Christian Louboutin Exhibition[Niste] Press Kit

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN EXHIBITION[NISTE] PRESS KIT

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

EXHIBITION 26TH FEBRUARY - 26TH JULY

PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE 293 AVENUE DAUMESNIL - 75012 PARIS MÉTRO 8 • TRAMWAY 3A • BUS 46 • PORTE DORÉE LEXPOSITION.CHRISTIANLOUBOUTIN.COM

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRESS RELEASE p. 3

THE POSTER p. 4

INTRODUCTION BY HÉLÈNE ORAIN, EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE p. 5

THE EXHIBITION p. 6 BY OLIVIER GABET, CURATOR OF THE EXHIBITION

THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE p. 7 AS SEEN BY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

EXHIBITION ITINERARY p. 8

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN p. 14 BIOGRAPHY

OLIVIER GABET p. 15 BIOGRAPHY

ARTISTS AND CRAFTSPEOPLE IN THE EXHIBITION p. 16

VISUALS AVAILABLE FOR PRESS p. 20

THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE p. 35

THE MAISON CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN p. 35

BOOK: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN EXHIBITION[IST] p. 36

ARTE DOCUMENTARY p. 38

NORDSTROM p. 39 MAIN SPONSOR OF THE EXHIBITION

PRACTICAL INFORMATION p. 40

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THE POSTER

« L’Exhibition[niste] is a title that came to me quite quickly. It is a play on the idea of an exhibit and the act of exhibitionism. An exhibit, meaning to expose or display to the public and exhibitionism as drawing attention to oneself. Both are quite close, but I like the more subversive notion that in exhibiting my work I am exposing myself in a more intimate way. I’ve put a lot of myself in this project from both a professional and personal perspective. I reveal a lot of myself, of my inspirations, of my creative processes in this exhibition and I wanted this to be reflected in the title.» Christian Louboutin © Christian Louboutin

L’Exhibition[niste] Poster of Poster

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PRESS RELEASE

THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE PRESENTS CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S RICH CREATIVITY AND HIS SOURCES OF INSPIRATION

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN: THE EXHIBITION[IST]

26 FEBRUARY TO 26 JULY 2020 EXHIBITION CURATOR: OLIVIER GABET, DIRECTOR OF THE MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

From 26 February 2020, the Palais de la Porte Dorée panels created by the Maison du Vitrail, a Sevillian silver presents a major exhibition devoted to the work palanquin and a cabaret sculpted in Bhutan. The exhibi- and creativity of Christian Louboutin, the internatio- tion also unveils collaborations, never seen before, with nally renowned footwear designer and key figure in artists who are important to him: the director and pho- the fashion world. Designed as an invitation to disco- tographer David Lynch, the New Zealand multimedia ver Christian Louboutin’s rich universe, the exhibition artist Lisa Reihana, the British designer duo Whitaker explores every facet of his multi-referential work, in an Malem, the Spanish choreographer Blanca Li, and the institution that has played an important role in inspi- Pakistani artist Imran Qureshi, amongst others. ring his vocation. Born in the 12th district of Paris, close to the Palais de From the beginning, Christian Louboutin infused his la Porte Dorée, Christian Louboutin was fascinated from designs with a great wealth of motifs and colours ins- an early age by the architectural beauty and ornamental pired by his love of art and different cultures. Flam- richness of the institution, which was one of the earliest boyant, daring, open to the world, generous and at influences feeding his love of art and applied arts. He times caustic, the designer’s creativity is informed by borrowed a whole repertoire of forms and motifs from a passion for travel and references from the worlds of the Palais for his first designs, including the Maquereau pop culture, theatre, dance, literature and cinema. In shoe – made of metallic leather and directly inspired revealing Christian Louboutin’s inspirations and crea- by the iridescence of the fish in the Palais de la Porte tive processes, the exhibition showcases the designer’s Dorée’s tropical aquarium. It was also at the Palais, a vision through a selection of the most precious works masterpiece of Art deco, that Christian Louboutin, then from his personal collection and loans from public col- a young adolescent, noticed a sign forbidding visitors to lections. A large selection of shoes are on display, some wear high heeled shoes. This sign subsequently inspired of which have never been exhibited before. the iconic Pigalle shoe which has been reinvented over the course of the seasons. These historic and artistic pieces are shown along- side a number of exclusive collaborations which pay With this exhibition, the Palais de la Porte Dorée ini- tribute to Christian Louboutin’s admiration for crafts- tiates a new programme of events dedicated to contem-

man’s know how. Some examples include stained glass porary creation.

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INTRODUCTION BY HÉLÈNE ORAIN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE

Built for the 1931 Colonial Exhibition, the Palais de and his sources of inspiration. That is when the idea la Porte Dorée, with its iconic architecture, frescos of this exhibition, dedicated to Christian Louboutin’s and bas-relief facade, is recognised as a masterpiece imagination, was born. We decided to call on Olivier of the Art Deco period. The monument represents a Gabet, Director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs whose collaboration of the great artists of the time - architect expertise on such exhibitions is well established, to Albert Laprade, sculptor Alfred Janniot, painter Pierre- curate the exhibition. With him, this is an exhibition Henri Ducos de la Haille, and interior designers that is poised to be exemplary in every way. Jacques-Émile Rulhmann and Eugène Printz, among others. Since its creation, the exotic design has It marks a new chapter in the history of the Palais de fascinated visitors and stimulated their imaginations. la Porte Dorée, with a special programme presenting the many facets of this monument which has remained Among these visitors was Christian Louboutin. Growing forgotten for far too long. up in the 12th arrondissement he enjoyed spending his Sundays visiting the Palais galleries and aquarium. His ties to the monument are as much artistic as they are emotional. In 2017, Christian Louboutin contacted me. At the time, we were looking for patrons to participate in the restoration of the facades, the furniture of the salons and the museum’s library. It is during conversations with Christian on these projects that we understood the importance of the Palais in his work

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THE EXHIBITION BY OLIVIER GABET CURATOR OF THE EXHIBITION, DIRECTOR OF THE MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS

Today fashion is recognized as a key artistic domain, The entire exhibition is a challenge: how to give a fully represented in all major cultural institutions such sense of the passage of time without stopping it, how as the Palais de la Porte Dorée, Musée d’histoire de to show the designer’s effervescence without sterili- l’Immigration, as evidenced by the Fashion-mix exhi- zing it, how to reveal what constituted the network bition in 2014. The creative area that it occupies of such vital inspirations and friendships? Christian and the historical, political, social and anthropologi- Louboutin chose a generous approach, reflecting his cal questions that it raises make it an open, popular, personality, an imagination and a freedom rooted in inclusive, and universal space that often deeply rede- a sound knowledge of the world, of art and fashion, fines the very principle of access to the museum. For a voyage in which inventiveness, emotion and know- many segments of the population, and in the case of how, taste for showmanship and sense of humor are a growing number of first-time visitors, it is usually never dissociated. The unprecedented space that the reason to visit a cultural institution. Present in Christian Louboutin occupies in the world of contem- many public spaces, in the media and on social media, porary fashion is also attributable to the fact that his fashion is an intriguing and fascinating subject. work has its roots in popular culture, in the noblest sense of the word. Through metonymy, in cinema, and It is with those considerations in mind that the first music, Louboutins are now the quintessential shoes, major Parisian exhibition of the creations of Christian favored by all sexes, genders and origins, via the Louboutin has been conceived at the Palais de la Porte Nudes series. A child of the Palace (the iconic Parisian Dorée in 2020, covering nearly 30 years of a proli- nightclub in the late 70s and early 80s), Christian fic, learned and joyful activity. More than any other Louboutin connected his work and his name very early Parisian space, Christian Louboutin cares about the on to inclusive and positive figures, athletes or musi- Palais de la Porte Dorée: the neighborhood where cians, as illustrated by the famous photo on the cover he grew up, the museum that he visited as a young of the New York Post in memory of Aretha Franklin: boy, when this absolute Art Deco masterpiece then “Going in style, dressed in peace: Fire-red Louboutins, housed the national collections of the Arts of Africa gold-plated coffin, three costume changes.” and Oceania. As a young boy, it was the beauty of this architecture, the refinement of its décor and the poetic and human magic of those much-admired works, which opened up the imagination to the geography of the world and to all civilizations, that left an impression on Christian Louboutin. It is also the site of an early revelation: the sign forbidding visitors from walking with heels on the museum’s precious floors, the first shoe that was viewed, viewed again and revi- sited, and, forever more, the first step in the world of creativity.

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THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE AS SEEN BY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

The Palais de la Porte Dorée is a place that is very taposition of references borrowed from the arts dear to me. and cultures of the world, in theater, literature or cinema. I grew up in the 12th arrondissement and attended the Elisa Lemonnier and Paul Valery lycées, just The Palais’ invitation to create an exhibition in behind the Palais. I used to spend hours in the this space that showcases all of these inspirations cinemas on Avenue Daumesnil, which screened immediately made sense to me. Olivier Gabet has Indian and Egyptian movies at the time. On the imagined this exhibition as “an immersive pre- weekends, I would regularly go and daydream at sentation of a multi-faceted expression.” There the Tropical Aquarium, of the Palais de la Porte are inescapable moments, because that is also Dorée dazzled by the color and luminosity of tro- part of my life, but it is primarily an ever-chan- pical fish, and at the Musée des Arts d’Afrique et ging process of backs and forths, of discoveries, d’Océanie. rediscoveries and above all, encounters.

I have always been fascinated by the architectu- This exhibition showcases the precious rela- ral beauty and decorative richness of the Palais de tionships that have marked my journey, through la Porte Dorée, which played a key role in my life. working with craftsmen who possess unique This is where I discovered the diversity of applied expertise as well as collaborations with artists and decorative arts for the first time. I was intri- who are dear to me. gued by the refinement and the monumentality of Alfred August Janniot’s bas-reliefs, the spectacu- The exhibition concludes with a space that constitutes lar frescoes of Ducos de la Haille, and the Ruhl- both my “Imaginary Museum” and a place where any- mann and Printz furniture. This is also where I thing is possible, one simultaneously rooted in the pre- saw a drawing of a shoe for the first time. sent and looking towards the future. It includes not only inspirations, but also works that I care about, I immersed myself in all of these patterns – some of which have been part of my life for several abstract and figurative – and they formed a decades. subconscious repertoire of shapes, colors, and textures that never ceased to influence my ima- For me, this exhibition is an opportunity to pay tribute gination. Infused with a passion for travel – real to the Palais, which gave rise to my vocation and that or imaginary – my universe consists of a jux- has continued to inspire me ever since.

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EXHIBITION ITINERARY

Divided into ten sections, the exhibition covers nearly 30 years of Christian Louboutin’s creations, highlighting the different sources of inspiration and creative processes that characterize the designer’s approach.

1. ANTECHAMBER Upon entering the exhibition, the visitor is welcomed by the very object that serves as the key to this exhibition at the Palais de la Porte Dorée: the sign that for- bade the wearing of heels inside the former Musée des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, which used to be housed in the Palais de la Porte Dorée. This sign, with its sketch of a high-heeled shoe, made an impression on the Staining-glass creation, work-in-progress, Maison du Vitrail, Paris © Macassar Productions Paris Maison du Vitrail, Staining-glass creation, work-in-progress, young Christian Louboutin, who visited the museum regularly and was dazzled by the collections. Christian An extension of the introductory section, this room func- became such a fan of the museum’s collections that, tions as an antechamber to the rooms that follow. The from the age of 11, he returned to sketch them again room, with its many stain glass works, brings to life the and again. This first image would later serve as ins- designer’s early years and highlights his early influences, piration for the Pigalle shoe, one of the best-known his apprenticeship in trade, and the world surrounding models in his collection, which today consists of thou- his creative studio/apartment in the 9th arrondissement sands of pairs. of Paris. 2. EARLY YEARS The room is centered around a selection of Louboutin’s shoes from those that preceded the now iconic red sole to the early 2000s models. They are accompanied by some of his earliest drawings, sketches, works, mood boards and portfolios that Louboutin would use to showcase his work to designers he admired, such as Azzedine Alaïa. The windows in this room, which have been specially designed for the exhibition and made by the Maison du Vitrail in Paris under the direction of the master glass- maker Emmanuelle Andrieux, set out the eight consti- tuent elements of Christian Louboutin’s work: Parisian Women; Theater; Couture; Art; Travel; Craft; Sexuality; and Innovation. The windows also reaffirm his original attachment to the decorative arts and the craft profes- sions, while at the same time self-referencing the type of adoration of shoes which, beyond mere fetishism, runs right through the history of fashion, no longer as accessories but as true objets d’art.

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3. TREASURE ROOM couturier Madame Grès, or the shoe featuring graphic The Treasure room brings together Christian Louboutin’s designer Cassandre’s elegant YSL logo for Yves Saint most iconic creations. Each shoe on display embodies a Laurent’s last haute-couture catwalk show in 2002; real achievement, whether through the form imagined, primitive art, fed by his fascination for Africa, Oceania, the particular materials used, or the inspiration behind the Americas, Kachina dolls, and Hopi masks; archi- the commission, for its originality, or its art historical tecture and design, with Oscar Niemeyer and Bodys context. Isek Kingelez; modern art through the prism of In this room, a shoe made of synthetic crystal by Warhol, in the Pensées. Stéphane Gérard, a sculptor in Paris, is enthroned on a The Treasure room also presents a work specially designed silver palanquin fashioned by the Orfebrería Villarreal in for the exhibition by Pakistani artist Imran Qureshi. Seville and is decorated with rich embroidery executed in the workshops of the fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee in Kolkata, India. Everything is designed by 4. NUDES Christian Louboutin, who demonstrates his affinity and Started in 2013, the Nudes series is seen today as respect for the craftsmen with whom he works closely pioneering act in the world of fashion. By imagining to create his collections. a shoe that is truly flesh-colored for all skin types, The shoes are displayed around themes that reveal the shoe becomes a seamless extension of the leg. Christian Louboutin’s eclecticism— couture, travel, This has precedent in an old portrait of a member of the extremes of fantasy and innovation. All of them the Beauvau family in Lorraine, attributed to the artist are in keeping with the strong artistic references that François Quesnel (1543-1619) that Christian Louboutin consistently permeate this shoemaker’s work: the his- owns. To put together this series, Christian Louboutin tory of fashion, with turbaned, pleated nods to the contacted the duo of British artists Whitaker/Malem, Christian Louboutin in Seville, 2019 © Macassar Productions

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to unravel, inspired by the floral or vegetal vocabulary or by a delicate calligraphy, and conveying a sense of joyful serenity. Seen up close, however the reality is quite different: each of these decorative elements is actually made up of combinations of transformed bodies by the photographer Pierre Molinier (1900– 1976), who used to transform himself into a hyper- sexualized woman. This audacious “period room” shows how much the ideas we have about shoes are shaped by projections and suggestions that are often

Nudes Degrastrass © Jean-Vincent Simonet © Jean-Vincent Nudes Degrastrass a long way from reality. When he presents his spikes - shoes covered with studs whom he commissioned to make nine leather-clad or inverted nails - Christian Louboutin indicates that the sculptures in the nine colors of the Nudes collection. combination of leather and nails has always reminded Whitaker/Malem are absolute masters of the art of him, above all else, of what art enthusiasts and histo- leather cutting and stitching; they have specialized rians refer to as the “Haute Epoque”: the period from in this innovative sculptural technique since 1995. the Middle Ages to the beginning of the 17th century, Louboutin also found their long collaboration with that saw armour and leather-upholstered furniture Allen Jones inspiring, and worked with them in detail embellished in such a manner. A style that only later on these skin sculptures. came to hold very different connotations, suggestive of sexuality and domination, sadomasochism or referring to hard rock or heavy metal. 5. IN THE WORKSHOP For Louboutin, it is the historic decorative style that ser- Never limited to the appearance of a finished object, ved as inspiration behind his creation and yet, it is clear a shoe is the result of nearly a hundred steps that in this room how fantasy and suggestion can transform all contribute to its design, and just as many actions the original inspiration to a multiplicity of meanings. that allow its production. More than ever, fashion is the preferred context for expressing the craft profes- sions, bringing together the age-old work of the hand and the use of technology, from the most traditional to the most innovatory. A number of the objects here embody the creative process (feet, lasts, materials, tools), while a series of short films allows the main stages of making a shoe to be seen clearly in action, each corresponding to a precise definition:

“pattern-making,” “stitching,” etc.

6. SUGGESTIONS & PROJECTIONS Already visible in the previous rooms, the explora- tion of the imaginary and the system of representation around the shoe continues in this room which, at first glance, seems a harmless salon worthy of a mischie- vous but conservative English granny. By arranging this interior as an interior designer would, Christian Louboutin plays with decorative art and ornamenta-

tion: from a distance, relatively abstract motifs seem Pierre Molinier © Christian Louboutin

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7. BHUTANESE THEATER 8. UNE REVERIE In reference to his passion for Bhutan, Christian To conjure up the high points of his life—the ones Louboutin evokes an important aspect of his work that also throw light on the stages of his professional and his career here - his creations for the world of career—Christian Louboutin has chosen to call upon entertainment in all its forms - through a Bhutanese the New Zealand artist Lisa Reihana, who is of Maori theater with gigantic carved wood columns. descent. He spotted her thanks to her video work at Christian Louboutin was inspired by the stage early the 2017 Venice Biennale, where she had been entrus- on, a multi-faceted stage combining cinema and ted with her native country’s pavilion, but also during theater, cabaret and circus, and the world of sports the major exhibition Oceania, in London and Paris, stars and athletes, who, in our contemporary reality, with her seminal work in Pursuit of Venus [infected], in embody the world of showbiz. which the early-19th-century panoramic wallpapers of This theater contains an installation with two origi- Joseph Dufour, titled Les Sauvages de la mer Pacifique nal holograms, that of stripper and dancer Dita Von (Savages of the Pacific Ocean), become a realm where Teese, and football freestyler Iya Traoré. Two choreo- her vision and reflections on identity and otherness are graphic and gymnastic (even athletic) evocations in given free rein. With this new work, A Reverie, Reihana which the presence of the shoe anchors the weight invites us on a stroll through a dreamworld amid shif- of the bodies and the flexibility of the movement in ting projections of works from Louboutin’s personal col- space. Christian Louboutin’s most iconic creations in lection and the places that he loves. the field of entertainment are exhibited in this same room, be they special commissions (Tina Turner, Michael Jackson) or pieces designed with a particular style or personality in mind (Grand Rex, Lola Montès.). Christian Louboutin at the age of 14 leaving Christian Louboutin at the age of 14 leaving middle school © Bernard Faucon

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10. FETISH A collaboration between Christian Louboutin and filmmaker and photographer David Lynch - first unveiled to the public in 2007 - this room is designed to redis- play the combination of a set of shoes not made for walking and the photographs taken by Lynch. The shoe becomes an exacerbated way of telling other stories, invoking the question of fetishism and sexuality. Several shoes designed in this way remind the visitor, through their staging and photographic illustration, that it is less the heel than the arch of the foot that is the object of fetishism and fantasy, and the line of the leg that naturally or artificially emerges from it. The series of exhibited shoes shows the various forms of fetishist attachment: soles made of a veil fabric that makes it impossible to walk and force their wearer, to lie or sit down, Siamese heels for symbiotic rela- tionships; heels with their spearing points on the inner sole making it impossible to wear the shoe, which become useless objects whose artistic value transforms them into a work of art or a sculpture. Rihanna au Met Gala , 2018 © Getty Images Rihanna au Met Gala , 2018 © Getty

9. THE POP CORRIDOR The Pop Corridor is not an exhibition space, but a passageway between two worlds. Gathered here in no particular order are portraits of a dream family - Christian Louboutin’s - as well as of celebrities in music and cinema, and well-known friends. Each one tells a story, relates a moment, based around a shoe, or testifies to a musical or media-friendly memory. Images taken spontaneously, moments of universal and vibrant pop culture, funny anecdotes; here we find Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga, Rihanna, the late Kobe Bryant and the divine Sridevi, stars of Bollywood and Hollywood. Magazine covers from all over the world, and extracts from television shows and music videos, each illustration in this Corridor - whether moving or stationary - is a reminder of how much Christian Louboutin’s work, having first drawn from popular culture, has inspired the creative talents of our time, making Louboutin’s name a familiar word in the contemporary vocabulary. Ultima Ballerina © Jean-Vincent Simonet Ultima Ballerina © Jean-Vincent

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11. AN IMAGINARY MUSEUM cism, which is something that has shaped his work for The “Imaginary Museum” is conceived as a tribute to the almost thirty years: here we find moments from fashion, artists and art works that have been Christian Louboutin’s the prism of painting, the iconic figures from his - per constant companions since his teenage years. This lei- sonal pantheon and friends, queer culture, Gandharan surely stroll reminds us how much the Palais de la Porte art, contemporary African art, photography, a wealth of Dorée affected him as a place of memory - andins objets d’art, precious crosses, a Bhutanese royal crown, piration, when it was still the Museum of African and Wedgwood ceramics, numerous gems, folk art, verna- Oceanian Arts—the place where he experienced his first cular pottery, shells, and feathers. Christian Louboutin esthetic emotions, and that triggered future journeys. gives us the keys to this museum of subjective tastes, Curious about and receptive to all cultures, with no hie- commenting on each of the works he has chosen, as if rarchy or distinction, Christian Louboutin loves eclecti- the inspirations thus became new starting points.

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BIOGRAPHY

Once his collaboration with Roger Vivier came to an end, and after some time spent as a landscape designer, Christian Louboutin opened his first shoe shop in the 1st district of Paris and founded at the same time, in 1991, the “Maison” that bears his name.

Inspired by the vision of a melancholic Princess Diana, standing alone in front of the Taj Mahal, Christian Lou- boutin decided to pay tribute to her and created a pair of slippers bearing the word LOVE, so that she would never forget how much she was cared for.

In 1992 the legendary shoe we all know today was born. Whilst working on a prototype, which differed from his original sketch, Christian Louboutin took his assistant’s nail polish and painted the sole of the shoe a vivid, lacquered red. The prototype came to life and the iconic red sole, Christian Louboutin’s trademark, was born.

This spontaneous gesture is indicative of the way in which Christian Louboutin has built his “Maison”. Today, Christian Louboutin remains an independent “Maison”: this independence gives him the freedom to be spon- © Christian Louboutin taneous and instinctive. Constantly alert and attentive to those around him, Christian Louboutin develops fas- Christian Louboutin creates shoes and accessories, as cinating collaborations as a result of his travels, mee- well as collections of makeup and perfume. His crea- tings and conversations. He has in this way worked tions, which are worn by musicians and film stars as with craftsmen in Bhutan, Senegal, India, and Mexico, well as by royalty and athletes, are inhabited with a and with artists including Dita von Teese, photographer flamboyant exoticism, combining limitless creativity David Lynch, and singer Mika, who inspired him to with unique savoir-faire. create his first men’s collection in 2009. Born in Paris, Christian Louboutin was already drawing shoes by the age of 12. As a teenager, he started as an An insatiable traveller and an avid collector, Christian intern at the Folies Bergères and then with Charles Jour- Louboutin surrounds himself with objects which feed his dan who, at the time, made the shoes for Maison Chris- love of beauty and inspire his creativity. “Wherever I go, tian Dior. He then became the personal assistant to the there is always a garden to see, a museum, a church, a illustrious shoe designer Roger Vivier, a sculptor by trai- market, a concert, a piece of architecture. My main way ning, who taught him the importance of a correct line of being inspired is to stay open-minded. I try to go and and exceptional craftsmanship. look where others do not go”.

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OLIVIER GABET BIOGRAPHY

Olivier Gabet, who was appointed director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris in September 2013, is responsible for the collections of decorative arts, design, fashion, textiles, advertising and graphic art from the Middle Ages to the present day. He is also in charge of the collections of the Nissim de Camondo museum. His aim is to increase the national and international exposure of the institution through the enrichment and showcasing of the collections, which comprise more than 770,000 works, and through the exhibition pro- gramming. Since his arrival at the Arts Décoratifs, Oli- vier Gabet has curated several exhibitions, including Korea Now! (2015), Piero Fornasetti, la folie pratique (2015), L’Esprit du Bauhaus (2016), Christian Dior – couturier du rêve (2017) and Ten thousand years of © Eleonore Demey Luxury at Louvre Abu Dhabi (2019). He has written a number of books, including Un marchand entre deux Olivier Gabet, a specialist in decorative arts of the 19th empires, Elie Fabius et le monde de l’art (2011) and century, and a former student of the Ecole nationale des Japonismes, which was published in 2014. Chartes and of the Ecole nationale du Patrimoine, began his career as a curator at the Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris, responsible for its collection of furniture and objets d’art. In January 2005, he joined the Musée d’Orsay, where he was in charge of the collections of decorative arts covering the period 1850-1900. He also organised the museum’s contemporary exhibition programme “Correspondances”: Brice Marden, Pierre et Gilles, Jeff Wall, Robert Mangold, Jannis Kou- nellis. In January 2008, he joined Agence France-Mu- séums, which was leading the Louvre Abu-Dhabi project, as curator in charge of the decorative arts. He then became deputy cultural director, and took part in the development of cultural projects and setting the acquisitions policy.

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ARTISTS AND CRAFTSPEOPLE IN THE EXHIBITION BIOGRAPHIES

2014/15, Ikon Gallery in Birmingham presented a solo exhibition by Imran Qureshi, Deutsche Bank Artist of the Year 2013. Imran Qureshi’s work is present in permanent collections of major institutions including The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum, London. He is represented by Thaddeus Ropac Gallery and Corvi Mora Gallery. © All Rights Reserved © All

IMRAN QURESHI Imran Qureshi (born in 1972, Hyderabad, Pakistan) lives and works in Lahore, Pakistan. Imran Qureshi reclaims the regionally rooted discipline of miniature painting that flourished in the Mughal courts of the late sixteenth century and transports it to the present day. Renowned for his site-specific ins- © All Rights Reserved © All tallations, his work constitutes a unique synthesis of traditional motifs and techniques with current issues SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE and the formal language of contemporary abstract Sabyasachi Mukherjee is an Indian fashion designer painting. Leaves and nature represent the idea of life, (born in 1974, in India). whilst the color red (that appears at first glance like He started his eponymous label with a workforce of real blood) represents death. The red reminds Qureshi three in 1999 in Kolkata, India. Sabyasachi’s design of the situation today in his country, Pakistan, and the philosophy is very simple-personalized imperfection world, where violence is almost a daily occurrence. of the human hand. He believes that clothes should Imran Qureshi participated in the Venice Biennale in be an extension of one’s intellect. Deserts, gypsies, the main show: The Encyclopedic Palace, curated by antique textiles and cultural traditions of his home- Massimiliano Gioni in 2013. The same year, he created town- Kolkata have been a lifelong inspiration for him. a in-situ piece of art at the Metropolitan Museum: the He uses unusual fabrics, texturing and detailing, fusion Roof Garden Commission show. During the winter of of styles, patchworks with embellishments in a vibrant

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colors. The designer draws his inspiration from art premiered at the Auckland Art Gallery in May 2015 and such as the colours capes of French impressionists like has since been shown around the world and garnered Monet and Henri Matisse in his clothes. He pioneered widespread critical acclaim. Her work has featured in the use of Indian textiles in a modern context. important group exhibitions nationally and interna- The brand is renowned for dressing the top celebri- tionally including Oceania, Royal Academy, London, ties of India and for its appearance in many Bollywood England (2018); Suspended Histories, Museum Van productions. Between 2006 and 2009, the brand Loon, Amsterdam, Netherlands (2013); and Paradise Sabyasachi presented several collections at New York Now? Contemporary Art from the Pacific, Asia Society Fashion Week. In addition, Sabyasachi started a pro- Museum, New York (2004). ject called Save the Saree where he retails hand-woven Indian sarees on a non-profit basis, where the entire benefit goes to the weavers of Murshidabad. This ini- tiative is also strongly supported by Bollywood stars. © All Rights Reserved © All

LISA REIHANA Lisa Reihana (born in 1964, lives in New Zealand)

Lisa Reihana is a multi-disciplinary artist whose prac- © Frederic Aranda tice spans film, sculpture, costume and body - adorn ment, text and photography. WHITAKER MALEM Since the 1990s she has significantly influenced the Whitaker Malem (Patrick Whitaker & Keir Malem), are a development of contemporary art and contemporary duo of Designer Artisans - working for 30 years in the Māori art in Aotearoa New Zealand. She has earned area of body-based design from their studio in North an outstanding reputation as an artist, producer and London. After meeting in 1986 Keir Malem assisted cultural interlocutor with her attention to the com- with Whitaker’s final Fashion degree show at Saint plexities of contemporary photographic and cinema Martins School of art in 1987, after which they started languages expressed in myriad ways. Her ability to their collaboration. harness and manipulate seductively high production Renowned for their leather creations, they have also values is often expressed through portraiture where created female leather covered sculptures with legen- she explores how identity and history are represented, dary Pop Artist Allen Jones. From their roots in fashion, and the intersection of these ideas with concepts of their work quickly became visionary in the avant garde place and community. world of body-based art, craft and design. Their inte- Reihana represented New Zealand at the Venice rest in leather, as their material of choice stems from Biennale in 2017 with the large-scale video installation its versatility and its inherent skin like attributes. “in Pursuit of Venus [infected]” (2015-17). The work Their work can be found in permanent collections at a

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number of museums and institutions around the world understandable storyline, others break the codes of including the Museum of Leathercraft. linear and traditional cinematic storytelling. They are In 2017, their work has been exhibited at the Gallery representative of the manner in which the filmmaker Liverpool in Liverpool. They have worked extensively abandons his plot halfway and goes into a disrupted with Hollywood movies productions including 300, context where the actors seem to interpret different Batman’s iconic costume for The Dark Knight; & roles and where the sets have a new function. armour for Wonder Woman & the Amazonian warriors. In 1980, Mel Brooks decides to entrust Lynch with the directing of “Elephant Man.” The movie, shot in black and white, wins the Grand Prix at the Avoriaz Film Festival, and brings him great fame. Its suc- cess enables him to engage in a blockbuster production, “Dune” (1984), adapted from the work of Frank Herbert. He reconnects with the public with “Blue Velvet” (1986), an Avoriaz Film Festival Grand Prix. His next movie, “Wild at Heart” (1990) wins him the Palme d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival. In addition to his many talents behind the camera, David Lynch is also an actor. He directs himself in the “Twin Peaks” series and movie.

MAISON DU VITRAIL La Maison du Vitrail (founded in 1973 in Paris) is a company specialized in the design and restoration of stained glass. La Maison du Vitrail is recognized for its work on the restoration of heritage and on monu- mental creations. Over time, it has developed its know-how thanks to the continuous innovation of the equipment used, with utmost respect for tradition. The Atelier holds the largest collection of antique glass in France today. © Getty Images © Getty PALANQUIN ARTISANS DAVID LYNCH Villarreal Orfebreria has been founded in 1964 in David Lynch (born on January 29, 1946 in Missoula, Sevilla, Spain. United States) is an American filmmaker, photo- The Atelier is specialized in gold religious artwork and grapher, musician and painter. David Lynch tries his work especially on the religious Palanquins during cele- hand at cinema early on, conducting various experi- brations in Spain and Europe. In addition, Villarreal ments that result in “Eraserhead” in 1976, a nightma- Orfebreria works on renovation of religious monu- rish movie shot in black and white. Both in his series ments, inter alia, Sevilla cathedral, and monuments in and his films, he develops a very personal, surreal Rome, Brussels and Mexico. world where experimental cinema mingles with genre cinema, graphic art and innovative research, both in the drama and in the visuals (hypnotic images, disturbing soundtrack, taste for mystery, oddity and deformity…) Though some of his works have an

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TAREK SHAMMA After graduating from the Architectural Association in 2009 with Honors (AA Dipl Hons) Tarek Shamma has grown into one of the leading young architects in the fashion design industry. Prior to fou- ding Tarek Shamma Design in 2015, he worked with the Architects Zaha Hadid and David Chipperfield. Competitions at Zaha Hadid included the Cordoba museum of art and the Seville university library that is currently under construction. At David Chipperfield, Tarek held leading positions at both the Café Royal Hotel and the London design team.

Tarek Shamma’s desig studio spans retail boutiques, Concept stores and private residences. Boutiques include Christian Louboutin in Madrid, Brussels, Munich and Luxembourg, the Tasoni flagship in Zurich, and Issas’ shop-in-shop, Tokyo. Private residences range in design from soaring lateral spaces in New York, pied-à-terre in Paris, family dwellings in London and vacation homes on the red sea. His archi-

© All Rights Reserved © All tectural experimentation is underway with a Folly at the residence of Christian Louboutin in Portugal. BLANCA LI Amongst the publications and exhibitions, his work Blanca Li (born in 1964, in Grenada, Spain) is chore- has included digital architecture: passages through grapher, dancer, producer and interactive exhibit hinterlands by Ruairi Glynn and Sarah Shafiei and director. Takenaka Exhibition: best of Harvard, Colombia, AA When it comes to performances, operas, music and other leading international architectures schools videos or movies, Blanca Li developed a very large in Tokyo AND Kyoto. range of project. From flamenco to classical dance, electro dance to hip hop, the dancer has always explored different styles and finds her inspiration in a wide spectrum of art form. The dancer is also inspired by her own Arabic and Andalusian origins and puts energy at the heart of her work.

Living in France since 1992, she presented one year later Nana and Lila at the Festival d’Avignon. Then, Salomé on Charles Koechlin music in 1995 featured at the Quartz theater in France and Le Songe du minotaure in 1998, a ballet inspired from antique Greece. In 1997, she participated in the production of the Around the World music video from French duo Daft Punk. In December 2015, she came back on the stage of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées with Bolchoï ballerina Maria Alexandrova for Déesses &

Démones. Rights Reserved © All

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VISUALS AVAILABLE FOR PRESS THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE AND ITS AQUARIUM CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S SOURCES OF INSPIRATION

Maquereau shoe Christian Louboutin’s first creation in 1987. Image taken in front of the Tropical Aquarium of the Palais de la Porte Dorée in 1988 © Christian Louboutin

Maquereau shoe created by Christian Louboutin in 1987, in front of the Tropical Aquarium of the Palais de la Porte Dorée (Based on visual archives dating from 1988) © Christian Louboutin

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Information panel and crucial drawing at the origin of Christian Louboutin’s vocation © Christian Louboutin

The Palais de la Porte Dorée © Pascal Lemaître

Forum frescos in the Palais de la Porte Dorée by Pierre-Henri Ducos de la Haille © Cyril Sancereau

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN A SINGULAR AND INSTRUMENTAL FIGURE IN THE FASHION WORLD

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

Princess Caroline of Monaco during the Bal de la Rose in 1995 © Sipa

« Pensées » shoe Fall-Winter 1992-1993 © Jean-Vincent Simonet

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« Pigalle » shoe © Jean-Vincent Simonet

Zendayawearing the iconic Pigalle shoes at ParisFashion Week, July 2019 © Getty Images

Bella Hadid wearing shoes from the Nudes collection , Cannes 2019 © Getty Images

Nudes collection « Degrastrass » shoes © Jean-Vincent Simonet

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S RICH UNIVERSE A MULTI-FACETED INSPIRATION SELECTION OF ICONIC PIECES

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

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A TRIBUTE TO ARTS AND CRAFTS COLLABORATIONS WITH CRAFTSPEOPLE AS FOR THE EXHIBITION

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

Christian Louboutin and the Sabyasachi creative team Mumbai, 2019 © Macassar Productions

Christian Louboutin in Bhutan, 2019 © Macassar Productions

Stained glass windows in progress Maison du Vitrail, Paris © Macassar Productions

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN’S WORKSHOP THE MAKING OF A SHOE

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

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THE IMAGINARY MUSEUM OF CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

YSL x Claude «Wet Seal», Allen Jones, 1966 Lalanne, 1969 © D.R. ©Thierry Ollivier

La Vague Perpétuelle © Jean-Vincent Simonet

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PORTRAITS CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN AT THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. A CHILDHOOD IN THE 12TH ARRONDISSEMENT OF PARIS. NEAR PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE

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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN AND OLIVIER GABET AT THE MAISON DU VITRAIL

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

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PORTRAITS OF ARTISTS PRESENTED IN THE EXHIBITION

ADDITIONAL IMAGES AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST

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THE PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE

The Palais de la Porte Dorée was built by Albert Laprade for the International Colonial Exhibition of 1931. It is located in the east of Paris, represents an exceptional Art Deco ensemble and is listed as an historic monument. As an official palace, loaded with symbols, its layout benefited from the input of great artists and craftsmen of the time: the sculptor Alfred Janniot, the painters Pierre-Henri Ducos de la Haille, Ivanna and André-Hubert Lemaître and Louis Bouquet, the interior designers Eugène Printz and Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann, the ironworkers Gilbert Poillerat and Raymond Subes. It houses the Musée national de l’histoire de l’immigration and the Tropical Aquarium.

WWW.PALAIS-PORTEDOREE.FR

THE MAISON CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

Christian Louboutin established his business in the heart of Paris in 1991, first with a collection for Women followed by a Men’s collection a few years later, both recognizable by the signature red lacquered sole. 2014 welcomed the launch of Christian Louboutin Beauté. With a prolific collection of women’s and men’s shoes, handbags and small leather goods, Christian Louboutin now counts more then 160 boutiques around the world.

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BOOK CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN THE EXHIBITION[IST]

TEXTS BY ÉRIC REINHARDT FOREWORD BY OLIVIER GABET PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEAN-VINCENT SIMONET

A personal portrait of Christian Louboutin by Éric Reinhardt, this book offers an exclusive glimpse into the designer’s myriad inspirations.

In this new book, the inimitable designer reveals the influences behind his shoes, his imagination, his culture. Drawing on his large interest for precious or unusual objects and artworks, readers uncover Louboutin’s vivid fascination for figures of the art, fashion and entertainment world, from Oscar Niemeyer to Yves Saint Laurent and Tina Turner.

A true look into the master’s references, exquisite original drawings and sketches of footwear by Christian Louboutin juxtapose against objects and artworks, attesting of the influences on his work. Pieces from prestigious international museums, private collections, and the designer’s residences have been per- sonally selected by Louboutin in tandem with Olivier Gabet, director of the musée des Arts décoratifs and curator of the exhibition.

The intense photographs of an exclusive shooting by Jean-Vincent Simonet bring the electric, sensual style of Louboutin’s dazzling creations to the pages. Writer Éric Reinhardt, artistic and editorial director of the publica- tion, signs a playfully erudite dialogue with the designer that runs through this veritable Wunderkammer of a book. Published on the occasion of the unprecedented Christian Louboutin Exhibition show at the Palais de la Porte-Dorée in Paris (February 26 – July 28, 2020), this exquisite piece of bookmaking offers a highly personal, vivid glimpse into the talent and genius of the man behind the acclaimed red soles.

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Through his books, writer Eric Reinhardt (born in 1965) explores the individual’s relationship to society and to his family and professional environment. He is particularly concerned by questions of domination, humiliation and hap- piness, which he handles with a certain humor and cruelty, and often resorts to satire to denounce the idiosyncra- sies of his time. An artist of the intimate and of the sensitive, he defines his books as spell-making machines: it is by sharing with the reader, from within, what his characters feel, and by keeping as close as possible to what they expe- rience, that, in his view, the knowledge of reality, of anger and of awareness are best conveyed, whether in the working world, in marital harassment or in financial capitalism’s effects on our lives, as he has demonstrated in one book after another. In this respect, his work is both poetic and political. Eric Reinhardt was revealed to the general public in 2007 with his critically acclaimed, landmark novel, Cendrillon. Nominated twice for the Goncourt and Medici awards, namely for the controversial The Victoria System (Penguin Ran- dom House, 2014), Eric Reinhardt received the Roman des Etudiants France Culture Télérama award and the Renaudot des lycéens award for his best-seller L’amour et les forets (2014). A contemporary dance and performing arts enthu- siast, he has also written the libretto of an Angelin Preljocaj ballet for the Opéra Bastille, shot prima ballerina Marie- Agnès Gillot in a short film producedfor the Opéra de Paris and written a play as well as an opera libretto. Eric Reinhardt has known Christian Louboutin since 2001. An art publisher, he was the writer and artistic director of an illustrated book published in 2011 by Rizzoli New York for the 20th anniversary of the Christian Louboutin fashion house. He is back in a publishing role again with a splendid exhibition catalog, which he has produced in close collaboration with the inventor of red soles.

Jean-Vincent Simonet is a French photographer. He graduated from ECAL Lausanne in 2014 and was awarded the Swiss Design Awards in 2015, 2017 and 2018. His work has been exhibited at the FOAM in Amsterdam in 2015, the Tate Modern in London in 2016 and has been selected for the Festival International de Mode, de Photographie et d’Accessoires de Mode de la Villa Noailles in Hyères in 2019.

Rizzoli New York is a publishing house created 1974 and has become a leader in the fashion, interior design, culi- nary, art, architecture, and photography fields.

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DOCUMENTARY SUR LES PAS DE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

In less than three decades, he took his shoes, with their invariably red soles to the top of the fashion empire. A number of stars, from Kate Moss to Rihanna and Leonardo DiCaprio, collect them like jewellery. Through exclusive access to its creative process, this documentary aims to immerse the viewer in the world of Christian Louboutin on the eve of his first major exhibition in the Palais de la Porte Dorée, opening in February.

A DOCUMENTARY BY OLIVIER GAROUSTE (France - 2019, 52MN) COPRODUCTION: ARTE GEIE, MACASSAR PRODUCTIONS, UPSIDE

Broadcasting on ARTE on Friday the 13th of March at 10:20 p.m. Available in video on demand for 30 days.

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MAIN SPONSOR OF THE EXHIBITION

Nordstrom, Inc. is a leading fashion retailer based in the U.S. Founded in 1901 as a shoe store in Seattle, today Nordstrom operates 380 stores in 40 states, including 119 full-line stores in the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico; 247 Nordstrom Rack stores; three Jeffrey boutiques; two clearance stores; six Trunk Club clubhouses; and three Nordstrom Local service concepts. Additionally, customers are served online through Nordstrom.com, Nordstromrack.com, HauteLook and TrunkClub.com. Nordstrom, Inc.’s common stock is publicly traded on the NYSE under the symbol JWN.

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION

ACCÈS Métro - Tramway - Bus - Porte Dorée Les personnes à mobilité réduite accèdent au Palais par le 293, avenue Daumesnil, 75012 Paris. www.palais-portedoree.fr

PRESS CONTACTS

PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE Pierre Laporte Communication Samira Chabri, Alice Delacharlery, Laurent Jourdren, T. +33 1 45 23 14 14 E. [email protected]

MAISON CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN BRUNSWICK ARTS Annabelle Türkis, Afonso Oliviera T. +33 6 11 22 37 94 - +33 7 78 30 14 31 E. [email protected]

MEDIA PARTNERS

CONCEPTION

ARTISTIC DIRECTION Christian Louboutin EXHIBITION CURATOR Olivier Gabet PRODUCTION Bureau Betak

PALAIS DE LA PORTE DORÉE MUSÉE NATIONAL DE L’HISTOIRE DE L’IMMIGRATION | AQUARIUM TROPICAL 293 avenue Daumesnil - 75012 Paris | www.palais-portedoree.fr