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The Influence of Woven Fabric Structures on the Continuous Dyeing of Lyocell Fabrics with Reactive Dyes

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The Influence of Woven Fabric Structures on the Continuous Dyeing of Lyocell Fabrics with Reactive Dyes The Influence of Woven Fabric Structures on the Continuous Dyeing of Lyocell Fabrics with Reactive Dyes A thesis submitted by Uzma Syed In accordance with the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Heriot-Watt University School of Textiles and Design Scottish Border Campus Galashiels November 2010 The copyright in this thesis is owned by the author. Any quotation from the thesis or use of any of the information contained in it must acknowledge this thesis as the source of the quotation or information. To my Parents and Grandparents ACADEMIC REGISTRY Research Thesis Submission Name: Uzma Syed School/PGI: School of Textiles and Design Version: (i.e. First, Final Degree Sought Doctor of Philosophy Resubmission, Final) (Award and Subject area) Declaration In accordance with the appropriate regulations I hereby submit my thesis and I declare that: 1) the thesis embodies the results of my own work and has been composed by myself 2) where appropriate, I have made acknowledgement of the work of others and have made reference to work carried out in collaboration with other persons 3) the thesis is the correct version of the thesis for submission and is the same version as any electronic versions submitted*. 4) my thesis for the award referred to, deposited in the Heriot-Watt University Library, should be made available for loan or photocopying and be available via the Institutional Repository, subject to such conditions as the Librarian may require 5) I understand that as a student of the University I am required to abide by the Regulations of the University and to conform to its discipline. * Please note that it is the responsibility of the candidate to ensure that the correct version of the thesis is submitted. Signature of Date: 13-10-2010 Candidate: Submission Submitted By (name in capitals): Signature of Individual Submitting: Date Submitted: For Completion in Academic Registry Received in the Academic Registry by (name in capitals): Method of Submission (Handed in to Academic Registry; posted through internal/external mail): E-thesis Submitted (mandatory for final theses from January 2009) Signature: Date: Please note this form should bound into the submitted thesis. Updated February 2008, November 2008, February 2009 Abstract Tencel, a regenerated cellulosic fibre is synthesised by an environmental friendly process. It can be dyed by the same dye types as recommended for other cellulosic fibres. The behaviour of reactive dyes on Tencel woven fabric varies with the type and the density of woven fabric. The highly crystalline Tencel fibre is less easy to dye uniformly by the continuous dyeing methods because of the short time of contact between the dye and fibre. The purpose of this work is to investigate the influences of weave structure on dyeing of standard Tencel fabric using reactive dyes applied by continuous dyeing methods. Programmes are developed using Matlab software to measure the fabric porosity and uniformity of fibre coloration (UFC) in the yarns of the woven fabric. UFC is also measured subjectively. Firstly, fabrics of four different weave structures (plain, 2/1, 3/1, 5/1 twill fabric) are studied. The visual depth and UFC standard deviation values is highest for the 2/1 twill fabric, gradually reducing towards the 5/1 twill fabric. Secondly, nine plain weave fabrics of different fabric densities are dyed using different padding procedures - a liquor temperature of 40⁰C with a 1 min dwell time and with a 5 min dwell time, and liquor at room temperature without any dwell time. The padded fabrics are then fixed by pad-steam, pad-dry-steam, pad-batch and pad-dry-thermosol continuous dyeing processes. To improve colour depth the plain weave fabrics are given a caustic pre-treatment and their dyeing characteristics are compared with untreated fabrics. The causticised fabrics are dyed using the same padding procedures, for comparison. The optimum dyeing procedure is found to be padding with a dwell time of 1 min in liquor at 40⁰C after caustic pre-treatment to achieve the highest visual depth, dye uptake, and uniformity of fibre coloration. The fibrillation tendency of the Tencel plain weave fabrics is also reduced using this procedure. Numerical relationships are established to enable the prediction of dyeing properties such as colour strength, UFC for fabrics of different weave structures, applied by the various continuous dyeing processes. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS First of all, I would like to thank to almighty ALLAH (the most gracious and merciful), who gave me the courage and determination to complete this project successfully. I would like to thank my main supervisor, Prof.R.H.Wardman, for his advice, enthusiasm and support, which were invaluable to the project and greatly appreciated. I would also like to thank my second supervisor, Prof.R.M.Christie, for his advice and support in dye chemistry. My sincere thanks to the staff of School of Textiles and Design, particularly Mrs Ann Hardie, Dr. Christine Taylor, Dr. Roger Spark, Mr. Jim McVee and Mrs Christine Kellett, Mrs Ruth Smith for their patience, help and kindly assistance during my studies. I would like to thank Mr. Jim Taylor, Lenzing AG, Austria, for his sponsorship, guidance, help and useful discussion during studies. In addition, I would like to thank Prof.C.M.Carr for allowing use of the microspectrophotometry and Ms Alison Harvey for her assistance, University of Manchester, U.K and Dr Peter Rhodes, University of Leeds, U.K for his support and kind advice on assessing UFC. I would like to thank Huntsman and DyStar U.K for supplying the reactive dyes and auxiliaries. I‟m grateful to my scholar Mehran University of Engineering and Technology, Pakistan, which enable me to carry out this research. Finally, I will give my best gratitude to my family for their love, patience and understanding support throughout my studies. Table of Contents Table of Contents.............................................................................................................. i List of Figures................................................................................................................viii List of Tables...................................................................................................................xii CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION..................................................................................... 1 1 Introduction ............................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Background ....................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Research Aims .................................................................................................. 4 1.3 Thesis Contribution ........................................................................................... 5 1.4 Thesis Outline ................................................................................................... 6 1.5 Publication ........................................................................................................ 7 CHAPTER 2: LYOCELL FIBRE.……………………………………………………...8 2 Lyocell Fibre ............................................................................................................. 8 2.1 History of Lyocell Fibre .................................................................................... 8 2.2 Chemistry of Cellulose .................................................................................... 10 2.2.1 Molecular Level ........................................................................................ 11 2.2.2 Supermolecular Structure .......................................................................... 13 2.2.2.1 Polymorphic Lattice Structure / Unit cell structure ........................... 15 2.2.2.1.1 Cellulose-I ..................................................................................... 16 2.2.2.1.2 Cellulose –II .................................................................................. 17 2.2.2.1.3 Cellulose-III ................................................................................... 19 2.2.2.1.4 Cellulose-IV .................................................................................. 19 2.2.2.2 Orientation of Regenerated Cellulosic Fibre ..................................... 19 2.3 Manufacturing Method of Lyocell Fibre......................................................... 21 2.3.1 Raw Material ............................................................................................. 21 2.3.2 Manufacturing Process .............................................................................. 23 2.3.2.1 Preparation of Wood Pulp.................................................................. 24 2.3.2.2 Dissolving Cellulose .......................................................................... 24 2.3.2.3 Filtering .............................................................................................. 24 2.3.2.4 Spinning ............................................................................................. 25 i 2.3.2.5 Washing ............................................................................................. 25 2.3.2.6 Drying and Finishing ......................................................................... 25 2.4 Types of Lyocell Fibre .................................................................................... 29 2.4.1 Standard Tencel ........................................................................................
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