February 2016
Gamay, Two Ways An Oregon tip of the cap to Beaujolais should put this red on your radar. BY PAUL GREGUTT AND ROGER VOSS
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For fans of lighter-style reds, Gamay is a go-to grape, and one that’s on the move. Inspired by the wines of Beaujolais (and the Loire Valley), a small but dedicated group of Oregon winemakers are expanding the red wine repertoire of the Willamette Valley. Gamay in Oregon Willamette Valley has long been recognized among the world’s premier growing regions for Pinot Noir. But an important Burgundian grape remains on the periphery—Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc, the red grape of Beaujolais, where it has thrived since the early 17th century. This is not the same grape as California’s Gamay Beaujolais (an early-ripening clone of Pinot Noir) or Napa Gamay (which is actually Valdiguié). Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc (commonly referred to as simply Gamay) produces wines with high acidity and vibrant fruit flavors. It’s often made using the carbonic maceration process, where whole grape clusters are fermented. Doug Tunnell (Brick House) was one of the first to explore the variety’s potential in Oregon, planting it in the early 1990s. As a Paris-based TV correspondent for CBS, Tunnell “had spent a good deal of time in Beaujolais,” he says. “Its rolling hills, warm summers and easygoing country folk reminded me very much of the Willamette Valley where I grew up.” Though still rare in Oregon, Gamay fits in well stylistically, producing juicy, tart, berry-flavored wines that are best enjoyed young. —Paul Gregutt
Oregon Gamays to Try Brick House 2014 Biodynamic Gamay Noir (Ribbon Ridge); $29, not yet reviewed. Salem Wine Company 2014 Gamay (Eola-Amity Hills); $25, not yet reviewed. Division 2014 Methven Family Vineyards Cru Gamay Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $27, not yet reviewed.
Beaujolais, Revisited As we inch closer to spring, it’s never too early to start thinking about enjoying lighter-bodied reds. That’s where Beaujolais comes in. These wines are fruity, low in alcohol (12.5% is the norm) and offer great quality for their generally modest prices. What more could any wine lover ask for? The Beaujolais region has an image problem of its own creation, the result of the bubble of Beaujolais Nouveau that bursts each November. There is, however, more to this region. Wines from the 10 cru villages in the far north and from Beaujolais- Villages may be fruity, but they’re also complex, sometimes age-worthy and certainly worth taking seriously. Not too seriously, though. The Gamay grape that makes its spiritual home in the granite hills of Beaujolais is effusive, generous and always ready to give a good glass of wine. It can even come with bubbles, as maverick producer Jean-Paul Brun has shown with his FRV100, a semisweet Gamay-based rosé wine imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Beaujolais offers wines for the cellar in addition to fruity wines and light summer sparklers. That’s plenty of reason to pay more attention to this beautiful region and its bottlings. —Roger Voss
Domaine Dupré 2014 Vieilles Vignes de 1935 (Morgon); $22, 91 points. A big, rich wine, this is bold with black fruits and some firm tannins. The concentration comes from vines planted in 1935, giving a great, dense texture. As it develops, the wine will become ripe, jammy, delicious and impressive. Drink from 2018.