In the Club Look Familiar? European Club Kids Are Mining the Eighties Counterculture for Their Inventive, Often Over-The-Top Wares
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Students’The Ideal EmployersInside: Pg. 12 HALSTON’S NEW MAN/3 BAG FRENZY IN DOWNPOUR/3 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 19, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear In the Club Look familiar? European club kids are mining the Eighties counterculture for their inventive, often over-the-top wares. Naturally, they’re favoring merch from under-the-radar designers, like this bold cotton dress from David David, worn with Wolford fi shnets and House of Holland for Kickers boots. For more on the latest scene, see pages 6 and 7. Macy’s Stock Up 7.6% Amid Questions About Debt Market Financing By Vicki M. Young rivate equity firm Kohlberg Kravis ; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER ; STYLED BY P& Roberts wants to close on a deal for Macy’s Inc., but turmoil in the debt financing markets might get in the way. KKR is looking to acquire the retailer at $52 a share. Disclosure of the offer in WWD triggered a 7.6 percent surge in Macy’s stock price on Wednesday. The volume of trading also jumped. Sources said KKR met with Macy’s Inc.’s chief executive officer, Terry Lundgren, about a month and a half ago regarding its interest. KKR is said to be looking to buy the department store chain for $24 billion. See Macy’s, Page17 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: ANNA RACHFORD/ELITE PARIS; HAIR BY LESLIE THIBAUD AND MAKEUP BY CAROLE HANNAH, BOTH AT AIRPORT CAROLE HANNAH, BOTH AT AND MAKEUP BY LESLIE THIBAUD HAIR BY PARIS; MODEL: ANNA RACHFORD/ELITE KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Club fever is back, and this time around, it has made its way into A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 Europe’s effervescent after-dark scene, with a variety of infl uences. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Private equity fi rm Kohlberg Kravis & Roberts wants to close on a deal for LABEL CONSCIOUSNESS 1 Macy’s Inc., but turmoil in the debt fi nancing markets might get in the way. Care Labels Trump Designer Labels DENIM: Denim fi rms showing at Bread & Butter Barcelona embraced 8 brighter colors, lighter fabrics and more moderate embellishments. Being label-conscious used to mean that it even trumps brand name, reports the Monitor. BEAT: DJ Networks Inc., the parent of drjays.com, is upgrading its sacrificing all for the designer name of the moment. While 50 percent of female respondents cited 10 consumer base and products on the new djpremium.com. But, perhaps because they are busier today than laundering instructions as information important Richemont saw a 9 percent sales rise to $1.75 billion in the recent ever before, modern women are approaching to her purchase decision; only 25 percent cited the 16 quarter, led by watches and growth at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. designer or manufacturer’s name. everything they do with an eye toward practicality, Jigsaw, the British brand known for giving classic English styles a twist, and that includes shopping and Today’s technologically- has gotten a fresh jolt of style and a new creative director, Louise Trotter. caring for all of the garments in advanced machines can lend 16 their households. consumers a hand and take President Bush established an import safety task force to recommend It may seem “old school” to some of the guesswork out of the 18 steps to ensure the safety of imported food and consumer products. suppose that women are the laundering process, cites Teman. Women’s apparel prices fell 1.4 percent in June and 2.4 percent from a primary launderers of the family; “Washing machines are getting 18 year ago, according to the Consumer Price Index released Wednesday. it is the 21st century, after all. more sophisticated and have But, women themselves state that different cycles for different fabrics, EYE it is a time-honored tradition. In so we can take some chances here On a steamy night in SoHo, Phillip Lim lured his loyal fan base down to fact, nearly 75 percent of female and there.” 4 his new Mercer Street store for a Veuve Clicquot Champagne reception. respondents told the Cotton Yet, problems do occur in the Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ laundering process and these Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................18-19 that their mothers taught them include torn seams, fading and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. how to do laundry. shrinking. In just a few short [email protected], using the individual’s name. Whether it’s an extension years, the incidence of fading appears to be waning. In 2003, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT of old-fashioned home ec, or ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. 68 percent of consumers told VOLUME 194, NO. 13. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one new-century economics tinged “I challenge you to find any with environmental concerns, a the Monitor that they bought additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three woman who doesn’t value the additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance garment’s care label is the starting a garment that faded. In 2006, concept of easy care…” Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by flag for practicality. Those little nearly the same percentage cited Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive — Linda Teman, hieroglyphs on the small tag the reverse; 70 percent said that Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Sierra Trading Post Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail speak more loudly than designer they had not purchased an item Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return influence. According to the that faded over time. undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Monitor, three out of four female respondents said With regard to fading, once again, women 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE that they consult the garment care label and most demonstrate their practicality; certain garments INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit do so simply because they need to know what they are going to fade and they accept that. Female www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production are getting themselves into before purchasing. respondents told the Monitor that they expected correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, “Women check the laundering instructions for black cotton pants to fade after fourteen washes on please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list both economics and convenience,” explains Melissa average. available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. Bastos, manager of market research at Cotton Such acceptance may explain why fading appears If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Incorporated. “They are factoring in the maintenance to be a decreasing concern; in 2006, 56 percent of 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, in terms of cost and how much respondents said that fading BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED time and effort the garment What Influences Women’s did not bother them, up from MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR may require.” Purchasing Decisions? 38 percent saying the same in CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Bastos also points out 60% 2003. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. that the care label may be 51.70% That particularly holds the tipping point for today’s 50% true with jeans. “Respondents bargain shopper. “If she is have told us repeatedly that considering a sale item that 40% they don’t care if their denim might require dry cleaning or fades,” Bastos shares. “They 30% 27.50% In Brief some other time-consuming actually expect it.” maintenance, that extra time 20% However, if given a choice, ● GERSTEIN JOINS SEARS: Richard Gerstein, most re- and money could negate some women would opt to cently global chief marketing offi cer of Alberto-Culver Co. 10% the savings, and thus, the preserve their darker denim and senior vice president of its U.S. business, has joined purchase.” 0% hues with a little help from Sears Holdings Corp.