ISTANBULFALL & WINTER GUIDE 2011 – 2012

The best places to eat, sleep and play in this fall and winter

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Yes, Constantinople has been gone a long time, but Istanbul has charms that evoke both a bygone era and the seductions of the modern world. In the old city, time seems to have stopped: vendors push handcarts, shoeshine boys vie for your money and women dress in the modest Muslim tradition. Yet PACKING TIPS practically next door, you can find the ultra chic bars and dance clubs of the Beyo˘glu and the trendy restaurants of Ortaköy.

Istanbul straddles and Asia literally—the Bosphorus . 1 “For a better understanding and to catch the sentiment of the city, try reading divides the city across the two continents—and figuratively, as Orhan Pamuk’s autobiography Istanbul: the only city in the world that has been capital to a Christian Memories and the City. You will not and then an Islamic nation. Roman antiquities, Byzantine regret it.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul treasures and traces of the Ottoman Empire await your 2. Traveling with children? “Get the Time Out guide to Istanbul. It is by far the best discovery. Most tourists find themselves on the European city guide, and it has a section on activities side, in Sultanahmet, the old city, which contains the Islamic for kids.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul treasures of the city: the Blue Mosque, the Topkapi Palace and 3. If you have a six-digit pin on your bank the Hagia Sophia. card, consult with your bank before leaving, as “you need a four-digit pin Istanbul’s summers are hot, humid and relatively free of number to use ATMs in .”— TripAdvisor Member precipitation, with temperatures averaging 82ºF. Winters are colder; although the temperature rarely drops below freezing, snowfall is not out of the question. tripadvisor.com 2 Top VIEWS

ISTANBUL’S BEST VIEWS “At the end of the day, you must find one of Kiz Kulesi, Istanbul’s “Maiden’s Tower, For “killer views and a great cup of coffee, be the hilltops (or the rooftop of your hotel) is over 2400 years old. While it can be inspired by the scenery at Pierre Loti Café to watch this exciting and magical city as it seen from any western point along the and go home to write that best-selling novel. flickers with lights, a jewel in the night.”— Bosphorus, its interior begs to be seen. A Loti is said to have conceived his literary TripAdvisor Member sunset viewed from this location will be the masterpiece, Aziyadé, while gazing down cherry on top of your trip to Istanbul.”— at the expansive views of two continents’ TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul shores and the estuary that separates Kiz Kulesi, off the coast of Üsküdar them.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul Pierre Loti Café, Gumussuyu Caddesi, Balmumcu Sokak, Eyup, 212 581 2696 Where to PLAY TOP 10 Attractions . 1 Hagia Sophia Museum / Church (Ayasofya), Sultanahmet, Eminonu District, 6. Sultanahmet District 212 522 1750 7. Istanbul Modern Museum, Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Karakoy, 2. Istanbul Archaeology Museum (Arkeoloji Muzesi), Osman Hamdi Bey, 212 334 7300 Sultanahmet, 212 520 7740 8. Suleymaniye Mosque, near Istanbul University 3. Basilica Cistern, Sultanahmet, 212 522 1259 9. Eyup Sultan Mosque (Eyup Sultan Camii), Camii Kebir Caddesi 4. Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii), Sultanahmet, 212 518 1330 10. Topkapi Palace, Gulhane Park, near Sultanahmet Square, 212 522 4422 5. Kariye Museum (The Chora Church), Kariye Cami Sokak, Edirnekapy

FAMILIES “A trip to Princes’ Island by ferry was the “Stroll through Miniaturk, a park full of “For adults or kids, Rahmi M. Koç activity most enjoyed by the children. No scale models of important buildings and Museum is not to be missed. There is cars on the island, so you get about by tourist sites from all over Turkey, and a few a real submarine that you can visit, old horse and buggy. Interesting old houses and Ottoman buildings that are outside Turkey. locomotives, the oldest ferry, old trams of excellent waterside restaurants made our It is the world’s largest miniature park.”— Istanbul and antique cars from Ford-T to day trip there a pure joy for all concerned.”— TripAdvisor Member, Ankara antique Rolls Royces, plus steam engines TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul Miniaturk, Imrahor Caddesi, Sutluce, and more.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul Princes’ Island, ferry leaves from Eminonu port 212 222 2882 Rahmi M. Koç Museum, Hasköy Cad. 27, Hasköy, 212 369 6600

“…a pure joy” ROMANCE The Dolmabahce Palace is “not as “Take a picnic or get snacks and drinks at “The most romantic place in Istanbul is crowded as the Topkapi. It has a perfect kiosks dotted around the Belgrad Forest. the Ciragan Palace. It has a very nice guided tour and interesting Western-style Jogging trails, hiking paths are lovely here, as jazz bar on the Bosphorus. You can see furnished rooms. It’s a quiet and romantic are the wonderful springs, and you can hear all the mosques illuminated. I would like place.”—TripAdvisor Member, Brussels, the birds that are often drowned out by traffic my boyfriend to propose to me there.”— Belgium in the city.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul TripAdvisor Member, Athens, Greece Dolmabahce Palace (Dolmabahce Sarayi), Belgrad Forest, Bahçeköy Ciragan Bar, Çiragan Palace, Cad. 32, Dolmabahçe Caddesi , 212 236 9000 Besiktas, 212 326 4646 Call an Expedia Travel Specialist now 877 633 3716 tripadvisor.com 3 Where to PLAY

BUDGET “Take an old-styled tramway to Moda, or walk At Misir Carsisi, “you can buy the usual “The Blue Mosque is the most beautiful the shore side along the recently completed tourist fares for less than at the Grand building I have ever seen. The landscaping quay. This excursion is rarely covered by tour Bazaar. Check out the 350-year-old ceiling, and gardens surrounding it are gorgeous guides, but you’ll be able to glimpse the scenic the maze of alleys filled with haggling and colorful. Admission is FREE. This enclave of Topkapi and the famed Golden merchants, and be transported back to is an awe-inspiring place of worship.”— Horn.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul the famed trade center of 17th century TripAdvisor Member, Durham, N.C. Moda Quay Istanbul.”— TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul The Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet, Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Bazaar), behind the 212 518 1330 (for museum information only) Yeni Cami Mosque ADVENTURE Want to learn how to belly-dance? “Visit Home to many festivals and concerts, “All along the Sea of Marmara are many areas Istanbul Dreams, a shop selling belly dance “Parkorman is a beautiful place to spend a with workout equipment, but you have to go accessories. They will know of any classes and day with your family. It is a very big forest to the Asian side. This is also the best place will be able to organize it for you. You would with a swimming pool and restaurant. You for jogging or cycling, for miles and miles!”— also be able to buy your hip belt there.”— can relax, eat, enjoy nature.”—TripAdvisor TripAdvisor Member, Kayakoy, Turkey TripAdvisor Member, Worthing, U.K. Member, Athens, Greece Waterfront, Sea of Marmara Istanbul Dreams, Alemdar Mah, Incili Cavus Parkorman, Büyükdere Caddesi, , Sok, No :33/5 Ates Pasaji Sultanahmet, 212 328 2000 212 514 5894 TripAdvisor members have posted more than 8,000,000 traveler photos on the “Relax, eat, enjoy nature.” site. The good, the bad and the very candid. It’s almost like being there!

EDUCATIONAL/HISTORICAL We were “very impressed with the “One of the most enduring symbols of “The Hippodrome was the scene of Archaeology Museum. It is huge, with a Turkey is that of the Whirling Dervishes. Byzantine chariot races, athletic events, lot of monuments, including the Alexander The Contemporary Lovers of Mevlana victory celebrations and political activities Sarcophagus.”—TripAdvisor, Bottrop, organize a Whirling Dervish performance of the old city. Today, one can also see Germany every Friday and Sunday evening at the the Obelisk from Egypt, the Serpentine Istanbul Archaeology Museum (Arkeoloji Sirkeci Train Station.”—TripAdvisor Column from Delphi, the Fountain of Muzesi), Topkapi Palace, 212 520 7740 Member, Istanbul Wilhelm II and the Colossus.”—TripAdvisor Sirkeci Train Station (Exhibition Hall, Member Platform 1), 212 458 8834 Hippodrome (Atmeydani), Sultanahmet RELAXATION The Hagia Sophia Museum is “The Bosphorus Tour ferry sails north from “The Suleymaniye Hamam was such a “breathtaking. Its unique architecture and Istanbul, up the Bosphorus, almost to the relaxing experience and well worth the size, the golden, gilded geometrical and Black Sea, then back again. Along the way money. The staff were really nice and made flower-motif mosaic, the wisely appointed it stops at the small ferry ports that dot the us feel at ease. Have a tea in the ‘wise man’ windows that allow the light of the sun to coast. The landscape you see is wooded hills, area and book the free shuttle in advance illuminate specific places, the huge seraglio dilapidated waterside estates of a different to be returned to your hotel.”—TripAdvisor and many more features make Hagia era, sleek modern estates very much of Member, Atyrau, Kazakhstan Sophia the top sight to visit in Istanbul!”— the present and the occasional palace and Suleymaniye Hamam, Mimar Sinan Caddesi, TripAdvisor Member, Athens, Greece castle.”—TripAdvisor Member, Fair Lawn, N.J. No. 20, Suleymaniye, 212 519 5569 Hagia Sophia Museum, Sultanahmet, Bosphorus Tour Ferry, leaves from 212 522 1750 Eminonu’s Dock 2 Call an Expedia Travel Specialist now 877 633 3716 tripadvisor.com 4 What’s the TOUR How to Get Around

“Taxis are the best transportation to get around Istanbul. They are For transportation from Ataturk airport, “you have three options: inexpensive, have meters and are easy to find, most of the time.”— airport taxis, which are reliable, airport shuttle buses going to several TripAdvisor Member, Raleigh, N.C. main destinations and the Metro.”—TripAdvisor Member Take a “bus tour of Istanbul from the Sultanahmet. (An audio guide “Around the newer part of Istanbul, the new subway system is very is provided in English). We got to see a few places we would not have nice and safe. The subway runs from Taksim Square, through Nisantasi otherwise—and this is always a great introduction to any city.”— (where there are many elegant stores) to (where more modern TripAdvisor Member, Edmonton, Alberta shopping awaits you).”—TripAdvisor Member, Raleigh, N.C.

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FAMILIES At Rumeli Cafe, “the staff is great, and “If you want to have a totally enjoyable, For the “best pizza in town,” try Miss Pizza, service is attentive. Our salads were family-friendly, low-key experience with “a small pizzeria with all kinds of unusual excellent, and the kids loved their clean, well-prepared, well-seasoned food, pizzas.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul steak—it was lit on fire in front of them!”— a thoughtful menu, attentive waitstaff and Miss Pizza, Akarsu Cad. Havyar Sokak. No: TripAdvisor Member, Atlanta, Ga. the best espresso-based coffees to be 5 Cihangir Beyoglu, 212 251 3278 – 79 Rumeli Cafe, Ticarethane Sokak 8, found, run, don’t walk to Cafe Rumist.”— Sultanahmet, 212 512 0008 TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul Cafe Rumist, Akbiyik Caddesi No.7, “An exquisite Sultanahmet, 212 458 6641 culinary event” ROMANCE “Aloran is an elegant restaurant which “The people at Yengec Fish Restaurant are Dinner at the Imbat Restaurant is “an serves excellent food, the best place for fish experts and know how to get their hands exquisite culinary event. While seated in the a romantic dinner. The Testi Kebab is a on the freshest fish and how to cook it. Their elegant and intimate dining room, sweeping spectacle for the eyes and the palate!”— food was among the best I’ve ever had. The views of the Bosphorus and Marmara Sea TripAdvisor Member, Milan, Italy outdoor ambiance was authentic and romantic. delighted us through three courses of the Aloran Restaurant, Akbiyik Caddesi Adliye Not fake and sugary but in a genuine way, most delicious and beautifully prepared food Sokak No. 11, Cankurtaran, 212 458 8528 where you felt you were enjoying food with I’ve ever eaten.”—TripAdvisor Member, family.”—TripAdvisor Member, New Jersey Berlin, Germany Yengec Fish Restaurant, Telli Odalar Sok. Imbat Restaurant, Orient Express Hotel, BUDGET No: 6, Kumkapi, 212 516 3227 Sirkeci Hudavendigar, 212 520 7161 “You’ve got to get a lick of arguably the “We never broke the bank at Albura. They “The price at Malkoc Restaurant was very best ice cream in Turkey at Ali Usta have a special flaming pottery dish that good compared with other places in the Dondurmaci. For $1, you get to try one of was tasty and a bit of silly food theater. But area. The lamb kebab was the best we had the 30-plus flavors he’s served, come rain hey, it’s on fire and was cheap and good.”— in Istanbul, and the service was so friendly or shine, in as many years.”—TripAdvisor TripAdvisor Member, Brooklyn, New York that we went back the following day!”— Member, Istanbul Albura Café-Bar Restaurant, Yeni Akbiyik TripAdvisor Member, London, England Dondurmaci Ali Usta, Moda Caddesi No: Caddesi No: 26, Sultanahmet, 212 517 9031 Malkoc Restaurant, Akbiyik Caddesi, 264, 216 414 1880 Cankurtaran Call an Expedia Travel Specialist now 877 633 3716 tripadvisor.com 5 to WHERE eat

HEALTH-CONSCIOUS Boasting a “small and varied vegetarian As Istanbul’s first pure vegetarian restaurant, Have dinner at “Zencefil, a vegetarian menu” of soups, salads and Turkish dishes, Saf boasts a menu full of vegan, gluten-free restaurant not far from Taksim Square. The Parsifal Vejetaryen Restoran is “ovo and dairy-free cuisine. Each dish is served food was fresh and delicious—all tasty, lacto and vegan friendly.”—TripAdvisor “raw” to preserve the flavor and nutrition. hot and yummy. We were way too full for Member, Istanbul The restaurant also has a wine bar that dessert.”—TripAdvisor Member, Brooklyn, Parsifal Vejetaryen Restoran, Kurabiye Sok. specializes in unique organic cocktails. New York 23, Beyoglu, 212 245 2588 Saf, Club Sporium, Cumhuriyet Caddesi Zencefil, Kurabiye Sok. 3, Taksim, Beyoglu, No. 4/8, Besiktas, 212 282 7946 212 244 4082

“Each course was a new delight!” HIDDEN GEMS “Yes, Beyti is really worth the drive from “The Asitane is an Ottoman restaurant, Located in “an unassuming setting,” Çiya downtown. Great service and kebabs at and many of the recipes date back to the Kebap is “an expert restaurant with their best - far, far away from standard 15th and 16th centuries. For a refreshingly overwhelming choice of kebaps. Tourists döners. Finding tastier mutton would be different approach to food, tastes and often miss it, but locals who are in the know very difficult, if not out right impossible. atmosphere, this is the place to go. There swear by it. More than 70 kebaps are listed There are very few celebrities, from movie were so many interesting dishes. Each on the menu, though generally 20 – 30 are stars to heads of state, who have not visited course was a new delight!”—TripAdvisor available.”—TripAdvisor Member, Bangkok, this place. In other words, you will be in Member, Glasgow, Scotland Thailand a good company.”—TripAdvisor Member, Asitane Restaurant, Kariye Camii Sokak Çiya Kebap, Caferag˘a Mah. Günes¸libahçe Sk. Stockholm, Sweden No. 6, Edirnekapi, 212 534 8414 No. 44 Kadıköy, 216 418 5115 Beyti Restaurant, Orman Caddesi 8 , 212 663 2990

SPECIAL EVENTS

Watch as the very best in women’s tennis compete for over $4 million Explore a world of Turkish literature at the Istanbul Book Fair, in prize money and the title of world champion during the WTA where hundreds of publishing houses present thousands of books for Championship. (October 25 – 30) perusal. The theme of this year’s fair is “Hope: Dream or Reality?,” WTA Championship, Sinan Erdem, http://www.wtachampionships.com and the Writer of Honor is Ferit Edgü. (November 12 – 15) Istanbul Book Fair, Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Center, Discover the latest cutting edge works from over six thousand artists, 212 886 6843 from seasoned professionals to up-and-coming students, exhibiting their photography, painting, sculpture and more at the annual Artist Take in a show at the Istanbul Film Festival, featuring hundreds of fair. (November 12 – 20) Turkish and international films, combining new films with cherished Artist, Tüyap Fair Convention and Congress Center, 212 867 1100, classics. The festival screens over 200 films in 20 different categories http://www.istanbulsanatfuari.com and records an attendance of almost 90,000 viewers each year. (April) Istanbul Film Festival, Various venues, 212 334 0700, http://www.iksv.org/film

Call an Expedia Travel Specialist now 877 633 3716 tripadvisor.com 6 Where to STAY

FAMILIES “Sultanahmet Suites is situated in a “We cannot praise the Hotel Sapphire “We stayed at Ada Istanbul with kids and residential area, yet is only a five to ten- highly enough. Everything was handled in a found the hotel to be perfect for a family stay. minute walk to the tourist zone. We were warm and proficient manner by the friendly Great views from the rooms and the rooftop, greeted by the owner, who was immediately staff. They have free wi-fi, a subterranean where a sumptuous breakfast is served.”— concerned that our seven-year-old have milk pool and a buffet with enough choices to TripAdvisor Member, Sharjah, UAE and juice. We immediately felt at home.”— keep a teenager happy!”—TripAdvisor Ada Hotel, Binbirdirek Mahallesi Sehit TripAdvisor Member, Surrey, U.K. Member, Brisbane, Australia Mehmetpasa, Yokusu Sokak No: 30, Sultanahmet Suites, Kucuk Ayasofya Mah. Hotel Sapphire, Ibni Kemal Caddesi No.14 Sultanahmet, 212 518 8475 Ozbekler Sok. No: 4, 1 Sultanahmet – Sirkeci, 212 520 5686 Kadirga, 212 638 8022 Have questions about Istanbul? Get insider advice from local experts in our “I couldn’t wait to forums. The majority of questions are go back!” answered within 24 hours. ROMANCE “The high standard of the facilities and “Heaven, thy name is 5Oda! Upon arrival, we “We have stayed in lots of hotels and the comfort of Sirkeci Konak was matched were immediately oriented to some of the Hotel Sultania is one of the very best, a with details and thoughtful touches that best restaurants, art venues and sights in the magical hotel in a magical city. The room made it a very special place. No wonder area. Our room was a quiet haven, outfitted was lovely - very atmospheric and romantic. I couldn’t wait to go back!”—TripAdvisor with first class beds, linens and mattresses. All the staff - waiters, reception, concierge, Member, Athens, Greece But, the most charming part? For breakfast, everyone - could not do enough to help Sirkeci Konak, Taya Hatun Sokak No: 5, you ring up, and a divine spread is brought to us.”—TripAdvisor Member, Stoke-on-Trent, Sirkeci, 212 528 4344 your room and arrayed on your dining table.”— U.K. TripAdvisor Member, Cambridge, Mass. Hotel Sultania, Ebusuud Caddesi, Mehmet 5Oda, Sahkulu Bostan Sokak No:16 Beyoglu, Murat Sok. No: 4, Sirkeci, 212 520 7788 212 252 7501 BUDGET “We spent two nights at the Hotel Seraglio, “The Orient Express Hotel is very good You’ll receive “great value for little money and it was fabulous. Everything about our value for money. Very helpful staff and very at Inter Hotel. Everything was great: the stay was excellent. The hotel is just big well located in the heart of the historical location, the price, the room size, the enough to have privacy while still small part of the city, just walking distance from cleanliness, the personnel. You won’t find enough to enjoy the utmost in service.”— the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and the anything better in this price category in TripAdvisor Member, California Hagia Sophia.”—TripAdvisor Member, Istanbul and hardly in a higher one.”— Hotel Seraglio, Amiral Tafdil Sokak No. 28 Bucharest, Romania TripAdvisor Member, Madrid, Spain Sultanahmet, 212 516 7676 Orient Express Hotel, Hudavendigar Inter Hotel, Mithatpasa Cad. Buyuk Haydar Caddesi No.34, Sirkeci, 212 520 7161 Efendi Sok. No: 29 Beyazit, 212 518 3535 LUXURY “The White House Hotel and its staff “This was our second time at the Four “Hotel Amira has everything going for exceeded our expectations in every way. Seasons, and again, it achieved perfection. it—great location, rooftop lounge, excellent They arranged a pickup and dropoff to the Great rooms and bathrooms, flawless breakfast and nice rooms. But, none of airport. They arranged a wonderful boat service and beautiful, communal spaces. that makes any difference when compared trip on the Bosphorus. They did it all and It’s pricey, but you’re paying for the to the service, which is absolutely the always with a smile. Stay here but leave a superb service and the beautiful views.”— best. The staff are what make this hotel room for us on our next visit!”—TripAdvisor TripAdvisor Member, London, U.K. wonderful.”—TripAdvisor Member, Maui, Member, Kinvara, Ireland Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus, Hawaii White House Hotel Istanbul, Alemdar Ciragan Caddesi No. 28, Besiktas, Hotel Amira Istanbul, Kucuk Ayasofya Mah, Mahallesi Catalcesme Sokak No.21, 212 381 4000 Mustafapasa Sok. No:79, 212 516 1640 Sultanahmet, 212 526 0019 Call an Expedia Travel Specialist now 877 633 3716 tripadvisor.com 7 Where to STAY

HIDDEN GEMS “The Senatus Hotel is one of Istanbul’s “Four of us stayed at the Witt over New Dersaadet “is a simple, tastefully best kept secrets! Very clean, modern, Years and were spoiled rotten. The decorated and highly attractive Ottoman inexpensive, and has the quality and penthouses have the most stunning views of building, ideal for travelers who appreciate standards of a five star hotel. I personally the city. The manager, Onur, is an absolute local flavors and a personal touch. What a enjoyed the shower with its rainforest gem. If you like late night clubbing, ask great little gem!”—TripAdvisor Member, shower head and glass enclosure.”— about Onur’s club—very cool indeed!”— Berlin, Germany TripAdvisor Member, Frederick, Maryland TripAdvisor Member, Qatar Dersaadet, Kucuk Ayasofya Cad. Dersaadet, The Senatus Hotel, Akbiyik Caddesi No. 40, Witt Istanbul Suites, Defterdar Yokusu No. Kucuk Ayasofya Cad., Kapiagasi Sokak No: Sultanahmet, 212 458 5866 26, Cihanger, Beyoglu, 212 393 7900 5, Sultanahmet, 212 458 0760

“...one of Istanbul’s best kept secrets!”

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