The Godfather of Sole

FASHION THE GODFATHER OF SOLE For Christian Louboutin’s passionate customers– Angelina Jolie, Lady Gaga, the Olsen twins, and Oprah, among others–his red-soled confections are far more than footwear, and their creator far more than a designer. For the shoe god himself, who recently completed a line of Barbies, the line between fashion and fetish is nearly invisible BY VANESSA GRIGORIADIS eep in the heart of conspic- dot dresses and chunky David Yurman ban- !oors, and the ambient trill of women com- uous consumption, in a gles, at South Coast Plaza to fête Louboutin, plimenting other women on their shoes. A 2.6-million-square-foot lux- the warm, quizzical 46-year-old king of the boutique party? Didn’t we replace these ury mall in Orange Coun- heel—the “new Manolo Blahnik,” according long ago with Art Basel and the Venice ty, there is, on a warm eve- to Visionaire co-founder Cecilia Dean—or, Biennale—places where similar fabulously ning last spring, a small as one Mercedes-coupe-driving, abundantly shod people stand around and look at art private party for Christian Louboutin. This is spray-tanned Louboutin devotee puts it, cut- they don’t completely understand? Maybe Da time in which every woman must whisper ting through the air with her French-manicured this is full circle, because on this night—just about her purchases and feel like Cinderella’s nails, “our shoe god!” one of a staggering number of nights that wicked stepsister for contemplating so gauche There’s something so 1999, so Sex and parties like this are thrown around the globe a desire as a thousand-dollar pair of leopard- the City about this scene, with the copious in Louboutin’s honor—we are celebrating a print booties. Every woman, that is, except champagne, the servers passing mini cup- new shoe, which looks )&7"--*&3 $ the several dozen extremely real housewives cakes on lollipop sticks, the clickety-clack of like a cupcake with lit- of the O.C. who are gathering, in airy polka- astonishingly high heels on spotless marble tle bits of frosting. But 1"4$"- )&3&µ4 -00,*/("5 4)0& ,*% $ISJTUJBO -PVCPVUJOLOPXT UIFTFDSFUTPGB XPNBOµTTPMF 124 7"/*5:'"*3 XXXWBOJUZGBJSDPN . " : FASHION it is much, much more expensive. The Ma- declared bankruptcy to buy me his shoes.” been to make money,” he says. “And as far rie Antoinette, as it’s called, with teeny-tiny Her mom shrugs. “It’s no biggie,” she ex- as understanding #nancial issues, it is in embroidery throughout by Jean-François plains. “Bankruptcy just sits on your credit one ear and out the other in a very pathetic Lesage and a decorative ankle strap with report for a few years.” fashion, really.” He giggles. “I was at din- a painstakingly made-up porcelain face For a micro-second, Louboutin "icks his ner in London after the #nancial crisis hit, of the sovereign herself, costs $6,295. “I eyes to the ceiling and rolls them around. and everyone was talking about the credit was drinking a lot of wine at lunch with “It’s just shoes, you know,” he whispers, with crunch,” he tells me. “I said, ‘What’s “cred- Jean,” says Louboutin mischievously, “and a giggle. it crunch”? Is that a new gym?’ ” we thought we should do a series of shoes But it is, and it isn’t. Unlike most luxury brands, Loubou- named after di!erent queens: Drag queen? tin’s company remains independent and Drama queen?” The Anti-swag Mind Trick owner-operated. He says he doesn’t believe The women teeter toward the shoe, which f all the ways that one can identify in advertising or marketing, though he did is presented inside an enormous, faux-jewel- a Louboutin shoe—the slick Brian trademark the red sole in the U.S., in 2008, encrusted egg, as though it had sprung forth O De Palma heels, the wry humor, the and in the U.K., in 2009. Don’t mess with from a very chic chicken. hyper-femininity, the perilous prices—the the soles: Albert Elbaz, designer of Lanvin “These shoes make my heart sing a little easiest is by glimpsing his ingenious trade- and a close friend, found this out the hard bit,” says a brunette, clicking together her mark: the red sole. It turns out that the "ash way when he asked Louboutin to produce beige pumps. of red on the undercarriage of a woman’s a line for one of his early collections. “At the “It’s like … angels,” says a blonde in men- shoe is very sexy: “an invitation, a green time, I thought the red sole was too strong acingly high purple stilettos, studded with light,” as Louboutin puts it. It’s also a con- for my collection,” says Elbaz. “So I painted diamantés. venient way to identify the haves and have- them black—a great mistake! He almost “I’m going to buy them, but I’ll never nots. Remarkably, the designer says, his busi- killed me.” Louboutin also claims never to wear them,” says another, in turquoise heels ness grew by double digits during the retail have “pushed” celebrities into his shoes on with a poof of feathers cascading down the depression last year, and today he sells the red carpet. (Some celebrities receive a back. “I’ll keep them on my mantel. I don’t more than 340,000 pairs of shoes annually, discount at his stores, but he rarely gives want to hurt them.” with prices ranging from $495 to an amount shoes away.) “Whether you’re talking about Louboutin listens patiently as his cli- that he refuses to reveal. (Custom- made a celebrity or any female, the most impor- ents—“friends!”—coo and caw, his arms shoes, like one with a sole made en tirely of tant aspect of women is desire,” he says, his folded over a spotless white linen jacket, rubies, can rise into the high #ve #gures.) lips curling into a smile. “The woman needs “WHAT’S A ‘CREDIT CRUNCH’?”ASKED LOUBOUTIN. “IS THAT A NEW GYM?” his wide brow unwrinkled, a Cheshire-cat Louboutin hatched the idea to redden to think: When can I have it? Ohhhh, I want grin playing over his lips. This isn’t how it the sole during his first collection, after it so badly, I can’t wait. If you take that usually works in fashion. It does not matter watching his assistant paint her nails with away from a woman, you take away a lot.” how many Marc Jacobs handbags a woman red Chanel polish. It was a decision nearly buys—Marc Jacobs is not gabbing with you without precedent. “Many Han Chinese his anti-swag mind trick has worked at a party. Karl Lagerfeld is not having din- women decorated the soles of the shoes incredibly well, and it’s nearly im- ner with you. Stella McCartney does not they hoped to be buried in with Buddhist T possible to name a high-wattage star want your company at a mani-pedi. But symbols so that they would make a good who hasn’t strutted around in Louboutin’s Louboutin is a special kind of designer. Per- impression in the afterlife,” says Elizabeth shoes. Angelina Jolie hardly ever walks a haps friend Mary-Kate Olsen says it best: Semmelhack, senior curator of the Bata red carpet without them. Naomi Campbell “When I was on the set of Full House, my Shoe Museum, in Toronto. Louboutin’s showed up to her court-ordered communi- favorite story was the Grimms’ fairy tale women are, however, much more con- ty service in his black leather stiletto boots. about a poor shoemaker who was visited cerned with this life. “Half of my women Tina Turner is a convert, along with Toni by elves that made his shoes in the middle want a shoe to make them look a little Morrison (“I cry at her books,” Louboutin of the night.” She laughs. “And when you tarty, and the other half are big tarts who says), Patti LaBelle (“Girl, I once knew a meet Christian, you realize a man like that want a shoe that looks classy,” he says. “I lady who painted her own soles red—she really exists. He is the shoemaker out of the think that in both cases the shoe completes was so pitiful,” she says), and Oprah, who fairy tale.” the woman, gives them the element they received 21 pairs of designer shoes, mostly It’s not all so G-rated: Louboutin’s acces- don’t have in themselves.” Louboutin’s, as a thank-you gift from Jessi- sibility is both part of his business plan and Louboutin has manufactured shoes un- ca Seinfeld after she appeared on her show part of a deep, fervently held desire to insert der his name since 1992, when he opened in 2007. Lady Gaga wears her nude pumps himself into the relationship a woman has a shop in Paris with an investment of everywhere, and says archly, “The red soles with her most beloved phallic symbol—her $160,000. In a stroke of his usual good remind me it is very important to be consis- shoe. Though sometimes a lady’s shoe obses- luck, Princess Caroline of Monaco hap- tent in the work.” Christina Agui lera wore sion can get a little much, even for him. “I am pened to pass by during the #rst month, his shoes on her last tour, and Jennifer so devoted,” gushes a raven-haired 26-year- and he worked her appearance to whip up Lopez staked her musical comeback on a old in a skintight Dior dress, sidling up beside buzz.

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