or plugs. Plugs are younger plants but they are cheaper and provided they are planted in groups they can be a good bet. Local stock can often be bought from nurseries or grown from seed harvested locally or purchased from a supplier. Plant them in groups into the turf, preferably in autumn to allow the roots to become established before competition from the other plants builds up in the spring. To help reduce this, spread mulch around your new plantings or replace the turf upside down.

CREATING A WILDFLOWER MEADOW FROM SCRATCH – If it is not possible to convert your existing grassland into a meadow you may wish to create one from scratch. Preparing the ground – Good ground preparation is essential for success. The secret is a low fertility soil, as a fertile soil will just cause vigorous growth of a few grasses and ‘weeds’. You can reduce fertility by stripping off the top 5-10cm or so of topsoil. Then, after digging over the ground if necessary, lightly rake and roll the soil to produce a seed bed. Sowing the seed – The best time to sow your wildflower seed is in the early autumn. You can sow in April, but many seeds need the cold winter months to break their in-built dormancy. They will therefore not germinate in their first year from a spring sowing. Seed mixes take a while to establish and the ground disturbance can stimulate more aggressive species and a need for high maintenance in the first year or two, as noted above when converting an existing grassy area. For best results 1 Order specific quantities of the different types of seeds you have chosen. Sow them in patches intermixed with a scattering of non-aggressive grasses. 2 The sowing rate should be very low to avoid overcrowding. 0.5g of wildflower seed and 1.0-1.5g of grass mix per square metre is ideal. 3 To get an even spread of seed mix it with sand or sawdust. 4 Immediately after sowing, rake the surface lightly and firm with the back of the rake or a small roller.

AFTERCARE – Take care to look after your new meadow. The ‘Meadow Management’ section gives more detail on this topic but the following gives a very brief guide on caring for a newly created meadow: 1 When the seeds have germinated and the grasses reached a height of about 10cm, the meadow should be cut. This will knock back unwanted ‘weeds’ such as groundsel and chickweed. Any thistles and docks should be pulled up. 2 Before cutting, you can lightly roll the meadow to firm the plants into the soil. 3 During the first year try to cut your meadow every 6-8 weeks. This will help meadow plants to become established. Always remove the cuttings to prevent a build up of dead plant material. 4 In following years, adopt a twice year mowing pattern (see ‘Meadow Management’ section).

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Woodland Creation

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Not all schools will be fortunate enough to have grounds large enough to contain woodland without com- promising on areas that are more valuable to the pupils. However, for those lucky few, woodlands can add real value to their grounds. With care and hard work it is possible to plant trees and shrubs to create an area which looks, smells and feels like a real woodland within a few years. If you do not have room to create a whole woodland then why not consider planting a tree or two instead? See ‘Planting Trees and Shrubs’ sec- tion for further details. IMPROVING EXISTING AREAS OF WOODLAND – A few simple changes can transform old trees into new woodlands, no matter how small the area.

1 Allow the grass around the base of the trees to grow up. With luck woodland wildflowers will begin to blossom. 2 Plant shrubs which enjoy shade, such as hazel and holly, beneath the trees. 3 Plant some replacements for the existing trees. The best results will be achieved if they are of the same type. For example if you have an area of oak, plant a sprinkling of oak seedlings among the shrubs. 4 Try to make sure you keep the new trees and shrubs well watered – conditions could be hostile to start with. If you are lucky enough to have veteran trees in your school grounds try to retain these wherever possible rather than surrounding them with vegetation. Veteran trees are important both ecologically and historically but they may be damaged by adjacent planting, for instance through shading. Consider planting new replacement trees as in point 3 above.

CHOOSING A PLACE TO PLANT A NEW WOOD – New woods can be planted in a wide variety of places or areas close to existing woodland could be allowed to grow up naturally. Wherever you choose to create a woodland, re- member these points: 1 Do not plant your wood on an area that is already good for wildlife. For instance a wildflower meadow would be destroyed if trees were to grow over it. 2 Find out where services, such as gas and electricity, run and plant well away from them. 3 Avoid planting wide rooting trees such as willows and poplars near buildings. 4 Think about the shade your tree will cast. Don’t plant in an area you want to remain sunny, such as next to your pond or vegetable garden. 5 Don’t plant big trees such as oak or ash on a small site. 6 Choose trees which grow locally. Try not to plant trees which are not found naturally in your area. PLANTING A NEW WOOD – New woods should be planned to reflect natural woodland with different layers of trees, shrubs and wildflowers.

Shrubs Edge types Blackthorn, Dog rose, Field maple Centre Types Hazel, Holly, Hawthorn, Wild Privet Trees Canopy trees Ash, Oak Fast growing trees Birch, Alder, Willows

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How to plant 1 Trees should be planted at 2-3 metre intervals; shrubs at distances of 1-1.5 metres. A more natural effect can be achieved by planting several trees and shrubs of the same species together. 2 Plant light-loving trees and shrubs, such as blackthorn, dog rose and field maple, at the edges. Shrubs which enjoy shade, such as hazel, holly, hawthorn and wild privet, should be planted in the centre. 3 If you plant tall-growing trees such as oak and ash these will reach a reasonable height in about 25 years. 4 To create a woodland effect more quickly, plant fast growing trees such as birch, willow or alder. These will create a woodland effect in about 10-15 years. For specific details on tree planting see the section on ‘Planting Trees and Shrubs’.

LOOKING AFTER A NEW WOOD – It is important to look after a newly planted wood. The following points should give you some idea of the basics: 1 Prune shrubs down to 40-60cm in the first winter after planting. This will stimulate bushy growth and provide cover and nesting sites for wildlife. 2 Water regularly, especially during the first summer. Shrubs may die and will need to be replaced during the following winter. 3 Weed around new trees and shrubs to stop competition for food, water and light from brambles and grasses. This problem can be dramatically reduced by mulching around the base of newly planted trees with bark chippings. 4 As your woodland develops it may start to become overcrowded, so you will have to thin the trees. This involves removing the smaller or weaker trees and shrubs to give the more successful ones a chance to survive. See ‘Woodland Management’ section. Making your wood a better place for wildlife – Once the trees and shrubs have become established, there are lots of things you can do to make your wood a better place for wildlife. 1 Introduce dead wood – this is very important to woodland wildlife. Log piles are ideal. 2 Plant a mix of native woodland wildflowers. Primroses, violets, bluebells (not the Spanish variety), wood anemone and ramsons may do well. See ‘Contacts’ section for details of some suppliers. 3 If your wood is big, you can create open areas such as glades and rides. These are good for bringing light and warmth into your woodland. This will be attractive to many plants and animals, especially butterflies. See ‘Woodland Management’ section.

LONG TERM FUTURE OF THE WOODLAND – It is important to consider the long-term management of your woodland – see ‘Woodland Management’ section. An important thing to remember is that, as with all habitat creation, you should not enter into it unless you have the means of maintaining it in future.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Pond Management

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Ponds can be a real haven for wildlife. Even a small pond can be alive with frogs, newts, dragonflies and many attractive plants. However over the last 100 years nearly one million ponds have disappeared. It is vital those that remain are properly looked after; ‘The Pond Book’ is an excellent source of information on this matter (see ‘Further Information’). You will find it easier to decide on the most appropriate management if you spend some time surveying the pond first. Once you know more about the plants and animals living in your pond, as well as the history of the pond, you should be in a better position to choose the best course of action. If your school does not have the capacity to undertake detailed surveys try to gather as much information as you can and manage the pond in a non-invasive way in order to minimise any potential for damage. For instance you should try not to drastically alter the conditions of an established pond without first seeking expert advice. For example a wooded pond may support unique communities that will not be able to survive in a sunny pond and so to remove surrounding vegetation could cause irreparable harm. Before you start work on your pond try to observe it throughout a whole year, particularly if you have not had a professional survey carried out. Ponds can change significantly from season to season and in most cases the need for management will not be so urgent that it is worth risking further damage through rushing in without first fully understanding your pond. And remember that non-intervention can sometimes be a valid management technique. If you have a specific problem with your pond, such as excessive algal growth, spend some time trying to work out the main causes before implementing any management.

VEGETATION Bankside plants – If your pond is in a sunny spot and you wish to maintain this, overhanging trees and shrubs will need to be carefully controlled. Too many leaves falling into the pond can cause the pond to silt up and will reduce the amount of oxygen in the pond. Some trees can cast a deep shade which will prevent pond plants from growing. Cut back overhanging branches on a regular basis. Water plants – Fast-growing fringing water plants, such as reedmace and common reed, often spread to dominate a pond. Careful management of single-species stands may help the more delicate species but remember that if in doubt it is best to leave plants alone. Plants living on or below the surface can be a problem too. Invasive non-native species such as parrot’s-feather can spread rapidly and take over. The spread of these vigorous plants will prevent light from reaching your pond making it less attractive to pond creatures. Invasive species should be removed immediately. Management of plants can be done by digging, cutting or raking. Take care not to damage the pond lining. The vegetation collected must be cleared from the pond but leave it on the sides for 24 hours to allow some of the animals to crawl back in.

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Algal blooms – In small amounts the presence of algae should not be a cause for concern. It can in fact support large numbers of invertebrates. However new or recently dredged ponds or those with high nutrient levels can suffer from algal blooms. These can be fatal to other pond life. If your pond is new or has recently been dredged the bloom may only be temporary, present often for only a few months. Where high nutrient levels, usually from fertiliser run-off, are the problem the bloom will be more long-lived. The best approach is to try to reduce the nutrient levels, both within the pond and at source. Carefully raking off blankets of algae to maintain areas of open water will help by removing some of the nutrients locked up in the vegetation. This is unlikely to completely solve the problem, although if repeated regularly it can be quite effective. Barley straw can be used to suppress algal growth but this method will not help to reduce nutrient levels. If the problem persists you may need to remove some sediment as these store nutrients. WATER POLLUTION Pollution often affects ponds but can be difficult and costly to deal with. Signs of pollution include oil films, scum, excessive algal blooms or an unpleasant smell. The cause may include contamination by pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or run-off from roads. The best advice that can be given here is to try to avoid pollution in the first place for instance through the use of buffer strips or physical barriers around your pond. If your pond appears to be polluted from an outside source you should try to find out where it is coming from. If your pond is fed from a stream, the regional office of the Environment Agency (see ‘Contacts’ section) should be consulted for advice. A pond suffering from a build-up of dead plant material may need dredging, though disturbing silt in this way can lead to algal blooms and should be considered carefully before being undertaken. Small ponds can be done by hand; for a larger pond a mechanical digger should be used. Whichever method you use care must be taken not to damage the pond lining. And in either case you should aim to not remove more than a quarter of the silt in a 5 year period unless you have had a professional survey carried out. Many animals spend the winter in the sediment and so you will need to retain enough silt to allow the pond to restock itself. CRACKED OR PUNCTURED LINING Whatever the lining of your pond, you may find that cracks or punctures appear after a few years of wear and tear. Flexible liners – Flexible liners, such as butyl and polythene, will sometimes crack if exposed to sunlight. They may also be punctured or pierced by sharp objects, and are particularly vulnerable when being cleared. Fortunately there are a number of ways of repairing them. For butyl liners you can seal holes above the waterline using mastic tape. If you have a hole below the waterline you will have to drain the pond and repair small puncture holes or cracks using liquid rubber or butyl patches. Ponds can be drained using buckets, a siphon or a pump. You can prevent cracking happening again by ensuring the liner is covered with a layer of subsoil (remember – topsoil is too rich for use in ponds). If you have extensive cracks or holes these will be very difficult to repair and may not be worth the effort. It will probably be best to start again and reline your pond. Clay lining – Clay lined ponds can be repaired by draining and re-puddling to reseal the gaps. Puddling involves pounding the wet clay together by trampling over it to make it water-tight. This can be great fun for children to help with! Remove any silt from the surface of the clay before puddling so as not to contaminate it. A wooden plank is useful for spreading your weight across the clay and helping to achieve a smoother surface. TIMING OF WORK The ideal time to carry out work in and around your pond is between September and December. This is because the breeding season for animals is over, aquatic plants will have died back and young water birds will have grown up. However pond dredging should take place in early autumn. It should never be carried out in winter because frogs and other animals will be hibernating in the mud.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Meadow Management

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Meadows can be a haven for wildlife, but only if they are properly looked after. If unmanaged, dead plants will build up and the area will quickly turn to coarse grasses and vigorous weeds such as thistles before turning into scrub and then eventually secondary woodland. Ancient wildflower meadows have been cut or grazed in the same way for centuries. Most of the plants and animals within your meadow can be conserved by grazing, although this is unlikely to be a viable option in schools, or cutting in a traditional way. However, meadow management can be complex. Before any work is started, you should survey your meadow to find out whether it is particularly species-rich or contains any rare or unusual wildflowers. Such meadows need careful management. Conducting a survey is always useful starting point, and this could perhaps be carried out as part of a school project, repeated periodically.

CUTTING/MOWING This is probably the most viable option for schools. If you are going to cut your meadow, it is best done twice a year at the following times: • Once in late summer (end of July or August) to give the meadow plants the best chance to flower and set seed. • Once in early spring (late March to early April) to knock back thistles and vigorous grasses that may have taken hold over the winter since the previous cut.

It is important to note that the cuttings must be removed. This will make sure that the wildflowers can grow and will avoid enriching the soil. This will in turn prevent thistles, docks, brambles and scrub from taking over. One simple way to remove the cuttings, if you do not have a machine to do this, is to rake the litter following the cut and put the clippings on the compost heap. Cutting is flexible, allowing a great deal of control over the timing, area and height of the cut. However, cutting a whole meadow in one go can take away all the food needed by insects. A good idea, if possible, is to leave some areas uncut for them. The best way to do this is to cut the edges of your grassland on rotation. Leave a different side uncut each year. A four metre margin is ideal. Cutting can be carried out with a variety of tools. The choice will depend on the size of your meadow and what is available to you. On a small meadow, in medium to long grass, hand scythes or a power strimmer can be used. On a larger area long grass can be cut for hay using a power scythe or a tractor drawn cutter.

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GRAZING This is unlikely to be a viable option for most schools and would not usually be recommended in this kind of situation. However, if someone has a pet pony or access to cows, goats or sheep, you could consider grazing your meadow. Remember that you will need a fully stock proof fence and there will be added health and safety issues due to the presence of animal dung in your meadow. Grazing will obviously not be a good idea if you want your children to have access to the meadow for the part of the year when animals will be present. If you do not have access to any of the animals listed above you might also want to consider grazing with rabbits. This will be less effective than grazing with other species, and the finished effect will be different (with a very short sward), but obviously the health and safety implications will be less too. You will still need to make sure you have a stock proof fence and you might want to consider only letting them out when there are people present, otherwise you will need to bear in mind other factors such as predation by foxes. If you do want to have a go at managing your meadow in this way there a few tips you should remember, but, given the fact that not many schools are likely to opt for this type of management, this section will not go into detail regarding this practice. If you intend to graze your meadow, seek professional advice. The best time to graze is usually in the early spring and late summer/autumn, as with cutting, avoiding periods when the ground is particularly wet. Grazing might only be needed for a short time and is often most effective if carried out after cutting; a practice known as ‘aftermath’ grazing. If your meadow has become invaded by ‘weeds’, such as docks and thistles, then animals can be kept on over the summer to knock them back. But remember this is harmful to insects and, depending on the severity of the problem you should aim to only do this every few years.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Woodland Management

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Many of our woods have been in existence since the last ice-age and provide the richest places for wildlife. If you have an area of woodland within your school grounds it is most likely a newly planted one, although some schools may be lucky enough to contain ancient woodland. These will probably have been managed in a careful and sustainable way over the centuries to provide woodland products a fuel. Woods often show signs of traditional management which provided an excellent mix of trees, shrubs and ground plants for wildlife. In order to restore woods to their former glory, and for those who wish to recreate this type of traditional woodland, it might be worth considering using traditional ways of managing them. This section aims to provide a rough guide to the various different methods of woodland management, but beware – managing woodlands is a complex process which varies across the country. If in doubt, seek advice. Most schools will only contain small patches of woodland at most but for those lucky enough to have large woodland the advice given over the page should hopefully be of some assistance. Even if you don’t have a large area of woodland it should be possible to take some of the principles behind the following information and adapt it to suit your particular needs. And there are some management practices which can be of huge benefit to wildlife whatever the size of your wood.

DEAD WOOD – Old dead and dying standing trees and fallen dead wood provide food for almost a thousand types of animal and many types of fungus, lichen and moss. Having some dead wood around your school is one of the best and simplest things you can do for wildlife. The following steps may give you some ideas for the different ways you could approach this. 1 Where there is no risk to people leave dead or dying trees standing for as long as possible. Woodpeckers and numerous other species will love this. 2 If possible do not break up stumps or piles of dead or rotting wood. A whole fallen tree is better for wildlife than one that has been cut up. 3 But, if you are unable to take either of the steps above, leaving piles of wood is still an excellent thing to do for wildlife. Creating log piles may also prove to be a more viable option where untidiness is a concern, although there will be a health and safety issue regarding the potential use for climbing. 4 Brushwood and timber from thinning or coppicing could be left in piles or turned into ‘dead hedges’. As well as providing dead wood, it will provide nesting places for birds and small mammals. Again, though, this may not be the favoured option for the ‘tidy-minded’.

VETERAN TREES – There are specialist contractors available to carry out any necessary trees works on veteran trees. Works to such trees need to be carried out with a light touch and with a view to prolonging the life of the tree. Even where such a tree must be felled for health and safety reasons it may still be possible to leave a large standing trunk to provide wildlife habitat for many years.

GLADES AND RIDES – Glades are open patches in woodland and rides are wide grassy tracks. These places provide light for woodland wildflowers to flourish and areas for insects such as butterflies to feed and breed. Rides and glades must be maintained to stop them from becoming overgrown. One of the best ways is to create a mixture of grasses and shrubs through mowing and cutting. For large woods, rides can be up to 20-30m wide and a glade can be about half the size of a typical football pitch, though of course the scale can be tailored to suit the size of your woodland! For both glades and rides, grassy areas should be cut each year in the autumn. Taller ground plants on the edges should be cut every two years at the same time. The shrubby edge should be cut every 5-10 years during the winter months. All grass cuttings should be removed, but twigs and other ‘brash’ can be piled up and left. For rides – Do not cut a whole ride in one go. Mow alternate edges each year. This will help to make sure there are always areas of tall plants for insects and other animals to eat.

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For glades – It is very important that the glade is big enough so that sunlight reaches the ground, even in the middle of winter. It is best if it is fringed by big trees to provide shelter. Glades can be created along rides by ‘scalloping’ the edges to create a sunny, open area. This works best on the north side of an east-west ride as it allows sun to reach the ground throughout the year.

THINNING – Newly planted woodlands or those which show no signs of being coppiced may require little management apart from the thinning of trees. It is likely that this is as much management as most woods within school grounds would receive. Thinning involves the removal of poor, weak, diseased or overcrowded trees to make the remaining trees stronger and sturdier. Thinning can also be used to manage neglected woodland where dense shading has reduced the growth of woodland wildflowers and shrubs. On average it should be carried out every 5-10 years. It is important to take advice on how to do this.

COPPICING WITH STANDARDS – From before the early Middle Ages until the late nineteenth century most woodlands were coppiced. This involves the periodic cutting back of trees or shrubs to ground level, leaving them to sprout new stems from the cut stumps. This gives rise to the rapid production of small round wood which was used for broom handles, firewood, fencing stakes and hurdles. If there has been a long break in the coppice cycle it would be a good idea to have a specialist survey of the wildlife before reintroducing the practice to avoid harming any important shade loving species.

Coppicing is best suited to ancient woodlands which were coppiced in the past and so is unlikely to be suitable for most school grounds. However, starting up new coppices could be an interesting exercise to carry out with newly planted trees and is a good demonstration of the sustainable use of woodlands. This practice encourages the growth of woodland flowers such as bluebells, primroses and violets by allowing light to the woodland floor. In addition to providing wood for hurdle making and other processes mentioned above, coppice woodlands also provided large trees for timber called ‘standards’. These were often oak and were allowed to grow very large before being felled.

When planning coppicing, woodlands should be divided into compartments or ‘coupes’ which can be cut on rotation. In general the best rotation is every 7-15 years. If the coppice is left much longer than 20 years, it may become less valuable, harder to cut and there may be limited benefits. Beware: coppicing is labour intensive so consider leaving some coupes to develop naturally.

Not all types of tree respond to coppicing. Some suitable trees are given in the list below. The cut shoots may require protection from grazing by deer, although this is unlikely to be a problem for most schools. Twigs can be placed over the cut shoots or you can use spare twigs to build a ‘dead hedge’ around the coupe.

THE BEST TREES TO COPPICE: Hazel Field maple Ash Alder Willow Sweet chestnut Oak Small leaved lime Even if you are not interested in managing your woodland through coppicing, you may be interested to have a go with one or two trees to see the effect. You could perhaps even use this as an educational tool.

Photo: R. Remiszewski

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Butterflies

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Butterflies are among our most attractive wild creatures. We are lucky in Britain to have over 50 different types. However, many are becoming rarer due to losses of wildflower meadows, hedgerows and woodlands in the countryside. Pesticide and herbicides have also taken their toll. With a bit of thought, and some careful planning, you can help reverse this decline by making a butterfly garden. This is a relatively straightforward thing to do and it does not have to take up a lot of space in order to be effective, so a butterfly garden can make an attractive feature within any school grounds. Not all the different species of butterfly will visit, as most have special requirements, but you should be able to attract the more common ones. If you are lucky they may even decide to breed!

ATTRACTING BUTTERFLIES TO FEED Some butterflies are highly mobile. They will find their way into almost any garden or wildlife area and will stay if there is something to keep them. They need sugar-rich nectar from flowers so, to attract them, you will need to plant a selection of suitable flowers to provide as much food for as many kinds of butterflies as possible. Butterflies are on the wing from March to October, so provide a good mixture of plants that will flower throughout the spring, summer and autumn. Just choose a selection from the list below. Make sure you have enough of each type of flower to make a visible display and to give off a strong enough scent to attract butterflies to your areas. If you only have a small amount of space, concentrate on planting the best butterfly plants. Remember butterflies love warmth and shelter so make sure your display of flowers is situated in a suitable suntrap, out of the wind. The best time to plant is in the spring. Early flowers , such as Aubretia, are especially useful for feeding newly-woken butterflies in early spring. Honesty and sweet rocket will help to fill a flowering gap during April and May. Later flowering species such as red valerian, thyme and lavender will attract butterflies during the midsummer months. The Ice plant is very popular with butterflies in late summer. In autumn Michaelmas daisy and golden rod can give butterflies which hibernate, such as the peacock, a last chance to stock up with nectar before the winter sets in. Buddleia or ‘Butterfly Bush’ is also well known for attracting butterflies. The light blue flowering varieties are often cited as being the best for butterflies but the purple and white varieties are also good for butterflies as well as a range of other insects. Flowering can be prolonged by ‘dead-heading’. BUTTERFLY PLANTS Spring Aubretia* Aubretia deltoides Honesty Linaria annua Primrose* Primula vulgaris Sweet rocket* Hesperis matronalis Sweet violet Viola odorata Wallflower Cheiranthus cheirii

Lynne Newton Yellow alyssum Alyssum saxatile Summer Mignonette Reseda odorata Lavender* Lavandula spicata Buddleia* Buddleia davidii Valerian* Centranthus ruber Marjoram* Origanum officinale Catmint* Nepeta mussinii Knapweed* Centaurea nigra Thyme* Thymus drucei Heliotrope Heliotropium x hybridum Annual chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum carinatum Thrift Armeria maritima

Lynne Newton Petunia Petunia x hybrida Cornflower Centaurea cyanus Teasel Dispacus fullonum Globe-thistle* Echinops sphaerocephalus

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BUTTERFLY PLANTS Autumn Ice plant* Sedum spectabile Michaelmas daisy* Aster novi-belgii Hyssop Hyssopus officinalis Winter savory Satureia montana Helenium Helenium autumnale Sweet scabious* Scabiosa atropurpurea Goldenrod Solidago virgaurea Petunia Petunia x hybrida * most highly reconmmended

DESIGNING YOUR BUTTERFLY GARDEN When you are planting up your butterfly garden make sure all the plants will have as much sunlight as possible. The best way to do this is to plant the tallest shrubby plants at the back and the smallest at the front.

PERSUADING BUTTERFLIES TO BREED Attracting butterflies to breed is more complicated than attracting them to feed. This is because the female butterfly is choosy about the different types of plant on which she will lay her eggs – different caterpillars like to eat different types of plants. Providing the habitat area is sufficient you can attract the most common butterflies to breed Steve Lane by planting their favourite food plants. Select the food plants for the butterflies of your choice from this list:

Butterfly species Food plant for caterpillars of that species Meadow brown, Hedge brown, Wall brown, Marbled Grasses including meadow grass, false brome, cocks- white, Large skipper, small skipper foot and Yorkshire fog Large and small white Wild and cultivated cabbages Green-veined white, orange tip Lady’s smock, hedge garlic, hedge mustard Brimstone Alder buckthorn & purging buckthorn Common blue Bird’s foot trefoil Holly blue Holly, Ivy Small tortoiseshell, Comma, Red admiral Stinging nettle Painted lady Thistles

Nettle feeders – the easiest group to attract are the nettle feeders; however, recent research has cast some doubt over the effectiveness of nettle areas in attracting butterflies to breed. Such areas also present an obvi- ous health and safety risk and careful consideration will need to be given to whether you wish to incorporate such a feature into your school grounds. If you are inclined to have a go, grow nettles in a sunny, sheltered position. Plant them in an old tub buried in the ground to stop them spreading and causing a nuisance. Small tortoiseshell prefer young nettle growth, so cut down part of your nettle patch in late June or early July (re- moving any caterpillars first) to allow the next generation of butterflies to use the regrowth.

Grass feeders – if you have a lawn you could leave some areas of grass unmown or establish a wildflower meadow (see ‘Meadow Creation’).

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Birds

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Birds suffer from a shortage of suitable nesting places as well as food. Whatever the space you have available you should easily be able to do something that will be of benefit to them. You can help them by providing boxes, and can keep many birds alive through the winter with a well-stocked bird table or feeders.

NEST BOXES There are a wide range of nest boxes available, which cater for a variety of birds. The design pictured opposite is for a simple closed box to attract tits, sparrows or nuthatches. This can easily be modified into an open box for robins of flycatchers by cutting away part of the front panel. Vary the size of the entry hole according to the type of bird you want to attract: • Blue tit/great tit - 25mm • Tree sparrow - 28mm • House sparrow - 29mm • Nuthatch - 28-30mm • Starling - 45mm (you will also need to make the box deeper for starlings; approx. 500mm should be fine)

Site the box in a sheltered position on a tree or wall, facing north east to south east to avoid prevailing wet winds and the heat of the midday sun. Make sure there are clear flight lines in and out of the box. To avoid vandalism or disturbance to the nest it is usually recommended that boxes be at least 2 metres off the ground. Some species, for instance robins or wrens, actually prefer to be nearer the ground than this so if you do not think interference is likely to be a problem on your site you could consider installing some boxes lower than this. Whatever height you install your nest box, it should be away from overhanging branches to stop cats getting to the nest. Clean out the box each year after the birds have finished with it to prevent a build up of parasites. It is a good idea to wear gloves and possibly a face mask while you empty out the old nesting material. It is often possible to identify which species has been using your nest box – this may be a fun thing to record every year to see if there are any changes. You can also give the birds a helping hand by stringing up a ball of nest material. You can buy these from shops but you can just as easily make them yourself and then hang them up for the birds to help themselves.

Photo: Richard Burkmar Photo: www.brianphipps.net

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

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BIRD TABLES You can construct a simple table from exterior grade plywood attached to a pole with metal brackets. You could also use recycled wood for creating bird tables or nest boxes. A lip round the table will prevent food from blowing away, while gaps in the corners will allow drainage.

Make sure you site the table away from shrubs or branches if cats or squirrels are a problem. A roof is not essential, but it will keep the food in better condition for longer. Remember to provide a variety of food – corn or cereals will be good for house sparrows. Put out tempting treats such as peanuts for coal tits, sunflower seeds for greenfinches, niger seed for goldfinches and even Photo: Dylan Mackey cheese for robins. But remember to clean the table regularly.

BIRD FEEDERS Bird feeders are another simple and inexpensive way of attracting birds to your wildlife area. Funding needn’t be a problem either as you can build your collection up gradually over time. To attract a wide range of species, as described above, you may want to consider having a mixture of different feeders such as seed feeders, nut feeders or even fat balls. Fat balls are also a fun thing to make yourself if you don’t mind getting a bit messy! The simplest way to make your own is to mix wild bird seed with vegetable fat.

You can even get feeders that will stick to glass so you can watch them even when you can’t be outside. If your bird feeders prove to be more of a squirrel feeding station than one for birds, you may want to consider investing in some squirrel-proof feeders.

Remember that once you start feeding the birds it is best to continue throughout the year, but especially in winter when natural food supplies are scarce, as birds Photo: Richard Burkmar will often come to rely on your feeders.

It can be a really nice touch to laminate some identification guides near to your bird feeding area (but not so near as to disturb the birds) so that your pupils can find out for themselves which particular species they are watching (see ‘Further Information’). The RSPB has good education resources linked to birds in school grounds (again see ‘Further Information’ section).

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Bats

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As well as being one of the most threatened types of mammal in Britain, bats are also among the most misunderstood. Far from being nasty, dangerous animals, they are attractive small furry insect eaters which need all the help they can get! Bats and humans often live in very close proximity to one another yet most of us glimpse a bat only very occasionally. Even if your school is in an urban location it should still be possible to manage your grounds in a way that will be of benefit to a number of different species.

Bats need a range of roosting sites, including summer daytime roosts, winter hibernation roosts and breeding sites. You can help them to find a suitable roost by putting up a simple bat box. There are many different kinds of bat box ranging from a simple wooden design (shown overleaf), which you could easily make yourself, to the more complex readymade variety.

The frequency of occupation of boxes on a regular basis is actually relatively low but this does not mean it is not worth having a go. The best success rate seems to be with the readymade boxes; for instance the Schwegler boxes made from a mix of wood and concrete, known as ‘woodcrete’, seem to have a good success rate but these boxes are expensive.

Bats can take a while to investigate new premises, but if your box is not occupies within three years, try moving Photo: www.brianphipps.net it. You can check if the box is being used by looking for crumbly brown or black droppings on the ground.

Important – It is important to remember that all species of bats are legally protected in the UK. This means that it is illegal to disturb any bat when it is roosting, or to kill, injure or handle a bat without a licence. If your bat box is occupied or you find a sick or injured bat, contact your local Bat Group or the Somerset Wildlife Trust (see ‘Contacts’).

If you wish to create your own bat box simply follow these guidelines:

1 Make the box from rough sawn timber to give the bats something to cling to. Make sure the wood is untreated as many wood preservatives can kill bats. Providing you can guarantee it would be free from wood preservatives using recycled wood would have additional benefits in terms of sustainability. Thick wood is best but dimension and actual size are not critical.

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Dimensions in centimetres

Tree trunk (cross-section)

2 The best place to position a bat box is on a tree. In summer bats prefer boxes facing south east as these will be warmed by the sun. However, in winter they prefer boxes with a northerly aspect to hibernate in. It is often a good idea to place them in groups around three sides of a tree – to allow for these movements from season to season as temperature changes. Bats also like to move from one box to another during the day.

3 Put the boxes as high as possible above the ground to avoid predators. Some species of bat prefer roosts at least 5m off the ground.

4 Clear away surrounding branches to give them a clear flight path.

5 Boxes can also be located on buildings. A good position is under the eaves to protect them from bad weather.

Many bats naturally tend to roost in old trees, particularly hollow ones, making use of any crevices or hollows. Some species are actually dependent on such trees so it would be good to try to retain knarled old trees wherever possible, unless they have to be removed for other reasons such as health and safety. Such trees are also beneficial to a huge variety of other wildlife as well as being attractive visually.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Mini Habitats

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There are a wide variety of simple measures you can take to improve your school grounds for wildlife even if there is virtually no space available to you. A selection of these measures are outlined below.

GRASS MARGINS One of the simplest and most effective ways to improve even the smallest grounds for wildlife is to leave grass margins of at least 2m around the edge of any lawns, as shown around the edge of the field in the photo opposite. The easiest way to achieve this would be to extend the time between cuts, perhaps only cutting these margins once every year or two. This practice would allow time for invertebrate and small mammal communities to establish. This cut should be done with the blades set at a high level or by hand so that a ‘tussocky’ structure, perfect for small mammals, is retained. To provide continuity of habitat it would be beneficial to wildlife if the edge strips were cut on rotation, thereby allowing animals to move to a new area when one is cut, rather than cutting all sides in a given year.

HABITAT PILES No matter how small an area you can devote to wildlife, one of the best methods by which you can benefit wildlife is to create ‘habitat piles’ (though of course this will have health and safety implications that will need to be taken into consideration). The most common type is in the form of a log pile. These are best placed in damp, shady areas and will have a particular impact on invertebrates and fungi. Habitat piles are good for the ‘tidy minded’ but it is worth remembering that dead wood of any sort will have tremendous benefits for wildlife.

Old piles of brick or stones are also good for wildlife, being of particular value to reptiles and amphibians, such as newts. Compost heaps are also valuable habitat piles, of particular importance for reptiles such as slow worms and grass snakes, as well as for demonstrating sustainability (see ‘Sustainability’ section).

STONE AND EARTH BANKS Another simple measure is the creation of a stone or earth bank. Such features make good habitats for solitary bees, reptiles, amphibians and a whole host of other plants and animals. They can also be very cheap to create, particularly if part of your site design is resulting in the production of stones or spoil, for instance from digging a new pond.

ANIMAL BOXES If you are not so keen on the idea of habitat piles, or even if you are, you may like to consider using animal boxes in suitable locations throughout your school grounds. There is an enormous variety to choose from today, catering for animals such as bats, owls and hedgehogs (see ‘Birds’, ‘Bats’, ‘Contacts’ and ‘Further Information’ sections), with varying degrees of success. You can also create nest boxes for invertebrates such as lacewings. See diagram overleaf:

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HOW TO MAKE A LACEWING HOTEL

1 Ask a responsible adult to cut the 2. Roll up a piece of corrugated bottom off a large plastic drinks bottle. cardboard 90cm (3ft) long & the height of the bottle.

3 Push the roll inside the bottle 4. Hang it up in a tree by tying some and secure it with a piece of wire string round the top of the bottle. through two holes pierced either Keep the lid on! side of the bottle.

WILDFLOWER BORDERS if you don’t have room to create a whole wildflower meadow (see ‘Meadow Creation’ section) you may like to create the same effect on a smaller scale, for instance within a border or raised bed. The photograph opposite is clearly still on quite a large scale, but it illustrates what a lush effect you can achieve without dedicating an enormous portion of your grounds to this.

Many wildflowers are specific to particular areas, climates or soil types so it will be important to consider these points before you select your species.

You could even consider trying to create different habitats using a variety of conditions in a number of different beds or containers.

HANGING BASKETS A similar effect can be achieved on an even smaller scale, so if your school has no garden area at all you might like to make use of hanging baskets. These can be used to grow a wide variety of plants, including wildflowers, herbs or even vegetables.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Planting Trees & Shrubs

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Even if you don’t have room to plant large numbers of trees you may find that planting a few trees can cheer up your school grounds. Planting a tree or shrub is a long-term investment, so always try to plant native species as these support a much better variety of wildlife. But wherever you decide to plant, remember how large trees can grow – so choose the right sort for your area (see ‘Woodland Creation’ section).

WHEN TO PLANT The best time to plant your tree or shrub is between November and March. This is the period when the trees are dormant, between the leaf-fall and bud-burst, and so can be moved without harming them. You should avoid planting in very cold or windy weather. Never plant in soil that is frozen or waterlogged.

PLANTING Always take special care before and during planting. Never lets roots dry out. Keep them moist in a plastic bag until the moment you plant. To plant your tree or shrub follow these basic steps:

1 Dig a hole large enough for the roots of the tree or shrub. Break up the soil in the bottom of the hole. A stake will normally be needed for trees over 1.5m high, for spindly plants or in very exposed places. Drive the stake into the ground until it is firm. It must be no higher than one third of the height of the stem.

2 Place the tree in the hole and spread out the roots. Make sure the trees are planted up to the soil mark on the stem.

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3 If available, mix a handful of bonemeal with topsoil and place this carefully around the roots. As you plant, gently shake the tree to ensure the soil is in contact with the roots.

4 Firm the soil around the tree and then gently pull it to check that it is secure. If a stake is needed, attach it to the tree at the top.

5 You can protect your tree by using a tree shelter or guard. This will give the young sapling a good start by protecting it from the wind and grazing animals. Tree shelters are especially useful for slow growing trees such as oak. There are many types of guards and shelters so take advice to make sure you get the best sort for your needs. You may find that tree guards attract vandalism in which case it would be better to leave your trees unprotected.

6 To keep moisture and prevent weeds from growing, put down a 5cm deep mulch of bark or wood chippings up to 50cm from the stem.

Remember – although it is tempting to plant larger ‘standard’ trees or shrubs, you will have the greatest success if you plant 60-90cm high ‘whips’. These will grow much faster and often overtake taller trees planted at the same time. They are also much cheaper to buy!

LONG-TERM CARE Success will depend on how much effort you put into the care of your trees in the first two years after planting. Follow these steps:

1 Water well immediately after planting to settle the soil around the roots, and then weekly during the first growing season if possible.

2 Regularly check that the soil around the tree is firm, that any stakes or ties are in good condition and that ties are not biting into the stem. Remove the stake once your tree can support itself, usually after two years.

3 Consider removing dead branches, suckers rising from the roots and weak shoots on the stem.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Wildlife Hedgerows

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Hedgerows support a wide range of wildlife and are very valuable both for the habitat they provide and as a ‘wild corridor’ linking different habitats. They can also be useful in providing boundaries and attractive natural screens to buildings. Sadly over 150,000 miles of hedgerow have been lost from Britain over the last 50 years, equivalent to a hedgerow extending 6 times around the earth, so planting new ones or making good old ones is clearly of major benefit to wildlife.

CHOOSING TREES AND SHRUBS The best hedges for wildlife are those with a good mix of different native trees and shrubs, especially those which provide flowers and berries for insects and birds. Hawthorn, blackthorn and hazel are good for making a thick hedge. But field maple, holly, wild privet and dog rose can be planted too. These will add variety to your hedge.

A typical mix of shrubs to plant to create an ‘old-type’ hedgerow is: 50% hawthorn, 25% blackthorn, 15% field maple, 2% holly, 2% wild privet, 2% guelder rose, 2% dog rose and 2% buckthorn. But beware – blackthorn can spread rapidly and will need careful management to keep it under control.

Try to make sure your hedgerow reflects the local landscape. Check your local hedges to see what grows naturally. Tall trees are a feature of many hedges. If you are planting a long hedge you can plant trees, such as oak or ash, at intervals.

Size and numbers of trees and shrubs to plant

The best way to create a thick hedge is to plant a double row of trees and shrubs at a spacing of 20-30cms. This means about 6 plants for every metre of your hedge. If you measure the length of your hedge you should be able to work out how many plants you will need.

You may be tempted to buy large trees and shrubs in order to make an instant effect. But they will be slow to grow. So you should buy much smaller, hedging plants or ‘whips’ which will survive better and grow more quickly.

If you think your hedge may be at risk from damage, you might want to consider putting up a fence on both sides of the hedgerow.

PLANTING YOUR HEDGEROW The best way to plant a hedge is as follows: 1 Mark out two lines with string, about 50cm apart, along the line of your new hedgerow. 2 Clear any grass and vegetation between the two lines of string. 3 Use 20cm lengths of cane to mark out the distances between the trees and shrubs creating a zig-zag pattern. 4 Plant the shrubs in groups of about five of the same type. ‘Notch planting’ is usually the easiest method. The best time to plant is between November and March.

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LOOKING AFTER YOUR HEDGEROW The first year During the first summer you should weed around the base of the shrubs. This will prevent competition from grasses and other plants. However, a mulch of chopped bark placed along the length of the hedgerow will prevent weeds from growing up in the first place. If there is a spell of dry weather don’t forget to water too. You may find in late summer that some trees and shrubs have died. These gaps should be replaced with new shrubs in the autumn or winter.

In the first spring you should cut shrubs down to 45-60cm above the ground. This hard pruning encourages the shrubs to bush out and will help to create a nice thick hedge.

Long-term care Once your hedgerow has reached a good height you can make it even better for wildlife by letting the grasses and wildflowers grow up. In urban areas consider planting climbers such as honeysuckle as these may not arrive on their own.

After several years, you can manage the hedgerow by trimming it into an ‘A’ shape. This will encourage bushy, leafy growth around the base which will provide cover for small mammals and nesting sites for birds.

Another way to look after your hedge is by ‘hedge-laying’. Training is required to master this difficult skill and there are different styles. If you are going to have a go yourself, make sure you learn the local method.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Sustainability

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With climate change now becoming recognised as a very real threat to people and to nature there has never been more need for us to minimise our impact on the world around us. And what better place to start teaching future generations about this need than in school.

Many schools have already started to take sustainability into account in their day to day runnings, for example through initiatives such as ‘Eco-schools’ (see ‘Further Information’). But, for those who haven’t, you may find the examples below provide a simple and inexpensive starting point both within your wildlife area and without.

RECYCLING BINS Much of what we use in our daily lives can be recycled. Indeed most residential areas of Somerset now have weekly kerbside collection of recyclable waste. Why not extend this good practice into your school by asking your local council if they can provide you with recycling bins, for instance for cans, paper, card or plastic bottles.

Photo: South Somerset District Council

COMPOST HEAPS Compost heaps are an excellent means of recycling organic waste that will otherwise end up in a landfill site. It should also provide you with plenty of compost to use in your school grounds (but remember that wildflowers prefer a nutrient poor-soil). You might prefer to opt for an actual compost bin within your school grounds. You may want to contact your local authority before you decide to create your own compost bin as many will provide them at a discounted price (see ‘Contacts’ section). If you do decide to make your own from scratch a good size compost bin is approximately 1 metre cubed. A simple way to make your own would be to wire together four timber pallets which you may be able to buy second-hand at a reasonable price from a builder’s merchant. If not, you could create the same effect from timber. Whatever you decide, remember that in order to function optimally you must make sure your compost bin is well ventilated and kept moist at all times. You should not need to line your compost bin, but it will need a lid. This can easily be created out of old carpet but if you do use this design you will need to make it waterproof, to prevent it rotting too quickly in the rain, for example by adding a layer of polythene above. Remember that it is not a good idea to put cooked food or any meat, fish or fat into your compost bin as this is likely to attract rats. Many other types of organic waste are fine, including fruit and vegetable peelings.

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WORMERIES You might even want to consider having a ‘wormery’ which will serve much the same purpose as a compost bin but it will provide you with liquid fertiliser. The liquid is usually drained off through a tap at the bottom of the bin, so the bin will need to be raised off the ground to allow for this drainage to occur easily. It is important to remember to drain off the excess liquid frequently as if too much builds up the worms may drown. It is also important to remember to secure the lid after adding waste as the worms often prove to be effective escape artists!

There are many designs of ‘wormery’ available but it is also possible to create you own, as shown in the picture below.

WATER BUTTS These are an excellent sustainability measure which can really make the most of the British climate to the benefit of your school grounds. Again, as with compost bins, it may be worth contacting your local council to see if they have water butts available, perhaps even at a discounted rate.

GREEN ROOFS This is another excellent sustainability measure for all sorts of reasons. A green roof can help to insulate your building thereby potentially reducing your heating costs and helping to reduce your energy consumption. It is also a great way of creating new habitat in an area that would otherwise be lost to wildlife by the development of a building. There are some good designs now available which can be very wildlife friendly.

Photo: London Wildlife Trust

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Paths & Steps

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The careful use of hard landscape features, such as paths and steps, can make a wildlife area look really cared for. This will help avoid the traditional view of the wildlife area as a something of a wilderness. There are many different types to choose from and a few are outlined below to give you an idea.

MOVEABLE PATHS – The easiest and cheapest way to create paths in your wildlife area is to simply mow them into your habitat. This looks really effective and natural, whilst also giving you the flexibility to move or change your paths whenever you wish.

PERMANENT PATHS – These are obviously less flexible than mown paths and take a lot more time, effort and resources to construct, as well as looking rather less at home in a wildlife area. You will most likely look to an outside contractor if you wish to undertake this type of work but if you are thinking of doing the work yourself, the following information should provide you with a rough guideline (for more detail on this topic see ‘Further Information’ section). Remember that when you carry out work yourself you will need to wear Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and always carry out a full risk assessment. The equipment used to create permanent footpaths can be dangerous if used inappropriately, so you will need to consider carefully whether you think this type of work is suitable for pupils to join in with.

Obviously the first step in creating any type of path is to identify the course that the path is to follow. If your site is on a slope it is important to remember that steep paths can erode quickly. You may instead wish to follow a more meandering line in order to reduce the gradient of the path or to consider installing steps (see ‘Further Information’ section). Next you will need to clear the area of all debris such as leaves and plants that might impede the path line. Once you have done this you can mark out the line. Do this as accurately as possible. A standard width is usually 1.2m.

Paths with a soft surface – This type of path could be made from a number of different materials such as woodchip or, as described here, hardcore. If you choose to use woodchip or any other alternative material the method described below for hardcore will have to be adapted slightly.

Remember that it is possible to use recycled material in the creation of a path as long as you are careful to make sure the material is safe to use. For instance you could consider using waste woochips from forestry work, secondary aggregates or certain types of quarry waste which are more sustainable than primary materials and should do just as good a job. It is best to use local materials as these will be more sustainable and should be suitable for your site. Be aware that if you import material that is not suitable for your site you may end up altering the local environment for instance through the leaching of minerals into the soil. This would be particularly undesirable where there are sensitive sites nearby.

Use appropriate tools (e.g. shovels, spades and picks) to excavate the path. A standard depth for footpaths of this type is 0.08m; a good rule of thumb is that the depth of the path should be at least 3x the diameter of the largest aggregate. Also excavate the line the edging boards are to follow, preferably to a depth that will mean that when the edging boards are in position they will remain flush with the path on completion. Remove the waste materials from this excavation and store for use at the end of this process. Add the edging boards around the edge of the path and secure using wooden pegs outside of the path. Next level and consolidate the sub-base to correct any falls and then add the liner to the path. It is essential that the path is completely covered by the liner as this will prevent weeds growing up through the path which would obviously increase maintenance times and costs. Lay the hardcore, or ‘hoggin’, evenly to the specified thickness and then level it with a rake before consolidating it with a roller. Repeat this process for the surface material. Usually the sub-base will be

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

SOMERSET larger aggregate than the top dressing; scalpings make a good sub-base. It is important that it is all ‘down to dust’ as it is the dust that beds it all down and stops it moving. An exception to this would be if you want a crunchy top coat, e.g. clean stone.

Once the surface is in position remove any excess liner from the edge of the path. Finally, use the excavated soil to fill any holes present behind the edging board, ensuring that this area is also level.

Paths with a hard surface – Paths may become eroded over time if used often. If you wish to prevent future erosion you may consider using concrete to make a more permanent path. This type of path is not as attractive as either of the types described above but it will certainly be the most hard-wearing. But remember – cement is a hazardous substance so make sure you wear the appropriate PPE. As part of your risk assessment for this type of path you will also need to conduct a COSHH (Control Of Substances Hazardous to Health) assessment. It is unlikely that this type of work will be suitable for pupils to join in with.

As above, excavate the path to the desired depth (again 0.08m is standard) and the line of the edging boards to a depth that will leave them flush with the path on completion. Remove the waste materials and fit the edging boards, or ‘shuttering’, as required. The path will need to be divided up into linear areas approximately 3m long, with an expansion joint added at either end of each section. This expansion joint – usually a piece of wood – will prevent cracking of the path surface upon completion and will also make it easier to work during construction.

Next assemble the cement mixer as close to the path and materials as possible. Once mixed, tip the concrete into a wheelbarrow and transport it to the path. Shovel it into the path and ‘chop’ it into the corners. Tap it down with a shovel and wooden float before ‘tamping’ (follow the direction of the path using a board that is long enough to cover the shuttering, lifting it up and down rapidly whilst moving down the path) and ‘screeding’ (move the same board swiftly backwards and forwards and gradually down the path). Repeat this process until the concrete is flat and even.

The surface can be finished in a number of different ways. For a smooth surface use a wooden float in circular movements, ensuring any low spots are filled and holes covered up. By moving the float in this way using light movements, the surface of the concrete will be smoothed out. An alternative finish can be achieved by brushing the surface when it is nearly set to expose the aggregate.

STEPS – If your site is too steep for a path you might like to consider putting in steps. This is tricky to do well (e.g. to make sure the height and depth of the treads provide steps that are comfortable to use) and, as with paths, you will most likely look to an outside contractor to do this type of work. However, for those of you who wish to have a go, the following should provide an outline.

Again, the first thing is to decide on the line of the steps and then clear all debris that impedes this line. Next mark out your line and then excavate the area to allow for the steps. A typical method would be to create the ‘risers’ from timber and the ‘treads’ from hogging (hardcore). Stake the risers into the ground on the inside of the steps so the stakes will not be visible upon completion and then nail them in place. Where necessary fit side supports. Finally infill the steps with hogging and compact it.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Fences

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Different types of fences may be appropriate in different circumstances, so you will need to think carefully about what the purpose of your fence is before you select the type you want. For instance, a post and rail fence would look nice around your wildlife area but it will allow pupils movement between areas and so would not usually be practical around a pond unless the design is adapted to include wire mesh.

Although there are many different types of fence available, only two will be looked at here. These are the two commonest types of fencing, ‘post and rail’ and ‘post and wire’, which are purely practical rather than decorative. With a little imagination, however, it may be possible to Photo: RSPB create much more inspiring fences, such as the one pictured opposite.

As with footpaths, it is more than likely that you would bring in outside contractors to undertake such work. However, for those of you who wish to have a go, the following should provide a rough outline (for more detail see ‘Further Information’ section). Remember to wear your Personal Protective Equipment and carry out a full risk assessment before conducting any work.

POST AND RAIL – This is the more attractive of the two types described here and is rather easier to make. However, as described above it would not be suitable for securely dividing areas as it allows movement through it.

Firstly mark out the line the fence is to follow. Next clear any overgrown vegetation back to ground level. A typical spacing between the posts is 1.8m but remember to check this against your rails before you begin. You should aim to have a post halfway along each rail as well as at either end. Mark out your spacing and then dig your postholes (usually around 0.6m deep). To minimise the disturbance to the area you may like to store the spoil on bags before inserting the post and filling in the hole. Once the post is in the correct position fill the hole, compacting the soil as you fill to ensure that the post is firm in the ground. Remember to keep checking that the post is upright with a spirit level as you do this – you will not be able to change it afterwards. Make sure the post is not left with a dip in the soil around it as this would lead to a build up in water, which would in turn cause the post to rot. On completion of this process you would expect each post to be 1.2m above the ground.

Securely attach the rails to the post using blunted nails hammered in at an angle in a ‘dove tail’ fashion as shown in the diagram opposite (figure 1). Blunted nails are used to avoid splitting the wood of the rails; however it is essential that the nails are not blunted on the top of the posts as this will create a hole Rail in which water will collect and cause rotting of the posts. Leave approximately ¼ inch of the nail visible above the surface of the rail until the correct positioning is confirmed. Once the position of all the Nails rails has been confirmed the remainder of each nail can be hammered in totally. The rails should be connected with the small end of one Post rail connected to the small end of the next rail and the large end connected to the large end as this will be more visually pleasing. The upper rail is usually placed 0.9m above the lower rail and the middle rail then added at the right height by eye. The joints between the rails should be alternated along the length of the fence as this not only enhances the appearance of the fence but also adds strength. Figure 1

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Although the photograph opposite does not illustrate the type of post and rail fence described here, the theory remains the same and so it would be easy to adapt the method to produce a fence such as this.

POST AND WIRE – Again, the first thing to do is to clear the line the fence is to follow and then to clear any overgrown vegetation from this line. You will need a ‘straining post’ in the corners of your fence (or anywhere there is a change of direction). The hole for this post should be dug (often around 0.9m) and, as these posts often Photo: RSPB have a pointed end, you will need to make an extra hole in the centre. Place the post in the hole and fill it in, using spoil and stones, always ensuring the post is vertical. Compact the soil as you go along to ensure the post is firm upon completion.

Next place a supporting strut approximately half way up the straining post and wedge it into a notch cut into the straining post. Add a nail to hold this in place at the top and create a ‘thrust plate’. Then place the thrust plate into the hole and secure it in place. (Figure 2).

Then stretch out the upper wire and line the posts along this wire at the appropriate distance (often 2.8m apart). Make a pilot hole and drive the posts into the ground (usually to a height of 1.3m). Then check the posts to make sure that each individual one is firm in the ground. Remember that at the far end of your fence you will need another straining post if the fence is to survive. (Figure 3).

Next lay out your main fence material (usually stock netting) adjacent to the fence line. Lift up the netting, hold it just off the ground and staple it to the straining post. Then strain the opposite end of the wire using a specialist piece of equipment called a ‘monkey strainer’ (you should be able to hire these from any good tool hire company), with one strainer at the top of the stock netting and another at the bottom. A second person will then need to pick up the stock netting and align it with the fence once the straining had commenced. The wire should then be pulled taught and nailed to the second straining post.

Finally, the stock netting should be nailed to each of the remaining posts in the following order: bottom (just off the ground), top and then finally middle. Once this process has been completed, it should then be repeated for each of the Figure 2 two layers of upper wire.

Figure 3

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Drystone Walls, Wildlife Trust

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DRY STONE WALLS – Dry stone walls are a particularly attractive and traditional way to define the boundary of your wildlife area. However, they can be expensive and difficult to construct, and can pose a problem from a health and safety point of view as they may often be seen as an extended climbing frame.

There are a number of specialist training courses available on this topic and, if you intend to create a dry stone wall yourself, you may find it helpful to attend such a course (see ‘Further Information’ section). The following provides a rough guideline to one of the techniques for creating dry stone walls.

There are obvious hazards involved in creating dry stone walls, so you will need to think carefully about whether it is appropriate for any pupils to help with this work. Don’t forget to wear your PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), such as steel toe capped boots, and to carry out a risk assessment. Try to obtain your materials from a sustainable local source and if possible try to use recycled materials.

Dry stone walls are most stable if they gradually reduce in width as the height of the wall increases (often with a decrease of 1” in 12”). To do this, you may find it helpful to use a pair of A-frames as a guide. These can be simply constructed as shown in the diagram opposite and then placed at either end of your wall. They should be linked with string at the appropriate height; the string will indicate the line your wall should follow for any given height. (Figure 1). Figure 1 Next mark out the line your wall is to follow and clear it of any overgrown vegetation. Dig your foundations to an appropriate depth and width for the biggest, flattest stones to be used as foundation stones. Make sure they are lying flat and in the best position on the ground. Leave an extra gap either side of the foundation stones to allow for drainage away from the base of the wall. Where there are gaps between the footings, add smaller pieces as ‘fillings’ to provide extra stability.

Build up the wall gradually and check the wall for stability through every stage of development. Take care to ensure the best stone is always chosen for each space, as it is essential to use a stone of the appropriate size and shape at all times. Place each stone safely and securely into the wall and as the height of the wall increases, gradually reduce the width of the wall as guided by the A-frame.

At appropriate heights, add through stones to the wall. These will tie the two sides of the wall together and provide essential stability to the completed wall, as well as preventing premature degradation. Upon completion of each layer filling stones should be inserted into the centre of the wall; these will be of various sizes depending upon the size of the gap in question. To finish tie the top of the wall together with ‘coping stones’.

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SEATS – Seating can range from a simple log to a carved bench (as shown in the photo below). Whatever you decide to choose there are some simple tips to remember:

1 Place it where people will want to sit – at a fine view, a pleasant spot or near to the top of a steep climb.

2 Make it easy to get to, but not so prominent that it spoils a view.

3 If it is going to be heavily used, put some fine stones around the seat to stop it waterlogging.

4 An old tree stump or branch will look natural and can last a long time. But a simple, comfortable and cheap bench can be made by sinking two stumps into the ground for half their length (80cm is a typical length, with 40cm below the ground and 40cm above the surface). Then securely nail on a seat of treated timber (40cm x 150cm is a good size) but remember to make sure it is as smooth as possible to avoid splinters.

SIGNS – Signs can help to let people know about your wildlife area as well as giving them some examples of what they might see and also guiding them round. Signs work best if they are colourful with large text and pictures. Your pupils may enjoy working on this area by designing and creating signs and labels. With main signs, think about where people get into your wildlife area – you may need several. Put them in an obvious but unobtrusive place. Remember you may even need planning permission so it might be useful to talk to your local authority first.

You may find it helpful to label some of the key features of your wildlife area or to produce a simple leaflet to give to people to tell them about things as they go. You may also want to include a map to help guide people around. Your pupils may also enjoy creating a nature trail with signs at key places to guide people along the trail and let them know what they are seeing.

The pictures below show two very different but equally effective ways of approaching the design of signs on nature reserves. The first sign was produced by the Somerset Wildlife Trust and the second by the RSPB:

If vandalism is a problem at your school the sign should either be robust so it is hard to vandalise or cheap so it is easy to replace. If you decide to label key features keep them simple and unobtrusive and remember not to label everything.

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Further Information

SOMERSET

SCHOOL GROUNDS • Learning Through Landscapes: (01962) 845811; www.ltl.org.uk; Note: a publications list is available from LTL on request. This has not been included within the pack at this stage as it is in the process of being updated

• Growing Schools Garden; Teachers Resource Pack: www.teachernet.gov.uk/growingschools; growing. [email protected]

HABITAT CREATION AND MANAGEMENT • ‘The Pond Book – a guide to the management and creation of ponds’: ISBN 0 9537971 0 4, available from the Ponds Conservation Trust, www.pondstrust.org.uk

• ‘Good Wildlife Ponds’; ‘Planting-up Ponds’; ‘Problem Pond Plants – managing algae, duckweed and other floating plants’: also available from www.pondstrust.org.uk

• ‘Guidance on the control of invasive weeds in or near fresh water’: available from the Environment Agency; www.environment-agency.gov.uk; 0845 9333111

• ‘Pond Heaven – how to create your own wildlife pond’: available from Froglife on (01986) 873733.

• ‘Garden ponds and boggy areas’; ‘Managing ponds for wildlife’; ‘Wildlife Friendly Gardening – a general guide’; ‘Plants for wildlife-friendly gardens’; ‘Wildflower meadows’; ‘Composting and peat-free gardening’: available from English Nature. www.english-nature.org.uk

• ‘Managing Wildflower Grasslands’: available from Worcestershire Nature Conservation Trust Ltd on (01905) 754919

• Wildlife Gardening with Jenny Steel: a number of publications are available to order from the website: www.wildlife-gardening.co.uk

• Looking after Wildlife Sites – leaflets from the Wildlife Trusts. This range includes such leaflets as: ‘Wildflower Grasslands’, ‘Hedges, Field Margins and Trees’, ‘Broad-leaved Woodlands’

• ‘Managing Habitats for Conservation’ by W.J. Sutherland and D.A. Hill. ISBN 0 521 44260 5 (hardback), ISBN 0 521 44776 3 (paperback)

• ‘Species guide to tree and shrub planting’ available from South Somerset District Council

SPECIES

• ‘Minibeasts’; ‘Dragonflies and damselflies in your garden’; ‘Enjoying moths and butterflies in your garden’; ‘Amphibians in your garden’; ‘Reptiles in your garden’; ‘Focus on bats’: available from English Nature. www.english-nature.org.uk

• ‘The Wildflower Key’ by Francis Rose (ISBN 0723224196)

• Collins Field Guides: covering a wide range of topics, including ‘Bird Songs & Calls’, ‘Bird Guide’ & ‘Wildflowers’

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust

SOMERSET

• FSC Guides: identification charts covering a wide range of topics. www.field-studies-council.org

• ‘Nest Boxes in Schools Project’: information pack available from the Hawk and Owl Trust, (01275) 849287, www.nestbox.net, www.hawkandowl.org

• The Natural History Museum: main website: www.nhm.ac.uk; Postcode Plants Database: http://www.nhm.ac.uk/science/projects/fff/

SIMPLE MEASURES • ‘Composting and peat-free gardening’: available from English Nature. www.english-nature.org.uk

SITE FACILITIES • BTCV Handbooks: available from www.btcv.org; 01302 572244 Woodlands - ISBN 0946752338 Hedging - ISBN 0946752176 Tree Planting and Aftercare - ISBN 0946752257 Footpaths - ISBN 0946752311 Fencing - ISBN 094675229X Dry Stone Walling - ISBN 0946752192 Toolcare - ISBN 0946752249

• RHS Practical Guides from Dorling Kindersley (a number of publications are available in this range, including: ‘Paths & Paving’ ISBN 0 7513 06908 & ‘Walls & Fences’ ISBN 0 7513 0753 X)

• Outdoor classroom design: a number of schools throughout the UK have now designed and created their own outdoor classrooms. Much of this information is available on the internet. Try typing ‘outdoor classroom design’ or similar wording into a good search engine to find links to useful websites.

OTHER • Eco-Schools: information available on their website - www.eco-schools.org.uk

• RSPB Teaching Resources: available from www.rspb.org.uk

• Environment Agency Teaching Resources: publications, posters and CD-ROMs designed for children on a range of subjects, including Schools’ Activity Packs on waste and climate change (designed for key stages 2 and 3), educational fact sheets entitled Ripples (Key Stage 1) and Stepping Stones (Key Stages 2 and 3). Available to order or download from: http://www.environment- agency.gov.uk/publications

• Flora Locale Knowledge Zone: contains lots of information and links about sourcing and using wild plants for biodiversity projects. The online library takes you to lots of information held on the website, including downloadable PDF documents and to links to other websites. Available at http://www.floralocale.org/content.asp?did=23800

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Contacts & Suppliers

SOMERSET

Somerset Wildlife Trust – for advice on activities to run in your school grounds or for details of local Wildlife Watch Groups, the Gardening for Wildlife Group, other Specialist Groups (such as the Bat Group or the Reptile & Amphibian Group for Somerset) or Area Groups please call the Wellington office number:

Somerset Wildlife Trust Environment Agency Tonedale Mill Tel: (08708) 506506 Tonedale E-mail: [email protected] Wellington Website: www.environment-agency.gov.uk TA21 0AW Tel: (01823) 652400 Pond Conservation Trust Website: www.somersetwildlife.org BMS Oxford Brookes University Fyne Court Shop (sells nest boxes etc) Gipsy Lane Broomfield Oxford Bridgwater OX3 7AF. TA5 2EQ Tel: (01865) 483249. Tel: (01823) 452149 E-mail: [email protected]

Flora Locale Learning Through Landscapes Denford Manor Third Floor Hungerford Southside Offices Berkshire The Law Courts RG7 0UN Winchester Tel: 01488 680 457 SO23 9DL Website: www.floralocale.org Tel: (01962) 845811 Website: www.ltl.org.uk Carymoor Environmental Centre Helen Boyer Somerset County Council Carymoor Environmental Centre Nursery Michael Wetherell Dimmer Lane Grounds & Landscape Manager Castle Cary County Hall Somerset Taunton BA7 7NR TA1 4DY Tel: 01963 350143 Tel: (01823) 356271 E-mail: [email protected] Main number: (01823) 355455 Emorsgate Seeds Somerset Environmental Records Centre Limes Farm Tonedale Mill Tilney All Saints Tonedale King’s Lynn Wellington Norfolk TA21 0AW PE34 4RT Tel: (01823) 652400 Tel: (01553) 829028 Website: www.somerc.com Website: www.wildseeds.co.uk

Natural England (Enquiry Service) Tel: (01733) 455100 / 1 / 2 Fax: (01733) 455103 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.naturalengland.org.uk

Protecting Wildlife for the Future Somerset Wildlife Trust Contacts & Suppliers

SOMERSET

Ernest Charles Exmoor National Park Authority Ernest Charles Dave Gurnett FREEPOST Exmoor House Copplestone Dulverton Crediton TA22 9HL Devon Tel: (01398)323665 EX17 2YZ Mobile: (07970) 099117 Tel: 0800 7316 770 E-mail: [email protected] Blackdown Hills AONB Website: www.ernest-charles.com St Ivel House Hemyock Hawk and Owl Trust Cullompton Chris Sperring MBE EX15 3SJ 32 Hollis Avenue Tel: (01823) 680681 Portishead North Somerset Mendip Hills AONB – will advise and assist BS20 6TQ schools seeking to find out about the AONB or Tel: (01275) 849287 undertaking conservation projects in their locality: Website: www.hawkandowl.org Charterhouse Centre Charterhouse RSPB Nr Blagdon The Lodge Bristol Sandy BS40 7XR Bedfordshire Tel: (01761) 462338 SG19 2DL Tel: (01767) 680551 Quantock Hills AONB Service Website: www.rspb.org.uk Quantock Office Castle Street South Somerset District Council - For telephone Nether Stowey advice on wildlife aspects and info on species and Bridgwater habitats contact Deborah Elton at SSDC. Contact TA5 1LN details for tree wardens are available from Tel: (01278) 732845 Jen Nixon (SSDC) or via your Parish Clerk. E-mail: [email protected] Brympton Way Website: www.quantockhills.com Yeovil BA20 2HT Tel: (01935) 462462

Taunton Deane Borough Council The Deane House Belvedere Road Taunton TA1 1HE Tel: (01823) 356356

West Somerset Council 20 Fore Street Williton Taunton TA4 4QA Tel: (01643) 703704

Protecting Wildlife for the Future