The Ultimate GUIDE to Getting Started in 1/43 Scale Part 1 - Closed Cars by Wayne E

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The Ultimate GUIDE to Getting Started in 1/43 Scale Part 1 - Closed Cars by Wayne E Reprinted from Four Small Wheels magazine The ultimate GUIDE to getting Started in 1/43 Scale Part 1 - Closed cars by Wayne E. Moyer Building a 1/43 scale model is really no re-scribe the line. different from building larger scale models Build up as much of the model as from plastic or wooden kits. Some of the possible before putting on the first primer 9 A palette knife, trimmed to a trowel materials - glues and tools - may be a lit- coat. I like to attach spoilers (IF they are 1 The tools required to build resin and shape, is very useful for applying putty. tle different but the techniques are similar to be painted the same color as the body), white-metal kits are the same as those and the same basic procedures are used lower nose sections, and similar pieces required for most types of models and in parts cleanup, preparation, painting, before priming, glue bonds to resin more are neither elaborate or expensive. detailing, and final assembly. strongly than primer. I use a toothpick, Tools and Materials. cut to a chisel edge (PHOTO 8) to apply Resin and white-metal kits are made a drop of “super glue” in small, thin spots in relatively soft (very soft for some resin like the grooves for spoilers. A small drill kits) rubber moulds and so will almost (about #60) should be used to make a always have some mould lines on their “pilot hole” for the screws that attach bodyshells and small pieces, and possibly the baseplate to the body - the “cast in” 10 Small blemishes like these bubble some thin “flash” (casting material that’s holes are never deep enough. The final holes may not be visible until after you’ve been forced out between the mould faces) step in preparation is washing the pieces applied a primer coat. It’s easy to fill them in the window or wheelarch (fender) open- to remove both the mould release agent 2 Both white-metal and resin kits with a drop of primer, but a second ap- ings and around smaller pieces. The tools and oils from your fingers. I first soak the require either epoxy or “super glue” to plication may be necessary after the first bond the parts together - plastic cement needed for 1/43 scale models are really pieces in warm water and dish-washing has dried. will not work. very simple (PHOTO 1). Small, fine-tooth detergent for a half-hour (or more), and modeler’s files in flat, knife, half-round, then scrub them thoroughly with an old and round shapes will be required for toothbrush before rinsing in hot water. metal kits; they will work on resin too, but I That - especially the soak - seems to be prefer to use common “emery boards” (the the key to getting a good clean surface. fine-grit coated cardboard sticks made for Priming, Filling, and Painting. filing fingernails) when working with resin. The principal difference between Wet-or-dry sandpaper (320, 400, and 600 plastic kits and those cast in white-metal or resin is that the latter must be primed. grit) is used to smooth out file and emery 3 Common emery boards make great 11 Large blemishes in the lower body- board marks. A modelling knife (X-Acto You can save time by filling large surface “files” for cleaning up resin kits. Use shell have been filled with putty, while type) will be needed to do rough trimming blemishes like bubble holes with putty sandpaper to smooth the “filed” sur- tiny ones in the upper shell were “filled” or cut parts from their “trees”; and yes, the and at least roughly sanding them smooth faces. by simply sanding the surrounding area blades will cut white-metal! Old blades before the primer coat. An artist’s palette to bare metal. that are too dull for plastic kits are fine for knife (PHOTO 9) is very useful for apply- cutting white-metal. Other necessities in- ing putty. Primer should be sprayed on - I clude tweezers (a couple of styles/sizes), prefer using an airbrush but aerosol cans small scissors, some “holding tools” like will work if used carefully. Be sure that clothespegs or forceps, toothpicks, paint- the primer and paints you select will be brushes, and the usual “miscellaneous” compatible - don’t use an enamel primer modelling tools. if you plan to use lacquer paint!! I prefer a Model cement of the type used on plastic primer meant specifically for models - the 11A There may be a number of surface pigment grains are ground finer, which blemishes visible after the first primer kits will not work on these kits; you’ll need 4 Medium-grit (320) sandpaper will to use either alpha cyanacrylate (ACC, or means that less sanding will be required coat; fill the larger ones with 2-part make short work of thin flash and “ragged putty. “super-glue”) or epoxy (PHOTO 2) to hold to get a good smooth primer surface. I edge” mould lines. major components together and a clear use one of the model car “polishing kits” water-based adhesive like Micro “Kristal with sanding cloths ranging from 2400 grit Kleer” for “windows” and tiny trim pieces. to 12000 grit, but use only 2400 and 3200 Finally, you will need some putty to fill grit on the primer. larger bubble holes or surface blemishes; The first primer coat will often show I recommend a two-part epoxy putty (A + surface blemishes - bubble holes and B in the U. S., Milliput in Europe) because nicks you didn’t see and even file marks lacquer-based auto putties will continue to that weren’t sanded smooth. Small 12 Although this model had no major surface blemishes, almost all the primer shrink for months - epoxies won’t. holes can be filled with a drop or two of coat had to be sanded off to fill smaller thick, partially dried primer (PHOTO 10), 5 Emery boards can be cut with scis- Preparation. ones; note the darker primer remaining while larger ones will need more putty. sors to create the shape you need to get Always examine a kit as soon as you get in many small spots. it to make sure all the parts are there— Very tiny blemishes and file marks can into small openings in castings. neither GPM or the maker may have any be eliminated by simply sanding the spare pieces a year from now so if any surrounding area, leaving primer in the parts are missing, order them at once. blemish (PHOTO 11, top body). Extreme When you’re ready to build it read the cases (rare now, but common with older instructions and be sure you know where kits) may require sanding off most of the everything fits. Remove the mould lines first, or even the second coat of primer from the body (inside and out, if neces- before the surface is completely smooth sary) (PHOTO 3) with emery boards or (PHOTO 12). files, then sand the “filed” areas with #320 There have been several good ar- and #400 sandpaper; yes, white-metal can ticles in FSW magazine on painting, so 6 Even small parts will have flash and 13 A simple spray stand, made from a be effectively sanded! Thicker flash can I’ll just say that a smooth primer surface mould lines (carburetor at left has yet to piece of wood and four pieces of spring- be cut away with a razor knife, while thin and spraying on 5 or 6 thin coats of paint, be worked on) that must be filed or sanded steel “music wire” will let you turn and away. That’s where small modelling files flash and rough edges like those in wheel rather than a single heavy coat, are the twist the model to get paint into all the in several different shapes are needed. arch openings can be simply sanded “secrets” to a good paint job. I use a small nooks and crevices. smooth with sandpaper wrapped around spray stand (PHOTO 13) so I can turn a finger (PHOTO 4). Small openings in and twist the model while painting, and I resin castings can be cleaned up with an sand the surface between coats (PHOTO emery board cut to a point (PHOTO 5), 14) with 3200 and 4000 grit sanding cloth. while one or another of the files will work Decals, too, are a subject best treated on just about any white-metal casting separately. (PHOTO 6). Don’t forget the small mould Here are some hints for painting all lines on wheels, mirrors, seats, and other the details that abound in modern kits. small components. If, in sanding the body, Always bend photo-etched pieces to shape (PHOTO 15) before painting them. 7 There is no Photo 7! you’ve partially filled a panel line, re-scribe 8 Small amounts of “superglue” can A totally “flat black” interior isn’t realistic; it by first making a cut with the sharp edge be applied with a toothpick; sharpen it to 14 Sanding the paint between coats of the knife blade, then pulling the back each a point to apply a dot or to a chisel point will not only get rid of any trapped dust (flat) side of the blade through the cut to continued on the following page to put glue in a narrow slot. flecks, but will give you an even smoother surface. 1 Published by Grand Prix Models as a service to modellers Closed Cars Part 2 - Four Small Wheels magazine Reprinted from Four Small Wheels magazine paint manufacturer’s shade of Flat Black is inside of the wheel silver before fitting the different, so use several.
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