In the Garden Cara Delevingne in the Hosts a Garden Party for the Wilderness Window Festival in England

Home , Emma Ferrer, Eric Schneiderman, Sonia Rykiel, Tory Burch

IN THE GARDEN CARA DELEVINGNE IN THE HOSTS A GARDEN PARTY FOR THE WILDERNESS WINDOW FESTIVAL IN ENGLAND. KATE MARA AND STYLIST PAGE 10 JOHNNY WUJEK TEAM UP COPENHAGEN CHEER TO CREATE WINDOWS AN UPBEAT MOOD PREVAILED AT COPENHAGEN FASHION FOR H&M FOR NEW YORK WEEK AS DANISH FASHION EXPORTS RISE. PAGES 8 AND 9 FASHION WEEK. PAGE 6

RENTS CLIMBING FAST New Retail Mecca: Lower Manhattan By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — Retailing in lower Manhattan is gaining promise and getting pricier. With sweeping transformation hitting the area, lower Manhattan asking rents soared 37.8 percent in the second quarter this year over the same period TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ last year, faster than any other section of the borough, WWD Cushman & Wakefi eld reported Monday. The commercial real estate services fi rm exam- ined 10 Manhattan neighborhoods and concluded that lower Manhattan’s asking rents, in percent increases, stand “head and shoulders above the rest.” Average asking rents for ground-fl oor space in lower Manhattan averaged $346 a square foot in the second quarter of Pretty, 2014, compared to $251 in the same quarter a year ago. The area’s vacancy rate stood at 6.4 percent compared to 9.1 percent in the year-ago period. “This central business district is the fourth-largest in the country and it’s under-retailed,” Cushman & Pretty Wakefi eld vice chairman Joanne Podell told WWD. “It’s a rediscovered market. Broadway is the best corridor for street retail. There’s very little availability and rents are skyrocketing.” Cushman & Wakefi eld defi nes lower Manhattan as Pleats extending from Chambers Street to the southern tip Girly pleating is of the island. everywhere for resort, More specifi cally in lower Manhattan, CBRE Group Inc., the commercial real estate services and invest- adding a charming ment fi rm, reported that downtown Broadway saw the touch to even the largest year-over-year average asking rent increase, most sporty shapes. rising by 22.03 percent to $277 a square foot in the second quarter of this year, from $227 in the year-ago pe- For more, see pages riod. CBRE defi nes downtown Broadway as stretching 4 and 5. from Battery Park to Chambers Street. “In that whole area, we are seeing a rebirth of development unlike anything we have seen before,” said Andrew Goldberg, vice chairman of retail services, CBRE Group. “There’s roughly a million square feet SEE PAGE 7 Barneys New York Settles Racial Profiling Probe By ARNOLD J. KARR

BARNEYS NEW YORK INC. has cleared a major hurdle in its battle to put the “shop and frisk” controversy of holiday 2013 behind it. In a settlement with the offi ce of New York State Attorney General Eric Schneiderman following a nine- month investigation, the retailer has agreed to pay $525,000 in costs, fees and penalties and to take a series of remedial actions to settle allegations that it engaged in racial profi ling last year directed at two black shoppers. The settlement wraps up the state’s investigation into the Barneys incidents while an investigation into Macy’s treatment of Rob Brown, an actor in the HBO series “Treme,” is ongoing, according to a spokeswom- From left: Sonia by Sonia Rykiel’s cotton, viscose and an at the Attorney General’s offi ce and a spokesman silk shirt; Sportmax’s cotton crepe and polyester skirt; for Macy’s. Brown fi led suit against the retailer after Alexis Bittar cuff; Rachel Comey shoes. Gabriele Colangelo’s being stopped by the NYPD in June following the pur- cotton poplin shirt; Nonoo’s cotton skirt; ASKA shoes. chase of a $1,350 gold Movado watch for his mother. Although the state matter with Barneys is settled, investigations by the New York City Commission on Human Rights are continuing, according to a spokes- woman for the agency. The commission sought information on the loss-prevention policies of 17 large retailers doing business in New York City and in December subpoenaed documents from Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, both units of Macy’s Inc., and said it would subpoena documents from Gap Inc.’s Old Navy and Banana Republic brands. In the Barneys case, Trayon Christian fi led suit against the retailer, New York City and the New York Police Department, alleging discrimination, after PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE

MODELS: SAM ROMBERGER/IMG AND NOEL/FORD; HAIR BY PASCALE POMA; MAKEUP BY JAVIER ROMERO; FASHION ASSISTANT: ANDREW SHANG; PHOTO ASSISTANT: EMILY TAYLOR EMILY ANDREW SHANG; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ASSISTANT: ROMERO; FASHION JAVIER POMA; MAKEUP BY PASCALE MODELS: SAM ROMBERGER/IMG AND NOEL/FORD; HAIR BY SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 WWD.COM Kering-Alibaba Latest Fakes Case THE BRIEFING BOX fort, the IACC has worked with credit card companies, IN TODAY’S WWD By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Western Union and other transaction services to dis- mantle payment operators on sites selling counterfeit WHILE KERING SA and the Alibaba Group have goods. In the past several years, the IACC has “built moved their e-commerce counterfeiting dispute up a reputation for having really good quality control from the courtroom to the conference room, scores in place and mindful due diligence,” he said. Digital Kelsey Van Mook of other companies are also staring down the prob- platforms like Taobao have taken notice of the fact is the subject of lem of online counterfeit sales. that 3,600 to 3,700 payment service providers affecting “Model Call” on The Kering suit, which was filed July 9 in New “hundreds of thousands” of Web sites have been shut WWD.com. York and withdrawn July 24 following construc- down by such law enforcement agencies as the U.S. tive dialogue between the two parties, alleged that Department of Homeland Security, Barchiesi said. Alibaba Group Holding Ltd., China’s biggest e-com- In general, rights holders need to establish online merce company and affiliates, made it possible to roadblocks suitable for different platforms rather sell fakes throughout the world. “Kering and Alibaba than one policy for everyone — that customized tac- have agreed to work together in good faith through tic is taken by Taobao, Alibaba and AirExpress, ac- the normal business process on ways to enhance in- cording to Barchiesi. Just last month LVMH Moët tellectual property protection in a manner that can Hennessy Louis Vuitton and eBay settled out of court further reduce counterfeiting of Kering brands and their own legal battle over the sale of counterfeit lux- ensures a healthy and vibrant e-commerce ecosystem ury goods on eBay, though both companies were short for consumers, merchants, and brand owners alike,” on details about the deal. LVMH declined to comment according to a Kering statement released Monday. Monday in the wake of the Kering-Alibaba news. The suit claims trademark infringement against With its initial public offering filing in motion OF NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT PHOTO COURTESY such Kering brands as Gucci, Bottega Veneta, with the Securities and Exchange Commission, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and others. Kering is Alibaba has expressed concern about how the per- present in more than 120 countries, and the com- ception of fakes could damage its reputation. Retail rents in lower Manhattan are rising faster than any other pany’s shares are traded on the Euronext Paris. Although Barchiesi has not been involved with area of the borough, according to Cushman & Wakefield. PAGE 1 Kering executives declined further comment. the Kering-Alibaba negotiations, the idea of col- Alibaba did not respond to requests for comment. laborating to fight counterfeiting is something he Barneys New York has cleared a major hurdle in its battle to Both parties are trying to reach a resolution supports. “Combining resources, expertise and in- put the “shop and frisk” controversy behind it. PAGE 1 within what is believed to be a 90-day time frame. formation only makes good sense,” he said. Should that not happen, the matter could wind up Groupe Clarins has also run up against chal- H&M will feature 10 windows nationwide created by Kate back in court. The Kering-Alibaba showdown start- lenges expanding its digital efforts internationally, Mara and stylist Johnny Wujek. PAGE 6 ed when the French company sued several Alibaba especially in China, where the Web is protected by Group e-commerce platforms and Alipay, as well as the so-called Great China Firewall. Known official- The Biofit bra, formerly a Victoria’s Secret product, is back as other unaffiliated entities. Kering has withdrawn ly as the Golden Shield Project, the government- part of Playboy’s new Biofit x Playboy collection. PAGE 7 the suit against Alibaba, but it still is pursuing legal controlled firewall restricts the dissemination of action against merchants named in the filing that information and impacts e-commerce businesses from abroad, resulting in slower load times and Lisa Jackson in mid-October will open her first LJ Cross store, sold counterfeit goods of its brands. PAGE 7 The plethora of counterfeit goods being sold online compromised site functionality. a 400-square-foot boutique in Manhattan. is only getting worse, according to Robert Barchiesi, Earlier this year Laurent Malaveille, Clarins’ for- president of the International AntiCounterfeiting mer digital executive vice president who now heads An upbeat mood reigned at Copenhagen Fashion Week since Coalition. “With the combination of China’s copycat up its efforts in the Swiss market, noted that “sales Danish fashion companies are expanding their work forces for culture and the insatiable appetite of U.S. consum- are done through the gray market and through un- the first time in five years. PAGE 8 ers who are always looking for a bargain, you have a official channels” in China. Clarins’ solution was to perfect storm,” he said Monday, adding of Alibaba’s e- embrace the reality rather than fight it, so the brand Better Cotton is on target toward becoming a sustainable commerce platform Taobao, “This is not just a Taobao opened two online stores in September, a stand- mainstream commodity. PAGE 9 problem. It is a big problem for them but it’s a massive alone one and a second on Tmall.com. problem for a lot of other companies.” “From Day One, we knew that to be relevant Cara Delevingne and Mulberry cohosted a garden party Last summer, the IACC signed what it calls a to China we needed to have both properties,” during the Wilderness Festival in England. PAGE 10 MarketSafe deal with Taobao, which also covers Malaveille said. “So we decided to go there respect- the Tmall platform, both of which are businesses ing our DNA as a luxury brand, selling our products Emma Ferrer, Audrey Hepburn’s paternal granddaughter who within Alibaba Group. The ongoing effort zeroes in at full price and with full service.” graces the subscriber cover of Harper’s Bazaar’s September on fighting online counterfeiting sales. Launched in With Clarins’ online sales exceeding expecta- issue, discusses her first modeling experience. PAGE 10 May, MarketSafe’s first claim was filed in June and tions in China, Malaveille has said that Tmall is 15,000 erroneous listings have been removed since not only going to be its number-one China store this Just as the Metropolitan Museum of Art was about to close on that time, according to Barchiesi. While Alibaba has year, but it’s “also going to affect the brand percep- Sunday afternoon, Cate Blanchett and Isabelle Huppert were said it can take up to five working days to remove a tion among the online audience,” adding that “we PAGE 11 product from its site, through its dealings with the have pushed down the gray marketers and dis- spotted patiently waiting in its lobby. conglomerate the IACC can expedite that process to counters in the search engine results.” a day or two, Barchiesi said. In the U.K., Compagnie Financière Richemont, par- Condé Nast on Monday revealed a series of reshuffles in While MarketSafe now focuses on 20 brands and ent of brands including Cartier, Dunhill, and Van Cleef its digital arm involving Lucky, Bon Appétit and one of its top is still considered a model pilot program, the aim & Arpels, is seeking an order from Britain’s high court executives. PAGE 11 is to expand the program next year, he said. With to block access to Web sites selling counterfeit versions the IACC serving as an intermediary, it is up to the of its brands’ watches and jewelry. The Switzerland- ON WWD.COM participating companies, none of which were iden- based luxury goods group wants the major Internet tified, to seek out “infringing listings” on Taobao’s providers in the region — BT, Virgin Media, Sky, MODEL CALL: Kelsey Van Mook, the 22-year-old Vancouver platform and then to share that information with TalkTalk and EE — to block users’ access to six sites native, stopped by WWD’s office to talk her most pivotal the IACC, Barchiesi said. that sell the bogus luxury goods. Neither Richemont career moment, shooting with monkeys and living in Part of the reason the IACC was able to join forces nor the court would comment at press time. Williamsburg, Brooklyn. For more, see WWD.com. with Taobao was due to the high marks it has received — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM through its Rogue Block initiative. Through that ef- SAMANTHA CONTI AND JOELLE DIDERICH FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Coach Takeover by Kering Seen Unlikely @ WWD.com/social TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS the numbers work either. It would model right now, we think they’ll [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. By WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. EVAN CLARK have to be a sizable acquisition.” have to add $750 million to $1 bil- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Coach has a market capitaliza- lion in debt over the next 12 to 18 VOLUME 208, NO. 31. TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and SHARES OF Coach Inc. slid 1.4 tion of about $10 billion, which months,” he said. “They’re basi- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine percent to $36.18 Monday as the would make it one of the largest cally not self-financing their U.S. Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, company managed to hold on to fashion takeovers in years. business right now.” Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, some of Friday’s gains, which Perry Ellis International Inc. NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West were driven by a rumor that was also giving back some of Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, Kering was contemplating an ac- the takeover-rumor gains it saw Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. quisition of the firm. last week and fell 2.4 percent to Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address The stock jumped 5.4 percent 1.4% $20.42. The company was report- changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us Friday as the rumor spread. ed to be considering a sale. that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. DROP IN COACH INC. SHARES If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with Despite the lurch in stock In general it was a sleepy day your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be ON MONDAY TO $36.18. price, analysts and mergers and for stocks in the U.S. The Dow mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request acquisitions experts didn’t give Jones Industrial Average inched to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse the whispers much credence. Boruchow also noted that up 0.1 percent to 16,569.98 on permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. “A takeout seems unlikely Coach is in the midst of a turn- Wall Street. Markets were more Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we especially from a luxury brand around and is using up its cash robust overseas. Frankfurt’s DAX believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR [company] like Kering,” said Ike quickly, making it a more difficult led European stocks higher, gain- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED Boruchow, an analyst at Sterne, company to buy and then operate. ing 1.9 percent to 9,180.74 and the TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, Agee & Leach Inc. who covers “Based on the North Tokyo’s Nikkei 225 led in Asia, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND Coach. “I don’t think you can make American cash burn that we gaining 2.4 percent to 15,130.52. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. New face. New attitude.

TURNING COMING FALL 2014 THE FASHION WORLD ON ITS

XIAO WEN BACKSTAGE CHANEL’S AT FALL READY-TO-WEAR SHOW. PHOTOGRAPH BY MATT IRWIN. HEAD 4 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014

Polite’s nylon, cotton and spandex dress with silk chiffon pleats.

Pretty, Pretty Sportmax’s polyester crepe dress. Pleats Designers are getting inventive with pleats, working the folds into all sorts of cool looks.

DKNY’s cotton and polyester shirt. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE AND JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANDREW SHANG

Elie Tahari’s wool and elastane skirt. Oscar de la Renta’s stretch silk georgette dress. Ralph Lauren Black Label’s stretch matte silk cady dress. WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Opening Ceremony’s cotton, rayon and polyester skirt.

Adeam’s cotton, polyamide and silk skirt.

Chagoury’s polyester and spandex skirt. Bibhu Mohapatra’s polyamide, silk organza and spandex dress.

Nina Ricci’s cotton poplin shirt.

Thom Browne’s linen, cotton, polyester and silk dress.

Emilio de la Morena’s silk, cotton and polyamide dress. Public School’s cotton cupro pants. Christian Siriano’s silk faille dress. 6 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 Barneys Reaches Settlement H&M, Mara Link Up for NYFW The windows will showcase fall By MARC KARIMZADEH looks from the elevated H&M Studio In N.Y. State Profiling Probe collection, which was unveiled with {Continued from page one} isfaction with the settlement, saying the NEW YORK — “I think I’d tuck it in.” a fashion show during Paris Fashion he was detained by NYPD officers follow- resolution “builds on many of the steps That’s Kate Mara, mulling a brown Week in February. ing his purchase of a $349 Ferragamo belt that Barneys instituted” since public furor leather top with matching pants on a “Not only has H&M stepped it up on April 29 of last year. And Kayla Phillips about the “shop and frisk” episodes built to model at H&M’s Fifth Avenue show- to the level where they are now show- filed a $5 million notice of claim against the a climax late last year. room here. On Monday afternoon, ing in Paris during fashion week, but NYPD after buying a $2,500 Céline bag two “Whether it is in a store, on the street or the actress and her stylist sidekick, the collection also has a street vibe to months earlier. The settlement with the at- anywhere else, no one should go through Johnny Wujek, were on site to work it and they showed it with a futuristic torney general’s office ends both suits. the humiliation and indignity of being on a special New York Fashion Week set,” Wujek said. “We loved the idea In commenting on the settlement, eyed with suspicion, followed or detained project with the retail chain and of New York during fashion week and Schneiderman said, “Profiling and racial simply because of the color of their skin,” Vogue, which evolves around the duo thought it will be cool to have a big discrimination remain a problem in our Morial said. “We are hopeful that this styling nine H&M windows to launch print of the city, and lights, and life. state, but not one we are willing to ac- agreement represents a significant step to- the New York Collections. New York is just life, you walk out the cept. This agreement will continue our wards ending this injustice and can serve Mara and Wujek have been friends door and it’s go, go, go.” work to ensure there’s one set of rules for as a template for all retailers.” and fashion collaborators for almost “We are trying to reflect it,” Mara everyone in public accommodations, a decade. They met on an editorial chimed in. including customers in New York’s shoot around the time the actress was “The styling is the uptown girl, retail establishments. This agreement promoting “We Are Marshall.” the downtown girl, the girl on the will correct a number of wrongs, both When H&M reached out to them go who is chic but hustling,” Wujek by fixing past policies and by moni- to do this project, they jumped at added. “We wanted to incorporate so toring the actions of Barneys and its the opportunity. much, we wanted to have manholes employees to make sure that past mis- “Not only do we work together and with steam coming out.” They are takes are not repeated.” get to play dress-up, but we are best also expected to feature yellow cabs, Mark Lee, chief executive offi- shattered glass on the cer of Barneys, commented, “We are floor and neon signs of pleased to have come to an agreement their signatures. with Attorney General’’ Schneiderman. On Monday, they During the entirety of our 90-year his- were selecting the tory, Barneys New York has prided looks and going back itself on providing an unparalleled and forth about how customer experience to every person they should be pre- that comes into contact with our brand STEVE EICHNER Rev. Al Sharpton, New York City Comptroller sented in the windows. — open and welcoming to one and all. Scott M. Stringer and minister Kirsten John Foy Though besties, the two “We are a truly progressive com- addressing “shop-and-frisk” in December. don’t always see eye to pany that has absolutely no tolerance PHOTO BY eye when it comes to for discrimination of any kind,” he contin- He commended Barneys “not only for its sartorial matters. ued, “and believe this agreement will help response, but for helping to lead the charge “I hate all bold build on that commitment and further in making sure all retailers understand that pieces; anything with strengthen our organization in the years there is a significant problem in this indus- sparkles and faux fur,” and decades to come.” try and for taking steps to fix the situation.” Mara said. “And I love Schneiderman’s office found that The controversy took on national im- them,” Wujek retorted. Barneys “maintained inadequate records plications as it ensnared Shawn “Jay Z” “So we compro- Carter, who collaborated with mise,” explained Barneys on an exclusive holiday Mara. “Some of the collection, dubbed BNY SCC pieces will be things This agreement will continue Gallery. Carter was under pres- I wouldn’t necessar- sure to withdraw from the deal, ily wear because not

our work to ensure there’s one but he stuck with Barneys after every girl is going to Barneys earmarked 100 percent want to dress like I do.” set of rules for everyone in public of all sales to beneﬁt the Shawn Mara wrapped Carter Foundation, which pro- filming of the new accommodations, including vides opportunities for young “Fantastic Four” people facing socioeconomic Kate Mara and movie last week, and

customers in New York’s hardships, up from the original Johnny Wujek while she takes fash- 25 percent. Carter also worked GEORGE CHINSEE at H&M’s Fifth ion seriously, it’s not retail establishments. as part of an advisory group at Avenue showroom. a primary focus at Barneys to study racial profiling, PHOTO BY the moment. — NEW YORK STATE ATTORNEY according to sources. Would she ever GENERAL ERIC SCHNEIDERMAN A retail task force, including friends, so it was a cool project to consider posing in the windows like ’’ retailers, the Urban League’s have been presented to us from H&M Emmy, the mannequin portrayed by Morial and members of other and Vogue,” said Wujek, who also Kim Cattrall in the cult movie? “Oh of stops made by their loss-prevention civil rights groups hammered out a styles the likes of Katy Perry and Kim no,” she said. employees, but despite these lapses, ex- Customers’ Bill of Rights, which was sub- Kardashian. “‘Mannequin,’ my movie The windows will be unveiled on isting records showed a disproportionate sequently adopted by the Retail Council fantasy, came true. I started conceiv- Sept. 4, when the collection goes on number of black and Latino customers of New York State and posted on its Web ing all these ideas.” sale. On the same day, H&M on Fifth being detained for alleged shoplifting or site for use by its 5,000 members, who With the fashion week tie-in, the Avenue will host an event featur- credit card fraud.” range from sole proprietorships to na- theme of the windows is New York, ing a conversation between the two, After the investigation, the Attorney tional chains with a retail presence in The which appealed particularly to Mara, with some 400 students expected in General’s Civil Rights Bureau concluded Empire State. a Bedford, N.Y., native who is now the audience. “We’ll also invite Kim that Barneys lacked “objective, race-neu- Rev. Al Sharpton of the National based in Los Angeles. Cattrall,” Wujek said. tral criteria for investigating potential Action Network quickly weighed in on shoplifting and/or credit card fraud”’’ and the Barneys controversy last year, and engaged in “excessive force and handcuffs” Sharpton has remained involved as he’s in its treatment of detainees. pursued other matters, including the re- Sears Taps Alasdair James for Kmart Among the steps being taken by Barneys as cent shooting of Michael Brown in St. steps. The Kmart division has been part of the agreement, the re- By EVAN CLARK adding new offerings, for instance, tailer will: bringing in goods tied to Adam Q Retain an independent SEARS HOLDINGS CORP. is bringing Levine and Nicki Minaj. antiprofiling consultant We are a truly progressive company in some global talent from Tesco plc James most recently spent two with expertise in the pre- for its Kmart business. years as commercial director at vention of racial profiling that has absolutely no tolerance The company hired Alasdair Tesco’s global business unit and before in asset protection; James as president and chief mem- that managed the company’s opera- Q Establish new record- for discrimination of any kind. ber officer of Kmart, making him re- tions in China. He has also held posts keeping requirements on sponsible for the chain’s format strat- at GlaxoSmithKline and PepsiCo. investigations, detentions — MARK LEE, BARNEYS egy and profit and loss. He is also Lampert said: “Alasdair will work and false stops conducted by charged with “aligning merchandise, closely with me and our business unit loss-prevention employees; marketing, pricing and selling with leaders to understand the preferenc- Q Limit access to closed-circuit television Louis. He met with officials from Macy’s the needs and wants of Shop Yo u r es of Shop Your Way members who areas by local law enforcement officers and and Barneys, along with New York City Way members.” shop at Kmart. He will be responsi- maintain records of visits by local officers; Police Commissioner William Bratton, ear- Edward Lampert, chairman and ble for the Kmart strategy, its perfor- Q Adopt new loss-prevention detention pol- lier this year. Bratton was named to serve chief executive officer of Sears mance and its continued transforma- icies and a new antiprofiling policy; his second tenure as NYPD commissioner Holdings, has pinned much of the tion as an integrated retail format.” Q Develop and conduct antiprofiling training last December, as the controversy about retail group’s reinvention on the Last year, Kmart logged adjusted for loss-prevention and sales employees, and the racial profiling incidents picked up member program, while also spin- losses before interest, taxes, depre- Q Investigate customer complaints of profiling. steam. His predecessor, Ray Kelly, wasn’t ning off various operations, such as ciation and amortization of $129 mil- Marc Morial, president and ceo of the directly involved in talks during the final Lands’ End, and subleasing space lion, while comparable-store sales National Urban League, expressed sat- days of his term as head of the’’ NYPD. to other retailers and taking other fell 3.6 percent. WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 7 WWD.COM Lisa Jackson to Open Playboy Launches Biofit Collection PLAYBOY has introduced the Biofit x in previous fashion shoots,” said Nordby. Playboy collection, which uses technology “A lot of thought went into finding the launched by Bendon and Victoria’s Secret right Playmate. Yo u don’t have to be an First LJ Cross Store in 2007. Angel or Playmate to appreciate this Biofit, a push-up bra, was revolu- product. The Playboy brand needs to em- white gold designs with clean, archi- tionary when it launched, but Bendon’s power the female consumer. This is for By SHARON EDELSON tectural lines. agreement with Victoria’s Secret expired women of all shapes and sizes and allows The layering of the crosses is an in 2011. “Ours was the first to market that them to feel sexy.” NEW YORK — Lisa Jackson will important aspect of the brand. “Lisa customized padding-to-cup size,” said Davis-Rice and Nordby declined to dis- open her first LJ Cross store in mid- is never caught wearing less than Justin Davis-Rice, Bendon’s chief execu- cuss volume, but said, “Biofit generated a October, a 400-square-foot boutique at three crosses,” said Van Dang. “Five tive officer. “The padding inside the cup substantial volume when it launched in 994 Madison Avenue here. to seven is the norm. It doesn’t look changes in shape and form to provide the partnership with Victoria’s Secret.” The store will showcase Jackson’s over the top. It’s very refined. The cli- ultimate push-up for the cup size. It cre- Playboy will launch an integrated jewelry collection of modern, edgy entele at trunk shows have responded ates the perfect amount of cleavage.” print and social marketing campaign for crosses in various shapes and sizes. to the way she wears it. Nobody has The “new and improved” Biofit x the collection. “We’ll promote it on the Jackson uses rose gold, white gold purchased just one.” Playboy bra has and mother of pearl for the crosses Jackson isn’t new to the design “Secret Service and embellishes them with white and world. Her Lisa Jackson Ltd. inte- technology, a lin- Champagne diamonds, from tiny rior design firm counted Vera ing covering the micro-pavé stones to Wang, Renée Zellweger and inside of the cup large shards. Tory Burch as clients. Alex that feels like Jackson’s interest Miller of Taylor and Miller suede. It keeps in crosses began as an is designing the store the bust in place homage to her broth- with Jackson. all day,” Davis- er, who died five years Jackson will also sell Rice said. ago. “He was insanely a line of accessories of Playboy plans to handsome and styl- her own design such sell the Biofit col- ish and always wore as alligator clutches lection on its Web crosses,” she said. “I’ve with fine jewelry platforms, which been collecting crosses clasps and fur collars get 7.7 million visi- myself ever since that and scarves. “All of tors per month, day. All of mine were cos- those are staples in and through its tume jewelry. I realized my own wardrobe,” social channels. there were no gemstone she said. “I basically The collection will crosses in the market that am seeing the store as a have its own URL, were cool enough.” wonderful home for every- BiofitxPlayboy.com, Jackson hired Ward Kelvin, An LJ Cross ring. thing I believe in. I’ll have with fit advice and who has worked for Tiffany, home accessories. Somebody a measurement David Yurman and Ralph in Brooklyn is doing hand- guide. The Biofit A look from Biofit x Playboy. Lauren, to help her design the collection. blown glasses for me and we have a x Playboy bras are Since January, Jackson has been candle in the works. It’s all to comple- priced from $39.95 to $49.95, panties are e-commerce store. On that site, we’ve selling the jewelry out of a doctor’s ment the fine jewelry.” $14.95, and the corset is $99.95. The bras created videos and outtakes from the ac- bag at trunk shows around the coun- Jackson is going on the trade show come in solid (nude and black), lace (black tual photo shoot. We’re creating a story tr y. The crosses are priced from $750 circuit. The line was previewed at and hot pink), lace detail (red, purple and about the lifestyle of the Playboy brand to $60,000. “The sweet spot is the JCK Luxury Privé and “most likely lavender) and print (trellis in black and with the technology of Biofit. We’re also $7,000 to $15,000 range,” said Kim we’ll go to the Centurion show in white). The rabbit head motif is embossed activating new consumers through joint Van Dang, LJ Cross brand director. Scottsdale [Ariz.],” she said. on the back strap of every bra. spending by Bendon. We think there’s a Micro-pavé crosses in the $1,000 to “We have a major retail partner The aesthetic of the collection was lot of new consumers we can attract to $1,200 price range are also popular. that we’re very close to coming to a inspired by Playboy, said Matt Nordby, the Playboy model.” The jewelry is made in New deal with,” Jackson said, declining president of global licensing at Playboy Playboy has a broad target range of York by craftsmen. “There’s the to provide details. “We have stores Enterprises, noting that the company 18- to 45-year-old customers. “Given this sense that all of these things are in Miami, Nantucket and Aspen” that has a history of collaborating with de- product and its known technology, our hand made,” Jackson said. “That’s want to carry the brand. “In the fall, signers such as Marc Jacobs, Cushnie et sweet spot will be 18- to 35-year-olds,” said very important to me. It’s the mix we’ll open in six to eight independent Ochs and Supreme. Nordby. He said the company is focussing of organic and modern.” The jew- jewelry boutiques and a handful of Bendon also holds the licenses to most of its efforts on 26- to 33-year-old elry is divided into five groups in- stores with a major retail partner. We Elle Macpherson Intimates and Stella women. “It’s the upwardly mobile female cluding Mosaic, which features see having our own presence in key McCartney innerwear, among others. who wants something premium but practi- rose gold with burnished fancy-cut markets where it makes sense. We’re Playmates are featured in ads for the cal,” he said. “It’s an accessible product.” Champagne diamonds, and Pure, looking at the first of several stores.” Biofit collection. “We’ve used Playmates — S.E. Lower Manhattan Retail Rents Climbing Fast {Continued from page one} Retailers are waking up to al eateries and a European-style fies the perception of lower reveal a deal soon. of retail coming on line between the metamorphosis and the po- marketplace similar to Eataly, Manhattan as a growing mecca In its report Monday, Westfield World Trade Center, tential of the area, which has which is on Fifth Avenue be- for luxury. In 2017, Barneys New Cushman & Wakefield indicated Brookfield Place, Fulton Transit long lacked sufficient shopping tween 23rd and 24th Streets. The York will open a 57,000-square- that Times Square had the sec- Hub and the South Street alternatives, and are beginning centerpiece of Brookfield Place foot store at Seventh Avenue ond-highest rate of asking rent Seaport and developments along to grab up space. is the 10-story Winter Garden and 16th Street, its old stomping increase — 13.8 percent. Third Broadway. There are also all of For lower Manhattan, glass pavilion for public events, grounds. That will give Barneys on the list was Madison Avenue, these new state-of-the-art mod- Cushman & Wakefield’s statis- shops and restaurants and the a second major Manhattan loca- up 12.4 percent, followed by ern office buildings coming on tics include Broadway, Fulton waterfront esplanade. tion, just like Saks will have once the 10.7 percent increase in the line. It’s very rare that you see and Wall Streets and do not in- Also downtown, Saks wants it opens in Brookfield Place. Flatiron District. all of this new product hitting clude any data from Brookfield to open an Off 5th outlet close Bloomingdale’s already has “We expect downtown to keep the market at the same time.” Place, Westfield World Trade to Century 21 and the Westfield two locations in Manhattan — attracting retail as office employ- The area will be flooded with Center or the Fulton Transit World Trade Center, just east of its flagship on 59th Street and ment rises,” Podell said. “In addi- additional office workers in the Hub retail complex. Vesey Street. It would be the first Lexington Avenue, and its special- tion, retail rents along the Fifth coming months, with Condé Nast Brookfield Place, formerly Saks Off 5th in New York City. ty concept on Broadway in SoHo. Avenue corridor have been in- relocating to One World Trade known as the World Financial Westfield, with about 365,000 Bloomingdale’s has at times ex- creasing steadily, underscoring Center, Time Inc. moving into Center, is undergoing a $250 mil- square feet for retailers, has amined the West Side for another that market’s long-term strength.” Brookfield Place, and GroupM lion redevelopment, reconfig- been in discussions with many store, including Hudson Yards, but Lower Manhattan’s vacancy entering Three World Trade uring its 250,000 square feet of designers and brands that could for now at least has no plans for a rate decline was the sharpest Center. The U.S. Army Corps of retail space and its restaurant open stores in the World Trade third Manhattan site. Macy’s, too, of the 10 neighborhoods, falling Engineers, U.S. Customs and components. Saks Fifth Avenue Center mall but has yet to dis- has at times considered another 2.7 percentage points. Coming in Border Protection, China Center is in advanced negotiations to close any tenants. It is believed location in Manhattan, uptown second was lower Fifth Avenue, and KiDS Creative are also mov- open a full-line store there; it to be in late-stage talks with and downtown. where vacancies charted 1.6 ing into One World Trade Center. would be Saks’ second store Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Real estate sources believe percentage points lower, fol- Visitors to the area are on the in the city. Hermès, Salvatore Tiffany & Co. The mall is not Hudson Yards, built atop the lowed by unchanged levels in rise, with 14 million people ex- Ferragamo, Ermenegildo Zegna, being configured for a major an- rail yards near the Hudson Times Square, and an increase pected annually in the coming Theory, Scoop, Michael Kors, chor tenant. River, between 30th and 33rd of 0.4 percent on Third Avenue. years. That’s way up from the four Bonobos, Equinox, Diane von The South Street Seaport is Streets and 10th Avenue and Fifth Avenue, Madison Avenue, million visitors in 2002, the year Furstenberg, Judith & Charles undergoing a redevelopment the West Side Highway, could be the Meatpacking District, following the Sept. 11 terrorist at- and Calypso have already signed and will be seeking to attract a the next part of town to see such SoHo, the Upper West Side and tacks on the World Trade Center, leases. A total of 40 stores are higher grade of retailing. major transformation. Neiman Herald Square-34th Street were according to published statistics expected. Also being planned is The move by Saks to Marcus is negotiating to move also part of the Cushman & from the Downtown Alliance. a dining terrace of upscale casu- Brookfield Place only solidi- into Hudson Yards, and could Wakefield research.

w12a007a.indd 7 8/11/14 7:50 PM 08112014195139 8 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014

Looks …By …and from Malene Designers Asger Juel Birger… Remix. Larson…

…Designers’ Nest …Barbara I Gongini… winner Andreas Eklöf… Sunnier Time at Copenhagen Fashion Week focus on all the brands that are Thursday to Sunday to Sunday said Gallery ceo Christian saw Max Nørgaard’s collection By LAURE GUILBAULT telling a sustainable story,” she to Wednesday, resulting in the Gregersen. Visitor numbers that we liked.” added, citing Barbara I Gongini, city’s fairs being spread out over were not available at press time. Nørgaard sent out a sporty

COPENHAGEN — An upbeat who had the opening show, and a longer period. Vision went back to its previ- collection featuring fabrics such mood reigned at Copenhagen newcomer Fonnesbech. Continuing with its major ous venue Øksnehallen, a former as chambray and cotton in light Fashion Week since Danish They were among more than re-branding, the fair upgraded market hall. A jury of designers — blue and white, with a little vol- fashion companies are expand- 30 women’s and men’s labels its Crystal Hall area, showcas- Gongini, Silas Adler of Soulland, ume in dresses and blouses. ing their work forces for the showing this season, including a mix of avant-garde brands Charlotte Eskildsen of Designers Trébuil said overall trends first time in five years amid ing rising talents such as Freya alongside an exhibition space. Remix, Astrid Andersen and included boxy and oversize

signs of sustained strength in Dalsjö and Larsen, winner of It presented an installment by Anne Sofie Madsen — selected shapes on tops as well as bot- the industry’s foreign sales. the European regional award Off White’s Virgil Abloh, who is Andreas Eklöf, a student at the toms. She saw a lot of techni- Total exports of Danish fash- of the International Woolmark also creative director for Kanye Swedish School of Textiles, as cal materials such as Neoprene ion, which account for 60 per- Prize in men’s wear, and regu- West and cofounder of Chicago the winner of the fair’s Designers’ and mesh, as well as shiny and cent of the Danish fashion in- lars such as Designers Remix, concept store RSVP Gallery, and Nest competition. transparent fabrics. dustry’s output, rose 1.8 percent Baum und Pferdgarten and By an exhibit dedicated to the late “It’s really sophisticated out- “We are looking for some- in 2013 to 22.7 billion Danish Malene Birger. ’’ Malcolm McLaren, curated by erwear,” said Madsen about the thing fresh out of Denmark,” kroner, or $4.17 billion. Germany Model Hanne Gaby Odiele his longtime partner, Young Kim. winner. “I think to use recycled said Keven McDermott, creative and England were the biggest walked the runway for “We have moved Crystal Hall materials in the same collection director and buyer at Layers drivers, with exports up 5 and Nørgaard’s show. Another high- to another level that is more cul- as new fabrics is a cool new ap- London. McDermott said he 7 percent, respectively, versus light was Ganni’s runway show, tural,” said Kristian Andersen, proach. It is not recycling, it’s bought Barbara I Gongini around 2012. This offset the 5 percent held on a rooftop tennis court. CIFF fashion and design direc- a way of upscaling,” added the three-and-a-half years ago but drop in domestic sales in 2013. Ole Yde hosted a cocktail event tor. “That’s part of our strategy designer, who didn’t show in stopped carrying the brand. Currency conversions are cal- to present a more commercial for the future — to be more life- Copenhagen this season. “It’s an amazing brand, but her culated at average exchange for line, while his main line is to be style- and cultural-oriented — Buyers generally lauded the aesthetic is very dark and avant- the periods concerned. presented in Paris on Oct. 1. because fashion is so linked to region’s offer. garde. People in London have Dansk Fashion and Textile, Copenhagen native Peter art and music. It was a natural “Anne Sofie Madsen gives moved on in a slightly different the trade association for Danish Jensen lifted the veil on his collaboration [with Abloh and an identity to the store,” said direction and even though the textile and clothing companies, spring 2015 collection in col- McLaren’s estate]. Brands want Terrell Tate, creative director avant-garde scene is still big, the expects Denmark’s fashion ex- laboration with “Peanuts,” con- to be part of something that is and buyer at the concept store younger crowd want more color, ports to grow 2 percent this year. sisting of around 30 women’s more than just a trade show.” Sprmrkt in Amsterdam, which younger and sportier brands.” “The numbers are positive also carries Asger Juel Larsen McDermott and his colleague in the first half of 2014,” said and Won Hundred. Darren Rudland attended the Thomas Klausen, chief execu- Laura Larbalestier, buying Mark Kenly Domino Tan show. tive officer of Dansk Fashion The mood is very optimistic. For director at Browns in London, Rudland praised “strong bits and Textile. “The mood is very agreed: “I think Anne Sofie within it.” The graduate of the optimistic. For the first time Madsen’s collection is the most Royal College of Art in London since 2009, more companies ex- the first time since 2009, more spectacular. The style is quite cool.” impressed with his collection of pect to hire than fire.” Martin Premuzic of classic and feminine silhouettes Out of around 170 companies companies expect to hire than fire. Temporary Showroom in Berlin, reinterpreted in a modern con- surveyed by the association, 60 a store that carries Danish la- text — a nod to Raf Simons at percent said they were expecting — THOMAS KLAUSEN, bels including Henrik Vibskov Dior — with a palette of fuchsia, to hire and 70 percent said they DANSK FASHION AND TEXTILE and Stine Goya, cited Asger Juel rose, silver and shades of gray. were expecting growth. Another Larson as a good example of “I went to see the David positive sign is the growing what’s in trend. “He does a lot Andersen show. It was nice,” number of international visitors looks. “I have always loved the Andersen estimated the fair of mesh and his aesthetic is very said Bora Jun, a buyer at 10 to Copenhagen Fashion Week, comics,” said Jensen. “But I attracted around 19,000 visitors, Nineties,” said Premuzic. Corso Como in Seoul, which which this season ran Aug. 3 to 8, didn’t want to do anything with representing a small increase “I like to look at new devel- already stocks local lines such according to Klausen. Snoopy. I based the collection versus August 2013. The fair opment in fabrics,” explained as Wood Wood and bag line Buyers praised Danish fashion’s mostly on female characters — doesn’t provide definite numbers. Larsen. “For spring-summer, I PB0110. A new location of 10 light modern aesthetic and the in- Lucy, Sally Brown, Charlotte, Gallery, which was held from did a lot of fabrics with layers Corso Como is set to open in novative use of fabrics, as seen on Tapioca Pudding. I have done Aug. 6 to 8, has unveiled a col- on top, like Neoprene under- Beijing, she said. the runways of rising talents Asger various prints with them and laboration with Danish fashion neath and mesh on top. It is al- Beginning next season, the Juel Larsen, Mark Kenly Domino quotes.” The designer also has e-tailer Miinto. Starting next most like a 3-D effect.” Copenhagen fairs landscape Tan and Max Nørgaard. The re- a capsule collection in the pipe- season, it plans to take 3-D pack “Acne is the only will see a major reshuffle, with gion’s jewelry also impressed with line with French label Kitsuné. shots of all the collections, or Scandinavian brand we carry Vision set to be replaced by high-quality materials. Jensen took part in around 20,000 styles. “Gallery for the moment. We are looking Revolver. New dates for CIFF “The focus on sustainability Copenhagen International will become virtual.’’ Before the for the new Acne,” said Sandy weren’t available at press time, is what differentiates us,” said Fashion Fair, one of the three fair opens, people will be able Trébuil, luxury and designers while Revolver and Gallery Eva Kruse, ceo of Copenhagen competing trade fairs — along to prepare better and we can at- buyer at Galeries Lafayette in are scheduled to be held from Fashion Week, which draws with Gallery and Vision — that tract new buyers from Australia, Paris, noting she liked Wood Jan. 28 to 30. The dates for around 40,000 industry profes- the region offers. This sea- Japan, etc., who wouldn’t Wood, Samsoe & Samsoe and Copenhagen Fashion Week sionals. “We are putting the son, CIFF shifted its days from come to Gallery otherwise,” Baum und Pferdgarten. “We also shows are Jan. 28 to Feb. 1.

w12a008(9)a;9.indd 8 8/11/14 7:13 PM 08112014191522 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 9 WWD.COM Spotlight for Danish Jewelry TEXTILES

By LAURE GUILBAULT Better Cotton Grows Market Share

COPENHAGEN — By MAHLIA S. LONE On the sidelines of Copenhagen LAHORE, Pakistan — Better Fashion Week, the Cotton is on target toward be- Danish Fashion coming a sustainable main- Institute cohost- stream commodity, with strong ed The Jewellery growth in demand from global Room, an initia- brands and retailers, and sup- tive now in its third ply of licensed Better Cotton edition aimed at from cotton-growing countries. positioning Danish “Collaboration is key in jewelry on the interna- Rings from Ole Lynggaard. achieving our goal of develop- tional fashion map. ing Better Cotton as a sustain- The exhibition, which able mainstream commodity, was held at the Royal Danish benefitting 20 million people Academy of Music on Thursday, in primary cotton production showcased 19 local brands rang- by 2020,” said Lena Staafgard, ing from established labels like business director for the Pandora, Georg Jensen, Shamballa Better Cotton Initiative, based Jewels and Ole Lynggaard, to new- in Geneva. “There is no one A Better Cotton supervisor comers such as Line & Jo and player that can transform an visits a cotton field in Pakistan. Ninna York, all displaying their entire sector. The only way we new collections. will achieve our vision is to The wholesale domestic mar- work toward it together.” Assembly in June in Amsterdam. projections, 900,000 farmers ket for Danish jewelry was flat A necklace from BCI, a multistakeholder Nike president and chief execu- holding 1.3 million hectares in 2013 at an estimated 1 billion Georg Jensen. initiative, has members from tive officer Mark Parker said the in 17 countries will cultivate Danish kroner, or $183.7 million, all steps of the cotton supply company will help BCI with mar- Better Cotton, representing 7 while wholesale total exports were chain and aims to reduce any keting and communication strat- percent of world cotton produc- up 10 percent to an estimated 8.8 negative environmental, so- egies, driving growth for BCI and tion. BCI targets training 5 mil- billion kroner, or $1.62 cial and economic impact of Nike, and bring about meaning- lion farmers producing 30 per- billion, mostly driv- conventional cotton cultiva- ful change. cent of global cotton by 2020. en by heavyweight tion through better manage- In the last year, Cotton Presently, products are not Pandora’s growth, ment practices at the farm Australia, Brazilian ABRAPA labeled Better Cotton because according to the level. Farmers are trained to and Cotton Made in Africa establishing a system of full Danish Jewelry decrease water, pesticide and signed long-term partnership physical traceability through- Association. fertilizer usage, provide a de- agreements with BCI, increas- out the supply chain is costly. All dollar rates are cal- cent working standard, partic- ing Better Cotton supply. In In 2016, however, labeling may culated at average exchange for ularly for women, and eschew 2014, the U.S., Mozambique, start. In addition, contami- the period concerned. A bracelet from Shamballa Jewels. child and bonded labor. Turkey and Tajikistan will nated Better Cotton may be While Pandora represents the Brands and retailers that reap their first Better Cotton substituted with convention- lion’s share of jewelry exports, a “We don’t attract the traditional are members of the initiative harvests, China its third, ally grown but cleaner cotton flurry of up-and-coming brands goldsmiths yet, but fashion and include Ikea, Nike, Adidas, and India and Pakistan their by spinners through the Mass including Maria Black and accessories buyers,” explained Levi Strauss & Co., H&M, Marks fourth harvests. Total ac- Balance Administrative system Figaros Bryllup are making their Charlotte Møbjerg Ansel-Henry, & Spencer, VF Corp., Tommy knowledged transactions of by using claim units to over- way internationally. cofounder of The Jewellery Hilfiger, A|X stores, Wal-Mart, licensed BC lint were more come any shortfall, also known The show drew some 400 visi- Room. “Most of the brands at the Inditex, Eroglu, John Lewis, than 126 million kilograms as forward selling, to be made tors, according to organizers. Jewellery Room appeal to con- Sainsbury’s and Tesco, repre- from Jan. 1, 2013 to May 23, up in four months. At present, cept stores and the bigger depart- senting more than 10 percent of 2014. The highest transactions BCI claims framework stipu- ment stores,” she added. global cotton consumption. of 46 million kilograms were lates how brands and retailers The latter praised the region’s Ikea and Nike were voted to made in Pakistan. communicate to consumers jewelry offer. the BCI Council at the General In 2014, according to BCI their support of BC. “I think Danish jewelry is good at reinterpreting classics and the choice of materials is nice,” said Terrell Tate, creative director and buyer at concept Cotton Leads Amasses 200 Partners store Sprmrkt in Amsterdam, which carries Maria Black. In Australia, a new survey of the water- “Jewelry overall is really good. By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN management practices of 40 irrigators from Pieces from Instead of a handbag, it is a nice Central Queensland to southern New South Pandora. investment, and you can stack THE COTTON LEADS program has attracted Wales in the three cotton-growing seasons of it,” said Laura Larbalestier, buy- more than 200 partners across the global cot- 2006-07, 2008-09 and 2012-13 showed a dramat- ing director at Browns ton textile supply chain since it was launched ic improvement in water-use efficiency across in London, which also in October. the industry. The survey revealed a 40 percent Jewelry from stocks Maria Black. A joint program established by the U.S. and increase in water-use efficiency over the past Maria Black. “Classic Danish silver Australian cotton industries, Cotton Leads ad- 10 years. It also noted that it covered both the with polished surfaces is vocates and demonstrates responsible grow- low-water years from 2006 to 2008 and the high- still the most common ing practices for cotton. Companies signing production season of 2012-13. material used in jew- on to the program include Target Corp. and In a new environmental initiative, Cotton elry,” said Jens Moller, American & Efird in the U.S., Japan’s AEON Inc. said it has perfected a fluorine-free ver- director of the Danish TopValu, Hong Kong’s Fountain Set and sion of its Storm Cotton technology, a textile Jewelry Association. Mexico’s Operadora LOB. finish that adds durable water repellency to “Gold seems to be re- “The first phase of the Cotton Leads program cotton outerwear, in a collaborative project gaining its position, was aimed at raising awareness of the signifi- with Archroma, a Swiss color and specialty however in a new color cant environmental gains already achieved by chemicals company. — rose gold is becoming cotton growers in Australia and the United Over the past decade, Cotton Inc. has intro- increasingly popular.” States, and their commitment to continual im- duced a range of textile technologies that en- “Corals are very in provement,” said Mark Messura, senior vice hance the performance capabilities of cotton trend this season, to- president of global supply chain marketing at in the outdoor and athletic apparel categories. gether with white moon- Cotton Inc., a founding member of the program. These include TransDry moisture-wicking stones,” said designer Messura noted the stringent national and local technology, and the suite of Storm Cotton dura- Charlotte Lynggaard, regulatory environment in both countries, com- ble water-repellent finishes for cotton, denim the creative force be- bined with transparency of these practices and and fleece. They have enabled cotton to be hind Ole Lynggaard, the third-party verification to validate the claims. more competitive in apparel categories histori- jewelry label founded “The robust national infrastructures of both cally dominated by man-made fibers. by her father. countries have facilitated and documented David Earley, senior director of global sup- Møbjerg Ansel-Henry these gains, but more importantly, they enable ply chain marketing at Cotton Inc., explained said the Danish Trade the countrywide implementation of future best that performance finishes such as those that Council is supporting a practices,” added Messura. offer water and stain protection are essential to bid to take the initiative On the topic of best practices, Adam Kay, the outdoor apparel category, and have histori- abroad, starting with chief executive officer of Cotton Australia, cally contained some level of fluorine chemis- London. “We are look- said, “The self-investment by growers into re- tr y. The potential negative side effects of fluo- ing at all major markets, search and development is a key commonality rine and its toxicity have heightened concerns such as London, New in both countries, and one that demonstrates in recent years, causing a range of industries to York, Dubai and Paris.” their commitment to continual improvement.” reduce or eliminate it from their products. 10 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014

Jaime Winstone and Cara Delevingne Beautiful Creatures FOR THOSE FAMILIAR with Lincoln has fashion running in his veins — his Pilcher and Nick Hatsatouris’ restaurant mother Nancy is the former editor of Vogue Moby Dick’s in Montauk, N.Y., their Australia. Though Murphy has posed for new eatery, Moby’s, located in nearby him as a model — he shot her for the cover Amagansett, is very different. Gone are of Vogue Thailand — don’t expect them to the late-night long lines of share-house pose together anytime soon. holders angling to get through the doors “We were asked to, but no, we don’t really and the girls in sky-high heels wobbling shoot together,” she said. “I think there are on top of tables. some things we have to keep sacred.” Carolyn Murphy, Pilcher’s girlfriend, says Murphy is not much of a social animal. that was precisely the point. “That’s where last year I drew the line,” the model said she told Pilcher. “ Yo u need to tell that young lady FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE you don’t need a lawsuit happening because her WWD.com/eye. wedges are four inches too high and her maxidress is going to get caught.”

BENETT DAVE Instead, the new, Wild On refreshingly sedate Moby’s features twinkling lights and PHOTO BY lawn games, like bean-bag CARA DELEVINGNE was looking very Booth, whose film “The Riot Club” toss and badminton, and much the wild English rose as she sat is headed to the Toronto Film Festival attracts a new, refreshingly cross-legged on the grass to watch her in September, was working a low-key sedate crowd that on Saturday pal Will Heard perform an acoustic set look, dressed in jeans, a T-shirt and a night drank rosé among at Wilderness Festival in Oxfordshire, blue Warner Bros. baseball cap. “It’s pockets of fashionable men in England, on Saturday. the only one that really fits my head seemingly similar white pants And she’s clearly ready to ramble: well, although it’s not a bad message and chambray shirts — both She said her oxblood Mulberry bag to be sending out: ‘Please keep hiring Pilcher staples — and women Lincoln Pilcher contained “my phone, eyebrow me,’” he said. in summery cocktail dresses. with Carolyn MITRA ROBERT gel, Berocca [fizzy vitamin Booth said he’s a dab hand This time, they were at a party Murphy in Céline. pills], camera, passport and at festivals. “I’m the one that hosted by Net-a-porter, its PHOTO BY Daim [chocolate] bars.” eye will go from Thursday to sibling men’s site, Mr Porter, Delevingne and Mulberry Monday and not shower at all and Pilcher, recently described as a “bar She rarely goes out when she’s in the cohosted a garden party during — and be OK with that.” Reid, tsar” in a recent issue of the site’s weekly Hamptons, preferring instead to spend the festival, which ran from Booth’s costar in “The Riot newsletter, The Journal. Besides Murphy, time with her daughter and close friends. Thursday to Sunday. Club,” was sporting similar headgear Natalie Massenet, Greg Chait, Rachel Zoe and “I’m really not on the scene,” she said. Guests at the party in the and had clearly tapped into the true husband Rodger Berman, Sean MacPherson “But it’s hard to avoid all of that when my walled garden on Lord and Lady British festival spirit. and wife Rachelle Hruska, Johan Lindeberg and boyfriend has a restaurant that most of Rotherwick’s Cornbury estate included “We did Glastonbury in June and Natalie Joos were there. the fashion crowd wants to come to.” Delevingne’s elder sister Chloe, Jade made a few key learnings.…Mostly, “I think it’s the same people [as Moby She considered this for a second. Parfitt, Douglas Booth, Luke and Harry we’re not doing Winnebagos again. Dick’s],” Pilcher said, his long surfer “I guess if we were to cater to any Treadaway, Jaime Winstone, Holliday They’re too posh. Next year, we’ll get locks immaculately cascading down his crowd that would be it, because we at Grainger, Gemma Chan and Sam Reid. a tepee in the area that overlooks the face. “The change is that it’s a little more least know the sensibility and it is a Gold Mulberry balloons and tall entire festival,” he declared. grown-up. It’s crass but people are saying pleasure to see people,” she said. There grass swayed in the breeze as the sun Inside the festival, there was a we left the ‘Dick’ in Montauk.” was another reason she was out — it bore down on the garden, which had “Mulberry Loves Craft” tent, where Next to each other, Pilcher and Murphy was a bit of a prelude to an important been set with hay bales covered with festivalgoers could meet the brand’s looked ripped from the pages of a glossy milestone of her own, her 40th birthday, tartan or rose Mulberry picnic blankets. craftsmen and make their own magazine — he in his usual rugged which was coming up Monday. Baskets were filled with goodies from monogrammed leather bracelets at ensemble, she ethereal in white. It figures “Should we get shots?” she mused at British chef Giles Clark, and Champagne workshops, which were fully booked. — Murphy is a longtime model and Pilcher, one point to a friend. Bottoms up! was served up in vintage glasses. — JULIA NEEL who has modeled himself once or twice, — CARSON GRIFFITH

Emma Ferrer and Michael Avedon first look is Ralph Lauren fall. “Michael put some music on and “I also love the Tod’s look, The shot is of Ferrer’s profile, he started dancing and Joanna with the beautiful scarf and her swanlike neck spouting [Hillman, stylist director] started almost theatrically big hat. Being out of a sea of gray ostrich dancing,” Ferrer says. To loosen able to use dramatic accessories feathers. In the other version, her up, Avedon played a mix brought a whole different facet her hourglass frame is coated of James Brown, Motown and to the images,” she says. in duchesse techno cotton in a Arcade Fire. “They were being Avedon shot Ferrer in gown from Alber Elbaz’s latest silly and adding levity so I’d be Florence, where she has lived resort collection. A “work of more comfortable,” she says. the past six years after an art” is the term Ferrer used to She calls WWD from such adolescence in Los Angeles. describe the latter look. a romantic-sounding locale, it She’s spent the past two years “Putting that dress on was almost seems fictionalized. “I’m studying fine arts at Florence Fair intimidating,” she says now. “I in the South of Spain. In a small Academy of Art and will really felt like I needed to make town on the sea,” she says. Even continue her training Stateside myself worthy of it, so that was in January when the academy difficult. I was very stiff at the opens an outpost in Jersey City. beginning because I was nervous She’s planning to move to New Lady about getting the perfect shot, York in the next few months. “I’m

BAZAAR OF HARPER’S PHOTO COURTESY thinking everything needed grateful that I grew into a young to be pristine.” If Ferrer felt adult in Europe because now I EMMA FERRER. It’s a name certainly doesn’t hurt either. frozen, it’s not conveyed in the speak three languages. I have a that shouldn’t resonate but “Initially, I wasn’t sure,” photographs. She looks natural, grasp on a quality of life that I the 20-year-old has landed the Ferrer says of being approached. even languid. “Throughout like and I strive for, but I’m ready cover — albeit, the subscriber “Glenda [Bailey, editor in the sitting, Emma enhanced,” to move into a big city like New cover — of Harper’s Bazaar’s chief] contacted my father with Avedon says. “I think at first she York now,” she says. September issue. the idea and explained that was so aware of the camera, The move may also prove Ferrer was plucked from Michael Avedon would be the but we started to flow and she opportune for a second real-deal obscurity (a quick photographer. So understanding discarded that awareness.” One of the fledgling career: modeling, Google search proves it) but that there was this parallel Of course, they would be September a pursuit Bailey hinted that the woman is the progeny of narrative, I was able to approach remiss if they didn’t shoot subscriber BAZAAR FOR HARPER’S MICHAEL AVEDON Ferrer was interested in. a fashion-world deity. She’s it as this very meaningful Ferrer in the quintessential covers. “Oh, well I have lots of plans

Audrey Hepburn’s paternal experience.” Hepburn look: black turtleneck, PHOTO BY for myself. I don’t see myself granddaughter. Her father is The cover comes in two black slacks and black flats, the entirely devoted to a life as Sean Ferrer, Hepburn’s son versions with little variation essence of beatnik immortalized over the phone, Ferrer comes a model. I think it would be from her marriage to actor on the beauty: Her chestnut in “Funny Face.” The shot — across as an exceptionally self- an amazing accompaniment Mel Ferrer. The fact that locks are swooped back cleanly Ferrer’s limbs flailing about — is possessed and gracious young to what it is I want to do. I’m she’s a remarkably poised, with simple makeup that allows printed in the accompanying woman. She speaks daintily interested in being involved in young, beautiful fine arts her enviable, Hepburn-esque inside spread, next to a black- but in a paced and thoughtful the fashion world,” she says, student who’s spent much of brows to take center stage. The and-white shot of Hepburn manner. She doesn’t sound like then pauses for a beat. “But not her upbringing in Florence, fashion, obviously, varies. Her from the movie, similarly posed. a 20-year-old. completely.” — TAYLOR HARRIS WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 12, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Chen, who has been steadily raising that’s why we’re even able to make this Lucky magazine’s profile, and her own, announcement,” she said. MEMO PAD in the past year or so since she was As other Condé Nast publications appointed its editor in chief, will be will be filling up the floors at One juggling her current duties alongside World Trade Center later this year, new ones as a merchandiser. one will not be reserved for The Lucky CONDÉ’S BIG MOVES: The changes keep Berman said the deal was in “I’ve never been a buyer before, but Group. Round confirmed that the new coming at Condé Nast — the publisher development for over a year and it was I’ll be overseeing everything from the company was currently seeking new on Monday revealed a series of only in the past four to five months that buys of a Loeffler Randall shoe to that of retail spaces downtown. reshuffles in its digital arm involving a business plan began to come together. an independent jewelry designer from While Lucky will be spun off, Condé Lucky, Bon Appétit and one of its top “I have a lot of friends at Condé and Brooklyn,” she said. “It’s new for me but Nast is seeing an important future in executives. a year ago they wanted to invest more a year ago I never was an editor in chief food. To become more of an aggressive The biggest change is the formation in e-commerce,” he said. “They asked to either. I’m really excited about it.” player, it will be combining Bon Appétit of The Lucky Group, a joint venture invest in our business and I asked about She insisted the new venture and her and the Web site Epicurious’ digital that will merge Lucky magazine with going deeper. We then looked at their new duties would not affect the integrity advertising platforms. Pamela Drucker the e-commerce platform BeachMint. magazines and saw just how perfect or the editorial nature of Lucky. “It Mann, Bon Appétit’s vice president and All of Lucky’s editorial and business Lucky was in its overlap. It’s a magazine will still have the Lucky voice that our publisher, will oversee a combined teams are expected to join the newly about shopping and we saw eye-to-eye.” readers have come to love,” she said. sales and marketing team following spun-off company upon the close of As for the magazine, Berman said it will Chen, who will now report to Berman, the departure of Epicurious general the deal. Condé Nast’s artistic director still be an integral part of the company. said that Wintour’s advisory role will be manager Carolyn Kremins. Anna Wintour will serve as an adviser to “Print will remain a huge killer and one that is “active.” “I’ve been trying to merge the two the new venture. The Lucky Group will we still see Lucky as an important and “Anna has been an amazing resource since I got here,” said Mann. “I can’t be led by BeachMint’s Josh Berman as viable brand for advertisement,” he said. and cheerleader and adviser to Lucky explain how many times in a meeting chief executive officer; Lucky’s editor in The new independent entity magazine,” she said. “This will be very we’re having two conversations with chief Eva Chen as chief creative officer, will launch in early 2015 with the similar. She’s been so supportive to our this merger and how it would be easier and Gillian Gorman Round, the magazine’s e-commerce complementing Lucky’s mission and will be very involved.” for advertisers. From a marketing general manager, as president. aesthetic and voice. The hope is that Rounding out the team will be Round. perspective, it’s seamless and easy and “This move reflects our belief in consumers will readily shop with the The former Lancôme executive said that makes a lot of sense.” the strength of the Lucky brand, voice new platform, with Lucky providing there would be changes, specifically Mann said that Bon Appétit and and vision under Eva and Gillian’s editorial content, and BeachMint to luckymag.com in early 2015, which Epicurious’ combined audience of 12 leadership,” said Condé Nast president providing commerce operations, will shift to become more advertiser- million will be an easier sell: “It creates Bob Sauerberg. “By adding an e-commerce customer service and technology. friendly. “We’re going to make it into the a food platform where you have scale in component to Lucky, we’re fulfilling Though e-commerce would become most integrated commerce buy that will the digital space while also providing the brand promise — to create the the company’s focus, Berman denied be different from any other platform,” advertisers with compelling content.” ultimate shopping resource and provide reports that Condé Nast was spinning Round said. The two brands will also see a advertisers with the ability to truly off the brand because of reported low With e-commerce as its focus, would slight merging of editorial teams. Bon integrate at every point within the advertising revenues and decreasing print still be around? Appétit editor in chief Adam Rapoport will customer journey.” newsstand sales. According to the “For me, print is essential,” she said. oversee both brands, becoming editorial “The business plan is creating The Alliance for Audited Media, Lucky’s “It is the first person relationship that director, with Epicurious editor in chief Lucky Group to have three pillars of newsstand sales fell 15.8 percent in the one has with a brand. It’s a physical Nilou Motamed reporting to him. business: Lucky magazine continuing to first half to 84,255. touch point.” Finally, Drew Schutte has been named grow with ad revenue and subscription “I disagree completely with that,” he And as for the reports of a dip in executive vice president and publisher — it’s a huge part of the business said. “We’ve been talking to them for ad and single-copy sales over the of Details. Schutte is a Condé Nast — maintaining the existing Beach about a year and looking at properties year, Round said that looking at those veteran who helped spearhead many properties, and possibly merging all into we’ve been impressed with. It was only numbers alone to define a magazine’s of the group’s digital initiatives. No just two mints that will focus on all of Lucky that we saw as a fit — there was profitability was “naïve.” “We are in the successor to Schutte has been named. the women’s products,” said Berman. nothing better.” best financial shape of our lives and — DAVID YI FASHION SCOOPS

MET SIGHTING: Just as the Metropolitan runway show last year. “Everyone else Museum of Art was about to close on was speaking French and he had an Sunday afternoon, Cate Blanchett and Isabelle American accent, so I said ‘Hi. How are Huppert were spotted patiently waiting in you? Can I take a picture with you?’” its lobby. The two actresses are in town for Silver did even more along with SMALL SPACE “The Maids” at Lincoln Center, and were Saudi Arabian Princess Reema Bint Bandar likely at the museum for a private tour Al Saud, who cohosted an afternoon of “Charles James: Beyond Fashion,” the tea on Friday for Al Shaikh to show Costume Institute’s exhibition that ended off her geometrically shaped dresses that day. The museum wouldn’t conﬁrm and separates made from metallic this due to policy. duchesse satin and translucent yarns. On ﬁnal tally, the exhibition, The event drew socialites which opened May 5, was the FOR MORE and designers including Costume Institute’s fourth SCOOPS, SEE most-attended spring show in the past 25 years with 505,307 WWD.com. visitors — better than “Chanel” in 2005 and last year’s “Punk: Chaos to Couture.” — MARC KARIMZADEH

LACMA, GUCCI GET ARTY: The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) fourth- annual Art+Film Gala this year will BIG honor artist Barbara Kruger and filmmaker Quentin Tarantino on Nov. 1. LACMA trustee Cameron Silver Eva Chow and Leonardo DiCaprio, who and Irene Neuwirth continue to champion the museum’s film initiatives, will again cochair the evening. Gucci’s stamp will also be all over Irene Neuwirth, Cristina Ehrlich, Jamie McGurk, BUSINESS the event, as the luxury house has been Amber Sakai, Sutton Stracke and Jennifer Tilly. presenting sponsor since the gala’s “I met Nora a couple of years inception, with creative director Frida ago, and she’s really a rising star in Giannini serving as gala host committee Saudi fashion,” said the princess, chair. The musical performer for the who is the chief executive officer of WWD Marketplace is the premier destination evening remains a surprise for now. Alfa International, a luxury retail — MARCY MEDINA corporation based in Saudi Arabia. “It’s for the industry’s classified and career listings. very important for us to promote young THE U.N. OF FASHION: Being an American Saudi designers, especially women.” in Paris has its privileges. For Cameron Although Decades specializes in vintage Silver, the founder and co-owner of Los styles, the store will sell Al Shaikh’s fall Angeles vintage boutique Decades, it collection through the end of the month. 800.423.3314 means meeting Saudi designer Nora Al “I’ve always thought of Decades as Shaikh and launching her eveningwear the United Nations of Fashion,” Silver collection on the West Coast. said. “An event like this brings all these “He was sitting in front of me in different people together and we learn AL SHAIKH IMAGES FOR NORA CHARLEY GALLAY/GETTY WWD.COM/MARKETPLACE a fur jacket,” Al Shaikh, 24, recalled a lot about each other because fashion

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