"THE GREAT 'WESTEBN EOAD"

Illustrated.

By Frank Walker.F.R.A.H.S

MAMULMft VFl A WvMAfclVA/tJt* . * m ■ f l k i n

£ f g £ 1 J k k JJC " l l K

tfZZ) G uild,n g j XoCKt AHEA . &Y0AtMY.

*

' e x . l i e.k «5

— »Ti^ k W^ukeK.^-* crt^rjWoofi. f^jw. ^ . '

--T-* "TTT" CiREAT WESTERN BOAD”

Illustrated.

—— By Fra^fr talker-F.R.A.H,S

Ic&Sc&M

The Great Western Hoad.

I ■ -— ' "......

------FORE W ORE ------

The Ji5th April,x815,was a"red-letter day" in the history of Hew South Wales,as it signalled the throwing open of the newly“discovered western country to settlement,and the opening of the new road,which was completed by William uox,and his small gang of labourers in January,of the same year. The discovery of a passage across those hither­ to unassailaole mountains by ulaxland,Lawson and wentworth,after repeated failures by no less than thirteen other expeditions;the extended discoveries beyond Blaxland s furthest point by ueorge William Evans,and the subsequent construction of the road,follow -ed each other in rapid sequence,and proud indeed was i.acquarie, now that his long cherished hopes and ambitions promised to be realised,and a vast,and hitherto unknown region,added to the limited area which for twenty-five years represented the English settlement in . Separated as we are by more than a century of time it is difficult to realise what this sudden expansion meant to the tfeen colony,cribbed,cabbined and confined as it had been by these mysterious mountains,which had guarded their secret so well, '^-'he dread spectre of famine had once again loomed up on the horizon before alaxland s successful expedition had ueen carried out,and the starving stock required newer and fresher pastures if they were to survive. All these things were of the past now, and a well made road,extending from the Nepean to the site .of the future city of Bathurst,invited traffic,and the virgin country into which it led,stood expectantly open,with waiting arms,ready to welcome the first settler willing to posess it. The construction of that first road, wiiich oy reason of the wild and rugged country. through which it passed, presented almost unsurmountable difficulties to that inexperi­ enced band of road engineers,was,in itself,a remarkable under­ taking,and may be classed as one of the most wonderful pieces of engineering in Australian history. With a working strength of only thirty,and having to face the rigours of a mountain winter for the greater part of the time,the story of this work as told in the pages of s juiary,is not only interesting,but it calls forth admiration for the pluck and perseverance of the leader and his band. Ho hardship was too great;no disappointment too keen,and though failures were frequent,and almost superhuman difliculties presented themselves, uox•s dogged perseverance alone carried him through,and success was his reward at last. The road was commenced on July 7,lol4,and on the 14th January in the following year uox was able to report to o.e ..Oi scqaarie that his .task was finished,and the road ready; j.0- ora.;.lie, A few months were allowed to intervene when,as men Cloned above,the official opening of the road took place on the ensuing &oth April,1S15. The following extract from Cox’s Diary *

■ - ......

--—------1__ L__ ,______,__ ___1 __ I_ '______' ______. BHflp ,

r .--- .. wmfrHrhrM- ... - -Ji -• r*

. m m B m 1

. &J.. ,ui!SJj£-,--■ r , 4: i-V. ev * Si : , .•> .. J5r ,%■ *•. ■, c.

.. r

r • ! . :1a _ i „ a . : ... ,<; >r , -f . . iii.' atatl if. ;i | ' • M Mn-.-. L 1 •• ■ . • ! 2 The Great Western Hoad

as contained in his "Memoirs" is worth recording ,as it gives ap. exact idea of the names of those who composed the party,of which Governor Macquarie was the leader.- »...... On April £5th of that year (1815) Governor macquarie drove his car^- iage across it (the road) ,from to eathurst..... accompanied by Mrs wlacquarie. The following gentlemen composed the Governor's suite;-Mr Campbell,secretary.,Captain Antill ,Major of Brigade.,Lieutenant Watts taide de ■campj.,Mr Oxley,Surveyor General, ,Mr-Meehan,Depmty-Sur­ veyor General.,Mr Lewin,painter and naturalist, and Mr G. W.Evans,Deputy-Surveyor of Lands..." The importance of this expedition,it might be thought,*oula be heralded with a flourish of trumpets,in th£ press of the day,but beyond a short and concise notice in the "Gazette",stating the fact of the Governor s departure,and the names of those who accompanied him,the opportunity for the ais}- play of a little pardonable rhetoric is not made use of. Prob­ ably optimism on the part of the staff of the Government organ was not encouraged,even if it existed,and the great possibili­ ties of the opening of that first Western road,and its effects on posterity were list sight of. The Governor in an official letter,which i$ also a G0vernment Proclamation,remarks that "....the tour was "undertaken for the purpose of being enabled,personally,to "appreciate the importance of the tract of country lying to th$ "west of the Blue Mountains...." further on he expresses "his astonishment and regret that amongst so large a population no one appeared within the first twenty-five years of the estab­ lishment of this settlement,possessed of sufficient energy of mind to induce him fully to explore a passage over these moun­ tains". This was rather rough on the courageous men who had already made repeated attempts to accomplish this very thing, but had failed. The Governor certainly makes reference to bass and Caley,two of thse very men,but he seems to have been sur­ prisingly ignorant of the very existence of such men as tfarral lier,Tench,^rose,Wilson,and others,not to speak of Governor Phillip,to whom the problem of the mountains,and what lay be­ hind them,appealed very early in his career. Macquarie s journey from day to day is very graphically told in Cox s Memoirs, which contained the text of the above mentioned proclamation. At most of the halting place*; Lewin,the painter,secured lasting mementoes of the Governor's visit,and thse,in the form of a series of exquisite paintings, now in the possession of the Antill family,at Picton,are of th<» greatest historical vaiue,and take the place of the photograph of the present day. The tints of the Australian foliage are 9 fb lank]

: \r: n ,**.«..•<...... '

7 • fl >r 7-^T .. r* ’ ,1 ' “ , .... Tr - $1 rr W; V . rT'!-> ' -■ ' — M, _ .. - . '-*r-_ ... ft- ; . .• ! t j ' ; - r | ■?■■■;■ ■ t ‘ v - ■ • • •> , . iiviu, n.l... v,,» . ■ .. . ::.- ..* e-..;-.:; :!';..f>r.dc . - v , V • - . >/'i< .. , *„:.J. '.W > v ... , . V f 'i : if--.. j I. • . / - : W . T , 1 . . . .1ft \;o ,v-rut.- .

*)< r-'.*'-.- V. •• - r • M ... . 2 «. - ...... - * ..IV- Cl.

I

. .... - 1

■ ax;-’1 =. a £J; . . vj &. " ‘ -Jt

-v ^ . :.U - v : , J,..- . . i : ;...... _i- ■ © . & -v; -/I*. , I:-: . ^ . . ! ..I': , - . , • . a‘ - ....

H of^ovw ‘ro 2 ft'-, c .ort»>.res*Jfcrf,ago-1ikIo 1. 0 ti. hi .^3j citi. \ -ie C 'y: ,, .. ?: ■' ., ,

• ...... » • — .* .« • •* — ....• ■•- - ■ . ' - ■ , . • ;• . i: i.: . ... -Jj'o-'AI ■. t ■■ -- :. . -ijj ir: (toizs- -i : »«•.. m*££0*t7..s . t :tj :z.-£t t . : i :: ~ v . : w The Great Western Road 3

-.— ------rendered with a fidelity to nature,which must be seen to be appreciated,and in some of the views there are portraits of the members of the party which may readily 'be distinguished. When the party reached the neighbourhood of Lin -den,a curious heap of stones was found at the side of the road to which Macquarie,never at a loss for a name,decided to call "CALEY'S REPULSE”,after the explorer of that name. As a matter of fact,although Macquarie was unaware of it,ualey was never within miles of the place,but "caley s Kepulse" it remained to the end of the chapter. In 1916 a number of members of the then Australian Historical Societyiof which the writer was one,j when searching in this locality for this particular relic,had the good fortune to discover it,or rather what remained of it, the position in which it was found corresponding exactly with the description given in many contemporary works. It has now been restored and a suitable inscription placed thereon. Macquarie;s favorite hobby,the bestowal of names upon the various places met with during the tour,was free­ ly exercised,consequently we have such appellations as the "Kir "King's Tableland".,"Prince Regent;s Glen",,"Mount York".,"val€ of Clwydd".,Biackheath""Clarence Hilly Range".,"Cox s Pass", etc.,etc.,names which have wisely been retained to the present day. The arrival of the party at Mount York is described,and Macquarie's admiration of the pass which Cox had formed down the steep end precipitous sides of this famous mountain,found vent in^eulogistic terms. "As a tribute justly due to him",says Macquarie,"his name was given to this grand and extraordinary pass". The old road is still in existence,and during the Cen­ tenary Celebrations in lS13,was visited by crowds of sight see rs. Mount iilaxland,the terminal point of the first explorer s expedition was pointed out to Macquarie,as also the two sugar- loaf peaks standing near,which have been called after the two other members of tflaxland s expedition. The first named now bears an inscription, setting forth the fact that at this point Blaxland terminated his journey,and in years to come this ueie brated mountain will,without doubt,prove attractive to visitors with a taste for Australian History. On Thursday the 4th i»ay ,xiacquarie and party reached the site of the future city of oathurst,and an encamp^ ment was formed on the left bank of the ,some­ where in the vicinity of the present iioly Trinity uhurch at Kelso. On the 7th May the Ggvernor fixed on the site of the town,to which the name of uathurst was given in honor of the then Secretary of s*ate for the uoionies. ,J-'He road measured 101-| miles from Emu Ford to the site of the proposed town,which the Governor divided up into easy stages .averaging about 12 miles each,"at all of which!1 so runs tne account, "the traveller may assure himself of good grass and water in abundance". The return was made to Sydney on -l^ux scay ,11th AViay,the party reaching their homes on Friday,the nr.,; . ■ nx.| \u m, &a, >• rc,i m\ a*.:

; 1 • ,i!’-"1- ‘;i ■ ■ . — ; ...... ’...

* ® 4£° ? W ‘ 4 Wp -u + u.a | ______

UU-* ’ -■• a ' ■ ' , u n i . . O^Jt^jt^RUi l i f t : 0 Sf .:>.v2i

. » ■* - ** t * __ ■ . :.CtO .. , ■ . X f . *: ‘ •"• i ' ■ • , ! . -♦ r* - • rf H ' -.I' !

. - - - 4 The Great Western Road.

19th inst. In this manner the first available route to -the newly discovered western districts was officially opened, it was an event far reaching in its effects,afid as the years pro­ gressed, the immense gain to the country at large,became more and more apparent, vast areas of magnificent grazing ground became available, the rich lands were rapidly peopled by a stur­ dy and industrious race,whose descendants still reside,in some cases,in the very homes built by their progenitors,and on the lands reclaimed from the wild bush by some of Australia s most worthy sons. The foregoing pa&es will deal exhamstively with the history of this great road,from its inception,down to the present day,and numerous illustrations,specially taken along the mountain route,will be used in order to show something of the present day conditions of what must always be regarded as the most important,and the most historic highway in Australia.

i;-rank Walker ,F,R.a .H.£ 12 [blank]

Oita 0'^. fi-Jiitfi .fiJ.ci/iX■£JtofiiJL. —vi-• -.—- - - .— ' -■ ^ ...... ••o\t . D*:.-- **: g>j >«1 . Li'.;, : .. .. a-., -i*- .... us. -■•••

M -jTl. syaiawrtiBL .■/;< lLU';;: ?:■■. ‘ u smi SfLJlzui* ...... ,......

*

. i

...

- The Great Western Road 5

WILLIAM COX The First Koaamaker in Australia

WILLIAM 0 OX, late of ularendon,Ii.S.W. ,was born at \,imbourne minster,Dorset,England,on December 19th,1764j. he was the second son and fourth child of Robert Cox,and was educated at Q,ueen Elizabeth’s Grammar School. ne married Ke- becca Upjohn,of Bristol,in I789,at the age of 25. Re was a man of good estate,and served in the Wilts Militia,in the service J where the country geitleman showed both his will and ability to serve his country. During the French War he got a taste of j the anxifcies of hostility,but he longed for action,and on July: 8th,1795,at the age of 51,he received his commission as ensign^ in the 117th Foot. A year after k0une 20th,1795),he exchanged into the 6bth .root,and on February 17th,1797,was made lieuten ant. But there came a woful time of peace,and his opportunity for war was not. On September 28th,1798,he was appointed pay­ master, and was ordered to work nar’oour. In that year the famous ■98-of song and story,Ireland was in a ferment. Rebellion had raised its head,and the two races,English and Irish,were at deadly enmity. The rebels were being deported to "Botany aay", and Lieutenant cox was ordered to await the filling up of the transport "Minerva" iwuptain Salkeld) .with rebels,and take thei^ to Australia. Re took with him to cork,Lieutenant Maundrell,of N.S.Wales corps,and 50 men of the rank and file,and there he waited for the ship s complement of rebels who were being ex ~ patriated for doing what they held to be a stern and holy dmty. On January 11th,1800,the good ship "Min­ erva" dropped anchor in Sydney Harbour,after a voyage of nearljj five months. They left Cork Harbour on August 24th,1799,and arrived in January,1800. William Cox at once settled on the larid and in a very short space of time had acquired some very consicj erable properties,on which his flocks and herds developed with wonderful rapidity. Mr Cox laid the foundation of one of the finest flocks of Saxony merinos in Australia,and the industry has been in the family ever since. Within a very few years he possessed an ideal home at Clarendon,near Windsor,and here somej of his numerous family were born. The modientous discovery of a passage over! the mountains by Blaxland,Lawson and Wentworth,in 1813, led the Governor to determine to construct a road along their tracks,^ the likliest man to superintend the work was the chief magistrate of the district,Mr william uox,of Clarendon. Re had already been responsible for the construction of the road from Parramatta to 3nru,and with his characteristic activity he at once set about the preparations of this great work. William Cox died at clarendon,on Larch J.btn,loc7,a^ed 72 years,and is'buried in St Matthew’s churchyard Windsor. i

Mil*?, . ,uy IT., V $ ,... ,vi,_ ;.it- V tfttS .'. riv> js .wiv . jj , & V . J 4 i I S * $j| £>s .-U^i :• 4. v . .. jjJ|i i.i ■' f- ' , > .. '. , p /,.... . : i>'V ... '

.

ib m / I hi ".,C l.1 ,.j 0 0 ; .• , btrc ? C;I ,.iU, \i*-,«■: ot, p : •: ... ': .T.t ..

J &A '.:■:■■■ . . r.

■ ?£ •% C'.It

* ? ' 2>*/f ift-H VF<£l }J&5 fl 3rJ If

. r tt,~ —r-jsj o - » i . - -- 1- 6 The Great Western Road

HOW THL FIRST ROAD WAS MADE . To obtain an adequate idea of how this great engineering feat was accomplished,there is left to us an im­ perishable record in the shape of William Oox's Diary,contained m a volume of Memoirs,published by & member of the family,in 1901,one hundred and one years from the date when the founder of the family landed on these shores. Cox was a careful and methodical man,and the record of his daily progress,ever westward,whilst strugg­ ling against fearful odds,in the shape of wild and ragged country,makes inspiring reading, iiis workers were convicts, carefully chosen,it is true,with the promise of suitable re­ wards, if they performed their part in the work,and when it is remembered that in those early times the facilities for effici­ ent road making were of the most primitive character,and the country about the worst that could have been possibly selected for this purpose,the wonder is not so much that he was able to successfully accomplish his task,but that he actually completed his task in the incredibly short period of six months. His Journal begins at the date uuly 7,lbli when he records a conversation with Governor ^cquarie relative to the proposed work,the entry concluding with the words,"! to$k leave of him this day". The "turning of the first soa" took place on July 18,near the Nepean river,the simple record read ing,.Began work at 10 a.m.to make a pass across the Ne~ “pean Riverj the banks very steep on the east side". Just a nundred years later the first centenary of this important event was celebrated at Penrith,and a suitable memorial marks the spot where the workmen began their difficult undertaking. The next day the road was finished down the right D a n k of the rive^ and in the afternoon operations were oegun on Emu Plains. Two or three days later we are informed that "good progress was being made on the Plains,and this day's record gives the account of the first accident,when one of the men was hurt through the.; limb of a tree falling on him. Next day he writes "....examine- "ed the ground leading from nmu Plains,and fixed on the spot tp "cross the creek,as well as one to begin ascending the mountain" uox followed very closely in blaxlands ] tracks,as the latter observes in his own Journal,published after the road was made,that the new road was almso identical with the path that he and his companions had made in lfalS. On July 26 the road party were beginning to work up the mountain,the ; ascent being very steep,the soil chiefly iough and stony,and the timber mostly ironbark. fclox had by this time established aj depot on the summit of the first range,which he stated,was five and three-quarter miles from the river. On August 5rd he had cleared the road to the entrance to a thick brush,tfo and ; a half miles ahead. The next day the depot was removed to seven and a half miles forward,the men being at work in a very thick . cHtr: \t t wr .. . c\ t : :: , „ : ; ■„ .. x j a n i ; boni:r;j-ro3 3 ^ocfw ll r£7 Ifc etf; E T h - i * * : e j c j s d a L i

, ■.sliai :b » b m I" :u ?6i.. [ U ’ prn^tmr?. j.,aoH|tjfiy.rn fe e X rt-r #5- « ’« »y; --::U • $*ifx|B' -v 70, e«u .r.. ' x a& .a 10 l”:ooe-i sd; r-’»- ;;*i firm 6i i w ‘^; FtjrxrOgr bit., .:.t. ":c IrTxSiri r»'il*gj§ _:i.:; ' xIq,arri a0..amx\iit&sox> art *|fr asinrnq adr dcr.tir jr*' .. ' *'•' . . t o . ' . • . t t > -xrr: yof;..- tojrlt *■-•» -j-.nirr - tr:; •- , : * .. ..-. 31.. ..

. : ox o.Cc;a .. til e:.. j *riJ dir r o; --. • =,t ■ 41 3 2 . . vel \£ List* fro ft 9ti~$f3d& M ~ , Ttw t ■ Bt't-ztBt t^vvm^rtZ; rX&SWJSL’Z xxa 'to ooi'xac I'jons $|d l 5«'xa.ai ed: ax %'»*« aid i ' i r - . C >■<>« •••£*» -rti.-et: Imrw v u %£# ■-_ avi^ nor; &i i'«:ycau -^. xovo' i x . o i J a a r i e v .00 * th o rn 3d : *> » ^oofr i'S siiM rffx# V, -.v ’.fj-'-Q tt '.rrrx. "rep- ' i;20ca*i“ 9 _ r : >■!•>&£ '--j# jl'.i'.. 0£l. .: irr. ,;i TO .- x -,)&£ x y I‘* 41* y .-»• • , .• -i\. 'jSKjt-. ' -''it- :•£ •'jiT. C O « 0* i q . OH ©rfJ- ii siUr. !>/ . 1 $& ji'iov- ;ifc , r', ^jr/. 4- d’-SCi* i -:■■ ■; rj - j.fz ■--rf-t- :?.r : >rtyrf~ r i r c -

S i i W l t o ’W K 3irrd- lo ed* a x*^y •i*a,sl>mm

b d . ,2 t / tXr;.oi.; 15 .tif s e^t- ' ‘ io: 1 i3Vi:*x ed4 ta jJftau .-d?v.kc (.; $- -vo .&^4ai i - t~. b s o * t x a r

p w 1 . s r j :-~ i;. r / ?c. ftTi'jVv n c. *••-«. s>r ' r. edJ -si j U'.iV; '> Dfj ■ X & * i ' V, . ; J 3 / ; *10 itn^obiA *>('} &byz: h’-tot 3 '^.<70 ... 1' .. .rr/al z : . .i.u : - dijjartrfJ a«w -ar ©d - 0 S’lifv . ’rii-l Srfs '1« • f m / U B x a ztii'M fc - vp& J r .- .. rxxl. - to 6;X-> x

- ... s en; , -7/0 . on. o . -.,-u.. *•._ =. . x 3 . be. ' B B V , ■ -x ^ . :-X... .7,6 ...... i i i t -J .^..-&9*irLS i>..* avil ■ -wJ-,dar;x. :'xi: x -i 0 . o?xxx.: ;..:x 0 ■■■■■ .. . . - i * d a : D X\j- £ 'x a v -3 f i x ; x o . « n .;,-.:xac r.a f & , . o'! x e _ ;. 'r i ;,.x The Great Western Road 7

troublesome bush”. For the next two days the same condiions pre­ vailed,but fair progress was made as on the evening of August 6 uox states that "the people all moved forward to the end of nine miles”. On August 27th,sixteen miles of road had been completed, when the working party came to "a high mountain”. 'rh i s would be the range of hills immediately beyond the present Linden station, and which slaxland described in his Sournalas the second ridge of the mountains”. Two days later operations were commenced on the mountain with all available hands. An immense quantity of rock had to be removed,Doth "in going up the mountain and on the pass leading to the Dluff on the west or it", uox s engin- . eer-ing skill was put to the fullest use at this stage of the work,as instead of winding round the bluff to the east of the ridge he decided to make a road across the valley by means of a causeway. This causeway,or "bridge" as uox called it absorbed the labour of the greater portion of his working party for sev­ eral days. By September 12th the ^bridge" was completed,the dimensions given being,bO feet l^ng,15ft wade at one end,and lid feet wide at the other,35ft of it being planked,and the remain­ der filled up with stones. Cox remarks that the "bricge and pass "have cost me the labour of 12 men for three weeks....it is now "complete- a strong,solid bridge,ana will,I ’na v e no doubt be "rekoned a good-looking one by travellers that pass through the "mountains”. This is the first bridge erected west of i^mu Plain's, and it is a strange circumstance that no subsequent road-makers in this vicinity ever mentioned the work. The railway ^epartmenjt when constructing the great embankment a few yards west of Lin­ den station,must have destroyed the old structure,as the embank­ ment bisects the original site. In later years,that is between 1614 - 1850,some buildings were erected at about the centre of j the bridge,one being known as the "Toll liar Inn”. A toll gate also existed at the western end. The mention of "Oaley s pile”,shows that the working party were now in the vicinity of Linden,and viaxtoro to this locality ,anc. ivs irmueuiate neignoourhood will be able to inspect portions of Cox's road,which crosses the present road beyond linden,and continuing on the southern side,turns almost due west in the direction of Woodford. By September 13th,twenty-one miles of road had been completed,but the next five miles through very rough and rocky ground took a further eleven days. The 26th mile brought _ them to the ”foot of a steep mountain",which may be identified as the high ridge beyond Lawson,near the present 57th mile post. The second depot,which was erected almost on the site of the old HV«eatherboard Inn”,at Wentworth Tails,was com­ pleted on October toth. excellent progress was now made as v»e learn from Cox's Journal tnat 3& miles had been completed by oeptember 23. One of the party was sent forward to examine the country beyond,and returned with the information that the mountain (I-ount York),was nearly half-a -mile down,and that it ! ? [VI V a j

' until- ‘to.M t Wfi Ovf '-moi: t.C^rs sl.^^eq priJ" .tarlS &•-»*tz

oj/ji;-i Jkioi, :*3 a?- ani irn « i : : ’i r ;■;* ' . 1. •>

Oitl a o;Vf a ■• £■&- ■ ■■■ an: u i ; ; | _ M ^ ; ilL-L1-- -■5:-

**vocs ‘30; ,j‘:t , , .t'i -0 ' ~ri 'Vo « TLS-:r0t : . 0 ?i' «*riJ s»# W i: *s . 5rt;qsa ,: .1 on ,;. f. ■>>£

- . ion ;. 1 • J...... • a-, s : -. - . .; .

B’UKii - 3 ' ... -tt-r ... ■: ■? ^ J’Xi©; 3" ;j?„ ■•- .-ilia t . i: ..... 9-' «= ~

t'.:o r

ifii' .~ - -F-7m>tr* w r r w ■ m o r r -s— .— -, e*-• if.- - n-' -iff.. .. :i

. .

', y-j*: S'trrJx- ■ r^rrr— •*'" "' •* ; • "- ifet/o? v-*?v . U;;o-:u:L vi i >:» ---- g±x~~:— "Offo--riir^r -*<’'• *efi:e -- - -r-b-i

I

' n io r o ' "BIRIf'ftrjrA'ir*" - t r f ^ S r ^ ifrrfrrr ->d» • -VftSW SC. tli-- 1— ---- *•**•— “ The Great Western Road

seemed scarcely possible to make a road down,and that there were no facilities for making a good descent to the north. Forty-two miles of road had been completed by September £S, most of the last few miles being constructed amidst constant rain. On November 3rd,we have a vivid descrip­ tion of the characteristics of the country in and around the four mile ridge which terminates at Mount York. The difficulty of constructing a road down its precipitous sides was most apparent,but Cox was not the man to be dismayed by tasks of this description,and after a close examination he at last de­ cides upon the place at which to commence the descent,which was begun on November 7th. This undertaking v,as ae£ not com­ pleted until December 6th,but in the meantime,some of the work­ ing party were employed in constructing the road on the lower levels,though the pass down the mountain occupied exactly 24 days before it was prounced fit to travel upon. Cox was invariably a kind master to his men,but I in the entry for December Sth,he writes several of the "men appear to be inclined to give in and shirk work,the great- "er part of whoqi,in my o*inion,are quite as well as myself.Gave "them a reproof in earnest.which I expect will make them well "by to-morrow". The "reproof in earnest" evidently partook of the nature of the usual means adopted in these times when in­ fraction of discipline threatened,and no doubt was effectual,as we hear no more of the incident. wThe road was now completed as far as Mount Blax- land.and the Cox river had been crossed by means of a fairly substantial bridge,the remains of which existed up to a few years ago,and even yet some traces of the work raajs still be found,a little to the right of the present bridge. From this portion of the Diary until it ends abruptly on January 7th,the record gives an interesting des­ cription _of_the progress of the work,the bridges built,the con­ tinued difficulties Presented by the rough nature of the ground and the hilly conditions which almost universally prevailed.The complete road was finished ^n January 14th,1815,its terminal point being the flagstaff,opposite the principal house in the infant settlement at,what is now known as Kelso. The official opening of the road by Governor Macquarie and party in April of the same year will be dealt with in its turn. ■V,

v;v ■: ■: ■■•rO ■ -- .. .. £»- —ii— -i .

"*o j ')•: a v n ...I: :el- ■' 5 - y ■ * ■■■ '■«- =' S1 •' s'": ■ ‘.Vi : '• -•-■■• •■' ; - i Ju *ti iLfe'i.. .-f >'|a aii-'j-J: 1 ;t*. .. 0$ 5..... I- • ■' JcJ-U oti u: i'jj. • - ..

.

: -rXiOi.:- ;Ll^:. it '■ ■'-■■■ ■ ■*- .... ' ■ .. . C , - : i > :■. i i - : . ; 34. * -• , ^ - a; - > I u-r...... » j ■ mi ■ ■ -

; . _ :n . .£...... - ■ • - .. iroxiJ ...... liv/ H ! --j .

.

- ' ; /... 74 - ' . a .

- r ,0 I ’ r ; . : . . . v ': ':ti sc I ,.-: > ■- •- •• - • ' ■ ■ * ri f.-‘ ,.cf a.;. --£/> ■

l ^ r n e l | r i ; H I, Hf IT \ x&. - '-f.. n 3±n« s ^ v, -■^ *j••. ■ 2-1

The termination* of Cox's Hoed,from various authorities KB«KK>Uk«UaB*BaM Cox»t J&urnali- Ut-tid completed January L ist,lol5, (vide Macquarie's letter,*^ 10 e.I. The Governor encamped on tho southsrn bank of tho fcaoquarle Kiver,and on Sunday,7th iaay,fixed on a sits suitable for the erection of e town..... to »»hlch he gave the none o f Bathurst. • .. . . " IN H7x. In •numerating the various atages,the Governor gives lv% miles from tho Gom^beli hlver (7th stagel to the site of the future town, i.e. the flags toff This measurement ends In the vicinity of Holy Trinity Church,Kelso.

Iflftlvr AatrlU’ s Clary 4p* c&) .and the remainder of the party...... dres u* In lin e ..* ,..a n d advanced in this order towards tho huts situated on ,0 little rising £X&&fc(on the banks of the riv er" (The only risin g ground on the southern sldeof the river Is close to holy- l'fln lty Church,flat ground Intervening between tho Church and the river, ‘ihe old road Is still vis- Ible, forming, la ter on, tho main street of the first town of Bathurst,one or two venerable buildings,almost In ruins, a tending en tho Kargin. There were between 60 &nd 70 houses on this site in 1855. F.W. J Lowin’ s drawing,of the "Bathurst Pie Ins'* reproduced on 36 of A ntllls Clary,shows no build­ ings hhL-tavar.cnd Is taken frXTa a s*ct at or near *elsc looking west,*1th the river In the middle distance. , ljw£7) *he s, at which was chosen fo r the Governor s large tent was u*on i.rounc.about~threa hundred yards free, the man's huts. A smal„ tent sas placed on each side with a clear space in front,u*on which e s il o 1 1 flagstaff *tas erected.^his was a most suitable spot fo r a town, coxaaanding a vie* of the surrounding country for a considerable extent” +M, SWL.M. These were evidently plaoed elwse to the river,w hich is about three hundred yards,at the nearest point from the Church at Kelso.(SW (bi At no other spot in this vicinity c&n a better view of the surrounding country be obfftained. (FWI. (pp 38>. * ...... future church...? Theee words are *rovhetlc. holy T rinity Church must stand a linos t on the spot where the Governor s tent was * laced. It must also be remembered that a previous building,used as a church,occupied the site,and may have been so placed there to •ommemoiete the first service held in the Bathurst district,Sunday 7th, Hate. Ant il l gives the distance fro® Cwm*- beli river to Bathurst, (Kelso) ,as 11 miles. Ccx aukes the distance,10».

The Great Western rioad

THE BOHASCE OP THE WESTERN house, built by the prisoners, of wood; ROAD—CAFTAIH BUI iI j'S A D M IN - in fact, both camps, at the Hollow and XSTIfcATION. — CONC-ERNING THE Blackheath. were wooden buildings, and PIX.GRXM INN. which were no doubt removed after the breaking up of the camps. In boith I continue Mr. R. S. Raymond’s let­ J camps the prisoners and soldiers’ quar- ter (see “Truth”, 5.6.’21):—“My ! ters were, visible* and built after the grandfather held the position of captain same pattern: a large dining or living in the Seaforth Highland “I enclose a photograph taken in * * * August last, which shows Mrs. Raymond (aged 90), Mrs. Williamson (aged 76), Concerning the Pilgrim Inn on Lap- two daughters, two grandsons, one great- stone Hill, many times mentioned in granddaughter. and two great-grand­ these columns. Mr. James C. Frost, of children of Col. Bull” . Main-road, Thirroui (see “Truth” • — • 25.4.20), wrote me 26.4.20, but his let­ In a further ‘ communication. Mr. ter was mislaid amongst the piles of Robert S. Raymond says:— “My mother’s letters that reach me. Mr. Frost is remembrance of Twenty Mile Hollow is a Penrith native, or very nearly so, not good, &s she was there only a short and. if he is still about, which I sin­ time, she spending the period the fam­ cerely hope he is, 87 years of age. The ily lived there at Wrollongong. being letter is as follows:—“Just a line in educated with her cousin of the same an sw er to y o v tt letter, wftich I received age. that farfttty living there, and with on the 26 ."4.20, also thanking you for better opportunity for education, but; the publication of my previous letter, afterwards returning with the same; which I read in ‘Truth’ 25.4.20. In cousin, to her own family, who vervi reference to the original Pilgrim Inn on shortly afterwards removed to Black-; the top of Lapstone Hill, the original h eath. Pilgrim Inn is still standing on the “Her remembrance of the house at. i right hand [sic] pide of the Bathurst- Twenty Mile Hellow [ n o w W o o d fo rd ] road, but I am quite unable to say who w as a storfte house, the bu ildin g situated was the owner. The place that has a little off the road,, but near enough been demolished was the second place standing on the front verandah to see to be built, and was built by Mr. people travelling along It,. and recog­ Wascoe, which originally stood on the* nised. She was 13 years of age at the left hand side of the road [sic]. I tim e, which w ou ld m ake the year 1844 was always led to believe that the old when the family lived there, but they original Pilgrim Inn was built by con­ removed shortly after her return home, to vict labor and the second place Mr. Blackheath. where the family lived in a Wascoe had erected himself. These» - ••------

. 10 The Great Western Road

vere the only two places which stood all. These two days were spent in n the top of La.l>stone Hill. The old cooking and eating. A most danger­ riginal Pilgrim Inn was standing there ous bit of road going to Hartley, called 5 years ago to my knowledge. I was Soldiers* Pinch, father had deviated to lien 10 years o f a g e ; it w as not k ept the other side t>f the hill, m aking a <.s a public-honse at that time. Mr. gentle slope all along instead of the 'dm Ellison was the first man to open ‘Pinch’. The coach drivers, I believe, t as' an hotel; then some time later called it Bull’s Bun. Don'-t forget fr. Wascoe was the second licensee that our dear father and mother cele­ intil such time as he went into the brated the 71st anniversary of their iew place, and that ended the career of wedding day before dear father passed he original Piigrim Inn as an hotel. away”. (Mrs. Raymond celebrated I would be very pleased to give you any her 90th birthday in April last.) further information concerning old times within my knowledge at any * • • future date” . In years gone by I knew Billy * * * O’Neill, the Irish com'edian, who came to Australia soon after the American Civil This, I am afraid, makes the Pilgrim War ended. He was at the famous bat­ Inn question more complicated. In tle of Bull’s Run, and I asked him if 1854 M r. T hom as E llison had a five- he were one of those that ran. He acre grant at the toll bar, 17-Mile Hol­ promptly replied, rtBegorra, tihose that low, now Linden, where I understand did not run are there still” . Poor Billy’s there had been an inn which was de- bones are in the Melbourne General j stroyed by fire. I think the late Mr. C em etery. i William Pri.tch'ard owned the property • • • j afterwards and occupied as a private The liouae occupied by Captain Bull [residence the house now overlooking 17- on his taking up command at Twenty | Mile H ollow . Mile Hollow, and where his son, Mr. Frederick E. Bull, of Bankstown, was bom, still stands in excellent preserva­ tion, and now known as The Woodford s', t. iy Academy, the property of Mr. J. F. Macmanamy, B.A., well known as a ; successful teacher in scholastic circles, THE BOMAE'CE OP THE OBEAT j The house has been largely added to W 2 SIEBH-ROAD, CONTINUED— ON since Captain Bull had his residence SHE MOUNTAINS IN THE PORTISS th'ere. It was a prosperous inn in the — CAPT. BCIL'B COMMAND— JAMES early fifties, when the Great Western road was the highway to the Turon and OATIiSY, FIONEEE, CI.CCK MAEE 3 Bathurst goldfields. Lat'er on We sihall ihave the .story of this historic house. I Concerning Captain Bull and his * • • i Blue Mountain command, I resume (Mrs. Williamson’s letter (see “Truth'’ Mr. Robert Samuel Raymond, second ;29.5.21): “There was one prisoner at; son of Mrs. Raymond, who was known : Blackheath 'who refused to work. ; as Miss Katie Bull at the time referred to. and grandson of Colonel Bull, also ‘ Father gave him seven days’ solitary i confinement, and though father talked afforded me a good deal of interesting information: Sir Charles Fitzroy. j kindly to him it was no use; he still Governor of . Lady j refused to work, so after another | Mary Fitzroy, Colonel Mundy and E. Deas- j seven days’ confinement father wrote Thomson,. made a tour of the West in j down to Sydney and asked to have the 1845, and had lunchieon with Captain | man sent to Cockatoo Island [you see Bull at Blackheath. In this 'connec­ | Cockatoo was a place of note in the tion Mrs. Raymond writes:— “My mother | forties], as he was setting such a bad remembers the visit of Sir Charles Fitz­ | example to the other prisoners. That roy. who was accompanied by Lady I man went awray blessing father. As Mary, Colonel Mundy, Deas-Thomson I he passed our house he kept calling and George Fitzroy”. They lunched | out, ‘You are a good little gentleman with her parents and afterwards visited j and only did your duty. God bless Govett’s Leap, Sir Charles riding one ' you and all your young family*. An- of the boys’ ponies, but Lady Mary did I other thing perhaps you do not know, not care to trust herself on a pony and j After father went up and took charge. spent the time reclining on a sofa, and I any person who died he had properly made friends with young Frederick buried, grave dug, reading the burial fmem., he that "“was born at Twenty service himself. It had never been Mile Hollow, and is now 75 years of : done before his time. He also held age.] It may give you some idea of services for soldiers and prisoners her personality in describing a- scene. every Sunday morning at 9 o’clock; at The little fellow sat on the floor beside eleven service for the family and ser­ i j her. playing with her chatelaine, and vants; in the afternoon Sunday School : sucking his thumb. Lady Mary took up for the soldiers’ children. Why he the scissors attached to the chatelaine did this was on account of the clergy­ and proposed to cut the thumb off; the man coming so seldom, only once in little one answered: "No, no, aga mam- six months. On Christmas Bay father mie!” Lady Mary also saw that Mrs. gave the prisoners a bullock, with the Bull was inconvenienced for W’ant of a understanding that there was to be no maid, and offered * Maria Haslam, who quarrelling nor any complaints what- was then at a training institution "or jever. If their conduct was good they servant girls and was intended for ser­ would have Boxing Day as well, and vice wit^i her, and the girl turned out all the time he lived there the prison- very satisfactory, and stayed the fdH |ers had the two days; no complaints at term in the Bull family. All the family thought very kindly of Lady Mary. She 2.£ [blank]*

v - - The Great Western Road

was rather tall ami stout, with a very pleasing manner, though not a hand­ and, as Captain mill never had a man some woman. The party left that day, whipped, the stonf in question could continuing their Journey to Bathurst, not have, been put to the use sug­ and they were to stay with Sir. William gested by the legend. To my mind the Lawson [the explorer] at Macquarie stone mentioned was the site of a j Plains for three days. Captain andsMrs. blacksmith’s forge, but we will come | Bull were also invited to join in the to that presently. I festivities. * * * | • . As I have said. Captain Bull was on these h ills from 1S42 to 1848. In 1843 we got a Parliament, a mixed chamber, of Government officials, nominees and electives, there being 6 ON THE GREAT WESTERN ROAD— official members, G nominee members, and 24 electives. Amongst those who A LAND MASK—BULL’S CAMP— lvad seats in that House were W. C. A STORY OT THE ROAJJ-I/IAKIJTO Wentworth, Dr, Bland, W. H. Suttor, GANGS — WHAT ‘‘TRADITION” senr., ot Bathurst, Robert Lowe, DOES FOR HISTORY — SOME Charles Cowper, Dr. Lang, Sir Thomas MOUNTAIN’ LEGENDS. Mitchell, Dr. Nicholson, Roger Therry, John Blaxland and many of similar temperament and standing. Some of I have to thank many correspond­ these were constant' travellers between ents for letters and telegrams con­ the metropolis and the country, not veying good wishes on having passed flying by express train as to-day, but the- 81st mile post on Life’s Highway. ■In their own horse-drawn gigs and ' * * * coaches. They must have daily passed When-Mr. Sydney Cunynghame made the gangs of road-makers under Cap­ his first trip over the Blue Mountains tain Bull, and it may fairly be asked with his unoies. Charles and James would it be possible for the Captain Whalan, of Oberon (see "Truth” to so brutally ill-use his helpless 16V5/’ 2I), in the year 1841, they p ass­ charges as tradition has debited him ed a landmark on the Bat hurst-road with? Were he so guilty, you very soon mileage 50, then known as IS Milo would hear of some of the Australian Hollow; to-day as Bull’s Camp, patriots I have named taking Par' and why so named? Well, it was this Ijamentary action to bring him to book. >.ay. in. i.icre cv.uo to Sydney With Parliamentary representation with the 9»th Regiment. Captain J. even in a limited degree, the old dark H. N. Bull. who was Immediately de­ 3ayS of penal history had passed away tailed for duty with 50 non-coms and fo r e v e r . privates of his regiment. to take s * * charge of a road-making gang, camped When I first heard of Captain Bull V, IS Mile Hollow, in which charge and Bull’s Camp, the site of which, he succeeded Captain Day, who went by the way, I am overlooking as X *vith the B arney expedition to P ort ' write, I little thought that I knew 'urtis to found a new settlement, him, not certainly when he was in which did not then become "founded” . command on the Mountains, but in Captain Bull camped with his family the early sixties in Victoria, where it the spot now known as Bull’s Camp, he was a Captain of Volunteers, and while a house was being built for I a full private 'in one of the com­ his accommodation at 'Blackheath, so panies. Captain Bull was the second named by Governor Macquarie on his son of Colonel Bull, a Companion of trip over the Mountains in 1S15. Cap­ the Bath, a Knight of Hanover, who tain Bull was appointed a magistrate had served in the Peninsular and and engineer in charge of the Great . Waterloo campaigns, in the Royal Western Road from the River Nepean Horse Artillery. Our Captain Bull was to Bathurst. The headquarters of the born in the centre of Ireland in the road gang was at Blackheath. a very year 1S06; he entered the Military healthy locality, and somew’liat chilly College at Sandhurst in 1820; he re­ in winter. Captain Bull was on these ceived his first commission iiN the hills fronj 1842 to 1848. ‘and we have 78th Highlanders in April 1825: he heard mjeny legends and* 'traditions purchased his lieutenancy in June. concerning him and his treatment of 1826, and was for two years on the the helpless convict wretches under staff of the Quartermaster-G-eneral’s his command We have heard of Cap­ Department in Kandy, which sweetly- tain Bull’s bath cut in solid rock, and named town w’as at one time the Captain Bull’s armchair also cut in capital of the island of Ceylon, w'here the solid rock, in which the Captain Bishop Heber has told us “The spicy used to recline, “monarch of all he breezes blow’’. In October, ,1838, Lieut­ surveyed”. The “bath” and “the enant Bull obtained his captaincy, and chair” have been wiped out by the in ■ 1840 .was appointed Deputy-Judge railway line. It has been said also, and Advocate of the Northern District of by some alleged historians. I am sorry England. In January. lS4t2. te exchang­ to say. that a certain corrugated stone ed into the 99th, commanded by Colon­ near Linden was used as a "sure- el Despard, who. while occupying the footing” for the (logger when plying old. George-street Barracks in Sydney, his dreadful office; it w'as said, also, •earned th e sobriqu ent of. “ K eep oft that certain "dug-outs” were punish­ the grass Despard” from the fact that ment cells for wrong doers. Well, X he wished the green sward in front have the testimony of an eye witness, of the barracks be kept for the use a lady now in her 91st year, who of his family cow. states that the alleged cells of punish­ * m * ment were stone houses for tools The 99th arrived in Sydney in Oc­ and explosives, used in road making. tober. T.842, aijd Captain Bull was ■

T- -Hsr The Great Vestern Road.

ordered to take' charge of a stockade on the Blue Mountains, with a de­ tachment of 50 soldiers; he 1 was, as I have said, appointed magistrate and engineer in charge of the Western THE FIRST KOAD Hoad from Penrith to the City of the Plains. After six years so employed, • ' ‘ -j * he rejoined headquarters, and soon after retired from the service on being promised civil employment; he had TO THE WEST. an appointment at Newcastle, where he supervised the construction of the breakwater from Nobby Island to the m ainland. In O ctober, 1851, on applica­ HUNDRED YEARS TO-DAY tion of the the Government of Vic­ toria. then newly-established on sep­ aration from New South Wa,les, he resigned the Newcastle appointment, and became Commissioner of Crown COX’S HISTORIC WORK. Lands, Magistrate, and Warden at Bendigo. On the famous gold field he met some of his old college mates, who had passed through the Military CELEBRATIONS AT PENRITH School, “Orion” Horne, the poet, amongst them, and without much au­ thority these ex-collegians changed the name Bendigo to Sandhurst. Some Penrith will celebrate to-day the centenary years ago, however, the people re­ ot the commencement of a great work—the turned to their allegiance, and the making of the first road over the mountains. famous old gold town is again known The principal celebrations will be to-morrow, as Bendigo. * * * but there will be certain festivities for the On the Police Magistrate leaving school children to-day. Castlemaine; Captain Bull was in­ It is not exactly the centenary of Penrith structed to perform his duties, which, itself. The site on which Penrith stands had with that of Goldfields Warden, he been to some extent explored within three continued to discharge until Decem­ ber 31, 1869. when he w as placed on years of the arrival of the first settlers In the retired list on account of age, Australia—twenty-five years before the road 63—quite a youth it may be said. was begun—and it was not named Penrith un­ On the formation ,of the Volunteer, til many years after the road was finished. C orps in C astlem aine in I860. he wsfs "What is celebrated to-day and to-morrow is nominated Captain. The Corps consist­ ed of three companies. On September. the centenary of the Great Western road. 3, 1863, he w as prom oted to the rank It was on July 17, 1814—one hundred years of Xiieut-colonel in charge of the Volun­ ago to-day—that William Cox, the retired teer Corps in the northern district, army officer, who had taken up land at Clar­ with headquarters at Castlemaine. re­ endon, and had offered to build this road, maining until the abandonment of the volun teer system . Subsequently he mustered his men at Captain Wood- 'was, for a short time, connected with riff’s farm. near the bank of the the militia, but retired on his rank of Nepean, where the great work was Colonel. (To be resumed next week.) * * * to begin. At 10 the next morning, tools and rations having been issued to the party, the first piece of actual work, the cutting of a pass down the steep bank of the river to the ford, was begun. It is difficult to realise to day that at the time when these men were working on the road which was to take them over the moun­ tains many people in Australia fully be­ lieved that it was leading them part their way towards a great sea. It was known that no sea would be reached for a considerable dis­ tance beyond the end of the road at the Mac­ quarie River, because Evans had been beyond, and had found no sea; but many were con­ vinced that there was a sea at the back of it all. Of course, the road in time showed them their error. The road poured out settlers on to vast inland spaces. The road brought back their wool, and in later times their gold. They had, at one place, to roll their wool bales up it, because the grade was 1 in 4, and load them again at the top. With all its im­ perfections, it was the road that made this country. I______' I •

■ The Great Western Koad.

get a loaded team from the bottom ttf the The road followed almost exactly along the top without the necessity of making several trees that had been marked by the party journeys. It is on record that when the wool which first crossed the mountains. And the teams began to bring the golden fleece to the railway follows generally the track of the seaboard, and the foot of the pass was road. In certain places the old road has long reached, the bales had to be unloaded from been abandoned—is overgrown and barely dis­ the drays, and rolled up the mountain by tinguishable. But for a great part it is still hand. the road to-day. The railway traveller, when in For upwards of 28 years all the traffic to the intervals of his magazine he notices a and from the west passed up and down this road winding beside him up the mountain, mountain, until in 1832 Major (afterwards Sir may well close for a moment that engrossing Thomas) Mitchell constructed the Victoria serial. He is looking on one of the most im­ Pass, and the old road by Mount York was portant works that were ever undertaken in abandoned. Governor Macquarie was so Australia. To-day, perhaps, he will spare a struck with the clever work carried out at thought both for tha work and for the men Mount York that he ordered it to be named who made it. “ Cox’s Pass,” in honour of the man who had devised it. On January 1, 1856, the first bridge, a wooden structure over the Nepean, was opened by Governor Fitzroy, but this stood only until EARLY PENRITH. A ugust, 1857. On the night o f the wreck of the Dunbar a flood came down the rive: and washed away every vestige of the bridge. (BY FBAXK WALKER.) t ■ It is interesting to note that this was the first severe flood since 1809. The company which built the bridge re-erected it, but in The history of Penrith, or, more properly 1860 it was again swept away. The district speaking, of the Nepean River district, be­ then reverted to puntage, and this method gan soon after the foundation of the settle­ of crossing the river remained in vogue until ment at Sydney Cove. No sooner had 1867. There was another flood in 1864, but Governor Phillip founded the colony than he in 1867 the severest visitation in the way of and his officers set about the work, interest­ floods that had ever devastated the district ing and exciting to them, no doubt, of ex­ bccurred, and on this occasion the water ploring the surrounding country. To the reached to where the centre of the town now north the Hawkesbury River was discovered, stands. The punt, of course, was carried but to the westward tho great barrier of the away, and once more the bridge question be­ Blue Mouotains effectually closed the path. gan to agitate the townsfolk. The building Before the actual attempts were made the of the third bridge was accompanied by a task seemed to these early settlers one of succession of misfortunes to the contractor, 1'ttle difficulty. Little did these good people five freshes in the river washing away an think of the arduous task which awaited equal number of coffer dams, which cost them. Captain Tench and Lieutenant Dawes some thousands of pounds. The contractor had both undertaken expeditions in the owing to these misfortunes, was obliged to locality. throw up the contract, but the construction The knowledge of this district increased of the bridge being let to another contractor year by year, but it is a curious reminder of he, not being troubled by floods, completed the state of society in the colony at that the work, and realised a handsome profit on time, when in 1806 Governor Phillip issued the job. an order that “no person whatever, except In the early days bushrangers from the moun­ officers, do at any time resort across the tains committed occasional robberies around River Nepean on any pretext." As years the district, and it was a fairly common sight went on the country in the vicinity of the to see bodies of townsfolk, “armed to the Nepean began to be settled, and after the teeth,” as one old resident puts it, setting out Blue Mountains had been successfully crossed from Penrith to escort the mail coach over the and settlements formed in the west Penrith worst portion of the range. Horse racing became a place of some importance. Long was a great attraction at Penrith in the good before the name of Penrith was bestowed old times, racing being carried out on the upon the township it received the name of flat now called Hornsey Wood up to 1865, “Evan,”-, and by such appellation was marked many of the best horses in Australia competing on the early maps. How it came to be Descendants of Governor King became large designated in this way is obscure, but a rea­ landowners around Penrith, where some of sonable supposition would be that the Un- the family still possess interests. Governor der-Secretary for the Home Department was King’s widow is buried in old South Creek further honoured by the use of his Christian as well as his surname. i Cemetery, and the district of Kingswood per­ petuates in name the memory of one of our The road over the mountains was begun early Governors. in 1814. To the present day enough of Cox's A bout 5 o ’clo ck on July 6, 1859. the first road down Mount York remains to convince sod of the Penrith railway was turned by Mr. the spectator of the magnitude of the task. R. T. Jamieson, the member for the Nepean,, True, the grade was about 1 in 4, and it in the presence of about 300 spectators. The was almost a matter of impossibility to '6 ZVpWntcl

,

'

*

--,------;----- 4 The Great Western Koad.

line as far as South Creek (now St. Marys) and accustomed to field labour were chosen, was opened on May 1, 1862, the addition to the line being required by the Government and the completed party consisted of thirty to be completed in flve months. The English men; a superintendent, a guide (both free contractors, however, refused to take it up, men, who had crossed the Mountains before but a Mr. Gibbons started the work in the with the surveyor), a storekeeper, a doc­ second week in Jtjne, 1862, the complete line tor, constable, overseer of tools, carpenter, from Sydney to Penrith being opened for blacksmith, miner, two bullock-drivers, 20 traffic on July 7, 1862. For five years the labourers, and a sergeant, corporal, and six terminus remained at Penrith, and until the private soldiers of the Royal Veterans as a railway was continued over the mountains the guard. town was the starting place for the coaches On July 17, all the parties assembled on the. for the west. These were stirring days, and banks of the Nepean, opposite Emu Plains. the sight of the coaches, with their flve- Cox had a caravan for his sleeping berth, horse teams of greys and bays, going at full with a tilt and lockers for small stores and gallop through the town was one worth wit­ baggage. At 5 p.m- the people were as­ nessing. How different to-day are the con­ sembled, and half a week’s ration of bread ditions of travel, seated in an up-to-date rail-i was issued to each. On. Monday, the 18th, way car, compared with the journey in the' a start was made at daylight. Tools and rattling coach, its passengers mostly exposed rations were issued, and at 10 a.m. work be­ to the cold and wet, and the ever-present gan at the east side of the Nepean, cutting chance of their vehicle being held up by "the down the bank, and making a carriage-way gentlemen of the road.” At this time Pen­ across a passable ford to Emu Plains. rith was a busy centre, for not only was it a On Wednesday, all hands crosSed the river. starting point for the coaches and teams I and Cox noted that they were 1 beginning to bound for the west, but it was also the rest­ understand their labour, and to work well. ing place of traffic to and from the metrop­ olis, after the descent or before the ascent I of the mountains UP THE MOUNTAINS. Penrith was proclaimed a municipality in On Tuesday, the 26th, the crossing place 1871, the late Mr. James Riley being the first to the foot of the mountains was finished, Mayor. A few years ago the fair average and the ascent began. Cox's caravan was rental of improved land with buildings there­ removed across the river, and he slept in on in the municipality of Penrith was esti­ the Mountains for the first time. mated at nearly £20,000, the capital value ofi The first labour trouble came now, when all rateable property being set down at Burn, the foreman, objected to receiving £270,000. The first inn erected in the town! orders through the superintendent, and left was in 1831, by Mr. Josephson, and called the party. The others were given an op­ the Governor Gipps Inn. A few relics of the portunity of following him if they wished to old days still exist in and around Penrith, do so, but’ it is not recorded that anyone and there arA many other reminders of past accepted. days scattered about the district. To the On August 3, natives were met with, ani historian this pleasing locality will always the soldiers were distributed among the work­ contain much that is interesting and instruc-j tive. ' ing gangs. On the 9th, when almost ten miles of road had been made, Mr. Evans, the surveyor, arrived,' by direction of the Go­ vernor,'to give information to Mr. Cox rela­ tive to the difficulties he might expect to meet as he penetrated further into the moun­ MAKING THE ROAD. tains. ' Provisions were running out, ani a messenger was sent back to Clarendon, Mr. Cos’s residence, whence he returned with (BY I.L .) a side of beef, 60 cabbages, and corn, and sugar. From the 11th to the 13th mu'; On the seventeenth day of July, exactly the timber is described as tall, large, and one hundred years ago, William Cox, of thick; a dead tree felled by the party meas- Clarendon, entered upon^ the construction of ured 81 feet to the beginning of the head, the Great Western-road. and a blood tree was found measuring 15 His task was undertaken at the, request of I feet 6 inches round. Governor Macquarie, to whom Cox submit­ i By September 3 the road was completed to ted his plans for approval. .The choice of Caley’s pile of stones, afterwards called his working-party was left to himself. H t Caley’s Repulse, a distance of 17J miles. informed the district constables what sort "The mountain here,” writes Cox, “is little of men he wanted, and directed them to givo else but solid permanent rock, and it will notice to the convicts working with settlers not be possible to make good roads on U in their districts that the number needed without great expense. In bad weather this would be allowed to volunteer, and, if they must be a dreadful wild looking place, anJ behaved to his satisfaction, would be re­ if it was so when Caley was here, I do not warded by emancipation. Well-inclined, hardy I at all wonder at his being appalled and re- men, who had been som e years in the coK>ny, turning.” On the 15th the bridge was com­ pleted all but the hand-rails and battening I of the planks. It was 80 feet long, 15 feet 24 (jplainWl

* -

f

*

», i -—------

u i- .'.- .....54V .... f. The Great Western Road.

wide at one end, and 12 at the other, 35 tain to the gully below. This rock would feet of it was planked, the remainder filled I have cost me at least 101b of powder to have Op solid with stone. “It is now com­ blown it to pieces, besides much labour.” pleted,” writes the road-maker, “a strong and On the 2Stb the stonemasons completed solid job, and will, I dare say, he also reck­ work on the rock in the way of the road oned a good looking one by travellers. The down a little below the bridge. They got a labour < performed there cost me 12 men for tree 55ft long and 9ft in circumference from three weeks, during which time they worked the woods into its place as a side-piece be­ low the bridge. Thi6 was the last needed for hard and cheerfully.” this pieee of fvork. The descent to the plains THE ABYSS IN THE PATH. was now accomplished, and the roadmaker’s . At the 39th mile difficulty was met with. herculean task almost fulfilled- A general On the end of the mountain being reached order of Junk 1815, states: “The road sud­ ‘ the descent proved to be Ion* an- astrcmely denly terminates in nearly a perpendicular 'steep. Examination for several miles along precipice ot 676ft high. . . . The labour the ridge in cither direction did not discover here undergone, and the difficulties sur­ any more favourable prospect. Every man. mounted,’. caii only be appreciated by those overseers, do; tors, and carpenters included, who view this scene. In order to perpetuate was now set to road-making, in the hope ot the memory of Mr. Cox’s services, the Go­ getting forward quickly, and discovering a vernor. deemjfcd.it a tribute justly due to him practicable route. On November" 3 Mr. Cox to give his name to this grand and extraor- went forward with Messrs. Lewis and Tyo to i dinary pasB, and he accordingly called it survey the end of the ridge, and found it I Cox’s Pass.” much more difficult work than he had ex­ j The road, was completed on January 21, pected. “It commences,” he reported, 'by i 1815, and in A p ril the G overnor and Mrs. going down a steep pass between immense j Macquarie set out to drive across the moun­ large single rocks, when it opens with a tains. En route the Governor named the tremendous gully exactly In the front; you King’s Table Land, the Prince Regent Glen, here turn to the left, and it is so very steep Pitt’s Amphitheatre, Cox’s Pass, Mount York, that you are in great danger of tumbling the Vale of Clwydd, and Cox’s River. Afte.- down- . . . I doubt whether it is possible nine days’ journey the party reached the to make a road that a carriage can ever get plains soon to be known as Bathurst Plains, up the mountain again if it goes down. It is and encamped on the bank of the Macquarie a great drawback to this fine new country River. Here the Governor remained for a that such an obstacle should exist; in fact, week. On Sunday, May 7, he fixed on a site it staggers me to know how I am to make a suitable for the erection of a town, and gave road down at all.” To close this day he re-j it the name of Bathurst, in honour of th« moved all hands to 45J miles, put up thel Secretary of State for the Colonies. torse for the, smith, to get all the tools ready | to work on "the herculean mountain,” and issued to each man a gill of spirits. Next day he sent three men out to search TWO PENRITH PIONEERS. for a better passage, offering a r.eward for success, but they also returned disappointed. (BY JAMES H. WATSON.) Six pikes were made, and mounted for self- defence against natives. On the -9th the whole party Vas ordered forward to the end WILLIAM COX. of the mountain. The weather had be?n very William Cox, who voluntarily undertook to wet, but here the rocks were so lofty an! superintend the construction of a road as undermined that the men could sleep' dry and j blazed by Evans, the surveyor, was a m^n keep their bedding the same, a comfort that who lived to overcome obstacles, and the had been denied them for a fortnight back. story of his life is one of strenuous work, en­ (Thero is a cave at Mount Victoria still gaged in and accomplished. Born of a good known as Cox’s Cave.) The sick list now be­ family in England, he entered the army, and gan to be alarming. after being for a time in the 117th Foot, then 1 On the 14th the road-maker wrote; “Work- in the 68th, afterwards joining the New South ! ing at bridge at the beginning of descent. Wales Corps, he came to Sydney with a de- ( . . . Kept six men at cutting and blow­ tachment of that regiment, arriving in Janu- ^ ing up rocks, two splitting posts and rails, ary, 1800, at which time he would be 36 years i and it is as much as the smith can possibly of age, a married man, his wife and four sons t do to keep their tools in order.” The next coming to New South Wales with him. day; “We attempted to turn out an immense Shortly after arriving he purchased Brush ! large rock that stood on the side of. the Farm, on the Parramatta River, his manager I mountain above the road, but on too danger­ there being , who, for ^ls share ous a situation to leave, by means of pur­ in the troubles in Ireland in 1798, came to chase. Appledore, a sailor, fixed the tackle the colony. As a successful far—.er he next and blocks in a workmanlike manner to bought Clarendon,-built the sidence, which trees, which gave us a very good purchase, stands to this day, although somewhat dilapi­ and by putting all hands to it dated, and devoted himself to agricultural pur­ completed it in a most masterly suits. On the arrival of the 73rd Regiment manner, tearing up trees by the roots j ’ the returned to Eng- as it rolled

- ...... ' ...... ;

1 i ;

.

------* . ^ 4 ------16 iSie Great Western Road.

William Cox among them, and remained, in deviates but a few rods in some places from the colony, where they had established homes the line cleared of the s: all trees and bushes Even in those long-ago days the valley of and marked by us.” the Mulgoa had its .’ ttractions, and in 1810 the first grant of land there was made to Edward Cox, the seVe .th son of the pioneer William, but the first born in Australia. As I THE PENRITH CENTENARY. he would be only 5 years old in 1810, it was in his name only. William Cox had a man­ ager at Mulgoa, James King, who watchcd ] The citizens of Penrith will be obeying the interests of his employer. n wise instinct when to-day and to-morrow they commemorate the hundredth anniver­ CAPTAIN WOODRIFF. sary of the beginning of the road which Cox'b diary tells that on July 17 the party leads from the foot ofi the Blue Mountains left Clarendon at 3 a.m., and arrived at noon to the city of Bathurst. Their festival is at the farm of a certain Captain Woodriff. the logical and chronological sequence to , As Captain Woodriff was closely mixed 'jp the ceremonies which were held at Bathurst with the land on which Penrttn' stanas, the and at Mount Victoria, on the ceu- following facts about him may be interest­ in g :— teuary of the achievements of Blaxland. When Port Phillip was discovered by Acting Lawson, and Wentworth. These three men Lieutenant Murray in the “tinder-box” Lady ] ij&ved a young and isolated colony from Nelson in 1802, Governor King reported the j prospects which threatened it with inter­ discovery to the English Government, who mittent famine, and possibly with extinc­ immediately fitted out an expedition to found tion. Their discovery of a path across the a settlement there. Two vessels were se­ Hlue Mountains proved to the first settlers lected to convey it to the destination. One, that the range of hills which surrounded H.M.S. Calcutta, was commanded by Captain them was not impenetrable, although it had Daniel Woodriff, an officer who, as a midship­ man, had been in these waters before; the defeated- many earlier explorers. The work other vessel was a transpoit and store ship. which they had begun was carried farther Colonel David Collins, Australia’^ first his­ by Mr. Evans under the auspices of an torian, was in command of the settlement active and resourceful Governor. He first party. Collins, being unable to find a suit­ proved that beyond the hills was a wide able site, took his settlers in '.he Ocean, the and fertile tableland, possessing a climate transport, to' the Derwent, and there founded keener and more healthy than that of the Hobart, the Calcutta coming on to Sydney, sea coast. But the tfick o f making the moun­ When in Sydney early in 1804 Captain Daniel tains and the tableland accessible was car­ Woodriff receives from Governor King a grant ried out by William Cox, who, since his of 1000 acres of land, "in a si uation of his I arrival in Australia, had lived in his home own selection;” 600 acres were given by direc­ tions received from Lord Hobarc, and 400 at’WinUsor, at the extremity of the coastal acres at Captain Woodriff’s own request. A 1 settlement. But for his presence in the great portion ot the town of Penrith is on colony Macquarie would have had to wait this grant. a long time before finding a man capable Captain Woodriff’s after-career has nothing of carrying out such a work with such to do with Sew South Wales, but while he njaterials as were at his disposal. It will was fighting French frigates or lingering in be no part of the object of these celebra­ a French prison, his crops were growing on tions to compare the merits of the different his farm on the banks of the Nepean, culti­ pioneers, or the difficulties whicn each of vated with tools and men supplied by the them overcame. They all, we take it, will Government. share in the honours of the pageant to­ It was from this farm that, on the morning morrow. Blaxland and his colleague ac­ of July 18, 1814, just 100 years ago, that W il­ complished what others had often tried tc liam Cox issued forth to commence the road do and failed. They deserve, moreover which for ever Was to be associated with his the credit of original work, for they suc­ name. Where the farm-hou e stood Is now ceeded by substituting methods of theii the site of a modern cottage, just fter High- , street, Penrith is left, and on the roaff. to own for those which former explorers had Mulgoa. The bed of the Nepean has changed copied from English precedents. Evans fol­ since those da^s, and where Emu Island was lowed on their tracks, and adequately car­ is uncertain, but the banks of the river ried out the duty entrusted to him. But were high and steep opposite the ford, and the heroes of this centenary should be had to be cut down to allow the bullock and William Cox. teams and the horses to cross the river. Here it was that the first sod was turned in All through a difficult time Macquarie the municipality of Penrith, which then was proved himself the right man for a crisis. He an undreamed-of institution. Cox followed had the three great qualities, enthusiasm, as close as possible Blaxland’s track, tor the ! confidence in the future, and unbounded latter, writing an uncle in England In 1823, energy which were needed for the develop- says: "The road which has since been made. '

------,.vi - .jr...

- ■

______— ____ The Great Viestern Road. j.

ment of a new settlement. Their product i was a determination not to acquiesce in difficulties which other Governors were, THS ROMANCE OP THE GREAT ready to accept as insuperable. Their re­ WESTERN ROAD — CAPT. BULL, sult is seen throughout New South Wales CDttTBIANDANT ON THE BLUE and Tasmania, which abound in monu­ &OUXTTAINS ZN THE FORTIES. ments of a great roadmaker and town- I continue my reminiscences of Col­ planner. Fortunately Macquarie had be­ onel Bull (see ‘’Truth’' 22/5/21). sides his other gifts the gift of being able Colonel Bull’s connection with the to choose the right rtmn for a given task. Imperial and local forces in Austra­ lia leached close upon forty years. William Cox had shown both on his voyage! I .joined the Volunteer Force in Mel­ from England and in the management ofj bourne in 1862— there w as no, standard his farm, that he could preserve discipline,! m easurem ent then—rand w as present and at the same time secure the goodwill with Colonel Bull at the first encamp­ ment on the Werribee, in April, IS62, of his men. he treated his servants as if and a wet encampment it was; and they were human beings, each with a at a sham fight, at B.ed Bluff, where normal share of self respect, and in con­ I nearly lost the number of m$r mess through the error of a rear rank man sequence was rewarded by an astonishing who discharged his musket without amount of work. The success with which ! going through the necessary ceremony he carried the road over the Blue Moun­ of withdrawing the old-fashioned ram­ rod. No breech-loaders in those days. tains is attested by the letter written to * * • him after Macquarie, with his wife and Such is the life story of Colonel Bull Cox, had driven to Bathurst. The diffi­ as I knew it. But, I could not allow culties of the task are shown without ex­ such an historic figure to be simply a record, without making an effort aggeration, and with great modesty in to gain some further particulars as Cox’s journal, which is, fortunately, still to his administration on the Blu© j preserved. It was an astonishing achieve­ Mountains. Through the kind offices ment to build a road 101 miles long within of Mr. Pascoe, Town Clerk of Castle­ maine (Vic.) I got into communica­ six months, over an uncleared range of tion with a son, Mr. William McLeod hills, and with only thirty men. most of Bull, of Bendigo, and through him to them unskilled. The pioneer Had to con­ other members of the family, who sup­ plied me with interesting' hiatter con­ tend with a wet season, and with much nected with the Colonel's work on sickness among his few men. The chart the Mountains in the forties—seventy he had to use was in some places defective, Todd years a g o . Colonel B ull died at and his appliances for blasting and bridg­ Goulburn, New South Wales, in 1900, aged 95 years, leaving a widow, aged ing were extremely primitive. His diffi­ 92, who died three years later (re­ culties were properly appreciated by Mac­ gistering the same age as her late quarie as he drove over the road down husband, 95 years4, and sis children, or rather, three sons and three daugh­ what he describes as a rugged and tremen­ ters, long past childhood age. Colonel dous descent executed with skill and Bull was in receipt of two pensions, stability, or on to the ridge which he called Imperial and Colonial. The Colonel’s Mount York. We do well to honour to­ domestic record is, perhaps, unique in family histories. Mr. McLeod Bull day the memory of these two devoted pub­ wrote in December last, “If you warn lic servants. They neither of them could any dates re my father's life, let me anticipate the vast and fertile areas which know, and I will find them for yott^ He arrived in New South TVales in the new road would open up. But their IS 42, and took ch arge at 18 M ile H o l­ labours are the foundation of the greatest low (first), and then on to Blackheath, industry in this State, and their examples as soon as the house was built, re­ are such as should perpetually be kept alive lieving Captain Day—SOth Regiment. I was born there in 1847. There are by a people who wish to understand and six of us still alive, X being the take pride in their history. y o u n g e s t".* • • • The old surveyors of the thirties, Sir Thomas Mitchell—then known as Major Mitchell—William Romaine Go- vett, . who discovered the famous “Govett’s Leap, and others, in the absence of distinctive landmarks, gave the hollows or valleys, with the-mile­ age, in all their road surveys. Thus “17 Mile Hollow” is now Linden, “18 Mile Hollow" Bull's Camp, “20 Mile Hollow" Woodford, and “24 Mile Hol­ low’* Lawson. * * • Mr. McLeod Bull was so good as to send me the names, ages, and address­ es of his family. Please, in this con­ nection, remember that Colonel Bull , V

'

— ...... - •• ...... - - ’ ■*: '

1 1 The Great Western Road 18

land his wife were each 95 years old at the time of death; the wife surviv­ ( Bull, says:—“Blackheath was father’s ing her husband three years. They permanent camp. Twenty Mile Hollow are interred in Goulburn cemetery. • Wijsj. known by that name when father * * • lived there. Father went up to Twenty Mile Hollow from Sydney soon after The list is as follows. his arrival in the Colony. Kate (Mrs Mrs. Raymond, Goulburn, New South Raymond) thinks that father lived at Wales^ aged 90 y ears. 20 Milo Hollow two or threo years. Airs. Adair, Newcastle, New South Fred was born there, so that would Wales;, aged 88 years. be about 1S42. Kate was, at that time, Mr. E. L. Bull, Castlemaine, Vic- down at school at Wollongong with oria; aged 80 years. Aunt Katie and Maggie, and so can- Mr. F. E. Bull, Sydney, New South 'not give correct dates or times. She iVales; aged 78 years. think3 it quite likely that 20 Mile Mrs. Williamson, Goulburn, New Hollow is now what is called 'Bull’s South Wales; aged 76 years. Camp’ from tilings she has heard from Mr. William McLeod Bull, Bendigo, several people who have visited thoso V ictoria; aged 74 y ears . v parts. The ‘dug-outs’ mentioned as • , • * cells for the punishment of prison­ The venerable Mrs. Raymond Is the ers is most untrue. Kate also remem­ widow of Mr. Samuel Raymond, bar­ bers the ‘Old Pilgrim Inn’ quite well. rister-at-law, who held legal" appoint­ There was a flogger at Twenty Mile ments in the Supreme Court of New Hollow when father went there, but South Wales, and who was the son father abolished all flogging. He never of Mr. James Raymond, Postmaster- had a man flogged, and at the end of General of this State in the mid years tint year he wrote to the Government of last century, and who lies' under and advised the removal of the flogger, a handsome monument in St. Peter's as he had no use for his services! Anglican Cemetery, Cook's River Road, and they might save his salary, so St. Peters. he left. Father never had any trouble • • « with the prisoners, except what a Mr. Bairs letter continues:—“Father good talk would cure”. (To be re­ named th6 town Sandhurst after the sumed next week.) College at Home where he went to • • . school. My eldest sister, Mrs. Kate An interesting letter from Misa Rosa Raymond, lives at Goulburn, and my respecting a 90 year-old* grandfather’s youngest sister, Mrs. Williamson, is clock made by James Oatley, • will have staying with her. I am not sure of attention presently. Concerning the the month that father came to Vic­ Question respecting Mr. R. H. Horne toria; it might have been the e^id of the rwet c f the fifties and sixties 1851, or the beginning of 1852. He ’n M elbourne. I have no aou ot He is ibok charge of Sandhurst goldfield first, the B&mc mentioned by a correspond­ and then, to C astlem aine. W e w ere ent. But the matter would not in' burnt out at Castlemaine on father's lerest our readers. 90th birthday, and that is why I can­ not give you a better account of the early days, as we lost everything * Father, mother, one of my brothers, and myself only had the clothing we were wearing. It was'a cruel fate for OUT THE GREAT WISTEBB ROAD— him, as he lived on the past memor­ A LAND MARK—BULL'S CAMP— ies more than present-day affairs. I A STORY OP THE ROAD-MAKING agree with you about the cells in the GANGS — WHAT “TRADITION” rocks being storehouses for tools, etc. As father never had a prisoner flogged DOES POB HISTORY — SOKE we don’t know why those marks are MOUNTAIN LEGENDS. on the stones you speak of. There were no proper burials untjl father 1 have to thank many correspond­ took charge. Anyone who had died ents for letters and telegrams con­ were just buried like dogs; no coffin veying good wishes on having passed or services, or anything. Father and the 81st mile post on Life’s Highway. mother went to live with my sister, ... Mrs. Raymond, after our home was When Mr. Sydney Cunynghame made destroyed by fire, four years before his first trip over the Blue Mountains he died” . with his uncles, Charles and James • • • Whalan, of Oberon (see ‘‘Truth" The “marked stone” mentioned by 15/5/’21), in the year 1844, they pass­ Mr. Bull is a flat corrugated rock. ed a landmark on the Bathurst-road, Gossip and tradition say that the m ileage 50, then know n as 18 M ile corrugations were mfde in order to Hollow; to-day as Bull’s Camp, give the scourger a better foothold and why so named? Well, it was this while performing his odious office. A way. In 1842 there came to Sydney whipping post was said to have been with the 99th Regiment, Captain J. alongside. The post disappeared, but H. N. Bull, who was immediately de­ j the flag stone, or rock, remains. My tailed lor duty with 60 non-coms and | own impression is that the rock was privates of his regiment,, to take , the site of a smithy, and the cor- charge of a road-making gang, camped | -ligations were made to give the anvil at IS Mile Hollow, in which charge i‘'a foothold”, not th6 flagellator. he succeeded Captain Day, who, went * • « with the Barney expedition to Fort I Mrs. Williamson, writing for her Curtis to found a new settlement, sister, Mrs. Baymond, to Mr. McLeod, which did not then become "founded” . Captain Bull camped with his family ' The Great Western Road. 19

at the spot now known as Bull’s Camp, the early sixties in victoria, where while a house was being' built for Tie was a Captain of Volunteers, and his accommodation at Blackheath, so I a full private in one of the com­ named by Governor Macquarie on his panies. Captain Bull was the second trip’ over the Mountains In 1815. Cap­ son of Colonel Bull, a Companion of tain Bull was appointed a magistrate the Bath, a Knight of Hanover, who and engineer in charge of the Great had served in the Peninsular and Western Road from the River Nepean Waterloo campaigns, in the Royal to Bathurst. The headquarters of the Horse Artillery. Our Captain Bull was road gang was at Blackheath, a very : born in the centre of Ireland in the healthy locality, and somewhat chilly ! y ear 1S0C; h e entered the M ilitary in winter. Captain Bull was on these j College at Sandhurst in 1820; he re­ hills from 1842 to 1848, -apd we have ceived his first commission ii^ the heard many legends and traditions 78th Highlanders in April 1825; he concerning him and his treatment of purchased his lieutenancy in June. the helpless convict wretches under 1826, and was for two years on the his command We have heard of Cap­ staff of the Quartermaster-General's tain Bull's bath cut in solid rock, and Department in Kandy, which sweetly- Captain Bull’s armchair also cut in named town was at one time the the solid rock, in which the Captain capital of the island of Ceylon, where used to recline, “monarch of all he j Bishop Heber has told us “The spicy surveyed”. The “bath’' and “the ! breezes blow” . In October, 1838, Lieut- chair” have been wiped out by the i enant Bull obtained his captaincy, and railway line. It has been said also, and in 1840 wan appointed Deputy-Judge by some alleged historians, I am sorry Advocate of the Northern District of to say. that a certain corrugated stone ! England. In January, 1842. he exchang­ j near Linden was used as a “sure- ed into thp 99tb, commanded by Colon­ . footing” for the flogger when plying el Des'pard, who, while occupying the i ! his dreadful office; it was said, also, old George-street Barracks in Sydney, 1 that certain “dug-outs” were punish­ earned the sobriquent of, “Keep off ment cells for wrong doers. Well, I the grass Despard” from the fact that have the testimony of an eye witness, he wished the green sward in front a lady now in her 91st year, who of tho barracks be kept for the use states that the alleged cells of punish- ot his family cow. r ment were stone houses for tools • • • | and explosives, used in road making, The 99th arrived in Sydney in Oc­ | and, as Captain Bull never had a man tober. 1S42, and C aptain B ull w as whipped, the stone in question could ordered to take charge of a stockade : not have been put to the use sug­ on the Blue Mountains, with a de­ gested by the legend. To my mind the tach m en t o f 50 so ld ie rs; h e 1 w as, as stone mentioned was the site of a I have said, appointed magistrate and blacksmith’s forge, but we will come engineer in charge of the Western to that presently. * • * Road from Penrith to the City of the Plains. After six years so employed, As I have eald, Captain Bull was he rejoined headquarters, and soon on these h ills from 1842 to 1848. . In after retired from the service on being 1843 we got a Parliament, a mixed ! promised civil employment; he had chamber of Government officials, an appointment at Newcastle, where he nominees and elecfives, there being 6 supervised the construction of the official members, 6 nominee members, breakwater from Nobby Island to the and 24 electives. Amongst those who k mainland. In October, 1851, on applica­ had seats in that House were W. C. tion of the the Government of Vic- Wentworth, Dr. Bland, W. H. Suttor, , toria, then newly-established on sep­ senr., ot Bathurst, Robert Lowe, aration from New South Wales, he Charles Cowper, Dr. Lang, Sir Thomas resigned the Newcastle appointment, Mitchell. Dr. Nicholson, Roger Therry, and became Commissioner of Crown John Blaxland and many of similar Lands, Magistrate, and Warden at temperament and standing. Some of Bendigo. On the famous gold field he these were constant travellers between met some of his old college mates, the metropolis and the country, not who had passed through the Military flying by express train as to-day, but School, “Orion” Horne, the poet, in their own horse-drawn gigs and amongst them, and without much au­ coaches. They must have daily passed thority these ex-collegians changed the gangs of road-makers under Cap­ the name Bendigo to Sandhurst. Some tain Bull, and it may fairly be asked i years ago, however, the people re­ would it be possible for the Captain turned to their x allegiance, and the to so brutally ill-use his helpless famous old gold town is again known charges as tradition has debited him as Bendigo. with? Were he so guilty, you very soon * * . • would hear of some of the Australian On the Police Magistrate leaving patriots I have named taking Par­ Castlemaine, Captain Bull was in­ liamentary action to bring him to book. structed to perform his duties, which, With Parliamentary representation w ith that o f Goldfields Warden, he even in a limited degree, the old dark continued to discharge until Decem­ days of penal history had passed away ber 31, 1869, wrhen he w as placed on fo r ev er. the retired list on account of age, • • • €?—quite a you^h It may be said. When I first heard of Captain Bull On the formation of the Volunteer , and Bull's Camp, the site of which, Corps in Castlemaine in 1860, he was ‘ by the way, I am overlooking as I rominated Captain. The Corps consist- j write, I little thought that I knew ed of three companies. On September. « him, not certainly •when lie was in 3. 1863, he was promoted to the rank * command on the Mountains, but in of Lieut-colonel In charge of the Volun­ teer Corps in the northern district, j 4 4

— The Great Western Road. 0

------V ------

with headquarters at Castlemaine, re­ Continuing Blaxland’s references maining until the abandonment of the (pp. 23) he further states: “ . . . . volunteer system. Subsequently he and from this elevation they obtained was, for a short time, connected with for the first time, an extensive view the militia, but retired on his rank of of the settlements below. . . j Colonel. A further corroboration that the ridge mentioned by Blaxland is the one beyond Linden station, lies in the fact that from the high ground I the first and best view of the tow- 1 “ Caley’s Repulse’’ lying country to the east of the Mountains is obtained. Again referring to Blaxland’s jour­ nal, pp. 23-4, are these words: "... An Old-time Cairn Mount Banks bore north-west; Grose Head, nor-east; Prospect Hill, east by south; The Seven Hills, east- B1 FRANK WALKER, F.R.A.H.S. north-east; Windsor, north-east by east. . . .” The writer, in the year 1903. when exploring this locality, took compass This interesting memorial, referred bearings from the highest point of to by all the early explorers, origin­ the ridge of the prominent headlands ally stood in the vicinity of Linden, enumerated above, and found them close to the old line of road tc to agree exactly with Blaxland’s re­ Bathurst. It was wrongly named sults. Thus identification of the “Caley's” or “ Keeley’s Repulse,” by ridge (called by Blaxland,' “the Governor Macquarie, during his second ridge,” is carried still further, official tour along the newly con­ and placing it beyond doubt. On structed Western Road, in 1815. page 24 of Blaxland’s journal, is the The first, and most definite refer­ following: “ .... At a little dis­ ence to this memorial is made by tance from the spot at which they , in his journal began the ascent they found a pyra- i (reprint, 1913, F. Walker, pp. 24). midial heap of stones. ...” Previous to this, on pp. 23. he says: In searching for this relic in 1 9 1 2 . "... On Wednesday. 19th May, the the party of members of the Royal party moved forward along this path, Australian Historical Society en­ hearing chiefly west, and west-south­ gaged in exploratory work in this west. They now began to ascend I locality, kept in view the first few the second ridge of the Mountains. words of Blaxland’s reference (“at a little distance from the spot at The "second ridge” here referred which they began the ascent, etc., to is identical with the one running etc.” )— deducing from this that the I north and south, due west of Linden memorial, or the remains of it, station, having a deep valley before would not be found on the summit, j it, the latter bisected by the present but somewhere about midway be­ railway embankment. Blaxland and tween. Following Cox’s road, plainly party, up to the night of the 18th visible, which first ran due west, the May, had travelled about 16j miles track as it ascended curved to the from the Nepean. Linden is about left, or south. At about 100 yards 51 miles from Sydney by road, and from its commencement, the garden, deducting 341 miles (Sydney to or boundary fence of the private Penrith) leaves 16^ miles, thus property in this locality, bisected it. agreeing with Blaxland’s figures. On Still bearing to the south, and as­ the high ground east of Linden sta­ cending more gradually, a further tion, where the present road curves advance of about 50 yards, brought round a rocky bluff, traces of Cox's 1 the party to what was unmistakably road (almost identical with Blax­ the foundations of what had been a land’s track), can be distinctly seen, pile of stones, close to the old line and on reference to Cox’s journal of road, on the left-hand side. Its (pp. 63-4), it will be noticed that location, bearing, distance and ap­ Cox found it necessary to throw a pearance left no other reasoning but causeway, or bridge, as he called I that here was all that remained of it, across the valley mentioned above. "Caley’s Repulse.” ■ Cox's journal Between 1815 and 1830, some build­ (pp. 64) under date September 3, ings were erected about the centre reads: "... Augmented the men at of this “bridge,” one being known work on the pass at the bridge to 10. as the “Toll Bar Inn.” A toll-gate I both yesterday and to-day. The road was also erected at the western end. finished to Caley’s heap of stones, All traces of this causeway have dis­ 172 miles. . . .” (Blaxland esti- ' appeared, which must have been mates the distance at 18 miles obliterated when the railway em­ This is a further proof that the bankment was made, but the old memorial was close to the old line road can still be traced on the far of road, other wise Cox would not side, where it commences to ascend have referred to it in these terms. the ridge. The distance given, i.e., 17$ miles, i .

J

SSS f f — r ■ *•* The Great Wastern Road

from the Nepean, places the memo­ rial about 1 mile from the high bluff east of Linden, which added to the 161 miles of Blaxland’s statement, agrees exactly. Surveyor George William Evans, WILLIAM COX. in his journal, states (November 21, —«------1813): “ . . . .at about 11 o’clock I passed the pile of stones alluded to by the former party. . . (i.e., A PIONEER’S JOUENAL. Blaxland’s). Here again we have evidence that the cairn was visible from the road, (By fr a n k w a l k e r .) and, apparently, close to it, as the July IS, 1814.—"At daylight, gave out the discovery of the foundations proved. tools to handle and put in order. Issued Evans had no time for exploration half a week’s provisions to the whole party. work, outside Blaxland’s track, us Began work at 10 a.m to make a pass he was eager to press on to the lat- across the Nepean; the banks very steep on ter’s terminal point, where his own the east side. . . . Weather fine, clear, work would begin. and frosty.” Major Antill, in his diary of Gover­ The above extract Is taken from William nor Macquarie’s trip in 1815, also Cox’s Journal, and is reminiscent of the turn­ refers to the pile of stones, placing it at “about 5 miles from Spring- ing of the Erst sod of the great road to the wood.” This measurement all but west. To-morrow, the corresponding date in coincides with the position of the the present year, the centenary of tblB event memorial as fixed by others, and with will have been reached, and now that the the remains discovered in September. question of new roads and railways is constant­ 1912, there belnjg a difference o f only ly before the public eye. It may profit us to three-quarters of a mile. forget the present century for a short time, The name “Keeley’s” or “Daley's and project our minds Into thd past, when Repulse,” was bestowed by Mac­ William Cox, under Governor Macquarie's quarie, who was even ignorant of orders, Bet himself the task ot carrying a road the man’s very name. That Caley had aught to do with it is out of across those mountain solitudes, which but the question, as his tour of explora­ lately had been conquered by the Intrepid ex­ tion was conducted on the northern plorers, Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson. side of the Grose Valley, so that he Most people are, or should be, familiar with could never have even aet foot upon the circumstances which necessitated the Im­ the ridges over which Blaxland first mediate discovery of new lands, in which the ; -travelled, let alone erected the me­ starving cattle would have a chance to procure morial. Who its builder really was sustenance, and the strenuous efforts that were is only problematical. It may have made between tho years 1789 and 1SJ3 to force been Bass, though his direction was a passage across the Blue Mountains, beyond much further south, or Wilson, pro­ which, it was felt certain, unlimited pasturage bably the latter, as he was known lay. All this was brought about by the suc­ to have penetrated nearly as far as cessful expedition of the abovenamed explor­ this. On the other hand, Quarter­ master Hacking, of the “ Sirius,” was ers, and the subsequent discoveries of thetr also in the vicinity, aim the nature successor, George William Evans. of the memorial is like what a sailor Those discoveries could not be put to any would accomplish in fixing his mark practical use until means of acces3 had been in newly-discovered country. After provided, and this was the problem which this lapse of time it is very unlikely faced Macquarie when the conquest of the that the name of the original builder heights had at last been accomplished. He will ever be known. was fully alive to the great possibilities that lay before this sudden acquisition of unbounded territory, whose richness and beauty had been so graphically described by Evans, and, thanks to the magnanimous offer of that sterling clti- i zen and soldier, Captain William Cox, to super­ intend the construction of the road that -the Governor had determined must be made, there seemed an early chance of Macquarie's hopes and aspirations being realised. Accordingly, the Governor issued a General Order, doted from Government House, Sydney, July 14, 1814, in which, with the greatest minuteness, he gives instructions as to the methods to be employed in carrying <5ut the work, and offering every assistance to the man who had come forward so generously with his offer. That order, as above mentioned, was dated July 14, but even before it was officially fc.«oH vt-j»#•*£ erfi

:

IHI

-

. '

,

I

*

‘ -

' The Great Western Hoad

delivered, Cox had selected his men—30 in Road, in the ’thirties, much of Cox’s work numbef—and, with a guard of eight soldiers, was obliterated, as in placos the original of iad already started work. road could not be improved upon, and the ROMANCE OF THE ROAD. newer work soon made short work of the old, The Journal subsequently kept by William but in others an easier ascent or less danger­ ous curve was decided on, and the old road was Cox reads like a romance. Every detail in left stranded in the bush, to become a thing the construction of that great highway is set of interest and historical value to future down. Nothing of any importance seemed to generations. have escaped his eye, and, accordingly, we are permitted to have a close insight Into the TOIL AND HARDSHIP. carrying out of what must be considered as From July 18, until November 14, Cox and one of the greatest engineering feats of its his party had been working through the moun­ time. With a mere handful of men, a good tain solitudes, slowly but surely, and his jour- i practicable road, complete with bridges, water- nal records some places over which the road ' tables, culv.erts, gradients, etc., etc., waB con­ liad to be made, the negotiation of which ng- structed and finished in the remarkable space ccssitated severe toil and hardship, consequent of time of six months. Only those who are upon the rugged and sterile condition Of the acquainted with the wild and rugged nature country. On several occasions they had to de­ of parts of the mountains, practically the scend precipices some hundreds of feet deep, ssyne as they were in Cox’s time, can realise in order to procure the water required for the magnitude of this great undertaking. There meals and for the hosses. In one place, where •were no labor-saving devices such as we are the only outlet westward was a narrow ridge, familiar with at the present day, and, although | between two deep valleys, one of which it was gunpowder was employed throughout the length I necessary to cross, a low level bridge was con- I of the roadway, the bulk of the iabor required structed, measuring 80ft. in length, by 15ft. in ■ was necessarily that of human hands, and the width at one end, end I2ft. at the other. A exertion of sheer brute force. rough stone wall, about 100ft. long was also i required to keep the road in position, and the If Cox ever allowed himself to be overcome labor expended on this portion of the road occu­ with despair when confronted with some par­ pied the party for nearly 14 days. ticularly weighty problem, he never mentions On November 14 the road had progressed as it in hiB diary. Optimistic from the start, he far as that huge spur running out into the stack to his task, and conquered by sheer force valley beyond Mount Victor!#, now known as of will. Discomforts there were many. In­ Mount York, and the next problem, which faced ! different food, exposure to the rigors of a this intrepid engineer, was how to make a ! mountain winter, the cheerful acceptance of practicable road down the rocky and precipitous ! poor accommodation at night time, and the sides of the mountain. The descent was ex- | frequent illnesses of individual members of amined on ail sides, and finally the track made j his working party causing unavoidable delays— by Blaxland and party was chosen, along which j all these were taken philosophically and as to form the road. This was a tremendous un- j part of the day’s work, for one never meets dertaking, and taxed the ingenuity and re- i with a complaint all through his remarkable sources of the road-makers to the last degree, j narrative. After 24 days of unremitting toil, necessitating Added to the interest which his Journal will the hurling a3ide of gigantic boulders and the i qlways possess, is the fact that several sec­ constant use of blasting powder, a track was tions of this very road are still in evidence, literally carved out of the mountain side, and j and may be inspected with a very small amount on December 8, the pass was finished. of exertion on the part of the sightseer. Be­ This remarkable piece of work may still be ginning at Emu Plains, the first portion of seen, and is practicable for foot-passengers Cox's road, where it ascends the eastern slopes from top to bottom. The marks of the work­ of the Mountains, with its successive “tra­ men’s picks are distinctly visible in the rock, verses,” seven in all, may still be seen, and and in one place the local authorities havo is easily accessible to the foot passenger. The had a copper plate prepared, and bolted to the great stones which form the numerous em- | rock, upon which has been inscribed the fol­ bankments were gathered from the hillside, ! lowing words. ‘‘Pick-marks made by convicts and, innocent of mortar or other binding ma­ In widening the road, 1814.” This inscription terial, are practically as firm to-day as when will serve to remind visitois of the work of they were placed in position a century ago. our first road-makers, nearly a century ago, Eeyond Lawson there is a section of about and as long as the pass remains in existence half a mile running parallel with the present it will stand as a worthy monument to the man road, and here the work of these early road who so conscientiously performed the duty en­ makers may be distinctly seen. trusted to him, and carried out his Instructions , Near Mount Blaxland there is a stretch of [ so faithfully and well. several miles, beginning from the ascent jpf ' [ For upwards of 2S years all the traffic to Macquarie’s “Clarence Hilly Range,” and here the west passed up and down this mountain, will be found exact duplicates of the stone em­ and, though the grade, to modern eyes, seems preposterous, and It Is on record that “teams bankments mentioned above. When Major conveying wool to Sydney had to unload at (afterwards Sir Thomas) Mitchell carried out | the foot of the pass, and roll the bales up by hid deviations and alterations of the Western i hand,” few complaints were made, the settlers ! & 4M $f JBS/I iu rxv H i i T So£ bf#nkJ

.

.

S ' The Greet Western Roed

______— ley, Surveyor-General; Mr. Mehan. Deputy Sur­ being only too pleased to get some sort oJ ! veyor-General; Mr. Lewin, painter and natural­ means of communication v.lth tlia city, or their j ist-. and Mr. G. W. Evans, Deputy-Surveyor of dlBtant homes. Near the top of the pass an­ Laads. . . _ . _ other notice has been erected, conveying the In­ . . The road constructed by Mr. Cox flown formation to visitors that here the descent be­ 1 thij ruggod and tremendous descent (Mount York) through all its windings, Is no less than gins, and, further adding, that “Governor Mac­ thr«»e-quarters of a mile in length, and has been quarie passed over this road in 1815." executed with skill and stability, and reflects MACQUAKIE’S TRIBUTE. mveh credit on him. The labor here under­ go * and the difficulties surmounted can only be When the road was finished, Governor Mac­ ap reciated by those who view the scene. In , quarie, to show his appreciation of Cox’s work,' or er to perpetuate the memory of Mr. Cox a sent him a letter, which was a public docu­ Feryices, the Governor deemed it a tribute justly ment, end the original is, naturally, carefully duf to him to give his name to this grand and preserved amongst the family archives. It sets exi -aordinary pass; and he accordingly called it ' 'ox’s Pass. . . The Governor gave the name forth clearly the great services rendered to of Mount York to this termination of the the country by William Cox, and the following ridgre, in honor of his Royal Highness the Duke is a transcript of those portions which directly of 'fork. . . By eommand of h!s Excellency the bear upon the first Western Road:— Governor, John Thomas Campbell, Secretary.’* "Government House, Sydney, June 10, 1815. Macquarie’s eugoliatic recognition of Cox’s “William Cox, Esq., Bathurst. services in connection with this famous piece "Sir,—The Governor desires to communicate of engineering was richly deserved. The first for the information of the public the result of cent-nary of the turning of the first sod is an his late tour over the Western, or Blue, Moun- I tains, undertaken for the purpose of being ! event which cannot be allowed to pass with­ enabled personally to appreciate the Import- I out recalling the great debt we owe to ance of the tract of country lying westward of j Australia’s worthy pioneers. _____ them, which had been explored in the latter j end of the year 1S13, and beginning of 1814, by ! Mr. George William Evans, Deputy-Surveyor o f Lands...... “To Gregory Blaxland and William Went­ worth, Esquires, and Lieutenant Lawson, of the Royal Veteran Company, the merit is due of having effected the first passage over the most rugged and difficult part of the Blue Moun­ tains. . . . The favorable account given by 1 Mr. Evans of the country he had explored, in­ WESTERN ROAD. duced the Governor to cause a road to be con­ structed for the passage and conveyance of cattle and provisions to the interior; and men of good character, from amongst a number of PIONEERS OF PAST convictB who had volunteered their services, ; were selected to perform this arduous task, on HONOURED. j condition of being fed and clothed during the continuance of their labor, and being granted , emancipation as their final reward on the com- | pletion of the work. THE GREAT BUILDERS. “The direction and superintendence of this great work was entrusted to William Cox, i j Esq., the chief magistrate at Windsor; and to j i the astonishment of everyone who knows what HISTORICAL RECORD. was to be encountered, and sees what has been ; done, he effected its completion in six months ■ from the time of commencement, happily with- 1 out the loss of a man, or any serious accident. ,j CENTENARY CELEBRATIONS. The Governor is at a loss to appreciate fully the services rendered by Mr. Cox to this colony ! in the execution of this arduous work, which Penrith was early astir on Saturday, to promises to be of the greatest public utility, j celebrate the centenary of the tufning of the by opening a new source of wealth to the in­ first sod of the Old Western-road. A blue dustrious and enterprising. Whea it is con- | sky, flecked with fleecy clouds, and bright 6idered that Mr. Cox voluntarily relinquished the comforts of his own house, and the society genial sunshine auspiciously ushered in the of his numerous family, and exposed himself to day’s proceedings. Numbers of visitors ar­ much personal fatigue, with only such tem­ rived by early trains from Sydney and the porary covering as a bark hut could e$ord j surrounding centres. In the streets the from the inclemency of the weather, it is diffi­ display of flags and bunting made a pleasing cult to express the sentiments of approbation to colour contrast with the deep green foliage which such privations and services are entitled. Mr. Cox having reported the road ' as com- , of the triumphal arches. High-street former! pleted on the 21st January last, the Gover­ a picturesque setting for the day’s function, nor, accompanied by Mrs. M acquarie and an avenue of gum bushes stretching the full that gentleman, commenced his tour on April length, spanned by arclies at intervals, 25 over the Blue Mountains, and was Joined i Festoons of flags fluttered in the morning by Sir John Jamieson at the Nepean, who ac- : ; breeze. The decorations were a tribute to eompanied him during the entire tour. The following gentlemen composed the Governor’s the “mighty dead.” as the Prime Minister suite:—Mr. Campbell, secretary; Captain Antill, | said at the official luncheon, and Penrith did major of brigade; Lieutenant Watts, aide-de- full justice to the occasion. The processioa can p; Mr, Redfern. assistant surgeon; Mr. Ox- j and historic pageant which parded High- f)n

street to the Nepean River was an imposing grandson were now present to celebrate tnei spectacle. It was led by the mounted police occasion—(cheers)—had penetrated 98 miles and the Royal Australian Artillery Ban 3. beyond Blaxland’s furthest point. Flood and The Glebe Cadet Band was present, followed [amine had threatened the settlement. Gover­ nor Macquarie was overjoyed when he heard (by a detachment of the N.S.W. Lancers, and of the discovery. Then came the question of the Windsor and Penrith troop of the building a road. There was no money, but Mounted Rifles, with the Penrith cadets fol­ Captain William Cox, with an absolute for­ lowing. Then came the friendly societies, getfulness of self, which did him infinite with. their banners, and the local branch J credit, volunteered his services. He left be­ hind him the comforts of civilisation to sojourn of the N.S.W. Locomotive Engine-drivers, [ in the mountains for months to build the road. Firemen, and Cleaners’ Association. Most | This road was in use for 28 years, until Major interesting of all was the historic pageant j Mitchell made a new road. Concluding, Mr. with representations in character of Cover- j Walker paid a tribute to the men who had nor Macquarie (Mr. Geoffrey Baker), Gov­ made possible the benefits now enjoyed. ernor Bligh (Mr. P. Earp), Sir Joseph Banks j The R.A.A. Band played the National An-; them, and cheers were given for the King. j (Mr. C. Hollier). Captain Cox ,(Mr. T. Dukes), | Afterwards, at the Show Ground, a reception Captain King (Mr. W. Nagcll), Surveyor- I was held, when the visitors and townspeople General Evans (Mr. C- Thomson), the Rev. met many of the descendants of the old ! (Mr. C. E. Clarke), the Rev. pioneers. Among them was Mr. Harley Cox, Sam Leigh (Mr. M. S. Mills), the Rev. Father shire engineer of the Blue Mountain Shire, grandson of Captain Cox; Mr. William Evans, Brennan (Mr. Les. K eary). They wer-3 grandson of Surveyor-General Evans; Mr. E. dressed in the picturesque costumes of the J Fulton, grandson of the Rev. Henry Fulton; period represented. Bringing up the rear and Mr. F. H. W oodriffe, whose fam ily first was the Penrith Fire Brigade and several pioneered the Penrith district. comic turnouts were Included in the lony THE LUNCHEON. procession. King Billy, representing an abo­ The centenary luncheon was held in the pa­ riginal chief driving a grey horse whose J vilion. The Mayor, Alderman Jones, presided; harness was largely made of stringy bark, i those present, including the Prime Minister, Mr. J. Cook, and Mrs. Cook, the State P re­ while on the vehicle was a “mia mia" 3Q mier. Mr. W. A. Holman, and Mrs. Holman; wheels. The children of the local Public the M inister for Railways, Mr. H. C. H oyle, and school took part, the girls carrying garlands Mrs. H oyle; Mr. E. S. Carr, M.P.. and Mrs. of flowers, and making a striking effect in Carr; Mr. J. T. Wall, president Blue Mountains the colour scheme. Another feature w-as an Shire Council, and Miss Wall; Aldermen F. Brelt, Mayor o f St. M arys; and Mr. and Mrs. historic coach driven by Mr. Thos. Hobby, a Frank Walker. grandson of Lieutenant Hobby, who was After the loyal toast had been hqnoured, the Cox’s right-hand man in the building of the chairman said that they were celebrating the road. With its leather springs and sub­ fturning of the first sod of the Old Western- stantial under-carriage, it showed how our road, and it was intended to erect a memorial grandfathers travelled. In this coach Kin? at the riverside to the rfiemory of William Cox and his men. (Applause.) George travelled to Windsor when In Aus­ The Prime Minister, who was received en­ tralia many years ago with his brother, thi thusiastically, said that a nation was virtually late Duke of Clarence- The Duke of Edin­ dead that neglected the mighty heroes of the burgh also travelled In it on the occasion past. The people of to-day should cultivate of his visit. the memory of the past. He was afraid that they were inclined to forget this in the present A GREAT WORK. materialistic age. After all, it was the great The procession on arrival at the Centenarv personality of the nation that counted. They Park, Riverside, formed up in order close to were to-day enjoying the fruits of the labour1 of these men, and the people of Australia had; the spot where Captain William Cox com­ entered into a rich heritage. They were mence operations on the Western-road 10J the trustees of the grit and pluck years before. A large number of people and perseverance that had made their ances­ assembled here. It must have been in vivid tors great, and would continue to make Aus­ contrast to the inauspicious manner in which tralia a great nation. Cox started his work on that memorable RECORDS OF THE PAST. July morning. Below was the river, near by j the road bridge, and the railway bridge Mr. Holman, who on rising was received with cheers, said that he shared in that spirit J erected’ a few years ago. On the other side were the foothills of the Blue Mountains. of congratulation that had inspired the The railway viaduct could be plainly seen iu remarks of the Prime Minister. (Cheers.) the distance, and a train puffing up the , There was feeling of heartfelt pride which mountains, followed much the same course the great achievement of to-day called to as the old road. their minds. The Prime Minister had refer­ The Mayor (Alderman Jones) presided, and, red to the achievements of the past, of the after a brief reference to the importance of men who had blazed the track, but he could the occasion, introduced Mr. Frank Walker, not help referring to the progress they had who delivered an historical address. made since. The Government of which he was the head was the direct successors to the HISTORIC REVIEW. Government that had ordered the first sod of Mr. Walker was received with applause. the Western-road to be turned. In the Lands He recounted the incidents leading up to the Department they had an uninterrupted succes­ discovery of the track over the Blue Moun­ sion of records from that day to this. tains by Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth, (Cheers.) There was a certain added weight mentioning that no less than 13 attempts had of duty to preserve these records, and to i been previously made. Then another brave stimulate the memory of these deeds. Cox ] and energetic pioneer in the person of George and his men made 101 miles of road over the William Evans—whose grandson and great- mountains in the face of engineering diffl- Iculties of an indescribable character, and in o n oh i.’ioiaev; t B v i C 9 4 1

.

... •.. —* ‘*»re • MflQ11

.

'

1 1 The Groat Western Road

record time that had not since be?n equalled.; route for a road had been discovered. It was surprising to find that the Governor i But there were, practically, no funds who did this work had a body of critics, who wrote to the home authorities, besmirching the for the building of a road. But at name of the Government, just as he found was Macquarie’s request Captain William done to-day. (Laughter.) Cox, of Clarendon, agreed to take Mr. Frank Walker said that Cox com-' up the duties of director of the pro­ pleted the road in 6J months, it being 101£ miles in length. posed road work, and without waiting Mr. E. S. Carr, who was well received, said till such time as Government funds , as a westerner he could fully appreciate the would be allotted for the purpose, Cox significance of the function. Those who got his equipment together, and giv­ belonged to the west could best understand the work that had been opened to them by ing up home comforts, and literally their forefathers. his own convenience and' affairs, The toast of “The Visitors” was proposed started on the road-building pros­ by Mr. E. K. Bowden, and responded to by pect before even Macquarie had pos­ Mr. T. W. K. Waldron. The Prime Minister gave the toast of the chairman. ted the letter formally giving him In the afternoon a sports programme was authority as to stores, etc., some o f carried out, and at night a patriotic concert which Cox defrayed at his own ex­ was held. Yesterday special sermons were pense. He left the comforts of civi­ I,reached in the churches, and at St. Stephen’s Church of England a memorial tablet was un­ lisation to dwell in the m6untains for veiled to the memory of the Rev. Henry many a cold month to carry out his - Fulton. ______great enterprise. Mr Walker briefly de ailed the hardships borne by Cox and Hobby and their men in the course of building the road, and said that Cox’s road was in use fo r 2S Mr Walker s Address. years until Major Mitchell built a new road, as necissitated by the vast Mr Walker, who is a gentleman of increase of Western settlement. Not distinguished personality, was re­ many yards from where they had ceived with enthusiastic applause. congregated Cox had had the bank Mr W alker said he greatly apprecia­ cut down on that (eastern) side of the ted the invitation forwarded to him river to form the way for traffic, and by the committee of the Centenary so on that side had turned the first Celebra'.ions, and of having the op­ sod of the first Great Western Road, portunity of helping in the functions. in July, 1814. Mr W alker paid a No less than twelve attempts had glowing tribute to the labours of the been made (saia Mr Walker)) to find early pioneers and concluded a very a pathway westward over the moun­ interesting and sympathetic address tains prior to toe finding of a track with the _ following lines by Will by Blaxland, Lawson ana Wentworth Ogilvie (the Scoto-Australian poet)— in 1813. Following on the trail of They are sleeping in the graveyards, in their the three early explorers, however, silent graves apart, which went as far as Hartley Vale, With empty arms and eager that would fold another famous pioneer, Surveyor- them to their heart; General Evans—whose grandson and The Statesmen of the buried years ; the great-grandson were present that loyal men long dead— aay (cheers)—took up the task of Are i hey turning in their dreaming to the extending the pathway, and penetra­ dull tramp overhead ? When they pin the stars and garters, when ted 98 miles further than Blaxland, they grant the titles rare, Lawson, and Wentworth. Before the The nun who earned the titles are the men day of Blaxland’s discovery, the ex­ who wont be there. plorers who sought to find a west­ At th6 call of the Mayor three ward track, followed the course of the cheers were given for Mr Walker, valleys instead of the ridges. Blax­ and at the call of Rev J Tarn three land and his confreres, however, fol­ cheers were given for “ the day we lowed the riJges, and thus gained this celebrate." Three cheers were then key to the passage of the mountains. called for the King, and the R.A.A. It was, of course, as they would note Band played the National Anthem from the history of early sett'.ement, amidst a scene of great enthusiasm absolutely necessary to discover an and rejoicing. ou'le', as deve’opment was cramped, cabbined and confined in the narrow limits of the coastal district surroun­ ding Sydney, so far settled (prior to 1814). Flood and''famine also fre­ quently threatened the settlement. So Governor Macquarie was vastly de­ lighted to find that a practicable t ■ oH . ja ii., i m - r . * - r r

1

« The Greet Western Road

j GENESIS OF PENRITH. 1 f « ' n - 7 ’ * 4 - . The genesis of Penrith dates from soon after the settlement of Sydney Cove. Acting under instructions from Governor Phillip, Captain Tench and Lieutenant Dawes undertook ex­ peditions in the direction of th e B ue M oun­ THE ,OLD WESTERN tains, and the former, in June, 1*89, arrived within view of the Nepean River. T h e name ROAD. Nepean was given to the g r e a t watercourse by Phillip, after his friend, Sir Bvon Nepean, ------« ------Under-Secretary to the Home Department, and, although there is no definite information on record, it is believed that Phillip doubly hon­ CENTENARY AT PENRITH. ored Nepean by applying t o th e township the appellation of his Christian name, because for some years the place was called Braa. How T U B N IN G OF F IR S T SOD. the town came to be named Penrith is not clear but it is interesting to note that in the 5 1 -- ■ " County of Cumberland, England, there is also a town of Penrith. * TO-DAY’S CELEBEATION, BRIDGING THE NEPEAN. I?;-M i ------For many years after the construction of the Western Road, a punt was the principal means The centenary celebration to be entered of transport across the Nepean. The first upon at Penrith to-day is the third in con­ bridge, made of wood, was opened by Governor nection with the opening up of the interior Fitzroy on January 1, 1856, but on the night of of New South Wales to be held within a period the wreck of the Dunbar, In August of the of less than 14 months. The first took place following year, it was washed away by a et Mt. York, in May of last year, to mark flood, the first of a severe nature, it might be the 100th anniversary o f the first crossing of mentioned, since 1809. Another bridge was the Blue mountains, and the second at Bath­ subsequently erected, bu t in 1860 it m et the urst, about six months later, in commemoration late of its predecessor. Puntage was then of the centenary of the discovery of the West­ reverted to, and was continued until 1867, when, ern Plains. On the former occasion, tribute in the most severe flood on record, the punt was paid to the memory of Wentworth, Blax­ was carried away. Soon after this the third land, and Lawson, who were the first to effect bridge was built, but not until five freshes in a passage over the barrier of the great divid­ the river had washed away a similar number of ing range, and on the latter tribute was paid coffer dams which had cost some thousands to that of William George Evans, who was o f pounds. the first white man to behold the wonderful OPENING OF THE RAILWAY. panorama unfolded by the fertile plains be­ yond. To-day It is the memory of William The first sod of the railway line to Penrith Cox, under whose supervision the Old Western w as turned on the afternoon o f July 6, 1859, Road was constructed, that is to' be honored. by Mr. R. T. Jamieson, member for the district, Wentworth, Blaxland, and Lawson biased the in the presence of about S00 spectators, and track across the Mountains, and Evans picked the line was opened for traffic on July 7, 1862. up the trail where they left off, and carried The line, as far as St. Marys, then known as It on Into the Western Plains; but it remained 6outh Creek, was opened on May 1, 1862. The lor Cox to build a road by means of which remainder of the track to Penrith was re­ this rich Interior was made accessible to the quired by the Government to be completed people of the coastal region. The story of within five months, but the contractors—an how, with 30 convicts, equipped with the crude English firm—refused to do the work, and it implements of the time, he accomplished this was left to a Mr. Gibbons, who started it in in the remarkably brief period of six months the second week of June of the same year, from the turning of the first sod, is graphically and finished it within a month. No further told by Mr. Frank Walker, president of the extensions were made for five years, and dur- Australian Historical Society, in a special ar­ ing that period Penrith was the starting place ticle on another page of this issue. The first for coaches and teams for the west, as well aod was turned on July 18, 1814, and the rood I as a resting place for traffic to and from Syd­ was completed in January of the following year. ney. Although Penrith was founded some years be­ DEAF AND DUMB ARCHITECT. fore the construction of the road, the district Reference to early Penrith would not be owes much of its growth and prosperity to the complete without mention of the once famous opening of this gateway to the west, and it Is Regentville House, said to have been planned because of the fact that the site of the turning by a deaf and dumb architect named Kitchen, of the first sod is in close proximity to the to the orders of the late Sir John Jamieson. town that the local people originated the move­ It was erected about 90 years ago, about three j ment which will cnlminate in the celebrations miles from Penrith, but only a few stones now | to be held to-day and to-morrow. L . JblsoH irieJ-a© '* o r C S S g [THank]

■ ft

.

' '

I ' The Great Western Boad

remain to mark the historic site. in his hospitality at Regentville House. In The property was described as follows when March, 1835, he gave a fancy dress ball, at pnt up fo r sale in 1847:— which more than 300 guests were entertained, “Regentville House, substantially built of at a cost o f between £700 and £800. stone, with a tasteful colonnade in front and An old resident of Penrith remembers the on each side, surmounted with an iron balcony, Regentville coach and four, with postilions, from which there is a delightful prospect of conveying Sir John Jamieson and a company of the adjacent country. It contains an entrance guests to the neighboring races at Penrith, hall and 15 rooms, viz, two drawing-rooms, j Windsor, or Homebush, as the case might be. one dining-room, two breakfast-rooms, one The same gentleman also recalls that the stair­ study, one library and cabinet, and nine bed­ case at Regentville House was a marvel of* rooms. The prinqipal staircase is also stone staircases. He says that he saw horses ridden | built and circular. A laundry and washhouse up the stairs on several occasions, by sports­ are attached, and there are spacious cellars men of his time. The stables were also re­ under the house. The left wing consists of an markable in their way, accommodating 40 immense coach-house with store above. The horses, most of them blood stock, as Sir John left wing contains the billiard-room. The out- was a great horse-breeder and sportsman. He offlces are also stone built, and consist of two also had a racecourse on tho property, and it kitchens and a bakehouse, communicating with was here that he promoted the first great race the house by a covered way—a servants’ hall meeting of any note in New South Wales. A and seven bedrooms adjoining; the whole being further instance of Sir John’s lavish hospitality under one roof. All the above offices are con­ is supplied by the fact that on one occasion tained within an area of 180ft. square, en­ he entertained a large gathering of nearly closed by a substantial stone w all about 10ft. 5000 persons who attended the races. high. • The hospitable old knight died on June 29, "to the rear of the foregoing, adjoining the 1844, and was buried in St. Stephen's ground walls, are the handsome stone stables, which at Penrith. His famous house was destroyed consist of one 10-stall and one 4-stall, with by fire 20 years later. three large boxes, and two harness rooms. The lofts are over the above stabling, and are RECORD OF STEADY GROWTH. 160ft. in length by 15ft. in breadth. The stable The growth of Penrith has been of a steady is enclosed by a paling fence, and contains also nature. In the mid-fifties, according to the three loose boxes, slab-built, with loft over oldest living inhabitant. It comprised “not more them, than 30 houses from top to bottom,’' but to-day “Adjoining the stable yard, at the back, lies it has about 5000 inhabitants, with a district the garden, covering about four acres, full of population considerably larger. The - staple in­ choice fruit trees, vegetables, etc., and con­ dustries are agriculture and fruit-growing. The taining a gardener’s house. In the rear of the town itself is an important railway centre, and garden a shed is partitioned off and railed in numbers amongst its residents a large propor­ to accommodate about 30 colts; it is well tion of employees of the Railway Commission­ secured by a substantial fence, and has a pad­ ers. The proclamation of Penrith as a muni­ dock attached, which contains stockyards and cipality took place on May 12, 1871, and a t the drafting yards. The vineyard is on the left of first election in the succeeding month the the house, and contains about seven acres of following nine gentlemen were elected alder­ terraced vines, and about three and a half men:—James John Riley, Edwin James Wil- acres of field vineyard. It has also a stone- shire, Austen Forrest Wilshire, Thomas Smith, built house, containing four rooms, a large John Matthews, Peter Smeaton, Thomas An­ cellar manufacturing wine, with wine press for drews, John Reddan, and Donald Beatson. The and s tM ." first meeting of council was held on July 13, Then followed a description of a large dam, about 800ft. in circumference, some 10ft. in 1871, in a cottage (leased for council purposes) depth, which had never been dry. It is also at the top end of the main street, which is stated that the vineyard was let for £10O a now occupied as a private residence. Mr. Riley was elected Mayor, and Mr. John Price council year, and a portion of the land (comprising about 150 acres) for £100 a year. The property clerk. At this meeting, Messrs. J. T. Ryan, ex-M.L.A., and T. R. Smith, ex-M.L.A. (now Tomprlsed some 1760 acres, about 600 of which residing at St. Marys) were appointed valuers, were cleared and stumped. under whose supervision the first road from SIB HENRY PARKES AS LABORER. Penrith to Bathurst, a distance of just over Regentville is historic in another way. There 100 miles, was constructed in six months. Thirty convicts, under a guard of eight the late Sir Henry Parkes was employed as soldiers, were employed in tho work. a laborer. He worked in the vineyard for six" months fn the year 1839-40, and was paid at the rate of £25 a year and rations. It is also i At this time, the municipality took in Mulgoa a matter of historic interest that Regentville on the south, Castlereagh on the north, and was the birthplace of the late Sir Thomas extended to the Nepean River on the west and Bent, a former Premier of Victoria, who was Kingswood on the east. Later, Mulgoa and bom there over 70 years ago. Castlereagh seceded, and formed municipalities LAVISH HOSPITALITY. of their own. The successive Mayors of Pen­ rith municipality have been Aid. Riley, James Sir John Jamieson was reputed to be lavish j M'Carthy (then residing at Cranebrook, three U> [jp\ C'Y *-] fceo.I ere#*® arfT

• -

. ■# The Great Western Road

Penrith Volunteer Rifles by the ladies of the district of Penrith, to evince their cordial ap­ preciation of the loyalty and patriotism shown by the enrolment of the corps.” The first record of a place of public enter­ tainment in Penrith refers to the Depot Inn, 1823-4. It was controlled by Sergeant B aylis, and evidently under military supervision; but it afterwards developed into the King’s Head, which house was situated near the Bite of the present court house. HOSPITAL WITHOUT PATIENTS. Penrith boasts a number of public institu­ tions, but pernaps me oldest is the hospital. The original building -was erected in 1857, at a cost of over £1100. It was two-storied and j of brick, and was located at the eastern end of the town. Amongst the first committee of management were Messrs. George Cox, J. T. Ryan, J. J. Riley, R. Copeland Lethbridge, E. King Cox, R. T. Jamison, John Single, John Perry, the Rev. George Vidal, James M'Carthy, A. Fraser, R. Brooks. The medical offi­ cers were Drs. Willmott and Haylock. In 1872 there were no patients for a period of over three months, and, in conse­ quence, the building was closed. Later, it was pulled down, and the bricks were used in the erection of a cottage at Castlereagh. It waa not until 1890 that it was decided, at a public meeting, to open another hospital. Premises w ere rented till 1895, and then the present building was erected, the contract price being WM. COX, £1170. Since that time extensive improvements and additions have been made. These include talles from Penrith), Donald Keatson, Alfred an operating theatre, a fever ward, and nurses’ Colless, George B. Besley, Michael Long (nine quarters; and the institution now ranks as one times Mayor; now residing at Lambridge, near of the most up-to-date outside the metropolis. Penrith, in his 77th year), James Evans, A. W. Mr. S. E. Lees, ex-M.L.A., was elected presi­ Stephens, Arthur Judges, A. V. Reid (now re­ dent in 1895, and Has held the position ever siding at Manly), William Player, W. C. Ful­ ton, F. D. Woodriff, F. M. Vine, Dr. Higgins, H. J. F Neale, and Thomas Jones (present Mayor). The second town clerk was Mr. Henry “OLDEST OF THEM ALL.” Eager (a cousin of the Mr. Geoffrey Eager, I ____ P.M.G.). Then followed Messrs. Robert Stuart, sen., Robert Stuart, jun., Nash, Henry Fraser. HALE AND HEARTY AT 93. J. G. Bissland, W. H. W rench, and E. W . Orth, the present occupant of the position. The 'aldermen in the present council are:—Aid. OLD LADY’S REMINISCENCES. Thomas Jones (Mayor), Arthur Judges, W. S. Walker, John Heaney, Clarrie Hollier, J. T. Huxley, Joshua Field, Michael Coffey, and Wal­ There are doubtless still living in Penrith ter I,ance. The town boasts a never-failing district a few scores of people who remember water supply and an up-to-date electric-light­ the days before the railway line was extended ing plant. It Is 6aid to have been the third to that centre, but perhaps the oldest of tbem place in Australasia to secure an electric- all is Mrs. Edward Cane, who resides a short lightina service. The first hotel in the town, distance from the spot where the first sod of known as Governor GIpps’ Inn, was erected by the Great Western Road was turned a cen­ a Mr. Josephson, in 1831. tury ago to-morrow. This old lady is in her AX HISTORIC BUGLE. 93rd year, and still hale and hearty. She is Amongst the historic trophies in the posses­ in almost perfect physical health, and, apart sion of the Penrith people Is a silver bugle, from a slight deafness, is also in full posses­ which t u presented by the Udlei ol Penrith sion of her faculties. Her brain is as clear as in 1861 to the old Penrith Volunteer Rifle Corps, it was in the prime of her womanhood, and formed on June 29 of the preceding year. The she is endowed with a remarkably retentive company was disbanded in 1878, and the trophy memory, which enables her to recount, in most is now a treasured possession of the Penrith interesting fashion, reminiscences of the more Citizen Forces. The bugle, which was manu­ notable events in the history of the district factured in London at a cost of 40 guineas, bears subsequent to her arrival in Australia over the following inscription:—"Presented to the ha’ a centurv at;o.

The Greet Western Road

.THIRTY-FIVE DESCENDANTS lived in the one house iu High Street, near Mrs. Cane is one o£ the few aged residents the Nepean River, ever since. Her husband of the Nepean Plains who is not a native. She died 16 years back, at the age of 80, but the was born In London, and, with her husband three children still survive. The eldest of and three children, came to Australia in 1857. these, Mrs. Haynes, of Lemongrove, has just Their arrival was about a week after the | completed “the allotted 8pan,, of three-score

MRS. EDWARD CANE, THE OLDEST RESIDENT OF PENRITH. The old lady, who is 93 years of age, remarked to the camera man that he was “pretty quick" in photographing her, and added: “There were no jfhotographs in my day. We had to sit down while they painted our likeness.”

wreck of the Dunbar, and two of the children years and ten, while the two others—Mr. Ed­ secured some relics from the wreckage, one or ward Cane, of North Sydney, and Mrs. James two of which are still in the possession of the Baker, of Penrith—are 66 and 63 yeare of age family. Almost immediately after reaching respectively. There are also 13 grand-child- Sydney the Canes found their way to Penrith, ren and 19 great-grand-children, or 35 descen­ and, up till about 12 months ago, Mrs. Cane had dants in all. Amongst the grand-children is Mr. E. G. Baker, G overnm ent P rin ter a t P o rt « T i d w t i $ t i 7 \

The Great Western Hoad

Moresby. Mrs. Cane also has two surviving diggings. “ When I first, cam e,” she said, “ I brothers, the elder, the Hon. Dr. J. S. Helmc- was terrified by the blacks and roaming cattle, ken, of Vancouver, who was associated in the because in London I was unaccustomed to movement for the Federation of Canada, being sights of that kind. I did not relish the pre­ 89 years of age: The other brother, who re­ sence of the Chinese, either. They used to sides in England, is 84 years of age. come along in droves, en route to the Turon OPENING OF THE RAILWAY. and other goldfields. and I have seen scores of “When I first came to Penrith," said Mrs. them camped opposite this very house. Nor Cane, “settlement was very scattered, and there were the blacks enamored of the Chinese. One were not more than 30 houses all told. It was old blackfellow. describing the Chinaman, said. not until five years later, about 1862, I think, It yabber like it cockatoo; tail (pig-tail) like it that the railway was opened here. Needless to yarraman (horse); walk like it wobbler (duck)- say, there was a demonstration worthy of the him think it kill sheep.’ ” occasion, and people Rocked from all parts of I could talk to you for hours.” said the old the district to witness the unique spectacle. ady, in conclusion, “ but I have told you enough Some time afterwards a start was made with for one interview. I remember lots about tho the construction of the railway across the bushranging days, and the exploits of various Mountains. There was no bridge across the ‘ esperadoes. but those things. I think, should Nepean in those days, although I understood j be allowed to remain buried in the oblivion of that there was a sort of one before I came, the past.” but it was washed away. Teams, conveying merchandise to the interior, were conveyed across on a punt. This punt was also used to take over the materials employed in the construction of the railway. I remember the first two engines taken across. One was called “The Governor-General,” and bore the number 5—thus showing that there were few engines in the colony at the time—and the other was called “The Native Bear.” Later on, when the line had been pushed as far as Wentworth Falls, the station was about half a mile further on than the present building, and a bridge had been built across the river, the line was thrown open to traffic. The flret train consisted of an engine and a brake van— a very crude affair. Mr. Charlie Kellett, local postmaster at the time, who had charge of the mails, and my son-in-law, Mr. Baker, who, until his retirement some time ago, had been in the railway service for about 50 years, were amongst those who went on the first trip.” THE FLOOD OF ’t>7. “ It was rather a coincidence,” proceeded Mr9. Cane, “that at Just about the time the bridge was completed a flood came and’ washed away the punt, which was never replaced. The old bridge—a stone one—still stands, and will stand for years, tut it is now used for vehicu­ lar and pedestrian traffic, as the railway people a few years ago built an Iron lattice-work bridge for the trains to travel over. The flood to which I just referred wes the great flood of 1S67. I remember it well. There was one vast sea from the foot of the Mountains to Fulton’s shop, in the centre of the town. It wrought terrible damage. Tfce water rose in our house to a depth of a foot or two.' Boats passed right along here rescuing people, who were taken to the court-house. We. were taken there, too. There was another flood some years later, but I refused to go to the court-house on that occa­ sion. I went to a friend’s place just up the street.” BLACKS AND CHINESE. ! Mrs. Cane has vivid recollections of the i blacks who inhabited the neighborhood in the : early days, end of the Chinese, who used to | march along the road in single file to the gold ---■...... «- ...... - ...... AN HISTORIC COACH.

1-3 9 0 1 tc+ 86 •M c+ © 3 » o to p.

This coach, which is to be driven in to-day's centenary procession at Penrith by Mr. Thomas Hobby, grandson of Lieutenant Hobby (who was associated with Captain William Cox) was used to drive the late I>uke of Clarence, then Heir-Apparent, and the Duke of York, now King George, around Windsor district, on tho occasion of their visit to Australia many years ago. it was also availed of as a means of conveyance by the lute Duke of Edinburgh, when _____ ’ ’ ______he was iu New South Wales iii 1S&S. Jb soil /in *’ -im*i x ) * * f f

------— ------*——•

r '

—------—

4 ~ ■- £.. —— ------?------*------1-—— ------■¥*?*■■ ------The Great Western Hoad

Convict encampment at foot of Victoria Pass

The site of this stockade is at the foot of the old Victoria ^ass,about a £ mile from the road to the right. A swampy stream runs through the valley here formed,and a series of mounds in a cleared space on the near side of the stream, marks the s^ot where the buildings formerly stood. On the opposite side of the stream on rising ground,was the Commandant's house,and at the rear,was an old well,partly filled in when visited in 1906. The cleared space above referred to measures 41 yards,east to west,and 75 yards,north to south at its widest part. This encampment was in use for nearly three years,during the construction of the Pass in 1852 - 1835,and contained about 200 prisoners, working in chains. Late in the last century, (circa,1890) the ring-bolts in the trees,to which the convicts were chained could be seen,but an extensive bush fire later on swept over the lo­ cality and the trees were burned. The remains of the powder magazine may still be seen to the left of the pass,on the Hartley side of the Causeway,and at the upper end of the Causev

F.Walker June,1921. I)»o H jjri€ i's*W J-jsto-iD #rff 7o [b W k ]

!

,

- The Great Western Hoad

was also made of Emu Island, which, owing to the deflection o£ the channel of the river, at the present day is now obliterated. It originally lay a short distance to the north­ west of the railway line where it crosses the THE ROMANCE OF THE river. Views were shown of Lennox Bridge, constructed by the convicts in 1839, and a portion of the road on the Lapstone Hill. In the neighborhood of Linden several views WESTERN ROAD. of the original road were thrown upon the screen, taken from places quite remote from the present highway. The “cairn of stones” mentioned by Blaxland in his journal, w'as, the lecturer said, presumed to have been Discovery, Survey, and Constractim erected by Bass, but no trace of it has ever been found, though several expeditions, consistoi members of the Historical So­ ciety, have been despatched in search of ANIGHT WiTH THE PIONEERS. it. The farthest point reached by Blaxland and party was described until the time The history or Australia, said Mr. Frank came when their provisions were nearly ex­ pended, their clothes and shoes in bad con­ Walker, in the course of a paper that h* dition, and the whole party suffering more read before the Historical Society, or less i from various vomplaints, aggra­ contains no more interesting and romantic vated by the toilsome work they were en­ story than that connected with the disco­ gaged upon. On Sunday, June 6, after an absence of 27 days, the expedition once more very, survey, and construction of our main crossed the Nepean, and the great work Western road—the great thoroughfare which that Blaxland had set himself to do was ac» years before the introduction of railways complished. carried the traffic into the heart of the The next phase of the paper dealt with the survey of the route, following Blaxland's mountains, and beyond them to the fertile track and beyond it to where Bathurst now plains ana rich country in the west. No stands. This was performed by George W il­ such story of peril and hardship, of indom­ liam "Evans, and on his return he reported itable courage, of heart-breaking failures, in glowing terms of 'the magnificent country and finally ot reward that success brings, ars he had seen beyond the mountains. Mac­ connecteu with our other main thorough­ quarie had issued a Government order, fares—the Great Northern and Southern which was given in detail, in which due roads. The \\ estern road alone can claim acknowledgment of the good work perform­ these, and the splendid work undertaken ed by Blaxland and party was made, and by our hardy pioneers in those far-off days substantial rewards in the shape of land at the beginning of the nineteenth century grants were made to them. Evans also will stand for all time. came in for his share, and he was appoint­ For nearly 25 years after the arrival of ed Deputy Land Surveyor in Van Diemen's the First Fleet that great natural barrier, L an d . the Blue Mountains, successfully defied The third and last stage of the paper was e v e r y effort to surmount it. TBme and reached when the circumstances which led again were attempts made, but all to no to the construction of the first road by Lieu­ purpose, and the extent of the colony west­ tenant William Cox were given- It was a ward was but a bare 40-mile limit from voluntary offer on his part to superintend Sydney. it is 0:1 record that Lieutenant- the construction of the road, and Mac­ Governor Foveaux, in one or his communi­ quarie gladly availed himself of it. A let­ cations to' the Home authorities, despaired ter written by the Governor to Lieutenant of ever seeing the colony Income of any Cox -sets forth in detail the particulars con­ importance. ‘Nature,” he said,, "had all cerning the making of the road, and with too rigidly defined its boundaries, and the a party of 30 convicts and eight soldiers, limit of settlement and production was forming a military guard, the work was leached where that forbidding chain (of commerfced on July 14, 1814. Blaxland's mountains upreared its sombre crests.” heroic task was one that deserves every The paper then gave in detail the attempt commendation, but th*i work undertaken by made by Governor Phillip, in the month of Cox was of a far more arduous description. May. 1,8S. to find a passage, but in vain; The former had to cut a track through the and dealt with the successive expeditions ot scrub, but to Cox fell the task of construct­ Lieutenant Dawes in 1793, Surgeon George ing a proper carriage road, with bridges, Bass in 17S6. Milson (the convict;, Caley (the culverts, embankments, &c.. &c., and tak­ botanist), and lastly, that of Ensign Bar- ing into account the smallness of the -work­ allier in 1803, leading up to the final despatch ing party, and the short space of time, viz., of Blaxland, Wentworth, and Lawson in six months, in which the road was complet­ M ay, 1813. ed in every detail, too much praise cannot Portraits were then thrown upon the Be bestowed upon the man who attempted screen of those men who were principally and successfully, accomplished this herculean responsible for the opening up of the route task. His journal of each day's progress- to the west, viz., Major-General Lachlan minutely and carefully, written, afd with Macquarie, Gregory Blaxland, William no superfluous matter in it from beginning Charles Wentworth, Lieutenant Lawson, to end, is, declared Mr. Walker, one of the George William Evans (Deputy-Surveyor- marve,!= of the age. It is as inte­ General), Lieutenant William Cox. and, resting as a novel, -because it is a record of lastly. Major (afterwards Sir Thomas) Mit­ .■c°,0niRl undertaking up to that chell time, and it is a record that will appeal to The journey of Blaxland and party was In r;;’e, 1s^raIlan3 for centuries to come. then closely followed, and numerous extracts ^ 0, ' T rK)r Mac

>

.

‘ ' .

'

'

' T 73 The Great Western Hoad

ame the great route to.the west. diary of this trip, kept by Major Antill, is still in existence, and is a most interesting and historical document. In His co n clu d in g rem a rk s the lectu rer said he had endeavored to awaken some little interest in the history and romance connected with our great western .highway, and in those worthy pioneers of a past age, t*\ whose self-sacrificing labors this country owes so much. Of such men as Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth, George William Evans. Lieutenant Wri!liam Cox, and Major Mitchell, and not even forgetting the auto­ cra tic b u t level-h ea ded M acqu arie, *any country in the world had reason to be proud. He trusted that the day was not far dis­ tant when Australians would suitably re­ cognise the worth of these men by the erec­ tion of some more fitting memorials than those we can boast of to-day. Not the least interesting of the many lan­ tern slides thrown on to the screen was one showing that during a period of twelve, years M r Walker had. while on tour, cycled a dis­ tance of 27.445 miles. The lecturer remark­ ed that such a means of rapid, safe, an 1 in ­ expensive. lo c o m o tio n alone made it possible to visit and photograph all the places that aaa been pictured that e v e n in g . S

. . PAGES

74-138

ARE BLANK The Greet western lload

i.esterti ttoad,nr Linden

This section of road runs parallel with the railway,at Linden,and is not far from-the re nowEted "oaley's impulse discovered in iyi6,hy a party of members of the Australian iiis tor- i ical Society. The fi^ ure in the illustration is the late Dr nouison for many years one of the leading lights of the above bociety.

J^iction of old new roads

The figure in the fore­ ground,Mr J.L.Maiden,is stand­ ing on a portion of Dox*s road whilst below him,the present road is also visible. In the background is the railway line the view thus giving in one glance three separate highways embracing a period,to the pres ~ent day,of 107 years. |4o r j > \ * M

■ II The Great Western Road. Lo 8 i f /

Mount Blaxland. The cairn marks the approximate site vvhere Gregory blaxland stood on May 51st,lbl£,and came to the decision to abandon further explor­ ation and return to Syd­ ney. At the time of the Centenary Celebra­ tions, in 1S13, a tablet, suitably inscribed was carried up to the summ­ it of this mountain,and firmly bolted to the rock.

Mr J.W.BERGHQPER

Mr Berghofer,has been right ly described as the "Father of the Centenary Celebrations"in 1913,and by his energy and in­ spiring influence was mainly responsible for the success of the functions. He is here seen standing under one of the old swamp oaks,on the banks of Low ther ureek,near the probable site of the encampment of Blax- land and party,in May,lbl3. ] l 4 Z [ h k n k j H i The Great Western Road. 6 9 U

— ------1 Hartley Vale Cemetery This quaint old burying ground is situ­ ated near Mt.York House close to the old line of road which William Cox constructed. Here are buried many of the old pioneers of the district including Pierce Collitt who erected his Inn on the margin of the old road,about 1622.The build ing is still standing,i is now known as "Mount York House" or Farm.

William Cox's Bell This bell,which originally belonged to the warship "Astrea" was in use at "Clarendon" and LiUdgee, and was the property of William Cox. It is elaborately ornamented with "Coats-of-Arms", and floral decorations,and if still in existence,would be clos on 120 years old.

The Great Western Road

"Evans' Grown",Tarana From the summit of this remarkable mountain Evans obtained his first view of the Bathurst Plains.

triage over tne Lett R. The bridge which formerly carried the old s.estern Road across the stream v.as close alongside.

The Great Western Road ^IV

The old & new Bridges . '•‘•'his scene is taken in the neighbourhood of -^ittle Hartley and shows a spot on the main Western road where one of Mit­ chell !s bridges,on the old line of road,or what remains of the structure,is still visible.

The great Western Road

Group picture of the three Explorers.

Pmrttm of Parish of

Map-'of Blaxland* s ttoute Map showing early across the Mountains. roads across the ^ount --- -ains.

Irnden Park

Paris/) of

Map showing the locality of "Caley's Repulse".

The Great v.estern Road

Remains of "Marked Tree" at the foot of Mount Blaxland. A suitable inscription was placed on the stump after the top had been cemented,at the time of the Centenary Celebrations, in 1815.

J TH,S ™«*rVVH,CH M aRKSThT

. 3l*-r MAY 1813 J * w a s hahcd MOUNT BLAXLAND i n § #0*0* or T/tfSXPiOfifp „ N

Inscribed Tablet,placed on the summit of ^ount Blaxland,at or near the s^ot where Gregory Blax- and stood,on May 51st,1615.

The Great Western Road VII i .f -

The "Flogging-stone",Gaptain t>ull1 s Gamp,Linden.

View showing a portion of Cox's road,near Linden.

The Great Western hoad

uopper plate let into the rock on the old lino of road at Mount York. The plate reads,"Pick-marks made "by convicts in widening the road,1614”

View showing a portion of the first cathurst ^oad descending the mountainet Mount ^ork, This was afterwards called "oox s Pass". i56[>WV2 IX The Great Western noad 7 6

Signboard marking the beginning of the track down Mount York,afterwards called "uox s Pass".

xhe Pass down Mount York. $his was on such a severe grade that the Wool teams in the early days had to unload their drays at the foot of the Pass and roll the bales up oy hand ,&icerwarcs taking up the empty dray,and re loading at the top.

X The Great Western Hoed 77

These views,the only photographs in existence,show the ruins of the famous "G-lenroy Stockade",near the uox i^iver. They were taken in 1904,and not a vestige of the old camping place(which was first erected in 1614,on the completion of the first Western R0adJ is now tts be seen.

■ XI I of The Great Western Road 76

"Horseshoe oend" Mt victoria Pass. J-his place was the scene of many & sticking-up incident in the old coaching days. The Pass is now abandoned in favor of a newer and easier grade some distance to the Worth. In the centre of the roadway in this view,the fig­ ures, "1832" were chis =elled in the rock, recording the date when the Pass was opened.

This view shows the site of the Con­ vict encampment,at the foot of Mt Vic­ toria Pass. Previous to a large bush fire which swept the lo­ cality about ten or twelve years ago,the iron rings in the trees,to which the prisoners were chain 'ed,were plainly vis­ ible. This encamp­ ment was in active use for a period of over three years. I H 3 The Great »'estern -^oad x v i J 9

Mt Victoria Pass This view shows the massive embankments constructed in 1832 by convict labour.A hAge valley was en­ tirely filled up with the material ec excavated from the mountain near by,ard the road way formed on top. Over three years was occupied in.this stupendous undertaking.

Another view of the embankment form the bed of the valley. The mass of rock shown in the upper left hand side of the view is part of the mountain whict was quarried away to form the material for the causeway,and is c of the hardest iron­ stone. PAGES

164-196

ARE BLANK rifn e rs Sap ------— ------g j/Railway loCapsrlrec opened 15ft May I88Z / V f * \ V. f/ows into Turon River I I 1 \ *> w<] (| ^ 'm*^^^££&rancb) . \ i f1 V \ showing the various aNemprs to find rhe besf roufe from • i f v % ....\ ~ p V 4 V i ' % » % S i ' i x h ' z x z ?S-. MtVictoria to the Western Country [ r ^ > J p ai'8Qn Siding) «t>v V\ y*- V'i> * '' L 'B'-~V f ' r t * * * «•£ L W. PARISH l l ^ ^ O F \ 7 J r r ^ v O ^ ar ish of COOK rf-ftp- ] M-® *■ • - O i c ' —r ' //' 01 % ByAlexWilsc n . Sydney, 1914. \\ J CULLEN^BULLEN PAF r + r '~ * M i ( i i ov ° f ^ 1 k .

PAR 1 5H OF COOLAMIGAL 5 X+Ator,t*»/I'dB’— '•r-p VJ__ *■ Ctrvfhgs \ % T > ' ' : 1 • j ^ F

^ '; ) i / Scale o Miles. 1 3 ♦ Y Porlland^^ H 1 ; > 7 l f A >4 0 ! Ccmcnr Works 1 j / ------* *p^feR| H / f j r __x---- r } r - ^ k Horn X \ ‘ i ...” ^ i - v V D/ax/artd. Lawson 4 Wentworth / - < • • y « m « m \ K ^ j ; \ < ^ ’s '' c o x / s t * / s - ----S---- 3---- 3-----3 D , /•*) f f e / i/ S 2 3 ...... \ &[ A j &T a A ‘N yTT > L//JC m arked 6y Hume £ Bowen /02Z -^7 1 ^ / f \ / W a V a M rtA zffissxtf& iA ftysf ^ C O U H f T Y , { / ) ] % + A ______c o m a s ...... « r *1 # 9 $ & (VSS. 'Y/ S ir nom as M itchell (R otd opened1836) a o o I m h i 1 - ^ 1 . j V S \ J/y M a o d o x a ) ± y y \ 1 \ ^ Modern roads shown thus ------j J/\ ® y y / f r / < A " / i m m k y v ay operitd i"K PAH'SH mC0M S V I p a r is h // / 1/ irchy^v H -^"VU / >s J / - X a . County boundaries . - - —x—x— (Maranaa ^ * \ W ~ 3 J p / Lcfip V r 'M*r 3 n g a r o ^ | ^ ^ P A R T s ^ □ Q 01^ O ^ ^ f g ^ r 11 ^ * o r ' / / i o \L

j —x C T CD// <0* ^Mwrl ^^CLtAff\ F 0 R e s t V _ 1 / K S m J * 3795- ^ \ v / \ CASTLETON _ IF A L ^ 5 h - - * S ^ » W a l n K s h . I / * ”v 3 n r \ % ^ i v ~ v P retlce p.la,fn; j0 B arhorst-* ‘ 5 5 f ’ \T5~^:»- \ /A V lAiKSssM . j& S m P t 'S ’ l r c wj Meadow nhrt V '-^/ E~^ i i ' f o r t u r s f i. - - X j C p \

1 > ^ 4

* | C y « j k ° s'vJL ^ ^ I 4\a \ y " f / / \ / t lift ^ r .91 X . y L i \ > r^£» i v»v * \» •^oV / w JT'> (f) 4078 feaWi s $ y \ Vs .(WarnMall^^^ PARISH OF «>■'','* /'' M lC la r e n ^ o ) P % '§ ' l \ ^ ^ b ( ? r’!i1l80"',|*rCH \ i ' s II3 m ii. 3479 rr. . fvr^"C l U 's rtii'v N. u.j£° /t/fjL n - lR . O X B u 'w . t f S w s f e c i [ o ros M/rcH £tyL_^ / / ^ ^ i j / ' | : b / h I } p j

^ J^Tftlgarara t 1 k ^ ^ . X$ h 'f y e A /Harlley fc> % t '( ' ( K r W F v ^ /a 1 1 ' j - 4 ^ ' / / | / \ M-Tarana . V . a-\ % l\ // | [ < bS5 s ^ / t : x t L . r V i l l / ' . ''tess& m hf i< C-, ... ? 1 cj *•«>%*, j! ^ U j - L1 ^ its I U ' l \ 3 k r - - r Locks!®/ 22nd April W?? V"^*^ ' -—-^ 1 p a r to Batjjurst 4$ Apnl 1876. / L o r f r » ^ t [ PARISH OF i j I ^ \\ ^CJi!S *V r J L r Lillie y f J 1 i p M m M J ’L id d /C to - < f c p i J | N T Y J/ a i }K% V \ r / / \ O ff v/S. 'v^jTheSfony ftjinf ^ "~S r) 'j '^tcdesbourne dfcyi^fCTORIA RTST™ / j ’.'fEvani Crown orl.ookoul \ i \ . '• f \ / p f Is ~ + 3 F ^ \ % 1 / ;i' \ \ 1 X i /p*^ M 0 / HAp,Lp r IVMay 1868. v*> \ - Jh / \ THQRNSHOPE 1 |

\ 'V ^ 4 , ! jHonaysuckla iP'"]’1 A / .sr f«] ^ 0neT|eP%^ \ '*’ Jli ! 'j ,lls Cox a rriv td b tr t on Christmas Oay jr C i5; j \ il* ! /If \V \ U / Oec 25*!M . Crossedthetoyeron .. —< ^;' f / > J li '. ) ) j / J f * '%vv / Dec:27»W4. finished Me tndgeon }! x y T // \ r r 4 7 „ 1 U- J an ? S t* IBIS, and rfte road to Bathurst , | / /i rf \ A0/ 1 \ s \ % & y T *1 Hi - m s #**. / 1 /\Ji PARISH OF / L 0VV.TH E R y^/ I _ O \ 1 s Duade>rarraJ,fc.t, _ MT& \ n-V ', / (MUsAAnM/J ^JT*' * % > • - , \ l / * 0 - %M ,,r / j i 1 s \ V #>l \L o w th e r. / M n f M * f ia ” .. i ' .X ''- HAWKE SBURY WATER Kl f- A rrived Bathurst S ^ D c c k } l\> ’Ki H £ C fto b jo io n Of " . ■ - y ______^ r