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Representations of Gender from Prehistory to the Present Studies in Gender and Material Culture

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Representations of Gender from Prehistory to the Present Studies in Gender and Material Culture Representations of Gender from Prehistory to the Present Studies in Gender and Material Culture This series, edited by Moira Donald and Linda Hurcombe of the University of Exeter, is a pioneering project consisting of three books which focus on different aspects of the relationship between gender and material culture from prehistory to the present. Incorporating the work of archaeologists, classicists, art historians and social historians, these volumes form a unique interdisciplinary collection written by leading scholars in the field from many countries. This project stems from an exciting interdisciplinary conference on Gender and Material Culture which was the first of a series of regular gender and history conferences organized by the University of Exeter. GENDER AND MATERIAL CULTURE IN ARCHAEOLOGICAL PERSPECTIVE GENDER AND MATERIAL CULTURE IN HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE REPRESENTATIONS OF GENDER FROM PREHISTORY TO THE PRESENT Studies in Gender and Material Culture Standing Order ISBN 978-0-333-64322-8 (three volume set) (outside North America only) You can receive future titles in this series as they are published by placing a standing order. Please contactJour bookseller or, in case of difficulty, write to us at the address below with your name an address, the title of the series and the ISBN quoted above. Customer Services Department, Macmillan Distribution Ltd, Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RGZl 6XS, England Representations of Gender from Prehistory to the Present Edited by Moira Donald Senior Lecturer in History University of Exeter and Linda Hurcombe Lecturer in Prehistory University of Exeter First published in Great Britain 2000 by MACMILLAN PRESS LTD Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 6XS and London Companies and representatives throughout the world A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-333-64331-0 First published in the United States of America 2000 by ST. MARTIN'S PRESS, INC., Scholarly and Reference Division, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010 ISBN 978-1-349-62333-4 ISBN 978-1-349-62331-0 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-1-349-62331-0 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Representations of gender from prehistory to the present I edited by Moira Donald and Linda Hurcombe. p. em. - (Studies in gender and material culture) Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Women-History. 2. Sex role-History. 3. Feminist archaeology. 4. Material culture. I. Donald, Moira. II. Hurcombe, Linda. Ill. Series. HQ1121.R45 1999 305.3'09-dc21 99--33851 CIP Selection and editorial matter © Moira Donald and Linda Hurcombe 2000 Introduction and Chapters 1-14 © Macmillan Press Ltd 2000 Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 2000 978-0-312-22397-7 All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication may be made without written permission. No paragraph of this publication may be reproduced, copied or transmitted save with written permission or in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, or under the terms of any licence permitting limited copying issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P OLP. Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages. The authors have asserted their rights to be identified as the authors of this work in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. This book is printed on paper suitable for recycling and made from fully managed and sustained forest sources. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01 00 Contents List of Figures and Tables vii Preface xi Acknowledgements xiii Notes on the Contributors xiv Introduction by Barbara Bender xix Part I Engendering Images an Archaeology 1 Archaeological Ms.conceptions: Contemplating Gender and the Greek Neolithic 3 Lauren E. Talalay 2 Ungendering Archaeology: Concepts of Sex and Gender in Figurine Studies in Prehistory 17 Naomi Hamilton 3 Gender Constructs in the Material Culture of Seventh-century Anasazi Farmers in North-eastern Arizona 31 Kelley Hays-Gilpin 4 Shaman Images in San Rock Art: A Question of Gender 45 Judith Stevenson Part II Representing Gender in the Early Mediterranean World S Engendering Ambiguity in Minoan Crete: It's a Drag to be a King 69 Louise A. Hitchcock 6 Gender and Burial in Early Colonial Sicily: The Case of Morgantina 87 Clare L. Lyons 7 Satyrs and Hetaerae: Looking for Gender on Greek Vases 104 Matthew Fox 8 Food Preparation in Ancient Greece: Representations of Gender Roles in the Literary Evidence 118 John Wilkins v vi Contents Part III Gendered Symbolism in History 9 Glamour and Glory: The Symbolic Imagery of Women on Paper Money 137 Virginia Hewitt 10 The Gendering of Artistic Labour in Mid-Victorian Britain 153 Tim Barringer 11 Posters and Images of Women in the Great War 168 Helen Sims Part IV Dress and Gender Identity in Modern History 12 The Case of the Hidden Consumer: Men, Fashion and Luxury, 1870-1914 183 Christopher Breward 13 Dressed to Kill: Clothes, Cultural Meaning and First World War Munitions Workers 198 Angela Woollacott 14 Women under Austerity: Fashion in Britain during the 1940s 218 Ina Zweiniger-Bargielowska Index 238 List of Figures and Tables Figures 1.1 Male and female figurines 6 2.1 Cypriot 'plank idol' and figurine 19 2.2 Cretan figurines with 'leg muscles and waist lines' 20 2.3 Greek Neolithic Sesklo figure 24 2.4 Greek Neolithic dual-sexed Sesklo figure 24 2.5 Cypriot phallic and vulvic Neolithic figure from Sotira-Arkolies 25 2.6 Cypriot 'plank' idol and figure 26 2.7 Cypriot figures 27 3.1 Broken Flute Cave, northeastern Arizona, showing location and density of rock art and selected rock art motifs 32 3.2 Designs on painted pottery bowl and jar interiors; coiled baskets with black and red designs 34 3.3 Decorated textiles 35 3.4 Fired clay figurines 41 4.1 Distribution map of San groups 46 4.2 Complex panel, Kwazulu/Natal, South Africa 48 4.3 Kwazulu/Natal figures 49 4.4 Karossed figures from the Western Cape, South Africa so 4.5 Female shamans bleeding from the nose, the Eastern Cape, South Africa 53 4.6 Female shaman with rhebok head, the Eastern Cape, South Africa 55 4.7 Rain shamans, Lesotho 56 4.8 Therianthropic figures, Kwazulu/Natal, South Africa 57 4.9 Elephant therianthrope, Orange Free State, South Africa 58 4.10 Female therianthrope, Kwazulu/Natal, South Africa 59 4.11 Female lion, the Western Cape, South Africa 59 4.12 Gynandromorphic eland, PVW, South Africa 60 4.13 Gynandromorphic therianthropes. Kwazulu/ Natal South Africa 61 5.1 'Typical' Minoan figures 70 5.2 The 'Priest-King', as restored by Evans 72 5.3 The 'Priest-King', as restored by Niemeir 73 5.4 The 'Priest-King' as restored by Coulomb 73 5.5 Minoan figures 74 5.6 The Stele of Naram Sin 75 5.7 The 'Taureador' or Bull-Leaping Fresco 77 vii viii List ofFigures and Tables 5.8 The Akkadian singer, Ur-Nanshe 79 5.9 Hatshepsut 80 5.10 Plaster head of a 'sphinx' from Mycenae 81 5.11 Ivory bull-leaper from Knossos 82 5.12 Palaikastro 'Zeus' 82 6.1 Personal ornaments 91 6.2 Corinthian pottery from Tomb 9 93 6.3 Corinthian pottery 97 6.4 Local askoi from Tomb 16 98 6.5 Local hydria from Tomb 9 99 7.1 Cup 105 7.2 Vase 106 7.3 Wine cooler 108 7.4 Wine cooler 112 9.1 Symbolic opposites man and woman on a 20-mark note, Germany, 1915 139 9.2 The personification of Law with a majestic lion on 10-million reis note, Brazil 1907 140 9.3 Britannia with helmet, spear and shield beside Justice with sword and scales on 5-dollar note of the Farmers' Joint Stock Bank, Canada, 1849 142 9.4 Female allegory with myriad emblems of trade and agriculture on a 10-pound note of the Bank of New South Wales, Australia, ca. 1850-60. 142 9.5 Burgeoning life and plenty symbolized by a woman and child with grapes on a 100-franc note, Martinique, 1942 143 9.6 Symbolic figures associating woman with agriculture and man with industry against a background of factory chimneys on a 100-korun note, Czechoslovakia, 1961 144 9.7 Domestic harmony on a Swiss 500-franc note, 1923 144 9.8 Cheerfully laden woman harvesting roses for perfume on a 50-leva note, Bulgaria, 1951 145 9.9 Women working in paddy-fields on a 100-dong note, Vietnam, 1985 146 9.10 Woman in national costume with traditional symbols of the harvest on a 10-krooni note, Estonia, 1940 147 9.11 Allegory of authority with indigenous woman on a 50-angolares note, Angola, 1947 148 9.12 Portrait of Maria Montessori (1870-1952), who developed the Montessori method education, on 1000-lire note, Italy, 1990 150 10.1 George Elgar Hicks, The Sinews of Old England 156 10.2 Ford Madox Brown, Work 157 10.3 James Sharples, The Forge 162 List of Figures and Tables ix 10.4 R.A. Grigson, photograph of James Sharples 164 11.1 VAD poster 171 11.2 Munitions workers 172 11.3 WRNS poster 174 11.4 'Greatest Mother' poster 177 12.1 'The Lounge' suit 192 13.1 Stanhope Forbes, The Munition Girls 201 13.2 'Recognition at Burlington House' 206 14.1 1930s' elegance summer fashions, June 1939 222 14.2 Wartime styles typical examples of utility clothing, 1942-3 224 14.3 Dior's New Look 228 14.4 Achieving the New Look, Woman, 17 April 1948 231 Tables 2.1 Ucko's Cretan figurines- not recognizing sexual triangles 21 2.2 Ucko's Cretan figurines- recognizing sexual triangles 21 Preface This volume is one of a series originating from an international conference held at the University of Exeter in July 1994.
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