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March 2016 Cover Version 2_Passport Cover Mar 2011 1/21/16 6:11 PM Page 1 TRAVEL • CULTURE • STYLE • ADVENTURE • ROMANCE! PASSPORT GLOBETROTTING SANTA FE INSIDER’S GUIDE ST. BARTH HOTEL THERAPY SANTA MONICA TAIPEI & TAINAN DREAMSCAPE GUANA ISLAND WORLD EATS MAUI EXPLORING GUADALAJARA WHAT’S NEW IN & PUERTO VALLARTA LOS CABOS MARCH 2016 USA $4.95 CANADA $5.95 FUN IN FORT LAUDERDALE! +SWIMWEAR 2016 TAIPEI 2015_Lima APR-08.R5-2 4/8/16 5:19 PM Page 38 TAIPEI & TAINAN These two Taiwanese cities defy labels with an enlightened and invigorated attitude toward everything from design to LGBT life. by Stuart Haggas 38 PASSPORT I MARCH 2016 TAIPEI 2015_Lima APR-08.R5-2 4/8/16 5:19 PM Page 39 MARCH 2016 I PASSPORT 39 TAIPEI 2015_Lima APR-08.R5-2 4/8/16 5:19 PM Page 40 taipei and tainan ot so long ago, the label “Made in Taiwan” inferred mass- al Chinese culture. It features eight canted segments of eight floors each, produced products that were made quickly, sold cheaply, inspired by the Chinese lucky number ‘8,’ which sounds like the Chinese and exported globally—typical fodder for our throwaway word for wealth and prosperity. This segmented design also means that society. Then Taiwan made a seismic shift away from Taipei 101 resembles a stalk of bamboo, a symbol of everlasting strength, cheap, labor-intensive things like toys and textiles, to although some critics have joked that it actually resembles a stack of Chi- Nbecome the world’s biggest manufacturer of notebook computers. nese takeout boxes. A report in 2013 estimated that 89% of the world’s notebooks and 46% Visitors may enjoy panoramic views from indoor and outdoor observa- of desktop PCs were manufactured by Taiwanese companies, with global tion decks on the 88th and 91st floors of Taipei 101. It’s also an impressive brands like Apple, Dell, Hewlett-Packard, and Lenovo utilizing Taiwan’s centrepiece to the city’s New Year’s Eve fireworks display. technological and creative talents. Taiwanese brands such as Acer, ASUS, Nearby is W Taipei, a cosmopolitan five-star hotel with 405 gue- and smartphone manufacturer HTC have also become major players. strooms, popular with gay visitors and locals alike. This towering This change isn’t restricted to hi-tech industries. Taipei, the capital hotspot is literally chained to the ground: guests arriving at street level city, has been named World Design Capital for 2016 by the ICSID will notice gigantic links of chain, a detail added by the architect (International Council of Societies of Industrial Design), a great honor because he feared the hotel was so hot and happening that, if left unre- for Taiwan’s growing design scene. strained, it might take off into space! Amid the gleaming architecture of Taipei’s Xinyi financial district, a his- The tenth-floor swimming pool deck and WET Bar is a hub for daytime toric tobacco factory built in 1937 during the Japanese Imperial Era has Speedo-clad action, so grab a deckchair and a cocktail and enjoy sweeping become the Songshan Cultural and Creative Park, its modernist-style city views. This landscaped oasis becomes super-chilled once the sun has set. warehouses now converted into exhibition spaces, cafés, and design studios. Other happening spots include WOOBAR, a stylish lounge that pulsates to Here, you’ll find the Taiwan Design Museum, whose galleries showcase the club beats with guest DJs at night. Signature cocktails include the Taipei best of Taiwanese and international design, including recipients of the Gold- Mule (Taiwan sorghum liquor, osmanthus flower sugar syrup, and ginger en Pin Design Award, a mark of innovative Taiwanese design that’s been beer) and The Buddha’s Hand (green tea-infused Belvedere vodka, lemoncel- awarded to products including bikes, teapots, and computer disk drives. lo, bergamot purée, lime, and honey), or you may prefer a bottle of 5BEER, As sleek and polished as a HTC One smartphone, Xinyi is dominated crafted exclusively for W Taipei by North Taiwan Brewery. by Taipei 101, a landmark skyscraper that was officially classified as the W boutique showcases signature W products alongside goods by Tai- world’s tallest when completed in 2004, a title it retained until 2010. It nev- wanese designers. These include a stylish and sustainable red jewelry tree ertheless remains the world’s tallest green building, as certified by the US made from recycled ABS, designed by Fanny Kuo as part of a “Trash Re- Green Building Council’s LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmen- design” project by W Taipei and Taiwan Design Center. Among the fash- tal Design) rating system. ion options are party dresses by gay Taiwanese-Canadian designer Jason Much of this skyscraper’s structural design was influenced by tradition- Wu, whose fans include Michelle Obama and RuPaul. W Taipei Pool 40 PASSPORT I MARCH 2016 TAIPEI 2015_Lima APR-08.R5-2 4/8/16 5:19 PM Page 41 taipei and tainan Photo: Number-one. The first gay pride parade in the Chinese-speaking world took place in Taipei in November 2003, and the country’s newly elected first female president, Tsai Ing-Wen, publicly endorsed marriage equality in 2016. s well as being an emerging design champion, Taiwan is also a sig- following in the footsteps of countless gay Taiwanese men who’d meet nificant advocate of LGBT rights in Asia. The first gay pride here in the days before phones got smart. Aparade in the Chinese-speaking world took place in Taipei in Gay Taiwanese life has been portrayed in other mediums. Famous for his November 2003, and the country’s newly elected first female president, Academy Award–winning film Brokeback Mountain, acclaimed Taiwanese- Tsai Ing-Wen, publicly endorsed marriage equality in 2016. born director Ang Lee previously explored the conflicts between gay and Prior to this milestone, LGBT issues were already part of Taiwan’s cul- straight, traditional and modernity, and Eastern and Western, in his 1993 film tural construct. In 1983, prominent writer Pai Hsien-yung wrote his semi- The Wedding Banquet. Taiwanese lesbian drama Spider Lilies won the Teddy nal novel Crystal Boys about a group of young gay men in 1960’s Taipei. It Award for best LGBT film at the 2007 Berlin International Film Festival. follows A-Qing, who, expelled from school and ejected from home follow- And gay Taiwanese artist Lee Mingwei caused controversy worldwide by ing a scandalous relationship with a classmate, finds solace in Taipei New claiming to be the world’s first pregnant man, a claim that turned out to be a Park, a notorious gay cruising area. Here, he befriends other boys also for- work of performance art entitled “Male Pregnancy Project.” saken by their families and, like them, begins a life as a hustler. Taipei’s gay scene is vibrant and welcoming, making it popular with Considered the first gay-themed Chinese novel, it’s been adapted into a LGBT tourists from other Asian places including Japan, Korea, China, and film and a popular TV miniseries in Taiwan, while translations brought the Hong Kong, who come here to enjoy a more open gay society and a greater novel to English, French, and German-speaking readers. According to the choice of venues. Numerous gay options are just moments from Ximen novel’s back sleeve: “In Taiwan, the gay community is known as the buoli- (easy to remember, because it sounds like ‘semen’), a stop on Taipei’s mod- quan, literally ‘glass community,’ while the individuals are called ‘glass ern MRT metro system and gateway to Ximending, one of Taipei’s leading boys’ or ‘crystal boys.’” shopping and entertainment districts. Taiwan’s first European-style urban park, New Park is now known as Here, vast video screens and megawatts of neon transform building 228 Peace Memorial Park. As expected in such a tech-savvy city, gay façades into an electrifying vision, a real-life “Candy Crush Saga” of blink- dating apps like Jack’d and Grindr have made cruising obsolete here, ing pixels and popping graphics, although the Taiwanese teenagers who but when strolling around the parks fountains and sculptures, you’ll be stalk along Hanzhong Street often appear too mesmerized by their own MARCH 2016 I PASSPORT 41 TAIPEI 2015_Lima APR-08.R5-2 4/8/16 5:19 PM Page 42 taipei and tainan smartphones to notice the electric circus around them. Ximending dazzles with a vast array of shops, ranging from afford- able fashion favourite UNIQLO to Wannian Plaza, a mall dedicated to anime and manga. Plus there are restaurants serving a cornucopia of Asian cuisine. aipei is known for its novelty theme restaurants, inspired by any- thing from hospitals to airlines to jailhouses, but here in Ximending Tis the most groundbreaking themed restaurant of them, the Modern Toilet. Diners sit on actual toilets to eat food from miniature toilet bowls, slurping drinks served in miniature urinals. The lavatory-humor décor includes bathtubs, showerheads, and turd-shaped lightshades. The food is fine but flush-away forgettable, but I still recommend you pay a visit, if only to Instagram the signature dish: a soft, poop-like swirl of chocolate ice cream served in a mini squat toilet. Some of Taipei’s theme restaurants are little more than a flash-in-the-pan (a pink Barbie-themed café opened with much fanfare in 2013, but has since closed down), but with the opening of two new branches and international expansion in the pipeline, the Modern Toilet wipes away its competition. More visually appealing is amba Taipei Ximending, a hip four-star design hotel with a wealth of imaginative, eco-friendly details.
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