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New Developments in Dyeing Process Control

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New Developments in Dyeing Process Control Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research Vol. 21, March 1996, pp. 41-49. New developments in dyeing process control M DTeli Department of C hemical Techn9logy, University of Bombay, Matunga. Bombay 400 019, India Present textile market is buyers' market. The consumer dictates the term as far as the quality, quantity and delivery schedule are concerned. To withstand such competition. the manufacturers/processors have to adopt total quality management approach so th at not only they ge t the ~ond~ processed ri ght at the first time, but quality is ensured. I ncreasing environmental polluti on a\l4areness has thrown new challenges before the textile technocrats. The present paper reviews the new developments in the field of dyes manufactured, methods of application and machinery used . It also takes into account the impact of advent of micro fibres and specihc developments in processing of terry-towels, garments. etc. The future trend is also predicted based on all the above factors. Keywords: Dyei ng. Di sperse dyes. Reacti ve dyes. Polyester fibre. Cellulosic fibre. Wool fibre , Silk fibre . Dyeing machinery 1 Introduction also account for a sizable production and some deve~ The globalization has widen the scope of the textile lopments in this respect need to be also summarized. business with the inevitable entry of international co­ The advancements in dyeing processes have bea ring mpetition. The challenges and opportunities are incr­ on the developments In dyes and newer easing and the appropriate response has to be evoked. applications. in terms of technological advancement and on-time The colouration and finishing are the key stages in delivery. Such "quality and quantity" supply has to imparting fa shion appeal to the textile apparels. The be done on the basis of right-first-time, right-every­ timing and positioning of colouration in the handling time, quick response approach. While this is being of textile are essential factors in ensuring that a chosen attempted, it is also incumbent to consider reduction ma rket is supplied with the right product at the right in energy and production cost. The challenges posed time and in ri ght quantities as well as at the right by this decade revolve around the conservation of pnce. environment, an issue which has aroused the attent­ The first aspect of Quick Response (QR) to consi­ ion at global level and will direct th!! future chemical der is the shortening of the traditional pipeline l by technological adva ncements predominantly. eliminating unnecessary inventories and optimiza­ The emergence of new materials such as polyester tion of process times. Learning to operate with signifi­ microfibres, increasing applications of computer tec­ cantly lower stocks of raw materials and finished go­ hnology for recipe prediction as well as for expert ods is no simple matter because so many new discipli­ systems of dyeing and fini shing, and the increasing nes must permeate the organization. One such new use of microprocessor-based process monitoring discipline is the Right-First-Time concept in wet and control equipment will stimulate the fin e tuning processing. The objective is to avoid unnecessary act­ of our production efficiency and effectiveness as well ivity and complexity- wasted time, wasted energy, ,\seconomy. The opportunities placed before us, of wasted material and correction of errors. This in posi­ course with a package of challenges, in post-GATT tive terms means quality managementz (QM). period need to be exploited and it is the technological As far as the recent trends in dyeing process contr­ advances which will be playing major role in shaping ols are concerned, they are the result of developments the destiny of this industry. in dyes, fibres, application conditions and machine­ When one talks about technological advance­ ry3. ments in dyeing process control it is natural tha t the majority of these advances are concentrated on dye­ 2 Developments in Dyes ing of woven fabric. However, dyeing of garment, The technological developments in the dyestuff in­ terry-towel, microfibre and hosiery or knit goods dustry are taking place from the point of view of: 42 INDIAN 1. FIBRE TEXT. RES., MARCH 1996 (i) High-performance products It has good fastness to heat-setting/wet treatments Concentrated brands: To minimize neutral cutt· too. ing agents and to incorporate useful additives. Navy Blue··CF: It is an extension to the Palanil CF Non-dusting brands: Granulated and liquid (Controlled Fastness) series and is suitable for all dye­ brands. ing processes. The use of non-dusting grains or powders and liq­ Brilliant Blue BGM-CF: It can be readily thermo­ uid brands of dyes help in minimizing air/water pollu­ fixed and has good light fastness even at hi~hte'mpera­ tion and in application of automated dye dispensing ture. It is particularly suitable for automotive systems. textiles. • Dispersol SF (Super Fast), a new range from ICI (ii) Cost effectiveness which inCludes black, navy, rubine, yellow, blue Increased automation, advanced instrumentation and brown dyes specifically targeted for dull tern­ and controls, and computerization for the manufact­ ary shades, a very difficult area fo r most dyers. uring operations with the objectives of high quality They are alkali clearable dyes and exhibit extre­ standards help in cost reduction and increasing profi­ mely low cross-staining. tability with Quality production. • The Dispersol XF range complements the ICI Di­ spersol SF (Super Fast) dyes which are benzodifu­ (iii) Health , safety and ecology 4 ranone ba6ed . Selection of dyes is necessary from the points of view of: • A fascinating area of disperse dye chemistry has been the development of high-value speciality co­ Avoiding the use of dyes which can fonn on reduc­ lours giving brilliant fluorescent dyes. These are tion carcinogenic amines, and complicated, expensive structures involving sop­ Selection of high exhaustion/fixation dyes, parti­ histicatd organic chemistry yielding brilliant sha­ cularly among reactives. des with acceptable fastness propertiess. Most of the product development has been concen­ • Zeneca (previously ICI) has introduced diester, trated in the field of disperse and reactive dyes. Some thiophene and benzod'ifuranone based high fast­ of the new dyes of these classes introduced in the mar­ ness Dispersol dyes. They obviate the need for ket in recent years are briefly reviewed here. reduction clearing and are used in both exhaust and continuous dyeing. • Marlow-Van Loan Corp. offers a new disperse 2.1 Disperse Dyes bfack which claims excellent colour yield and ex­ Disperse dyes are used to colour polyester. Anthra­ haustion properties in dyeing of polyester6 . quinone dyes have much lower colour values and are • Black ASB Extra exhibits superior sublimation, more expensive although they give valuable bright light, wash and perspiration fastness properties red, blue and turquoise shades whereas azo dyes offer and high alkaline stability, thus enabling to acco­ a full shade range and high colour values. With the mplish single bath dyeing of polyester/cellulosics advent of jet dyeing and tHermosol application, the with minimum staining. search for new chromophores has led to the develop­ ment ofbenzodifuranone dyes of high colour value, brightness of shade, good substantivity and low ther­ 2.2 Reactive O V,,'S momigration. Some of the new disperse dyes availa­ Of all the classes of dyes used for cellulose, reactive ble are: dyes account for 21 % of total consumption of dyes in • Resoline Brilliant Red F 3GS (Bayer) has good the world and show upward trend in their application fastness to dry heat fixation and high brilliance for obvious reasons. which is required for fashion polyester and poly.e- Recently, a new generation of bi- and poly­ ster/cotton sports and leisure wear. ' functional dyes have been introduced which consist • BASF has introduced a new series of Pal ani! dyes of homo or hetero reactive systems. As a result, exha­ in its Palanil disperse range- Palanil Black G, ustion, fixa tion and migration can be controlled, lea­ Red FFB, Navy Blue GN, Navy Blue-CF, Brilli­ ding to much improved dye fixation and better repro­ ant Blue BGFN and Brilliant Blue BGM-CF. ducibility. Some of the recent additions are reviewed These dyes are available as low-dusting powders/ here. liquids. • Sumifix Supra range (bifunctional) has a high de­ Palanil Bue BGFN: Suitable for polyester blend gree of exhaustion and fixation, resulting in less dyeing, it is in sensitive to dyebath pH and reduction. wl:lshi ng-off (hence less dye in the effluent), high TELl: DEVELOPMENTS IN DYEING PROCESS CONTROL 43 fa stness to li ght, perspiration, peroxide washing In Indian market too, a number of companies have and chlorinated water, and high stability to acid come out with high-exhaustion a nd medium-exhau­ hydrolysis? stion bireactive d yes which a re finding increasi ng ap­ • Kayacelon reactive dyes are high-temperature plica tions. neutral -dyeing dyes which a re especially suitable for fast processing of cotton and o ne-bath dyeing 3 Developments in Application Methods of cotton/nylon, cotton / ~crylic and cotton/poly­ ester blends. 3.1 Pol)"ester Fibres • Cibacron C rangedyes (Ciba-Geigy) are bifunct­ During the dyeing of po lyester fibre. the conventio­ ional reactive dyes which have an aliphatic vinyl nal dyeing liquor contains la rge a1Tlounts of dispers­ sulphone gro up combined with either a monoflu­ ing agents a nd surfactants which are used to get rea­ orotriazine group o r an aromatic vinylsulpho ne sona ble rates of dyeing, ensuri ng levelness. This leads group with following features: to an effluent loaded with dye and dispersing agents Suitable for pad application and exhaust d yeing which is to be treated with an ever increasing cost. One at low liquor ratios, radically new approach is to use supercritical CO2 Very good solubility a nd hi gh to ve ry high degrees medium for dyeing PET with disperse d yes9 .
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