INmusic festival/Julien Duval

* was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY INSTAGRAM* No. 03 JUNE Three music-filled 2015. days by the lake Z Ten years running and by now it's an institution. INmusic on Facebook Festival is even more than that, always in the top rungs of Swing by Europe's music festivals. Everyone who's anyone in the mu- Sljeme sic world has headlined here, from Iggy Pop, Nick Cave and Nature lovers Morrissey to Moby, Prodigy and The Black Keys. During the who are into hiking, jogging first few days of summer, 50 thousand fans of good sound and mountain take over the Island of Youth on Lake. This year, the biking, Zagreb fest runs from June 22 through 24 and showcases an illu- will keep you strious lineup that includes Placebo, Rudimental, Franz Fer- happy. Med- dinand, La Roux ... Plus there's an archipelago of islands with vednica nature park is right at stages, there are beaches, there are camps, and of course your doorstep, heaps of fun. More at inmusicfestival.com. See you at Jarun! a gorgeous city backdrop. The top of , Talkabout known as Slje- me (1033m), is a good goal Croatia to reach if you ZAGREB IS TREN- want to keep DING according to fit while in town. Use the American Express Travel, which placed TV tower as ANJA MUTIĆ your signpost. Writes for New York Magazine, BBC Travel Zagreb ninth on their Built in 1973, and The Washington Post. Follow her at latest list of trendy the 169-meter @everthenomad cities, behind Dubai tower is loca- ted at the very and Richmond. On top and visible the global list, Zagreb from what- Cracking and Poland’s Krakow ever side you are the only cities in approach the Europe, if we don’t mountain. The count Iceland’s Reyk- 6.9km climb Zagreb up lasts around javik at the very top three hours, or 12.30pm, a gloomy late-spring day of the list. less if you’re in Zagreb. Two Japanese tourists #trending in good shape. TEARING DOWN Medvednica stand on a street corner just east has several of Jelačić Square, looking dazed OF THE GRAFFITI mountain huts and hopelessly lost as they stare WALL on Branimirova where you can at a map page of Lonely Planet street is the symbolic taste tradi- Croatia. end of an era. Some tional Zagreb people think it’s a dishes. “Can I help you?” I approach. “Yes, please!” They look relieved, culturecide against an happy that help materialized. iconic monument of 169 I point them in the direction of Zagreb’s urban cultu- meters Karijola, the pizza joint they were re; others are happy after. that the horrible wall riends later asked me: “Did finally disappeared Fyou tell them you wrote the from the city center. book they had in their hands?” Perhaps the graffiti “No, I didn’t. I wanted to be a artist Lunar was right guidebook fairy. I appeared out of when he said that the nowhere and with my magic wand best days of the wall

Zagreb cathedral cathedral Zagreb 108 m showed them the way,” I joked. were already over. I’ve worked on four editions #graffiti of Lonely Planet Croatia, the last of which just came out two months ago. That would make me 1031 m 1031 an expert, an insider. I share my In competition with Bordeaux, Lisbon, Athens, Zagreb secrets with a global rea- Valletta, Riga, Ljubljana, dership of guidebook readers, in Innsbruck, Milan, Brussels hope they will love my hometown *2014 Zagreb was the sixth best destination in Europe as I do. ut then, there are secrets, and Bthere are ---- sshhhh: Secrets. No Uber but I may be a guidebook fairy on a Altitude above sea level Altitude above taxis are gloomy late-spring day but I don’t everywhere share “my” Zagreb with anyone. Zagreb is a small capital but not WORD Zagreb has no Uber yet an easy city to crack. And cracking but taxis are plentiful it is just part of the game, and a ZAGREB HAS 4200 Kaj and affordable. Wave reason why I like to keep those PLACES WHERE or whistle it down, call, secrets. If you discover them all by YOU CAN DRINK (Ka-y) email... anything goes. yourself, without a guidebook (fai- COFFEE and recent What, Was, The oldest, biggest and ry), the city will feel so much more studies have shown Quoi, Qué, most reliable is Radio special. And you’ll be hooked. that each one of us Cosa, Oque Taxi Zagreb. The least goes to one of these expensive and easiest Tip places for coffee at to spot is Cammeo, with Discover the “other Zagreb” by least once a week. black & yellow cars. Eko booking a tour with Secret Zagreb As a matter of fact, Taxi has only hybrid Walks (www.tours.secret-zagreb. we drink five kilos of cars, and baby car seats com) or Funky Zagreb coffee per capita. on request. #taxi (www.funky-zagreb.com). #coffeebreak

Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . Keep in Project . touch! Download your free copy and share: 30° zagreb-touristinfo.hr zagreb4you.com what*where*when* STREET FESTIVAL All the world’s a Watch out, Zagreb will go crazy again – in the best of ways – Stross this summer from June 3 through June 10 this year. That’s when Cest is d’Best, Croatia’s most famous street festival comes to town. Expect heaps of street happenings all over the center, by musicians, singers, dancers, performers and visual artists. Don’t miss the race of garbagemen, the baby marat- hon, the big chess tournament & more. See @cestisdbest.com.

ANCIENT FAIR IN The leafy setting of Stross, paired with its cool vibe, makes this ANDAUTONIA alfresco hangout really unique Fancy a walk around an ancient There will also be art, featu- Roman fair? Head to the Andau- ring free workshops and body tonia Archaeological Park in the painting. There will be offbeat village of Ščitarjevo, 12km from events such a mongrel beauty Zagreb, where you’ll find rema- pageant; the most beautiful ins of an ancient city dating back doggie will win the Strosser to the Roman Empire. Open on title and a delicious meter-long weekends from noon to 6pm sausage. There will be other through October, it showcases shows, such as puppet theater, programs featuring fashion, pets numerous prize contests and and board games. lots more. It all happens in the historic Upper Town, below Lotrščak DANCE WEEK Tower, on a promenade cove- red with leafy trunks of ancient FESTIVAL chestnut trees – a great spot to Zagreb boogies on at the region’s beat the summer heat. To get largest contemporary dance event, Come summer, the roman- here, walk up one of the down- on from May 29 through June 20. tic Strossmayer promenade, town streets or take the funicu- Now in its 32nd year, Dance Week lovingly known to locals as lar. Once you’re up on Stross, Festival takes place at the Zagreb Stross, becomes one big open- grab a drink at one of the many Dance Center ( 10) and a air stage. This year’s season of makeshift bars and mingle with couple of other locations around Summer on Stross kicked off Zagreb’s creatives. If you find town. Tickets are on sale at the on May 29 and lasts through yourself in Zagreb on June 30, Zagreb Dance Center daily from September 2. There will be join in the big party celebrating 1pm till 8pm, or book online at music every day, ranging from the new year – well, half of it. @danceweekfestival.com. jazz and swing to blues to rock. ljetonastrosu.com NEW Live it up at the locals' living room on the main square bistro, a “I wanted a Arestaurant, a place where bar or a club? All together rolled Zagreb locals into one, they’ll can come to say if you ask the relax and just team who resto- have a good red the iconic time,“ Tomo Ricov, program Gradska Kavana manager at Johann Franck (City Cafe) on the northeastern side floor houses a bar with a of the Jelačić Squ- large smoking room and deep are. It’s been in leather armchairs. At the top, the same spot for Šnicl bistro showcases the best as long as anyone vista of Zagreb’s main square can remember and top-notch food by our very but in mid-May it own columnist and Croatia’s reopened under leading chef Mate Janković. a new name, Jo- Mate cooks up miracles in hann Franck. The the open-plan kitchen; book revived landmark ahead. quickly became ohann’s Franck’s master- the locals’ living Jmind of fun who heads up room. The ground the programming is Tomo floor now features Ricov, known as co-owner of a cafe with a stage Pepermint club and organizer for concerts, of top events in town. One of social events and the upcoming happenings to literary evenings, look out for is Fashion Week The cheapest coffee on the Square -- just 9KN! -- in while the first a spot that's cool both day and night Zagreb on June 8 and 9. Watch cartoons & picnic in a park id you know that Croatia is famous brings more than 300 to the big screen. It also has Dfor cartoons? Founded in 1972, a special section dedicated to in video games. is the second oldest Don’t be confused if you run into Mad Hatter somew- festival in the world entirely here in the city! The festival’s dedicated to animation. Winners of theme this year is “Alice in Wonderland.” The fest will the Animafest Grand Prix get a direct also feature a retrospective of the iconic French author qualification for the Oscars and for Michel Ocelot. Cartoon d’Or, the major European Animafest will head out of the cinema to the Zrinjevac animation award. city park on June 12 so prepare your blankets and picnic This year’s program (@animafest.hr) baskets and book your seats for Animafest Open-Air. Animafest Surrogate Dušan Vukotić’s 1961 movie is the first non-American animated film that received an Academy Award, although it was made on the modest premises of Zagreb Film in Vlaška street.

Professor Baltazar The adventures of this Mandlek The festival’s mascot unusual scientist created by Zlatko Grgić is always changing. This year it count among the most successful projects was interpreted by the young of the Zagreb School of Animated Films. author Petra Zlonoga.

June 9 - 14 Cinema Europa, Cinema Tuškanac, Cineplexx Centar Kaptol MONOVIEW For free Screen on the Green festival of music films SOCIALIZING! IT’S REALLY will be held in several city parks, including , A WAY OF LIFE HERE Jarun and Franjo Tuđman Square. Spend a summer ALEX CREVAR evening watching Croatian Travel writer from the United States. His work I CANNOT SURVIVE CROATIA has appeared in The New York Times, and world music flicks under National Geographic Traveler and WITHOUT… walking. I starry skies, and catch Outside magazine @AlexCrevar love walking around musical performances before Zagreb. Compared to screenings. @screen.com.hr my hometown where Finding my most everything is a Yoga Free OM yoga parking lot, there is a classes are held outdoors on rhythm lot to see. History isn’t Sundays from 9am to 10am CODY MCCLAIN something in a book on Bundek Lake throughout efore a city can become BROWN here, it’s in the streets. the summer. No need to book yours, you have to find a AN AMERICAN HERE IS… a spot, just show up with your B mat. #yoga rhythm. HISTORY ISN’T given a sort of special Over the years, I’ve fallen into SOMETHING IN treatment. I feel several routines in Zagreb. A BOOK HERE, like people listen to Ride an old tram Guests of I’ve been a member of the me, just because I’m the TechnIcal Museum can same gym for years. And, IT'S IN THE American. A Croatian hop on an original 1924 tram of course, I’ve frequent- and catch a whiff of olden STREETS can say something times. The tram departs every ed certain drinking holes wise or true, and no Sunday at 9.30am from the with enough regularity that one will listen. But tram stop on Dražen Petrović bartenders know my poison when I talk… it’s like Square. without having to order. shhhhhh everybody, owever, the Croatian cap- an American is spea- ital didn’t become my city Promenade concerts H king about Croatia. Listen. The spirit of the past until I started hiking the trails CROATIAN PUNICA TO ME… is the savior of the comes alive on the streets of on Medvednica Mountain just nation. Mother-in-laws and grandmas Zagreb every weekend until north of town. To this day, keep us fed and well-behaved. They are September. Enjoy waltzes, when I am anywhere else in the country’s moral compass. polkas and chansons at the world, I can close my eyes PROPUH (DRAFT) IS… Zrinjevac on Saturdays so stupid. There is no between 11am and 1pm, and and think of Zagreb and the scientific basis for how indoor moving on Sundays between hike to the Puntijarka moun- air can inflame my brain. 10.30am and 12.30pm at the tain hut is what I imagine. EVEN THOUGH CROATS DRINK COFFEE FOR TWO HOURS… viewpoint in . But the real beauty is just how they still get stuff done. A lot is actually #timemachine easy it is to hike in Zagreb. done over coffee, and it’s how people perfect day starts early. In spend their free time. Which is much Amy downtown apartment, better than watching reality TV or I stuff my backpack with an whatever we do in America. extra shirt, a rain jacket, and water. I put on my hiking boots. Then I take two trams Zagreb’s most (for a total of 20 minutes) to MUSEUM OF the head of the Puntijarka up-and-coming CONTEMPORARY ART trail. Now I am alone. Nothing Admission to the Museum is in front of me but woods street, Martićeva free every first Wednesday and mountain. I adjust my ten-minute music nightly. of the month. Exhibit trekking sticks and walk up— Aamble east of Down the street openings are free, too. sometimes straight up—for the Jelačić Squa- to your right, look an hour. Sweat rolls down my re, Martićeva is on out for the new face and soaks my shirt. Birds the move. Back in Croatian Design Basketball god chirp from beech trees. the 1980s it was a Superstore, the At the top, the mountain hut is drab street lined one-stop-shop Across like a secret clubhouse … if your from the with storefronts for the cream of Technical clubhouse served coffee and selling auto parts Croatian design. Museum, strudel. Here, high above my but starting a Further down to next to the city, I sit and meditate, bare- few years ago, its the left, Divas is a railroad that chested in the morning sun. western stretch former boutique splits the city in half, on Tip: became the place turned boho the square to be. The buzz coffeehouse with From the Draškovićeva tram stop, with the glass take the 14 or the 8 to the end of starts with the pa- rustic accents tower, you’ll vement tables on and mismatched spot a statue the 15, which is a five-minute walk to the head of the trail. Trg Hrvatskih Ve- chairs. Walk down of a man with likana, the square and to the right a basketball. They called with the fountain. of a leafy park him vunder- Moving on, you’ll there’s Booksa, kind and come to Mojo on a book club-café, Mozart (that’s Coolture why the the left, a smoky cultural hub and OK, YOU’VE HAD FUN basement bar with the first spot to corner cafe is called Amadeus). Dražen CLUBBING, you've checked out artwork-plastered have opened on Petrović, the biggest star of the bookstores, theaters and brick walls, a wide Martićeva. The- European basketball, was cinemas but you still want more range of flavored re’s more but we’ll born a winner but his tragic culture? rakija and live let you explore. death in 1993 stopped his conquest of America. In just INMUSIC FESTIVAL The tenth three seasons, from 1984 to edition will be held from June 22 1987, he scored Cibona the to June 24 at Jarun. This year's title of European champion lineup includes Placebo, FFS twice. He went to the NBA (Franz Ferdinand & Sparks), Pao- via Real Madrid. Dražen’s lo Nutini, La Roux, Black Rebel last achievement was the Motorcycle Club, Of Monsters silver he scored playing and Men, Metal, Death Cab For against the Dream Team Cutie... @inmusicfestival.com with Jordan, Bird and Magic FANTASTIC ZAGREB The Festi- at the Olympics in 1992. He val of Fantastic Film will be held is in every single Basketball from June 26 to July 4 in several Hall of Fame. locations in and around town, The Dražen Petrović Muse- including the spectacular Med- um is in the Cibona Tower. vedgrad fortress from the 13th For more, including opening century. The right place for fans hours, see of science fiction, horror, thriller @drazenpetrovic.net and experimental film. Not a fairytale, it's a @fantastic-zagreb.com AUGUSTE RODIN EXHIBITION real-deal lakeside castle "Rodin in Meštrović's Zagreb" Want to skip town for a N QuiZG is the exhibition currently on at fling in a lakeside castle the Art Pavilion on Zrinjevac. 1. How many times did Croa- It showcases around 70 works surrounded by thick tia’s ski champions Janica and by the famous French sculptor, woods? Sounds like a Ivica Kostelić win Snow Queen, including his masterpiece Medi- fairytale but it’s a real 90 min the World Cup alpine ski race tation or The Inner Voice! #art from Zagreb place, just 80km north on Sljeme mountaintop? SLASH LIVE Saul Hudson, aka of Zagreb. The castle of a) 3 Slash, one of the top ten players Trakošćan lies less than b) 0 of electric guitar according to c) 1 90 minutes on the A2 highway. It show- Time magazine and the engine of the cases the best of the Middle Ages in 2. The longest street in legendary a museum that spans more than 1000 Zagreb is? Guns N' square meters. Take a ride in one of the a) Radnička Roses is row boats or play the b) Branimirova coming to two-centuries-old c) Ilica Šalata with piano. Check out The Conspir- 3. In which year did Slavoljub ators on June the virtual tour on Penkala, the famous inventor of 26. Ticket @trakoscan.hr. pencils from Zagreb, construct price: 190KN. the first Croatian aircraft? #concert a) 1904 OLDTIMER RALLY ZAGREB The Admission b) 1910 for adults 30KN, 30th Oldtimer Rally will be held c) 1913 the wee ones, on June 6 and June 7. On the

15KN first day, vehicles will be on

3. a 1910. It still flies. flies. still It 1910. a

5660 meters; ANSWERS meters; 5660 display until noon in front of the

ca was the longest for a century with with century a for longest the was ca Technical Museum and on the

-

Radnička road with 6502 meters. Ili meters. 6502 with road Radnička second day, in front of the Croa- 2. a a

times, Janica came third once; once; third came Janica times, tian National Theater. Then they 1.

b None. Ivica came second three three second came Ivica None. b hit the streets. #oldtimer LAKESIDE FUN TIMES AT JARUN Ban Jelačić Square Zagreb is at its most beautiful in the summer, especially at Jarun, the ‘sea of Zagreb.’ Lined with beaches, the two connected swimming lakes, the Big Lake and the Little Lake, have six small islands – Island of the University Games, Trešnjevka Island, Island of Croatian Youth, Wildlife Island, Rowers’ Island and the Island of Love. There’s also a rowing track, and a 6km paved road that circles the lake. Jarun is Zagrebians’ favorite spot for all forms of recreation, from swimming and jogging to roller skating and cycling. The lake is also lined with bars, restaurants and clubs. So if you haven’t left for the Adriatic yet, stick around for some lakeside fun. Don’t miss the alternative transport system inside the museum, the 32-meter-long Double Slide, an installation by Belgian artist Carsten Höller

River Sava INmusic Festival is the largest InMusic open-air music festival in Hippodrome Croatia. On from June 22 to Festival June 24, this year it celebrates Bundek its 10th anniversary Bundek Lake Is a popular Museum of Contemporary Art (MSU) showcases a children’s collection of art works by leading contemporary artists playground with from Croatia and the world. Right now, you can catch an swimming beaches Nudist beach exhibit on the design and architecture of Bauhaus and a summer stage The city’s funkiest food fair TIPS&

Sanjin Kaštelan that was born in an attic TRICKS ZAGREB TAXI HELP +385 1 1777 112 EXCHANGE RATES, (BUY RATE, JUNE 1, 2015) € 1 7,60; $ 1 6,92; JPY 100 5,59 CAN I DRINK WATER FROM THE PUMPS? The old iron pumps, popularly called 'Iron Franceki' remain an image of childhood for many el- derly citizens of Zagreb. Today the Pimp My Pump art group paint them over with symbols of popular culture. And, yes, the water is good for drinking. THE NEATEST PUBLIC TOILET IN ZAGREB The public loo on the is free to use, and it's very neat. You will find it just behind the newspaper stand.

t all started turned into a place SMALL TAILOR REPAIRS in an attic. A where kindred If you need small tailor I repairs, pick one of two really funky attic, spirits meet, taste tailors (Mega-Cif or Cik with finger-lickin’ yummy treats at Cak) in Prilaz Sestara Baković, foods. A love the source, learn the small passageway that project of two Je- about wholesome connects Masarykova and lenas – Jelena Iva food and take Varšavska streets. MATE JANKOVIĆ Nikolić and Jelena goodies home. LOOKING FOR VINYL? Mikin – Mali Plac “Our wish is to Vinyl records are rare these days Chef, columnist, TV star and Anthony but Zagreb has a few spots Bourdain's host whenever he's here. You na Tavanu (Little personally con- that sell them. Old re- can find Mate at Gradska Kavana Market in the At- nect producers cords and second-hand tic) was born back and people who CDs and DVDs are Sound in 2012, when want to know available at Dobri Zvuk they decided to about where their (Preradovićeva 24), Vinyl bar create a sustain- food comes from, (Bogovićeva 3) and on Sunday of summer morning at the antique fair on able platform for and to make this the British Square. A little fur- hy would someone presenting local a fun and creative ther from the center you’ll find Wchoose to spend time in organic food. So event,” says Jelena Freebird (Tratinska 50), Roxy Zagreb when visiting Croatia? each Saturday the Mikin. The market (Savska 34), Magic Records I often asked myself that que- Jelenas invited became so popular (Horvaćanska 166) and Karma stion. When thinking about a small producers that it now travels Music Shop (Podgorska 3). vacation, you usually picture from Zagreb’s sur- around town, CHOW DOWN AT 5 AM a nice beach, a cool drink in roundings and be- changing locales, The best way to wrap up your hand as you sit in the shade yond to come and which always re- night out is with greasy ćevap- counting waves and watching sell their edible main offbeat: from ćići, served with onion. For the best, head to Dolac. the horizon. You pray for a wares in the attic an abandoned mil- little summer breeze to cool of Sinkovićeva 8, itary hospital and WINE TIP you down while you sip your a ten-minute walk a courtyard café to If you like white wine, ice-cold beer and think about up from the cathe- a warehouse club try graševina, the most common Croatian white grape variety or jumping into the sea. Sounds dral. Soon enough, and a contempo- Istrian malvazija. If red is your like my ideal summer after- the market be- rary art gallery. thing, go for plavac mali, espe- noon, which is why I never came a movement. Find out where to cially great from the Dingač and understood why someone wo- From a pet project catch them next at Postup wine regions. uld spend a single day of their instigated by the www.mali-plac. RENT YOUR OWN vacation in a hot city while pair of Jelenas it org/eventi/. those relaxing afternoons are TWO WHEELS • Hemp honey by Mother Bikes can be rented at happening somewhere else. Don’t miss: 13 locations around the Well, that was until I spent my + Earth Sacred Plants • Lemon curd (with city, half of which are first summer in Zagreb. lemons from Vis island) by Okusi Hrvatsku/Ta- in the center. Just look out for will never forget that ste Croatia • Roasted soy (non-GMO, grown in a Nextbike station or check summer in the city. It was Slavonia) by OPG Didaković • Home-brewed out nextbike.hr. The first half I an hour is free; one hour costs not too hot, just about right Kajfakat ale by Ajncug & Zblajh • Handmade 8KN; five hours (and up to 24 to sit on one of many terraces pasta with cocoa and carob by Moja Pasta hours) goes for 79KN. enjoying espresso and reading • Water kefir, a probiotic by Tibicos newspapers. Or just plain WEEKEND LULL people-watching through the Most offices and shops close on Saturday afternoon. Shopping dark lens of your sunglasses. 4 am malls on the outskirts of town Going out for a drink in remain open. For info, tourists the evening and seeing the THERE ARE NO TABOOS can always come to the Tourist city full of positive energy Information Centers. blew me away. It had such a AT THE NEW TABOO laid-back atmosphere, with MORE INFO Located at the entrance to the people enjoying their drinks Importanne parking garage, while their conversations and this hot new club spreads over three laughter created a buzz that I floors. In tandem with Gjuro 2 (anoth- instantly fell in love with. The er Zagreb club), Taboo hosts parties city was burning, in a great on Fridays (18+) and Saturdays (21+) way. That’s when I fell in love that go till 6am. The most stubborn of with summer in Zagreb. clubbers and those who like to boogie k, I still love my beach, after buying groceries for Sunday Ocold beer, summer breeze lunch can party on at the afterhours afternoons but do I love that that goes till noon. #clubbing buzz the city has. Sit on the APPS terrace of one of the bars in center, have a glass of white wine and listen to the sound Meet in Zagreb Zagreb of summer in Zagreb. You will Zagreb be There Places love it. I know I do.